Framing A Shed | How to Build A Shed | Part 3

hey I'm Jeff from home renovation welcome to our YouTube channel which is designed specifically for the DIY homeowner in mine I teach you how to do things around the house and get professional results today we are tackling framing that's right in this particular case we're building a shed but all the techniques and information we're going to use here is also good for framing basements so stay with us because we're on a concrete pad and it doesn't matter whether you're outdoors or in the hole it's all the same thing [Music] when you're framing on a concrete slab you need two different kinds of wood one is you need regular spruce lumber and the other one is you need pressure-treated okay and the reason you want pressure-treated lumber is because the building code allows for you to use this as your bottom plate in direct contact with concrete so that it won't suck up the moisture through the concrete and into your wall when you build like this you actually have a moisture barrier between your concrete and your spruce so that the mold that's naturally occurring in wood cannot grow this is very important because whether you're outside on a concrete pad like we are or you're framing in your basement it's the same science and if you build like we were gonna show you today you'll be able to frame anything in your house so one of the things we like to do on our channel is show you techniques and tips and tricks that involve basic tools because most homeowners or do yourselfers don't have an array of tools to work with so for instance and a lot of framing videos you'll see people working with the automatic nailing guns and those are great and if you got one by all means help yourself it'll speed things up a little bit but the reality is they're running around four hundred dollars and if you don't have a good compressor or you don't have an extra four hundred dollars to put into the cost of building just a shed you don't want to go and buy one of those things so we're gonna show you two techniques basic drill and screws and we're also going to show you how to use a hammer nails I know it's a little old school but the fact is is it's about the same speed so whatever you're more comfortable using we're gonna show you how to do both but before we get started let's just think you want to have the design of your shed now typically I've seen all kinds of sheds are built like barns all the walls are the same size they have gable ends and they've got a peaked roof like this but the reality is that's a lot of work to build a shed with that kind of roof design so what we're gonna do is a little bit different so I'm gonna give you an idea what's going to happen let's say from this post to this post is the side of our shed and this is about an 8 foot tall we're gonna build it with the wall on the back side of the shed at 7 feet and the wall at the front at 8 feet so we have a slope that I don't facilitate our removing of the water to the back side of the shed but it also makes it really easy to build and you only have to build one slope for the roof this is why I'm going to show you this technique today because building a shed doesn't have to be a work of art it has to be functional and the first rule of design is make sure it functions there's no need to make all kinds of extra work and all kinds of extra design elements and building a shed with two different slope on the roof so by doing one slope we can actually save a lot of money because we don't have gable ends that we have to use extra materials and throw in the garbage and that'll save you time and money and it'll give you a great look so we're gonna finish this off with a nice little pressure-treated one by five running around the edge of the roof you weren't gonna see any roofing it's gonna be sleek it's gonna be sexy it's gonna function it's gonna be cheap it's gonna be quick stay with us so we've just cut our boards we've got our layout here we've got two by fours pressure-treated ten-foot long and then these ones we've cut back so that our total exterior is seven feet the reason we're doing that is our design element actually takes into place our roof is are going to extend out to the front edge of this lab we have a couple of posts to pick up the weight and you also have a sitting area out front as well and I'm sure the dog will appreciate having a nice cool shaded area to sit all day long our elements here are basically simple gonna have a door in the middle gonna have a window in each side and we're gonna have a cheater door back here that swings open you can bring a lawnmower in from the backside the reason we're doing that is because if you can bring the lawnmower in up against an outside wall you're gonna actually save a ton of space having to bring your lawnmower into the main door makes everything dirty all the time and it keeps you from having a clean shed because you need room for removing it around or you're just always in the way so we're gonna have a little cheat door here it'd be almost like a hidden door with a little side ramp we're gonna build that separately but let's get back to framing we need to layout you need to understand what it is you're gonna build so the way you lay it out is simple basically it's all about visualization for us we don't have a plan we're working off it's all coming out of here so we're gonna go with our 10-foot by our 7-foot that is simple and we are going to just cut our plate put it in place get an idea am I going to be happy with that is that is that big enough is it small enough once you got all those questions done then you're ready to start because this reaming