Emco Super 11 Change gears, gearcutting and threading

[Music] hey welcome back I have to turn this went screw here turned out of aluminium and it has sealing taper here and an m8 by 0.75 millimeter fine pitch shred here and to keep it all nice and concentric I want a single points threat this fine thread so let's go to life and set it for for a correct pitch that's the feet gearbox of the lathe turning feeds lengthwise and they should take it multiplied by 0.5 it's the facing feet we have metric and we have imperial threads per inch we were interested in metric of course and let's see we have pontocho points three five four point five point six point seven point eight dang it there is no no point seven five millimeter pitch on this machine and that we can turn which is quite annoying I've seen it on a lot of machine that one pitch is always missing so let's see what we can do okay that's the chart for threading odd numbered threads metric module for metric warms diametrical pitch for imperial warms and additional imperial stress today we want to cut metric fine thread there it is 0.75 we need to add an additional set of gears 40 and 80 as one as a combination gear and we need a 95 to gear in addition so we need 95 80 and 40 I do not have those I have a after 90 F 30 and I have a 127 and a 124 metric Imperial conversation so dang it seems like we have to make a bunch of gears as phenolic linen reinforced phenolic it's an interesting material you can get it in sheet form and you can get it in raw material should get the sheet material it's layer after layer of linen put on top of each other and it creates a very robust very solid plate which is very strong in X Y direction if you look tough down on it but in C direction it's less robust because it can delaminate if you get the round stock which I do not have here it's it's wound up it's like taking a piece of cloth and roll rolling it up like this to create something that almost looks like a tree trunk you can gear us or made out of plate material if you use the round material the the rolled material the layers are right at the teeth it's a quick sketch you have your roll material it has like almost like a grain that goes like this and I imagine that you put in your teeth like this then you have these layers going through the teeth that means the teeth will break at the layer intersection these are two of the em coach changed gears these are made out of cast iron hence the cast look here and the phenolic I have is the same thickness the tendon the phenolic and these change gears are also ten millimeters I have a full set of module one gear cutters you need a full set because depending on the number of teeth of Geir the shape of the teeth change a little bit and with a full set you can span everything from something like 12 teeth at a minimum up to an infinite number of teeth which would be a rack a linear gear and these are module one because the gear cutter your fits so now we figure out how to cut these gears okay here we find everything for a standard spur gear that we need first and foremost our interest is da which is the most outer diameter because we need to turn these blanks down to diameter so we can cut the teeth and or is it da is module which is in our case one x number of teeth C plus u in our case that we have 40 oh sorry where English here 40 teeth 80 teeth and nine five teeth module one so we can ignore this here so we just have to take number of teeth plot plus two so this is 42 millimeter diameter this is 82 millimeter diameter and this is 97 millimeter in diameter these are the diameters were going to prepare and we need a 19 millimeter bore in the along with a four millimeter keyway I have never tried key slotting in the phenolic I will probably do a fake keyway after we drilled the 90 millimeter through hole I will mill a keyway in here with a 4 millimeter and mill I act that when we try to broach this were slotted with a slotting cutter we will get a lot of blow out down the backside we don't want that okay Rove at the milling machine and have a large parallel here to one to three blocks that we've dropped my part on top of it and use two of these cantilever clamps which a lot of people ask where I get these from these are sold through hoffman group and our super high quality were nicely made with a trapezoidal screw instead of a normal screw dread that sixty degrees I just marked the rough center here felt marker and I'm aligning my my drill here I take the drill out and replace it with a with an 18 millimeter rotor broach core drill or annular cutter or whatever and most plastics they have to be a little bit careful with these drills because they tend to grab so we will use to find feed of the quill not the quill handle running relatively slow so we do not stir up a ton of dust and I'm going to use shot back there you go usually the slug falls out without an ejector pin but the phenolic is a little bit weird in that regard and does not want to fall out because it tends to together a little bit compressed during the cup and after to cut it expands and it jams itself in could be worse Punk back in there we go now we switch to a boring head and board - 19 millimeters see CMT boring bar with a razor sharp polished insert for aluminium okay there we go 18 millimeters now we can adjust our cut 10 let's go to 50 measure and then take a final cut should should be possible to cut this in one or two passes to find lemon cutting pressure in phenolic is not crazy high with a free cutting tool like this running at 580 rpm in this case I'm able to sneak the two-point internal mic around the boring bar so it