Benchtop beltgrinder modifications

[Music] hey welcome back today we talk about this thing this is a belt sander disc sander combination machine 25 millimeter wide belt 706 2 millimeter long I think in the US they are sold as a 1 by 30 belt sander I saw versions of this without the belt belt sander just a motor with with this belt sander attachment here this one has a disc sander on the other side which I'm not very keen off I have no real use for a disc sander but we'll see what I'm interested in is the belt sander attachment I have this thing now for two or three weeks and I already used used the heck out of the belt sander I have no idea how I was working in here without a belt sander deburring when I did the fabrication work on my new wealth cart I used the belt sander a lot for chamfering the the anglers removing mill scale from the ends of the angle iron for welding deburring regrinding Tungsten's for my TIG welder just everything that I do not want to do on my bench grinder deburring parts on a bench grinders very cringy rounding off the ends of parts just things like that like that I have a 80 grit sir Konya aluminum oxide belt on it this works very well cuts relatively freely I have also coarse and finer belts but I think I will stick with the 80 grit seems like a good compromise for my work has a ginormous 250 watt motor and I think the motor is the only part on this thing that's made out of Steel except for some smaller attachment like the belt guide here but it it works even the dust collection back here works kinda if you hook up the shop back it works Mike right is the table here this is diecast aluminium and it has the belt sander or white belt sander finish on it it's not very even this table has a point five millimeter ditch in the center which is quite a lot if I want to square up parts with this this is not really acceptable and it's so soft if you push something with a slight burro but that's harder than say a piece of butter it will scratch the table I ordered the plasma cut disc of Steel about the same size a pro metre thick this is just cold rolled plate this will need some finishing this is really butt ugly and it has this big old curve there's the Pierce point for the plasma cutter Pierce the material so that's the table and also this let's take off the let's take this table off okay as you can see there is not much material in this table this is super super lightweight not a lot really no substance there has an end stop so you can set your zero against this belt guide back here the belt guide is the next problem as you can see if you push up a little bit a bit against it it bends this table is can be adjusted on an angle so you can grind bevels I have no interest in that so I will remove this this belt guide back here the housing the housing of this belt grinding attachment is diecast aluminium and this belt guide is just screwed up again on it oh yeah that's the that's the original belt guide problem is when you bent the table on the load or you bend this by pushing or shoving your work against it you're not going to get a square result anymore so this seems to be a recurring topic in my shop Robin ruin said he of course has a very good solution for this it took a high speed steel blank which is not because it's hard it will not wear it will not be afraid at anytime soon by the back of the belt this gives a very nice belt guide this is a trapezoidal high speed steel bank so we'll have to grind it parallel and I will not mount this high speed steel blank this belt guides to the housing anymore it will be mounted to the table itself so if the table deflects under load no matter what we do is stay square and due to the fact that the high speed steel blank here is about twice the thickness of the original guide it's also stiffer against loaded against bending in itself and let's take let's take this cover here off I have to find a better solution for this cover to I do not want to run this grinder without the cover because this is integral to the dust collection and really I do not want both grinder without dust collection it's already messy enough in here it's a free roll grinder all plastic wheels and yeah you can see there is a lot of grinding dust in there I used it a lot and there is some reasonable run out on this wheel I might try to true it up or I will just take a piece of aluminium and turn on you one may be the added inertia of a heavier wheel will also make this thing run a little bit snow smoother right now this is quite noisy and in case you wonder why I have two of these plates here friend of mine has exactly the same so I will make two sets of these parts you might enjoy it cleaning up the plasma cuts discs on the lathe holding it down a magnetic Chuck and I put a small Santa drill in the center of this disk and I'm supporting it with the life center because I don't not want to take in chances of shifting this large place during a heavy cut fairly heavy kept off the magnetic Chuck and doing some major damage running at 200 rpm and the feed off point oh six millimeters per revolution for for my this is fairly large for me I'm not concerned about the faces at the moment I'm just cleaning up the the plasma cut early after I did the welding there was a little bracket that gets