DIY How to Build a Shed A to Z

all right so in today's video we are going to show you how to do a shed construction project right from scratch we're talking about digging out the dirt to putting the last coat of paint on and we're use all the tools I'm wearing right here that's it anybody can do this and if you can build a shed remember you can build a house [Music] so the most important part of building your custom shed is layout and design remember design world when we're designing something it has to function and it doesn't have to just function for everybody it has to function just for you so what you need to consider is what kind of storage space are you creating now let's face it in today's world in North America we are consumer economy we got stuff we got so much stuff we have garages attached warehouse we don't even put our car in it we have sheds that are in that for gardening and they're so full of stuff you can't even begin to pot any seeds in there anymore so we need more space so the best way to do it is to build yourself a custom shed get some of the things out of your way like your lawn mower so that you can use your other shed get some room to store all your tools so you can get your garage back this is the solution to a lot of your problems so let's talk about what to do when you're thinking about building a shed first up let's talk about the space that you need to build one it doesn't seem to matter what kind of home you live in no matter where you are in this country you're going to need more space so if you don't have a lot of yard you might find yourself building like a little addition on the outside of your house and just some simple swing doors that might be fine but if you've got property like this and you're gonna have lawn maintenance equipment and you've got a lot of hobbies and that sort of thing then you need a lot more space so if you have the room for something rectangular I like to suggest that I like to have lots of doors on a storage area because I don't like it when you open the only door and you've got your lawnmower sitting right there in front of you and all you do is pitch things into the corner because you can't get into the room and that ends up just being a bunch of clutter mess right so I like rectangles and we have a building code where we're from where we can go 10 feet by 10 feet by 10 feet high and we don't need to get a permit for that because it's not a permanent structure so that's kind of the idea that we're gonna work with today we're gonna build it a little more rectangular 10 by 8 but if you want to get something longer or more square or even make yourself a round Mongolian you're the secret is you need storage and you've got to keep it dry so let's talk about things that are in the backyard that are going to cause you problems and how to avoid them now before we build we need to plan and there are four things you need to consider before you do that drainage sound wind and a all right you want to do four things with your shed you want to hide things that are unsightly you want to protect yourself from wind if you get too much wind and making something difficult to go grow in your garden or you want privacy issues or like we have a school yard behind us so behind this property we're actually going to create the shed to be actually a sound barrier wall as well which will be brilliant no more kids screaming in school bells and taking up the space in the afternoon and the other thing you want to deal with this drainage now this is crucial because this will affect the integrity of the structure almost every house that's built is built with the idea of drainage where the water is supposed to be running away from the building collecting in ditches or culverts or something like that and back here we're actually at the lowest part of this property but on the other side of the fence the drainage continues to go about another 10 or 12 feet which means even though we're a four-season climate and we're gonna get thaw and free cycles we aren't gonna have a buildup of water turning to to ice here so when we build our shed as long as we pour our concrete on top of a stone pad we're gonna be just fine and we're not going to experience all that heaving and cracking and breaking and tearing things apart so this is good to go so remember drainage wind sound and ugly as long as you take care of all of those in consideration of what you're gonna build you're gonna be just fine now what we have here is a really typical kind of pre-built shed eight by eight by eight it's got this double pitch roof let's just see alright yep there's the lawn mower and there's the and this is all you have access to for space typical and this might not be a problem for you this might actually be the solution you're looking for the secret here is this homeowner built it on those little two by two foot two concrete slabs on gravel but when you build it that way you have to make it dead perfect because these kind of prefab kits have no mercy if you don't have them exactly square and level and plumb so just a word of warning if you're gonna get a kit like this which runs a little over 500 bucks if that's gonna be enough space to solve your problem you're gonna want to watch step 2 of our program here just know how to pour a concrete pad because that pad is going to save you a lot of time in aggravation it took them almost three days to build this from one talking to him if he had the pad he could have done it in an afternoon so if this is enough solution for you that's great word of warning my experience no matter how big your stores area is you're gonna fill it so keep that in mind if this is going to be okay maybe going an extra couple hundred bucks and learning how to build something twice as big might be a better solution so just remember when you are designing your shed or your outdoor building keep in mind the neighborhood look at the lay of the land try to imagine what it's going to look like when it's there you don't want what you make to be a huge monstrosity so in our design we're actually going to do just a single sloped roof and you can see in the background if you put a big rectangle there with a single sloped roof it's going to fit in right along with the line of that cedar hedge you're not obstructing your sight line it's not going to look like a monstrosity from the other neighbors and around the corner and so you're not going to get any kickback from your neighbors right the other things for design think about using big barn doors lots of access think about having a secondary door around the side where you can bring a lawnmower instead of DIN the middle off the corner alright have one set of the walls set aside just for your lawnmower if you tuck it away and you only have to sweep a couple of feet every once in a while from the grass clippings it'll keep the rest your shed nice and clean I always like to say put in a couple of simple windows maybe something that opens up to get some airflow I always like to pour my pad a little bigger than the building it gives it as an outdoor storage space paper the opportunity for a little sitting area if you have a view that would take in this sunset it's just a thought and last but not least think about some hanging planters or window boxes dress it up remember it's a part of the home it's just a little bit off the side so if you make it look pretty it'll actually increase the value of your property and it's not going to cost you that much a little bit of sweat equity right but we're going to show you everything you need to do stay tuned with us on the ride so in this project we are building a shed in the backyard and we're going to build it on top of a concrete slab so we thought that we would take the time to go through the process for making a concrete slab because there are a lot of things you can use when you know how to use concrete you can make walkways and foundations for small buildings and you can just have like an unlimited opportunity to solve problems around your house with concrete if you know how to use it it's also a great foundation if you're building stairs or even going up and onto off the deck so there's no limit to it right but you got to get the process proper and this is what it's all about today there's some science behind it and if you understand the science then if you run into specific problems you'll know how to solve them too so let's get busy here we've basically just done a no line here it's an 8 by 12 slab that we've made here and I do this just because I'm a visual guy I'd like to see what I'm gonna end up with and now I can kind of use this layout here to identify my problems so the process is simple first you have to have your layout second you got to get rid of your organics because there's no sense building anything structural on top of grass it's gonna end up rotting and everything's gonna be moving around and you'll get a big crack in your concrete you don't want that so we have to remove our grass get these stones out of the way we have to build a frame we have to level the frame we want to introduce gravel because we need drainage we can use that to level everything off then we'll get into the mixing of the concrete and then we'll deal with how to finish it off so you get a decent look now in this video we are not going to be approaching this as professional concrete installers I am NOT one I work with concrete a little bit usually just fill in holes in basements but in this video we're going to show you how to use some of the basic tools you have at home so that you don't have to spend a fortune in order to get into the concrete business here we go so basically we just have a few basic garden tools I'm pretty sure everybody has these if you own a house for the backyard otherwise you wouldn't have much need of a pad so we've got some stone shovels and this is my little garden shovel this is great it's for edging but this does a really nice job of getting the sod removed ok I'm just a thought if you have a lot of sod and is really thick grass you need to remove there is a sod cutting machine that you can rent and it drops the blade in there and does a really quick job it can be a little bit of a pain in the butt picking it up and cleaning it and taking it back but if you're doing a large area it makes a real quick work of that next we're gonna need this large tooth break this is for moving our gravel around of course a level and then various shovels because we have sloped almost every yard has got a kind of slope so you're going to be moving some dirt can't get away from that and then that's really it it's not that tricky the only other secret weapon we have here today is we have a concrete mixer who are not mixing concrete in a pail if I had did 50 bags I would probably go through a dozen pails the little technique I use of mixing concrete and a pail for filling a hole in the basement doesn't work here unfortunately because after the third or fourth bag the pail blows up so we've gone out and picked up this little handy dandy homeowners version of a cement mixer it's one bag at a time we're gonna put it through the wringer today and see how well it works hopefully it lasts the whole day and we don't run into problems and of course our tools are in the description below if you want to take a look and we have an awesome wheelbarrow over here I don't know where max got this thing it's got two tires on it I love it it just seems to make the whole process a lot easier for moving things around now there's not much else to do other than talk about the fact that we have to get dirty it's hot today I'm gonna be a mess so let's just get to the chase time to get dirty so like a lot of jobs step one of your project it's always preparation so what we need to do is remove our organics and our stones here out of our way so that we can have a nice compacted gravel base so we're gonna just get dirty and roll this up and get it out of here and we're going to start by trying to salvage these big blocks because I would like to use these as a ramp later from my lawnmower so that I can open up a side door and push that lawnmower into the back of the shed instead of coming through the front door all the time and getting everything dirty that's a great way to lift the rock sweet so when you're removing sod remember the roots for the grass are actually what you want to get rid of so you're looking for about an inch inch to a quarter and that's generally what was left after we pulled those big stones out of the way so all you do get this little garden rake now look at this once you're underneath the roots everything comes up real nice and easy that's not that tricky is it that's why the the beauty of this straight blade right that does it all the work for you you don't want to fight it from the top because you're trying to cut through all the roots here we're just separating this root material from the dirt [Music] okay so we've got rid of our organics and now we are just trenching the front of the pad this is it the high side and it's just a matter of creating a hole because we're on a hill and I'm using these five quarter boards as my framing I'm gonna stick this in I want to be able to drop it in so that my concrete finish is just a little bit above the grass and then I'm gonna level off the box okay now the sides don't need to be leveled off but the front the back sure do because we're gonna use a 16 foot board discrete our concrete later we'll show you that but in order to get this level and get our concrete as close to the grass as we can so we're not building out of the ground we're gonna dig a trench here set in our board and then we'll screw it all together and level it off one of the advantages of building a shed and a clearing is we're not running into too many roofs keep in mind if you're near a larger tree you might need to have yourself a sawzall tool handy to cut through some of these as you go set this in perfect now it's just a matter of setting the right height so we're at the point where we've got our organics taken care of we've got our trench built this is gonna be our our front Ridge board now really want to take a look at the slope of your ground here start at your high point on the front of the of the the pad and the reason being when you do get a heavy rain and the rains gonna be coming following the grade of the property towards your pad it's nice if your pads a couple inches higher than the grass a it's easy to trim when you're cleaning up your grass work but it's also nice to divert the water around the sides and so it doesn't come over the edge of the pad and then try to infiltrate the structure that we're gonna put on top of this pad because we're making a shed we just want to think through what happens in extreme weather so we don't run into problems with off recycle and crazy storms so having it elevated is gonna be really beneficial so this is our hi side so we're gonna establish our point here about two inches above the grass we're gonna use one of these right there in my corner and I like that and this is basically going to be that's it that's gonna be the height of my pad off my patio I'm about two inches there I think I like that now we're going to level all the way across the front using three bricks and our big level here and then we're going to level the back okay now the sides we're just gonna screw together to hold it all in add some stakes and then we're ready to start doing our back filling but first of all let's just go over to the middle here obviously I'm Way too low here so I'm just going to put in a little bit of dirt lift that up see if that works and now I can go and now I see how much I have to raise this up Wow that's pretty substantial Jenna do finally we have more than we need I'm just gonna wiggle this around until we get it down to where we want it perfect now just a quick note the longer your level the more accurate is gonna read especially when you're dealing with lumber this is a six foot so this works really well in a lot of cases ah so now that we have that level I'm just gonna put up the side boards there on one screw on each end just to keep the joint closed now we're gonna go set up at the backside do the same thing there only this time we're going to use one of the 16 foot boards and we're gonna level from the front side to the back side and get this all squared off as well so we've got our 16 foot board here and this is almost one of these situations where you want three hands I'm gonna lift this board now and I'm going to find out roughly how much I have to build up before I get too crazy there we go that's level amazing Hey Wow just a little bit more than that brick standing on end that'll give you an idea of how much build up we have to have back here I'm expecting a little bit of weather to get in the shed so be nice if it had a little bit of a drainage effect off the back end I am about 3/8 of an inch lower than I should be right now that's a little bit much so when I put the level on I knew I had to bring this board just a little bit higher than that so I don't really need this board right at the moment what I'm gonna do let's just lift this board up flush and then a little bit and drive a screw in to set the corner okay now we'll go check the other side that is actually crazy that's a little bit too high Wow Wow yeah that just gets crazy so you can see we just finished off figuring out that our level is way up here almost eight inches off the ground that's gonna involve way too much aggregate and way too much work to fill this hole so what we're gonna do is we're gonna go back to the beginning we're gonna reset our our first Ridge here much lower flush with the grass ha now we originally talked about the design we wanted to have it higher than the grass for drainage so what we've just done is we've decided that because there's so much backfill to go on after we're done with the pad we're gonna dig out the first 8 10 inches of grass around the perimeter and put in some River stone to fill that up so that way the ground has a natural drainage around our slab we can accomplish the same thing doing that way and it'll also help to remove the amount of aggregate and work that's gonna be necessary to fill this hole Oh let's start all over again ok so now we basically have our our frame all figured out one last step we have to do with the framing and that's square it all off and then put in our posts we want to add a couple of little little 2x2 stakes just around the perimeter to help keep things from flexing underneath the weight of all of the aggregate and Samantha we're putting in here other than that we're pretty much good to go we have some reinforced steel that we're gonna put in as well after we put in our stone and that is going to be just to provide this slab with some strength because we do have for season weather here and when the ground freezes it'll help hold it in one piece and it'll raise and fall together in the winter time and that'll be really important because basically it freezes around the outside first and as the frost line creeps in the ground starts to lift and you want your slab to lift together and then settle the other so the reinforcement I am on anything that outside is super super important now to square this off it's time to get a little bit of Pythagoras theorem going I know that sounds scary that's math right so what we're looking for is combinations of 3 4 & 5 so 3 feet on one side 4 feet on the other side then the the other side of that triangle should be 5 so if we go 6 8 and 10 that's what we should be looking for Wow I'm only a quarter inch off and since it's a slab and it's outside I think that's about a squares I need to make that today fantastic eyeballing job a 1 on the short side 2 on each of the long sides 1 on that short side hang out extra ones yeah we're just gonna drive them in here that works so back here the grounds a little tough so I made myself a little dracula snake gotta love having a skill saw on the job and here yeah that's gonna work that's gonna be awesome the best thing about concrete folks it's not art it's just science so I'm just gonna backfill this dirt here that we pull out of the way back to where it came from and then it's time to get the wheelbarrow out and get the get this stone shoveled in here before you know it it's gonna be time to pour concrete all right now what we have here is 1/2 inch clear stone and you're gonna find most cases residential they're gonna drop this off in your front yard and you're gonna have to bring it back here and you can either bring it back when it's time to fill the pit or you can do some of this work in advance so just remember when you're ordering stone delivery make sure you understand the context of the contract are they dropping it at the end of your driveway so that you can't get your car out make sure it's your prayer prepped and ready to go for that because most cases these delivery services are just dropping at the driveway and go and it only takes them less than five minutes if you're not paying attention they'll be done and gone before you realize it he got a lot of shuffling to do but in order to go pick up the kids from school and just keep in mind to the cost of the stones to yard purchase thirty-six bucks it'll be it'll vary depending on your region but it's about the same kind of price right and it's the delivery that costs the money but if you were to bring this much stone back in bags from a building store it would cost you maybe four or five hundred dollars the same amount of stone if they packaged it in plastic for you so it's not that kind of money you can buy yourself a handy dandy wheelbarrow like this with two wheels and it's so much easier to work with - the - did you do so I've got about twenty trips of the stone and then we'll be able to set a rebar [Music] just remember one of the advantages of moving all your stone onto a blue tarp is when you're almost done you can empty out all of what's left and not leave a mess in your yard [Applause] tada [Music] when when you lay out your stone don't