Best Shed Roofing System Ever! | How to Build a Shed | Part 4

so in our video today we're going to show you how to install your sloped roof now this is not pitched on two sides it's just a single slope it's easy to install easy to trim and you can do it by yourself [Music] so if you've been following along in our video series for how to build a shed this would be a lot easier to understand and if you're just joining this because you're looking for information on a sloped roof I'll just go recap real quick what we've got is a simple box the back wall is shorter than the front wall so what we have is about a foot raised on the front higher than the back so we're gonna build our roof completely out of two by fours now it's about an eight foot structure it's closer to seven and a half but we're gonna build a 10 foot roof so we have an overhang on the front just to help keep all of the door area free from wind and rain and snow and that sort of thing to help extend this life because we are going to put on a barn door it's not gonna seal up as well as you know you would usually have it so with this extension you have the ability to make it bigger than the shed you can do an overhang on one side you can have it hang out the back more you can balance the middle it doesn't really matter because the basic design of this roof is one slope with a finished deck board trim on it you can go with pressure-treated or cedar and the idea is to keep it simple keep it cost-effective but most importantly to keep everything in the shed dry so I've developed the system it's really really really idiot-proof I use it all the time when I'm building my sheds because it nice and quick and you don't have to climb on the actual roof hardly at all in order to get it done so in order to get started we have to finish the process of the sides okay because we have a slope so we're gonna use our 2x4 just as a marker up against our exterior wall board and I'm gonna trace and cut it and then we're gonna be able to install our roof all right here we go no because we're gonna finish off all of our shed with trim boards we're not concerned if the the board isn't quite as high as the 2x4 and so I'm just gonna trace the top of that board get this out of my way I'm gonna keep in mind that because I'm working above my head with a saw my cut line is on zero I'm gonna cut about a quarter inch below that black mark just so that when I'm putting the roof up I'm not pulling the sides off the wall by accident I don't want it too close to lots of room here we're gonna set the depth of our blade so we're not cutting too deep and we're gonna line this up pull the guard forward activate our safety squints and off we go so now we have the slope of our roof all figured out not going to be a concern just to take note when you're building your structure and you're going with a roof like this it's going to carry a little bit of load if you have wintertime so we're actually putting our joists here every 10 at 10 to 12 inches on center okay I think here we'll go with 12 it should be plenty over eight-foot it should pick up enough flow it won't be an issue if you find it a little bit soft all you have to do when you're done does that one more board underneath and screw it to all the joists so that no matter where you step you're transferring the load to the entire structure that's the simple engineering trick we use when we're adding too much weight to a living room or something anyone's getting a grand piano installed we always add a couple of floor joists supports underneath next we add double up the plates on both sides so then any weight is going to come from these joists no matter where they land and it can be transferred through double thick into these studs of course we're on a concrete base here so everything is gonna be good it's way overkill alright but when you can do something overkill simple and cheap you'd do it so the best way to design a roof is that all of the ends of the roof are perpendicular to the ground aesthetically is pleasing it looks really nice but now you're dealing with tricky angles so if you don't have the kind of chop saw and the special equipment to measure and transfer all those angles that's okay I'm going to show you a simple little trick that you can get your angles perfect and all you need is a skill saw what we want to do here is we just want to measure from the ground to the top of our plate on both sides it's 84 the quarter this one is 96 mm we're gonna just write that down on a scrap piece real quick before we forget now we're gonna take that we're gonna do the math on it okay 84 in a corner off of that so that leaves me with a corner and 80 I have twelve and a quarter difference in height I'm gonna take that information and I'm going to show you my trick so I'm gonna just show you real quick some basics of grade 8 math if you can remember all of this you're gonna be awesome if this is square remember put a little square in the corners all right that means this angle is the same as this one now if I go like this and I draw this line which is gonna be my roof okay and I count that as zero since this is square that's zero the distance from here to here my translator here okay I draw that line now this angle is exactly the same as this angle simple right because it's like a parallelogram so what we're gonna do is we're gonna take that difference that we have we measure it out a twelve and a quarter and I'm going to flip this mark here twelve and a quarter sorry that's my spot I'm gonna drive a nail in there all right okay so now I've got my nail there and I'm gonna put and the only reason this works is because we started level remember we've installed our pad level so I can actually put this 2x4 on the corner back there well if it's curved the right way and there's my angle now that that's established my angle I'm going to just trace this on to my wood holding the markers flat against the board okay there's my angle we're done with all this now now what I have to do is I have to cut this so that I can invert it put that angle