welded on this disk it will not be flat anymore anyway [Applause] there we go chamfer both sides of the disc there we go one disc 148 millimeter let's get tail stuck out of the way and I'm clamp it yo one steel disc reasonable finish one to go I start the backside of this plate so I do not scratch out my my magnetic Chuck like crazy bring him mark the center of sharpie with a permanent felt marker finding my Center roughly and turning on the magnet [Music] there we go okay ready to go quick look at the drawing top bottom view with the tap that bolts against the belt Sanders housing this is the hundred forty eight millimeter disc that we just machine them now we need to cut the mills cutout here for both the belt to go in and out and the the belt guide that bolts onto these two m6 threads which I forgot to dimension here I'm going to cut the disc cutter than the holes in both parts at the same time because I do not want to do the setup twice a piece of sacrificial aluminum here and device I used this as a kind of a fixture plate that has a few threads in it but that doesn't matter for this application now both parts go on here now I need to align them to each other precision ground magnets do this job very well this large one has been heavy like wants to tip over two and three that aligns that you disc discs quite nice to each other now we double check here in the edges so this bigger magnet is quite annoying okay nicely aligned to each other now we can use some large clamps some heavy clamps to hold this together and against the fixture plate can take the magnets out it's two more clamps for good measure with the clamps out here on the on the OD of the parts we cannot use is an indicator to to dial this part in but we can use an edge finder pick up both sides find the Center pick up both ends in this direction find the center and it's almost good as good as sweeping it will dull in tile test indicator [Music] picked up the first side moving over not moving the why direct if you move them up y-direction you're wasting time there we go dropping down picked up the second side now moving to the center of the picked up to dimension there we go let's Center now we do the same in y direction and I hope my travel I think I cannot travel okay we cannot pick up the center in this direction so we will just pick up this edge here hi spot here and go from there okay yes I think I'm going with a corncob style roughing in milk this is a heist high speed steel end mill so we're not going to run it at crazy speeds [Music] got my cut out 0.5 millimeters allowance in each direction so now we can change to a six millimeter six mil in a standard finishing end mill and clean up those walls but the okay to leave them both roughing in no finish but no we're not going to do that [Music] [Music] off-camera made these two parts nothing special it's just 12 mm cold rolled material and a few slots milled in it these two are the slots that match up with the hole pattern and the table like this you can remove to the back and the center slot is where I will silver braze the high speed steel blank high speed steel being what it is of course will keep its hardness when silver soldered or sila braced it's not going to get soft by this treatment I also milled a step in here the step is here to act as a relief down here between the high speed steel plank and the surface which rests later up against the bottom of the table and this relief is there so I can machine a surface here through to the high speed steel blank if there is any movement from silver soldering which I do not really expect but it's good to keep them keep the options open and this is not going to be a surface grinder in the end anyway but it should be at least half-decent square to each other these parts are right off the mill I just divert them a little bit with the files I do not cut myself while handling them final deburring will done in the end next level surface grind these trapezoidal high speed steel blades they are square here and square here but those two surfaces here and here or not parallel so we'll put them this way on the grinder and clean them up I already ground the the taper out of the a trapezoidal shape out of the high speed steel blanks then clean them up completely there is a little bit left here but this side gets silver soldered into D the block and this side is worthy the belt runs over so this has Blanchard ground finish as usual so we're going to clean this up and give it a lengthwise grind with a fine fine dressed wheel our only taking off a few microns [Music] [Laughter] [Music] [Music] took me 35 microns to grind out all the marks from the Blanchard grind there we go it looks like a half-decent finish to me besides a bit rougher didn't redress the wheel but as I said this side is not a functional surface next step will be to take these high speed steel blanks or lent them correctly like this and fill the soldered and in for self soldering I want to clamp them together with Weiss grips but the problem is when you clamp silver a brazing joint completely tight there is no way you get your silver solder over the whole surface between the gap and that's what gives you the strength so the way I learnt to do it during apprenticeship we took we took a center punch