be too particular about where there is two inches or three inch depth we're just trying to get it in the ballpark remember we're putting just a shed on here so it's not like we're supporting the weight of all entire house we just want to have it somewhat level make sure it's pushed into all the corners you won't have cement losing out all over the ground okay so are still grid here is four by eight feet made our box twelve feet wide it's kind of a no-brainer we're gonna put in three now the reason I'm putting it primarily to the front is that in this shed our design is the front couple of feet are going to be exposed to the elements where the back is only inside the shed and honestly if we get a crack in the floor in the back of a shed it doesn't really matter but up front we really want to do everything we can do to make sure that this stays in one piece we are all ready to mix our cement now I call me old-fashioned but I like to bring my work to where I'm working so we set up our mixer in the pit with our concrete and we're gonna bring the water over here and we're just gonna fill left to right front to back so every couple of feet at a time and we'll screed it and then we'll move the machine over after we've deleted some bags and we'll just keep doing that until we work our way out of the pit now I think we're gonna need a lot more concrete than we see here right now but it's just nice to get started where it's convenient remember read instructions back of the bag says takes two point seven liters of water for every bag of concrete this mixer is a one bag at a time deal and it's really simple we put the contents in here water first concrete second open up the pour it out on the ground rake it around rinse repeat as April Wilkinson was hey we're gonna do that probably around forty-five fifty times and then we'll have a nice finished pad we're also going to smooth it out as we go so we'll screed it and then I just brought whatever tile travel I had laying around I got a nice flat smooth edge on it and we'll give us the concrete a nice smooth finish before we move on too far so anyway we're just going to use this measuring cup to figure out our two point seven liters make a black mark on our pail so that we can do the same thing over and over again and have some continuity with our concrete really life is that simple sometimes [Applause] we're gonna work with that alright now we don't need the picture anymore but we do need a black marker and find a level spot Wow there we go that actually shows up from the inside okay beautiful so now we're gonna give this machine its inaugural run now max pick this up at a local store and it was a floor model it did not come with instructions so bear with us while we try to figure out how this thing operates let's see we just push the green button see what happens oh yeah alright we'll get this bad boy turned on we do not have the ability to lock this in place I think this is gonna be a long day that's not so bad oh it has a mind of its own this is awesome just going to put on a bit of an angle here so that it'll mix thoroughly through [Music] all right Wow I'm thinking we're gonna have to do this on on a time-lapse video so I can get max to help me this is a two-man operation so I think obviously the 2.7 liters per bag those are directions if you're mixing it by hand in a wheelbarrow using this kind of machine you're gonna use a little bit more water or it just won't won't mix up properly part of that's cuz it's leaking but I think part of its just the nature of how this tumbles anyway that's all right let's just get at it because there that's a lump of cement right there and we got to get moving this thing around [Music] so you can see we are almost halfway through mixing our concrete it's been a little over an hour just wanted to take a minute now and discuss some of the techniques that we're using here I figured it was easy for you to see the process and then we could discuss it so it kind of made sense since we are using a 16 foot piece of lumber as our screed board and it basically runs from Ridge to Ridge and creates a flat surface and just like when we're doing drywall mud or any other kind of finishing we start from rough and push towards finish okay now this is a lot easier with a second person like you saw in the other footage but now he's holding in the camera that's the process once you get done to a certain point where you don't have holes to fill you just jump to the other side and then come back with a lot of movement and you can see that's how you get your surface if you get any potholes or that sort of thing just take a handful shove it in and go again okay it's that simple once we were done our screeding I was just taking my trowel and this is actually used for doing tile work but what it has it it has one straight edge right here and I'm using this to act as my float and you'll see so when you run it over the surface magically makes everything smooth all right after about 45 minutes the concrete sets up and then you can just take your Big Shot broom and lightly drag it across the concrete now if you have big nasty chunk of debris that kind of wrecks the look no that puts a texture on the concrete so that it's not slippery in the wintertime or when it rains and generally it makes all of the little ripples go away so this isn't quite as old and you can see when I run that broom it doesn't okay job but it's grabbing chunks of rock and pulling it up out of the cement and you don't want that so if that happens to you follow us out take your trowel smooth it off again give it another 15 or 20 minutes then come back to the broom you'd be good to go call me crazy but when I'm working out in this kind of heat I like to wash everything up but once every hour or so it just makes it a lot easier at the end nothing's baked on besides on a day like today a little bit of spray off the hose never hurts so there we go that's all the tips and tricks for working with a cement slab that I've got for you the only other thing we're going to do is at the end of the video we're going to come back tomorrow and we're gonna hammer off all of the boards and reveal the finished slab so we're gonna get back to work now and turn the camera off and we'll catch you in a minute okay well we're back out on their pad here this is pretty awesome it's been a few days and as you can see there was a fence company that came by and put up the fence between the neighbors and that's why we gave this a few days before we got back wanted to make sure that they had a chance to get everything done and get out of the way we're just back here today we got to take out all of our supports and pull off our boards ah here we go there we go yeah I do have a scrutiny fantastic just a little bit of a vibration that's all it takes and you can pull these things right out we got ourselves here we go the irony is we recently only had 50 bags wasn't enough so we went and grabbed another ten and this little one piers that represents the extra boy no have talked about measuring closing all right here we go my assistant and I are out here taking a look at the pad now I just wanted to go over a couple of basic details this is a 10 by 12 foot slab it took a full yard sorry a full ton of gravel and 60 bags of cement to get this finished so give you an idea of the kind of volume you're looking at for a 3 inch pour you can use that sort of math you can also go to the stone yard and you can give them the size and square footage and the depth that you're gonna work with and they've got a little calculator on their computer and they can formulate your your stuff for you this was actually poured over two days because we were running short so what we did is we poured this whole section and across the front and then after it is set for about an hour and a half we managed to broom that and got a pretty good look the second day this was done so that's why you see the line it doesn't really matter we're building a shed and it's going to be 7 by 10 so all of the second part of the pour is gonna be inside the shed we're not concerned visually this is still going to be stunning and just really glad this little machine over here was awesome we're really pleased because we didn't expect it to make it through the whole process we thought would be mixed in the last few bags in the wheelbarrow but it held up really great so kudos to that machine if you're in the market for a cement mixer these little one bag at a time the good little machines and so if you're wondering about the dunnsworth I the funny story here is max was actually inspired do cement work he was watching a video by an actor who was in the Trailer Park Boys series and he lives out east and done a bunch of concrete work at his house and so Max was like I got to get me a cement mixer and I'm gonna do some concrete work so when the idea came up to put the shed together max was like oh I'm gonna make this huge pad from my house and so he bought this machine and so since it stood up the test of time he's nicknamed it the dunnsworth in honor of the actor so I think that's pretty darn cool so now the pads complete we're ready to go to our next step the weather is favorable and it's time to start framing when you're framing on a concrete slab you need two different kinds of wood one is you need regular spruce lumber and the other one is you need pressure-treated okay and the reason you want pressure-treated lumber is because the building code allows for you to use this as your bottom plate in direct contact with concrete so that it won't suck up the moisture through the concrete and into your wall when you build like this you actually have a moisture barrier between your concrete and your spruce so that the mold that's naturally occurring in wood cannot grow this is very important because whether you're outside on a concrete pad like we are or you're framing in your basement it's the same science and if you build like we were gonna show you today you'll be able to frame anything in your house so one of the things we like to do on our channel is show you techniques and tips and tricks that involve basic tools because most homeowners or do yourselfers don't have an array of tools to work with so for instance and a lot of framing videos you'll see people working with the automatic nailing guns and those are great and if you got one by all means help yourself it'll speed things up a little bit but the reality is they're running around four hundred dollars and if you don't have a good compressor or you don't have an extra four hundred dollars to put into the cost of building just a shed you don't want to go and buy one of those things so we're going to show you two techniques basic drill and screws and we're also going to show you how to use a hammer nails I know it's a little old school but the fact is is it's about the same speed so whatever you're more comfortable using we're gonna show you how to do both but before we get started let's just think you want to have the design of your shed now typically I've seen all kinds of sheds are built like barns all the walls are the same size they have gable ends and they've got a peak roof like this but the reality is that's a lot of work to build a shed with that kind of roof design so what we're gonna do is a little bit different so I'm gonna give you an idea what's going to happen let's say from this post to this post is the side of our shed and this is about an 8 foot tall we're gonna build it with the wall on the back side of the shed at 7 feet and the wall at the front at 8 feet so we have a slope that will facilitate our removing of the water to the back side of the shed but it also makes it really easy to build and you only have to build one slope for the roof this is why I'm going to show you this technique today because building a shed doesn't have to be a work of art it has to be functional and the first rule of design is make sure it functions there's no need to make all kinds of extra work and all kinds of extra design elements and building a shed with two different slope on the roof so by doing one slope we can actually save a lot of money because we don't have gable ends that we have to use extra materials and throw in the garbage and that'll save you time and money and it'll give you a great look so we're gonna finish this off with a nice little pressure-treated one by five running around the edge of the roof you weren't gonna see any roofing it's gonna be sleek it's gonna be sexy it's gonna function it's gonna be cheap it's gonna be quick stay with us so we've just cut our boards we've got our layout here we've got two by fours pressure-treated ten-foot long and then these ones we've cut back so that our total exterior is 7 feet the reason we're doing that is our design element actually takes into place our roofers are going to extend out to the front edge of this lab we have a couple of posts to pick up the weight and you also have a sitting area out front as well and I'm sure the dog will appreciate having a nice cool shaded area to sit all day long our elements here are basically simple gonna have a door in the middle and have a window in each side and we're gonna have a cheater door back here that swings open you can bring a lawnmower in from the backside the reason we're doing that is because if you can bring the lawnmower in up against an outside wall you're gonna actually save a ton of space having to bring your lawnmower into the main door makes everything dirty all the time and it keeps you from having a clean shed because you need room for removing it around or you're just always in the way so we're gonna have a little cheat door here it'd be almost like a hidden door the little side ramp we're gonna build that separately but let's get back to framing we need to lay out you need to understand what it is you're gonna build so the way you lay it out is simple basically it's all about visualization for us we're doing have a plan we're working off it's all coming out of here so we're gonna go with our 10-foot by our 7-foot that is simple and we are going to just cut our plate put it in place get an idea am I going to be happy with that is that is that big enough is it small enough once you've got all those questions done then you're ready to start because this framing here this plate this is the first step that you need next step you do is you make the same frame for the top of the walls and you just get all those cut and laid out as well so in our effort to try to keep things really simple if you have a skill saw I'm going to show you a way that you can actually cut all your framing lumber and then you don't need to set up a chop saw just take your measurement put your mark on the wood get your little square here or triangle as I call it because it kind of looks like a triangle anyway on your saw you're gonna have a line work mark zero where the blade cuts and you want to set that up on your pencil mark and then move the triangle right up to the to the guide right up to the guard and I'm gonna use this squeezing it like against the frame to be my cutting guide so I cut straight through the wood that gets you a perfectly square cut nothing ever binds nothing's ever on an angle and everything is always perfect because you're not freehand cutting so that's a great technique and if you don't have a chop saw and you want to build a shed or you want to frame your basement you can use that technique it only takes a couple seconds a cut and honestly it'll say be a few hundred dollars we have the foundation for her building today we have all of our walls top and bottom plate and now it's just a matter of constructing eight individual wall so we'll take our pieces and we'll set them aside for now so we have room to build on our pad and then lift everything in place as we go now it's very important that when you're framing your wall you know how to mark it up and it's easier because we're using pressure-treated for the bottom and regular lumber for the top otherwise you should mark it bottom and top just so you don't get confused especially if you're going to be putting doors or windows in basically what you do is get them flush at the end you run your tape across it for anybody who doesn't have an understanding of building materials this is where you really need to understand the building technique that we use is so that it accommodates the materials that were going to be installing to finish so right here is our 48 inches and this is really important if our lumber is an inch and a half thick and that would represent the full thickness of a piece of wood this is marked to the middle now when we put on our sheet good is four feet long we want to have it finish in the middle of a stud so we can nail it put on the next piece and the hive and nailing surface for that one as well so when you're marking this we're going to go four feet on center so it's every 16 inches on center so all of these are gonna be on red squares okay so you can actually mark the center of all of your sticks top and bottom where all these little red squares are okay and that'll help make sure that things go well now professional framers would frame it this way they'd go like this okay mark three-quarters over and then put an X where the wood is I'll actually mark the side of the board now either one of those techniques works fine as long as you have a system that you're using make sure that you can finish with the center of the wood on the red square that is really the whole secret buying a good tape measure so that you are able to understand what you're doing without having to do the math as you go along okay and of course the end of every wall gets a stick as well that's what I'm saying and now this is the center mark I'm using two different systems here just to demonstrate if you're marking a center put the little C on so you remember okay that's the center line now all we have to do is add up how many pieces we have I remember a back wall is going to be seven feet at finish so we have to take our seven-foot measurement minus the bottom plate and a top plate and a second top plate and the reason we use two top plates is because when I stand this wall up you'll see the frames for 16 inches apart there's a lot of weight coming from the roof and on this top plate and if you don't line up all of your rafters of your roof on these studs exactly then the transfer is going to be in between them and then these will start to both things start to come apart and look messy by doubling up the top plate you add enough strength to transfer that load over to the sticks so when you build your roof you don't have to worry about being perfectly in line with your well framing because that'll drive you crazy the total height of the wall is gonna be 7 feet which is 84 inches - 3 pieces of lumber ok and their inch and a half each that makes it four and a half so one two three four and a half makes it 79 and a half inches and that's how long our studs are gonna be so what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna mark down seventy nine and a half on my lumber so I don't forget and the number of pieces at that length that I need so now I can come over to my pile and I can make all my marks and I'm not ever gonna forget what my measurement is you know I'm gonna be using a black marker to make all my marks today just so that it shows up better on the camera on a bright sunny day like today it can be really hard to see a pencil mark so you can see how efficient this is just having the saw right next to your lumber pile pull the square up grab the saw line it up squeeze [Applause] [Music] just remember anytime you're cutting your lumber like this anything that's less than 15 or 16 inches keep it in a separate pile they'll come real handy later when you're building your stabilizing for your walls or you're doing little work on the rafters or the side wall this kind of stuff is like gold so I'll keep it organized and don't start fitting to it ahead of yourself and throwing it all out so you can see I've got my nine pieces would basically laid out in the location that they're going to go and all you have to do here let's take your top plate walk it to the other side and then start nailing everything together I just remember that with dimensional lumber every two inches that of the dimensional number gets one screw or one nail so have 2x4 is - if you're building your shed with two by six for some weird reason we want to have it incredibly strong then make sure you're using three fasteners - just won't be enough to keep them studs from twisting over time all right so if you've got the center mark line it up in the center of the wood and like I said there's two ways to do this you can screw it or you can nail it if you're gonna use a hammer nails I would suggest that you stand on both pieces of wood and if you're not used to this where steel toe boots in case you miss I have also seen also see and a lot of people were though they'll sit here and hold the wood in place and they'll swing the hammer like this just remember if you miss think about what you're gonna be hitting this is a pretty fast technique if you're comfortable with it and if you're not just use the screws so here's a little tip for you when you're working with the screw gun one of the benefits is if you have a piece of wood that's twisted you can line up the bottom okay screw it in and then you can use this claw that's on the back of the framing hanger now not every hammer has this so I like this hammer for this reason this little claw here actually gives you the ability to grab the wood and twist it and force it into place either direction okay we've just twisted just push a little bit past where it's perfect driving your screw and then when you're done that'll keep your wood nice and straight all right well now that we've got our wall done we're ready to finish it what we want to do before we go stand it up into place is actually get the outside skin on the reason for that is because the board it's a typical kind of exterior board for sheds it comes pre-prime