Make a Center Gauge Attachment TIPS #423 tubalcain

hello once again it's to blow cane your YouTube shop teacher and I just shot an introductory shot here and I'm redoing it because I was too venomous in my attack against airport security so I won't go there other than to say that why are they all mean I can't say hire some nice people okay what I'm going to cover today is Center gauges sometimes called fishtails and actually the attachments made for them and I'll show you in a separate clip here in a minute the purpose of these if you have never seen one if you would like one you can no longer buy them I did the extensive research meaning I looked at three catalogs and I can't find them anymore so I don't think they make them anymore I'll show you how to make one but even if you think this is worthless and it probably is why bear with me because I am always I hope presenting new operations on the milling machine and lathes and so on that and that's what really this is all about not really about making this it's about learning how to use these tools so let me talk a little bit about centre gauges first I get a lot of comments from people that I didn't cover this or I didn't cover that and I probably did in many many videos and I am hesitant to repeat things but then again I always have brand new viewers but also much of this was covered in my individual courses on the Loganlea the South Bend and so on so some of those things are in greater detail than what I do here on free YouTube but the purpose of the fishtail of course is to aid you and grinding your 60 degree or 55 degree threading tool that I just held up to this so that's what these some of these notches are but they serve a dual purpose and this is sixty degrees on the end here all of the companies made these some of mine are stearic Brown and sharp I even have a mid tutorial here someplace maybe somebody can explain to me why this myth the toil was made in USA that's kind of surprising to me and here we have an owner's name of course who was dizzy taking his dirt nap so several different brands are including a rather rusty old what is this I think it's a general yeah it's a general I prefer the satin chrome of course this is a stearic Whitworth so I say there are sixty degrees this isn't this is 55 degrees but then again I have never cut a Whitworth thread that's for you boys over in England and there's a lot of wonderful model makers over there and I think they're still using that but let me talk now about the engage the attachment here and I'll cut real quickly now to the other video where I'm showing you how this is used although you probably know if you do know skip right on through it see you in a minute now I think all of you understand that these angles here are 60 degrees except for the 55 degree one back on the bench of course and the purpose of that is to help you grind your tool bit all of this is a preformed one but it I always found it inconvenient to hold the centre gauge like this as we square it out so the purpose of the attachment there's a little V groove here and it can be so easily held onto the work the round work as you manipulate and center your threading tool so that's the purpose and that's what I'm going to make here in this video and here's my disclaimer virtually no one is still using this type of single point tool or probably the kind that your grind you're using the carbide ones as I do myself actually but a rather than square it up with a fish tale in this manner archaic manner I just square up the whole tool post by it moving it like this and then bring it up against a chuck or a faceplate and you've watched me do this countless times and this is really the way it just to square them up without using a center gage but nevertheless I will forge on with my manufacturing of buggy whips this is the 1941 Brown & Sharpe catalog printed just prior to Pearl Harbor and there it is you can read that if you would care to it's 50 cents well that sounds pretty cheap but that was probably a half a day's or I should say probably an hour's worth of work 50 cents an hour a lot of people were still getting 50 cents an hour so that was expensive these are hardened and tempered mine will be made of soft steel here it is in the starett catalog from 1990 well even that's a few years ago isn't it almost 30 years and they don't show the prices because they changed the prices daily back then but just to give you an idea that the big companies did make these and you probably won't find them except on eBay now and often they got lost now I told my brother I was gonna make this video and he said you're wasting your time this was a product that never was really needed but I like them there's the brown and sharp beautifully color hardened notice how the blade is held in there by a little flat spring and it's really virtually identical to the stearic I don't think there's anything to for them to even patent on these and they're the starett and I've had this one forever you can see it's about the same on the end but I'm going to avoid using that spring simply because I think it would be difficult to make and that's a 90 degree groove and you too can make one of these you only need about $10,000 with an equipment as special cutting tools to do it presto and this is the one that I'm going to make again 90 degrees and we got a little slit about 50/50 thousands and I'm going to hold it in place with two for forty set screws probably the hardest part of the job and this slit again you know a good way to measure a slit like this is either with feeler gauges or the wonderful starett taper gauge and you can see from this that it's not quite 50 thousands I think you're Randy Richards for sending me yet another scribe or you know he makes these I think he sells them too so check out his videos if you would but I believe the brass one is the very first one he sent me some time ago and