BUILDING A LEAN TO SHED // START TO FINISH (Part 1 of 2)

why hello there brent here with bring your own tools on today's episode we're building a shed at least halfway through if you want to learn how to do it keep on watching let's start [Music] we have a lot to get to on this project so we're going to get right to it and the first thing about any project in any structure is to start with a good base therefore we're going to be pouring a concrete slab in order to have a perfect stable base for our shed once we have the ground level out or at least as level as we possibly can get it we can proceed to measuring out our formwork framing for our concrete our backyard is really dictating the size of the shed that we can actually make so based upon our area we are making a shed that's approximately 10 feet long by six and a half feet wide the ground that we have is extremely rooty due to the copious amounts of trees that we have in this backyard so we're actually beefing up the front lip of the slab with a two by six but the remaining forms are two by fours after i have all boards attached to each other i grab some wood stakes and hammer them in one corner specifically once i have those stakes positioned properly i then drill the formwork into those stakes securing that one corner and proceed to making sure that this entire framework is fully square and level the tried and true method when ensuring proper alignment is to just take a tape measure from one corner to the other and making sure that measurement is the exact same as the cross-dimensional measurement i'll go into more detail with this later once you finalize the slab positioning i can then proceed to staking all other corners and making sure that every single side is level as you can see they all are so i proceed to securing all the other stakes in each individual corner and then continue to some weed barrier now i'm certainly not worried about any of these weeds or roots coming through the concrete slab however a barrier is really nice because i'm actually applying some crushed rock on top of this surface and there's a nice differentiation between the soil and our crushed rock this specific mixture is called 5 8 crushed minus and it's a perfect rock to use underneath a concrete slab because one it's very easily compactable and two it can still drain easily so any moisture that hits the concrete surface will easily be able to drain through you do want to wet the rock before applying your concrete because if you don't it may tend to dry out the bottom of your concrete making the concrete more prone to breakage or weakening down the road i do decide to apply a bit of rebar around the perimeter of the concrete this really doesn't need to be done for a slab this size however a little bit of extra strength always is a safe parameter in my book but guess what now that we have our framework fully ready to go it's now time for concrete so let's pick up some concrete [Music] so this is what you call a u-cart concrete mix it's a very large vat of concrete that's pre-mixed so you don't have to and if you did you'd have to mix up this many bags quite a few bags it would take a lot of time to do so you can't find these everywhere but if you can i highly recommend doing so let's start pouring the amazing thing about this little system is the fact that it's all connected to a hydraulic lift which makes it extremely easy to lift just know that it might get a little messy it's surprising how much this little guy can actually hold this thing has over a yard of concrete so we're able to do this as well as my yard trash screen that i posted a couple weeks ago if you don't have a lot of experience with concrete don't feel intimidated by this step it's very easy as well as the fact that you use very simplistic easy tools to work with like a screed which is just a 2x4 but sometimes the simple tools are the best tools to use just keep in mind when you are pouring to try and lift that rebar up off the ground i did prop up the rebar with a couple larger rocks but you do want to make sure and go back to it to ensure that it's just not resting on that rock versus in the center of your concrete pour i would suggest having a small screed that can get around the corners as well as a larger screw that you can actually prop against both sides of the form and therefore you can just go back and forth across the formwork to have a perfectly smooth surface or at least as smooth as you're gonna get with a two by four as a side note i would highly suggest making some type of makeshift ramp which allows you to avoid applying too much pressure to your concrete formwork you want to make sure that that is stable and stays stable through this entire process and having a nice protective ramp is key especially if you want to keep this thing as level as possible once all the concrete is poured and screwed you can then proceed to your magnesium bowl float now this is obviously a very large magnesium bowl float but it's perfect for a nice cohesive pass across this concrete slab it brings up moisture and sand at the top of the surface which really fills in all of those small little holes and crevices within your concrete before you apply your finished trowel now we didn't actually apply a finishing trowel to the surface just because it's a shed we don't need to worry about how beautiful and pretty it is but a nice cohesive bowl float across this entire service does wonders when it comes to having a nice cohesive smooth surface in the end oh and remember you don't have to buy this thing you could rent it for 10 to 15 bucks a day at most tool rental shops keep that in mind and remember when pouring a concrete slab be prepared for doing something with the excess concrete if you expect to have some we did so we made a ramp as for removing the formwork you can generally remove the formwork within 24 hours however on this project we did have some extra time so i just let sit here for over a week removing the concrete forms is straightforward and easy and after you have them all removed you can proceed to doing some layout i personally am a very visual learner so i do love actually going through the entire slab area and dictating exactly where my stud placements are going to be based upon where windows are where doors are and where the corners of our shed are there are a number of things to think about when framing out a shed properly and i'll go over plenty of them in this video first things first keep in mind that these studs need to be 16 inches on center so if you have your tape