on my two by fours we're gonna cut this off just by using the guide following this straight line on the saw now remember if you're out an eighth of a degree on this [Music] Mama's gonna see that from my house here we go so now I have my angle I'm gonna take this and flip it over and put it to the top corner of all my two by fours measure mark it and cut it and then I'm gonna have my entire rafter package cut to the exactly the same degree before I put it up that enables me to put my end plate on build the base of the structure with three or four sticks that's something I can carry I can lift it up onto the roof and then I can go back and put all the rest of the rafters in later [Music] alright let's just get a quick recap so we're all on the same page here we've got a 8 foot deep structure by 10 feet long and we're gonna make our roof 10 feet deep and 12 feet long one of the ways we're gonna do that is we're gonna set the structure up the roof we're gonna just do like an outside frame something small and simple that we can lift up into place and then we'll finish off all of the rafter framing once we have the box up there remember because we're going 12 feet we're gonna have an overhang let's say this represents the outside of the structure the last couple feet we want to support it with boards going this way so the weight can be transferred into the outside wall of the building and it'll be cantilevered because this side will be down with the plywood and it'll kind of do the job and if you find that it's not enough you can always add a support post but for what we're gonna do today we're just going to do a quick little cantilever system hopefully that's enough maybe in the winter time I might have to get the old snow break out and pull that clean but not a big deal so what we're gonna do is we're gonna just start marking this off we got our front and our rear so when we're building a roof it's very similar to the wall all right what we have is we have both plates but since it's a roof we'll call them rim joists and we're gonna just take out our tape and we're gonna measure like I said every 12 inches now if you want to go every 16 and you're strong enough that you can lift a 2 by 6 frame up into the roof for those 9 feet in the air you go ahead and knock yourself out but I'm getting old and I like to play a little on the safe side I would rather install a few more rafters later and have a much lighter box putting up into place so we're just gonna mark all the twelves and on my tape I have little black boxes instead of red boxes for the twelves makes my life really simple 9 and there's 10 now 10 is interesting this represents the last rafter that we're going to put in this direction and then after that we're gonna do our overhang ok so this is my box 9 8 so that's them outside of the building this is the left last rafter I'm going to put on I'm gonna build this ladder section and lift it into place later so what I need is I want the establish the outside one that one okay this one on the outside and then put this one skip a couple here so what I'm doing is I'm building a box or six pieces of wood with the intention of lifting this box off transporting it over here and then putting it up on the roof I'm comfortable with six two by fours that's not gonna be too much weight for me if I do the whole thing first it might be a little bit too much than too awkward and I really just don't want to risk an injury so what I'm gonna do okay so let's take this one put this plate down here now we're just gonna tack this together real quick just two screws just like you're framing a wall remember these are angled so just make sure you pay enough attention that all your angles are going in the same direction that'll be really important when it comes time to put the sheathing on she then comes in 8-foot links and so one thing we want to make sure of is that if you change from 16 inch centers to something smaller to get more strength go to 12 so at least the math works when you're putting a roofing system on and you weren't gonna run into any difficulty there this way I can stagger my joints knowing that wherever I start I'm gonna end up in a good situation so just a little for something when you're working like this keep in mind we're going to be putting a sheet of plywood on here so consider the plywood when you're screwing is down use a little block like this can force it flat from the top the rest this overhang will be over the middle of nowhere and that is what you're looking for so my system for this is simple I'll line this all up start my screws and then I'll bring the block over and I'll use a force it down or lift this one up into position so that when they go to install my plywood everything's nice and flush yes so we're going to show you a little secret now if you're stuck doing this on your own yes you can do this on your own installing a roof has never been as easy as this what we're gonna do is now if you can imagine we're having this box frame like a wall and it's taller than the front wall right it's a full 10 feet and this is only an 8 foot and change wall so when we bring this over it's gonna stand here like this now if you can see at the very top which will be difficult in the Sun but our finished board is about a half inch below our top plate so I can actually run stuff up I can push that wall all the way up and then it should be able to lever into position all right this is the system I'm gonna lift this up and then let go and it'll all inside the box now the way I'm gonna do this so that it doesn't just collapse and fall apart because I want to have something that will carry the weight as it collapses so I can then slide it to the back because I'm going to use this 2x4 and I'm gonna set it on my plate we take my drill I'm gonna screw it to the bottom side of this plate temporarily to help carry the load and this is gonna be my second pair of hands so because I'm short I put my screws in first now each screw will carry 80 pounds that's 160 pounds that's more than enough for six two by fours if we do