Making a 22mm / MT2 mill arbor

Hey welcome back to a shop today I wanted to make a small Arbor like this a stop mill Arbor for this gear cutter in the future I need to cut a gear and looks about this except for not being broken but um somebody lend me or borrow me the skier cutter and I really have to be thankful for that because those costs real money and I only have to cut one or two of these gears and plastic so yeah I got I got this gear cutter but obviously this has a twenty two millimeter bore and I only have sixty millimeter Arbor or some reason but I have a life and I'm cheap so I'm making my own Arbor and I'm going to use this piece of steel and this is a piece of a big screw as you can see there's a very fine pitched big diameter screw this has pitchers about is that a pitch of 1.5 millimeter and a hollow diameter of 36 millimeters so this is a 36 by 1.5 millimeter piece of all threat and it's high strength steel and those were used to bolt down the crane on the chassis of a big truck a friend of mine gave this to me and I use this when I can't heat treat the part because this is already heat treated to a very high strength and pretty tough stuff so we're going to lop off a piece of drill about this length and turn on our bird that looks almost like this only with 22 millimeter and there we go that's our piece of material you okay right now I'm roughing down the material to the rough dimensions I'm doing this in this reach out Chuck and as soon as the thing has cooled down when it's all roughed out I'm going to set it up between centers and do the finish turning I'm running a high speed steel tool ad pretty low speed about 200 rpm and the feet of 0.07 millimetre per revolution and the chip that kit that comes off is nice and curled very controllable now bird's nest of chips around be around the tool and old and the chip is nice and blue but the tool is still holding up very well I didn't have to regrind it once as I started and all the heat is going into the chips that's perfect okay I roughed out the arbor with about one millimeter allowance and all surfaces except for the faces there's only a few tenth on there next step will be to cut the the keyway slot or the slot for the key because I anticipate that it might warp slightly when I mill in the slot from one side so I'm going to mill the slot before I do my finish turning so when I do the finish turning I will remove any warpage from the middle okay off-camera i milled the keyway slot into the arbor into the 22 millimeter end of the arbor and I fitted a key into it which fits very snugly and now I have to remove the key of course again because I was just checking my fit and machine it to final dimension on the lathe the way I like to remove a close-fitting key is to grab it with the sharp edges of my wise which has copper Chows right now but this will work anyway grab it tightly and then work the arbor off the key and do to the copper Charles you don't hurt the key you can also use a precision ground wise like a grinding wise for something like that that will also not hurt the the key if you use a bench wise with heavenly serrated jaws you will mangle up the key so have either copper trawls or ground and hardened steel jaws for open twice I see no need and serrated Charles at least for semi precision work and a fabrication shop it might be different but I'm no fabricator okay I set the orb off between centers and I'm always using a lost Center that's just a piece of round stock that I check up in the three jaw Chuck and turn true as I use it so I have always that's true running dead center on the headstock side I have my play stock and I let the lathe dog rest against the jaw of my after Chuck and I I have to add the screw and bend it over slightly so can catch by the jaw and the other and I just had a Life Center now that's how I set up for turning between Santos first we will cut the 22 millimeter diameter here take a light skin pass on this other diameter which doesn't really matter but I want it to run through anyway and then we're going to cut the Morse taper we will slip it around and cut them or staple and we can have a nice short trip because of the interrupted cut okay I got it down to 22 millimeters total overall overall the complete length and we're going to take a skim cut on this register surface or this rig is the diameter and machine chamfer here here and over here that's the knife thing when you're machining between centers you can take out the part as often as you want and don't lose any precision as long as you sent us and yeah as long as the center's all clean okay I took this cup with power feet and I don't follow that with any measurements on this diameter because it doesn't matter this is just yeah material this surface is important I face this off when I turned the diameter for the milling cutter and of course the diameter itself is important okay now we can take out the part flip it around machinery morphs taper but for that we need of course to set be the top slide to the angle of the north taper and for that we need an aspir taper in the past I use my Morse taper to test bar but if you don't have one you can also use a drill check Arbor for example which has centers on both sides and you can clamp it up between centers check if it's true running and then indicate your top slide along it to clean the center bores on the ends of a park again you can use this the soft eraser just artstor uresa you just press it in there and the eraser collects all the dirt from the center board works also on the outside of the live and dead center sometimes better than using compressed air I'm setting up the arbor between centers make sure it's nice and subtle in there okay and I showed how to set up a Morse taper Morse taper turning when I did the salt Arbor video so I'm not going to show this in