Adjustable angle plate, improving and scraping - Part 3

okay I squared up the whole t-slot table by scraping and some milling and I just set it up on another machine and bored out the first of the two bearing holes I used again will help the boring head aboard it to 27 millimeters and then I did a facing cut when I faced a nice flat surface on to the bore next step will be to flip the part around indicate the bore from the other side and open up the other hole already using the clamping screws back there I can pull it off T slot T bolts as you can see I used bolts with a TT nut to hold it against this box parallel and here you can again see bore with the nice facing cut okay I flipped the table around and machine bore is now on the bottom and as on base of the angle plate I'm again indicating the machine or around the unmissable I don't have to indicate again in this direction because I have the Box parallel as my reference surface I only have to indicate in the X direction which is pretty simple because my indicator holder can reach around the upper bearing block here and I can sweep 180 degrees around like this we're good to bore the upper bearing hole and then do a face cut on the other band running at 500 rpm and we're attracting without spindle running and as you can see we are 27.0 with our target dimension very well and now we change our tool because this is a boring bar for through holes we need one for facing the facing one has two cutter at 45 degrees and if you remember I showed making these boring bars in another video link down in description if you're interested now we have to set the boring head for facing first thing is to press in this pin right here and to pull out this pin up here and that engages the gear drive for fine feet and when I turn this upper ring the lower one moves slow as you can see and that moves the slide or carriage of the boring head very slowly while the machine is running you'll see why I mean when when we have to running and I will just hold it with fingers while the machine is running I'm just looking how far out we are okay I won't go any further now normally you would have to hand crank it back but that's not my stay we disengaged a fine feet and re-engage standard feet and we turn on the machine and we can quick retract the tool or put yet quick-quick retract and I'll go back we re-engage the fine feed we move our cutter down slightly point two millimeters and take another cut okay I got a an even surf face for the whole block here now we can get our tool out of the way do a last retract dude okay that was good okay and get the tool out of the way by the way the feed the feed rate per revolution like on a lathe on this boring head is fixed it's about point O seven millimeters per revolution on the bigger will help the boring head like the UPA three UPA four and bigger you can set the feed rate in increments of five hundredths of a millimeter I think and then it gets really neat one day when I find a suitable UPA three boring head I will buy it just to have to do half the whole range a UPA - would be nice - okay this is a jump forward in time I didn't film some of the work I did between the boring boring of the bearing blocks and the current state of the table but it's nothing spectacular a part that it's now a complete tilting table I machined two rings these are just steel rings which are slit and have a clamping screw and they are bolted onto the onto the t-slot side of the table and these act as the new clamping arrangement for the table the original design was that the bolt the DES pitted bolts had a thread on the end and the nut but a problem with that design was when you tighten down the nuts you moved of course the table in the angle setting and with this design this doesn't happen anymore as there as you don't torque on the pivot you're just tightening down this five millimeter screw em screw and I have a clamping ring like this on both sides and I turned the pivot bolts there are two pivot bolts you trip them as turned so they fit very close into the bores and as you can see with the clamping open doesn't move out by its own so but there is one thing missing if I type down clamping screws I can still move the table and why because the pivot bolts are turning within the baseplate when you look closely let make a small red dot here when I tilt the table the boats move with the table so I have to mount these bolts rigid intentionally into the base plate and for that we have to take it apart of course we have to so now I have to find a way to mount these bolts rigidly so they don't turn in the bores and there is already a key way that's not there is already a keyway and I might use this we might just machine a cute key slot into the bolt and use a six millimeter key which fits Oh which fits very tightly into the key ways here and that might give us a simple solution for that problem okay we're all about the milling machine and we have to machine the key way into the thicker end of this bolt to fit the six millimeter key I already took the first one and my setup dialed in I have a big block this is from a recent eBay purchase this is out of a set of chick making set like Lego for machinists you get V blocks you get big T slot cards and you and all these parts are keyed and indexed together so you can build up very fast very complicated very accurate jigs and I got a lot on eBay with about six or seven parts from this set or from the system and they all are very nicely made they're all hardened they are ground within five thousandth of a millimeter square and parallel over a distance of 100 millimeter and they're just nicely made made in Germany of course I'm using the sweet block right now I drop the V block in device against my stop I'm going to take my bolt and clamp it between the jaws taking the full 3.5 millimeter deep cut in one pass and then we will widen the slot to fit the key and there we go okay and this is it and this is a bit on the tight side I might give it a hair more just shaving off a few more molecules and this is a nice tight fit that's how I like it a key slot perfect I'm happy before I end this video somebody mentioned to me that the key way alone is not sufficient to hold the swivel bolts without any backlash in the base plate and they're absolutely right for one the pin can move axially because there is the there is no locking element and also it can wiggle slightly in the key way as every key way has at least a very small amount of gap between them between the keyway and the key so I was thinking about a good way to lock to add a second locking element to each of these loop to each of the swivel bolts to make them absolutely stay in place and what I decided to do and what may be the most simple and obvious solution is a dowel pin I'm going to clamp this whole angle table up on a milling machine I will move in 50 millimetres and drill through the castings Ruud a swivel bolt and into the casting again with a 5 millimeter drill remit and then I'm going to set in a long hard install pin it will lock the this removal bolt once and for all of course I have to use a doll pin with a thread on the end so I can pull it out if I want to disassemble the table everything else would be just plain stupid if you say pound in a adult pin the fattest red aura or some other ways to grip it and pull it out so that's important and we'll just go to an old machine and set this up and drill and ream these two holes I wanted to get this out of the way before I end this video before otherwise I will get about two hundred comments and asked me if the key way or the key is good enough to hold the spool bolts in place and the answer is no okay clamp the table up against my box parallel to Bessie clamps and I use the edge finder to find my procedures where I was drill and I'm going to start with the 120 degree starter drill okay now we pre-drill with four millimeter twist drill at the right or p.m. this is a four-point eight mil millon real butt and our chicks to a five millimeter machine reamer okay and I decided to drill the holes completely through so I can knock out the dowel pins from backside with a long punch because I couldn't find any dollop and long dowel pins with a pullout shred in my shop so I made an extended drill bit just took a piece of four millimeter drill rod drilled it in the end and glued in a 2.5 millimeter high speed steel grill they have a long extended drill deck to go all the way through okay I kept two pieces off from a ejector pin and I rounded over the edges and I'm going to use these as the whole pit there we go that should fix and align the do the tilting bolts here once and for all and we drilled through on the backside so we can use the thin punch and knock them out again so I think we're now they're really done for this episode thank you all for watching and see you next time

Channel: Stefan Gotteswinter

Views: 33,110

Rating: 4.9733334 out of 5

Keywords: wohlhaupter, boring head, ausdrehkopf, feinbohrkopf, rf45, opti mb4

Id: DNojYORjlPk

Length: 20min 19sec (1219 seconds)

Published: Sun Jun 05 2016