How to use Angle Blocks

so I want to show you guys a handy tool that's pretty darn cheap this is a set of angled blocks and this set actually goes from quarter degree all the way up to 30 degrees over here so I have quarter half and then one two three four five and then from there it goes by ten degrees 10 15 20 25 and 30 now you've also got the complementary angles so the 30-degree triangle is 30 there and 60 there likewise we have 25 65 20 70 so on so forth now these are great for setups in the middle for angling apart rather than angling the head you can also use these to add to each other or subtract from each other so for instance if I wanted 33 degrees I could take my three degree triangle and my 30 degree triangle and I could put them together if I needed 27 degrees I could turn my 3 degree around and Bob's your uncle I've got 27 degrees now these aren't as accurate as a sine bar per se nowhere near actually but they'll get you within the degree probably and probably more like half a degree and in most cases that's totally fine for some reason this set doesn't have a 45-45-90 but you know you can buy those separately they're not very expensive they also make a set of angle blocks that has notches and them angled notches so it looks just like a little parallel and has a cutout at the particular angles that we're looking at so it goes from quarter half and then one two three four five and it actually all goes all the way up to 45 degrees I don't own a set of those because they're a lot more expensive than these they're about seventy dollars I'll just grab a picture of one off the internet and put it into the video right about here so one problem I have sets is the thickness they are just over a quarter of an inch stick there are 255 thousands on all the ones that I measured and that's just a really inconvenient size because sure they want them to not fall over while you're trying to set things up but they end up being thicker than a quarter inch piece of material which is something that I commonly work with so one of these days I'm going to set them all up on the surface grinder and and skim about 10 thousandths off in the meantime I'll show you what you can do to to get around that if you do have a thickness issue so in setting these up you would take whatever angle you want in this case I've got a 15 degree block and you can put it down in your vise you bridge the gap in between the ways or you put it all the way over to one side whatever you need to in order to get the clearance that you need you can also set it up on parallel so it sets up higher if you've got a smaller piece and then you would take your material and you'd put it down on top of that now your material in this case is is angled by 15 degrees and like I said before you can add and subtract so if you needed 17 or whatever you would just put in the appropriate blocks now here's where those notched angle blocks are nice because you can see my part is sliding all over the place that knot would basically act like a V block just at a different angle than 45 you would then go ahead and clamp the vise on this now here's where I was talking about the thickness this is quarter inch diameter brass it's even a little oversized but if I were to clamp the vise right now it would be clamping the block instead of the material what I do in situations like this is grab something soft either a piece of thin aluminum something like that or grab a notepad this is the thin cardstock on the backside of a notepad you can just cut a little piece off and then put that in between your vise jaw and your part even if this was clamped a little bit on to the angle block itself it would still be ok because the cardstock is soft enough that it's going to give a little bit and it's going to grip both the piece and the angle block at this point you can go ahead and make all of your movements and you can see that the pieces nice and rock solid in there now you can also use these blocks as a quick and dirty indexing device maybe you want to cut a hex on the end of something and you don't have a dividing head or it only takes 5 C kaulitz on the part is bigger than that well you can use the in this case the 30-60-90 triangle and for your first cut you would actually just put it in there make your facing cut to the right depth and then on the next pass you would put the flat that you just created against this block to make another cut and keep on going until you've got a hex so I'm going to go ahead and demonstrate that so here I am creating the first flat my Rostock is inch and a quarter in diameter and I want a 1 inch hex so I make the distance between the flat and the opposite side one and 1/8 of an inch deburring is incredibly important especially for an operation like this because a bur could potentially affect the angle that you're getting likewise you have to make sure that everything is free of chips so here I'm setting up for the second cut I'm putting my previously made flat against the angle block and I'm using the parallels to bridge the gap in between the ways of the vise and so I can get the part centered in the vise once the part is securely clamped I can go ahead and remove my angle block and my parallels but I will have to make sure to touch off on the part with my cutter on every single cut [Applause] so now we have the roughly triangular shape here what we're going to do is put the flats against a parallel now and cut the opposite side to length let's go ahead and do that so there you have it a hex made just with angled blocks I hope this helps I'll see you next time

Channel: Stuart de Haro

Views: 35,890

Rating: 4.9547172 out of 5

Keywords: Machining, Machine Shop, Machinist, Milling Machine, Metal Lathe, Machine tools

Id: bQ6cW0_iZ_Y

Length: 7min 19sec (439 seconds)

Published: Mon Jul 10 2017