so this is the exterior panel it's basically designed to look like wood but it's more of a pressed board you can take a look at the back there's just a chipboard and the front of it has been manufactured to look like it's all kind of beautiful wood paneling there's our 48 inch line that's the middle of that stud that's what happens is you put the first one on flush at the corner you can nail all the way up the side of this one and it's tongue-in-groove so it's actually it's more like a ship like overlap so the others the next piece will actually go overlap this and come up to this little raised bump right to here and it'll also have a nailing surface on that same stud because we set this middle of the stud at the four which is right there so this isn't gonna work out perfect this is why if you understand your building materials and how they're installed and you just follow the framing technique of keep everything on center 48 you're gonna be just fine now these sheets are eight feet tall so it's more than what we need so we're gonna go cut it off easiest way to do this it's just laying on your wall grab your level lined up with the top plate okay and make a mark but one inch higher because don't forget we're gonna use a second top plate in this case I'm just following my shadow cuz that'll work out well I'm gonna cut here when you're thinking about your fetish cuts for your exterior wall board you need to have your entire design plan figured out we're gonna go very New England style here so we're gonna use pieces of one by three trim at the corners at the bottom and the top just to close everything off get a nice finished look so I know I don't have to have my cuts perfect I just have to have them close and let all the trims do the rest of the work when you're cutting something thin adjust the depth of your blade okay to something thinner that'll help you keep your blade from overheating and from going worked on you get my zero on the mark and I'm gonna just follow along and I'm going to keep this zero on my pencil mark the whole time [Music] and we're gonna save that for later just in case well it's important to note this is a primer not a finished paint it's not going to have good protection against the UV it'll just make sure that while you're building and the following couple of weeks after that it's not going to get destroyed if you get rain but it is very important to make sure you paint your finished product important to see that my finished floor is here but I'm bringing the wall board about a quarter inch away from the edge and that's intentional I don't want to have this wall board coming in contact with the concrete remember our protection from moisture wicking up is this lumber here this stuff I want to make sure I leave that air gap so don't have direct contact and all you really have to do here guys drive one of your nails okay now because we're gonna go this is the back side first of all and we're gonna get finished trims you don't have to be exact about getting in here and use a nail punch you can put these right through the thick part okay now you'll notice that these grooves are lined up with my nail heads so these boards are designed that might the groove of the board is lined up with everything sixteenths inch 16 inch on center so I can actually go up and nail the middle of the board in as well which is perfect and I know that every second groove is gonna have lumber there once you understand that building materials are designed to fit together it's a lot more like Lego but you got to use a hammer it's not so intimidating is it what I would recommend is use your 16 inches as a rule every 16 inches across you want to put in a nail and every 16 inches going up as well now one of the best ways that you can drive the head of your nail in take your screw put it on the head of that nail and just drive it like that use it like a nail punch there's another tool you won't need to buy in order to square your wall off once you've done nailing the bottom push this over and get this nice and flush with the else this one's you want this is the outside corner you wanted it nice and flush okay remember every second groove there's gonna be wood there now I don't need to nail this outside edge because I'm going to be overlapping it and then I'll put the nail in the next piece let's get it cut and ready to go [Music] now here's an interesting fact for you all of the kits that are out there for building sheds generally you're using the same board material so don't fall for the the idea that the kid is somehow giving you great value for your dollar I think you're gonna find that when you price this out this particular way of doing things will actually be a little bit a little bit cheaper than buying the kit now this is the same finishing board that the kits from the Home Depot on the Lowe's come with just try to keep everything nice and square here now it's like the shiplap right it's the overlap I'm going through both pieces of wood into the stud so I'm using a bit of an angle just to make sure the secret here is when you do paint the head of all these nails is going to get covered and they'll all disappear in the paint job and again because we have the overlap materials are designed to boot and go together we know that there's gonna be wood on the second groove I'm using a two inch hot dipped galvanized spiral nail and the reason I'm using that is because it is an exterior nail and I like to have a little bit of meat in the material that I'm attaching the ball to you could go with something shorter if you like but I like this one because the size of the head now the way that we're gonna measure the last port is from the outside coming in okay and remember this groove has got this little detail we know exactly the size so it's coming in at 23 and 3/4 should be exactly the same on the other side if we're at all square 23 and 3/4 whew I'm about a sixteenth off whoo okay because we're finishing the outside corners with wood we're gonna take a little bit off on purpose so we're gonna go 23 and 5/8 instead just to make sure I got a nice fit and it's easier to put my brace on later no remember we have a 10 foot wall on the front of the building as well and this is just a little bit less than 24 inches we're cutting off which means the other half for this we're gonna want to save for the front of the building when I measure from the lip of that detail twenty three and five-eighths you know see it's just next to my group so instead of marking a line I'm just gonna follow with my saw blade and cut that off important to know before you cut your next board the front of this building is gonna be a full eight feet so we wanted to cut this off before we cut the height we're gonna nail the bottom then I'm gonna nail the top on the other side make sure that my joint is closed here before you get too carried away I'm gonna teach everybody here a little trick how to lift up your wall by yourself and install your bracing how about having it collapse on you basically we're gonna put one screw into here not very tight you know act kind of like a hinge all right so when I lift the wall up this piece of wood will stay on the ground I'll do another screw like a hinge on the other side after I lift it up I can grab this piece he'll be hinged I can lift it up screw it into the wall and to hold everything in place so in order to do that we want to just mark back half of what the depth of the two by four which is three and a half and that is one and three quarters okay so one two three quarters there one and three quarters here that is exactly the midpoint of both those boards and if we throw one screw in that place and this will hold it in the perfect position [Music] watch you lift pull that back on the board of it now it's a hinge okay do the same on the other end here's the crazy part in order for this to work I have to have this board like this right so you want to get an idea of where you want it to be and then just drop it down and then screw it and throw a screw in here - nice and loose okay now everything moves independently now we just lift the wall now watch the hinge part see nothing happens there okay to come over holding my wall new and I am going to intentionally have the wall leaning in just a little bit then you want that because I don't want it to have it the propensity to follow the other direction right now that would be bad okay here we go that's not going anywhere because we built the wall with stock lumber I'm not gonna put my second plate up after the fact right and I can actually screw roof underneath but I should find a straight one here we go just remember when you get materials delivered they're intentionally not getting the best stuff in the pile and the reality is I see guys there all day long checking every piece of lumber going through that pile like somehow they deserve the best wood in the world Thurston they're gonna get it home they're gonna put it outside it's gonna rain that night be just as twisted as everything else do yourself a favor and don't waste your time not to tie everything together crooked lumber straight lumber it's all the same thing so here we go that's the seven foot high shed on the back wall now listen you don't need to have a six-foot wall with an eight-foot peak and back to a six-foot wall again and make a really short entrance we're gonna go seven here eight feet out here they're gonna have tons of space you can up storage above your head when you're inside the shed this is a great design because now every part of this wall is no taller than the height of that panel right out of the factory this is important because if you make a gable wall with a peak now you have to make your whole shed really low or are you gonna be buying extra pieces of the next earier board in order to cap the triangular gable on the top so this is why this design works and it's real quick and simple now max is gonna go grab me some lunch and while he's gonna throw it on time-lapse and I'll just keep on building and we'll see you when he gets back [Music] all right well now that I got that corner are attached I'm just bringing all this inline and using screws to tighten it all together this is awesome because screws will actually pull things closed so the way we're going to finish the last wall is we're going to build it in place on the ground we're going to just open up the walls more than 90 degrees by measuring off our 10 foot board there we go so let's just get a quick update here what we're doing this is our back wall this is our seven foot cut double plate because that's gonna be the back side of our sloped roof metal transfer load onto these like I was talking about the sidewalls are attached screwed in the corners and opened up nice and wide so we can actually build our our front wall inside this space I attach the skin with an overhang on both sides so that when I put this wall up I can close this gap and nail it together okay and that'll leave my front face flush to this corner and that corner and then we'll put the trim boards on the reason these are cut full-length is because a roof line goes something like this right angle and until we get the front wall built and we have that angle defined I don't want to try to cut that board it's easier to do after the fact use a reciprocate or we can get that mark cut and then go at it from the inside and be just fine to do that before we put the roof on huh then we're gonna just add a little bit of stick framing inside that as well okay so let's not get ahead ahead of ourselves we're gonna build the front wall it's a full eight feet our lumber that we bought was actual eight foot stick if you have lumber available in your area and it's 82 and 5/8 then you can buy that plus the top and bottom plate gets you to 96 I'm sorry 92 and 5/8 plus the top and bottom is 96 that'll work out fine too then you're gonna add the second top plate for the structural issue that I was talking about and if there's a gap with the front skin in the top it doesn't matter because we're going to be adding the 1 by 4 boards everywhere to cover up our gaps and to make it all look pretty so you have lots of flexibility which is why this design is perfect for the homeowner now we're gonna build the front wall and the reason we stopped there our production here to talk to you on camera is because we're going to do a door and two windows now without getting into too much detail there's a variety of different types of window you can buy for a shed you can buy them so you have a regular case window and it has a nailing flange on it and I think if you buy or seen other videos there's windows that come with some of the shed kits it has the nailing flange and it goes over top of this board they need to nail that nailing flange on and it looks ugly uh what we're gonna do is we're actually getting a window it's design it's called a shed window it's at Home Depot it's part of their stock lumber stock inventory and it has a window exterior window casing like a jamb and it's it's wider than the window so when you're looking at them there's gonna be a measurement it'll say 15 by 39 okay is one of them the 15 measurement is actually the width of the exterior of the window the casement part that's inside that goes between your your your studs is actually I think I think it's I think it's only a 12 so this window you can cut into any stud Bay and you can just if you're not worried about your design or you're just looking to get a bit of daylight in there you can just take any stud bag trace out the 39 inches cut it with the saw drop the skin off and then stick that window in alright and throw a couple screws from the inside and you're done and you're good to go what we're gonna do though is because we're worried about the design features here we're actually centering our door and then adding two windows so instead of measuring left to right on this wall we're actually gonna start from the center going in both directions so that our stud bays are perfectly symmetrical with the door and then we don't have to get into too much creative framing and then it'll make it easier to nail the skin on afterwards so we're gonna go with this particular shed we're going to use a traditional barn door style so we're gonna make a nice 32 inch opening with a 34 inch door so what I want to do is first I want to take this measurement I'm gonna get this out of the way and these are 10-foot pieces of lumber this is stock so we can just go mark our five foot as our center line yeah that's a little rough and sloppy okay we're gonna get our square here okay there's our centerline no 32 inch door right that's see ninjas we put that on their centerline and we're gonna Merc there and we're gonna mark 32 okay and we'll take our square and we'll translate that number across and we'll put the X which is where the lumber will go so that will represent the finished hole because we're actually nailing on a wood panel as a skin we don't need to double up on the studs here because it's not a hinge so we just go with one stud okay and then we're gonna say this is the rest of our space now we're gonna measure 16 inches this way all right now if we go here and here that would represent a window that leaves me with 12 inches on the other side but for me the window is a little bit too far to the right I would rather have a twelve inch gap here and a sixteen over here so I start there measuring 16 okay and then 32 and this will be my window okay that I think will look a lot better we'll do the same on the other side so outside coming in 16 and then 32 and then we'll mark the outside of that for the studs and that'll be my window placement so now you can see we have the center of our wall for our door frame to here there'll be a section of wall and then our window and because we measured from the outside on both sides everything on this is gonna be completely symmetrical again sometimes you just got to stop and think how is it gonna finish if you just go left to right the whole time you'll have windows stagger it off to the side and they look stupid so sometimes when doing features like this it's easier to measure from the middle going out anyway because we're gonna go with an eight-foot wall which is the size of our board which is dictating our design top plate bottom plate in the next plate often eight-foot stick I'm taking four inches off that'll leave me a little bit extra gap and that's fine man is it ever hot today I'll tell you we sure don't get that dry heat to get down on the south around here around here it's always that kind of heat that just makes you sweat just by opening up your eyes [Music] all right it's over a hundred degrees right now so I've got ten football section here and I have I have it set up where this wall is gonna go inside the into this so the skin if it's flush there comes through the corner here perfect right so what I'm doing it cuz I am basically setting this up eyeball so I'll put the two big pieces on and then I'm gonna try to line up the header of the door and see if I can arrange this somehow where everything is gonna work out perfect we'll see cuz I hate putting the skin all the way over the whole door and then cutting it all out that's almost perfect Wow what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna pull this out on the lawn I'm going to nail this piece on to square off the wall I'm gonna use this as my measuring template and then line this up so that the lines are in the right spot then I'll nail this one down and then I'll cut this one to install in the gap and then it'll be beautiful we're gonna just set this where it goes leave a little room there we want to just get this where it's supposed to go and have these grooves lined up here we go so we've got all this cut and installed it's gonna look really pretty I'm gonna cut this much here I want to create the overlap effect so I'm gonna actually try to cut this back a little bit so that when I when I break this off I'm gonna have a little bit of the under backside of this to go underneath this edge so I didn't bury that nail I don't need a whole lot just a little bit you see what I mean just enough to get that look that'll be perfect yeah my mark here so I'm gonna put my zero line on it all right I'm gonna place my finger beside the board we're gonna do the rip and I've pulled this up with six inches off the edge of the board and I put my zero on my mark set the end down and put my fingers I'm gonna hold the plate and to come back here use my fingers as the guy honey so let's put this panel in first time to go to last wall in place that's not gonna go away all right there we go one more screw just said this thing doesn't fall down I love how that pulls everything nice and tight together done okay crew it's been a busy day it's a hot day but we got our walls up we're just gonna have to get this squared get it attached to the concrete and then tomorrow we'll worry about the roof cuz I think I always looks like it's gonna rain typical when you order materials we had enough all right the the the dimensions here is at seven and a half feet deep and it's ten feet across the front and there was just enough of this material to finish this off except that panel over there is gonna be a door and I'd like to have it all in one piece instead of my leftovers because it will provide structural integrity for whatever framing I use for that door so in hindsight I should have left one of the panels on the back wall off and then I could have scabbed on the leftover pieces since it's not visible anyway because the front I'm headed in the back of my head I'll just use the leftovers on the front but because we measured from the center to get all the symmetry perfect I didn't want to have these lines messed up and so that's left me in this predicament so just advise for yourself yeah yeah it's nice to have all the skin on before you put the wall up but if you're gonna be doing this exact design keep at least one sheet off the back wall for the door area and then you can use your pieces on your back wall just a little tip for you so yours can be better than mine alright so now you can start to see this taking shape eight feet on the front seven on the back this will represent our roof structure we're gonna go with ten foot two by fours on a twelve inch center that'll transfer more than enough load back to each of these walls and then we'll be able to cap all that in the and some pressure-treated santa Brownwood so it'll have a finished wood exterior framing that whole roof line and be really cool but you get an idea we're gonna have a little bit of cut off here alright and then where it's shy it doesn't matter because we're gonna be framing in like a picture frame new england-style one by four trims and that's gonna be amazing so all in all you can start to see how this design is going to work out we're gonna have the roof extend about four inches on this side and almost two feet on the other side so we have an outdoor covered area you can put things outside you know storage firewood that sort of thing yeah really liking where this is coming together very versatile very quick very cheap okay so the last part of our framing of the shed is actually to square it off and then get it attached to the concrete and there's important there are a lot of areas around the world where it gets quite windy and so you don't want to just set your shed in the background or put it on a floating floor I mean if you want to put it on a floating deck that's fine but check your building codes and make sure it's allowed we're actually going to be attaching it to the concrete pour just as an added protection so that we don't have damage from wind and really it's not that hard to do since we squared off the pad we just put these in here right try in both directions make sure it's at least a nice decent regularly snug fit I checked all the corners already did a couple of Wiggles now we're ready to go and so we're gonna go through a couple of options here that we have one of course it's the same system we use in basements in a lot of cases