Small stainless machining - Flux capacitor parts

and welcome back I have to make four sets of parts ten each and this is one of them and as usual I cannot tell you what these are customer would not appreciate that fairly involved processes especially on these parts so they are machined out of 140 305 stainless at the isolate designation the NZ designation for the steel is 303 stainless are fairly complicated OD ID turning some boring at an angle sum square boring and some rotary table action so let's start with these parts these these are really fun to make hope the next part starts again with six member round bar one 4305 stainless steel that has sulfur in it to help breaking the chip it's not as corrosion resistant as other stainless steels but it machines beautiful and for a lot of environments this is absolutely good enough we start with the solid carbide turning tool just facing off the end of the stock I will change to a 45 degree tool this will cut the OD and and the leading the leading chamfer of this feature I'm going almost to fold that I'm leaving 50 micron for finishing which is very odd finishing allowance but this works very well this is grounded of fine grain carbide and it's diamond lapped to razor-sharp edge the way this is dimension this dimension off this edge there we go reasonable good finish quick check of our dimension should be 3.8 3.0 3.8 oh seven so 77 micron oversize tolerance on this diameter is plus minus 50 microns so that's good but in a tiny chamfer on the edge of the part now gets drilled all the way streamed and then a pocket bored out on the end this is a 2h7 reamer h7 is is the iso standard for the tolerance field and the size of the tolerance if there is interest in iso tolerancing of diameters and fits and i might do a video on it I'm not promising because that's a very dry topic I'm using a small ball nose / - to put a tiny tiny chamfer on the pre-drilled hole now we switch to a small tip to a small border box to a tiny boring board this is a Goering serious 104 boring bar this just can't starting at one point for a millimeter whole solid carbide titanium nitride coated I use these quite some time now and these are really nice sometimes you just don't want to grind your own tool hand and it's nice to be able to buy something there are not one of those cutting inserts they have four millimeter shank one of them is about 15 euros so yeah they're kind of sheepish and kind of not if you if you count your time that you need to to grind one of these yeah might be cheaper to buy them but sometimes you need a tool right now then it's a good idea to to go be able to grind it at least using a magnifier to get my to get my C offset this needs to be three point two millimeters and one point six deep the tolerance on this bore is three point two millimeters plus 0.1 so can be three point two or three point three and anything in between but good practice is to put your final dimension right in the center of your tolerance that gives you some safety so here is a three point two five millimeter gauge pin and this very very barely goes in a three point two goes in nicely goes in very sloppy in fact and a three point three which is the largest dimensional out doesn't even start in the hole that way you can judge a whole hole diameter very precisely even if your gauge pin set is only in 50 micron increments you can also use these guys small hole gauge some small bore gauges these are surprisingly accurate these are split and have a small taper here on the end a wedge and with the screw on the back you you split them up and it's basically an adjustable gauge pin I like to adjust them until I have a tiny part tiny bit of drag in the bore then I take my my digital micrometer and check by rotating the small hole gauge between the anvils till I get a little bit of drag there we go that that's a little bit of drag and look at the dimension and that's 3.24 so very close to the dimension I checked with the gauge pins that's a little bit touch and feel using those large ball carbide burr putting a small chamfer on large-caliber and the small ball nose / - deeper the hole in the bottom of the pocket just doing it by hand Crytek stick just to to shine up any any machine surface round over every tiny sharp corner and remove any hairline burst [Music] so not much features to cut on this side we'll have to cut two slots later on the milling machine on each side of the part with a small flitting saw but that's millwork so you can see the finish of it it's it's pretty it's pretty decent it's very serviceable let's call it that way now we take a small carbide part of blade and cut it off [Music] I faced the part two lengths and then this side gets bored in a two step for 2.5 million two point six millimeters about 700 meters deep the parts are already faced two lengths I just mikage them and use the arrow to cut the excess material and now I'm using the same goering solid carbide boring bark that I used before to to cut those relatively deep holes [Music] I'm running at 1800 rpm taking a depth of cut of a hundred micron for roughing and for finishing a depth of cut a 50 micron and for the finish cut I take a spring pass to get any tool deflection out and I'm hand feeding at about the rate that's 30 microns per revolution but I don't dare to run it with with actual power feet it's a little bit if you this bore should be 2.5 plus should be almost it can be between two point five two and two point five six there's a 2.5 millimeter pin and this goes loosely in and that two point five five does not go in so I'm I'm absolutely in the range of the bore if if if a 2.5 millimeter pin is that loose I know that the bore is