Adjustable angle plate, improving and scraping - Part 2

so we're over at the milling machine and I have my setup down on a milling machine I have the base plate standing vertical on machine table and I clamped it against big box parallel let's screw down with two to hold down bolts and I will show you in a second back side of the setup you can see the box parallel that I'm using this big cast-iron parallel box parallel and I clamped it to the table with two screws and I clamped the base of the angle plate against it with two bolts and to strap clamps to give me some support now we can Center on the existing bore carefully because there is give a slot in it and pour it out into the next even number right now I'm in process of pouring the bearing hole open two twenty nine millimeters and it's always fun when I get opportunity to break out my will help a UPA one boring head this is yeah this is superior German engineering it's a masterpiece it's more stupid to boring head you don't need tools to adjust the diameter and it has a facing feature so you can run it and hold this ring while it's running and you will create a face it can face a flat surface Square to the bore you just machine that's quite a handy features from time to time and it's early a neat piece they show up an ebay from time to time and they are fair expensive but great tool to have let's take a look at the adjustment this is the clamp the clamping screw this one locks the slide and the adjusting ring up here at the same time it pushes directly against the clamping gibb and there is a ball and a 45 degree chamfer pushpin which pushes up against the ring here and we have this nicely engraved style up here which shows one hundredths of a millimeter in diameter per division so I want to go on point three millimeters point one point two point three then we lock it and get the spindle back in here I disengaged it so I can turn it freely okay there we go I like to retract the tool with the spindle standing still and in this case it's very easy because I can turn the tool so it sits in the key slot in here and I can retract it without scratching the bore otherwise I would have to live with the scratch of the tool in my bore or I have to retract the tool slide now we can move up the table a bit take a measurement that's nice when you have a bureau you can move the table in and out as well as much as you want you will can always get back to zero now we take our two-point internal mic and take a measurement yes we are one hundred seven or eight on the sides I can live off set because we turn these the chef that will go through the spoor anyway our own and we can make that a hair on the side that goes in nice and tight yeah this is looking good twenty eight point nine nine that's very interesting case you will we're wondering I'm using one of the boring bars I made in a video earlier this year with small high speed steel bit and they work real well they short and very stiff so gives a good good surface finish in the bore okay took me some time to figure out how to indicate the lower board in line with the upper bore but in the end rip and effect is pretty simple setup I have the the x-direction is set by my box parallel and I didn't change it when I flipped around the part to board yup the hole so I don't have to indicate the X direction I only have to complicate the y direction because there is no stop and I have my indicator reaching around this this luck here and now I can indicate around like this and get almost the full 180 degrees that I need to indicate the lower bore and I read zero to zero from side to side so that's my setup to indicate the lower board now I can get the indicator out and get back with the boring head and bore out the other side okay we're at the surface plate and I have both of the holes board open and I'm checking if lines through this tube wars is parallel to the surface plate and I have a dial indicator the surface gauge over here and I found the low spot in this poor somewhere that's bit fiddly and it's zero over here I can pull back I can come and push this over and I can look on the side and it's zero over here to within a few thousands of a millimeter oh that's perfectly fine I'm quite happy how this came out and it should also be in line with the front and back and I will check that to stand the Sun um surface plate and do the same turn around so you can see he's something okay this is zero we can pull this over get this around and check it on this side - that's okay and we are one hundredth of a millimeter off on this side so the bore is 107 millimeter tilted I think I can live with that and I even could correct this error by scraping the long sides of the base but I think I will not bother with that that's good okay I think I got the base so far finished so we can proceed on with the tilting top of it got all important surfaces scraped and I board up the pivot so it's straight and true to the base now we can proceed on with the tilting top and I had just propped up here in the table because I'm thinking through the order of operations we're going to do on this piece and I think the first step will be to clean up those T slots because they are not they are they are machine but not really very very nice and then we might continue to scrape the top top surface and the sides or face square and true to each other then we will like the base stand it up like this bore it flip it around and bore the other side and as you can see I have propped the table up here and I have my straightedge here and when I set the straight edge up here you can see light coming through in the center of the table and that's of course because table is not flat now I have my fila gauge here this is a 500 so I know me the leaf and this does not fit between the straightedge and my tabletop so it's less than five hundreds of them only the hollow that means we don't have to machine the surface we can just scrape three hundreds of a millimeter is a piece of cake to scrape off of the pop scraper okay I'm cleaning up these slots to a width of 11 millimeters already to the center one and the two other ones are to follow earning a for flute high speed steel and milk coated at 500 and a rpm with power feet of course you might guess what I'm doing right now judging by the tool I have clamped up in the spindle that's right we're