Saw arbors Part 1 - Sägedorne Teil 1

hi welcome back and you might guess date a woman talk about slitting sauce and wheel cutters I think all of us are familiar with slitting sauce like this and with wheel cutters or staggered tooth cutters like this these auntie's are used to cut thin deep slots into work pieces cut off work pieces cut narrow grooves that would be very hard with an end mill and stuff like that discerning saws are generally very thin and only cut on they're out of perimeter you can only go down like this with them they don't cut on the sides and they are relieved to the center they are hollow ground to the center normally you can get them in different diameters like these one these are a bit bigger this is a 63 millimeter one smaller smaller these are 40 millimeters with 0.3 millimeter thickness down to this is 0.2 millimeter slitting saw and when you have to cut a point two millimeter slot this is your best your best shot for it I used point two new mid end mills and I can tell you it's no fun it they they break if you watch them at the right if you look at them on the wrong angle it just ping and break off so slitting cells are very useful you can get them in I speak steel all of these are high speed steel and you can get them in carbide and then they are expensive and pretty fragile they are not super expensive a new a new slitting saw cost about 10 to 30 bucks and they last quite a time and you can have them re-- shortened so you get a lot of life out of them I use the one millimeter thick ones a lot to cut slots for clamping mechanism and stuff like that and that's one of my general purpose slitting cells you can get them pretty thick this is three millimeter thick one with a smaller diameter and you can get tiny ones this one has about this one has ten millimeter diameter a four millimeter bore and is 0.5 millimeters thick this is used to cut a ring grooves in internal o-ring roofs and I use them actually for this purpose and they work great on the other hand you can get staggered tooth cutters like this and these are real milling cutters they have they don't only cut on their diameter they also cut on the face so they cut a very person they cut a slot that's very precise in thickness has very clean walls and you can actually machine sideways with them of course with a pretty low depth of cut but you can cut a shallow groove of a radii with these I have done this this works very well but you have to be careful as these are really expensive I am a new snaggle-toothed cutter these are all pretty small ones with 50 millimeter diameter and about two millimeters in thickness these are about 50 bucks and more new you can get them often and bulk but often you have to be careful often you get these kind these also are wheel cutters and they are not staggered every tooth cuts on the diameter and on both phases and these tend to chatter they work also these are USSR so Soviet Union tooling these are not bad but you have to be a bit careful with those I prefer the stagger tooth and you can yeah you can't buy these anymore new I don't think anybody sells the with the straight teeth anymore you and most of the tool catalogs I have seen their only D stagger tooth ones and the normal slitting sauce and then you can this is an improvised slitting saw this is a 80 millimeter saw blade from a miniature circular saw with braised on carbide tips and this works awesome in aluminum and plastics you can run it at about thousand rpms and feed it in you can you can bury this tool in material and it will cut freely it's it's cutting with pretty low forces and it works great but it's a bit scary when it's running at cells and rpm and you shove it into the aluminum but I want what I wanted really to talk about our the Arbus 4e slitting sauce and we'll cutters yes you can use slitting saw and just put it on to a normal combination or she'll me larva when you use enough distance rings on your arbor but the problem is when you have to work close to your wise you have this you have some of the Rings and maybe a big washer and a screw head sticking out from the saw blade and that you can't get close to the vise and most of the time your setup is is in a ways that you have to get close to rely so often this doesn't work if you get enough clearance this works perfectly fine what I did is I made these Arbus they are turned to their turn from high strength bolts big Baker and 22 threaded bolts and this material turned really nice and its high strength and doesn't produce just a nice finish the screw that holds the saw blade on this has two spanner holes and they even made a small spanner wrench or two pin wrench to loosen them and there's a sign of very simple Ami's just saw blade the screw has a big head a diameter a shoulder-width rotor diameters close fitting to your saw blade in this case this is a ten millimeter orbit and then there is a metric fine thread I chew I have chosen to do it with a fine thread because you find thread has a better feel to it when you tighten it down and the other side your orbit has of course a the diameter of the shoulder closely fitted board out and then these red behind it and you have you know if you look close you can see that I relief the inside of this face to to rim off about three millimeter width and I did this so the saw blade only gets clamped on the other diameter and this gives way better stability and holding power and makes for a truer running orb same year on the screw a bit hard to see on camera but inside here it's relieved and due to its design it can take saw blades from about four millimeters down to zero and it has 16 millimeter stretching and you just clamp it in a in a normal and I call it er 25 16 millimeter call it like in my more stable for college check like this any clamp it put it