this under control I remember if it's not under control I can't really reach this all that well but now just as a little note I am 510 and a bit a healthy bit I like to call myself 511 but if you're a little short and using this actual dimensions you can't quite reach that or you don't have this long bit by one of these this is awesome this is an extender it's designed for the quick lock system on these bits and on the drills okay pop done now I got myself a two-foot drill bit I could have the mini-me version and screw this is brilliant no I intentionally set these two rafters close together so I could kind of somewhat hold the weight in a convenient location that's pretty much where my roof is gonna go we'll try to get it somewhat in position here all right now I'm looking for a boda got a two inch overhang on that wall I'm going to have my face board as well I'm just trying to create a situation where I'm gonna have aesthetically I want to have two roof just a little bit wider than the pad itself over here I just think it's gonna look good I want to add trim boards I wanna have a little bit of depth there so not quite that much that works nice I like the bow hi there and here I've got a nice distance away from the fence that's good now let's see if this makes any sense she's gonna want to run away on me a little bit we got in the middle which is what this board is this represents my middle we're just gonna slide this up and then just yeah I feel like I'm from letting go it's gonna fall so I'm gonna be a little bit taller here control that drop okay yeah we don't need to have a whole lot of distance in the back just a couple of inches and now that I've got that in place give or take yeah that was time you get real this temporary support they get real hot metal expands it doesn't wanna come off the drill alright now we want to do here just slide this back out of the way now all right really what we want to do is we want to square this off now get it in the position that we really want to have it in there's a couple of different ways to do this but what we're gonna do is we're going to start in the back corner and I'm just gonna put a little block on top of the plate slide it over a little bit get it where I want and then screw it all together from two directions so that one corner is fixed and then we can get moving forward go do this properly we want to block this really tiny eight inches less than 10 anyway now remember our overhang that we're trying to build out here we have the two by fours inch and a half we have a wall board material so we want another half an inch that gives us a be actual inch and a half my trim boards a three-quarter and as long as my trim board is gonna be inside so that my one by six covers over top of it I'm fine with that I wanted to have it a little tight but not too tight so I'm gonna go two inches from the outside wall to the outside of this you can set your depth there which we will remove this plate later this is a temporary block and we're gonna screw one screw from the outside and the other thing is we want to set a depth from this corner okay so let's go with seven inch the way we know we can compute things congestion I'll just write that down okay that is currently seven inches away all right now let's just confirm that we did that somewhat improperly perfect seven inch now our corners fixed whew let's go to the front same to the front now okay so here we are once again we're gonna just set this up so we're gonna set this little block here and the reason I'm using to this is to help keep it square this one now what are the benefits of building everything square from the very beginning is if it's square on the bottom and the corners are tight and it's all screwed together its square at the top so when you're doing your squaring of the roof you don't have to pull it out the square and do the three four five six rule just line up everything to be the same depth off the top of the wall and you know it's gonna be square now to get the whole rest of this Wow square we're gonna do tighten that down first my goodness not sure how that happened remember I wrote down seven inches on the other side that's from here to here and this is gonna go out there that's seven wiggle things around until it's it's perfect I like it there we go so first thing we're gonna do screw down this block Oh double-check that cuz there was some movement yep okay and I'm out of quarter-inch okay now a little a big boy and I know what a quarter-inch looks like so when I do this I'm just gonna live in the block quarter inch and then tie it down again remember one of the reasons why this system works great is because the roof overhangs on all four sides so even if you're a little bit out of square it's not the end of the world it will not affect anything especially visually you got to be at least an inch out of square before you're gonna see that from six feet away let alone from down the street there we go all we're gonna do is tighten this up something temporary okay now my roof isn't going anywhere I love it time to add the rest of the rafters and so I cut a bunch I'm just gonna guesstimate get them all in a position for now okay so right out of the gate did this only took us a couple of minutes and you can see the difference between the roof that we're building here the whole structure that we're building here versus something you buy prefab from the building store remember they're charging you 1500 bucks or more for the same sized space that's not as tall and you can't actually put anything on the walls you have to install shelving everywhere because there's no integrity in those structures lord knows there's a large part of the states that it's too much wind there's no way you didn't even get allowed to install one of those and don't forget that $1500 cost you still have to put some sort of base down I also just do it all yourself get it done do it strong you can even hang a heavy bag in here my god this is gonna be strong alright now remember this roof is just resting on top I have two screws