probably 20 microns oversize and now we need to cut a very close tolerance hole to point six H 7 which is 2 point 6 + 10 microns at max in front of it not too full that and I'm going directly from 2.5 to 2.6 in one pass with a spring pass that's 50 microns depth of cut per side 2.6 millimeter pin this should go in barely there we go and it has almost no no feelable wiggle and bore so that's good just taking a Crytek stick removing any hairline bursts they're not really necessary because everything gets machined off on the end anyway but for handling and measuring purposes that's a good touch part out continuing now we're event on the milling machine I have a grinding wise held in my large wise because I like these slightly elevated precision it's a little bit more sensible with the fine screw feet and it's overall a little bit more accessible I spoke glued in a gauge block here to act as parallel for the parts it's on and I super glued on here a second gauge block to act as work stop and all we have to do in this setup is mill a flat and drill a hole and bore it we start with a six millimeter six foot carbide end mill and revealing a point four millimeter deep flat on this part see not not every step on every part that's made in a shop that has to make money is all about material removal sometimes it's about the small cuts 2.5 millimeter carbide drill running also at 1500 rpm now the last tool is we will help the UPA one boring hat with a tiny carbide boring bar a bit big careful I don't want to change the see height to keep my X Y precision dead accurate if you move the z-axis on this machine and tends to to shift a little bit so I set it up in a way that I can do all my operations without moving the C axis and that means that I have to thread the boring head head in which the boring bar between the jaws of device we were taking about four cuts this has to be a relatively precise fit this is a press fit with another tiny part and press fits with small parts are always a bit tricky and we run it at a thousand rpm I wish I hadn't in fact I ordered a different boring head for the future a small schmitt boring head that can run up to 3000 4000 rpm the UPA one is limited to 1000 rpm that's what stated in the manual you can probably run it at 3000 if the slide is almost a centre like in this case but I don't dare to I don't want to get hit on the head by this thing that's reasonably annoying I just set my C height of the tool by approaching the the milled surface and looking at the light gap the depth is not very critical just cannot be 2 T and put some blue paint on here so we see when it actually cuts I barely took our cut that's good now we take ten micron cut okay that cleaned it up completely and we can move the table out just idiot check last two pins here and I have a two point six in a two point five nine millimeter pin and those are my my gauging tools and once this slides in ever so once I can put this in the bore completely I know I'm good if the two point six millimeter slides in we have a problem there we go that's that's perfect fit I'm not going to complain about this I need a little bit of force to push it at 2.59 you want me to pin in and the 2.6 barely starts oops using a four flew the carbide chamfer mill to put ever so slightly come to come to sing gone here deburring yet and this one is done this is really the kind of work I like to do I do not have much interest in work with large material removal or large parts that's that's not my expertise this is what I like to do so here's a close-up of the part you can see the board cross hole and of course drilling and boring creates a burr on the inside of the of the other hole and how do you deeper that that that's kind of tricky and the way I came up with I have hardened 2.6 millimeter pin this is a lot of punch and die tooling 2.6 million high speed steel punch and it's ground sharp on the end as a sharp edge not t-bird and we just take the part and this is a two point six millimeter hole on the end and we just shear off the bird on the inside like this and there is the chip from the bird hard to show on camera but when I focus on the inside of the bore there is no burr left the sharp pin sheared it away cleanly not leaving a secondary burr I bet that I did that previously on other parts and it works usually quite well if that doesn't work you have to come in with some kind of a tiny scraper or tiny abrasive brush and try to deeper and break the edge of the cross hole that's quite annoying the next step is to cut this 45-degree angle here and pour out a pocket diameter five point four millimeter one millimeter deep and this geometry that you can see this is what we get as a result I have a 5c collet block at an angle at 45 degree of course my y's have a screw check over here to balance out the vise jaw so I don't rock the ana lasting crap out of the y straw and the way you do this you clamp this a little bit with the Y's and you're put in your screw check you tighten it ever so slightly up and then you torque down the Y's itself then it's nice and balanced and you don't crook the movable jaw like crazy this is the three point eight millimeter collet that's not a standard size 5 C when you buy 5c collet here the cheap ones come in point five millimeter increments and you buy expensive one they come in point one increments I took a cheap three millimeter call it and board it out to three point eight we take our part remember the part has a flat milled on here this goes down and we tighten the collar block ever so slightly and when I take a five point five millimeter wrench I can tweak the rotation of the part like this so that's what we're doing to indicate the