here this plate this is the first step that you need next step you do is you make the same frame for the top of the walls and you just get all those cut and laid out as well so in our effort to try to keep things really simple if you have a skill saw I'm going to show you a way that you can actually cut all your framing lumber and then you don't need to setup a chop saw just take your measurement put your mark on the wood get your little square here or triangle as I call because it kind of looks like a triangle anyway on your saw you're gonna have a line work mark zero where the blade cuts and you want to set that up on your pencil mark and to move the triangle right up to the to the guide right up to the guard and I'm gonna use this squeezing it against the frame to be my cutting guide so I cut straight through the wood that gets you a perfectly square cut nothing ever binds nothing has ever on an angle and everything is always perfect because you're not freehand cutting so that's a great technique and if you don't have a chop saw and you want to build a shed or you want to frame your basement you can use that technique it only takes a couple seconds a cut and honestly it'll save you a few hundred dollars we have the foundation for her building today we have all of our walls top and bottom plate and now it's just a matter of constructing eight individual wall so we'll take our pieces and we'll set them aside for now so we have room to build upon our pad and then lift everything in place as we go now it's very important that when you're framing your wall you know how to mark it up and it's easier because we're using pressure-treated for the bottom and regular lumber for the top otherwise you should mark it bottom and top just so you don't get confused especially if you're going to be putting doors or windows in basically what you do is get them flush at the end you run your tape across it for anybody who doesn't have an understanding of building materials this is where you really need to understand the building technique that we use is so that it accommodates the materials that we're going to be installing to finish so right here is our 48 inches and this is really important because if our lumber is an inch and a half thick and that would represent the full thickness of a piece of wood this is marked to the middle now when we put on our sheet good is four feet long we want to have it finish in the middle of a stud so we can nail it put on the next piece and the hive and nailing surface for that one as well so when you're marking this we're going to go four feet on center so it's every 16 inches on center so all of these are gonna be on red squares okay so you can actually mark the center of all of your sticks top and bottom where all these little red squares are okay and that'll help make sure that things go well now professional framers would frame it this way they'd go like this okay mark three quarters over and then put an X where the wood is I'll actually mark the side of the board now either one of those techniques works fine as long as you have a system that you're using make sure that you can finish with the center of the wood on the red square that is really the whole secret buying a good tape measure that you are able to understand what you're doing without having to do the math as you go along okay and of course the end of every wall gets a stick as well that's what I'm saying and now this is the center mark I'm using two different systems here just to demonstrate if you're marking a Center put the little C on so you remember okay that's the center line no well we have to do is add up how many pieces we have I remember our back wall is going to be seven feet finished so we have to take our 7 foot measurement minus the bottom plate and a top plate and a second top plate and the reason we use two top plates is because when I stand this wall up you'll see the frames for 16 inches apart there's a lot of weight coming from the roof and on this top plate and if you don't line up all of your rafters of your roof on these studs exactly then the transfer is going to be in between them and then these will start to bow things I'll start to come apart and will look messy by doubling up the top plate you add enough strength to transfer that load over to the sticks so when you build your roof you don't have to worry about being perfectly inline with your well framing because that'll drive you crazy the total height of the wall is gonna be 7 feet which is 84 inches - three pieces of lumber okay and their inch and a half each that makes it four and a half so one two three four and a half makes it seventy nine and a half inches and that's how long our studs are gonna be so what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna mark down 70 nine and a half on my lumber so I don't forget and the number of pieces at that length that I need so now I can come over to my pile and I can make all my marks and I'm not ever gonna forget what my measurement is now I'm gonna be using a black marker to make all my marks today just so that it shows up better on the camera on a bright sunny day like today it can be really hard to see a pencil mark so you can see how efficient this is just having the saw right next to your lumber pile pull the square up grab the saw line it up squeeze [Applause] and the next one just remember any time you're cutting your lumber like this anything that's less than 15 or 16 inches keep it in a separate pile they'll come real handy later when you're building your stabilizing for your walls or you're doing little work on the rafters or the sidewall this kind of stuff is like gold