in your machine spin line you're ready to go runs very through runs and and you can extend it quite a bit out if you have to reach down on the side of a Weiss or something like that works great and I have one worth 10 there's a 16-millimeter one and you can see the big flange on this because with 16 millimeters you also get bigger saw blades and have a 10 millimeter one and I also made a 8 millimeter one where at the moment is pretty small saw blade is clamped in and these surf me wear well and I still use them but there is one drawback for me it's the 16 millimeter shank on here because I use most of the time more stable to kaulitz in my mill I always have to change to a more stable for collet Chuck more state but two cuts only go up to 12 millimeters so I have to change around all the time and get a bit boring and what I want to do is I want to make a set of new saw Orbis okay here are my sketches I one day these artists alarbus here just a bigger design for 13 and 16 millimeters with a more stable 2 shank because with the 16 million years I will also use the staggered tooth cutters and I don't want to clamp this in a call it anymore and down here is to design for the smallest saw blades with a 8 and 10 millimeter bore and this is just a straight arbor with 12 millimeter shank that I can clamp in a more stable two collet the shoulder bolt which goes into the bores diameter in this Arbor and with a metric six millimeters thread to hold it all together pretty simple piece only thing you have to is to be careful that you get your run out between the ARB and this this porch diameter so get this right and also the run out on this face this needs to be needs to be running true to the diameter or square to the standard or otherwise your saw blade would be wobbling and cut a wide a slot or it would run out the tiger tooth cutters done don't run out don't walk off your cut but since city slinging sauce are prone to walk off and cut on a curve and if you go far enough they will break and yeah not very dangerous because the mass of the fragments of these little slitting saw is pretty low but still annoying don't break these so let's get started cut off some material I'm using 42 chrome os6 which is a like a stress proof steel I think it's and it's worth sulfur so it's free cutting and free machining I actually never machined that stuff so does not get interesting for me okay now Robert lay and machine already the first of the Arbus at least half of the Arbor we start up by checking a piece of raw material industry church I could just machine down this diameter to 12 millimeters like this to give us to give us the diameter where we can hold on with the collet and the milling machine later the clamped up the second piece the material body way machines beautiful this is a nice very controllable chip this just runs off the front of the late and drops on the floor I would prefer it if it would be a bit shorter braking but it's that's quite Mashable as also this one move a bit more depth of cut came off pretty nice and yeah looks cool okay you saw me take a pre-finishing path so I can measure it and we aim for 12 millimeter - to hundreds 12.16 in front here and 12 point yeah 12 points 16 seven back there 12 points 16 3 in frontier so if you take off point 1 6 millimeters we leave some room for polishing and everything's good okay what we get here is twelve point zero one and twelve point oh one so we have about one hundred one or two hundreds of millimeter left on there for polishing to give it a nice shine you notice that I turned this one with the insert I finished it with tin third and this one is turned with the carbide to brace carbide to the one I turned with the insert tool looks shinier and that's because the carbide insert the geometry of the insert is not as freely cutting as a sharply honed tool no matter if it's high speed steel or carbide the insert is almost burnishing the surface and that's the reason why I get always this high-gloss finished surface when you turn with inserts and even if you get a super fine finish with high speed steel or braced carbide it always looks a bit dull dull okay let's put a nice radius on this corner cutting on a low rpm and your radio it gives just a nice appearance now we add the 45-degree transition to the bigoted or net diameter with a chamfering tool and we have to do this in a few steps because my life would jump off the table if I tried to cut a dutch such big chamfer in one cut okay okay that's a pretty good rate a pretty good chin for there and before we uncheck the piece there is one important thing to be done I have to turn a small portion of this bigger diameter true to this diameter down here so we can indicate when we flip it around okay this gives us a true running surface true to this to indicate when we flip it around let's go okay off camera I machine them to length 70 millimeters this one got a bit short for hundreds of a millimeter but that doesn't matter because it's just the overall length the diameter of the of the shank is very very precise of course the measurement if the calipers is almost worthless so let's do it again with proper tool like the minotaur dial mics Digital mics and here we have eleven point nine nine eleven point nine nine and here we have yeah this is this is 12 okay we have 12 the east fit are nice into the colors now we can machine now we can check it on this side machine the auto diameter drill it tab it and bore it to the final diameter okay back at the lathe and we will check the piece up and as usual I like to rotate the parts when I clamp them that so when you do this you get the feel if there is something between the chart and your workpiece like a burr or a small chip and if it feels subtle and firm you know that there is nothing that compromises your