Kuroda boring head teardown

[Music] yeah welcome back let's talk about these two boring heads this is the wool hub that UPA one that I had for years and always served me very very good it's very small all of facing boring head it can do not only boring but I was facing with automatic outfeed the problem with this boring hat is that it's it's very small obviously and it takes only ignore me the tooling at max and in some cases even as I do not do very large work usually make no meter boring Boris just not cutting it literally speaking it's just a flexible tool deflection is problem chatter and whatnot so I was always looking for either one size up or two sizes up which would be a UPA 2 or UPS read again from will help dub but there is also Japanese company Kuroda which built I think they built the will help the boring head in license if you put this next to a wool hop the boring head they look very very similar I got this for next to nothing off the German equivalent to Craigslist so a little bit worried that I might get a box of bricks but I actually got a boring head and very nice boring head that is made in Japan old best stuffs made in Japan as we know [Music] that takes 60 millimeter boring bars I guess 18 18 millimeter boring bar so this is substantial larger and just massive compared to the tiny UVA one what's cool about the UPA style of pouring head you do not need an allen key to adjust your diameter you have a have a dial up here that reads in point a 1 millimeters per division that's half a ten thousandth of an inch I guess which is really nice and what you dial in here is what you actually get that the cutter it's no guesswork those those boring heads are just insanely accurate all hardened all all ground just just beautiful pieces and as far as I can tell the Japanese license-built here is just as well made it has T slot here on the side where can set a stop and when to stop when you use the auto feed function of this boring head when the stop runs up against this pin there is a clutch on the inside and it will stop moving so you can do snap ring grooves on the milling machine with this guy or face a diameter to a certain dimension so I got this and obviously this is 40 taper but when I looked at the photos now that was I was very certain that the shank on this thing is interchangeable on the wall of the boring heads you have to be careful there are there are some that have an integrated change like this one the UPA one and two all have an integrated shank and the UPA three and larger have either a integrated shank or an interchangeable shank you will have to use a Viren system with a differential screw and to drive dogs that you have to use then tighten the differential screw through the shank but Kuroda did hit a little bit different they just put six holes in here on this flange and they bolt the shank to the boring head which is which is brilliant simple it's very easy very very simple and you when you buy it you already see that this is interchangeable so our mission for today is to to clean this this boring head up because it's all crusty as can be this is this grinding dust in here this in the corner is this this is like like grease with grinding dust not very good condition for a boring head and get it all cleaned up check if somebody put something wrong together and then make or modify a Morse taper for things so I can use this in my milling machine make it a short and compact as possible so we do not create a lot of away but yeah let's start let's take this let's take the shank off I already I already broke loose the screws off camera to see what I when I get there so this is reenacting not so my surprise now my surprise reaction when I take off the shanks this Hummer pursuit Genya oh yes that's the that's the the shank goes off for the taper with the odd style yeah you know what draw bolt first you'll see and it also has a 16mm thread on the inside so I can use a manual mill with a threaded drawbar and somebody was using a lot of water ah and and it smells like motor oil it smells like old motor oil in there it stinks really bad what we'll take this apart there's no way I'm going to use this with all bit of all the abrasive grit here close to the sliding surfaces and possibly been completely wrong with lubrication in this in this boring head so let's let's read let's see how we got this thing apart hope I do not get a million springs in my when I do this so I have to figure I have to figure out how this goes apart check out the back plate which is also the mounting flange 3mm six screws goes right off and then we have this ring here which moves and adjusts the slide down here I expect there as you can see when I turned the upper ring the inner ring terms there is planetary gearset in there and when I turn the larger ring you can couple these two rings together with this pin if you align everything and press down this pin and you move everything at once and when you get to ring the pin out have superfine in feet and this is also the automatic facing feet so this seems to go off as I complete unit there was a little bit of what then you die sulfate grease or something like that on here super Turkey this plane bearing in here looks very good this up here needs to be cleaned of course is super scuffie take this off now we have been to be careful we have one gear here this probably or for sure goes down into the body here and drives drives a warm warm warm drive which engages this warm wreck in the slide Musa slide back and forth and we have something over here this is a pin and this is this goes along I can show it this is this is a spring-loaded pin which locks one of the one of the rings of the planter you gear set in one of these notches to engage define feet and we have