part well we bring in our stylist close to the work and as the surface that we can indicate is quite short a tone about three to four nine long I'm using a two micron indicator here so we get a usable result so we Traverse and it's dropping so we take the wrench on this side we just torque it a little bit traverse back and we're already pretty darn good so over here we have 50 and over here we have 43 43 that means we have to to raise it over here a little bit okay I like that we start at 46 and we drop off it's basically cero cero side to side okay Center the part in Y and touched off on this edge here you move it up until on the edge until the edge finder kicks over and then you're exactly on the edge or surface you're touching off then you enter just a half diameter of your edge finder into the Dro and yes I'm edge finding on an edge the theoretical sharp edge if we deeper this edge with a heavy chamfer beforehand we would have a problem now because then we would be at somewhere but due to habit an experienced eye deeper parts during machining very very minut so I can't take edges as a reference in some cases and in this case it's not crazy critical so I can touch up on the edge if this didn't work I would have I would make a small pluck that goes into spore-bearing ball on the end a tooling ball that gives me a theoretical center point above this bore that I can indicate for an indicator if you have no idea what I'm talking about joepie did an excellent video on tooling balls and that would be a great application for that but I can get away with the accuracy in this case without the tooling ball now we switch to a six millimeter carbide end mill running at 3000 rpm and again we touch off up here on the surface [Music] and you saw me taking fairly light passes I could take this whole bulk of material in one pass without a problem but doesn't make sense in this case the additional time to machine it is minut and the safety not to to shift the setup remove the part in the collet or do something else stupid having that confidence is way more important than crazy material removal rates and here we are again with the will of the boring head we moved to our final hole location I created a lot of those dimensions in CAD just by doing helping construction lines because the original drawings didn't have those dimensions of course okay here you can see the tool this is a small solid carbide boring bar I have no idea who makes this one a friend sent me years ago a ton of them and I don't use them that much but when I do they're really nice so thank you you know who you are we first boring head back then we touch off on surface we're touching off a little bit of paint it was a long way and running at the thousand rpm again okay to take an actual cut this is too much material still so we traversed ahead back a little bit more right so we're taking 500 micron per diameter per pass so this is not feel aversion here but I can tell you that the bore gauge just has tiny little bit of drag and the bore there we go ten parts finished all the bores are done i roughly deeper them so any birds not interfere with any following machining next will be to cut the radius on the end here that will be interesting because it has to be on a 45 degree angle again and then last step is to to cut two point four millimeter wide slots on the back with a tiny slitting saw we'll see how that goes I have to cut two slots on the end of the part and I make this little fixture that Orient's part correctly and holds it securely place it slit here with what bandsaw and has em sorry cross group to pinch it and it's held out here in device and yes I balanced out the wise jaw again not to rock it too crazy and to get a secure grip on this part if you don't do this the holding force on on a part out here is a little bit bad because you're basically only holding you're not in a line contact not in a area contact I will show the fixture once I'm done with this run of parts it's already set up obviously and I have no stop for the height I'm touching off on the top surface of the clamped part in here there's a point four millimeter slitting saw blade and just by eyeballing that's not that's not good enough so I'm doing the old indicator trick where you bring in an indicator on the quill of the machine you have a touch at the top of the saw blade until you have a little bit of preload on the indicator and now when we make contact with the part with the saw blade the indicator will show how much the saw blade deflects let me know let me show you just don't go crazy there you see it right at this point we're making contact with the part now you can either preload it a little bit like go pre-loaded 0.2 0.0 2 millimeters and hit that number in your Dro or you just move it to a point where you move the needle ever so slightly and that's what I'm going to do in this case that's good enough now we get rid of the indicator move it clear drop down or our dimension 1 point 1 millimeter and have it run at 300 rpm it's a little bit fast but we're cutting almost no material the fine-tooth blade a very thin wall so this is good and we can run this drive without a problem okay sideview loadings a fixture that's the fixture and cross you have a large cutout down here and the parts have two flat that remained earlier and part goes in like this and the flat Orient's against that surface on on the fixture so it's oriented correctly then we just push it up until it don't go any further and we tighten down the clamp and screw a little bit doesn't really take a lot this is like a lens wrench and we have excellent lever length ratios so clamping is no issue let's set up on this part this is