Grinding the V Block part 1

hello everyone back again what we have is we have this V block I'm going to have to grain this this goes on our spin fixture and in order to make that boring bar for Keith Rucker I'm gonna have to get this ground up what I had I made this originally out of DC 53 and when we send out the blocks at the squintern blocks that was DC 53 so I just said all the stuff all together for heat treat and that way we can share the cost with all that maybe you know this was ground kind of ruffian not just super precision but plenty good enough for what I was using before I mean I just wanted to show you that the squareness checker also it doubles real nice just as a indicator stand so I can come across there and see how much distortion I might have got out of heat treat of something really warped and way out so this surface right here after heat treat is within a thou and I don't have a fine adjust on this and the ones that we'll be making here in the near future I'll be making a find ingest but the way I do it now they just bury the indicator out tighten it down and then they can come in and then I can just kind of like that and you can see it falls off comes in and so I got just horsing around with it a little bit and then I can get it to indicate in with the fine adjust it would be a lot nicer for that but but having a Noga base and a fine adjust on that that will come in handy just as a nice indicator stand for checking your work in this manner and so anyhow what we're going to have to do we're going to grind this out and generally when you grind you want to pick your area that's got the most area though this surface right here and what I'll do is I'll grade everything to that so I'll set this down on the magnet first and then I'll just clean this up and then I'll flip it over here and this is where I got to be careful because I have very little holding there so I got to be careful when I grind because it's going to have a tendency to knock over this would be one of the rare occasions I might set a block up behind it to keep it from tipping so we'll see how what holds on the magnet I'll just get a feel for it but what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna get this surface in this surface I'm gonna get those two surfaces flat and parallel and then I'm gonna grind everything to that square it up I will take some cuts on the v's and what we're gonna do after we take some stock off the V and we get the V in real good I will be putting a test bar in here and I'll be measuring the squareness and what I'll do at that point I will grind outside the block again square to my V with with the test part in there because I find that's a lot easier than trying to hit this V just so super close because everything compounded when you grind on 45 or 45 like this it's hard to get it closer in a couple tenths 10 thousandths of an inch bill if I get my surface is real good and then through the block up to the V itself I can find I can hit it in you know under a ten a tenth of a thousands without too much issues what I did is I took this to our D bearing wheel wheel and I D bird the edge is already before I started and I like to do that because when I grind if I don't do it I leave sharp edges and then I got to come with a deburring wheel and then a lot of times you can see it feather into it this way it gives a nice cleaner edge so we'll get the three phase converter fired up and get the grinder going and then we'll get back with you and we'll start the first two surfaces [Music] when we was granted in the squaring blocks I feel the comments people want to know what will I finish the blocked out with I actually didn't change the wheel I used this wheel that's what I have on there right now but this is the 8 B P 46 H 800 vos and what it is it's a ceramic mix maybe we can take some of our pictures from my archives and then can't control your blow-up of that because we have it on some of our other tapes a bit it's a porous construction and you can see the little grayish blue and then you get the the purple in there but the grayish blue is the ceramic and then the purpose that's your aluminum oxide so it's a ceramic aluminum oxide mix and the reason I went with that and that actually here's a brand-new and that's what I should have started with but you can see it is quite porous and Kathy will we get some archives out chill going go and pull up some good pictures on that but anyways it works really good for roughing it works good for finishing if you dress it often and that's the key to get a nice finish on it which I got on that block but what you guys haven't seen on the camera was that I did dress that will quite often and this would have been the wheel I would have wanted to finish with and this is an RA a 46 1800 BL s so there's no ceramic in here Bend it's a lumen of oxide it's the Ruby aluminum oxide and it's got the poorest construction on it too and what this here grades a little bit freer with a little less heat a lot more forgiving and the finish is just a little bit better so the problem is is that these wheels the diameters getting down quite small right now Cathy's going to get me a scale they started out at 8 inches and when I'm doing the grinding like now they're