a pin sticking up here because I'm the under sparring head the lock here does not only lock the slide itself we are the key by pressing against the gear but it also locks the dial and the whole planetary gear set up here because there is a reason for that when it turned on the machine all the inertia in this planetary gearset especially on a machine a geared machine with a without a VFD that starts very rapidly the machine will start to spin it will jerk and the planetary gear set here wants to stay very des at the moment because of its it's mass and inertia and that means that when you turn on the machine it starts to spin and the dial here stays stationary for a moment and then it kicks in and moves with the rest of it so that would could or would alter your sets dimension and also messes up your reading on the dial so they are locking not only the slide but also the adjuster mechanism with this pin here that moves up and down I have to be careful not to lose any screw here okay that is easy you take out the Gib screws pull out the to one end it seems to be hardened but no noticeable where normally on a warm Gabby's you get this where rich of unworn material this doesn't have it ant this probably hard as a rock and then take the boring head and take your slides over you lift it a little bit up so you disengage to warm drive in there and just pull it out to one end super simple we have again molybdenum disulfide grease in here which is probably a very good choice for the rack and pinion for that for the warm drive here here's to warm seems to be young looks very good shape I'm very happy so far this needs to be cleaned a little definitely we drop this and ultrasonic we know once I get all the parts out okay I drop out this long pin here which I figures is the axle for this warm warm drive in here and I remove this plate that was screwed on here and I should be able to get this yeah we get this whole assembly out it in one piece kinda one piece okay there is a a washer this is probably to set the end play on the warm we have to be careful to keep that to to take a note where to put this when we put this guy back together there we go now that washer result this goes on this end now everything has a little bit more but slope and falls out on its own okay careful there is a washer on here and there is a washer on this end of the warm drive and there is a washer on this end I probably have to clean my hands now before I get this super sticky Greece not sure if this I looked like the Tin Man now not sure if this it's the virginal lubrication from Kuroda or if somebody else was already mucking around with this boring head Bob will probably never find out that's like that's okay yeah this is that is the body of this boring head there's a one pit one part one piece all machined from solid it's hardened that's grounded on all the important surfaces on and of course because does matter they also ground all the the other surfaces too as you do when you produce some high-quality tooling well I will take some notes where each of the shim go and [Music] fire up the ultrasonic cleaner and clean all these parts before before this gets out of hand okay here can see the planetary gearset taken apart with the ring gear on the inside and the other half on the right side which is unfortunately in this photo upside down has the two gears in it the next photo you see the inside of this upper ring with the two shafts sticking out and that's where the two planetary gear skill unfortunately again I already had removed it for this photo and these small parts on the right side those belong to the engagement and disengagement food for the ultrafine and auto feet okay I got all the small parts in the ultrasonic cleaner and they cleaned up beautifully all the gunk cut off completely need to search through them some need this for example needs a little bit of stoning for deburring and apart from that it's all very good shape all the gears that rotate this large warm here here smaller warm gear and the small gears out of the planetary gearset they all have tiny lubrication channels there's a tiny tiny bore in here that goes to the inside that's to supply oil to the inside of each of the moving parts so this thing is designed and built to last if it's taken care of obviously so this is the ultrasonic cleaner I'm using it's an MX m e30 I'm not sure if this model is still available but something in the same price range this is about I think it was around 300 euros something like seven or eight years ago and I want to mention something if you set it up with fresh cleaning solution and you're cleaning really dirty parts or small parts in general that you don't want to lose in the large buff in there take take a glass gas jar fill it up with with the cleaning solution drop your parts in there let them run and the sonic cleaner and dump away the cleaning solution is super dirty messed up cleaning solution so you do not spend all the cleaning solution in your large container here once at all this is what I used to get most of the dirt off the parts this is the cleaner I'm using this is from from sono Swiss sono Swiss cleaner t3 this is a very alkaline ik or very basic I'm not sure cleaner that removes oil and grease and lapping compound and stuff like that very very good doesn't attack aluminium or brass but it attacks your hands makes your hands feel soapy and that's the fat of pure on your skin dissolving so that's the reason for the black racing car gloves this stuff does not protect against rust once it dried off Robin Rand said he just mentioned on Instagram a cleaner that once dried off Leafs rust protective film this cleaner does does not that's the reason why I use have some rust protective oil in here very thin oil add