The better(?) threading gage - Die bessere(?) Gewindestahllehre

hi welcome back sorry for the absense of project because in the last time but I had a lot going on around the house and also in the shop I have a new milling machine in here as you saw in my last video and yeah that took up a lot of time and I wasn't the right move to make videos while welding up the stand and setting up the machine and stuff like that I just want to get it done and I were back on regular schedule and yesterday I was single points reading parts on the lathe and I realized how stupid these fishtail gauges are used them as a crime engage for the 60 degree point on your single point tool and also to set the tool up on the lathe so it's so it's square to the your workpiece and there was a problem with piece let's say I have two of these fish tailgate roof the nice thing for a manufacturer of courses as they are made of sheet metal they can chest punch them out of sheet metal and that's fast and cheap but there was a problem with these on late normally have of course a round workpiece that you want to sing a threat and use put your fish 10 gauge against it to set up your turning tool just reading to but yeah it's a round work piece and the thin piece of sheet metal it's it's hard to get alignment right and yeah I think that's not the best design in the world to be honest I came up with this drawing this is a fishtail gage here was a 60-degree notch and in front here are 260 or 30-degree poin angles they have a possibility to align you're turning to from this side or if you're using a boring bar a shredding and inside shredding tool to align it from here against this 60-degree pebbles and as a feature it has a AV cut out and this we will align the gauge to the circular around workpiece so it's it's registered against it and I think that's easier to use than this fishtail which you have always to kind of eyeball in the right location and in this video we will machine this out of in fact I love this piece off drill rod and we're going to heat treat its turrets withstands the use and abuse and the machine shop and see how this works out it just changed my mind the piece of trailer rod I had was too small and I'm going with this piece of carbon steel robot did you know a machine yes the new machine and I set up the workpiece and the wise sons were going to square it up you might have noticed that I went that way that the cutting edge of the of the end mill was always entering from the edge to the inside like this that way the burr produced by the end mill is reduced very much you should do it the other way around the the cutting edge will crack the burr out from the edge and produce a massive pearl that way when the cutting edge goes inverts from the from the edge you produce very little to almost no bar that's the easy way to make life easier when doing work on a milling machine okay clamp it down and knock it down on the parallels I showed you I show these a few times here on this channel and I used them a lot these are just cut-offs from copper rod they used them as a knocker the copper is soft enough so it doesn't bounce back very much and you can give a pretty precise tap indeed that would be even better but I don't want handle that with my bare hands what's really bad as a drift is as brass the brass is very it's hard and it springs back and it's just I don't like it as and also it tends to shatter around the edges and this is just a high speed steel roughing end mill I'm running it at 600 rpm because I don't want to burn it up and now trim this piece down to length and change to a sri flutes 10 millimeter carbide end mill and we're just going to side mill it until it's the right length we have to mill both sides because the outer surfaces are only rough ground from the steel manufacturer okay first side okay this is not a critical measurement so I just skimmed length and that's the VAR piece so far next thing is to not shout the area where the v-notch will need to be in we're right in the process of roughing out the top pocket I bumped internal edges of the pocket to have nice radii and for that reason I will rough out the pocket with this for food carbide end mill and then I will come back later with a ball and mill and put a nice radius in there the radius is so there will no cracking happen when I hard on this piece but first we need to pick up the edges for roughing out and as this is no precision operation hand knew roughing I'm just going to use the end mill to touch off then of course I'm going to zero the Dro and we're good to go haha and I just messed up I forgot to leave material on for the radius the dammit but that's no that's not the end of the bolt I can move these walls in a bit more okay after part roughed out all around now we have this T shape all around and next step will cut the radius the bottom radius and this ends corner so it doesn't sharp corners are prone to to create cracks when hardened so I don't want to take any chances and yeah make a radius there that's we clamp it a nice day the nice thing that I still have my y direction in the Dro stored I only have to pick up my X direction I could have set a stop but when I flip the part around that will have to pick up the edge anyway so I didn't set a stop okay I rust I finished the radii in the corner on the first side and I'm on the second side I roughed out the radius and now they're done to the last finishing pass okay that's the rough shape of the nice reading gauge let's take a look okay I think the next step will be to cut the to cut the thirty 30 degree address on front and the 60-degree notch in in the center here okay I set the part up in my shop build sign boys there was a video series on this Weiss it's quite useful especially when you need a pretty accurate angle on your workpiece and you don't want to go through a total of tilting your milling middle of machines head or use an actual sign plate or sign bar this is a way faster set up eight and aren't just going to cut down this the side flip the pot around and cut the