about six inch when I'm gonna grind and stuff I like the 8 inch wheel and people will talk about what your surface footage is off a little bit there I'm not concerned about that but if I have what I'm looking at is the circumference on an 8 inch wheel is quite a bit bigger on the circumference that means I have a lot more cutting edges and so I have my best results my most accurate work best finishes using an 8 inch wheel and using agin with all the other variables a good dress good sharp diamond using the cluster diamond a lot of variables involved in there using the coolant so and you know I got the ceramic wheel in here because it did cut and it worked real nice for the cube I'm gonna just go ahead and keep it on here and we'll get this water draining and I have this on about 1/2 magnet right now I'm just a touch top I'm just gonna take a light shot and because this was pre ground and I was using this a soft state before we send it up for heat treat it should just need just a little tiny bit of cleaning up it shouldn't be that hard or that much labor and getting this thing really good well now I'm doing my tooth pinch path right here there was a good prank for about 50 Millions we'll do our cut slaughter traverse down on the Y just like we did on the blocks swearing block we just did and then when to take a cup of white fascist that way we can keep that nice and smooth the flatness everything will be good we will actually be using the square tube bug in order to grind this block square here squaring blocks will really come in handy is when you get a shape like this you if you brighten the right you can probably do a lot of the work enough and a tool makers place and then you get these oddball shades it's kind of hold them in not hard to hold get them help in there real nice and square putting shapes like this on the cube it's a piece of cake and one reason I'm draining the top here and the bottom is because I've got a slot on this side I get slot on this side where I can put a quarter 20 screw with the washer on and hold it what I want to do yeah I'm not sure if I'm good to my VZ er I got another idea I'll have to look I might not do the B part on the squaring cube I may do that move my special made B block just to show you all nice little work for doing this day forward with the light magnet this spins too easy and as I'm grinding it's going to be wanting to shift on me especially they hit out here with a leverage point is gonna be wanting to spin that's gonna make us unsafe situation there's a couple things that can do I can take something like this residual magnet on so does the slam down [Music] even worse and you'll get some in there I can put something like this or I can get something wider but this happens to be different height I can put that in there in and help back it what what uh and this is called blocking in and I'll do it in some cases and this is the case where I can go this way or what I would probably prefer to do is just go ahead and turn the magnet on on full magnet because I got enough length over here I already got this surface pretty flat there's a very little chance I'm going to have any any distortion from the full magnet on here and and I can come over here and I got to put a lot of pressure to turn that way more pressure than what its gonna take to grind so I get this on full mag now and I'm just going to come across with the blanks to ask where I left off just because it is sitting that's got a funny over here and if there's any high corner or anything I do wanna make sure that I can knock that off before and we didn't even touch but when you do grind something like this you don't want to take real heavy tests anyhow I'm only gonna take about five tents because you take a heavy cut it's on this backside and pushes down you don't want to start releasing from the madness this is the kind of stuff that you just got to develop a feel for from experience it can be dangerous if that would over and with catching that wheel and can send that off I mean it well it hit just right it can send it off with a lot of velocity and then you're gonna have wheels flying so so you got to be careful you know if you don't have the experience the number one you can get away with and and if you're using the fine grit wheel you know if you use an eighty a hundred grit wheel on something like this you're asking for trouble because look going to happen is that's gonna heat up real easy and as it heats up it's gonna fall into the wheel and want to pull it into the wheel it's gonna grab harder and you will be throwing that part off so one other reason in my life my 46 grit wheels I can get I can get a better finish than almost all the 60 grit wheel then you and I got a much freer cut here we got a tip stole and now we're just gonna try just to get about 50 minutes to account these are finish we'll get that all cleaned off and then we'll go to the granite table and see what we have this is a brown and sharp it's a it's a 1/10 1/10 thousandth of an inch in decatur but it's got a little half mark in between the 10th readings so they'll call them a 50 millions indicator and you can see that is writing really nice on that surface and so now we'll flip it over and we'll look and see what we get on