so I'll keep it organized and don't start sitting to it ahead of yourself and throwing it all out so you can see I've got my nine pieces would basically laid out in the location that they're gonna go and all you have to do here let's take your top plate walk it to the other side and then start nailing everything together I just remember that with dimensional lumber every two inches that of the dimensional number gets one screw or one nail so have two by four is two if you're building your shed with two by six for some weird reason we want to have it incredibly strong then make sure you're using three fasteners to just won't be enough to keep the studs from twisting overtime all right so if you've got the center mark lined up in the center of the wood and like I said there's two ways to do this you can screw it or you can know it if you're gonna use a hammer and nails I would suggest that you stand on both pieces of wood all right and if you're not used to this where steel toe boots in case you miss I have also seen I've also seen a lot of people where though they'll sit here and hold the wood in place and they'll swing the hammer like this just remember if you miss think about what you're gonna be hitting this is a pretty fast technique if you're comfortable with it and if you're not just use the screws so here's a little tip for you when you're working with the screw gun one of the benefits is if you have a piece of what that's twisted you can line up the bottom okay screw it in and then you can use this claw that's on the back of the framing hander now not every hammer has this so I like this hammer for this reason this little claw here actually gives you the ability to grab the wood and twist it and force it into place either direction okay with this twisted just push a little bit past where it's perfect driving your screw and then when you're done it'll keep your wood nice and straight alright well now that we've got our wall done we're ready to finish it what we want to do before we go stand it up into place is actually get the outside skin on the reason for that is because the board it's a typical kind of exterior board for sheds it comes pre-prime so this is the exterior panel it's basically designed to look like wood but it's more of a pressed board you can take a look at the back there's just a chipboard and the front of it has been manufactured to look like it's all kind of beautiful wood paneling there's our 48 inch line that's the middle of that stud that's what happens is you put the first one on flush at the corner you can nail all the way up the side of this one and it's tongue-in-groove so it's actually it's more like a ship like over overlap so the others the next piece will actually go overlap this and come up to this little raised bump right to here and it'll also have a nailing surface on that same Stud because we set this middle of the stud at the 48-inch which is right there so this isn't gonna work out perfect this is why if you understand you're building materials and how they're installed and you just follow the framing technique of keep everything on center 48 you're gonna be just fine now these sheets are eight feet tall so some more than what we need we're gonna go cut it off easiest way to do this it's just laying on your wall grab your level lined up with the top plate okay and make a mark but one inch higher because don't forget we're gonna use a second top plate in this case I'm just following my shadow cuz that'll work out well I'm gonna cut here when you're thinking about your fetish cuts for your exterior wall board you need to have your entire design plan forget it we're gonna go very New England style here so we're gonna use pieces of one by three trim at the corners at the bottom and the top just to close everything off get a nice finished look so I know I don't have to have my cuts perfect I just have to have them close and let all the trims do the rest of the work when you're cutting something thin adjust the depth of your blade okay to something thinner that'll help you keep your blade from overheating and from going worked on you get my zero on the mark and I'm gonna just follow along and I'm going to keep this zero on my pencil mark the whole time [Music] we're gonna save that for later just in case well it's important to note this is a primer not a finish paint it's not going to have good protection against the UV it'll just make sure that while you're building and the following couple of weeks after that it's not going to get destroyed if you get rain but it is very important to make sure you paint your finished product important to see that my finish floor is here but I'm bringing the wall board about a quarter inch away from the edge and that's intentional I don't want to have this wall board coming in contact with the concrete remember our protection from moisture wicking up is this lumber here this stuff I want to make sure I leave that air gap so don't have direct contact and all you really have to do here guys drive one of your nails okay now because we're gonna go this is the back side first of all and we're gonna get finished trims you don't have to be exact about getting in here and use a nail punch you can put these right through the thick part okay now you'll notice that these grooves are lined up with my nail heads so these boards are designed that might the groove of the board is lined up with everything at 16 inch 16 inch on center so I can actually go up and nail the middle of the board in as well which is perfect and I know that every second groove is gonna have lumber there once you understand that building materials are designed to