measure those little red marks at 16 32 48 and so forth actually means something yes that actually means that that's where your general stud placement is going to be and working directly off of the slab really helps me personally because i can figure out exactly where each stud needs to be placed and it's going to be an easy way to transfer those measurements onto our lumber and speaking of lumber let's get to cutting in the pacific northwest you're generally going to find dug for two by fours but for the base cap of our walls we're actually going to be using pressure treated lumber because if there's any chance of moisture getting to the studs themselves the one area that it's going to be prone to is going to be at the very bottom and that's why we're using pressure treated lumber which will resist rot a lot better than your standard two by force i cut both the top and bottom caps the same exact length and proceed to laying out those stud placements that i previously made on the slab once that is taken care of i then cut down all my studs for that specific wall down to eight feet long and make sure that they're all set up at the same exact length i actually set up a stop block which made life a little bit easier since i was able to measure once and then cut all of them the same exact length once we have our studs lined up we can proceed to nailing and four nailing is one of my favorite tools the framing nailer this thing is heavy duty has a kick but is so satisfying to use but just keep in mind you want to make sure you're extra careful with these guys because those nails can shoot out very quickly so protect and make sure you're thinking about where your hands are when nailing as well as eye protection i'm actually thinking about having someone drop some plans for this specific build out so if you are personally interested in seeing some plans for this amazing shed please let me know in the comment section because i am interested in seeing how many people out there actually want to build this style of ship we wanted to make sure there was some type of daylight in this shed so therefore we're actually going to be installing a window on the east side of the shed and for windows and doors you do want to account for a double stud layout which basically constitutes you having a trim stud as well as a king stud on the far side that way with any type of header you have overhead it is properly supported with two studs on both sides the header material that i'm using for this project is just some leftover 4x6 lumber that is not the prettiest lumber since i've had it lying around for a while but it is very structurally sound and that's the most important thing once the header's in i can nail off the top cap and lean up our very first wall i position the bottom plate where it needs to be tack it in place with a couple supporting studs and proceed to our second wall the large factor to keep in mind on this specific project is that this is a lean to shed style it's not your normal gable or a-frame style where the tallest point in your roof is at the very center our tallest point on this shed is the first wall that we installed and the second wall is gonna be our shortest point the main difference between the first wall and the second wall that we just fabricated is that the first wall had eight foot tall studs and the second wall only has six and a half foot studs keep that in mind as for the front and back walls these are also six and a half foot tall studs and you'll see why we do this in the very near future it's mainly because we want to co-mingle these walls together with a top cap that connects all three once the back wall is in position i level up both walls and just insert a couple nails to give this structure a bit of rigidity so we don't have to worry about this thing toppling over i leave approximately 32 inches of space for the doorway and proceed to fabricating a couple panels for the front entryway and then fasten down the top cap just a little bit easier for this stretch at this point we fastened down a second top plate which is actually called a double top plate this connects all three panels together and adds quite a bit of rigidity for this structure at this point okay so we have all four walls fully laid out and installed now the one thing you have to keep in mind especially the most key part of keeping in mind is square so we're gonna run our tape measure over to this corner the far corner and we're going to measure 1 42 and approximately a half inch we take the measurement from that corner and bring it all the way over here that's 142 and a half that means our structure is square sound and ready to install our top cap that actually connects this entire system like so [Music] don't be worried if it's not exactly perfect like this your very first time trust me this is the beauty of video editing and it wasn't that's why we have that pipe clamp in the corner just to suck it in a bit before we nail it in place once we have the double top plate fully fastened on the short side we installed one on the tall side and at this point we are now ready for our roof rafters these are two by sixes that are eight feet long and once i like the positioning i mark where it intersects with our double top plate and proceed to our bird's mouth cuts now if you've never heard of a bird's mouth cut in simplistic terms it just allows your roof rafters to lay flush with your double top plates now this is where your speed square really comes in handy so much so that in some areas in some cases this is actually called your rafter square you lay your square flat against the rafter and you use the pivot point right there to determine the angle in which you need for your bird's mouth then you can grab your carpenter square and determine the other angle by running one side of your carpenter square against the line you just drew and pivot that where your other end point needs to be this section is going to be a section where you're going to be cutting out which is why i leave a mark there and remember you can also use this angle for the ends of your rafter if you want those ends to lay flush or 90 degrees when you have everything fully installed we'll discuss that more detail momentarily now if you're not a big fan of math and you don't quite understand how to get that angle i'll leave a link in the description box below on a calculator that's very easy all you have to do is determine the actual rise versus run so figure out how far the span is and determine the height difference between the two sides in our case