Toe Clamp Completion.

[Music] foreign [Music] foreign me uh [Music] [Music] yes [Music] [Music] okay [Music] [Music] so [Music] oh [Music] uh [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] ah [Music] [Applause] uh [Applause] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Music] um [Music] [Music] [Applause] all right i need to take about 200 000 off the end of this screw and i'm just doing this manually [Music] oh by the way this is a this is just a a 5 8 11 socket head set screw i bought from mcmaster carr and all i'm going to do is i've got to stop in the collet here so that i can repeat the same dimension here and i'm just going to face it down [Music] close to where my zero is set this on this lathe this is my reference tool tool number one and so i set everything to zero on on this tool so i can i can read the display here on the machine and and know where i am in relation to z zero so i'm just gonna manually face it off i suppose i could put this in the program but i just i'm gonna do it manually [Music] that way i only got two tools running in the program the i'm turning this with a 35 degree diamond tool because i'm doing a thread relief with the same tool [Music] so i'm just taking little little cuts here got 32 more thousands [Music] this this set screw is kind of a little bit hard which is good i'm gonna i'm gonna face it within about two thousandths of the finished dimension okay now i'm going to change the tool number two which is this 35 degree tool come back up a little bit so you can kind of see what's happening here coming into memory let's start the program it's going to just take a facing cut this is um tap magic just kind of using it as a oil here don't have anything else well i could use molle d but i don't want to use that nasty stuff taking very little cuts this this insert has a very small tip radius on it so i don't want to take any real heavy cuts in this sort of hard material this hardened steel set screw is kind of hard i'll get some closer up pictures here too so this is just the roughing it here's the thread relief area we do a finish cut well that's the spring cut on the roping cycle and then we do a finish cut just kind of dabbing this uh tap magic on there okay that should be more or less a half inch in diameter which it is [Music] change to my uh 20 pitch thread insert here doing a half 20 thread that's it right there [Music] okay [Music] this is the little bronze nut the mating part just want to make sure it fits on here nicely which it does [Music] so that looks alright i'm going to um [Music] deeper things a little bit here if you're going to use a file without a handle on it on a lathe don't ever hold it like this hold it in your fingers if something catches on it flip throws it out of your hand it's not too dangerous here with a collet chuck but if you if you have a like a three jaw chuck or four jaw chuck up here don't hold the handle like this the file never do that in a lathe always hold it in your fingertips like this if it doesn't have a handle on it it would be better if it had a handle on it but this one doesn't so i'm not gonna it's got a safe edge on this side too [Music] i'm gonna pull this out a little ways see there's a pretty good burr right here on the 5 8 11 thread that was already there an attempt to um file that off i turn the file around it would help with it i'm running a spindle in reverse here as you can see to try to start on the thread and come this is kind of the hardest thing to deburr on on a thread because it's the last it's the last thread it's kind of hard to get the um the file on it with the we know with the turning like that okay now let's see this is the nut that the 5 8 um 11 thread goes in like this [Music] appear to have got the burr off of there now this is going to be in the other piece the mating piece like this but the reason i have to have a separate nut is i have to start this in here and and then put the part on there there's going to be two roll pins i haven't drilled the holes yet that get driven through here so when the whole thing's assembled it really can't come apart without driving those roll pins out and pulling apart we'll go through that assembly when it's time to assemble made one extra just in case i needed it for some reason uh uh [Music] so [Music] ah [Music] um so mmm [Music] so so so so [Applause] just to get the end harm that's all i'm really interested in is just to get the very end of this thing hard where those uh the serrations are i've got a little oil down here blanch it so we'll leave them leave them there for an hour or so i guess you need to make a little setup to drill these holes which are going to be these holes like that in this nut the way i've determined the easiest way to do this is to um use this piece here and make sure the nuts up against here by backing off this screw so first i get it a little bit loose so i can get it in there like that and then i back this screw up until the nuts up against the face of this other this other larger nut right here then i can stick it in here and put it in this little drill press vice like this with this this vise is reasonably square so i put the the other nut up against the face but see still the it won't it's not held in there yet so we got to add this i've been using this little um tie-down extension that i guess they call those things and i put it in here with this these can't twist um clam and get this on here in such a way that i can uh make sure that it it pushes everything against here so it's everything's tight now now i can go over to the drill press and just drill these holes through here at the drill press we're just going to drill these holes through here using the other piece kind of as a guide i'll be a little bit careful because we're intersecting that angled surface there so you gotta be gentle with it when we start and we'll break through [Music] quite possibly after if i have to disassemble this that's that's the reason that i uh i drilled these holes all the way through so if i drive the pins in from the top i can get a punch and drive them back out if i had to disassemble it for some reason so see that that'll go in and out of there without a problem if i remember right up 3 8 of an inch out i've set these at 3 8 of an inch [Music] and that screw needs to set [Music] right about there it doesn't have to be absolutely perfect but trying to get some grease here not make too much of a mess [Music] then i thread this nut on with this face this face up against the bigger nut [Music] till it bottoms out and i have to adjust just to make sure i'm all right here i'm going to thread this in until the the shoulder of the bigger screw bottoms out on that and see where i'm at here as far as the the distances travel i think i've got to back this off about right there i kind of got to get things all all adjusted correctly here all right now i think that's right i'm going to put it together on this see once this is all put together it won't come apart so i got to make sure i get it right so when i when i turn this out to its maximum travel i should i need a little bit more than an eighth of an inch here see that might be uh i might be able to uh move that in one half of a turn let me see yeah that that's that should be where it is right there so let me back it off until it's closed [Music] now i've got to drive these pins in here now i've kind of filed a little more of a chamfer