getting quite involved now now the grinding wise on my rotary table so I can spin it I have the previous fixture here in the vise at 45 degree and I indicated in the pocket that we machined about dis Reece Tepes before in there and I'm indicating that in pretty good and clamp the Vice down so that will allow me to cut this front radius on this part now and I'm using the back side of the fixture as a backstop we take a gauge block butted up against the backside of the fixture pushed apart until I hit the gauge block then I know that I have my right right depth setting should be reasonably repeatable this is only a cosmetic radius so we're not going completely crazy here centering the spindle of the mill over the board pocket this is all not crazy tight tolerance but it's it's a good idea to get it still reasonably accurate so everything every radius blends nicely a badly blended radius doesn't look very good I'm using a four millimeter six flute end mill yes a red ring indicates an end mill for hard milling but these are relatively sharp sharp edged and cut quite nice so I'm using that and the small diameter and I count the flutes means that it's going to run reasonably nice you saw me just swinging the radius took it in two paths this with a at full depth with 0.2 millimeter allowance radius wise and then a finishing climb cut to final dimension and I have to say this works quite well and goes quite fast so let's do the other 10 this was just a setup piece [Music] next are these long slender parts which are Lafe only all that comes now is leave only these are turned also Sri Sri stainless grilled all the way through almost all the way with one moment and the rest for the point seven millimeter drill tiny grooving some close tolerance work pretty tricky part so let's see how this goes part is a long skinny turned piece only turning drilling and deeper and again we start with a six millimeter stalk in this case I use my tool as an actual stop so I do not have to to put in all my length offsets each time I make this part first step is to face it to length and turn the first diameter [Music] yes there are techniques were turned long thin sexual parts in one past fun dimension but I found a diameter to length ratio in this case not to be a big problem I only have to take a measuring cut this just deflects a little bit and I have to take a correction cut this is one eight zero four should be 1/6 minus 50 micron you saw me doing a skim pass balancing cut which has the same depth of cut as my final data cut so I see how my cutting tool behaves and it's it's pretty spot-on final dimension is three point two millimeters - 30 micron there we go that's all DoD turning check quickly or dimensions here 3.2 minus a little bit this needs to be 2.9 without any exact tolerances so 2.90 5 will do and this one should be 1.6 minus 50 micron and we had F 1.59 so very close to nominal staying that close to nominal it's maybe not the best practice but kind of my preferred way sometimes fine fine cut file Oh point four millimeter wide slotting tool grooving tool ground out of solid carbide ie an old anvil touching off checking my my end reference here's a piece of paper and background to get a better contrast try to do this somehow around the camera I'm just checking the light gap between the parting tool and the end of the part moving in I'll lift of paper here so you get a better contrast that's actually a good idea using a small Center drill and switching to a good 1 millimeter drill our parts like these it can not use any rickety old drill that you have lying around in a draw it's you have to inspect it I have to look at it under the microscope or magnification check you're cutting cutting lips if they are in condition checking my see depth zero perfect always double-check [Applause] drilled 13 millimeter deep that's certain times diameter that's what we call him the industry deep hole drilling already small ball knows carbide burr breaking the edge a little bit a piece of krei tech stick did you know that you can shape them on on a belt sander or a bench grinder I do now and all the time my critic sticks get a really worn-out edge and on the belt sander you can read reshape it and give it a nice script Chris Horner that goes into the edge of your part or in the corner looking pretty decent now we switch to a again back to the turning tool for a reason I want to turn down the most of the stock that will form the backside of the part so when I do my second up and a soft call at an emergency call it I did not have to hog off that much material it's much more rigid in this configuration where it's still a large chunk of material okay parting off good again I can show you a tiny trick for parting off small small-caliber work like this that'll check my watch five okay there we go that's our parting off position I will part it off almost all the way through and then I will put a little bit of finger pressure on the side of the part and that will break up the remaining material and not leave any parting off nipple on the end of the part we got almost clean end of the part unfortunately I was not able to film the second side I completely forgot to get to film one part but I can walk you through once the parts were parted off I made an aluminium sub collet which has the contour of the part with all its steps machined into it bored into it and then I slid it with a small slitting saw three times to make it into a functional collet and I turned a groove in here to make the flex more easy the way this works is goes in a collet sup call it is in part drops in and I can clamp it I was able to drill the end with a 70 micron drill and turn down the OD polish