both of these options are available one of them is just a hammer drill and tap chrome screws and the comes in the package with the Phillips screw just remember the reason we build our walls with the plates fully intact even though we have door areas is because after we've attached everything to the ground then we'll cut out the plates this helps to make sure that everything is level and plumb and square before we cut holes for our doors so the doors install quite easily so don't go doing that rookie mistake and drilling in where the doors gonna be go to the stud just next to the edge of the door and then we can drill it in now this Dewalt is amazing it has an impact hammer drill on it and a high speed and I just set this right in there said it makes a bit of noise don't be afraid to use your mere protection here now you'll notice the best way to use tapcon is apply pressure and go all the way in until it's completely buried you want the hole as deep as your screw very important and if you start cleaning it out as you go you'll actually make the hole too big because this is all vibrating down there and the tip here is just gonna make a mess of the hole you want to have to force that screw in there if you're not forcing your screw in it's not really grabbing and it's not gonna do the job you want it to do the other option there's a little bit more fun for all your gun enthusiasts out there 22-caliber explosive hammer I like using the number fours it's because they make a nice big bang being from Canada we don't get to use too many explosives and that sort of thing so it's kind of fun for us to get an excuse to use our hammer now this one's the trigger not the old-fashioned one you had to hit with a hammer and you always broke your wrist with it make sure before you put the nail in there's nothing no explosive charge in the chamber you just put that in there up to the orange why am i holding a nail put your little bullet in there all right and then before you go getting crazy this one you definitely want to use hearing protection it's loud this is the first time I've had a chance to use this new toy with the trigger I've always had a semi-automatic or the single-shot so the directions say just to press it down push it as far as you can go then pull the trigger boom well that was easy I wonder how loud it is without the ear protection oh that's pretty loud I'm not gonna wear your protection I love this new trigger I mean it only takes about oh no maybe 15 pounds 20 pounds of pressure to get down to the end of that and I mean that nail was buried in there really good gotta love my job fire in the hole I love my job alright well that concludes everything to deal with building the walls next time we come we'll focus on building our roof system now this is awesome no shingles necessary no sheetmetal you're gonna love it so if you've been following along in our video series for how to build a shed this would be a lot easier to understand and if you're just joining this because you're looking for information on a sloped roof I'll just go recap real quick what we've got is a simple box the back wall is shorter than the front wall so what we have is about a foot raised on the front higher than the back so we're going to build our roof completely out of two by fours now it's about an eight foot structure it's closer to seven and a half but we're gonna build a 10 foot roof so we have an overhang on the front just to help keep all of the door area free from wind and rain and snow and that sort of thing to help extend this life because we are going to put on a barn door it's not going to seal up as well as you know you would usually have it so with this extension you have the ability to make it bigger than the shed you can do an overhang on one side you can have it hang out the back more you can balance the middle it doesn't really matter because the basic design of this roof is one slope with a finished deck board trim on it you can go with pressure-treated or cedar and the idea is to keep it simple keep it cost-effective but most importantly to keep everything in the shed dry so I've developed the system it's really really really idiot-proof I use it all the time when I'm building my sheds because it nice and quick and you don't have to climb on the actual roof hardly at all in order to get it done so in order to get started we have to finish the process of the size okay because we have a slope so we're gonna use our 2x4 just as a marker up against our exterior wall board and I'm going to trace and cut it and then we're gonna be able to install our roof all right here we go no because we're gonna finish off all of our shed with trim boards we're not concerned if the the board isn't quite as high as the 2x4 and so I'm just gonna trace the top of that board get this out of my way I'm gonna keep in mind that because I'm working above my head with a saw my cut line is on zero I'm gonna cut about a quarter inch below that black mark just so that when I'm putting the roof up I'm not pulling the sides off the wall by accident I don't want it to close I want a lots of room here you're gonna set the depth of our blade so we're not cutting too deep and we're gonna line this up pull the guard forward activate our safety squints and off we go so now we have the slope of our roof all figured out not going to be a concern just to take note when you're building your structure and you're going with a roof like this it's going to carry a little bit of load if you have wintertime so we're actually putting our our joists here every 10 a 10 to 12 inches on center okay I think here we'll go with 12 it should be plenty over eight-foot it should pick up enough flow it won't be an issue if you find it a little bit soft all you have to do when you're done is I have one more board underneath and screw it to all the joists so that we're out of where you step you're transferring the load to the entire structure that's the simple engineering trick we use when we're adding too much weight to a living room or something anyone is getting a grand piano installed we always add a couple of floor joists supports underneath next we add double up the plates on both sides so then any weight is going to come from these joists no matter where they land and it can be transferred through double thick into these studs of course run a concrete base here so everything is gonna be good it's way overkill all right but when you can do something overkill simple and cheap you'd do it so the best way to design a roof is that all of the ends of the roof are perpendicular to the ground aesthetically is pleasing it looks really nice but now you're dealing with tricky angles so if you don't have the kind of chop saw and a special equipment to measure and transfer all those angles that's okay I'm going to show you a simple little trick that you can get your angles perfect and all you need is a skill saw what we want to do here is we just want to measure from the ground to the top of our plate on both sides say T for the quarter this one is 96 in there we're gonna just write that down on a scrap piece real quick before we forget now we're gonna take that we're gonna do the math on it okay 84 in a corner offer that so that leaves me with a corner and 80 I have twelve and a quarter difference in height I'm gonna take that information and I'm going to my trick so I'm gonna just show you real quick some basics of grade 8 math if you can remember all of this you're gonna be awesome if this is square remember put a little square in the corners all right that means this angle is the same as this one now if I go like this and I draw this line which is gonna be my roof okay and I count that is zero since this is square that's zero the distance from here to here if I translate it here okay I draw that line now this angle is exactly the same as this angle simple right because it's like a parallelogram so what we're gonna do is we're gonna take that difference that we have we measure it out of twelve and a quarter and I'm going to flip this mark here twelve and a quarter sorry that's my spot I'm gonna drive a nail in there all right okay so now I've got my nail there and I'm gonna put and the only reason this works is because we started level remember we installed our pad level so I can actually put this 2x4 on the corner back there well if it's curved the right way and there's my angle now that that's established my angle I'm going to just trace this on to my wood holding the markers flat against the board okay there's my angle we're done with all this now now what I have to do is I have to cut this so that I can invert it I put that angle on my two by fours we're gonna cut this off just by using the guide following this straight line on the saw now remember if you're out an eighth of a degree on this [Music] Mama's gonna see that from my house here we go so now I have my angle I'm gonna take this and flip it over and put it to the top corner of all my two by fours measure mark it and cut it and then I'm gonna have my entire rafter package cut to the exactly the same degree before I put it up that enables me to put my end plate on build the base of the structure with three or four sticks that's something I can carry I can lift it up onto the roof and then I can go back and put all the rest of the rafters in later [Music] alright let's just get a quick recap so we're all on the same page here we've got a 8 foot deep structure by 10 feet long and we're gonna make our roof 10 feet deep and 12 feet long one of the ways we're gonna do that is we're gonna set the structure up the roof we're going to just do like a side frame something small and simple that we can lift up into place and then we'll finish off all of the rafter framing once we have the box up there remember because we're going 12 feet we're gonna have an overhang let's say this represents the outside of the structure the last couple feet we want to support it with boards going this way so the weight can be transferred into the outside wall of the building and it'll be cantilevered because this side will be down with the plywood and it'll kind of do the job and if you find that it's not enough you can always add a support post but for what we're gonna do today we're just gonna do a quick little cantilever system hopefully that's enough maybe in the winter time might have to get the old snow break out and pull that clean but not a big deal so what we're gonna do is we're gonna just start marking this off we got our front and our rear so when we're building a roof it's very similar to the wall all right what we have is we have both plates but since it's a roof we'll call them rim joists and we're gonna just take out our tape and we're gonna measure like I said every 12 inches now if you want to go every 16 and you're strong enough that you can lift a 2 by 6 frame up into the roof for those 9 feet in the air you go ahead and knock yourself out but I'm getting old and I like to play a little on the safe side and I would rather install a few more rafters later and have a much lighter box putting up into place so we're just gonna mark all the twelves and on my tape I have little black boxes instead of red boxes for the twelves makes my life really simple 9 and there's 10 now 10 is interesting this represents the last rafter that we're gonna put in this direction and then after that we're gonna do our overhang okay so this is my box 9 8 so that's the mout side of the building this is the left last rafter I'm going to put on I'm gonna build this ladder section and lift it into place later so what I need is I want the establish the outside one that one okay this one on the outside and then put this one let's skip a couple here so what I'm doing is I'm building a box or six pieces of wood with the intention of lifting this box off transporting it over here and then putting it up on the roof I'm comfortable with six two by fours that's not gonna be too much weight for me if I do the whole thing first it might be a little bit too much than too awkward and I really just don't want to risk an injury so what I'm gonna do okay so let's take this one put this plate down here now we're just gonna tack this together real quick just two screws just like you're framing a wall remember these are angled so just make sure you pay enough attention that all your angles are going in the same direction that'll be really important when it comes time to put the sheathing on she then comes an 8-foot links and so one thing we want to make sure of is that if you change from 16 inch centers to something smaller to get more strength go to 12 so at least the math works when you're putting your roofing system on and you weren't gonna run into any difficulty there this way I can stagger my joints knowing that wherever I start I'm going to end up in a good situation so just a little for something when you're working like this keep in mind we're going to be putting a sheet of plywood on here so consider the plywood when your screen is down use a little block like this and force it flat from the top the rest of this overhang will be over the middle of nowhere and that is what you're looking for so my system for this is simple I'll line this all up start my screws and then I'll bring the block over and I'll use a force it down or lift this one up into position so that when they go to install my plywood everything is nice and flush yeah so we're going to show you a little secret now if you're stuck doing this on your own yes you can do this on your own installing a roof has never been as easy as this what we're gonna do is now if you can imagine we're having this box frame like a wall and it's taller than the front wall right it's a full 10 feet and this is only an 8 foot and change wall so when we bring this over it's gonna stand here like this now if you can see at the very top which will be difficult in the Sun but our finished board is about 1/2 inch below our top plate so I can actually run stuff up I can push that wall all the way up and then it should be able to lever into position alright this is the system I'm gonna lift this up and then let go and it'll all inside the box now the way I'm gonna do this so that it doesn't just collapse and fall apart because I want to have something that will carry the weight as it collapses so I can then slide it to the back because I'm going to use this 2x4 and I'm gonna set it on my plate take my drill I'm gonna screw it to the bottom side of this plate temporarily to help carry the load and this is gonna be my second pair of hands so because I'm short I put my screws in first now each screw will carry 80 pounds that's 160 pounds that's more than enough for six two by fours if we do this under control I remember if it's not under control I can't really reach this all that well but now this is a little note I am 510 and a bit a healthy bit I like to call myself 511 but if you're a little short and using this in actual dimensions you can't quite reach that or you don't have this long bit by one of these this is awesome this is an extender it's designed for the quick lock system on these bits and on the drills okay pop done now I got myself a two-foot drill bit I could have the mini-me version and screw this is brilliant no I intentionally set these two rafters close together so I could kind of somewhat hold all the weight in a convenient location that's pretty much where my roof is gonna go we'll try to get it somewhat in position here all right now I'm looking for a boat uh about a two inch overhang on that wall I'm gonna have my face board as well I'm just trying to create a situation where I'm gonna have aesthetically I want to have two roof just a little bit wider than the pad itself over here I just think it's gonna look good I want to add trim boards I want to have a little bit of depth there so not quite that much that works nice I like the by hi there and here I've got a nice distance away from the fence that's good now let's see if this makes any sense he's gonna want to run away on me a little bit we got in the middle which is what this board is this represents my middle we're just gonna slide this up and then just yeah I feel like I'm from letting go it's gonna fall so I'm gonna be a little bit taller here control that drop okay yeah we don't need to have a whole lot of distance in the back just a couple of inches and now that I've got that in place give or take yeah now it's time to get rid of this temporary support they get real hot the metal expands it doesn't wanna come off the drill alright now we want to do here just slide this back out of the way now alright really what we want to do is we want to square this off now get it in the position that we really want to have it in there's a couple of different ways to do this but what we're gonna do is we're going to start in the back order and I'm just gonna put a little block on top of the plate slide it over a little bit get it where I want and then screw it all together from two directions so that one corner is fixed and then we can get moving forward to do this properly we want to block this really tiny 8 inches less than 10 anyway now remember our overhang that we're trying to build out here we have the two by fours inch and a half we have a wall board material so we want another half an inch that gives me the actual inch and a half my trim boards a 3/4 and as long as my trim board is gonna be inside so that my 1 by 6 covers over top of it I'm fine with that I wanted to have it a little tight but not too tight so I'm gonna go 2 inches from the outside wall to the outside of this you can set your depth there which we will remove this plate later this is a temporary block and we're gonna screw one screw from the outside and the other thing is we want to set a depth from this corner okay so let's go with 7-inch the way we know we can do things for congestion I'll just write that down okay that is currently 7 inches away all right now let's just confirm that we did that somewhat improperly perfect 7 inch now our corners fixed whoo let's go do the front same to the front now okay so here we are once again we're gonna just set this up so we're gonna set this little block here and the reason I'm using to this is to help keep it square this one here now what are the benefits of building everything's square from the very beginning is if it's square on the bottom and the corners are tight and it's all screwed together it's square at the top so when you're doing your squaring of the roof you don't have to pull it out the square and do the 3 4 5 6 rule just line up everything to be the same depth off the top of the wall and you know it's gonna be square now now to get the whole rest of this Wow square we're gonna do tighten that down first my goodness not sure how that happened remember I wrote down seven inches on the other side that's from here to here and this is gonna go out there that's seven you know wiggle things around until it's it's perfect I like it there we go so first thing we're gonna do screw down this block Oh double-check that cuz there was some movement yep come over and I'm out of quarter-inch okay now a little a big boy and I know what a quarter-inch looks like so when I do this I'm just gonna block quarter-inch and then tie it down again remember one of the reasons why this system works great is because the roof overhangs on all four sides so even if you're a little bit out of square it's not the end of the world it will not affect anything especially visually you got to be at least an inch out of square before you're going to see that from 6 feet away let alone from down the street there we go all we're gonna do is tighten this up something temporary ok now my roof isn't going anywhere I love it time to add the rest of the rafters and so I cut a bunch I'm just gonna guesstimate get them all into position for now okay so right out of the gate did this only took us a couple of minutes and you can see the difference between the roof that we're building here the whole structure that we're building here versus something you buy prefab from the building store remember they're charging you 1500 bucks or more for the same sized space that's not as tall and you can't actually put anything on the walls you have to install shelving everywhere because there's no integrity in those structures lord knows there's a large part of the states that it's too much wind there's no way you didn't even get allowed to install one of those and don't forget that $1500 cost you still have to put some sort of base down I also just do it all yourself get it done do it strong you can even hang a heavy bag in here my god this is gonna be strong alright now remember this roof is just resting on top I have two screws holding it in position three sorry so it's not sliding around that's plenty there's not a whole lot of force on the roof in this situation I remember my goal here is just to make sure that I'm all tucked together every 12 inches so that my sheet goods are gonna have a no problem solid they've already got all my marks made while I was on the ground this goes really quick it's a lot easier if you install all your screws first then you get hold Jim what nice and level top of this angle beam on the top of the front drive them screws in number at the end of the day doesn't really matter how perfect this is we're gonna be putting a plywood sheet good and then an asphalt roof but we're gonna use a 1 by 6 plate to cover all this so that your finished look is gonna be just the 1 by 6 oh you're gonna see which is why this design is so awesome for homeowners anyone can do a DIY and have a little bit of here and there and give or take it doesn't have to be perfect as long as you've got good fasteners and then a really nice cover cover all your mistakes of course being a little OCD doesn't hurt the friends all done now we got to do the back so if you can watch me for anything like the time you having a good idea that I'm a visual person so I like to explain things to people who are also learning from visually right so what we're gonna have