holding it in position three sorry so it's not sliding around that's plenty there's not a whole lot of force on the roof in this situation I remember my goal here is just to make sure that I'm all tacked together every 12 inches so that my sheet goods are gonna have a no problem solid I've already got all my marks made while I was on the ground this goes really quick it's a lot easier if you install all your screws first then you get hold you would nice and level top of this angle beam on the top of the front drive them screws in remember at the end of the day it doesn't really matter how perfect this is we're gonna be putting a plywood sheet good come in an asphalt roof but we're gonna use a 1 by 6 plate to cover all this so that your finished look is gonna be just the 1 by 6 oh you're gonna see which is why this design is so awesome for homeowners anyone can do a DIY and have a little bit of here and there and give or take it doesn't have to be perfect as long as you've got good fasteners and a really nice cover cover all your mistakes of course being a little OCD doesn't hurt the friends all done now we got to do the back so if you can watch me for anything like the time you having a good idea that I'm a visual person so I like to explain things to people who are also learning from visually right so what we're gonna have is a ladder which is exactly like it sounds it's a bunch of boards this way okay this is gonna be framed of both ends and it's gonna come into here alright and come across this way and extend out the other side so I've set this in position real temporarily okay to mimic the same angle is the rest of the rafters I'm gonna put my finger on method marker alright and this gives me a mark of the slope how about I don't 3/4 to one inch below that board and here's the reason why we're going to be having a trim board on the other side what the same size is this so this is a board is a little bit shorter than the ceiling it doesn't matter okay better to have a little extra room than not enough so now that we got that marked we'll get this temporary board out of the way and we'll cut that down so that we are gonna have anything in the way when we go to lift our lottery so one of these days I'm gonna do a video on the list of tools a homeowner has tuned on that list is gonna be one of these bad boys it doesn't necessarily have to be this brand I just happen to own it folks they're about a hundred bucks and this reciprocate er bud goes in and out really easy really easy to use in a lot of situations especially something like this no I could go to the other side I could trace it from the other side and I could use the skills but the reality is when you're on a ladder having a seven inch blade spinning around real fast can be a little dangerous especially it kicks back so this tool here it doesn't kick back if the blade gets stuck the handle just goes in and out and the blade doesn't move it doesn't throw you off a ladder so if you're on a ladder this is the kind of situation it's a little slower it's a lot safer and because it's so versatile something everybody needs in their toolbox the secret to use it it's just press up against the material you're cutting and let the saw blade move instead of the saw balance here Wow thank God for my safety squints all right so the simplest way to build this extension is to build it inside of the 12-foot rim rafters that we have okay we'll call that for the lack of a better phrase so all we have to do is just measure from the top of here which is the short side all right all the way over to the far side on the other end which is the short side now the easiest way to do this is to just trace it out on another board because we have our template for our angle and measure it on the ground all right we're gonna take that length and we're gonna take the width that we have here which should be pretty easy because this was installed at 10 feet yep 47 and a half let me try that one more time you know working alone isn't always the easiest way to do something forty seven and a quarter we're gonna write this down one of the greatest things about building a shed is everywhere you go just like a notebook so just to go over this real quick so you can see this in your brains we have a roof it's 12 feet long on each end all right we've got our rafters that are all cut using the jig that we made and they're all exactly the same angle and cut up until the eight-foot mark of the shed the shed is 10 feet long so we're doing is we're putting one more rafter right here laminate it up to this one plus one at the end flush from the outside of the 12-foot and we're gonna add a bunch of boards cut this way and then we're gonna back frame the slope of the edge of that to help carry the load all right makes sense so what we needed to do is just make two more rafters the same as the rest that's easy we actually cut them a hair shy just to make it easy to stick in and then we're gonna take the total outside dimension which I believe was forty seven and a quarter - this and this rafter which is three inch so we have 47 in the corner - three forty four and a quarter we're going to cut a bunch of 44 in a quarter stick straight and we'll do those 16 inch on center and off we go to the races one two three four five six seven eight nine I need nine pieces we've got two rafters cut exactly the same - a hair make the installation easy we're gonna Center the 16s the reason for that is when we sell their plywood for the roof we're gonna start flush at the top so yeah good point ah our top has a plate so let's do it this way let's measure from the top of the plate and Center our sixteenths all right that way we'll actually have wood on the joint when we install our sheet goods here we go and of course we want to get one of these tape measures with little red squares that highlights the 16s it makes it so much easier it's really quite amazing when you think about it up until this point we built this entire structure with a skill saw a drill and a reciprocate er very cool [Music] so one of the things you