deeper done not much to do on the second side of these parts that's the result I will show a close-up after that after this here is one of the scrap parts I made everything from from here at the end up up to the groove that's all first side operation all turned in one set up then I make the sub collet held it like this and cut the second side and drilled the end with a point seven millimeter drill 700 micron the other side has a thousand micron otherwise known as a millimeter all surfaces are I hit everything once I was done with a with a Crytek stick rub a bound fine abrasive and this takes off all tiny birds when you deburr when you break an edge with a file you will create a secondary burr and the crate x rubber abrasive will take care of that so these parts are basically done last step is to throw them in the tumbler next part is simple this is just a small stainless pushing with precision diameter on the ID and OD we start with a six millimeter piece of stock again I used I use the same diameter stock for all of this of this project just to keep the material I need to order a minimum setting the stick out with a steel scale and using a stock D CMT insert that has geometry for stainless to rough away most of it material taking a facing cut and removing the bulk of the material in and one one fairly heavy cut then I change to a CCM T insert that I ground a slightly positive chipbreaker in it with a tiny tiny corner radius this cuts very freely without much pressure using some cutting oil and doing the first cleanup pass [Music] at this point it's good idea to check your dimension and use the dimension you you measured to check against your Dro and take a finishing cut when turning such small Daimler's I found cutting oil to work exceptionally well to deal with the low surface speed issue that you have on turning small diameters I'm turning the small press-fit diameter and will be needed to press the part into into the housing machined earlier ruby stones file for devouring hitting the flat this takes takes care of any raised areas tiny edge break very important for a press fit otherwise you fear the material out of the bore switching to one point nine millimeter stack stub lengths drill bit during titanium nitride coated some cutting oil and drilling all the way through slightly deeper than the final part will be as I need to read this hole using a small countersink - deeper - - Pradesh tendus by hand and switching to a 2h7 reamer and yeah this is on purpose completely out of free reaming at reasonably low speed about 150 rpm P horn cutoff tool with triangular carbide insert interest ground with a slight angle to the left about 5 degree so doesn't leave her in the spur or a nap from parting off holding the park during cutoff this is of course not safe but I would prefer not to lose the part in the chip bin last part are these small that's called they they they're like a small cap board on the inside with flat bottom hole our pocket and turned on the OD to a precision fit and then parted off and cleaned up on the backside by hand so these are reasonably simple this part starts again with six moon in the stock it will only be slightly smaller than the stock so I can skip the roughing pass and go directly to my my finishing tool the department's ecmt insert and cut the old I'm cutting cutting the stock to a mirror on a large length than the part because that way I can do multiple parts make one part one off with one part one off and I don't have to turn the OD for each individual part as usual checking DoD and taking it to file size switching to four millimeter end mill to rough out the flat bottom hole [Music] using the tiny during boring bar to to cut the pocket to depth very careful these these tools are fragile and they can break but if you if you handle them with care he'll do a great job I'm taking point to mean the depth of cut [Music] cutting the ID to size and the idea of this is part is relatively used I mentioned it's not a crazy tight tolerance and facing the floor with the bottom of the pocket all the way to the center to get a nice flat surface [Music] using a crate X rather abrasive stick to break all the edges and corners remove any hair longer wire burs and just shine off the the overall surface double check in with my finger that's not recommended technique parting tool using a magnifier to to line up the edge of the tool with the edge of the part moving over the thickness of the part and parting off I'm not parting it off all the way I leave some material then I change to a 45 degree chamfer tool and to a backside chain through before I finally part it off that spares me the need to make a soft collared or an emergency call it to face and chamfer the backside of the softest part I will completely part it off to final thickness and I will just clean up the the backside of the part on some 400 grit Emery cloth and remove the remainder of the parting operation I checked that was the customer he is perfectly fine with that solution and it makes the part a little bit cheaper again one last minut deeper before I poured it off and there we go after parts in the tumbler and as per request of the design of the parts I'm using these conical stones as a tumbling media those are plastic with an abrasive in them I used to stand and about two of these tiny cups of water and little bit of dish washing soap and there we go so I want to talk quickly about the boring system I used for the small-diameter work on belief that's a gearing system your grooving that's German company that makes cutting tools in white white version variation and this is their 1:04 system the four stands for the diameter of the shank this