is a ladder which is exactly like it sounds it's a bunch of boards this way okay this is gonna be framed of both ends and it's gonna come into here alright and come across this way and extend out the other side so I've set this in position real temporarily okay to mimic the same angle is the rest of the rafters I'm gonna put my finger on method marker alright and this gives me a mark of the slope how about that on three quarters to one inch below that board and here's the reason why we're going to be having a trim board on the other side what the same size is this so this is a board is a little bit shorter than the ceiling it doesn't matter okay better to have a little extra room than not enough and now that we got that marked we'll get this temporary board out of the way and we'll cut that down so that we are gonna have anything in the way when we go to lift our ladder so one of these days I'm gonna do a video on the list of tools a homeowner has tuned on that list is gonna be one of these bad boys and it doesn't necessarily have to be this brand I just happen to own it folks they're about a hundred bucks and this is reciprocate er bud goes in and out really easy really easy to use in a lot of situations especially something like this no I could go to the other side I could trace it from the other side and I could use the skills but the reality is when you're on a ladder having a seven inch blade spinning around real fast can be a little dangerous especially it kicks back so this tool here it doesn't kick back if the blade gets stuck the handle just goes in and out and the blade doesn't move it doesn't throw you off a ladder so if you're on a ladder this is the kind of situation it's a little slower it's a lot safer and because it's so versatile something everybody needs in their toolbox the secret to use it it's just press up against the material you're cutting and let the saw blade move instead of the saw balance here [Applause] Wow thank God for my safety squint alright so the simplest way to build this extension is to build it inside of the 12-foot rim rafters that we have okay we'll call that for the lack of a better phrase so all we have to do is just measure from the top of here which is the short side all right all the way over to the far side on the other end which is the short side now the easiest way to do this is to just trace it out on another board because we have our template for our angle and measure it on the ground alright we're gonna take that length and we're gonna take the width that we have here which should be pretty easy because this was installed at 10 feet yeah forty seven and a half let me try that one more time you know working alone isn't always the easiest way to do something forty seven and a quarter we're gonna write this down one of the greatest things about building a shed is everywhere you go just like a notebook so just to go over this real quick so you can see this in your brains we have a roof it's 12 feet long on each end alright we've got our rafters that are all cut using the jig that we made and they're all exactly the same angle and cut up until the eight-foot mark of the shed the shed is 10 feet long so we're doing is we're putting one more rafter right here laminated up to this one plus one at the end flush from the outside of the 12-foot and we're gonna add a bunch of boards cut this way and then we're gonna back frame the slope or the edge of that to help carry the load all right makes sense so what we needed to do is just make two more rafters the same as the rest that's easy we actually cut them a hair shy just to make it easy to stick in and then we're gonna take the total outside dimension which I believe was four seven and a quarter - this and this rafter which is three-inch so we have 47 in the quarter - three forty four and a quarter we're going to cut a bunch of 44 into quarter stick straight and we'll do those sixteen inch on center and off we go to the races one two three four five six seven eight nine I need nine pieces we've got two rafters cut exactly the same - a hair make the installation easy we're gonna Center the 16s the reason for that is when we sell their plywood for the roof we're gonna start flush at the top so yeah good point ah our top has a plate so let's do it this way let's measure from the top of the plate and Center our sixteenths all right that way we'll actually have wood on the joint when we install our sheet goods here we go and of course we want to get one of these tape measures with little red squares that highlights the 16s it makes it so much easier it's really quite amazing when you think about it up until this point we built this entire structure with a skill saw a drill and a reciprocate er very cool [Music] so one of the things you need when you're doing this is a second bare hands so if you're installing a loan I'm basically building a track for this to slide into one of the beautiful things about screws is you can always remove them so what I've done is I'm putting this out because my ladder is exactly the inner dimensions of this existing framework so if I put it up on the regular part of the roof because it's framed the opposite direction then I can slide it over drop it on to these brackets slide it in along these brackets right into place and I can do it from up top without the risk of it following on my head this would be fun okay pass the midpoint tada I'm pretty sure I can just slide this into position from inside here pull it down first that's awesome okay so here's my ladder we're about to slide it into position the only thing that sent away is our temporary block holding everything square so before I move that over here we're going to drive a screw into the top plate from the rafters just to hold everything in position while we temporarily put all those together and be careful they get hot when you pull a little too quick hurry with a fresh charge drill I'll tell you save every screw you've ever had done the math they're both 30 cents apiece that's not we're throwing in the garbage all right watch your fingers nice perfect I don't know if I'm a genius max but you know what red/green used to say if they don't find you're handsome they better find you handy that's the Canadian way it's just a matter of eliminating the plates together whenever you tighten everything together just squares everyone else just brilliant don't get rid of these temporary bucks the next thing we want to do is create a permanent brace here to help transfer the load now that everything is in position and we can assume it's hanging just a little bit lower than it wants to be all right we're gonna go with the 2x4 on the flat to the underside and then we can measure and cut perfectly because we have the template for the angle which is gonna be awesome ly easy and here's what I mean let's just get this first well cut that 78 inches and I'll be right back there we go I have this cut for the length of my myspace on the angle and it's gonna be perfect fit there okay and I don't worry if it's a tight fit here because what I'm gonna do is I'm going to cut measure from here to here cut with that angle and then I'm gonna put the block in place and I'm gonna hammer that block in place a little bit until I know it's taking up some load until it's lifting up the roof a little bit and then I'll know it's perfect but for now we'll just throw a few screws in places we get some measurements obviously you want to have these verticals supports underneath these sticks here to transfer the load so we're gonna call that one ten and a quarter I'm just going to write this down call it ten two quarter all right and you can see how close they are to these we're gonna go seven and three-quarters five and a quarter and this one isn't gonna count we're just gonna take any block and wedge it in we can we can use all these scraps for this ten and a quarter okay always measure from a factory edge case your measurement was lousy some in three quarters five in the corner yes here we go I wrote the word template on it so don't lose it in the wood pile and so what I want is I want to put that angle on that block get those nice and flush so what I'm doing is I'm visually lining up the blade with my mark and the plate with the wood I want to get it relatively close lock it in place okay and then I can spin this around and cut it perfect [Applause] [Music] now we are dealing with load transfer here but not rocket science closest fine in this situation so here's our first 2x4 it hit I'm just gonna tap this in until it's contact here and there nice and tight there we go supports done there's that one that's pretty darn close alright so just make sure we're nice and flush here now the best thing about load transfer is all you need this fastener to do is hold it in place make sure that you jammed it in there so it's picking up some load as long as it's lifting you're good put a screw on an angle and it'll drive it towards it and actually help pick up the weight it's funny because in the engineering world any any any subflooring system that's within 12 inches of a structural point actually they'll allow another point load wall within 12 inches of another point load wall so if you're off a little bit it doesn't matter I know I'm gonna get commentary that's not perfectly lined up I'm like yeah well it doesn't matter as long as you're within a couple of inches of where the load transfers you're going to be just fine let's not get our knickers in a knot over details because the simplicity of the system is annoying now you can transfer load even without it being perfect mess and that is why I love the system because anybody can build this so before we put our sheathing on realize that this is the edge of my roof and I'm adding this board flush to the outside of this rim and extend it up so when I slide my sheathing down it's nice and tight and you'll see it'll just come right here and that'll be where it stops then all I have to do is square it off on the outside corner and I can nail it in place problem-solve one man job now there's an easy way and a hard way to do this the hard way is to walk up while you're carrying it easy way staying in the middle put your plywood on the ladder put a nice wide grip and just lay on the ladder keep your center of gravity nice and low we just stand on our ladder and slide it in there we go okay there we go now my roofing system is going to have a perimeter board here it's a five and a half inch board on a 2x4 and plywood so it'll stick up a little bit above the top and a little bit below the bottom and that will help this your everything's nice and weatherproof and all I got to do now is my building is square it's go nice and flush the outside edge here - maybe 16 now I'm gonna be using these two and a half inch spiral nails 5/8 plywood you're probably fine with a two-inch but there's such a small nail it just doesn't seem to me to have enough girth to it to hold things together in a strong wind so now it's okay to just put a few nails in to get started don't nail right near the tongue because the next piece of plywood will fit over top of this joint and it doesn't always fit perfectly so if your nail too close to the edge and make it very difficult to Snug that together so start about a foot and a half away just get a few nails in and then we're gonna be in good shape I think it's always a great idea to take a moment mark the middle of your stud why not now we know we did 12 inch on center but having a couple of marks here will make it easier once they get up on top okay so you can see that because we made everything a 12 inch on center this actually finishes in the middle of one of my stringers which is awesome so now all we have to do is measure to cut from the outside to the plywood now in a perfect world that would be exactly 48 if we've measured this correctly 48 perfect okay so a great system for cutting plywood is just measure out your mark use your black marker drywall square if you haven't got one of these 20 bucks you're gonna renovate or be a DIY or this is good for any kind of sheet good to make your life easy so the best way to do this just set it up on a big plywood on a 2x4 here and then your sit on this side and put your cut line on the opposite side sticking up in the air set the depth of your blade so it's not too deep now you're not cutting through the dirt money in the back okay so it's cut I cut this side this is my factory edge you always want to make sure you measure and cut factory edge will be touching factory edge this just helps with the installation and the way you get this up there is like the caber toss there you go now this one's also four feet which means it can start my next room no I can go up there and get working before you get started make sure you nail down the other side of the seat so you keep it all nice and square and that's it questionable in the nail every 12 to 16 inches just gonna use my marker real quick and measure off where all these twelve inches are I know because of that there's wood here yep we're gonna start the next row with the cut off from that part of the sheet of course it's four feet so it should end up pretty much in the middle of this let's get that in the position here on this side see how we're doing looks like we're running a little bit long this is a perfect example we're dealing with wood so this wood is gonna be moving around right see that flexibility they may not line up where you wanted to right out of the gate but here's a way to make that fit I set this up I'm gonna push this board over there we go no that's where I want it to be yeah one of the advantages or disadvantages that we're working with here is that this product has been out in the rain for I don't know I'm with almost two weeks Maxie I mean I had my bee sting you got your head you're dog attack we've had rain rain rain okay just want to lift that nail a little bit so we can slide this in a little easier okay I've got this corner in there nice that's where I want it nail that in position then I can fight with this side don't have to be perfect I think it's probably close this is gonna get a the reason this is a great DIY project is because this design doesn't require perfection requires you to get close the goal of the roof is to keep the water off of everything inside the shed so as long as you use that as your guiding principle you'll be fine if your angles are up a little bit here and there huh the other way you can do this which costs you a lot more materials you can overhang your plywood and then snap a chalk line and then cut it off after you've installed it that's one way to do it as well but in this design it's already going to take us five sheets of plywood to complete so I didn't want to have to go in by seven that just seems like a whole lot of wasted money but if you wanted to have that flexibility to make sure everything is exactly perfect then that's fine you know what it's gonna cost you swollen tongue and groove marks they're just not always gonna work out for you and that is not a big concern this roof is just as strong whether these joints are fit really tight or not because they're twelve inch on center so don't let it get too much of a concern for you the biggest concern here is getting it enough fasteners to hold it all in place if you find that you don't have enough meat in the 2x4 on the joint or it's just a little off-center feel free to take another piece come in from underneath nail them all together and then nail the top down that's another great way to make sure that everything's got lots of contact and it's structurally sound poof so like I said there are two ways to do your sheathing I mean we can always measure here and we can add a few inches you can stall the piece and then chalk line and cut it off something about me sitting on that overhang cutting plywood is not that exciting to me my my building ends here alright so when I'm working up here I want to be kneeling on my building and just leaning forward and not putting too much on this I don't make crawling out there with a Skilsaw and I don't want to do it off a ladder so I'm gonna measure instead from the beginning so I've got 27 inches to the middle of the tongue and that's 27 inches it's a little bit too much so we're gonna cut it 26 and 7/8 I'm gonna write that down before I forget alright and I'm gonna check the other side and get that measurement as well we'll start with a full sheet so what we don't have a seam here meeting another seam I'd like to square more than a chalk line when I'm working alone it's just a hell of a lot easier to operate [Music] [Music] so I know that this is not a traditional installation of a roofing system I know a lot of guys they just use a 16 inch span they're using little roofing clips on the sides I like to install this this way because it's a lot like a subfloor system and I think the average home want to be able to capable of doing that without any difficulty and without risking life and limb up on a roof so this works really well as long as you're on plywood you know you're not going to fall through the roof so if you have any comments about the roofing system we used except the deck up if I always throw them in there happy to have a discussion and if you've got an easier system that people can use then let us know we were all about getting smarter on this channel so I'm still learning and I'd be happy to share your tips and tricks and help everybody grow okay so now we're on the roof ready to put our roofing system in which is incredibly simple because we only have one slope and when you're dealing with a shed the goal is to keep the water out of the structure so when we have an overhang on all four sides we don't have to worry about if the edge of the roof is sealed up really incredibly water tightening now it's nice to have it tight so that you don't have water in there and it freezes and pulls things apart but the reality of it is if it's not a waterproof roof on the edges you're fine as long as the main body of this roof to flex all the water off the back side so remember your water your roof system is not a waterproofing system it's a water deflection system it diverts water from one place to another that's all it does so in freezing environments water always finds a way to move around and a little bit of moisture in a shed is never gonna cause you any major issues so in my building store these flashes come pre bent and available in touch foot length which means that a little bit short for the roof so I've got two pieces then I cut one down to the bow three feet and started at the other edge and now I'm gonna go flush here keep everything snug up against the edge okay oh now that that's done it's time to put down remembering so the system here is relatively simple we're gonna just slide it over to the edge and visually we're looking for about enough that can go over the edge and then just pass the the 2x4 that's there so feel free to be a little liberal this stuff comes in the rule the rule that you buy is gonna do probably two sheds this size so don't be too concerned about it if you're gonna have enough material just roll it back on yourself so you have this overhang that's the edge had six inches and then cut this is just an asphalt membrane there you go that's one and we're gonna cut and measure these a few times get them out cut in advance and then it'll make your roof a lot safer to work on once you have your membrane cut just uh roll it up now let's walk around on this that you do while it has the plastic the better there's always a chance to get slip you don't want to end up at the bottom of the ground so the water diversion system is gonna work simple these are like massive rolled up shingles okay they don't have the longest lifespan so if you want it to last a really long time you could always cover this up with shingles or go with two layers of this membrane or just come back every five to ten years and see how it's doing remember since this is a shed and there's no heat source inside this building you're not causing a lot of trauma to this material especially if you're not up you're walking out on a regular basis so just keep an eye on you know occasionally check to see how things are working out and if you have to go and do any touch up sometimes the best thing to do is just put another layer of this membrane down right over top of the old one and just cut it to fit but you'll see this plastic here it's set up like at our back it's very sticky so you want the membrane to finish over the second ridge okay it's kind of like a guide for you so what we're gonna do we're gonna slide our membrane into place so that we see about an inch of our metal exposed okay and then we're gonna go like this we're gonna fold it back in place so that we can expose this whole plastic be sure to be standing on the membrane while you're doing this okay so that nothing is sliding away and then slowly pull that back into place all the way along okay it's a self-adhesive so you just step it into place and that'll bond to the metal and a warm summer day like this in about five seconds to finish now we're going to fold this side back okay and do the same thing yeah just gonna poke it like this get the membrane stretched out all right and then you can just use it for the slide up into place here we go simple shed roofing 101 so one of the reasons this membrane works so well is it soft and pliable in the heat so we obviously can't continue until we move our ladder so we're gonna do is since we're gonna finish this roof with the pressure treated one by six anyway we're gonna just fold this over for ladder protection and demonstrate that's what the finished roof would look like when we're all done put it in place now we can get up and down without damaging our roof all right next roll same thing we're going to overlap like a shingle we're gonna use that two inches as our guide and okay four inches on the edge again and we just roll it out do the same thing again let's get it in position and then we'll fold it back take out the plastic just like the last