clears which is very convenient otherwise I would use telescope engages in this case the two-point ID mic is okay this is eighteen point three five millimeters so we adjust by 0.5 point 1 and point 5 to point 2 that should give us 1902 millimeters diameter hopefully [Music] I switched 2000rpm just to have it cut a little bit freer that was easy 1902 just as just just the dimension I said it - I really like the evil laughter bring it we will not disturb the setting because when I do the next two I will not have to do any adjustment that will just put the boring head in take my cut and that stump should be on final damage boring bar deflection in this material at this rpm and this depth of cut should be small enough not to be a problem now we need a formula with carbide mmm we will cut the key way right away [Music] Neuros a 4-millimeter keyway quick-and-dirty okay over at the leaf and I have straight shank Tarver and said 20 millimeter shank and the 16 millimeter diameter here and a fine thread here for a nut to clamp whatever you put on here securely in place and to accommodate four different diameters I make these bushings out of whatever I have at hand this is 16 millimeter ID and 19 oh D the slips right over here then you indicated in use the set through feature of the fixed jaw to get it on center or you have a four jaw independent chuck in that you can use that to true it up but I prefer the six jaw foremost work and then Burke slips right over and I just need a spacer ring to fill up this this gap here that's 22 millimeter ring of a of a large of a mill or burr will do of course this has a little bit sign of side place so I'm just rough aligning its and it kind of runs true ish same for the washer just so it doesn't introduce a whole lot of imbalance we're not running this at warp 9 anyway so it should be fine turning tool wise I'm going to use a again I'll mininum insert when I say aluminum insert it's of course the carbide insert just the geometry for you get my tool here the dust from from the phenolic is anything but healthy so I'm definitely going to use dust extraction catcher most of it as you can see the larger chips still flow by I'm not worried about these I'm worried about the fine dust that settles in your lungs and on every surface in the shop it's 20 microns oversize should be okay should be definitely okay because on the change gears you set the gear mesh manually anyway everyone comes off space rings come off and our gear blank comes off too there we go first one robot milling machine of my rotary table with indexing plates and I have a 16 millimeter standard mill or burr here in the more steeper to socket and I'm using the same 16 20 millimeter bushing that I used before on my life over here on this mill Arbor and I put the phenolic blank over it I used a bunch of spacers and m8 screw to pull everything together check the run-out perfect defined well within 20 microns and I already selected the correct gear cutter this is a number six module one number six because going by by a chart number six is suitable for 35 to 54 teeth and this is the 40 teeth gears of your right in it I have a gauge block stack this represents the Center height of my rotary table that's the dimension I just know it's this cutter is four millimeter wide so putting the cutter on Center will be a fairly simple affair just going to drop this on here like this until I make contact Sarah Mike will Dro unless the gauge block stack drop down additional two millimeters and lock Mike will and that's my position my Center high the cutter at Center height off axis of rotation of my rotary table next we will have to touch off on the diameter there we go touched off why director zero this is the calculation for the for the indexing plate rotary table is ninety to one and I want 40 teeth so if we try to reduce the the lower number to a number that I have an indexing plate for that's in my case 20 so 40 divided by two is 20 and we have to divide 90 by two we end up with 45 we have to go 45 holes on a 20 hole taxing plate for each tooth that goes down to two full revolutions plus five holes I did a test couple with sweet teeth now and you already can see the fine dust produced by this where there's material so we're definitely going to use dust extractor for this too I'm too young to ruin my lungs and even if you're old you're too old to ruin your lungs [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] okay we went one time full around and we didn't up with half a teeth left or Edition looking good so now we can pull this gear off here and see you see how it meshes here you can see the blowout from the cutter or created this fuzzy burr or take a thread get rid of this later there's the gear this is the original 120 teef gear of my leave and then this feels good I'm not worried so I pull this off and you can see the actual stack up of these parts a little bit longer screw would be nice it was a little bit small engagement length now we can pull off the gear and here is again the 16 millimeter Arbor and this is the 16 20 millimeter bushing I was talking about looks like a gear to me got all three tiers cut this is the 95 teeth one and as you saw it also came out with no half teeth extra so good sign let's take it off and skipper it found a good way to deburr them relatively quick the a small wire brush steel wire brush works very well for deburring I'm using it in the flex shaft handpiece because this has a lot of low-speed torque compared to my small electric die grinder so just turning it around like this and keeping it in contact the remaining work will be done with a small