fit together it's a lot more like Lego but you got to use a hammer it's not so intimidating is it what I would recommend is use your 16 inches as a rule every 16 inches across you want to put in a nail and every 16 inches going up as well now one of the best ways that you can drive the head of your nail in take your screw put it on the head of that nail and just drive it like that use it like a nail punch there's another tool you won't need to buy in order to square your wall off once you've done nailing the bottom push this over and get this nice and flush with the this one's you want this is the outside corner you wanted it nice and flush okay remember every second groove there's gonna be wood there now I don't need to nail this outside edge because I'm going to be overlapping it and then I'll put the nail in the next piece let's get it cut and ready to go [Music] now here's an interesting fact for you all of the kits that are out there for building sheds generally you're using the same board material so don't fall for the the idea that the kid is somehow giving you great value for your dollar I think you're gonna find that when you price this out this particular way of doing things will actually be a little bit a little bit cheaper than buying the kit now this is the same finishing board that the kits from the Home Depot on the Lowe's come with just try to keep everything nice and square here now it's like the shiplap right it's the overlap I'm going through both pieces of wood into the stud so I'm using a bit of an angle just to make sure the secret here is when you do paint the head of all these nails is going to get covered and they'll all disappear in the paint job and again because we have the overlap materials are designed to both go together we know that there's gonna be wood on the second groove I'm using a two inch hot dipped galvanized spiral nail and the reason I'm using that is because it is an exterior nail and I like to have a little bit of meat in the material that I'm attaching the ball to you could go with something shorter if you like but I like this one because the size of the head now the way that we're gonna measure the last board is from the outside coming in okay and remember this groove has got this little detail we know exactly the size so it's coming in at 23 and 3/4 should be exactly the same on the other side if we're at all square 23 and 3/4 whoo I'm about a sixteenth off whoo okay because we're finishing the outside corners with wood we're gonna take a little bit off on purpose so we're gonna go 23 and 5/8 instead just to make sure I got a nice fit and it's easier to put my brace on later now remember we have a ten-foot wall on the front of the building as well and this is just a little bit less than 24 inches we're cutting off which means the other half for this we're gonna want to save for the front of the building when I measure from the lip of that detail twenty three and five-eighths you see it's just next to my groove so instead of marking a line I'm just gonna follow with my saw blade and cut that off important to know before you cut your next board the front of this building is gonna be a full eight feet so we wanted to cut this off before we cut the height we're gonna nail the bottom in then I'm gonna nail the top on the other side make sure that my joint is closed here before you get too carried away I'm gonna teach everybody here a little trick how to lift up your wall by yourself and install your bracing although it having to collapse on you basically we're gonna put one screw into here not very tight you know act kind of like hinge all right so when I lift the wall up this piece of wood will stay on the ground I'll do another screw like a hinge on the other side after I lift it up I can grab this piece he'll be hinged I can lift it up screwed into the wall and to hold everything in place so in order to do that we want to just mark back half of what the depth of the two by four which is three and a half and that is one and three-quarters okay so one and three-quarters there once recorder's here that is exactly the midpoint of both those boards and if we throw one screw in that place and this will hold it in the perfect position [Music] watch you lift pull that back on the board of it now it's a hinge okay do the same on the other end here's the crazy part in order for this to work I have to have this board like this right so you want to get an idea of where you want it to be and then just drop it down and then screw it throw a screw in here too nice and loose okay now everything moves independently now we just lift the wall now watch the hinge part see nothing happens there okay I come over holding my wall new and I am going to intentionally have the wall leaning in just a little bit then you want that because I don't want it to have it the propensity to fall the other direction right now that would be bad okay here we go that's not going anywhere because we built the wall with stock lumber I'm not gonna put my second plate up after the fact all right and I can actually screw for underneath but I should find a straight one here we go just remember when you're getting materials delivered they're intentionally not getting the best stuff in the pile and the reality is I see guys there all day long checking every piece of lumber going through that pile like somehow they deserve the best wood in the world they're gonna get it home they're gonna put it outside it's gonna rain that night be just as twisted as everything else do yourself a favor and don't waste your time why don't you not tie everything together crooked lumber straight lumber it's all the