thirty degree bevel on the other side I put the layout line where to where I have to cut because this is not critical and that's wrong speed we need and are taking pretty light passes at this setup is not the most riches in the world I got one point five millimeters each pass okay there we go that's the first of the two babbled sights on the workpiece okay that's the second beveled site there yeah nor our gauge looks like this next step is to cut the 60 degree notch into the side of the yeah you know it and to the gauge and I want to be the center to be relieved so I going to cut in with a slitting saw for hand and I made a layout line here and at that height I'm going to cut the 60-degree not and also the relief slot and I'm just aligning this by I I have a one millimeter slitting saw here and just bring it on to the layout line okay here we can see the layout line and I'm just the lining these saw blades so it's in the center of this line okay and now we're going to cut in yeah a bit about six millimeters okay I flipped part around I ground a 60 degree single cutter and now we're going to cut the notch again I'm just centering by eye over the over the relief cut blocking the table movements in X zeroing the Dro chest case and running it at 3200 RPM and okay did I mention that I love singing lip cutters they are cheap easy to grind as long as you have a debate grinder and they produce a a pretty good surface finish and they are super cheap you can grind them for almost no cost exactly this is a this is a high speed steel plank I used it's a cobalt 10 blank so it's it's a super high grade of high speed steel that can take pretty higher speeds and our 60 degree notch came out perfectly now we are going to machine the v-notch which will later align this gauge to the workpiece and again I'm using my angle base for the for a small Weiss setup a six millimeter screw for carbide Emily I'm just going to we go down to full depth and then we feed in until it meets up at the center okay now we reached with the lower corner the end mill we reach the center line of our workpiece now can flip it around and do the same again I see wrote the Dro in X direction because I want to go in the same amount from both sides I'm not going to change the depth of cut at least that's the plan and that way I should end up with of a nice centered we slot it's not super critical that the slot is centered but it's nicer part of doing a nice job in my mind okay no you have to ye a lot Finnish yeah last thing that's left to be done is to cut a relief into the center and we're going to do this with the slitting saw again I tilted my small voice by 90 degrees so I can cut the relief slot again I have my one millimeter slitting saw in here and running it at 95 RPM and we dropped some cutting along I just touched off on with the saw blade on the top surface then I went down half the thickness of the saw blade and half the width of my part and that's how I found my Center okay now we're going to home shop heat treat this part we're just going to heat it up until it's cherry red and drop it into oil I'm using vegetable oil because it doesn't smell as much wind herbs I'm not going to anneal it because the oil is a slow quench and a slow quench gives gives a softer core inside because the heat is drawn out slower and so this is not going to be glass hard at least I hope so okay let's quench it okay here is our power and as you can hear part I'm just cleaning these surfaces on you all stone but as you can see with a few strokes on your stone I got the whole surf face cleaned that means that it didn't work or at least not noticeable same here okay I'm pretty happy how this came out looks like a measuring plate for a 1 to 10 sighs milling machine but so far I'm very happy how this came out I tried it on the leaf and it's it's very nice to handle it's just compare it there's a piece of stamp sheet metal and this machine from a solid piece of carbon steel important if I don't lose it this might follow me the rest of my life at least my nationís life okay that's the engraving of my initials and the actual year 2015 uh uh yeah I used a three sided ground like a pyramid ground engraving bit to ask this piece is already hardened this I used to cut because they work and hardened materials very well leave a good crisp engraving okay Rove at the lathe and every little shred engage here and I want to show you how I'm gonna use it I have a fake piece of fake workpiece clamped up in the street shop and I have my six agree threading tool is a tool post clamp know if I want to get this in direct orientation to work piece side and take it I put the v-groove against my workpiece and it's automatically perfectly aligned because it's the Reed it's it's effectively a V block just attend held and now by holding it against the workpiece it can't slip off and you can adjust your friend to you want there we go that's that's a perfect fit no I would be good and ready for threading sometimes you want to align your tool against a fit the face of our workpiece that's why this looks like a small angle plate you can set the shorter surface against your face or against the Shah of your Chuck and do the same again just aligning the tool like you will do a fishtail gauge just without having to align it with the workpiece by eye or by hand also you can use these this front surface to align your tool and but all the works on internal modules let's change to this internal training tool little tool here and if I move over I can check with the face of the tool against my gauge the specter face and that's pretty much spot-on okay let's I will ask you is this a good idea this is an improvement over this old schoolish mr. gate fish tailed gauge or is it just the solution to a problem that doesn't exist tell me thank you for watching you

Channel: Stefan Gotteswinter

Views: 43,094

Rating: 4.974719 out of 5

Keywords: Threading gage, gewindelehre, fishtail gage, thread gage, optimum mb4, f45

Id: mGix_MTxh_8

Length: 34min 42sec (2082 seconds)

Published: Mon Aug 03 2015