then a stainless steel one but I said you know Randy they just roll all over my bench and then they fall on the floor and that dulls them so I said we really need a hexagon one and I don't know if I was the inspiration or not but I just I just like the hex and so he made this one for me and that's I don't know how long ago that was but he does a great job of engraving he even puts serial numbers on them and my name and so on but I got this one in the mail the other day yesterday to be exact and they can be put in your pocket you know but don't try that airline securities that's why I was talking about airline security to start with you know and I had to cut that out because I became well you know I like the rant and some people don't like that they'll stand up for whatever I am against but we all have a right to our opinion there are does Randy Richards in the shop as a serial number which is the number one serial number dedicated to my channel real quickly here to show you how the spring holds the gauge in place you have to make sure you push it in all the way so it's square now this is 7/16 diameter it may not look like it but by the time it's been machined you know it loses some of its round shape of course I'm starting with 7/16 just mild steel I faced one end you want it to be square for the way I'm going to do this now watch the different operations that I do and the order of the operations really is pretty important even though I may not mention that as I go along and this is only I believe what do they say inch and a quarter long but I like to start with a longer piece so I got one of the 3/8 long they'll be no drawing 1 and 3/8 long if you have any interest jot down some of these dimensions as we go along alright let's go over to the Bridgeport work safely wear your safety glasses on the shop at all times now that what I've done already is to put the 716 stock on parallel so that it's sticking just up a little bit here doesn't matter too much notice I allowed a little bit to stick out so I got some place to put my edge finder so I'll find the edge of this and then therefore the middle so that's the two hundred thousandths and I like that one I'll speed up through this and so half of that's a hundred and the diameter of the stock is seven sixteenths the radius of that is seven thirty seconds or 0.2 19 so added together it's a total of 319 from the edge that I have to move once I find the edge with this steroid edge funder now I'm on the Senate floor and I'm looking at my digital readout even though you can't see it now I'll tell you why I wanted to be on the exact center this is a 3/8 endmill and since it's 7/16 stock now I can machine in here with impunity that is I will not hit the hardened jaws and ruin the cutter and possibly damage the jaws furthermore that already puts me on Center for when I use this KBC 90 degree cutter so I'll be doing two things in this operation one flattening it and the other is to put the V Grove in I want this dimension to be 350 thousandths or there abouts that dimension right across here so therefore I will come down touch off with the end mil and feed down 88 thousandths and I will mill up to the second line the first line that our magic marker line is a 1 of 3/8 and the other one is one and a half so I want to go a little bit more than 1 and 3/8 always with some waste stock so let's do that now I know I go into great detail on some of these operations and how to do them if this is too much for you move right on but some people like every detail and every little bit of instruction so that's why I do that as almost I want you to remember that you can never be too rich or have too many tools now I like to just touch off like this you can do it with a machine running or not I'm just have I have a feel for it when it comes down you can put a piece of tape in there but it's just not that critical so I'll come down touch it and I'm locking the quill you can't see that I'm backing off a little bit and with the Machine set at 1,100 rpm I probably could run it faster than that this is mild steel but I'm going to remember take off 88000 so I think I'll start by taking off seventy-five and they'll have a finishing cut so I'm zeroing out the need you can't see that and I'm raising it seventy-five thousands reading the dial on the knee crank and now the final few thousandths that take me to a full depth of eighty eight thousand this is a finishing pass I always feed a little slower on the finishing pass so I'll speed it up I have installed this KBC drill mill remember that's 90 degrees and it's carbide and I'm still on center I have not changed that and I'll come down and touch again now if you want to put a piece of paper in there you can but again it is not that important and with this sharp cutter attends to Terror say so I'll just bring it down until it barely touches I am locking the quill I back it off now that v-groove is going to be a hundred and twenty five thousands deep so I'll take two passes the first one will be one hundred thousand so that'll take a finishing pass of twenty five thousand so very sharp cutter it's carbide I could increase the speed but I'm too lazy I've raised the table the final 25 thousands and I will speed the video up now at this point the material Roger can be removed from the vise but do not remove it until you do both of those operations and if you had a notion you could make two of them at the same time it wouldn't be any more work I met the boy screen bandsaw and I will cut it off a little bit longer than 1 and 3/8 so I have some material left to face all right it's rough-sawn and i'm going to face it down to the line there which will be one in three eighths now it needs to be held in a 7/16 collet that you can't really hold that in a three jaw at this time but see it worked perfectly in a collet this being a RH just for demonstration that I'll be in a 3c here