big ol centre punch and we put four dimples in each corner each corner of the surface you're braising or soldering this gives you about 0.05 2.1 millimeters of gap that's where your silver solder can flow same on this one there we go now we can clamp it shut but we still have a gap for the solder to go of course we have to put the flux between those two parts before we clamp it together one thing I was surprised your hospitals your bank that basically not move when I removed almost one millimeter of material from one side it's still straight as an arrow this is new old stock made in the GD our German Democratic Republic high-speed steel and that's the flux I'm using this font our game F 300h ultra and T there's a high temperature silver solder or high-temperature flux for steel copper tungsten tungsten carbide can this stuff gets very crumbly over time like this you can take some distilled water and and give some life back into it usually this stuff is always dried up that's Tom Lipton showed silver brazing yeas a day and as he said do not put flux fur do not want silver solder in the end so spread it out nice and even take our high speed steel take our calipers that are preset to 20 millimeters place it here and we'll take our prepared clamp clamp it together double-check it good remove the flux worried we don't want it okay already for brazing got my four to six millimeter rosebud torch here and the small Gregerson torch and I'm using this stuff jet a it's a one millimeter diameter silver solder of a 30% silver in it yeah I overheated this one over here the solder flowed and then I overhears it and I get this this ugly dingleberry here that's what probably you know this one really flowed very nicely but it's alright now crazy hot okay I'd be blessed at the part and they come out knows the solder joint this they're relatively decent I'm not it's okay I got some silver here and here it wikked through to the other side should be a sound joint I don't have any I don't worry the nice thing about silver soldering compared to welding instead the distortion you get from silver soldering is very very small I'm probably not going to regret this flat surface here it it has a tiny tiny bow in the middle so these are the the second one is already I put it already together with the table here is already in place I cannot hold it yet to the grinder because the mounting brackets to both the table to it it's missing yet but I have already done the belt guide here in place this is looking very good the idea behind this the sinus is really good as I said it's not my design when you put pressure against this belt but by grinding here and you bend the table mounting on the grinder the whole table shifts back the belt guide here is flexing with it so within reason your grind will stays kinda squarish because you will still get the belt is elastic and to want to pull forward and want to roll over the edge but overall it's going to stay very straight especially if you put a lot of load on here and we bend it for vert then it's very good and it stays at full contact and the belt is running here of the edge I got I have to round over these edges here and down here on the on the high speed steel belt guide so I do not tear up the backside of the belts but that's the basic idea behind this next will be to fabricate the the bracket that mounts to the grinder and weld it in place I'm machining the tabs that get welded to the bottom of the table these are milled out of six millimeter sheet metal now cold rolled plate and outside dimensions are already milled didn't show that that's not very exciting this is also not very exciting but I need to fill the video cutting the slot pre drilling the end drilling both before I change to an end mill using a parallel as a rough stop here the location of the of this part of the slot in the part is not super critical point one millimeter left or right but will not matter at all a slot is way too long anyway stub lengths eight millimeter for flute curb identity I'm opening up the pre-drilled holes with D of date moment mil before I cut the slot [Applause] [Music] [Music] I dropped down one millimeter increments and then until I was all the way through then I stepped over 0.1 millimeters on each side to clean up the sidewalls if you're just plunging down full slotting cut the sidewalls of a slot never get very nice during the the slot with a chamfer mill running the chamfer mill at the center of the slot Center to center of the end diameters so it just has to drop down move and to end and get a chamfer all the way around that way [Music] there we go I could do that with die grinder and the burr too but this is faster and give some more consistent result I'm pretty much ready to weld but I need to clean up the area where I'm going to put the weld I got a new toy in the shop this is a flex shaft flex shaft motor unit a pendant motor like the British say this consists of a 450 watt motor that's hanging back here with a flexible shaft going to a handpiece this is like a dremel on steroids this is the quite heavy duty handpiece this goes up to 6 millimeter call it's all almost Qala inch and for the most part it replaced my my 90 err grinder I used to use this with this 3m rowlock pad for small grinding jobs