Adjustable angle plate, improving and scraping - Part 1

hey welcome back to a shop what you see here in front of me is my next project now as I made a small sign wise or a sign base and the sign bars I made I need an angle table for the milling machine or an adjustable angle plate this they are sometimes referred to and I couldn't find a proper one Industrial Surplus one or a used one that fits my need so I bought the set of castings in fact this is sold as import and it's a adjustable angle plate it cost about 80 bucks but I'm only going to use it as I roll casting I'm going to remission the whole thing I have chosen this one become us when we open and the nuts and it moves a bit rough out of the box it goes from starts at zero it goes let's go this up all the way to the ninety and even slightly over ninety degrees and it goes back tilt back in the other direction about 15 degrees so this has the full range that I need and it's not super high it doesn't take up the love of table height I have between table and spindle and that's very simple made and it was dirty I couldn't even buy the material to machine my own for 80 bucks so I'm taking this Chinese masterpiece which is really cheap for 80 bucks and I'm going to make it a proper tool and the horrible green paint will also go let's take a closer look at this piece of art okay the annual adjustment is done via this pivot here and it's clamped of these two FD knots it's about a 16 millimeter thread yes that's a 16 millimeter thread and as you can see here the paint is rubbed off and this is very pretty masterful PaintShop interferes with the with parts of the dial and the the zero marker and yeah let's clean the bottom surface and take it to the surface plate and have a look if how much material we have to remove or how precise this thing is from the beginning and I'm only very lightly run a stone over it and any eventual burr I'm not a big fan of stoning surfaces every time you use them but from time to time you can do it let's go to the surface plate with distinct and another reason why I have chosen it it has ten millimeter T slots and that's size I have in the shop yeah 1000 meter T slot but these sides of T slots are a very rough machined maybe we'll have to run an end all through these slots to clean the sides up okay let's take it apart shouldn't be too hard let's convince the pins out I'm nice they even have they keep this shoulder bolt which is well you rough but nice touch so doesn't turn when you tighten down the screw nice good idea and good it even goes apart I soaked this thing in wd-40 when I got it because it had the cosmoline or whatever they use all over it big mess so it dropped it in a big bucket with a lot of WD and wait at some time okay then we have this Cyril marker okay that's right and let's remove the dial here too it's riveted on with some aluminum rivets let's see if we can chisel them off there we go I want to see the style again I'll make my own there we go okay I've set the base plate up on the shaper to machine in the other areas up to the flange here and I'm doing this I have a reference surface when I flip it over on the milling machine and cut out the the clamping slots and I need to make some space that my regular 8 millimeter clamping studs with big heavy-duty washer fit nicely in there they have space down here there is enough clearance but when I get over here the the washer sits on top of this step here and I'm going to machine the step away so this is one even surface and I also don't want the washer to sit on a painted surface it's a bad practice because the paint has some gift to it they're not super relevant because the paint will chip away anyway as soon as I start to use this okay right now I'm cutting down the surface the connecting surface which will also reference off when we machine the back side or straight the back side and I also realized that the side wall of these ribs or splines here is not Square to the surface on machine right now so we have to change the shaper later to vertical feed and machine this face here on both sides so I machine both sides both other areas of the casting down to be flat and the same height to the to the table of the shaper I measured down with taps mic here and here and this is within one hundredth of a millimeter over the whole distance now I'm going to change the speed of the shaper for vertical feet and we're going to face these two locks which which are the bearings for tilting we're going to face this the side wall so they are square for that we need to change the feet direction okay the shapers have a quite unique feature you can take the feet ratchet and mount take it off and mount it on the vertical feet for so the table guesses by the machine let's see our way this is always a bit fiddly now the ratchet is mounted upside down on the my political feet would clamp the set screw after ratchet wheel and yeah this part here back on this adjusts the how much the travel of motion during each stroke for a feet okay now can feed vertically a machine to other areas the sidewalls of the bearing mount and the other walls of the casting all in one setup they are all in line now and we can tear down this okay I get the part out of the shaper and next thing we're going to do is set it up on the milling machine upside down like this level it out and then we will clean up these Lots okay I fit this off-camera I cleaned up the two most outer clamping slots with an amp mill I just as you can see I took the part and I rise to doff the machines table with a few parallels clamp it down in four