need when you're doing this is a second bare hands so if you're installing a loan I'm basically building a track for this to slide into one of the beautiful things about screws is you can always remove them so what I've done is I'm creating this out because my ladder is exactly the inner dimensions of this existing framework so if I put it up on the regular part of the roof because it's framed the opposite direction then I can slide it over drop it on to these brackets slide it in along these brackets right into place and I can do it from up top without the risk of it following on my head this would be fun okay pass the midpoint tada I'm pretty sure I can just slide this into position from inside here pull it down first that's awesome okay so here's a little ladder for both the sliding into position the only thing that's in our way is our temporary block holding everything square so before I move that over here we're going to drive a screw into the top plate from the rafter just to hold everything in position while we temporarily put all those together and be careful they get hot when you pull them out in a quick hurry with a fresh charged drill I'll take save every screw you've ever done the math they're about thirty cents apiece that's not we're throwing in the garbage I watch your fingers nice perfect I don't know if I'm a genius max but you know what red/green used to say if they don't find you're handsome they better find you handy that's the Canadian way it's just a matter of eliminating the plates together whenever you tighten everything together just squares everyone else just brilliant let me get rid of these temporary bucks the next thing we want to do is create a permanent brace here to help transfer the load now that everything is in position and we can assume it's hanging just a little bit lower than it wants to be all right we're gonna go with the 2x4 on the flat to the underside and then we can measure and cut perfectly because we have the template for the angle which is gonna be awesome ly easy and here's what I mean let's just get this first well cut that 78 inches and I'll be right back there we go I have this cut for the length of my myspace on the angle and it's gonna be perfect fit there okay and I don't worry if it's a tight fit here because what I'm gonna do is I'm going to cut measure from here to here cut with that angle and then I'm gonna put the block in place and I'm gonna hammer that block in place a little bit until I know it's taking up some load till it's lifting up the roof a little bit and then I'll know it's perfect but for now we'll just throw a few screws in places we get some measurements obviously you want to have these verticals supports underneath these sticks here to transfer the load so we're gonna call that one ten and a quarter I'm just gonna write this down call it ten two quarter all right and you can see how close they are to these we're gonna go seven and three-quarters five and a quarter and this one isn't gonna count we're just gonna take any block and wedge it in we can we can use all these scraps for this ten and a quarter okay always measure from a factory edge case your measurement was a lousy seven three quarters five in the quarter yes here we go I wrote the word template on it so don't lose it in the wood pile and so what I want is I want to put that angle on that block get those nice and flush so what I'm doing is I'm visually lining up the blade with my mark and the plate with the wood I want to get it relatively close lock it in place okay and then I can spin this around and cut it perfect [Applause] [Music] now we are dealing with load transfer here but not rocket science closest fine in this situation so here's our first 2x4 put it hit I'm just gonna tap this in until it's contact here and there nice and tight there we go supports done there's that one that's pretty darn close alright so just make sure we're nice and flush here now the best thing about load transfer is all you need this fastener to do is hold it in place make sure that you jammed it in there so it's picking up some load as long as it's lifting you're good put a screw on an angle and it'll drive it towards it and actually help pick up the weight it's funny because in the engineering world any any any subflooring system that's within 12 inches of a structural point actually they'll allow another point load wall within 12 inches of another point load wall so if you're off a little bit it doesn't matter I know I'm gonna get commentary that's not perfectly lined up I'm like yeah well it doesn't matter as long as you're within a couple of inches of where the load transfers you're gonna be just fine let's not get our knickers in a knot over details because the simplicity of the system is annoying now you can transfer load even without it being perfect mess and that is why I love the system because anybody can build this so before we put our sheathing on realize that this is the edge of my roof and I'm adding this board flush to the outside of this rim and extend it up so when I slide my sheathing down it's nice and tight and you'll see it'll just come right here and that'll be where it stops and then all I have to do is square it off on the outside corner and I can nail it in place problem-solve one man job now there's an easy way and a hard way to do this the hard way is to walk up while you're carrying it easy way staying in the middle put your plywood on the ladder put a nice wide grip and just lay on the ladder keep your center of gravity nice and low we just stand on our ladder and slide it in there we go okay there we go now Maya roofing system is going to have a perimeter board here it's a five and a half inch board on a two by four and plywood so it'll stick up a little bit above the top and a little bit below the bottom and that'll help this sure everything's nice and weatherproof and all I got to do now is my building is square let's go nice and flush at the outside edge here - maybe it 16 now I'm going to be using these two and a half inch spiral nails 5/8 plywood you're