diameter here is in this 1:04 system four millimeter they also have a 106 108 and a 110 system which has been a 10 millimeter shake but I pretty much decided on the 104 system for my small work because there is a large range of tools they have boring to have ID threading they have slotting tools for four key ways internal torques profile internal squares internal hacks like single point shaping with with belief that's quite nifty and their system is quite clever because it has no offence the shank profile like the P Horned stuff has P horn has a trim has a kind of triangular shape which Orient's the part which makes making the hold is quite hard Guren uses a round shank which also send wick has a round shank system I finger has a round shank system a lot of manufacturers have them but I decided on Guren because I get pretty good conditions when buying from them I make the holders I make two of the holders myself and they have basically a four millimeter hole and a screw on top that clamps apart and the trick is the cross pin back here this is a 100 meter pin Mac goes all the way through and two shanks after saengil ground on the end and this slips under the pin and Orient's tool always correctly so there is no guesswork when your tool is correctly oriented and the cool thing is you can grind your own tools for that system to take a formula to convert blank cut a 45 degree angle on the back and you can and it Orient's itself and for grinding tools in that system I made this adapter for to Ankara grinder it has it's it's it has a snap milled in here to have two diameter so I can use the alignment finger of the d-pad cutter to get my orientation it has the same cross pin that allows me to orient the tool in here then I'm ready to grind but sometimes it's just nice to be able to buy a good working tool without having to grind and especially with the small boring bar here that was money spent well worth this is like 20 euros and lasted me all the parts and under the microscope it's still perfectly fine it has beautiful radius ground onto it it's titanium nitride coated it's just a nice tool this stock this works on a bore 1.5 millimeter and larger i've also this one here this is same 104 system just a large boring bar this time it's titanium aluminum nitride coated and this goes the same way into this this holder it's a very flexible system I will also make an adapter for my will help the boring head so I can use these tools in them and for my new Micro boring head during machining those parts I just showed I realized that the wall hopper with it's a thousand RPM max rating can be problematic for such tiny for such tiny parts so I went on eBay and found a used MIT boring head which takes six millimeter tooling and has a micro chest here on this ring you spin the knurled ring and it adjust itself it has a very small adjustment range but I need this only for holes up to maybe ten millimeters so another tool for the Arsenal this will need severe motive modification it's much more stable one shank but it will cut it off and turn it to a straight shank so it can use directly in a 10 millimeter collet which will make tool change going from pre-drilled to precision boring head here go very fast here are the other tools I'm using this is the solid carbide turning tool as a nice break the ground into it and is diamond lapped on every surface and it has a tiny tiny radius on it works beautiful was an old hard milling and very good car back quality the 0.4 millimeter wide grooving tool I was a garland out of an old ant mill as I said old and mills are usually excellent called by quality nice fine grain can be ground very sharp this is ground on the big grinder the parting tool I use these triangular in the inserts these are P horn I'm using these because I got about a hundred of them for from from a viewer sent to me used once and you can grind and regrind and reshape them a million times before they are completely gone works quite well make the holder myself has has just a shape in milled into it and has screw bolt not on the side holding the the insert it's not the ideal design in reality a clamp that pushes down from the top on the insert would be better but works so far use this for maybe five years now quite nice oh and what one last thing in regards to lace tooling I do not like we block tool holders that have a we cut out for the round tooling goes in I don't like them I make things like this with a precision precision fit on the shank and then I slit them almost all the way through out of laziness I did this standing upright and I built a slot with a three millimeter ball and all almost all the way through then I case hardened it using a case hardening compound similar to case a night and cleaned it up that's that's my tool block four four six millimeter round chain tool and yes I usually do not bother to cut off the old end mill side doesn't hurt when you clamp a tooling block like this usually you clamp only over the tool not back here in thin air because it will permanently deform or break you can see all the parts in a tumbled finish all cleaned audre sonic cleaned and ready for assembly as you can see the tumbling media left a nice even surface finish it removes every ever-so-slight / evens out fine tool marks and just makes it look reasonably professional you

Channel: Stefan Gotteswinter

Views: 56,093

Rating: 4.9650254 out of 5

Keywords: machining, stainless steel, kollimator, optics, optiken, lichtleiter, optical fibre, rotary table, emco super 11, super 11, optimum mb4, opti mb4, zx45, rf45, drehmaschine, fräsmaschine, vibratory tumbler

Id: QJIdKqzWuDY

Length: 61min 46sec (3706 seconds)

Published: Sun Feb 09 2020