truing up the T slots with a t slot cutter I already did these two and when I cranked the table out of the way where my chair left going in the other direction and you can see the difference this one is all wonky and those two can only see this one right now this is nice crisp and machined on all surfaces especially the bottom the inner bottoms are top surface of the T slot this this surface here that's where the T slot nut rides on and it's exerts pressure onto the table and that has to be machined properly otherwise yeah you might crush some material or the your clamping setup might give in if your T slot t-nut does rock or slip slightly all bad things can happen so it's nice to have these teeth loss machined square running the t-slot cover at 580 rpm okay I finished the t-slot and I did something else if you remember I machine the tea slugs to 11 millimeters and when I that 11 million is an odd size 40 slots I have hardware for 10 and 12 millimeter slots so I changed my mind I opened them up to 12 millimeters so they accept my normal tea tea slatina and also my precision T slots for lining stuff I have a pair of them in 1200 meters and they are a very tight fit in the slot as they should be okay I think we're done on the milling machine and when I tear down the setup you will be able to see how I had this piece clamped up so let's let's check off each clamps and take off the casting you can see that I had four screwed screw checks under there with a pin on top that has a spherical top and I used that too oops to tram in the part level to the Machine and Square to the travel of the machine I tweaked the individual screw jacks under the part until it was all in line and I have this nice machined t-slots plate without the need to machine the back of it I can leave this raw casting and you can see the imprint from the for spherical pins into the the paint of the casting trimming the part in is bit fiddly and sorry to screw jacks would be easier but would be not as stable not as rigid okay let's check the tabletop for flatness we already did this kind of with the straight edge before but now we will see the dirty truth of that casting this doesn't feel very flat at all yep that's not very flat we have heavy bearing here here and over here but nothing in the center okay I scraped the top surface flat I didn't show that again cos you saw it already on the bottom surface off the base and on this angle I really like the pattern of just checkerboard scraping when you alternate bananie decrease and leave small scrape marks looks kinda neat and for some reason I like that more than a flaked Halfmoon surface or somebody just went over with a Halfmoon scraper with that with the Halfmoon EOCs shaper or just point and shoot your half moons onto the surface I don't like that atma at all this is dead flat use the only light and scraping wellies not on the overall length of the straight edge so I'm quite happy with this surface now we're going to a surface plate and check the upper and lower surface if they are parallel to our T slot because T slots are our real reference we will set up on a surface plate and check this before we go to a surface plate we're going to to stone this let's read the surface which will sit on the surface and I have my stones so I'm doing quite a lot of stoning right now and I must in a shallow plastic bin with some wd-40 sitting next the stones wet and washes out the debris and keeps them nice and sharp only problem it's that it's a real mess but the half Iram clogs up the stones really fast if you don't use some form of lubrication you can also use petroleum or I think mineral spirits would also work but wd-40 is whatever buddy has in that shop so I'm using that okay clean the surface play and I'm not using a surface slate clean I'm using window cleaner and my mind that's pretty much the same stuff just keeper and at least a nice clean surface were for example the surface gage slides very nice now we set up our part on the surface plate if you won't really get down and catch ever a bit of dust on your surface plate use your bare hand you set your part onto surface plate and you slide it then you will hear and feel if it's probably sitting on the surface plate or if there is a speck of dust between the part and surface plate and I'm just using these you hype cake as a indicator holder right now because it's nice and convenient to adjust the height with the hand wheel go into the t-slot and we zero it on the inside of the t-slot here you should be able to see us now we have zero over here and now we go to the left and we have about half of a hundreds of millimeter that's five thousandth of a millimeter difference from this side to this side so that's okay zero have a hundredths of a millimeter so five thousandth of a millimeter left to right that's so we're just going to make the lower surface flat we scrape them just flat we don't have to do any correction on the on the orientation of the surface so this surface down here is parallel to this this and to this that double line is the symbol for parallel we have to check the the upper surface to zero okay we have 0 over here and plus three hundreds of millimeter over here so this upper surface needs some tweaking we have to bring it down to be parallel with the T slots and the lower surface but that's not too hard and three hundreds of millimeters not that much okay I scraped reference surface flat and to somewhat uneven pattern you can see the bluing year is kinda even I used bit much blue but you still get the idea the diamond high spot blue I am using shows her badly in camera it's very faint I would have to use the dyke my spot blue but I don't have a lot of stuff so I don't mess around with it on camera and if we wipe off the blue you can see that I have a pretty nice pattern scraping pattern here and when we take a look along it and use a precision square we go down onto the scraped reference surface you can see there is no light gap at all so the surface is also square to the surface and it's parallel to my teeth slots so that's where we start now we can flip the part around and scrape the other side parallel to this side okay I strip the bottom side which was already parallel to the T slots and now we're going for the upper side which is high 300 200 me down this side so we have to tilt this whole surface