probably fine with a two-inch but there's such a small nail it just doesn't seem to me to have enough girth to it to hold things together in a strong wind so now it's okay to just put a few nails in to get started don't nail right near the tongue because the next piece of plywood will fit over top of this joint and it doesn't always fit perfectly so if your nail too close to the edge and make it very difficult to Snug that together so start about a foot and a half away just get a few nails in and then we're gonna be in good shape I think it's always a great idea take a moment mark the middle of your stud why not now we know we did 12 inch on center but having a couple of marks here will make it easier once they get up on the top okay so you can see that because we made everything a 12 inch on center this actually finishes in the middle of one of my stringers which is awesome so now all we have to do is measure to cut from the outside to the plywood now in a perfect world that would be exactly 48 if we've measured this correctly 48 perfect okay so a great system for cutting plywood is just measure out your mark use your black marker drywall square if you haven't got one of these 20 bucks if you're gonna renovate or be a DIY or this is good for any kind of sheet good to make your life easy so the best way to do this just set it up on a big plywood on a 2x4 here and then your sit on this side and put your cut line on the opposite side sticking up in the air set the depth of your blade so it's not too deep now you're not cutting through the dirt money in the back okay so it's cut I cut this side this is my factory edge you always want to make sure you measure and cut factory edge will be touching factory edge this just helps with the installation and the way you get this up there is like the caber toss there you go now this one's also four feet which means it can start my next row now I can go up there and get working before you get started make sure you nail down on the other side of the seat so you keep it all nice and square and that's it questionable in the nail every 12 to 16 inches just gonna use my marker real quick and measure off we're all these twelve inches are I know because of that there's wood here yep we're gonna start the next row with the cut off from that part of the sheet of course it's four feet so it should end up pretty much in the middle of this let's get that in the position here on this side see how we're doing looks like we're running a little bit long this is a perfect example we're dealing with wood so this wood is gonna be moving around right well see that flexible buddy it may not line up where you wanted to right out of the gate but here's a way to make that fit I set this up I'm gonna push this board over there we go no that's where I want it to be yeah one of the advantages or disadvantages that we're working with here is that this product has been out in the rain Perl I'm in almost two weeks Maxie I mean I had my bee sting you got your head your dog attack we've had rain rain rain okay just want to lift that nail a little bit so we can slide this in a little easier okay I've got this corner in there nice that's where I want it Neal that in position then I can fight with this side so not to be perfect I think it's probably close this is gonna get a the reason this is a great DIY project is because this design doesn't require perfection just requires you to get close the goal of the roof is keep the water off of everything inside the shed so as long as you use that as your guiding principle you'll be fine if your angles are up a little bit here and there the other way you can do this which costs you a lot more materials you can overhang your plywood and then snap a chalk line and then cut it off after you've installed it that's one way to do it as well but in this design it's already going to take us five sheets of plywood to complete so I didn't want to have to go in by seven that just seems like a whole lot of wasted money what if you wanted to have that flexibility make sure everything is exactly perfect then that's fine you know what it's gonna cost you swollen tongue and groove marks they're just not always gonna work out for you and that is not a big concern this roof is just as strong whether these joints are fit really tight or not because they're 12 inch on center so don't let it get too much of a concern for you the biggest concern here is getting enough fasteners to hold it all in place if you find that you don't have enough meat in the 2x4 on the joint or it's just a little off-center feel free to take another piece come in from underneath nail them all together and then nail the top down that's another great way to make sure that everything's got lots of contact and it's structurally sound poof so like I said there are two ways to do your sheathing I mean we can always measure here and we can add a few inches you can stall the piece and then chalk line and cut it off something about me sitting on that overhang cutting plywood is not that exciting to me my my building ends here alright so when I'm working up here I want to be kneeling on my building and just leaning forward and not putting too much on this I don't make crawling out there with a Skilsaw and I don't want to do it off a ladder so I'm gonna measure instead from the beginning so I've got 27 inches to the middle of the tongue and that's 27 inches it's a little bit too much so we're gonna cut it 26 and 7/8 I'm going to write that down before I forget all right and I'm gonna check the other side and get that measurement as well we'll start with a full sheet so what we don't have a seam here meeting another seam I'd like to square more than a chalk line when I'm working alone it's just a hell of a lot easier operating [Music] [Music] so I know that this is not a traditional installation of a roofing system I know a lot of guys they just use a 16 inch span they're using little roofing clips on the sides I like to install this this way because it's a lot like a subfloor system and I think the average homeowner