this surface now and you see that needles not even moving nice smooth been in the finish a just came out awesome don't know if you can lump gonna just try to roll that around cat so that you can are you focused on it and just it's hard to catch that finish in the camera a lot of times that finished looks a lot better in the camera than it really is but this this is a super finish I'm real happy with it yeah so now we have this surface in this surface flat and parallel with each other well beyond what I'm going to need easy easy within a 50 millions and so what we're gonna do now I'm gonna get my my squaring block the one made out of 82 and I'm gonna set this up and what I'm gonna do is I'm going to try to set this up and so that I can drain this surface and I'm gonna grind this surface even though this surface really is going to be a non-functional I need it for a reference and so I just like to get the cleanups all around now I could grind this surface in this surface I can come back and try to grind this surface from here but I'd rather have the longer surface cleaned up off my block because I get a good tech hole and then I can sit this down on the magnet and I can clean this surface and that way I can get that surface in this surface parallel again this would be not that needed to be ground but I can get it a rough install and get it good here because this surface I want it running good and true to the block because this block even though it is sitting on my spin fixture for usage I'll be able to use this as a standalone block to I'll be able to use it like this I'll be able to mount it on my cube this way I'll be able to set it down on something for a reference on that side so so I want all these surfaces I'll even grain this bottom surface over here I want all that stuff flat parallel square really good okay here we're going to use the squaring block I'm going to use the hole and it works out just about perfect what I want I want to have this so that it's off the edge so I can drain that without touching that and then I want this off the edge and so I can put this one screw in here and I can get it good later on we'll be breaking out our little finger clamps and using those but for this I should be able to use the one screw one important thing I got to tell you is when you use these squaring blocks because they are 60 62 Rockwell and even though they're DC of 53 and they're much tougher than a 2 or d2 you still want to take your screw and you can see the gap that I have over here I want to have at least a quarter of an inch thread engagement in there if you have only one or two threads that are engaged if you just go one or two threads and you engage and then you try to put a lot of force on there I've seen people take their cubes and do this and I'd see them they would crack an entire section out of that and and pretty much destroy that areas are cubed so so for those of you who are buying these just remember get at least a quarter-inch of thread engagement I tap these down so that you've got almost an inch pretty close to an inch of thread so you can get a quarter inch down and still have over a half inch adjustment if you using your finger clamps so this is just a key point you got to remember and what I'm going to do is I'm going to get that just kind of snug down and I'm going to indicate it in here in a minute but what I like to do is I like to take this square it's a 45 90 degree square and I can come over here and I can just get that real close to being square just by being on top of here and then I can get it pulled out so I can I can get it real close that way Snug it up now that just happened kind of nice real quick it usually doesn't happen that good but think Uncle Murph you must have went on vacation hopefully here well anyways what we're going to do we're gonna see I'll square that got that just by using that 45 and he's and look at it it's it's less than 1/10 out that way we're 1/10 2/10 low and over here we're just about half a tenth high so I'm just gonna take this a little but I mean I can actually grind it in from there but this is how you would adjust it on your block so now we're about a tenth and a half low and we're about maybe we're within a tenth let's see what we got here well that looks less than the tents now what I'm going to do is I'm gonna snug that up real good other thing you don't have to really refuel really reef on your work you've got to get it in your head that this Steel's like rubber you squeeze in it and it's going to deflect I want this tight enough that it's not going to move but I don't want to so tight that I'm deflecting the steel when you start getting into you know a few tenths tolerance and stuff just the amount of pressure you tighten there can really affect things and so so you just got to keep that in mind now a piece of rubber it obviously will smash in but to steal it it does move even though you can't see it with a naked eye to will it will move on you and it will distort and so then you grind it when it's in is when it's distorted you loosen your screw up well now now your distorted in in the grain itself and that stays real good we're easy with in attempt and if I'm distorting that piece once I grind it here and I loosen the