to the left for my stance left over here three hundreds of millimeters down and we don't want to change the cyber much so it will get clear when we do the scraping I will start to scrape the whole surface lightly then I come back and take a heavy pass about one about the half to two-thirds of the length from the surface one or two passes and that will slowly tilt the surface in the correct direction then we will go over to a service plate take a measurement and then we will correct again until we have that parallel surface without the surface grinder so power scraper is set to stroke of about 15 millimeter and we're good to go okay as corrector with the whole surface once likely so when I do my when I use the high spot blue I get I have something on surface to catch the color otherwise this would be you smear the color now we will remove some material from here to about here let's take two passes with the power screen okay I don't want to take too much in a first pass mmm castor is always danger going to fall I would take our stone and I'm again I'm wetting he still with some wd-40 so stays clean from me from grinding from the cast-iron dust and now I'm going over to the surface plate and I will blew the surface I'm not going to film this you saw this quite a lot of time you right back amber back you can see that we're only hitting on the outer edges which is quite good that will this will go very fast to get it even I will do one pass just to clean up and give it a bit better Barrett and then we will take a measurement we go let's take our stone for some alcohol I like to use some degreasing something to remove the grease or oil like alcohol because otherwise when get it onto your ice Popp blue the surface plate everything smears up and you have to clean the whole surface play that start all over that sucks before we check it for flatness we'll check if we are already parallel to the bottom surface I'm changing back to the hypeeee to the tree surface gauge because right now the space on the surface plate is quite crammed up back here I have my have some lay up some some high spot blue here in front I have some lay out blue and here I have a clean spot where I can do measuring and the surface here is of course not flat so we can't directly measure with that s indicator onto it we need something to bridge the gaps between the high and low spots so a gauge block will do fine just take a gauge plug onto the surface make sure it's clean slide it in slide it in place and get our L test indicator on top of it and zeroed out here we are now with zero now we can pull it over pull the gauge block over and bring it in again and as you can see we are 100 700 meter high over here and that's really looking very good we start we make a little bow right right in this area from here to here it rises about one hundredth of a millimeter everything else here is zero this is plus one one hundred square meter yeah I think we will see this when we do the bluing at the surface we should get some bearing points here very less here and some over here reapply the paint or Reece pred it and take a rope and that's about what I was thinking we have some spots here and some over here nothing in the middle well let's go back to a bench and do a few passes with this great search paths fifth pass okay sixth pass and as you can see the pattern is now pretty even I'll do the sixth pass scraping pass and down low to redo the measurement because everything has evened out and then we will see if we still have to correct for the parallelism between the two surfaces okay same s setup as before with two gauge block to bridge scraping marks I see really adult and when we over bring in our gauge block we have about five thousandths of a millimeter left to right that's good that's that's kind of okay and just for fun we can break up the to thousands of a millimeter dial test indicator just to see how much it really is serious we get zero here we get zero here settled in over okay that's four thousandths of a millimeter to divide two lines on the dial so that's quite good I'm not I don't have to be ashamed of that that's zero and over here we are plus for thousands of a millimeter that's quite okay and that's really what I like about scraping you can get super accurate results and I could could even get better than this if I invest more time you can refine it to be zero zero everywhere but it takes time and the more precise you want to be the more you have to be very aware of burrs for cleanliness on surface plate and the accuracy of the measuring devices you using this is a 2,000 per division Marvel test indicator this is the most sensitive and precise measuring tool I have in the shop I have a one thousandth of a millimeter meter to digital indicator but for some reason that thing doesn't seem to be as precise as a dial instrument I prefer this one it's way more sensitive okay we are over the milling machine cos when I check the face faces of the t-slot table and I realized that it's very square in this direction it's almost that nuts on but we take a square and we look over the surface that direction we are off about 2/10 of a millimeter point two millimeters and that's a bit much I'm not in the mood to scrape that out and using the milling machine for that and I already did the first site came out very good and I'm just clamping the piece against the box parallel and very convenient this part has teeth lots so I can use tea tea tea tea nuts to hold it just using two of them with some clamps on the other end to give me some clamping surface against the box parallel and I fiddle everything through the box parallel yeah need to take off these clamps for the together through otherwise I will pull up my hairs like this and I put the clamp each time behind it now we can take a light-skinned pass over the surface off the over the face let's go down point two millimeters 0.25 I'm using the C axis because I have a digital readout on their running running at 95 RPM and the slow feet okay I took our light-skinned pass over the surface

Channel: Stefan Gotteswinter

Views: 41,885

Rating: 4.9506173 out of 5

Keywords: scraping, powerscraper, biax, renz, elektroschaber, schaber, scraper, boring, jig bore, lehrenbohrwerk, lehrenbohren, wohlhaupter

Id: qMIX8MKvj3U

Length: 40min 56sec (2456 seconds)

Published: Thu May 19 2016