be able to capable of doing that without any difficulty and without risking life and limb up on a roof so this works really well as long as you're on plywood you know you're not going to fall through the roof so if you have any comments about the roofing system we used except the deck up but I always throw them in they're happy to have a discussion and if you've got an easier system that people can use then let us know we are all about getting smarter on this channel so I'm still learning and I'd be happy to share your tips and tricks and help everybody grow okay so now we're on the roof ready to put our roofing system in which is incredibly simple because we'll only have one slope and when you're dealing with a shed the goal is to keep the water out of the structure so when we have an overhang on all four sides we don't have to worry about if the edge of the roof is sealed up really incredibly watertight now it's nice to have it tight so that you don't have water in there and it freezes and pulls things apart but the reality of it is if it's not a waterproof roof on the edges you're fine as long as the main body of this roof to flex all the water off the back side so remember your water your roof system is not a waterproofing system it's a water deflection system it diverts water from one place to another that's all it does so in freezing environments water always finds a way to move around and a little bit of moisture in a shed is never gonna cause you any major issues so in my building store these flashes come pre bent and available in 10-foot lengths which means that a little bit short for the roof so I've got two pieces then I cut one down to the bow three feet and it started at the other edge and now I'm going to go click here keep everything snug up against the edge okay oh now that that's done it's time to put down remembering so the system here is relatively simple we're gonna just slide it over to the edge and visually we're looking for about enough that can go over the edge and then just pass the the 2x4 that's there so feel free to be a little liberal this stuff comes in the rule the rule that you buy is gonna do probably two sheds this size so don't be too concerned about if you're gonna have enough material just roll it back on yourself so you have this overhang that's the edge had six inches and then cut this is just an asphalt membrane there you go that's one and we're gonna cut and measure these a few times get them all cut in advance and then it'll make your roof a lot safer to work on once you have your membrane cut just uh roll it up well let's walk it around on this so you do while it has the plastic the better there's always a chance to get slip you don't end up at the bottom of the ground so the water diversion system is gonna work simple these are like massive rolled up shingles okay they don't have the longest lifespan so if you wanted to last a really long time you could always cover this up with shingles or go with two layers of this membrane or just come back every five to ten years and see how it's doing remember since this is a shed and there's no heat source inside this building you're not causing a lot of trauma to this material especially if you're not up you're walking out on a regular basis so just keep an eye on you know occasionally check to see how things are working out and if you have to go and do any touch-up sometimes the best thing to do is just put another layer of this membrane down right over top of the old one and just cut it to fit but you'll see this plastic here it's set up it's like at our back it's very sticky so you want the membrane to finish over the second Ridge okay it's kind of like a guide for you it's what we're gonna do is we're gonna slide our membrane into place so that we see about an inch of our metal exposed okay and then we're gonna go like this we're gonna fold it back in place so that we can expose this whole plastic be sure to be standing on the membrane while you're doing this okay so that nothing is sliding away and then slowly pull that back into place all the way along okay it's a self-adhesive so you just step it into place and that'll bond to the metal and a warm summer day like this in about five seconds to finish now we're going to fold this side back okay and do the same thing no just gonna poke it like this get the membrane stretched out alright and then you can just use it for the slide up into place here we go simple shed roofing 101 so one of the reasons this membrane works so well is it soft and pliable in the heat so we obviously can't continue until we move our ladder so we're gonna do is since we're gonna finish this roof with the pressure of treatise 1 by 6 anyway we're gonna just fold this over for ladder protection and demonstrate that's what the finished roof would look like when we're all done put it in place now we can get up and down without damaging our roof alright next roll same thing we're going to overlap like a shingle we're gonna use that 2 inches as our guide and ok 4 inches on the edge again and we just roll it out do the same thing again let's get it in position and then we'll fold it back take out the plastic just like the last time so sticky nice and gentle when you're pulling this off try to stay close to the ground it look like that you'll pull the whole thing with you you might cause it to get caught and stick together keep my son low he can go a lot faster this way again if the edge stand on your membrane and roll it into place and then just seal the toe to make a good seal that's it it's like Riverdance so when we're done really what you want to do is just fold down your sides and use a piece of 2x4 Florida just tap it on okay and then curl over your edges this is kind of like ironing your roof on it's kind of funny once you've got this installed take your block and install it past the corner nice and snug one screws fine and that's just so that when you're working alone you've got something to butt up against when you put your trim board on regardless of whether you're going to have your roof