on the Atlas lathe alright it's rough sawn and I'm going to face it down to the line there which will be one in three eights now it needs to be held in a 7/16 Scylla that you can't really hold that in a three at this time but see it worked perfectly in a cowl at this being a RA just for demonstration that I'll be in a 3c here on the Atlas lathe and I will face it down to the line here on the Atlas lathe but of course if you don't have Kaulitz this could be a machine on the milling machine as well and square it off just needs to be squared off nice and you'll see why in a minute the next thing I'm going to do is to put the slot into this to hold the actual gauge now I measured a bunch of these as far as the thickness is concerned and it's just all over the place there's no consistency at all for instance that one's 38 thousands this one is 33,000 this brown and sharp here is 48,000 so I looked through my cutters and I have a brown and sharp cutter here but they just have a number on there it's a number 15 but it happens to be a little bit over 50,000 so that's perfect since I'm going to use set screws to hold the gauge in there anyway so this one just happens to be mounted on an r8 Arbor so that's the one I'm going to use and it is fairly sharp I used it once already so it's gonna do the job now this is kind of a tricky set up because this slot has to be exact depth well the depth doesn't really matter as long as I don't go all the way through but consistent measurement from one end to the other as far as I depth this concern or the center gaze is going to sit in there at a slight angle not like that but I mean if even if it's just a few thousandths off it would not really work properly so I will try to get an accurate dimension and I will be holding this in a relatively precarious position as you will see here momentarily now as I make this setup I need some kind of block that are perfectly square on the end and I checked all my parallels they aren't very square I suspect yours are the same so in the end I found those two inch Joel block actually it's a dual block and it is a perfectly square so that's what I'm going to use and you'll see how here presently so let's go on over to the Bridgeport again the cutter is mounted and I reduce the speed to 600 rpm that's about three inches in diameter and even that may be too fast but I'm not going to put it in the back years now as I said many other times there's just a lot of different ways to make a setup but this is the way I came up with and sometimes people say well why didn't you do it this way well because I didn't think of it you know there probably are better ways but what I'm essentially doing here is holding the workpiece like this on those two parallels and I'm squaring it up with this jewel block that I just talked about and the jewel block must be against the fixed jaw so I'm pushing that way and then also up against this surface because the surface that i milled here we know is parallel with the devii slab so I I will be pushing this up against like that not at an angle but it's got to be right on there and I'm only gripping just a little bit on the end because this slot is going to be 150000 steep that's pretty deep so I have very little to hang on to that's why I said it was precarious so you know what I'm doing here now as I have my index finger against the work pushing it against the jewel block and I'm also pushing toward the fix jaw and but yet I think I got it just where I want it and I'm tightening it down and then the Joe block can be removed so that's the setup the next thing I need to do is to set the slitting saw the cutter on the centerline of the work now the distance down once I touch off is half the thickness of the cutter this is a 50,000 cutter and the radius of the works in other words I'm adding together 25 thousandths and point to 19 for a total depth of 244 so I'll bring this down I do like to use paper for this type of touch off until it just drags just a little bit and then I will lock the quill now back the cutter out of the way so you don't break it and I'll raise the table one hundred two hundred and forty four thousand so now I'm on the center of the center of the work now and ready to cut I'm going to take some light cuts because of the precarious setup and the depth that I'm going to cut if I might have said that already will be a hundred and fifty thousand so I'll be touching off and then setting the digital readout to zero now goal by the Dro as far as the depth of the slot is concerned now I'll touch off and this isn't too critical I could hear it touch now I'm going to set the digital readout the first cut is 150000 product now were your glasses as you almost do because imagine what would happen if that slitting saw shatter and this is the third and final the Holy of 150 dollars and being careful not to slice the way I think I told you that we did the easy part now this is going to be the hard part too tiny for 40 holes and there counterbored so I'm going to do the counterbore first simply because if you try to drill on the round you know that the drill bit would deflect and certainly break with a small diameter so that's a 5/32 endmill in there pretty small in itself and I've already located a couple holes on there and I don't want to get too much in two dimensions here but the two holes are in fact 950,000 sipar center-to-center and the first hole here from the edge is 225,000 so I'm going to make those counter bores now and I've already touched off on the end so I know where that location is and looking up at my digital readout I'm moving it in the correct amount and I'll be on the center of the first hole now I still have to decide how deep to go and I'm not even sure yet until I get a little closer I can barely see it myself matter of fact there's a better view on them the monitor then there is with my bare eyes even with my optivisor so