BIRDS MOUTH & PURLINS CUTTING THE ROOF | CHICKEN COOP BUILD PART - 4 | Building our Homestead

[Music] hey everybody welcome back to the homestead for the chicken coop actually I'm gonna start calling a chicken shed and I think by the time I'm done with it it'll probably be a chicken mansion or something I wanted to take this opportunity today to show you how to cut roof this style roof is a lean-to basically it's just got one side and today we're gonna focus on the birds mouth area which is where the joist lands and sits on the top plate or your wall or like over here I got a beam going through this here is just a sample piece that I had going just to make sure all my cuts were gonna be good if you do have that luxury you could even use a piece of one buyer this is just a piece of scrap I had laying around take that time and figure out your cuts before you start cutting it on your your new boards that you went and got first thing we want to do is figure out the pitch of the roof so this is a 2 and 12 pitch you can do any pitch you want really 2 and 12 is pretty good it gets the rain off pretty quick we don't really have much snow if you were in more of a snow load area it would probably give it more of a pitch and what pitch means is every foot it's gonna raise two inches so every 12 inches it's going to raise up two inches so this is six foot long so that means this is raised up one foot so now that we know our pitch first thing we want to do is cut the tails of the eaves so that when we put up gutters or fascia it's not hanging out on an angle like this it'll be straight up and down so let's get started on that because we know that it's going to be a two and twelve pitch speed squares come in really handy for these things we're gonna follow the common and we're gonna go to two that gives you a two and twelve and take this back to two right on the edge of the board and then we'll mark that through now something else to notice while we're here is this - let's get it perfect lines up with this ten so this is your degrees so this two and 12 pitch is a 10 degree cut which will make it really easy once we get over to the table saw now let's go over there and cut all these a tattoo and 12 pitch or 10 degrees so now we got our rafter tail cut a tattoo and 12 or 10 degrees as we found out what I want to do is measure off that point one foot it'll make a mark I'm just doing a one foot Eve you could do more if you like it's up to you and I'll bring that one foot mark right to the edge of the top plates so I got that one found out down here so we'll go over to the other side and Mark that where it lands over there so in theory you could measure this I'm trying to do this more unconventionally the easier way for someone that's never done it before this just is easier just to kind of set it up there and mark it so let's take this down and make some marks another thing I want to add real quick is take that piece you measured at one end and take it to the other end and just make sure that the marks you made line up if they don't then go with the one that's longer because you can shorten them up as you go down to one end all right so we got our mark down here at the bottom side from there your pivot point just pivot it to the two on your common here 10 degrees and give that a mark through what I'm trying to do here is make it really simple mark three and a half inches from that from here and then I'll bring that mark through doesn't have to go all the way it's just a reference a framing square works really well for this because it's flatter your speed squares got that one edge and it just makes it tough is I want to cut out the minimal amount of wood off of this joist or rafter whichever we want to call it so this mark here is my angle that it needs to be cut to land on that top plate correctly so I'm gonna take this framing square and line it up with that mark that we made and then that three and a half inch mark here I just want to have this go through and an end at zero there at that three and a half inch mark take that and Mark it through and this is what we will move right here this is called the heel so we have the heel and the jeez I know what it's called shoulder cut so we want to bring this heel cut through so we can cut that you could get out the old trusty handsaw and make that cut but I do prefer a skill saw set your blade depth before you change your angle set your blade depth so that the last tooth on that blade just wants to go at the point of the heel in the shoulder lock your saw set it to the 10 degree mark and then cut that cut your mark out now the next cut make sure you flatten your table back out and you put your saw depth all the way down this is gonna be much easier with a skill saw because you're gonna be able to keep your saw table flat and that'll make this cut flat compared to a handsaw where it's gonna be hard to to come in at this shallow cut and try and get that follow your mark and just meet that edge there then you can get your hands on and finish the cut we're pretty much gonna follow the same routine for this up here three and a half inches from that point framing square follow that angle mark until the edge of your aiming square lands on that three and a half inch point mark it through bring this point through now a good thing to do is to dry fit it now that you've got one cut so set it up there see how it looks make sure it's all good no more math too much involved we'll basically line each of these up with that angle cut that we made and scribe that mark through now I would suggest writing a sample or template or Sam on the one that you did first use that one to mark all these don't cut one and then use that one to mark the next one because it'll start growing on you so just use the one that you originally cut to mark the rest of these okay so to make life real easy if you're comfortable with the skill saw take all the boards that you're trying to cut and line them all up and if you got one get out the old bar clamp and doing this putting them together lining them up you can cut them all at once at least this cut that'll keep you from having variances in doing these individually this cut though shoulder cut we're going to have to cut individually [Music] [Music] [Music] okay so we got the joists up but we're not finished yet remember back to when I said mark both ends of your building on your joists and go with the longer one that comes into play here so yeah there's a gap there and as they go down they get tighter so what that's doing here is these aren't exactly flush all the way through it's gonna have a gap this much from this point to that far one down there so what we're gonna do is measure this distance and take it out of the top there quarter-inch it's a much better fit better now so we could call this done you could just throw some plywood on top here but rather than buying plywood and putting it on here I'm going to go a different route and because a building without eaves is a real pain in the butt because water would just dump down the side here and I'm going to cut a notch through all these joists that'll tie them all together like a piece of plywood wood and I'm gonna have them extend out about six inches to a foot and then we'll add another board on the side here as an eve it's called a pearl in that goes all the way through so let's get started on that so if you are gonna go the purlins route a good tip is to number of these so that you put them back in the order that they came out we sandwich them all together basically what I want to do is divide this thing into thirds these are eight foot long just under so we'll call it 84 feet to center and then we'll just do two feet on either side of that that seems pretty easy can't go wrong so two and six and off that mark we will measure an inch and three-quarters and that'll give us three and a half inches here and we will remove all of this set the depth of a skill saw a two by four thickness cut that out once you get your two ends square cut keep chopping at this here and then we'll chisel it out [Music] nail it down toenail it right here and up at the beam [Music] so I think that does it for today's video and the rough framing if you want to see how long this takes me go ahead hit the subscribe button and if you found this interesting and informative hit the thumbs up thanks for watching we'll see you on the next one and then I'll make a mark at 6 inches H and then set that earmuffs cover your ears [Music]

Channel: JoeSimple

Views: 1,657,235

Keywords: Homesteading, Birds mouth, Birds-mouth, Purlin, roof cuts, birdmouth, open coop design, chicken coop buid, chicken coop, chicken coop design, skillion roof

Id: ULgbsxyZVCQ

Length: 14min 1sec (841 seconds)

Published: Wed Apr 15 2020