but this is awful loud it takes a ton of air and it has no torque at lower speeds this thing on the other hand has tremendous torque at low speed and with the foot controller down there you have a lot of control this is really cool for dome is a very common manufacturer of these units Fiat this is a hot spot also made in Germany I got this used of eBay there are all the expensive fish you buy them you there we go this thing has some this really has a good bite cleans off the scaling from from the rolled plate I felt a problem even with a very clocked up and dull sanding pad like this seems like I'm collecting hand grinders at the moment I have the 60,000 rpm arrow die grinder I have the hospital axe shaft I have my small Crocs on electric die grinder if the large 90 err die grinder I have a large electric die grinder seems like this has no end I figured the alignment already out and I have a magnet in here a gauge block here that's my spacing in this direction and in this direction I put a screw in here and the stack of gauge blocks right up against it then I can push my part in here I had to mill a little bit clearance back here so we will see later why and now the part is pretty decently aligned now I can clamp it okay the large Bessy clamp does the trick large yeah I'm using gauge blocks for well setup these are Peter gate blocks that have not much precision left but for welding they are her still okay wiping it down with some acetone [Music] for my standards this is a pretty decent weld I think I have some some spots here and here and here and here and here and here and here an arc strike here and here that shouldn't be there not sure yet what I'm going to do about the table top I might face it we'll see depends on how bad it is flatness wants [Music] so after face milling the front the the tabletop I flipped it around and I'm also milling the mounting surface where the belt guide bolts to so everything is in the end square even if I have significant distortion from welding this thing boat by roughly one millimeter by by the huge amount of wild metal and heat input I put into it so this this plate but hatred chipped seriously on me but that's not a problem there's a lot of material on it and I can machine it true and square and every aspect that I need so Savvas sixty millimeter face mill running in a thousand RPM taking point two millimeter cuts this setup it's not the most sturdy but it's it's it's fast to set up there's just a tool and plate the large parallel device and two clamps holding a table with the machined surface down onto the plate here you can see how uneven it cleans up here we have fairly deep cut point six millimeters already and here we have still the scaling of the plate as I said another big deal there we go now cleaned up completely and we can tear down the setup - so doing the belt back plate and mounting bracket need a little bit of squaring up this stayed straight but the angle between the high speed steel plate here and my mounting bracket here this is not 100% perfect it deviates about hundred micron over fifty millimeters so I dropped this piece here device on two parallels with the of the face of the high speed steel blank like this press down and I clamp it and now I can side meal this bracket square to the underside of this high-speed is your blank yeah we will clear the high-speed still black there we go that took point six millimeters to square this up this was not only tilted this way not tipped over like this but it was also like this turned counterclockwise about 0.6 millimeters over the whole length so now this is Square and parallel and whatnot to every aspect of this high-speed still blank so I took out the upper guide roller of the belt sander off grinder and as you can see it's on its axle and it's free spinning because it has two ball bearings in it the bearings feel okay ish but the run-out was all over the shot this the Sun ran out almost one millimeter on top I wanted to turn it down and leave but I couldn't figure out a very good way to hold it on the shaft have it run out in its own bearings and turn down the OD so I decided to go to the - and cutter grinder hold it on the shaft so that the wheel can spin freely and I use my my cordless drill with a plastic disc in here that has an o-ring and rubber o-ring on on it they use this to drive the roller I just rested here on my dressing diamond press it up against the wheel here and let it spin granny will spins also of course and then I'm just cylindrical grinding this wheel all three wheels on this belt grinder have a crown you need the crown so the the belt test track properly to my knowledge one wheel were crown is enough this grinder has three wheels for the crown sir I will try to grind this to a full cylindrical shape these are solid Delrin so shouldn't be a problem to reduce it in diameter [Music] [Music] okay I destroyed the original drive wheel but then I lay them on a mandrel the turn tod true and at some point it catched and it destroyed itself which was a little bit expected because it's all very thin and the Delrin they used this crazy brittle I don't know Delrin to beat that brittle sounds almost like a blender with an end with a different plastic I'm not sure so I found a piece of phenolic linen reinforced