I often refer to the monitor to see it and at a large - view of what I'm doing so the same as the dentist does and he wears an optimizer - at least the one I got so and then as far as this direction that is away from me the operator I have some little layout lines on that and that's something if anyone does ever make something like this that they just can determine by themselves you can remember I made a prototype and no drawing at this point and there will be no drawing I'm ready to mill I am 303 thousandths from the end and then I zeroed out the Dro and I'm going to go in in this direction away from me up until that line got my little flashlight so I can see that and when I reach the line then I will also set the y axis on the Dro for zero so I can repeat myself on the second hole that's all there is to it I can't see much on the screen I know you can't do I have moved 950,000 stone to the next hole I'm watching the digital readout okay the collar boys are done and I'm ready to grow and talk now I've got a small Chuck installed in a little center drill and I'm still in the same location in the x-axis as I was for the last hundred more and as far as in the y-axis all I can tell you there was no dimension there I'm pretty well centered within the counterbore so I'm going to go ahead and just enough to get it started and then change bits here and this will be a number 43 bit and I'll drill through through one side that is to the through the slot into the slot actually I'm going to go a little farther than that I want to go a little bit into the other side and the reason for that is that when I tap this there's a little bit of room for the tip of the tap to go into the other side so that I don't have to use a bottoming tap I'm not sure I have a bottoming tap but I don't want to use one anyways because they're so likely to break did you notice that little black mark on the drill that was left from the prototype that's how deep I won I won't show the other one because it's just a matter of moving the table down and repeating the operation and I'm going to do the tapping at the bench back at the bench and with this 440 tap I use the very smallest tap wrench I own it sure looks like a cheap little thing but you do not want any more leverage than you need then absolutely necessary because as it is there's a 50/50 chance that I will break a tap off and have to send this to Pensacola to have a head and booth remove it does he do the little stuff always trying to tap straight looking in two directions I won't show all this so I'll save myself the embarrassment when it breaks success I did not break it I have to use my very smallest or one of my smallest needle files get the burner out of there there we go now notice that that 90 degree cutter leaves a little flat in the bottom which is just fine because that's true with the brown and sharp one as well all right now for some set screws that really didn't have many 440 set screws around I haven't break into this selection you know they're really tiny little things alright cut those these to make a lot of fasteners on Rockford and many other metalworking items in the city of Rockford Illinois s twing I know is still there for those of you who are gluttons for punishment you can stick with the spring system as did stir it and brown and sharp and really it wouldn't be bad other than how are you gonna fasten on the end and you would have to mill some little slots there and so on but here is a selection from Brownells that I've had since the dawn of time Springs flat and round so there's a piece that would be possible to use but if you're gonna use something like this you would have to make this slot a little bit wider to accommodate both the spring and the center gage so it's up to you but as aggravating as little screws are I think that that might be a little worse in fact if anyone ever builds one of these and every time I say no one in the world is gonna build one of these someone does and then they tell me so if anyone does make one of these put it in the comments also from this view remember when I told you that I was holding it and the milling machine vise pretty precariously because you know that slot there isn't too far from the bottom of the v-groove so I was literally holding it by this well I should say by about that much what is visible that's why it was precarious all right let me put this in Snug it up and when you when I snug it up I will have to make sure that I hold that tightly as I am doing now so that the setscrew doesn't displace a little bit you know how screws react with the work so let me do that this is the MIT tutorials that's it that's what she looks like I should put a little bluing on it gun bluing and remember I talked a little bit earlier about the depth of the slot that if it isn't just sold you're gonna end up with it going in there cockeyed but but the way it is here I got nine hundred and eight thousandths on that end and on this end also nine oh eight so let me move out a little bit there yeah now you know weight on both ends so it's spot on I was a little surprised myself so there she is a lot like the original ones yeah there's a Stewart Brown & Sharpe and the tube will canes make yourself one if you don't think it too foolish hope you enjoyed the video and the different operations that I perform not necessarily the project remember the project is only a vehicle just a vehicle to learn machine shop sometimes the projects are useful sometimes they're useless I hope that you find this one at least in between this is tubal-cain your youtube shop teacher saying so long for now and I hope to see you in my next video and there will be a lot of them yet this winter you

Channel: mrpete222

Views: 79,991

Rating: 4.9336324 out of 5

Keywords: south bend lathe, atlas lathe, bridgeport mill

Id: TvR-J-MVy04

Length: 33min 50sec (2030 seconds)

Published: Wed Feb 07 2018