Leafs a thin film and will protect these parts from rusting until I get this thing back together and I'm using one of these sorting boxes just to keep the parts in one place when I finally decide to to build this to put this boring head back together okay got all the parts cleaned out of the ultrasonic cleanup blown off and spray it down with the rest protection oil and just wiped it down so I have an oily film on every part that I'm working on now so I get no rust problems and everything will be fine to clean up all the ground surfaces I used to these elastic abrasive sticks this is like a crate ax stick and this we call them rusty razor here it's just a very very soft rubber with a lot of abrasive in it and I would not use it on an assembled piece of a precision piece of equipment because it will get abrasive dust everywhere but if you have to the thing apart you you polish all the surfaces and then you clean it in the ultrasonic cleaner it's not a problem I also used scotch brite just to buff it up in overall then I dropped it in ultrasonic all the abrasive grit got away and blew it off with compressed air which got rid of the last bit and then I just sprayed it down with oil the boring head went back together exactly the same way as it came apart no problems everything had a very precise very good fit the only spot where you have to be very careful this was the planetary gearset the gears are matched and marked where they have to go they have tiny marks engraved on them and they need to orient them so the marks are in one line to each other when you take it apart and you look at the gears before you take them out you will see what I mean - Mountain boring head on my meal I'm using a spare more steeper for shell mill Arbor I remove the the drive keys and then I went on to the tone cutter grinder and I cut off the end of the shank and I've turned a smaller diameter boss then I machine the flange that bolts on to his mercy before shank and has the whole pattern for the boring yet thrilling the bolt circle into the dr. plate one important thing the Kuroda has has not an even bolt circle if you if you look carefully at this flange plate she see that the distance between those two holes it's larger than between a year and here here and here and here and here and here so it's it's off I guess on purpose they have two holes on the centerline and then the four holes each of them is offset by 55 degree off centerline have to be careful so at first I wanted to draw the holes with the bolt circle function of my Dro but obviously it is not going to work out so I'm using the rotary table to index the holes and I'm not even using the warm drive of just indexing with file on the table with warm disengaged this is plenty precise enough for this purpose these are just through holes with clearance though not problem well here we are this is that that adapter flange and machined this bolts to need more super foreshank that you saw me cut off on the toilet cutter grinder and the boring head just bolts with six screws to the flange everything is held together with a large central m12 screw and lock tight so very rigid relatively low stick out over the spindle I'm quite happy God came out at the size is not too much off for this machine it looks massiveness it is massive I do not intend to bore out how it's a barrel with this thing I needed to win half Ralph if you small bore and it's relatively deep and long you know you just different boring part and I ain't no meat important bar that I can hold in my UK one boring head and I can use an 18 millimeter boring bar in this larger head here and I have a very rigid situation just to compare this is the UPA one again that's quite a step up in size and the operation is the same with two small s with the small one here is the lock this locks the adjuster ring and the slide at the same time this ring here moves the slide in and out but you can also use it as a rapid Traverse with the machine running and we uncoupled the gearing up here and we lock this lower ring in place and we have superfine feet when we spin when we move this up here one time and that this down here moves about a fifth of a turn so it's it's incredibly fine adjust then and this is also the author we let the Machine run and we hold this upper ring and the slide is going to move out and I think it's point O seven millimeter per revolution so it's it's it's facing just like you would face on the lathe you see slide has we moved very slowly and thus pouring it you can't run this boring head up to around I think it's made up to 1000 rpm which actually can run them it's not a problem if you are not running a very massive off-center boring Lord we're not going to bore a 500-meter bore and a thousand rpm despite burning up the cover you would also what gets quite terrifying with balance but you can bore a 20-millimeter bore at the thousand rpm with no problem he's boring has really are these are my love there is also the French D'Andrea boring heads with us are also very nice they have a hand-cranked sticking out here which you can crank to move the slider for a facing cut I think Tom let me show one of these on his channel once take a look at pulse channel you might have some some footage from that oh yeah that's the corona you fb3 moring hat with a more steeper foreshank hope you enjoyed this teardown and discussion on sporran yet thank you for watching [Music]

Channel: Stefan Gotteswinter

Views: 44,804

Rating: 4.9647484 out of 5

Keywords: kuroda, wohlhaupter, boring head, ausdrehkopf, ultrasonic cleaner, ultraschallreiniger, optimum mb4, opti mb4, t&c grinder, knuth, ausbohrkopf, feinbohrkopf, universal plan und ausdrehkopf

Id: MPPPORn6C7g

Length: 28min 26sec (1706 seconds)

Published: Tue Jan 22 2019