time so sticky nice and gentle when you're pulling this off try to stay close to the ground you look like that you'll pull the whole thing with you you might cause it to get caught and stick together feet nice and low we can go a lot faster this way again it's the edge stand on your membrane and roll it into place and then just seal the toe to make a good seal that's it it's like Riverdance so when we're done really what you want to do is just fold down your sides and use a piece of tubing Florida just tap it on okay and then curl over your edges this is kind of like ironing your roof on it's kind of funny once you've got this installed take your block and install it past the corner nice and snug one screws fine and that's just so that when you're working alone you've got something to butt up against when you put your trim board on regardless of whether you're gonna have your roof where it's just a clean drop at the end or a gutter system you want to make this board longer than what you need because going too short will be ugly to look at so we're gonna just measure the full length we're gonna call it 1:26 that's a nice healthy extension past the corner and if we remember from earlier in the series we have the template this is the same angle that we're going to use at both ends of this board so we're gonna take our template and we're gonna mark our angle and then I'm gonna just finish that trace in that line and then cutting it that way now when you put the front face on it's a little off-center right so if you want to you can always sand down the corner a little bit but seeing as how it's way up there in the sky I don't think anybody's gonna notice I don't think it's an issue so what we're gonna do now is to take a couple of scrap pieces of wood attach it to the top of our board so it'll sit flush on the roof and then when we go to screw this in place but let's just lift it up by about a quarter inch or so and then I'll give us a nice overhang underneath the bottom of the roof and make it real easy to finish it all off here we go oh that's not acceptable I got a little bit of wood showing over here so we're gonna be trimming this roofing off anyway so I'm gonna take a good piece of this leftover and I earn that plea piece right there okay back to putting our finished piece on there we go that represents the height of my roof it's nice and flush on the top and then drive it nice and tight that's good that's better so here's our fascia metal and we're gonna use this to close up underneath our drip edge and of course the exposed part of the wood is two and a half inches so we're gonna measure from here here you can see the profile that'll be in contact with the bottom of our 2 by 4 Ridge plate and two and a half inches runs to the inside of this groove and that's where the metal overhang is now I know the metal overhang has got lots of room for us to slide up underneath it so we're gonna actually cut about an extra half an is longer alright and aluminum metal work it when your knife opens is actually pretty easy yeah roofing gunk all over my belay in here there we go so I'm eyeballing this because it's a rough cut that's getting installed underneath that's finished trim now you might think this is crazy free handing this but with a sharp blade you can actually take this decent amount of pressure and run a pretty straight line you know of course this part is sharp so if you slip you will slice your hand open so you might want to wear gloves here we go that's pretty easy you can actually see on the camera where the cut line is did you see the line okay put the 2x4 there secreting your own little mini bender okay for the neighbourhood of your cut all right this is DIY metal bending all right once you got that bad boy started I'll finish off without much difficulty and all that it's just off of a score of a knife all right it's already starting to look a little ridiculous in it here we go once it starts to go it goes real quick generally when you fold it over it'll just snap the metal right there hear all that crunching around yeah you got to just open it up the other way and that's metalworking 101 for installing this you could use roofing nails screw a date keep the doctor away they do sell soffit screws however these are tiny little set screws with the same kind of black head I'm a big fan of the screw just feel like it finishes things off a little bit cleaner from a distance you know the galvanized nail I can show a little ugly and these screws every couple feet is fine now you've got a completed water diversion system right we can go through this again but water lands on the high side of the roof and follows gravity which is the path of least resistance to come to this drip edge and if there's a lot of water it might run past the drip edge and there's a second edge here and then you've got the wood protected here my god what else do you want and lift now we're gonna be finishing off the shed with a trim board here okay you may want to do something different in your shed and bring the roof back a little bit I like the overhang I just personally like the idea of making sure stays away from my framing if you make it too close you might want to make your whole shout out of pressure-treated lumber because you're gonna get a little water getting in there on the driving rain when it's windy this works really well we can also install a little bit of soffit medicine material here after the fact if you really wanted to but I mean for a shed this is a bit better than a lot of homes well that's it for teaching you my roofing system hopefully you've enjoyed that it's a nice simple system you can put on just about any building next up is gonna be doors and windows so stay tuned for that we'll teach you how to install all of your doors and windows and all the tricks and tips for getting a good water seal and a really nice look this is a solid wood door it's not a laminated panel so it's good for exterior use and we have finished it off at the lovely gray stain and a few coats of polyurethane oil base good for exterior and we did all six sides all right we've really set this door up to perform well in the outdoors now we also have the overhang and we haven't hidden the our way our shed is laying shouldn't get too much exposure to the weather but always good to be a little bit more protected than necessary the other thing we have today is a couple of simple shed windows bump up a bomb this is about as simple as it gets folks I think these things are around 15 bucks all right they do not open they will not help you ventilate but if you need ventilation this shed design comes with two doors one on each side so you can always open those up to get a little cross breeze this is designed strictly for getting a little daylight in there so you can see what it is that's on your shelf when you're done also adds a little aesthetics but you can see that the window frame versus the flange there's a nice simple way you to cut the hole stick them in secure them done probably the simplest window installation we're ever going to do in our life so we're gonna pop two of those in today hopefully get them level and centered square looking pretty we're also gonna have to frame this door we're gonna reframe I'm gonna show you a little cheat for doing exterior door jams so stay with us we got a lot to go through and hopefully we get alright so there are basically two approaches to sticking in a window and it's all designed driven right one of them is you put your window where the top of the window casing which is what we're gonna call this for lack of a better word and the top of the door casing are all in a nice straight line now in a shed that leaves that window away the heck up here like that and if you want to go with that design that's fine you could what I would suggest is just put a nice long board temporarily attached across the top and do all your measurements from that but I like things simple and this is the shed so we're gonna stay simple and the way I'm going to measure these off is I'm going to just put on the ground this is roughly the center line and I'm going to just drill this [Music] yeah all right there we go so what I'm doing here is I'm just establishing my low point and I'll do the same thing on the other side all right there we go now we have the height of our windows established we have a rough idea where our centerline is now what we need to do is measure how big a hole we're actually cutting here so this window is actually 36 and a quarter top-to-bottom so we're gonna go like this 36 and we'll go 1/2 at the bottom of the hole just so we have a little flexibility to make sure they're balanced out there's the top of my window and I'll put a hole there as well cuz the idea here is I want to trace my hole from my window on the other side of the wall and then cut it from back there so I just want to get a couple of these holes to identify where my stopping lines are because as long as I'm on the outside I can't tell exactly where my centerline is this is just a rough to me for now okay there we go let's do the other side all right now the trick with these little windows here guys is the the outside flange it actually is just a little bit too big to fit inside this cavity but the inside of this flames will have no problem at all all right so what we want to do is we want to measure off and cut this line somewhat level somewhat because the goal here since I have a fully enjoying goal here is to cut the size of this window out and then put a piece of 2x4 pressure-treated lumber in slide it over lapping the outside board and then we'll stick the window in the hole it's not that much rocket science involved here because we have so much mercy I'm not even going to bother measuring I'm just gonna cut now because my window was actually twelve and a quarter and my gap is fourteen and a half I have call it two inches of extra space so yeah I'm gonna just do this that represents my one inch gap on each side 12 in the quarter so I'm gonna cut on the outside of those now I can't use a skill saw here unless I drill the four corners out then I can cut from the other side and that is what I'm going to do because using the reciprocate or in this situation really is frustrating and slow and tedious so let's drill our four corners now wow that is really noisy all right now I got my safety gear on time to get some work done wait a minute I can't see a damn thing with all this safety gear on I just having a little fun man we get enough safety trolls in the comments tell you what is this world coming to now I'm gonna just draw this line get old-fashioned way do [Applause] [Music] [Applause] now I just thought I'd point this out what I'm doing here is I'm lining it up I know everything's square and level that includes all these lines on the shed so I just start and I find a mark on my guard here that lines up for something they're pre-existing and then I just keep that line straight mix is really quite simple yeah that's a whole how we gonna do now is do the same thing with the other side [Music] a little violent but it worked yay oh now all I really want to do here folks is just check to see if they're about the same distance off the ground from the line that I cut and if it is then I'm in great shape six and a quarter I know I'm not gonna risk it here we go - to 276 in that quarter I don't have that millimeters for you but maybe one of these days I'll buy a new tape where I can have both measurements it might be more handy there's some of our viewers overseas I am just gonna cut a couple pieces of wood here we're at the bottom of the window is gonna go that'll assist me and sealing it up nice and tight I'm still using this technique I don't care what people say on the internet there's nothing that's not safe about this this does not kick back if you keep your blade square folks kickback happens when you twist the blade then it runs backwards never kicks back when you're keeping your square you know what and to be honest with you if you're concerned about kickback on a skill saw maybe you shouldn't be using the tool if you can't hold it and keep it from kicking back I wouldn't pick it up in the first place [Music] just wanted to go to real quick because it's a shed we don't have too much concern about a whole lot of thing is one of them being water penetration everything that we're doing as far as our finishing technique is going to get an exterior sealant and it's a polyurethane sealant which is gonna be bonding awesome with all the different wood products and plastic products we have here so that's why we're using it I'm already planning on using the polyurethane exterior sealant so I'm not thinking that is necessary to wrap everything this is not a new house I expect the last two three four hundred years I just want to get 40 years out of a decent shed so the window is front-heavy and it'll keep wanting to fall out on you so just push it into the one corner all the resistance up against that cut lumber it's not going anywhere thank God I made it inside before it fell on the ground now we're gonna just Center it in the hole because this is designed to be centered with this construction remember back when we frame the building we measured from the center of the of this wall to this stud so what I want to do is I'm gonna have this perfectly centered in this in this cavity and we'll do the same with the other window now to keep this from blue it around on us I just want to get one screw in here no it can't follow it even if it wants to yeah that's good enough for now the other thing we can do now we can pull it forward and drill it in there yeah and these three screws will keep this in place until we get our exterior sealant on once that sealants on this windows not going anywhere window number two good windows are done so the main door as we all know we changed our design to go from a barn door which you know sounded sexy in the beginning but let's face it the more we thought about what we realized it's not not very functional in high winds and wintertime with animals with everything it's just it's not gonna work so it's just the wrong choice for the shed so we actually have this framed as a 32 inch interior hole so that we could put a 34 or 36 door on the outside originally but we actually have an actual 32 inch door now so this hole is too small it doesn't allow for the operation and we need to have at least an eighth of an inch on each side in order to do that now half we had nailed this frame together we could mark on our plate take out our sledgehammer and just beat this over and those nails that were in there would actually Bend and allow that wood to pass over and then we could just tighten it down and be fine but we use screws so now I've got actually cut this plate out where the screws are and then reinstall a new plate of new studs so that works for me what I am gonna do is I'm gonna measure because I'm gonna use these studs over I'm gonna measure eight of an inch just gonna mark mark mark just a little bit to the side of where this stud is now okay here's what we're gonna do we're gonna cut these loose we're gonna install this stud so that this edge here is in line with that and then I'll put in a new pressure-treated 2x4 that'll double it up we'll reverse the the natural bow in the wood so it stays nice and straight and then we'll be able to install our door directly to that once we're done that will cut out the plate and we'll start hinge in our door so hopefully this goes really simple here we go and the way that you get the maximum amount of effect here is by pushing this plate up against the wood okay if your sawzall is loose then the blade will catch things and then your your machine will bounce back and forth the blade isn't moving but if you keep that's why there's such a big solid piece of steel if you keep that pressed against something and the blades doing all the work there we go generally screws they have a weaker shear strength than a nail so cutting off the top isn't necessary we should be able to just wiggle these back and forth and they'll break loose from the screws on top all right so we're gonna hammer the sheathing and what that does is it pulls the nail out and if you hit the sheathing just under the nail it'll put the sheathing back sliding against the nail on the shaft shaft of the nail sorry exposing the head and then you can just use the claw to pull it in so let's see if this works out here we go left and right and there we go and now we're gonna demonstrate the weakness of the screw in the shear strength we're gonna show you here I got my black marker now from that stud man today - and is perfect so here's the option that we have if this is the outside of my building all right and this represents my my door stud I have this stuff exposed all the time because I'm not gonna be installing a jamb system here that to me is just a whole lot of extra work and it's not necessary but if I have this stud and then I cut this board flush to that and then I have this if this was the other side of the shed just assume my pressure-treated is sitting a little proud here so it's flush then when I put on my casing I have weatherproof material on all sides and I'm not gonna have the sheathing exposed to the elements as they sneak in between the door during rainstorms and stuff so this is what we're gonna do we're actually going to cut the sheathing at this point all right and then install our jacks because this is the king this will be the jack of course it'll be longer I'll cut them fresh but we'll put our header pronounced and I've put our Jack's pronounced and then we will install our door on that I think we get a much better result I think I'm gonna make this mention in the video here if you're going to build the shed and you're gonna use this design as your blueprint and you're putting in the door like we are and you want to follow the system let's just map this out our doors 32 by 80 inches that means we want to have probably a half an inch at the ground so we can put in some sort of a sweeper so that takes it to 80 and a half and then you want a quarter inch until you're let's call it our jam that's eighty and three-quarters okay all right no 80 and 3/4 there is until your header okay so mark eighty and 3/4 that's the beginning of the header your header is gonna be inch and a half okay and so then that'll go all the way across your space and then afterwards we're gonna put a 1 by 3 pressure treated casing that we're gonna custom-make out of our deck boards and then that'll close the gap and get a nice seal on the top so if you're making this at home just remind yourself 83 any quarters the door hole okay and then you're gonna have a 2 by 4 header and then we're gonna use the trim they get up contact with the surface and then seal it with they're probably you're think that'll give us a pretty good 40 year door all right now no cutting no I'll take a little off there it's not gonna hurt one of the beautiful things about a nice new sawzall blade is that it's nice and sharp on the tip if it gets bent while you're using it just use the claw of a hammer straighten it I was what we're gonna do is we're just going to rest it here and you'll see the extension that it goes out and comes back in is about an inch and a half so if you're gonna plunge cut which is what this is be careful don't start at the corner you might go too high and then you'll have a nasty mess outside it's easier to start somewhere where it's comfortable where you can see and then we can cut down and then cut back up okay that's crazy the other technique is user skill saw set the depth on your blade to that of your material plus a little bit don't list it doesn't matter if you cut into your stud a little bit here that'll be fine and then like I said since this is all pretty much square and level and we're gonna be going with the casing we can mark this where our cut is so I'm just putting that black mark on the saw there so it's easier to see pull back the guard set my black mark on my material [Music] well that's a lot easier [Music] [Music] [Music] huh well that worked doesn't seem like the greatest technique if you got better idea let me know now it's time to cut the plate out this was great when we were building her said keeping everything square and level but now that it's been attached to the concrete we don't need the plate anymore tada and the answer to the question no I can't use that plate as the header because the sawzall actually takes about 1/8 of an inch off each side so now it's a full quarter short so I'm going to measure this 135 and 7/8 sweet [Music] all right so so eighty and 3/4 here we go and these are my Jack studs the reason they're called Jack studs is because Jack's hold things up this is what you can rest a header on I know a lot of people think that it's like something to do with a deck of cards but I've never heard of a queen stud before perfect now what you want to do here let's take a look down your wood okay you'll see this board it's got a little bit of a curve to it all right so I'm taking that curve and I'm gonna install it against the wall so that curves into the door all right just see that there and I'm gonna screw through the face tie everything together and that'll help keep that wood here nice and straight the other thing we're gonna do is we're gonna pull this forward flush off the building smush there it's good a bit of a warp and a couple of different spots let's start here when the moment if you light it it's kind of nice not working in that 42 reheat it now this board of course he's got some twists and turns in it a little bit more up there okay that one's actually pretty straight let's get her a factory edge right on the concrete now we saw the header now be a good time to test your door that it's gonna fit the whole thing okay now we got plenty of room up top we're gonna have about a half inch on the bottom when we're done and we have about a half inch overall dealing with this but yeah alright your room now it's time to put our door on so we actually went over to