same thing so here we go that's the seven foot high shed on the back wall now listen you don't need to have a six-foot wall with an eight foot peak and back to a six-foot wall again and make a really short entrance we're gonna go seven here eight feet out here you're gonna have tons of space you can up storage above your head when you're inside the shed this is a great design because now every part of this wall is no taller than the height of that panel right out of the factory this is important because if you make a gable wall with a peak then you have to make your whole shed really low or you're gonna be buying extra pieces of the next year you're bored in order to cap the triangular gable on the top so this is why this design works and it's really quick and simple now max is gonna go grab me some lunch and while he's gonna throw it on time-lapse and I'll just keep on building and we'll see you when he gets back all right now that I got that corner attached I'm just bringing all this in line and using screws to tighten it all together this is awesome because screws will actually pull things closed so the way we're going to finish the last wall is we're going to build it in place on the ground we're going to just open up the walls more than 90 degrees by measuring off our 10 foot board there we go so let's just get a quick update here what we're doing this is our back wall this is our seven foot cut double plate because that's gonna be the back side of our sloped roof metal transfer load onto these like I was talking about the sidewalls are attached screwed in the corners and opened up nice and wide so we can actually build our our front wall inside this space I attach the skin with an overhang on both sides so that when I put this wall up I can close this gap and nail it together okay and that'll leave my front face flush to this corner and that corner and then we'll put the trim boards on the reason these are cut full-length is because our roof line goes something like this right angle and until we get the front wall built and we have that angle defined I don't want to try to cut that board it's easier to do after the fact use a reciprocate or we can get that mark cut and then go at it from the inside and be just fine to do that before we put the roof on huh then we're gonna just add a little bit of stick framing inside that as well okay so let's not get ahead ahead of ourselves we're gonna build the front wall it's a full eight feet our lumber that we bought was actual eight-foot stick if you have lumber available in your area and it's 82 and 5/8 then you can buy that plus the top and bottom plate gets you to 96 I'm sorry 92 and 5/8 plus the top and bottom is 96 that'll work out fine too then you're gonna add the second top plate for the structural issue that I was talking about and if there's a gap with the front skin in the top it doesn't matter because we're going to be adding the 1 by 4 boards everywhere to cover up our gaps and to make it all look pretty so you have lots of flexibility which is why this design is perfect for the homeowner now we're gonna build the front wall and the reason we stopped there our production here to talk to you on camera is because we're gonna do a door and two windows now without getting into too much detail there's a variety of different types of window you can buy for a shed you can buy them so you have a regular case window and it has a nailing flange on it and I think if you buy or seen other videos there's a Windows that come with some of the shed kits it has the nailing flange and it goes over top of this board they need to nail that nailing flange on and it looks ugly uh what we're gonna do is we're actually getting a window it's design it's called a shed window it's at Home Depot it's part of their stock lumber stock inventory and it has a window exterior window casing like a jamb and it's it's wider than the window so when you're looking at them there's gonna be a measurement it'll say 15 by 39 okay is one of them the 15 measurement is actually the width of the exterior of the window the casement part that's inside that goes between your your your studs is actually I think I think it's I think it's only a 12 so this window you can cut into any stud Bay and you can just if you're not worried about your design or you're just looking to get a bit of daylight in there you can just take any stud Bay trace out the 39 inches cut it with the saw drop the skin off and then stick that window in alright and throw a couple screws from the inside and you're done and you're good to go what we're gonna do though is because we're worried about the design features here we're actually centering our door and then adding two windows so instead of measuring left to right on this wall we're actually gonna start from the center going in both directions so that our stud bays are perfectly symmetrical with the door and then we don't have to get into too much creative framing and then it'll make it easier to nail the skin on afterwards so we're gonna go with this particular shed we're going to use a traditional barn door style so we're gonna make a nice 32 inch opening with a 34 inch door so what I want to do is first I want to take this measurement I'm gonna get this out of the way and these are 10-foot pieces of lumber this is stock so we can just go mark our 5 foot as our centerline yeah that's a little rough and sloppy ok we're gonna get our square here okay there's our centerline no 32 inch door right that's 16 inches we put that under center line and we're gonna murk there and we're gonna mark 32 okay then we'll take our square and we'll translate that number across