where it's just a clean drop at the end or a gutter system you want to make this board longer than what you need because going too short will be ugly to look at so we're gonna just measure the full length we're gonna call it 1:26 that's a nice healthy extension past the corner and if you remember from earlier in the series we have the template this is the same angle that we're going to use at both ends of this board so we're going to take our template and we're gonna mark our angle and then I'm gonna just finish that trace in that line and then cutting it that way now when you put the front face on it's a little off-center right so if you want to you can always sand down the corner a little bit but seeing as how it's way up there in the sky I don't think anybody's gonna notice I don't think it's an issue so what we're gonna do now is to take a couple of scrap pieces of wood attach it to the top of our board so it'll sit flush on the roof and then when we go to screw this in place but let's just lift it up by about a quarter inch or so and then I'll give us a nice overhang underneath to the bottom of the roof and make it real easy to finish it all off here we go oh that's not acceptable I got a little bit of wood showing over here so we're gonna be trimming this roofing off anyway so I'm gonna take a good piece of this leftover and I earn that plea piece right there okay back to putting our finished piece on there we go that represents the height of my roof it's nice and flush on the top and then drive it nice and tight that's good that's better so here's our fascia metal and we're gonna use this to close up underneath our drip edge and of course the exposed part of the wood is two and a half inches so we're gonna measure from here you can see the profile that'll be in contact with the bottom of our 2 by 4 Ridge plate and two and a half inches runs to the inside of this groove and that's where the metal overhang is and I know the metal overhang has got lots of room for us to slide up underneath it so we're gonna actually cut about an extra half an is longer alright and aluminum metal work it when your knife opens is actually pretty easy yeah roofing gunk all over my balloon here there we go so I'm eyeballing this because it's a rough cut that's getting installed underneath that's finished trim now you might think this is crazy free handing this but with a sharp blade you can actually take this decent amount of pressure and run a pretty straight line you know of course this part is sharp so if you slip you will slice your hand open so you might want to wear gloves here we go that's pretty easy you can actually see on the camera where the cut line is did you see the line okay put the 2x4 there secreting your own little mini bender okay for the neighborhood of your cut all right this is DIY metal bending alright once you got that bad boy started finish off without much difficulty and all that it's just off of a score of a knife all right it's already starting to look a little ridiculous in it here we go once it starts to go it goes real quick generally when you fold it over it'll just snap the metal right there hear all that crunching around now we got to just open it up the other way and that's metalworking 101 for installing this you could use roofing nails screw a date keep the doctor away they do sell soffit screws however these are tiny little set screws with the same kind of black head I'm a big fan of the screw just feel like it finishes things off a little bit cleaner from a distance you know the galvanized nail I can show a little ugly and these screws every couple feet is fine now you've got a completed water diversion system right we can go through this again but water lands on the high side of the roof and follows gravity which is the path of least resistance come to this drip edge and if there's a lot of water it might run past the drip edge and there's a second edge here and then you've got the wood protected here my god what else do you want and lift now we're gonna be finishing off the shed with a trim board here okay you may want to do something different in your shed and bring the roof back a little bit I like the overhang I just personally like the idea of making sure water stays away from my framing if you make it too close you might want to make your whole shout out of pressure treated lumber because you're gonna get a little water getting in there on the driving rain when it's windy this works really well we can also install Bettis often medicine material here after the fact if you really wanted to but I mean for a shed this is built better than a lot of homes well thanks for joining us under video today teaching how to do my simple roof system make sure you check out all the other videos related to this shed build they were very valuable you can build it yourself from scratch and save a ton of money compared to the cheap flimsy plastic wrap to some of the box stores this is the way to go also I want to make sure that you check us out on Instagram having a lot of fun with that hopefully you're an instagramer and if you are then check us out home run a vision DIY on Instagram and be sure to ask us your questions if you have come answer questions or concerns related to sheds or not I answer those questions every day we're here to help so feel free to jump into the conversation I look forward to seeing you in the comments section below see you later [Music]

Channel: Home RenoVision DIY

Views: 2,816,184

Rating: 4.8004508 out of 5

Keywords: how to build a shed, build a shed, shed roof framing, home renovision diy how to build a shed, home renovision shed, how to build a shed roof, simple shed roof, simple shed roof design, easy build shed, sloped roof shed, build a roof on a shed, build a shed roof, how to build a shed roof step by step, how to build a shed roof house, how to build a small shed house, shed roof framing ideas, shed roof framing design, build a garden shed - roof framing, diy shed roof framing

Id: b3JgPX5fVUo

Length: 64min 44sec (3884 seconds)

Published: Sat Sep 15 2018