the store earlier and picked up a couple of gate kits for they're both the same this one the one on the other side we're gonna finish this off in some grays and blacks and kind of dark tones very modern look so we figured we'd get the black hardware that'll work out well now this is all surface mounted so it mounts on the surface the door and then the surface that is mounting I should be flush with the outside of the door trick right because right now this is a little bit too ugly yeah to mount to anything on remember our intention here was to come back and put a casing on this that's also pressure-treated so having said all of that also really nice decorative big handles so what we're gonna use for our casings is our deck boards now these are one inch thick five and a half inch why'd actual dimension so what we're gonna do is we're gonna rip down our boards at three and a quarter inches and then the balance of that is two and a quarter so that when we put them together on the outside of our walls two and a quarter sorry the three and a quarter is bored and the two and a quarter here the the dimension to the outside corner is three and a quarter on both pieces that's really simple to do so we're gonna use that as our template for all of the trims and moldings here so we'll have some two and a quarter across the top to close off the gap and around our door we're gonna use three and a quarter inch molding nice and fat and it's gonna do a great job so because this is kind of finished carpentry we're gonna change the blade on our saw and I love this saw for this reason it's so easy to change the blade all I do is I push down this little spot here bring the guard forward make sure it's not plugged in of course yeah this is crazy this plugged in put the wrench on that's already hidden in the handle loosen that and then you just take it off with your fingertips there are a lot of designs of saws out there that are not this handy or they come with a wrench but they don't have a place to store it in the tool and end up losing it I've done that a thousand times okay and we're gonna switch that blade out now that one was a really fine tooth blade I think it was a sixty tooth I've been using it for a long time for everything and it is just about worn out as usefulness so when you want something done and the finished look is oh so important best to just get a new blade fifteen or twenty bucks goes a long way and the same thing if you have the guard on you can't grab the nut you have the guard off you expose the teeth that's why I suggest there you go get that back where you aren't gonna lose it and then off we go now just a suggestion save your old blades sometimes these come in really handy if you have a hole in the floor when you're building something you can use this as a plate protector against electrical or plumbing lines all right so here's my five quarter board alright what I've done is I've just put a sheet of plywood down on my little bench saw meit's bench ladder and I'm gonna overhang this stuff really extremely long and I'm going to just screw it in place in a few spots the idea here is to screw this in place so that I can have both of my hands free to do the cutting of course if you have a table saw go ahead and use it know what if you don't well you do it is you set up three and a quarter that's three in a quarter gonna put my thumb there I'm gonna run my index finger right next to it okay and I'm gonna use my index finger as my guide we're lined up we're gonna cut this off at three and a quarter and then the remainder was screwed to this table with my lumber on it it's not going to go anywhere this is perfectly safe in most countries in the world [Music] now using screws to hold this down isn't gonna hurt anything we're gonna be using the same fasteners to install the trim boards later anyway so now we got our two pieces cut down and just for aesthetics we're gonna set it back you know eighth to a quarter just so have a nice little edge there and we're gonna put one screw into the jack and one into the king keep it all nice and tight okay so Jack and King Jack and King every 20 inches or so it sets me up with about four screws now we have a pressure-treated casing weatherproof a pressure-treated jack weatherproof a solid wood door polyurethane over and over and over and over again where the roof we got a shed door system it's gonna last a long long long time and I believe we're even going to paint this thing man oh man so we just got back from lunch hello and behold lo and behold a contractor was in the parking lot of building some sheds some of the kits that they sell online so you know we couldn't help ourselves we were so curious to go up and see what they were offering and sure enough you know he's got the same exterior wall board and most of the frame work on the back wall in the front wall in the shed that was similar to this one it was 2 by 4 but it's 24 inch on center not 16 and the roof it was 2x4 the rest of the framing it was like a kite just a couple of sticks two by threes everything's designed to kind of get nailed together if you haven't had the opportunity to look at this video yet there's one online with a guy actually assembling the kit from the hardware store remember watching the video going wow that doesn't look very solid in person it's actually scary there is not too many places on earth where I would expect that to last more than a few years without getting blown away so from now on I'm not gonna refer to them as the the box store sheds I'm gonna call them the box kites the crazy thing is is the exterior paneling this only primed and designed to get a paint job here's in the same product but all of the frame work is just regular spruce there's not it and there's no pressure-treated anywhere there's all kinds of exposed pine there's just areas all over the place where it's gonna just rot rot rot rot rot you know they look cute from this street right but for the price you can build this thing that's like 1,500 bucks all in including the pad or you can go buy a really cheap kite shed for a little bit more than that and then you have to follow the instructions and hopefully everything that's pre-cut and ready to be assembled and then there's no structure to it you can't actually hang anything off the walls might as well just buy a tarp so the secret to doing this kind of a door frame and lets me feel whenever you're doing pressure-treated lumber finishing trims every time you make a cut it's got to be bigger than what you need okay this stuff has a tendency to dry and it's gonna get a little smaller so what I like to do is measure the outside I'm 39 and 3/4 so we're gonna do is we're going to cut a different design you're gonna draw a little demonstration here here's a door okay and here's my casing right okay there we go free hand loving it here across the top I want to go past the outside edge okay almost like a little bit of an Asian influence with that kind of a finished look all right because when everything starts to dry you want that overhang if you cut it square or try to miter it's gonna dry and it's gonna look stupid forever and ever and ever so if you go long on purpose don't just go square long okay that just shows a little lack of creativity put a little bit of an angle on it at least alright have a little bit of fun here I mean this is the main entrance gonna sexes up a little bit and once you got your face cut you know now they were dealing with finish trim it don't be afraid to pull out the sanding sponge I love these things they take the contour of anything you're sanding and I'm not looking for making its really perfect I'm just looking to get some of these raw rough edges off because when I'm using a skill saw as a ripping saw it's not perfect but nobody's gonna see that from my house [Music] now initially we wanted a half inch gap at the bottom I'm looking around to my amazement I don't have any half-inch material I have 3/8 so I got 5/8 I got 3/4 so I'm gonna start to 3/8 we're gonna just set the door in visually and inspect and see how we feel about this don't let it fall in now we're using gate hardware here which is not manufactured perfectly because gates aren't perfect so you're gonna have to just accept the fact that nothing is gonna be perfect here what you want to do is set up the middle of the cylinder right off the edge of the door and then attach your screws okay that one's going in a bit of an angle big surprise now the way you solve this is by pre-drilling your holes or put the screw on reverse to start the hole all right there we go this needs a little resistance here all right and then we want to square this off [Music] and that's just cuz these are such a coarse thread right having that on reverse burns the tip into the wood so that it sets the hole straight in and out even the one that ended up on an angle you can fix it by burning it in okay so now we take the door stick it on our three-eighths so now we have our airspace okay so we're gonna start flush and from here we're gonna eyeball I have but a half an inch gap I want to split the difference so what I'm gonna do take my door slide it over about a quarter now that I got my gap where I like it I'm gonna put my screw in the same thing you want to burn this in if you don't burn it in this would end up splitting because the three screws are about the same green spot that will make sure that these three screws this close together here the edge of the green won't end up cracking and splitting off over time or you can pre-drill all your holes I just find this a whole lot easier [Applause] release our panel when you use this nail here as a wedge so I can open up a nice consistent gap across this while I'm drilling a hole and this little tool here is awesome I use this when I'm installing door handles so that you don't burn them burn the side of the handle you know how it gets in those brush metal handles get your drill bit on there it always rubs up it's also make sure that the bit doesn't fall off the screw whew nice so because we have materials that expanding contract we can install this doorstop here that way you don't see the door when it's closed the gap way to get that in the right spot is to measure the door this door is inch and a half make your mark okay inch and a half now because we're using surface mount of gate Hardware we want the door in this case and be perfectly flush so I'm just gonna line this up on my mark there we go now I'll close the door and what'll happen here is if it's out of alignment just closing that door well straighten everything out okay now wherever its land as where I'll throw my screws so we have two kinds of hardware here one is gonna be the latch okay and the idea here is it sits there and the door will latch into it and this will keep the door from opening by itself okay this is like wind control and this is how you got something opening with so we're gonna set this up based on these panels you know above this area I'm gonna set the latch off the middle of the door here so the first thing is to get this attached no you have two screws you want to get them on your door and have enough latch so you can actually make contact usually leaves the front scrim pretty close to the front of the door this is one of the reasons why you want a solid wood door set your screw up just there we go no burn that thing in backwards really important that screw goes in straight let's get this nice and horizontal the danger here is a lot of times these screws I may have a softer metal so pre drilling might not be a bad option if you don't have a great little gizmo like this all right what I'm gonna do with my black marker now is I'm gonna attach a door to this hardware and line this up now you don't want it to the very far extent things might tend to move a little bit so come in a little bit like this all right top and bottom you see you don't have any mercy of there you can't go any higher split the difference okay bring it in nice and tight gonna make your mark where all four holes go this time you got to be perfect start the hole with a nail in the direction that you want the screw to be driven okay on an angle towards the middle coming up or coming down this will help make sure this thing stays where you want it and when you're driving your screws they'll go exactly where you want and then won't be manipulated by the grain of the wood remember the Phillips bit screw head as soon as the tip has any resistance because the head is the way it is it'll just Bend on you to follow the resistance of the tip so you really got to be planning in advance to make sure that you're gonna run into problems here get the hardware in place start to see these screws before you finish driving them in because if anything isn't going the way you want you can manipulate the bracket by finishing off one of the screws now because they're going an angle as soon as one side of the screw makes contact with the plate stop screwing or you'll hear the head right off that's why the whole screw is black whoops a little too hard okay there we go now this handle comes with nut and bolt assembly for going on like fence boards so what we're gonna do is we're gonna buy a few screws that are hopefully already black if not we'll put them in some cardboard and spray-paint them but we're gonna mount this one here and the same one on the other door wonderful thing about this latch it's security because it has this little padlock thing here alright if you want to change out these little Phillips screws with some really long screws you could okay and then you can put a padlock on here they I don't know what else to say it's a door I think it's pretty I think it works yep it definitely works there you go an all-season outdoor shed door gotta love it alright well that's it for the doors and windows now it's time to move on and start pimping out our shed well as you can see the shed is taking shape it is starting to look like a shed we have things that have to get done though first we have to finish doing a little trenching around this building we're gonna add River stone so we create kind of like a a moat around our structure here where water can come down the hill and be diverted around the structure instead of flowing through it we also want to put in a couple of support posts we've got to do some soffit work so we can keep the birds out and we've also got to finish up all of our trimming elements and remember we're gonna go very new england-style finish here BAM we have to get it all polyurethane cocking ceiling we got to get it painted we got shelves to put in we got a cheater door for the lawnmower we got a ramp to install whoo man we got a full day ahead of us so stay with us we're gonna show you how to do all of these elements so that you can have the most amazing shed in the neighborhood okay so the plan here is really not too difficult but it's pretty particular too so stay bare with us here we're gonna cut the plate out we're gonna add a couple of pressure-treated two by fours at the same depth as this door here and then we're gonna make a 2 by 4 door with a finished panel on it and the idea behind it is this remember our panel has an overlay so we want to make a door that has the overlay so when the door closes overlay closes over the other panel that's a little specific but it looked like a hidden door and I think that'll be a really cool feature so we are going to just prep this area and then we're gonna build our frame and then we're gonna I mean we are gonna see if we can get that just perfect fingers crossed let's go to work [Music] all right so we have an 81 inch doorframe opening so we're just gonna cut these down to the exact size just to help weatherproof the framing a little bit there [Music] now remember your lawnmower is generally twenty-two inches wide so the hole doesn't have to be much wider than that because since this is just a cheater door to sneak it in the back wall we're gonna put it about twenty six eight and a half this eight and a half by eighty four so the panel it's eight and a half by eighty four so we're gonna do the same kind of framing style for this store and the other concept so you take your full measurement it take a full half inch off you make your box that way we can install this relatively tight to this frame and have all of our give over here which we're gonna need in order to make this system work perfectly so let's see what we get here we're looking at 26 and a half 26 and 5/8 26 and quarter yeah I got a little middle bit of movement we're gonna make our door at 26 and a half and then we'll go from there so I'm gonna go 77 on my verticals and then 26 on my two horizontals that'll give me a nice gap all the way around a basic box frame for our door the idea here is once we've got this we're gonna use a piece of the the skin of the shed over top of the door and that's going to provide the stability so that it's not moving out of square [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] beautiful so I just took my measurements for the top and bottom of the door I'm translating that on to my panel and I took the full measurement minus a quarter inch and not represent my gap where the hinge goes okay so now we have that and I'm using a piece of scrap here has a straight edge real handy now we just got to measure from the floor to the roof line then we can get this perfect alright so before I can cut my door panel I want to install my roofing trim here now and this is just a little like a crown molding little little edge trim so 85 there we go we have the template from earlier on when we frame the place here it is all right we're going 85 from that I think we'll cut it first we can get a perfect measurement 85 templates in case you haven't noticed we're using this template to build the entire shed it's just done with a simple measurement technique I think we got that back in the second video of this series okay okay so we're actual here eighty three and a quarter actual here 8700 so that is nice we'll take off a gap for the bottom and we're going to take off three eighths hold together this one was 87 in the quarter take off three eighths this just a matter of cutting this nail into a frame throw on our hinges we got a door so before we attach to the doorframe we'll check and see how are you mr. lineup oh yeah that's gonna be perfect okay yeah the most important aspect to this door is to make sure there's two things we have to make sure of one that we don't have too much space you know my frame has to fit inside the existing for him let's double check we got 80 inches I believe my hole it's 81 max yes so I can't have that more than an inch off the ground we're in trouble pretty darn flush here I'm gonna nail the whole straight side first try to keep this door as straight as possible when you're building your own door you really want to consider your hardware there's so many options premiere our hinge is gonna go like this the middle of the pin on the cut line so regardless we're gonna have lots of wood right up to the first screw so I can actually have an overhang of this material past my door frame about 3/8 of an inch and then I'll still allow that screw to find the door frame which is awesome on the other side I need to have a latch that elaborate and so that will work for me there as well yes just confirm that your hardware options are gonna work depending on where you put your skin now that we have a little bit more confidence to move forward well hammer it all down I'm also gonna have to add some horizontal blocking or these two are gonna go so that I can tie that hinge into the fruit I'm using more nails than usual here because I'm not just attaching a skin I'm using the skin as my structural support to keep the door from twisting over time okay so I'm just making sure that where these screws go in for my latch it's not a cross member and as close to the edge as I can I'm making my marks remember I'm gonna be drilling on a slight angle inward just make sure I kiss a lot so this meat I don't cause at this point 65 so because we're using the same hinge system on the side door and you can see both at the same time it's important visually to make sure the hinges are at the same height on each door so we will cut a couple more across pieces here let's grow that together and we're good to go right we need one more - did it do that is why you keep your scraps around perfect just touch - hi I think I mean it's like a hidden door right so that takes a little bit of time to perfect it okay so we measured off to where our center line is put our hinge right where we want it well we'll get our hinge installed to the building first and then we'll attach it to our door 65 was our Center mark I like to set that hole first because I only have two hands there we go you know here's the trick we have a little bit of room at the top and all the way to that door sitting on the plywood right now to create our airspace so we're gonna use our hammer just give it a bit of a raise to get it off to get the weight off the wood here we go well it's rainin now wonderful and here are my screw hole just gonna line up you can see how close I am to the edge so we're gonna put a five-degree on it and go backwards establish that bring that course of action in here we go and this one we're gonna do straight so when we drive that screw in secondly it isn't gonna change the direction of the latch for the position sorry the owner first alright and then we'll do this one on the angle this one should be just like the other one put it in position mark our holes hard to get the angle for the screws established which the harbor is there let's drive everything straight and just like the last one don't put the screws all the way and you know you've got it where you want we weren't doing tighten the screw heads till they go flat or just break the right off okay nice alright okay so the weather report doesn't look all that great so well we got the ability to work we're gonna get it done we're gonna finish all the trimming on the shed which is basically taking our five quarter