Modifying a cheap clamp knurler Part 1- Umbau einer Rändelzange Teil 1

hey welcome back to the shop you might remember this guy this is he says a pipe clamp button that I showed in one of my shop Talk videos I will put a link to the video right here and while it's pretty rough finished and the the northern wheels have quite a bit of wobble to them it produces pretty good results but as I sat back then I will improve this thing I will make it a high quality tool I got some knurling wheels made by choice these are made in Germany and really high quality and I got diameter 20 millimeters 8 millimeters wide with a 6 millimeter bore and that's a standard size I got to 130 degrees to the left and 130 degrees right that produces a diamond pattern this is a point seven millimeter pitch on here is about the one millimeter pitch and this is for most of the stuff I do too rough so I prefer the more fine and early deep end before the knurling wheels are pressed in and they look like they're knurled themselves and then press them normally there would be no way to exchange these but will press them out or hammered and out then we will Rhema Sheen the bores and make axles for for the wheels that can be changed without having to use a press and also we're going to make a new pin a new swiveling pin with with yeah you know one that fits better than a sausage sausage in the hallway apart from that I don't think that we're going to do very much main thing are the inner lling wheels because they have a horrible amount of run out but still they work pretty good that's the funny thing so let's get started and see if we can get these pins out okay I have the first pin of it and as I was thinking these these pins or no than one side and then pressed in so they come out pretty easy you just have to look where it in earliness and that case it's on this side so we this goes down and I have just a piece this is an old inner ring of a big bearing central role appearing and they support over it you can drive that pin the two pins and while we're at it we're also going to press out this rear pin which holds this this is right around the adjusting screw [Music] okay there's a straight pin without nerdly this was just pressed in pretty hard in fact way harder than the axles off the urban wheels that's we have pins with a bore of 6.35 that has to be some inch measurement I think that's about four of an inch not in my shop really so you will have of course a six millimeter bore and the force and the arms also have six point six point inch something millimeters so what we're going to do is [Music] going to machine a bushing that we can drop in there was not much for some weird contraption I think these slots are also too wide these are nine point five six this should also be some inch crap I think we're going to machine pushing for each arm that goes on the inside a bushing like this this will go on the inside the the stepped step will be inside so the opening gets reduced to eight millimeters that's the width of this wheel and then we're going to serve a solder this this bushing in place and then we will bore it open to six millimeter and hope that everything holds but for that we will have to open up these holes to maybe seven millimeters we have two millimeters of meat left on the sides that's a bit too I have to think about this hey I decided what to do I'm going to fill up these fours completely with the TIG welder and then I take a piece of cold rolled I'm going to silver saw it to one side of this cutout and I will even it out by hand just filing it to follow the form of of this curve then I will take both of the arms stand them up right in the middle machine and run cut us through them and and mill and cut them exactly - with off our wheel then it will lay it down and drill and dream new fresh holes at least that's the plan Judy well to build up on wars I took a piece of 10mm in a square copper and I filed it so that's a snug fit into the slot I might use a hammer to get this in here I go the copper will draw away some of the heat and also will will stop the world from falling through the bore so let's go over to a Weiss and fire up the welder yeah I got a crazy amount of bubbling on this one I think that's because the air couldn't escape because of the copper on the other side yeah I hope this I tries to avoid this by feeding in more wire so it cooks out the bubbles but I'm not sure if I was successful I think it will still do the chop and of course I have to come back and do the inside too because I couldn't reach down onto the copper I'm not for sure that's not going to be an x-ray prove wealth when we machine it what happened on one side that will be a plate solvent in anyway so that's an additional support and pen will be stationary in the in these arms or in divorce the gnarling wheel will turn on it so it's not super critical I hope this works oh okay I'm going to hand file these welds now we need to machine them in the milling okay I set it up for breathing or silver soldering in that case and I tack weld the piece that I'm going to saw her and place with the TIG welder so it doesn't move all around already put on the flux know all that's left to be done is to pick it up and get some sort of solder on it okay the silver solder sucked really deep into the into the gap between my two pieces and I think that's good enough it's hard to miss a joint that's done by braising or silver solving as long as you have enough flux on there and you get everything up to heat it's hard to mess it up you see even the first order is flowing and it pulls itself into the gap and you know this is going to be a good joint okay except the parts up on the milling machine I have an angle plate on the table and that bolted be the clamp Narula against it in a standing position so I can eat around a six molar dent middle along the end of these of these two arms to ream oisin the slot width of eight millimeters and I'm using the six millimeter carbide shree fluted and I'm going to go back and forth and go each time lower the cutter a little bit not too much because I worried that something is going to move on the setup but everything seems to be quite solid but why take chances we have time this is not a race okay we were running at a thousand rpm we lock the table in position [Music] we're good to go [Music] [Music] I roughs down 56 Louisville end mill and I can cut a slot to a width of 8 millimeters plus a little bit to give me some air some duty room for the for the knurling wheels but there's really this setup has proven to be more richer than I was thinking I was hand feeding because I was not sure about setup I wanted to feel the cut now I'm going to use the perfect for finishing [Music] and this is where your power feeds really makes life easier you don't have to crank all the time to cut down to remove the material you can't just stand there watch and drink your coffee and enjoy life so it should be 0.6 millimeters material