we have a 78 inch wide run versus an 18 inch tall rise that gives us a 13 degree angle which is the exact dimension that i set my chop saw at as well as the angle that i marked with my carpenter square when i originally drew this bird's mouth i carefully used my circular saw as well as my jigsaw to cut out all these bird's mouths evenly in every single roof rafter but first before you cut all these angles i would highly suggest testing out your very first one to make sure it fits securely and properly oh yeah baby it's like we know what we're doing around here this is exactly what you want to see with this bird mouth because it's actually laying flush and flat against your double top plate which evenly distributes the weight on your top plate as well as just provides more stability and strength for these rafters now that we know that all these measurements are good to go we can then trace this exact dimension on all of our other rafters which makes for determining the exact dimensions on all them easy just it might take a bit of time to cut all of these out keep that in mind once we have them all cut up and ready to go i distribute them evenly on top of our structure and grab my header for the doorway now i wasn't quite sure how i was going to co-mingle this entire system together because we have very little space above our doorway to the above rafter but no matter what you still want to provide some type of structurally sound header above your doorway because of the sizeable span that your door opening creates roof rafter layout is quite simple because we're mainly utilizing the spacing for the studs that we've already determined one of my favorite brackets to use in this type of situation is these galvanized hurricane ties now this area certainly is not going to get much wind but this really adds a lot of strength and stability as well as ease for installation and securing all of these rafters in place simply cleanly and evenly however on the ends just keep in mind that you don't use the same type of bracket that you do in the middle sections one of my all-time favorite tools to use with this application is a palm nailer because you can really get into some tight-knit spaces easily with a palm nailer and all i'm doing is nailing inch and a half long nails into the brackets where it's indicated at this point we don't have any type of overhang on the front and back sides of our shed therefore we need to install a sub fascia board now this not only provides a lot of structural strength and stability for all of the rafters that are actually on the shed but it also provides a much needed nice overhang for the front and the back of the shed i nail the sub fascia board in place with all the rafters and proceed to the top section as well same exact thing same exact spacing okay the two end boards 12 footers are in and it looks great because what we did here is i nailed all of these plates in place but i didn't nail the top section to the roof rafters or joists whatever you want to call them so i'm going to nail those in now but the reason why i didn't was because now every single board is in its perfect alignment and now we're ready to nail doing it this way really lines up all of our roof rafters evenly and consistently all the way down and then it's just the process of hammering in a few more nails into every single roof rafter once we have all of our hurricane ties fully installed then we can proceed to some bracing above the doorway as well as the back of the shed now there's a few ways of going about doing this but just know that the main angle that you're going to be using is the same exact angle that you already figured out 13 degrees therefore you have the perfect alignment for the top of your rafters and then the bottom of the bracing is just a straight 90. on a normal doorway structure you would be able to run a king stud pass the header up into the top cap but in this situation we were not able to however i still wanted to provide some structural stability and strength at the doorway so i did double up those studs on both sides on the back of the shed because we didn't have a header to worry about i was able to run a horizontal beam across the end of the roof rafter and therefore bracing on that side was very easy after i had all my wall bracing installed i grabbed a couple more two by sixes and installed roof rafters on the ends of the shed now remember this is the same exact size of all the other roof rafters just remember don't try and cut out any of your bird mouse on this section at this point we have the vast majority of the framing taken care of and because of all of our due diligence with the framing itself the structure itself is very level now it's time to anchor this bad boy to the concrete i grabbed my hammer drill with a half inch hammer drill bit and proceed to drilling through the base plate as well as the concrete itself then i insert our wedge anchor and hammer it in place now these wedge anchors are very handy and extremely strong when it comes to fastening things to concrete after you hammer the wedge anchor in place you can then grab your ratchet and tighten down the nut as much as humanly possible i do the same exact process to every other bay within the structure as well as the corners in each corner of the shed but guess what after we have that taken care of we are done at least for part one i do a lot of different types of projects on this channel but for some reason framing is something that's just so satisfying to me building something that's a true structure and an honesty could be a livable space is very enticing to me personally and rewarding as well i can't wait to show you guys part two of this amazing build so make sure you tune in next week for that as always i will leave a full list of materials and tools in the description of this video and personally i must say this is truly one beautiful sexy beast even if it's not finished maybe i should just pay attention of what's behind me when i'm flying my drone seriously it's a veritable force in my parents backyard see you next week

Channel: BYOT

Views: 1,295,471

Rating: 4.8869486 out of 5

Keywords: byotools, diy, do it yourself, how to, bring your own tools, tutorial, start to finish, byot, building a shed, building a lean to shed, how to build a shed, shed, lean to shed, how to build a lean to shed, diy shed, build a shed, building a shed from scratch, shed build, shed build diy, home renovation shed, diy shed build

Id: gKKJkQS4l8c

Length: 20min 46sec (1246 seconds)

Published: Sat Jun 05 2021