grip and you clamp it and of course this will run off like crazy because this is only three jaw Chuck but I showed this before and I will show it again you can bump a chuck true if you have some play on register a few of the spindle flange and I do this by loosening t-d nuts that hold the chuck slightly and I set up my dial indicator or I'll test indicator and get a reading yeah recheck the piece and we have about 200 so me to run out okay that's again showcase effect and note that I'm have to contact if up the DPI here on this machine surface that we machined in one set up with the shank and as you can see this is pretty darn good for us reach out but I think we can do better at leat the bits and I use a copper drift yeah that looks that looks pretty darn good now I tightened the nuts on the truck and we're good to go that's the next best thing if you don't have a colored Chuck or for a proper for chow chuck with individual setting Charles which I don't have still not yeah now we can do our machining on this side of the workpiece and we have very low run out this big ever outer diameter is a there's a non functional diameter so we just turn it down to you turn it down to 19 millimeters this is 20 millimeter stock material but I want to I don't like the stock surface so we take a cut down to 19 millimeters or two cuts and hip rear ace the birth back there take our small little file and remove it that fits better little gift is a rubdown with Emery paper when we're done just polish the non-functional surfaces again now we can drill tap it okay we went in 25 millimeters now we can open up the hole to 9 millimeters and then we will bore it to 10 millimeters to give it a nice good to make it run true and I don't care very much the divorce almost only one ship in the flutes of the drill bit for me it real bit as a roughing tool it a totally and absolutely nothing to nothing more they are good for bolt holes but if I need anything more precise I need at least a reamer or go back and single point bore it which is the most precise way to create a round true and on position hole not with a drill at least not with a normal twist drill there are carbide drills that that drill that almost produce a hole that's like board ok I just poured out this front down or up to ten millimeters using one of these solid carbide niche boring bars these are made by P horn I will link down in the description and these they look like this they have this weird shaped shank which you have to make a hold of for but there are solid carbide most of them are drills roof or coolant you can run coolant through them and yet they're easy to reach up this is actually internal grooving tool this is a boring bar or inside turning tool and there are also threading tools and a lot more shapes and types but they show up frequently on eBay used and they are super easy to reach out as they are solid carbide and you can shorten them that well that can take a 100 millimeter cut reliable in and steel so turning a closed fits with those as piece of cake and just to show you what I did or what I am going to write turned taken measurements this shows 10 and slightly over zero about ten point five millimeters diameter approximately and if I use a 10 millimeter doll pin which is slightly oversize yeah doll pin is about 107 millimeter oversized generally this almost fits it I could I could push it in but then I would struggle to get it out again and that's that's really the perfect fit for what I want because the screw the shoulder bolt I'm turning will have the diameter to hundreds of unlimited smaller than than ten millimeter so we get a nice slip fit and a nice fit on our slip slitting saw when we screw everything together so that's I'm very happy with that and now for the important part we have to relief the center of this face so we clamp only on the outer diameter okay I'm using these orbit tool and get just relief in the center and leave a rim or a ring surface around the bore with about a width of about two millimeters and I cut this recess to millimeters point two millimeters deep the the the exact that doesn't matter because it's a relief okay not much you see here we're just running the six millimeter tap and I got asked which taps I use I prefer these sparrow flew to machine taps for pretty much all all alts reading I do I used them by hand and the cordless drill and also in the machines of course on a machine because it's machine tap but they they pull the chips back they check them nicely you can go down onto the bottom of a bore pretty close and it's just a nice tap and you see the nice chips that have formed here and got it checked it by the tool no need for chip breaking with these taps you can just run them in and out and you're done what most people don't realize they have a maximum depth of threading for these it's two times the diameter so with a six millimeter tap you should not tap much deeper than 12 millimeters or it can bind and break and ya can ruin your day and I just watch the depth gauge on the tailstock to see when I bottomed out so there we go that's the that's the finish arbor without the without the screw we have the shank we have the board diameter 10 millimeter diameter and in there we have the six millimeter thread to hold everything together album drill and bore the second one off-camera and in the next episode we will talk about the shoulder bulb and the use of sledding sauce we might do some cuts with them and show and talk about speeds and feeds so thank you for watching see you next time

Channel: Stefan Gotteswinter

Views: 49,298

Rating: 4.9320216 out of 5

Keywords: phorn, boring bar, saw arbor, slitting saw, wheel cutter, sägedorn, scheibenfräser, kreissägeblatt

Id: bRQPv4AG2HQ

Length: 35min 10sec (2110 seconds)

Published: Thu Nov 05 2015