left and the thickness of the slot that means points three on each side to a nominal size of eight millimeters and we're going to measure it right now because you never know even if the arrow say SAS that this law should be seven point four millimeters I prefer to measure it and of course this is only with calipers this is not yeah seven point four one millimeters that means point six millimeters are left that means point three per side and I'm going to machine the slot to point two 8.05 so I have five hundredths of a millimeter waiting room for the wheels I will do roughing 28.0 zero and then to a client cut to eight point of five millimeters the battery of the camera crapped out on me and I finished the slots off-camera and as you can see I got a pretty decent fit there they fit freely but without any slop so we can tear down this setup and you can see the two slots and the material we sorted on there now we can trim the excess material down by hand with a file okay we're just talking down the material with the [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] okay we crimp down the excess material to the counter off the part without any machine use just by filing and you can see pretty good the split line between the part we said we put in there and the base part and when you help these two parts up together you can see that we have a slot very nice in line that means that means that our gnarling yields will line up quite nicely later when we have drilled and reamed the holes for the pretty axles and also we are going to ream oisin this poor because as you can see the finish in there is pretty crappy okay I did this off-camera I laid out the position of the pivot holes only axial holes for the for denoting wheels and I just sent a drilled pre-drilled and ring on to six millimeters and just a lie I sent a punched it and lined it up by eyes there is no particular position okay I got you to knurling wheels and to dollop in six minutes all pants pressed in to get look how I fit all together and of course the pin drops out as you can see the the knurling wheels line up quite nicely and I was in that direction they line up pretty good good enough what I absolutely don't like is this here it is this comes from the scrappy bolt which has a shoulder of twelve point one seven and bore in these parts are twelve point eight that's about 6/10 of air that's a bit much that's a bit bit much slop even in my shop and also the board this part this nine point seven and it's riding on this rat which is nine point three there was also an incredible amount of slack just don't like this okay right now we're in the process of drilling and tapping one of these legs so we can use a set screw to go excellent place and ask this is a strangely formed part and can't really touch off in the x-direction anywhere I'm going to use a pin that we push into the two bores and now we have a reference where we can touch off so we're using our small edge finder to find the edge of the doll pin just make sure we don't hit anywhere I always like to touch off two times and look at the Dro or at the CNC control if you're running a CNC machine and check if there is any discrepancy between the first and the second time you're touching off and now we can Center these on this width and by the way thank you for mentioning the 1/2 function DRO I was not aware that you can actually divide the actual reading by two with a simple push of the button without using the calculator so thank you for that hey Cyril come over shame on outside work off too okay we want to to Center on the y-axis and I touched off on the first sight zeroed and this is the reading of the second touch of and we want to divide this behalf and previously I showed this by using the calculator and pulling the result of to calculate over in the desired axis but that's not necessary I learned that there is a way easier way it's choosing the axis in that case Y and pressingly 1/2 but done that's faster so thanks thanks to all that pointed that out in the comments maybe it's time to read the manual completely but this the the manual of the digital readout is written horribly really apart from that the this Nitron dro is really great unit I have no problems with it it's it's like doing exactly what I expect from the gyro so I would buy it again well we are using a center drill in that case because because just because nah yeah and while I was drilling I made up a reason why I used the center drill it's way shorter and way stiffer than he started real and it's it's easier to start on this is kind likely on a slope and start a drill when I chuck it in these and the keyless chuck it sticks out quite a bit and it tends to walk away on not flat surface so there is a reason why I used the sounded rope tap drill and you're here there's noise disk attack attack this is what beats up your drill bits that's the reason why I normally use a star a drill yeah an NC starting drill the center and grill is not really for centering drill bit not really this is for lathe Santa's okay let's change to a chronometer tap em for thread change to low layer get the chips out of the way and okay I took and two tall pins and I shortened them on the d-pad grinder and I ground flat on here and that way I can mount the nerdling wheel without any protruding head of a pin or something like that that means that I can roll up to a shoulder or up to the chuck about about four millimeters close to a narrative stack like Chuck Charles that's not too bad as you can see just put the nerdling wheel in you take your pin drop it in get close make sure that the flap is aligned on top and tighten down the set screw I didn't want to press the pins in because I want to be able to change in Erling wheels to have finer or coarser Norling wheels or straight or 45-degree pad or not whatever I don't want to use on a hammer all the time you change the wheels even if I change them only once a year also these is nerdling wheels where also you have to be able to change them you

Channel: Stefan Gotteswinter

Views: 49,843

Rating: 4.9451518 out of 5

Keywords: rändelwerkzeug, rändelzange, clamp knurler, knurling tool, brazing, silver soldering, tig welding, hartlöten, silberhartlot, optimum mb4, f45, zx7045, rf45 mill

Id: 07DmoAJirm0

Length: 35min 39sec (2139 seconds)

Published: Wed Sep 16 2015

Reddit Comments

[u/User1-1A]

I love this channel, a real gem.

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Manual and cnc machining, a lot of miniature machining, some minor fabrication work and a lot of shopmade tools. Working as a machinist in a prototyping shop I run a cnc router and do CAM work for a living. In my homeshop I can work as slow and inefficient as I want and give some honour back to the old manual machines like the shaper and the pantograph milling machine.

[u/YOUREABOT]

what's so bad about the inch it put man into space. works just as good as the mill . great video as normal cant wate to see part 2