detail okay I set the top slide up at the required angle and I made a drive dog 4022 movie to end as my regular lace dog which is my only lace dog doesn't fit over 22 millimeter diameter and maxes out at 20 millimeters so I took a piece of scrap that already had a 22 point something millimeter bore in it I take welded a piece off mm steel to it drilled and tapped it for a set screw and that's my lathe dog took me about 5 minutes included finding or searching these piece of scrap in my scrap box now we can lock it down I make sure that the set screw goes into the key way so I don't mangle up the the nice precision diameter out here lock it in place and now we can we are good to go make sure that our centers are clean and take it up between Santos and should be you should be able to rotate that between centers you shouldn't lock it up completely but it should be nice and firmly especially when you're running a live Center if you're using a dead center in the tell stuck it should be a bit more on the loose side otherwise it will burn up keep that central but using a live Center no burning now I can set up a tool and we can cut the taper the drive table works should work as I intended the piece of steel rod gets catched by the jaw and everything's fine last time I turned the taper are used by trusty old Makita cordless drill with a socket extension a universal trying to drive the top slide but then I saw a view from Toby this old Tomy which i think is not as old as he states and used something like this the t-shaped driver which engages me to crank pins on the top slide like this and I like to say I copied it like the Chinese okay I took a few passes with the power feet and now I'm checking with a more steeper 3 2 2 adapter sleeve to see how far the taper goes into its socket and when I look in here through the rift flop I can see that I can go a bit further on with turning down the taper right now they're a bit far out if I take a commercial more stupid to our bar you can see that the end produce into the slot of the merciful socket so let's take a fine another fine cut and see how it goes okay I got the taper to a good fit and I checked you run out in the milling machine and everything is fine we're well within two hundredths of a millimeter overall I will show the run out to you later now we will clamp it up in this reach out Chuck here on this diameter drill and tap it for the screw that holds the milling cutter then we will flip it around and real tap the draw our thread and not to mangle up the surface here I'm using some brass shim stock between the jaws and apart so I can crank down because tapping 10-millimeter strat takes some torque and I don't want apart to slip in this recharge ik Leafs ugly marks on the part all the time ok I drilled and tapped the first side 40 where'd a milling cutter goes already and our duty drawbar site already pre-drilled and chamfered and slightly counter board the hole and I have my 10 millimeter tap in the keyless chuck you hear often that the keyless Chuck's don't have enough holding power for threading and this is not even a upright chuck this is a more cheap cheaply made very Supra and those cost of cost about a third of an outbreak Chuck and even this one room is a German company it by the way even this one is way good enough to hold a 10 millimeter tab without slippage these tap these Chuck's tighten themselves when you when the tool wants to slip but when you reverse the machine and it runs counter clockwise the Chuck will loosen and then the tap will spin you will see what I mean in a second when I do the power tapping easier to show than to explain okay slow speed okay Paula tapping 10-millimeter there beside tightening there we go now we bottomed out and when I set the machine to run reverse up didn't even normally the truck opens then and yeah then you have to counteract by tightening the Chuck until the tap is out but worked out fine and still opens up with a with the twist of a hand so I think there is no reason to use a key to chuck anymore we have 2016 and keyless checks work and there are even ones that are not have a safety against opening one run reverse so yeah I think I don't have a single key to chuck in the whole house anymore not even on the entrance every everything has a keyless chuck so now we have our 10 movie drawbar shred and we can try it out on the mill ok I have the arbor in the spindle tightened up with the drawbar and I set up a 100 Sonoma dial indicator and let's let you see pretty exactly one hundredth of a millimeter run out on the extreme end of the order and in my mind that's good enough for a shell middle Arbor okay we get pretty much zero zero almost to run out on the face of the Arbor as we are function so this is true reading so this face runs perfectly true as its yeah turn true and the diameter on the extreme end is about 107 millimeter off because the taper is the the Morse taper to is only 99.99% fitting to e spindle but I think 107 only run is good enough at least for me okay the arbor is finished I had one spare Arbor screw and one of my drawers over 10 millimeter thread that fits the 22 Mormon Arbor size but I don't have a single 22 millimeter Arbor ring and I need those to fill up the sin the space between the shoulder and the milling cutter because I made this Arbor of course long enough so I can also clamp up a shell mule or whatever onto it and the gear cut has of course very narrow so I need some arbor rings and you can buy them they are pretty expensive because they are hardened and ground on on the thickness but I have a lathe so I'm going to make mountain out of this piece of free cutting mild steel okay I took the material I turned it down to 32 millimeters outer diameter and board it to twenty two point oh five millimeter and now we're going to part it off there we go now we can