diamonds point and the pneumatic die grinder and it will just follow the the contour of the gear with it that will put a nice small chamfer on either each of the teeth in the last video somebody asked what this die grinder is this is a px pneumatic die grinder 60,000 rpm really a nice nice tool but it takes a ton of air [Music] I'm using a teardrop shape and when I put this in in a gap between two of the teeth it starts out here on the larger diameter of the teardrop shape and when I pull it towards me it automatically automatically moves down the sides of the teeth and puts a nice chamfer on it until I when it hits the bottom of the teeth here then I can fully get out and it even puts a small radius on here so that's a very fast way to deburr these wheels or and put a nice chamfer on them little jump forward in time I made a few parts offline because I want to get them done and filming takes about three times as long forever sing so I needed another excellent sleeve for the change gears because when you do non-standard threats on the EMCO you need an additional gear so I duplicated the original one the everything here is 42 chromoly pre hardens heat treated steel which makes it very durable all everything's just turned shaft with lubrication one grease fitting here this goes on here and you have this washer and not with with the square knot it bolts to the banjo to change gear banjo and you put your change gears on two at a time there of course key down to the shaft then you take your finally knurled fine thread nut here and secure the gears to the sleeve and once you tighten this down the sleeve is still free to rotate that has about 0.1 millimeter fan to play so it spins freely on the axle and does not bind up and create a very entertaining situation so this is the new change gear bolt put a phenolic change gear so let's mount it on the lathe I think we can do this whole setup with one 13 millimeter wrench first we disengage the change gear pen your banjo Joe by opening this one nut down here then we take off to change gears from this one bolt here you you move this one out of the way and we take our second change gear bolt and we mount it to this lower slot here get the square nut behind it and we threat this together just like this and we move it all the way out so we have room to work now we need a 42-year this will make contact with this 90 teeth here get our gear meshing nice and yeah a lot of people use a strip of paper between the teeth to get the gear mesh right but usually this is fine yeah yeah these phenolic gears will look like we'll get a nice covering and grease after a few occasions now we can add on the 80 teeth here there we go now we need a 95 gear that meshes with this one the problem is doesn't work because we need a spacer behind it so I think we can use just one of the spare years here's a spacer now should work out if we can clear the belt there go now we need those two gears to match mesh the two phenolic gears there we go and now we meet this 95 gear to mesh with this 30 teeth gear up here but for that we need to to swap the skier around because now it would mesh with this large cast iron gear which I'm just using as a spacer okay we need a second wrench as annoying as change gears are the way em coated is on this machine is reasonably painless if I can get this gear here off there we go so now drop the spacer behind the gear like this get the gear in place washer not just a screw not mount it yeah and now can swivel the hole change gear banjo in place yeah okay this doesn't work we need we need a smaller spacer than this one 20 teeth gear here dang it's such a beautiful spacer bushing there we go here and will not hold it all together there we go that meshes nicely now we can bring these in contact there we go now we spin it by hand as looking promising let's give both of these posts a little bit of lubrication let's let's let have it run yep sounds like change gears not too bad looking good I'm really pleased yes I put a lot of extra work for in the in these gears and the axle and stuff like that just for a single part but sooner or later I will need this this additional change gear shaft and gears anyway so now is a good as good time as ever to make it now finally after cutting the gears making the axle I can cut the thread I prepared the diameter of 8 millimeters unfortunately I do not have a thread gauge so I'm using an m8 five point seven five millimeter fine thread not let's let's see I already said lay for 0.75 millimeter pitch okay I took a first skim pass and I'm checking with 0.75 millimeter thread gauge and looks good to me but let's let's continue get some cutting oil on there there we go it's a little bit tight so I'll I'll take a spring pass I'm very pleased that's a nice point seven five millimeter thread so now I can't after I finish the threat here I can continue on turning the OD this OD here finished I left this a little bit fat because if I turned it already down to ten millimeters the cutting pressure of shredding the part would have caused a lot of deflection possibly okay I think that's it for this project make enough to change gears and adapting them to the machine but probably the most interesting the rest of this is plane turning so the twin derson and thank you all for watching and see you next time you

Channel: Stefan Gotteswinter

Views: 63,155

Rating: 4.9679513 out of 5

Keywords: emco super 11, emco maximat, emco, gearcutting, zahnradfräsen, gear, phenolic, optimum mb4, dividing head, rotary table, indexing, rundtisch, hartgewebe

Id: WzdvJ19KrK0

Length: 34min 33sec (2073 seconds)

Published: Sun Jul 14 2019