places then I ran a 12 millimeter carbide end mill through these slots and tried to clean them up as much as possible but as you can see in front here there's still some green paint left and back here there's a shimmer of green paint left I don't want to remove too much material as I still need to go in with a bolt and clamp this thing down and if I machine these slots completely clean they might end up with a width of 16 or 17 millimeter and then even my big washers and I have a few workers would be too small but right now there are quite nice fitting and I can live with the fact that the slots are only drop it that the slots are only partially finished I'm not going to touch the inner slots I'm only deburring the edges and lightly hit the money inside worth file to knock off the big the casting flash there is some yeah the casting is not the greatest in the world so that's left to do now we can tell on the setup from the milling machine and see how we go burbot a suffix plate and I'm bearing gloves that means that we start with the scraping we'll check the underside for flatness and I suspect that that the piece is high about in this area and this area but we'll see as soon as we as we gave the check with some ice Popp blue this time I'm using the determined branded blue it's a bit more faint in color but in the beginning I have to use a pretty thick anyway to get any reading on my surface so I put a dab of it down on the plate I'll use my roller and let spread it out just a nice small spot where it's somewhat even and I can blew up my surface my work surface somewhat if you take the color too thick on your surface plate you still can wipe it down with a clean paper rag shop towel or something like that ok now this is this is prepared and can take our part wipe it down so there are no small dust particles on it I stone the surface so we don't screw surface plate and we're good to go and not bad this area in this area is high as the color transferred from the surface plate to the part only the high spots catched some of the color and these are the high spots and I can counter check this with a straight edge against the light source I always like to do a it yet check with the straight edge to see if my bluing after surface is plausible at least from time to time I do it don't do it always now can go to the Weiss take out the power scrape and hog off some material okay Kemper than the Weiss I have my power scraper for kind of with a white carbide blade in it and 13 millimeter of stroke and I can go to town okay just as a first pass and as you can see we can remove quite a loves mature pretty fast that way stillness slightly and clean it with some alcohol we go back to surface plate and check it again that's after the second check on the surface plate and just concede the bearing pattern has spread out Navi are touching here here here here we start to catch some contact now that's quite good just and give another shop and that was the second go in it and what I'm going to do now is I'm going to take the scraper and just scrape over the whole surface once to even out to give it all a straight surface otherwise it doesn't take the layout the high spot glue very well okay now we we hit the whole surface once with two straight birth we didn't want to change the bearing pattern not the surface much just give it some texture okay now we can go back to the surface plate let's keep track of the passes this was number three or in fact it was number two and as we just roughed up the surface a bit let's go another check on the surface plate and this is just a medium roughness in your stove okay I changed the camera around so you can see the site a bit better and I think you can see the Bluenose a bit better and this path number six okay and don't stone your surface is too heavy otherwise you will mush out your pattern when you do the when you do the high spot loop okay this is after seven passes and apart from this one area here we are pretty good there is another slightly low spot over here but I think that will even in when we go to do some finer scraping okay I just changed direction for this to get the remaining high spots okay I did in total certain passes on the surface and as you can see by the bluing it's even it's really very even to put hard to show on camera because the bluing is bit faint because I used a very thin layer of paint on the the surface plate but as you can see it's pretty much bearing on a whole surface I got only one low spot one real low spot right here but I think I can live with that but from that I'm very happy and when I wipe off the bluing you can see that I got somewhat of an even scraping pattern and it looks in my mind pretty good I'm very happy with it I scraped the outer edges or other surfaces of the base square and parallel to each other I didn't film any of this I will show it I will show the process of scraping something square to each other in the in and episode when we do the t-slot table and I will show and film the process of squaring to access to each other by scraping so the next episode we're going to bore open the pivot and we might start to work on the tilting top of it so hope this is interesting so far thank you all for watching and see you next time

Channel: Stefan Gotteswinter

Views: 46,749

Rating: 4.9708996 out of 5

Keywords: scraping, schaben, flachschaben, renz, biax, powerscraper, elektroschaber, angle plate, winkeltisch, adjustable angle plate, china, castings, gussteile, gussteilesatz

Id: 7_uBck-I3AY

Length: 27min 37sec (1657 seconds)

Published: Sun Apr 24 2016