go to the shaper and cut the keyway okay that's the setup on the shaper I change the clapper box to my slotting hat with the with a five millimeter tool because I don't have a six millimeter tool I have to offset 0.5 millimeter to each side to get a six-membered keyway I have angle plate here and I clamp the bushing against the angle plate pretty basic setup yeah on the other side down here you see the dial indicator I'm going to use to offset the table point five mu meters and here you see the strap clamp I need to hold my angle plate because the whole pattern of the end plate does of course not match up with the shape even if I drilled the hole pattern myself but for some reason the hole pattern doesn't match up in any way with the shaper hmm okay this is a bit of a strange shot you're looking through the slot of the angle plate into the bore of the bushing and the black thing you're see you can see they're moving is the front of the shaper tool now you will see how I centered a tool in the bore I'm going to touch off and as you can see we only get contact on the left side of on the left edge of the shaper tool that means we need to move it over to get its center the goal is that the slotting tool leaves two equally sized marks in the bore of the bushing and then we are centered the wrong direction that's a bit finicky antics on time okay now we get a mark on both sides and we get a ship that's about about the same size on both sides I think hard to tell yeah it's the same size it looks bigger on this side because the front of the bore is completely out of focus the depth of view that close up with my camera is very little so you only get a very shallow area where the image is sharp and that's about here so now we are centered we can zero our value indicator and cut our key that's effectively the only way I know to center the slotting tool in a bore you could use gauge pins of both sides of the tool against the wall of the war but that's that so sounds like a lot of work okay we go we have to go down 2.5 minutes let's get some cutting oil in there get the Machine going there we go that should be our final dimension okay I cut the rings apart with party - of course and into individual rings and now last task is to machine them to thickness and exactly parallel and for that the magnetic track is of course the best solution a surface grinder would also be nice but those are not hardened so we can Mission them with a defined cutting edge opposed to a non defined cutting edge on a grinding wheel except I get often asked how you set up the part on the magnetic Chuck and it's really easy there is always some residual magnetism in the Chuck so it's right now turned off but the part still sticks on I stick the part on make sure everything is clean then I spin it just by hand and look and adjust it so it runs true by I then I switch the magnet on port is locked now now I can bring in a doll test and keeper from bluff and check our route and get about 0.35 hundo front up so and we use a copper drift to knock it in place you search for the high spot just tap it have to run out then you get pretty much sear around within a few seconds and you remove your dial tone indicator check if the magnet is really on otherwise this was fly off and you can face off and face off the end of the part as you want there we go first side faced chamfered on the inside outside and I'm using a Gandhi ox tool Co universal blade bit and we turn off the magnet pull off our part get rid of the chips you can just wipe it down with your bare hand chips don't really stick to it when it's switched off you make sure your part is clean doesn't hurt to run it over some fine and repay / to remove any slight birth so you don't scratch them again you stick it on the magnetic check and look for our run out okay bring in our battle testing new cater switch on the magnet and we have a bit more run at this time I don't really need this kind of precision end to run out but I want the chin fur I'm putting on there to run true to the part because it looks ugly if that's not the case there we go so trace both sides and should be perfectly parallel and thickness i didn't machine it to a specific thickness cus doesn't matter I only need them to be parallel okay we're over at the bench I'm using a small needle file to keep our the key it's bit hard to work around the camera I'm literally literally hogging the tripod right now breaking all the edges and also break the cornice slightly and you see that my thumb is guiding the needle file along it's acting as a file guide so I don't run with the file into my surfaces and I use my right eraser again off the trot and the D jump ring tool made a slight burr on the inside so I'm using a Nova another tool with the narrow deburring blade I like these because they cut a bit softer than the regular ones and I'm taking off the spur there we go okay let's wrap it up we have our arbor we have the Rings which fits quite nicely onto the arbor I have our gear cutter which we will need in the next project which should also fit on there quite nice and we have another ring which should also fit come on we need the bigger ring cause the other one is thin that's the reason why I meet more than one ring and our screw to hold the milling cutter in place tighten this down head up in the milling machine and we're good to go neat little project could have bought it on eBay for 50 bucks but I meet us my own and buying means losing so thank you all for help hope this up this is quite interesting for you and thank you for watching - see you next time

Channel: Stefan Gotteswinter

Views: 68,732

Rating: 4.9581394 out of 5

Keywords: morsetaper, mt2, morsekegel, mill arbor, fräsdorn, drehmaschine, stoßmaschine, gack, gack HE20

Id: 7rrzsiNSTWA

Length: 37min 23sec (2243 seconds)

Published: Fri May 06 2016