screw and the surface is distorted when I grind this other side without screw pressure on the magnet I'll be able to tell the difference from one side to the other whether I distorted it or not so we'll set this up in this case I'm not going to use coolant and fill these holes up so I'm gonna take it real easy that's one of the other reasons I got it within a tent I know that I'm going to end up with a bowl but I'm gonna have a high side here and the high side here so when I flip it over on the magnet I can turn the coolant on I can grind that nice and flat and then I can flip it back over and just take that 50 millions bowl or whatever and we get out of there so that's going to be a whole lot better than spending a lot of time getting that out of here all these holes and what I've done is I took a fresh dress on this wheel because I know I'm gonna dry grind and this is where I would definitely prefer the other wheel that doesn't have the ceramic in but working we're going to make this work again like I say if I could get my high points on both ends it will automatically come out square and flat on the other side and then when I put it on the magnet I can I can grind it and get it this side flat for that side flip it over and I can write whatever slate ball I may have in there so what I'm doing right now it's just gonna be a lot less work than letting this with cumin cleaning all these holes out and blowing that because they always leak and they get in the way and it it can save you a lot of time on a project like this so I just touched off a lot of times when I drag line like this I won't even do a cleanup I'll just get another point the contact that I want clean up I'll get them cleaned up flip it over grind a full-contact then flip it over and grain that and then it comes out good so this is just another method that I use that saves me a lot of time when I'm grinding and so right now we've got a nice clean up in this area we're touching a little bit here touching a little bit there and a little bit shy in that area so we're just gonna try to take about another kemp's off and see what that sparks right there I know I'm throwing some heat in there but we do have a full cleanup what we'll do is we'll throw this back on the granite when I'm done and we'll throw the amp on and we'll see if we can meander a dip in the middle it doesn't take much more than a few degrees difference then your room temp here over here to affect the reading but right now we've got pretty much 100% clean up what I'm doing is I'm feeling this I'm comparing it with my block I can feel just a few degrees different in there or a nodal smoke I should say that it's not like it's really hot so what I'll do a lot of times when I got that and I know there's more heat in there than I want what I'll do is I'll wind over here because this wheels turning this way it's throwing down call the air so I'll whine this over and I'll let that cool air just hit on that and bring that down a little bit because from here on out I'm gonna try to take less than 50 millions out of pass on there just to smooth it out a little bit if you dry grind and you use a few little tricks like this you'll be surprised how good you can get that and sometimes you can get it just spot-on but you have to work at it if you're wanting to get this lesson it's 110 thousandths of an inch flat and then it's really hard to do with without cooling what I'm going to do is I'm just going to come across now I let it cool a little bit and I want to see if I can see any sparks and I can see just a few little sparks the ships were about 50 million sand indicator did well did go down 50 but it doesn't look like that I'm seeing anything here and I can see it's hot over here I'm not hardly touching in the back I can hear they can't see spark over here I can see the spark so I'm gonna feed down at this side is where I want to feed and come back the other way and that looks pretty good even all the way across so I'm just gonna do a boring pass at a few times and what we're going to do now we're going to turn this block at 90 degrees because if everything worked out real good because this block is square and this is flat here we just ground this surface off this block so this surface should be as squares what then the block is and now when we turn it up at 90 degrees we can grind this surface over here that will be working from in the reference surface and that should make it square to this side and it should make it square this way so so if everything works out right we'll have this block this back side this side in this side in this front side will be also clear of parallel with each other with the extreme close topic of tolerances here hopefully less than a tenth of an inch touch stop pretty heavy so we'll just take it easy we probably touched off about five ten thousandth of an inch but you see that was pretty square to begin with but again it was it was ground up real nice before he treated her using it the soft state acting we kind of nice to have at the Harvard State now a little bit low on that site with a little surface like this wait less chance of generating a lot of heat pull it over here let the air flow come down with that scent for just a little bit we'll take it to