on the front of this pin so it'll go in easier [Music] let me get it started here i've put this it's going to be kind of a little tricky to do i put this block here i clamped this uh 1 2 3 block against this 246 block so because it's going to tend to slide that way when i hammer on it put the other pin and set those just a hair below the surface probably can't see what i'm doing here very well because my hand's in the way and it's kind of blocking the light [Music] just like that now like i said i put these holes in here on the back side so i could drive those pins out i would probably need a little bit longer punch than this but anyway that's that's the reason i drilled them all the way through because this won't come apart now by itself without taking those pins out so when i start to adjust this inward you see see how the the nut moves back well the nut is going to be stationary when it's assembled and i should see i've got just about 145 000 so that's perfect right there that way i get i keep the most dread engagement in the nuts too if i adjust it that way so if we take the body of the clamp now the base we slide this in here i'm gonna i'm gonna start this a little bit forward so it's got a little clearance and then we put the two um shoulder bolts in that one that's the 5 16 one and i should have a quarter inch one here that goes in the back [Music] somewhere i put those wrenches i should be able to bottom these out because i think if i machine everything correctly they should come up against their shoulders and everything should still move let's just see okay yeah see so when when this thing is all the way fully extended it's there's still just a little bit of clearance on the base when it's back all the way see so it's traveling downward and it ended up being a seven to 17 and a half degree angle downward is when i drew that finish the cad part of this and it moves out an eighth of an inch that should be an eighth yeah see and actually with this compound screw you're not depending on any kind of uh springs or gravity or anything it pulls it actually pulls the jaw back when you loosen it as well as push it forward when you tighten the clamp so that's one finish let me put the other three together and we'll mount them on the machine and clamp something and see how it works now you can see what i need these clamps for these are pieces of titanium and the customer sent this material so i didn't have any choice but the the part is going to actually be only 3 8 of an inch thick out of this titanium plate and this is almost 800 thousandths i think it's about 800 000 thick so i have to face it off now you got to kind of be careful about this if you don't want the whole thing to warp on you you got to face equal amounts off both sides of the plate so this steel bar that i used for a previous setup down here i'm gonna i'm gonna cut it down to 3 8 of an inch with a step on it so that i can run my face mill across here and and these clamps now you can see why i intentionally made them so um short or in height where their um clamping fingers are down here you can see here because i need to get down there with the face mill facing these parts off this material [Music] and i know that you're saying all where you're wasting tons of material in your right but the customer sent it and this is what i've got to work with and so i've got to make the parts out of it even though it's way too thick in fact the part the piece of material was even this wide and about eight inches longer in length even we had to mill out this chunk out of it that's what they sent to work with so that's what we got to work with so i i didn't um i've kind of snugged these clamps down and this one and you see why i made the the um key on the bottom of the clamp so it would intersect this three-quarter inch t-slot in my table piece my my uh well this is actually the base to my tombstone i put it down on the um not the base to my tombstone but the base to my palate i use it to clamp parts when i want to clamp them onto the pallet themselves but i've clamped it on the tombstone here instead like you've seen in my previous videos and now i'm going to um slide this clamp down against here and tighten the screw nice and tight and then um clamp the jaw now this is like 1 000 times nicer than those previous clamps those those let me get [Music] and these these versions here now you can get these with thinner jaws on them like like i've made these but these have no feel at all to them when you're clamping it you know when you're tightening the clamp it's like this screw and i've explained that in the previous video on this subject how that that uh set screw gets galled up in there and and you can't have any feel for how tight you're tightening it but this this has a really nice feel to it you can really [Music] tell you know that you're putting some force down on that clamping finger or jaw so this is going to work i'm thinking this is gonna work really nice these clamps really are like a thousand times better than this this thing here although this is all you can um well you can buy this in a mighty bite version of this sort of with their little mighty bite clamp on the top of it but there's nothing really commercially available at least i haven't seen maybe there is and i just don't know about it but but uh this seems to be working very nicely maybe you can see i don't know there's still a little bit of a gap here i've intentionally moved these out about oh i don't know 30 40 000 away from their their backed off position and if my pieces of stock are uniform enough i should be able to leave those clamped on there and just back them off all the way and put the next one in they should be pretty good because these guys are on the other mill are actually milling this out of a bigger piece of material like i said earlier so i've got to face it down almost to those clamps there and this i've got to cut a notch i'm going to cut the ends off of this bar because i don't i don't need it any longer i needed it for those fixture parts the longer fixture parts but i don't need it anymore so i'm going to cut the ends off and i'm going to mill this down to the 3 8 of an inch of the finished thickness and what i'm gonna do when i prepare this material is i'm gonna i'm gonna probably cut about a sixteenth of an inch off of this space and flip it over and cut a sixteenth and i'm gonna keep flipping it back and forth taking an equal amount off of each face because if there's some kind of manufacturing stresses put in the faces of this stock if you take it all off of one face or maybe you take most of it off of one face and then flip it over and just skim the other face to get it cleaned up the part probably won't stay flat i don't know i haven't machined this material yet so i don't know for sure or or if i just cleaned this face up and flipped it over and brought it down to 3 8 of an inch i don't have a good feeling about doing it that way i don't think that's a wise idea i think i need to face an equal amount so that i get the the part actually out of the middle of the material [Music] so you

Channel: Edge Precision

Views: 71,488

Rating: 4.9446049 out of 5

Keywords: edge, edge precision, Mitsubishi, Mill, turn, mazak, integrex, mill turn, drilling, milling, turning, thread mill, clamp, titanium, assembly, job shop machine work

Id: xuvc09tNgnE

Length: 37min 36sec (2256 seconds)

Published: Fri Sep 10 2021