phenolic which is quite heavy the right thickness and the right size so going to make a new wheel will basically bandsaw out a disc out of this material I'm using the linen reinforced phenolic here because it's very tough material it's a little bit heavier than Delrin especially for such a this part is made with massive material reduction here so it can be injection molded cannot injection mold a massive part it would shrink beyond any usability so that's the reason why these are so thin walled and ripped and of course how's it keep up because you don't need as much plastic but in my case I can use a massive chunk of material this will give additional mass more inertia once it's rotating and hopefully stabilize everything a little bit so bandsaw this out kind of squarish octagon shape whatever [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] okay over the leaf I put a large center drill in the rough sawn disk just pressing it against the half opened six jaw with a live Center that's called pressure turning with a very safe method of turning a rough sawn blank into a round disk with tail stock in the center drill here it cannot fly out it's absolutely impossible you would have to here off the center the tip of your life center which will not happen the only thing that can happen is that this is that the disc spins against the chuck so the trucks keep spinning but the blank standstill that can happen if you take too deep of a couch okay cool cut phenolic makes an awesome awesome awful mess so we definitely are going to use dust extraction we can change to the different Chuck jaws grab it on DoD take facing cut drill it to drill and remit to 14 millimeters the original one has a d-shaped bore which is in my mind not necessary they did this to transfer the torque but the this grinder has 250 watt that's equates to very little torque and the friction between the face of this and the shoulder of the shaft applied by the the fastener that holds it all together that's way sufficient I am not worried of any kind here I would take a very minor facing cut now we can drill it out to 14 millimeter drill dream it running a boring bar through there so it runs really nice and true a drill doesn't do that a drill will wander off course the moment you give it a chance but a boring bar will create its own true path and I'm going to bore this to thirteen point eight million then remit to 40 flip it around take a tiny facing path I'm not too worried about cleaning it up completely I just wanted to be reasonable balanced one new wheel for both kinda looks like a wooden wheel okay I think I will leave it here for now I put the phenolic drive wheel back on the motor of my I have to put a crown on all of the wheels this frame is too flexible - you have to belt Trek by only one ground pulley so had to put put a crown on all three wheels but press more precise than the original ones it's just a three degree bevel about a quarter of the width of the wheel on each side and that's the crown that's good enough all's running nice and true now it's more quiet than before I ditched the spring of the belt tensioner back here the way I'm changing belts now is I locked it in the most ultra precision and then I just forced the belt over the edge of the of the idler wheel and that tensions the belt to a nice accreta the frame has enough flex so this works the table is in place with the high speed steel belt guide this this is really cool let me put the guide the guard back on so I can use just extraction and we will grind something these are all the modifications said I'm going to do for now and in the future I want to put a diamond wheel on the other side I already removed the disc grinder here I will put a diamond wheel on here and an adjustable table basically this table just out of steel so it doesn't this is very grabby when you try to push something out of steel over it and I want to use this sight to resharpen carbide tooling I need to turn on adapter sleeve for this this is a bit okay I have a piece of tool steel here which has two factory edges here and the sawing off on the end is not very square okay I have two part in the wise and I'm a precision square your blade square knife edge and let's check for a light gap there is a really tiny gap over here this is 10 micron shim stock this barely goes in it was 40 micron this doesn't go in no length of 50 millimeters and it's square within maybe 20 microns and that's all for belt sander I guess that's okay ish for my purposes very happy with the modifications I will revisit this project at a later time when I get a diamond wheel for it until then I will just use it it already has proven to be useful in my shop in an unmodified state and now with the with the precision belts plate here it will be even more valuable especially a grinding radii and edges of parts and stuff like that I will use the high power of this annual see is in future videos definitely so thank you all for watching and see you next time [Music]

Channel: Stefan Gotteswinter

Views: 86,938

Rating: 4.965343 out of 5

Keywords: 1x30, beltgrinder, beltsander, bandschleifer, tig welding, tig, brazing, silberlot, hartlöten, optimum mb4, 25x762

Id: kYmsXgIsZBQ

Length: 46min 27sec (2787 seconds)

Published: Thu Jun 20 2019