the Granite let's see how it looks okay what a what I ended up doing is uh I ground and I checked it and I didn't have the bolt but I had a steady tape or on both sides and I get that sometimes and so I Kathy had to go in the house for a little bit and so I just set it back up on the grinder and then I turned the block 90 degrees to work that out because I wanted to get flat and so I'm sorry I didn't get that on camera that's why I'm telling you about it now before we're grinding that way and then I ground this way so we should see a bowl this way but it actually come out pretty good and I don't know Kathy can you get in here and see these little marks with your dry grinding it is hard to get that perfect finish you can you can see they look like just purely a little tiny burn marks but I mean I'm not even taking fifty millions off on a pass on that and so the technique that I've used before where you saw me painting on undiluted coolant would probably make that finish top isn't probably eliminate all that if I have to do some more drug training I think I'm going to try that just out of my own curiosity but anyways we'll get back over here I got the amp set at 250 millions and we'll get that adjusted down to zero and you can see where it looks just taking a guess maybe ten millionths so with dry grinding you can see we come out within 50 millions and what we'll do is I'll kick this up to each of these lines now we're on the most sensitive from here to here is one ten thousand so from here to here is fifty millions from here to the next big marks gonna be 25 millions so it gets kind of hard it wants to bounce around we'll just see what it looks like and each of those lines represent five millions right there we're probably close to 20 millions hi if I set it there so if I just stop we're at 10 million side play stop we're about almost 25 and but minus ten minus five so we'll check this other side and like you say that there's more than close enough than what I want less than a one ten-thousandth without a problem bring this back down to the 50 Millions and we're back on the 50 million seven setting yeah so it rides up there pretty darn good it's it's showing that that's that sides really close we kick over to the 5,000,000 Samarth yeah so you can see that's that's within easy 25 millions on there so we got a nice reference here this should be now as squares what this block is in both directions so within that 50 millions easy within 1/10 and so a lot of this work is is done as far as getting my reference sites I get this side as a reference I get this size the reference to this side of the reference so now I don't even need my cube I can just set it down on that side dust this side off I can set it down on this side this side and dust this side off and once they get those dust off then I'm going to set this up for B block and I'm going to grab it some of the older subscribers will recognize this again it's one of my favorite tools right here but I got a nice very high precision Vblock got a nice counterbored holes in here counter bore holes in here holes in the side and some tapped holes so this this thing comes in handy I can mount it to just about anything of I want them to my own tools I can mount it to this cube make a big gue snacks out of it so what's going to be nice over here once I get both sides ground I get this bottom ground I'll be able to set this up in here and then now I'm going to be able to grind this surface and to get that nice and central all they have do is flip it around and grain that surface so now I got my 45 degree angle established and I'll have my central that's established and it'll work out really nice and we probably won't get to that point in this video what I'll play do off camera I'll go ahead and get this squared up over there and then the next video will actually show setting up in the V block over over here to grant this V and it really makes short work out of it another way that you could grind that V is if you wanted to mount it to this cube I could mount it and hang it out like that and then I can grind a V and then I can flip it over 90 degrees and find a grain the B bit and then it's going to be hard to hold the simpleness on there but I can get the angle established very good in the squareness very good on here by by grinding in the V block not only am I going to get the angle good in the squareness good I'm also getting into central ness of the V to the sides here really good it would be a lot easier doing it in the V block then what we're going to be able to do on this block so this would be part one of this video we've got the preliminary stuff set we got three nice reference sides that will end up draining the rest of the block and we'll do that in the part two of the video

Channel: Solid Rock Machine Shop Inc.

Views: 11,922

Rating: 4.9623823 out of 5

Keywords: Vblock, flatparallelsquare, squaringblock, dc53, a2toolsteel, square, surfacegrinding, surfacegrinder, radiacgrindingwheels, radiac, grinder, tool, tools, toolmaker, tooling, machines, machining, machinist, olympusem1, olympuscamera, indicator, brownandsharpeindicator, squarenesschecker, federalamplifier

Id: vmDuXSAP0Jk

Length: 39min 14sec (2354 seconds)

Published: Thu Dec 06 2018