and we'll put the X bushes where the lumber will go so that'll represent the finished hole because we're actually nailing on a wood panel as a skin we don't need to double up on the studs here because it's not a hinge so we just go with one stud okay and then we're gonna say this is the rest of our space now we're gonna measure 16 inches this way all right now if we go here and here that would represent a window that leaves me with 12 inches on the other side but for me the window is a little bit too far to the right I would rather have a twelve inch gap here and a sixteen over here so I'll start there measuring 16 okay and then 32 and this will be my window okay now to think will look a lot better we'll do the same on the other side so outside coming in 16 and then 32 and then we'll mark the outside of that for the studs and that'll be my window placement so now you can see we have the center of our wall for our door frame to here there'll be a section of wall and then our window and because we measured from the outside on both sides everything on this is gonna be completely symmetrical again sometimes you just got to stop and think how is it gonna finish if you just go left to right the whole time you'll have windows stagger it off to the side and they look stupid so sometimes I'm doing features like this it's easier to measure from the middle going out anyway because we're gonna go with an eight-foot wall which is the size of our board which is dictating our design top plate bottom plate in the next plate - 8 foot stick I'm taking 4 inches off that'll leave me a little bit extra gap and that's fine man is it ever hot today I'll tell you we sure don't get that dry heat to get down on the south around here around here it's always that kind of heat that just makes you sweat just by opening up your eyes all right so 400 degrees right now so I've got 10 football section here and I have I have it set up where this wall is gonna go inside into this so the skin if it's flush there comes to the corner here perfect right so what I'm doing is I am basically setting this up eyeball so I'll put the two big pieces on and then I'm gonna try to line up the header of the door and see if I can arrange this somehow where everything is gonna work out perfect we'll see cuz I hate putting the skin all the way over the whole door and then cutting it all out that's almost perfect Wow what I'm gonna do is I'm going to pull this out on the lawn I'm gonna nail this piece on to square off the wall I'm gonna use this as my measuring template and then line this up so that the lines are in the right spot then I'll nail this one down and then I'll cut this one to install in the gap and then it'll be beautiful we're gonna just set this where it goes leave a little room there we want to just get this where it's supposed to go and have these grooves lined up here we go so we've got all this cut and installed it's gonna look really pretty I'm gonna cut this much here I want to create the overlap effect so I'm gonna actually try to cut this back a little bit so that when I when I break this off I'm gonna have a little bit of the under backside of this to go underneath this edge so I didn't bury that nail hold on just a little bit you'll see what I mean just enough to get that look BAM that'll be perfect got my mark here so I'm going to put my zero line on it all right I'm gonna place my finger beside the board we're gonna do the rip and I've pulled this up with six inches off the edge of the board and I put my zero on my mark set the end down and put my fingers I'm gonna hold the plate and to come back here use my fingers as the guy funny so let's put this panel in first time to go to last wall in place that's not gonna go away all right here we go one more screw just said this thing doesn't fall down I love how that pulls everything nice and tight together done okay crew it's been a busy day it's a hot day but we got our walls up we're just gonna have to get this squared get it attached to the concrete and then tomorrow we'll worry about the roof cuz I think I always looks like it's gonna rain typical when you order materials we had enough all right the the the dimensions here is at seven and a half feet deep and it's ten feet across the front and there was just enough of this material to finish this off except that panel over there is going to be a door and I'd like to have it all in one piece instead of my leftovers because it'll provide structural integrity for whatever framing I used for that door so in hindsight I should have left one of the panels on the back wall off and then I could have scabbed on the leftover pieces since it's not visible anyway because the front I'm headed in the back of my head I'll just use the leftovers on the front but because we measured from the center to get all the symmetry perfect I didn't want to have these lines messed up and so that's left me in this predicament so just advise for yourself yeah yeah it's nice to have all the skin on before you put the wall up but if you're gonna be doing this exact design keep at least one sheet off the back wall for the door area and then you can use your pieces on your back wall just a little tip for you so yours can be better than mine alright so now you can start to see this taking shape eight feet on the front seven on the back this will represent our roof structure we're gonna go with ten foot two by fours on a twelve inch center that'll transfer more than enough load back to each of these walls and then we'll be able to cap all that in the and some pressure-treated Sienna Brown wood so it'll have a finished wood exterior framing that whole roof line