boards and ripping like we said at two and a quarter and three and a quarter all right so that when we come to our outside corners we will have a finished 300 quarter face here and then there's one inch thick Plus this two in the corner gives us the same dimension on both sides of the corner just helps tie over than the other real nice of course we'll use the two and a quarter across the top and then the nice thick base across the bottom trim everything up and then we can get our polyurethane and you seal it all up so hopefully in a couple days when the rain stops if we can get this thing all painted up just setting up my table-saw [Music] if you're working by yourself this system actually is more efficient than using a table saw because the boards that you're gonna have are never straight so having a fixed fence causes the boards to get cut different dimensions when I rip it this way I'm actually cutting exactly two and a quarter the entire length of the board and because it gets skinnier it's easier to straighten as you install so I just put one screw together in the joint in the corner we're gonna just make sure that this actually fits I might have to cut the profile of our template on here ma no we don't okay slowly we're gonna take where we screwed it attach it to the building first we screw the boards together and then we'll screw to the Builder now you can see we're getting superior weather protection here we're also going to be using a polyurethane caulking here to connect these two joints and it's very flexible it's good for four season and it'll keep this stuff nice and dry now when we were we were at the store the other day we were looking at their kits we didn't see any of the kits ahead any of the protection like that so I don't know what they're using or if they're using a system but this is the way to finish it off and we're gonna finish this off with a quick light sand and a paint job as well I mean the possibilities are endless for what you want it to look like [Music] it's an important step demonstrate this because I'm putting on soften I don't want this tied up totally room for the softener going behind use it using J trams or whatever else will have you so I'm actually going to install flush with this ready burn it in so it doesn't split I'm gonna put it in flesh at the other end that way after the soft that goes in you'll see the whole two and a quarter inch it won't look stupid jam it all the way up there half that's gonna disappear before you're done so far were pleased I mean let's face it after seeing all this you realize if you can build a shed you can build that oh loving it that's for you Anthony this is the best part because this is our door and the way we're gonna do our door system is we are going to have the base trim from the door overhang and we're gonna have it join on that 45-degree angle right here okay so we'll cut that through attach this to the door and then over here at this point we cut that off we also put a 45 here and then the end piece of a 45 there so it'll open to complete 90 plus the gap which I'll give you about a hundred degree opening which is more than enough to get your lawnmower up don't put your knee in the green goop [Laughter] because we don't get a door open enough for comfortably getting the lawnmower in it and I going tight we're gonna remove almost an inch from the dimension of this wood also I'm going to change the angle to pull 55 degrees okay so if you can imagine the last piece here if it's this far apart when you open the door you don't swing to this far open departments content which is perfect that is harness base now this on the door Paul gets painted the same is this any door and behind sticking yo just get the paint on there as well keep that line straight from a distance up on the outside corners [Music] [Music] let's make sure it functions nice and we'll cut that just a little bit long [Music] [Music] nice [Music] the next thing for us to do is get some exterior sealant I'm liking this stuff by the Posche it's null weather now because the different countries situation we got going on you probably find a hard time getting Lapage product but you will have no problem going to your hardware store and saying I'd like to get any polyurethane caulking okay so that's the secret this is a polyurethane there are many varieties on the shelf all you got to do is cut off the tip and the short angle okay not too big that represents above not even a quarter inch this was actually marked for quarter-inch I was lower down so less is more the stuff expands crazy amount pull your little tip out of your cocking gun puncture the hole let's stick it in your gun no polyurethane cocking is not something you want to apply lick your finger and wipe you don't want to touch it all right touching this stuff wrecks it so what you've got to do is you gotta get good at applying the right amount of pressure to get a nice consistent bead so invest in a good cocking gun that when you release the handle the this piece backs off and gets rid of the pressure so doesn't keep pushing cocking yet when you don't want it so I'll demonstrate the idea here is you want to bridge the gap from the wallboard to your trim piece filling every one of these halls nice and easy under pressure you want to have enough coming out that you're pushing it into the corner I'm not about a 5 degree angle here okay and I'm pushing it into that joint with the tip of the gun this way I don't have to run my finger down there and I get a nice healthy bead so that it has the ability to expand in hotter weather yes today is not as hot and you want to just continue all the way to the other side without stopping the better you get this the faster you can go but this is not about speed you go too fast and you're not comfortable you'll just make a huge mess and you don't want to do that and we're going to move as we squeeze keeping the snowplow Ridge there that little bit of a bead right in front of you and every time you stop to get more pressure on the handle stop moving your gun when you let go of the handle there we go nice and easy that one not too bad the best advice I haven't worked with polyurethane if you're not happy with something let it dry and then take a knife and cut it off afterwards you get a big blob or Ridge it's easy to remove with a knife later try to wipe it out now you're just gonna get it all over yourself and all over your work it's going to look like junk now the reason we want to seal all this up is because this is our water diversion system okay we don't want water getting in behind our trims we're gonna use this to protect all of our boards everything inside that shed alright the same system we also want to use on your windows and feel free to get on a ladder and go across the top of all of these as well this way even when there's a driving wind you're not gonna get problems and behind all of your trim if you don't want to use a sealant that's fine then use of all pressure treated lumber inside your your shed but this will also help the exterior paneling here last a lot longer because when you this first and then you paint you're overlapping the paint on a seal and that protects that caulking from the UV rays and that'll make this last 40 50 years without even talking again I'll show you what happens when you figure okay get some kind of a weird smooth texture but now there's bumps everywhere so where do you stop cause you can't get the bumps to sit tight you're just gonna cause you all kinds of problems create shadows you can't stop you touch a joint you got to do the whole joint such a pain in the butt yeah that's why I suggest not touching it I think it looks better without there without using your finger alright well here we are on a cold windy morning and we're here to finish pimping out our shed very excited about getting this project done as you know let's take a look because what we did you know how we had this little trench dug out here we just filled it up with some rock for the landscape cloth it's a nice way to bridge the gap and it gives us great so now the water coming down the hill hits the rock it's gone it's gonna disappear go around there shed and send it through it which is awesome we have our cedar and our soffit products here so we are going to put up our posts and put up our roof system underneath to close it all up that'll keep all of the birds and animals out then we've got a few more things to do inside some hurricane ties we're going to show you how to install those those are simple and they work and we've got a few other surprises and tricks up our sleeve so let's get at it so we're gonna install the hurricane ties today and this basically attaches the roofing system to the wall panel it's to comes in a hardened galvanized steel this stuff is all engineered and so when you buy something like this you're gonna get the screws and the bit and the fastener all from the same company all engineered to produce and get a good result here so you don't have to overthink it you just really want to get it remember the rule when you've got a fastener every hole in that fastener is designed to have a screw in it okay whether it's a hurricane strap like this or it's a joist hanger every hole gets a fastener I know that seems like overkill but it's engineered like that for a reason and since I'm not an engineer I don't need to know the reason I just need to know to fill the hole so we had a lot of comments and the videos about this latch and because it's a gate latch you could get locked in your shed and they got a point there so what we're gonna do is we're just going to throw the string on it's an old system I think every old farmer in the world and gardeners got this done we just got to drill a hole through the frame so we can attach this piece of nylon string and then if you ever do get locked in here when the wind blows you can just open the latch now because we're drilling such a deep hole I don't want to have a huge hole on the other side and I want it to be on an angle so that water will actually drain out I don't want water sitting in the hole so I'm gonna do this so I can get my bit buried in there and come out the other side oh and my string is a really brutal to try to work with here so I'm just gonna wrap it around my my drill bit all right and the idea here is just to give it something stiff that I can use to push it through the hole where it is okay this is just temporary we're gonna go to the store and buy some nylon string but we recognize the importance of not locking ourselves in as well so we've got our beautiful 4 by 4 by 10 foot cedar post they're a little bit too long we're gonna go right from the concrete pad into a metal block right into the roof and we're gonna block it into the roof so we add some stability and rigidity but also so that suppost can support lateral movement for weight because we got a couple of surprises we want to be able to hang some stuff off that so we just got to mark it and cut it all four sides because I don't have a saw a big enough to go through in one pass [Music] so here we are now these cedar posts they don't have to go to the sheathing just into the frame and I'm just gonna throw in one screw for now so that the wind doesn't blow it around on me now what we're gonna do is we're gonna take our level level this posts off in both directions and then bolt it into the ground once we have that we can take our structural screws we're gonna go right through from the outside and into this post to pick up that so we have a nice load transfer from the roof overhang into the post itself in case somebody comes along and bumps into this in the meantime I'm gonna just put my marker right on the concrete here we are there we go no that's not the fastest hammer drill in the world what it is the most convenient this is a quarter inch by three and a quarter tapcon screw with the Phillips head [Music] [Music] all right okay this takes a half inch but it just tightens up okay and I'm the cedar poster end I'm just gonna finish installing my hardware you want to do something aesthetically pleasing so the middle of this from here to here and maybe if this screw goes on this line here that would be nice all right if you want to measure go ahead but in my experience it looks good it is good because that's how everyone else is gonna judge it how it looks good pre-drill about an inch in some toys headlock exterior black screws the difference is we want to install it on the framework that's in behind the door so I'm lining it on the nails here and same thing with that pre-drill this one's three and a half inches thick so I'm not worried about the depth of my pre-drill we're going to use our structural screw coming through here to the outside plate through that 2x4 and into this both three inches in so we're pretty confident that that's going to hold but the strength of the screw is in the thread so the way you double the strength of a screw is by blocking from here to the next piece so that's all we're gonna do in here Adson blocking you'll notice I got a new tape measure for all of our friends who are on the metric system okay so this is 6 and 1/8 or 155 millimetres that's how does that turn out ah nuts 150 four and a half millimeters and there we go now what we've done is we've transferred the the load responsibility from all the hardware in the corner and then added this one and added this one because the plywood above it is also nail down to the and added this one because it's nailed down you understand the concept here because it's all attached and now it's blocked nothing can twist loose it's gonna be brilliant so what I'm gonna do here here's a little bit different just gonna eyeball a measurement here I'm gonna cut this one in I'm gonna pull it blocking right next to this I'm gonna screw from both sides no toy like a tiger your neighbor's awning doesn't do as well in the Stormers your shed did we got a little ahead of ourselves making this sexy the other day I'm gonna pull this off second install my soffit remember as far back as I can forget to nailed on so I want to install it behind this piece of wood how did install solve it take one all right here we go really simple we're using a perforated soffit so we have air flow we're gonna add a little piece to the back and cover everything else up so it's nice and pretty this is the product here okay and you'll notice the profile the edges are thin and then everything else is a little thicker so we have two kinds of trims to install it with this is a sill trim gets nice and skinny and it receives all of that thin edge it holds it nice and tight and cuz nice clean look this is a J trim now if you use that it's not quite as pretty but it will work all right it's just your stuff is gonna be wobbling around in it it won't fit as tighten so this is for areas where you have the ends or you have to cut your profile so we got a few of each and we're gonna get this installed so we're gonna start off with the sill trim we'll place our soffit into it add a few screws and then that's simple so we're just showing you the quick process here on something this square it's not that tricky right because we have a 10-foot shed look at this ten foot product I mean it's about as easy as it gets right you can design your long wall the outside is ten feet then all of your roofing materials all your plywood's all your sheet goods are gonna work out really well it reduces the amount of work that you have to do makes your life quick so you can whip to one of these together in a weekend yeah well I guess we're taking this almost a month and I'm gonna get these little nails out here now you don't have to use the nails out as long as I am these are left over from the roof and they're gonna work great all right so here's our soffit screw it's really short because it only has to go through the metal and you only install this on the thin part and now the head is fat like it's huge just in case your soffit gets a lot of weather and does a little moving around the aluminum siding or the aluminum soffit will tend to bore a bigger hole but with a head like that it's never coming loose 32 I would suggest getting a nice pair of snips like those Weiss they are awesome for making nice long straight cuts without curling all the metal up so we gotta get up then we gotta get over so every 16 inches or so in the middle line up your 2x4 makes everything look very pretty and intentional I'm just gonna get rid of a little extra metal here this one needed yeah it's that easy I know for those of you are not inclined to use nails in this situation just go ahead use the sava screws Roy let's do the next sheet almost inevitably once you fold it one way when you fold it back it just breaks off we just want to meet up with the middle here where it's absolutely pretty now I'm tight against the edge right now and I'm gonna pull back this way beneath just leave a little room for expansion when it's warmer outside so now we want to get a piece of jade trim and cap this and then another one reversed to install here so that we can start putting the next piece of soffit down the other side just screw through all three pieces of metal at the same time here lock that in place okay now we're just gonna reinstall our trim restore this all back to its natural looking beautiful state now remember when you're working with yourself it especially when you're doing the shed the world is not going to be perfect okay and if you come up a half inch shy or you have a little bit of a gap cut an extra piece or two of this stuff go back-to-back the goal is to get it closed all right we want it closed so that we don't get critters and bees and stuff coming into our shed that is the whole idea now if you want to really work hard and do all of the 3d imaging on some software and work out all your building materials before you get started to make sure that everything fits go right ahead but generally in the real world we just make sure stuff works [Applause] the wrong drill bit and a secret here is to measure in advance to know if you're finishing with a thin piece or the thick piece that determines whether it's a sill or a j-train here's my 4-foot headlocks group just a little tongue-in-cheek there folks these things are really long they I think the six and a half inch you can see that if I come through here into my post after I'm buried in the wood I'm gonna be coming out the other side which is why it's nice to have it up above the soffit so what we're gonna do we can just drive this bad boy in here we're gonna bury it until the head is completely in the wood and it's nice and flush because we have plans to paint all this trim once we're done that we're gonna have a nice compression between here and the post and this never gonna move you part of making things pretty is adding a little bit of color we're gonna drop you six inches from the roof and we're gonna put a couple of these in here and hang some pretty little plants guys like to throw a little bit of color one in the half-inch structural black screws so that they're not just decorative they're incredibly strong well the next thing we're gonna do is we we're attaching a couple of eye bolts here but if you want to know why you're gonna have to watch the reality renovation series you're gonna want to watch the reality retina vision episode for this one guarantee you've never seen this feature on a shed before yeah who needs a gym when you got a job like this now we are going to add a little ramp to the side of the shed for the lawnmower just kind of make it easier without all the bumps and stuff what we're gonna do is we're just gonna cut out a little bit of the grass here so we can drop this side and we're gonna use some limestone screenings you can use stone dust you can do gravel whatever you're in the mood for and then we're gonna lift this side up a little bit more flush with the front just to help finish this off well there's a lot more grass here than there was over there let's see how she works how nice is that lots of room for a lot more off the side now the only thing we have left to do here folks is paint but we're saving that as a special surprise so you have to check out the reality renovation video and we're gonna reveal of the final product okay so click the link at the end of description and if you like this kind of content then by all means hit the thumbs up button we appreciate that interaction but most importantly asked your questions in the comments section okay don't email me I'm not taking time to look through emails to help people out got to get your Google account up and running and then get in the comments that's where the action is we have all kinds of questions and answers and people chiming in from different parts of the world so if you've got a question you'll find the answer right here in the comment section below hopefully we'll see you there soon [Music]

Channel: Home RenoVision DIY

Views: 5,155,089

Rating: 4.7482877 out of 5

Keywords: how to build a shed, how to build a shed roof, building a shed, build a shed, how to build shed, she shed, diy shed building, diy shed, home renovision shed, shed building for diy, shed build, home renovision diy how to build a shed, how to build a shed home renovision, how to build a shed roof step by step, diy cheap shed building, diy shed build, shed build diy, garden shed, how to build a shed house, build a shed from scratch, build a shed cheap, she shed diy

Id: BLk_CAMmQPc

Length: 231min 38sec (13898 seconds)

Published: Wed Dec 26 2018

Reddit Comments

[u/CaptainJoeyy]

Home renovations channel. He give so many tips on basic framing, tool tricks, building by yourself, and more. I’ve been researching a lot on framing and finishing and this is the most informational content I’ve found so far. Fyi, this is gold for visual learners!

[u/shelzmike]

Love Jeff's stuff. Have you actually built this yet? Any cost estimates?

[u/An_unhelpful_remark]

I built this-ish. From watching this video though! It was great. It's actually a 24 x 8 that I turned into a chicken coop, but it turned out great.