and be really cool but you get an idea we're gonna have a little bit of cut off here alright and then where it's shy it doesn't matter because we're gonna be framing in like a picture frame new england-style one by four trims and that's gonna be amazing so all in all you can start to see how this design is going to work out we're gonna have the roof extend above four inches on this side and almost two feet on the other side so we have an outdoor cupboard area you can put things outside you know storage firewood of that sort of thing yeah really liking where this is coming together very versatile very quick very cheap okay so the last part of our framing of the shed is actually to square it off and then get it attached to the concrete and this is very important there are a lot of areas around the world where it gets quite windy and so you don't want to just set your shed in the background or put it on a floating floor I mean if you want to put it on a floating deck that's fine but check your building codes and make sure it's allowed we're actually going to be attaching it to the concrete pour just as an added protection so that we don't have damage from wind and really it's not that hard to do since we square it off the pad we just put these in here right try in both directions make sure it's at least a nice decent regularly snug fit I checked all the corners already did a couple of Wiggles now we're ready to go and so we're gonna go through a couple of options here that we have one of course it's the same system we use in basements in a lot of cases both of these options are available one of them is just a hammer drill and tap chrome screws and the bit comes in the package with the Philips screw just remember the reason we build our walls with the plates fully intact even though we have door areas is because after we've attached everything to the ground then we'll cut out the plates this helps to make sure that everything is level and plumb and square before we cut holes for our doors so the doors install quite easily so don't go doing that rookie mistake and drilling in where the doors gonna be go to the stud just next to the edge of the door and then we can drill it in now this Dewalt is amazing it has an impact hammer drill on it and a high speed and I just set this right in there said it makes a bit of noise don't be afraid to use your mere protection here now you'll notice the best way to use tapcon is apply pressure and go all the way in until it's completely buried you want the hole as deep as your screw very important and if you start cleaning it out as you go you'll actually make the hole too big because this is all vibrating down there and the tip here is just gonna make a mess of the whole you want to have to force that screw in there if you're not forcing your screw in it's not really grabbing and it's not gonna do the job you want it to do the other option is a little bit more fun for all your gun enthusiasts out there so 22 caliber explosive hammer I like using the number fours just because they make a nice big bang being from Canada we don't get to use too many explosives and that sort of thing so it's kind of fun for us to get an excuse to use our hammer now this one's the trigger not the old-fashioned one you had to hit with a hammer and you always broke your wrist with it make sure before you put the nail in there's nothing no explosive charge in the chamber you just put that in there up to the orange why am i holding a nail that's a little bullet in there alright and then before you go getting crazy this one you definitely want to use hearing protection it's loud this is the first time I've had a chance to use this new toy with the trigger I've always had two semi-automatic or the single-shot so the directions say just to press it down push it switch and go and pull the trigger what boo well that was easy I wonder how loud it is without the ear protection oh that's pretty loud I'm thinking I'm gonna wear your protection I love this new trigger I mean it only takes about oh no maybe 15 pounds 20 pounds of pressure to get down to the end of that and I mean that nail was buried in there really good gotta love my job fire in the hole I love my job alright well that concludes everything the deal with building the walls next time we come we'll focus on building our roof system now this is awesome no shingles necessary no sheet metal you're gonna love it so thanks for joining us on our little video today of how to build some walls it's important to know how to free good framing comes with a good design and understanding how everything fits together so if you have a nice simple design like this framing is easy hopefully you've learned that and feel more confident with your framing projects if you have any questions about framing then by all means ask them in the comment section below I answer the questions I'm here to help so we look forward to seeing you there don't forget to check out our Instagram account we're gonna see you again soon [Music]

Channel: Home RenoVision DIY

Views: 931,037

Rating: 4.8640528 out of 5

Keywords: framing, building walls, shed walls, how to build a shed, building a shed, home renovision diy how to build a shed, home renovision shed, how to build a shed house, how to build a shed door, how to build a shed home renovision, building a shed from scratch, building a shed home, how to frame a shed by yourself, how to frame a shed, shed walls framing, shed walls materials, shed walls construction, framing walls for shed, framing a shed, building a shed on a budget part 3, shed

Id: M0FGt8ANhho

Length: 47min 31sec (2851 seconds)

Published: Sat Sep 08 2018