Shoptalk #7 / 9x20 lathe / 05-2015

hi welcome back to the shop this time I wanted to talk about my life I get really a lot of questions in the comments about this machine and I just wanted to address a few of them and also I want to show you what I did to this late how it started out and yeah just give you an overview of it first of all I have a picture where you can see the hi look before I did the refinish of this machine it started about as a 9 by 20 inch or 250 millimeter by 550 millimeter that's 250 of capacity on diameter and 550 between centers it came with a multi fix for the position to post that's where company and Germany but the size a I got on the machine is almost too big a bit too big for this machine so I changed later over to this Swiss made trip on to post over the machine was usable out of the box I set it up I set up the headstock so it's turn was turning cylindrical and I used it for about 4 years without major problems but then I decided to go full full ahead and do a complete rebuild of this machine and that's what we have here Irie scrape all the guide weighs in the top slide cross slide and in the best light or yeah I scraped one side and the other side is scolded with a with an epoxy a slight way epoxy called mooglies made by diamond I will link that product down in the description of the video also the headstock is sitting on a special steel filled epoxy between the headstock and machines bed and that's that's what used for alignment so let's get a bit closer and take a look at the machine okay first of all I wanted to take a look at the carriage the cross slide and the top slide these 9 by 20 lathe all have a problem with the top slide mount the orginal top slide mount which I have a picture here those mounts are crap they lack stiffness in every way so I decided to build this way more robust support plate which holds the top slide and I will remove it so you can see how it works as you can see there are two bolts one in front and one in the back by loosening these you enable it to rotate of course because the bolts don't rotate with the top slide there is a limited range of motion and to go beyond 30 degrees you have to take the bolts out taped it farther and there is a a bolt pattern down there and you can just go into the next pair of holes and so I can get angles I can rotate this thing to run 60 degrees and also clamp it okay let's take these bolts out and pull out the okay this is a pretty tight fit okay got a doubt this is the top slide it has this it has this disc here screwed to the base to the lower top slide guide way and we'll take this over to a bench and take a closer look okay I made a new bearing block here out of aluminum and urgently the spin lofty top slide only ran in plain bearings or in fact there was just a hole in a piece of steel and that was the bearing I put two deep roof radial ball bearings into this aluminum housing and now it operates very very nice by turning the egg this just this one is way nicer and also by giving me here some relief I got about 15 millimeters more travel out of this top slide also you see that there are five adjustment screws for the hip and originally there were three and because the is pretty thin I decided to go for five and even more support and that result is a bit more rigidity if we look here in the front you see that I made a new Gib virginal gift was almost only half the thickness of this one and I made one that fits with about five hundredths of a millimeter play between the top slide self and lower guide piece and now if we crank this a bit to the front you can see this thing now has quite a lot of travel and here you can see the black guideway epoxy and there are pockets milled into the entry guide way and them this epoxy is cast in and in fact I cast it on the surface plate of my granite surface plate we'll move on wax with a mold release to form an absolute flat surface on these two sliding surfaces and I just scraped in very light I flake the surface with the hand scraper to give me oil clearance or clearance for the oil these surfaces are coated and the mating surfaces down here are scraped and that's the proper way to do it with mooglies you can scrape or grind the mating surfaces on the dovetail you can see that this surface is coated and the mating surface in here is again scraped also this surface is scraped and mating surface on the hip is again coated and I think I have pictures of this process and I will show you them now okay here we have the top slide with the milled out pockets and in the next picture you see that I fill the pockets with the mooglies epoxy and dropped it on my grind surface plate and also I've waited it down with some pieces of steel to let it sit flat surface play and after you release it from the surface plate you need it needs a good hit with a dead blow hammer from the side to release it from the from surface plate you see the surfaces from the meta or cast of the surface plate and they're very precise and this whole process with the casting and surfacing off the with with a slight way epoxy like the diamond please that's out of the world of big machines the real big machines vertical milling machines and horizontal boring machines and stuff like that they almost all of them have have somewhat of a of a coating on their slide ways may it may be turke ID which comes as a sheet material that is glued on or the skc slide way epoxy or the diamond epoxy which are cast in or injected into machine pockets okay next thing is this mounting plate this is the mounting plate for the top slide and it's already dirty but that's the reason why we take that stuff apart from time to time and it's held down with four bolts on the T slots of the press slide and as you can see I attempt to to brown or to blacken these pieces with an chemical blackening compound and it came out pretty ugly the top surface is also scraped but you can see it were bad because of the browning and I made extra-long t-slot nuts because these T's loss and across slide are a bit wimpy and I have seen lace like this early tea slots were penned up during a crash with an parting tool Matisse the this material appear was bent up and I wanted didn't want to take any chances of bending my tea salt on the lathe I'm not going to pull off the top slide cross slide and it's almost the same like the top slide I got a row of way more adjusting screws than the original one I have I made a way thicker Gipp and also the sliding surfaces are coated also this the cross slide surface is scraped flat so it's in line with the spindle axis and the front this face is also scraped because I can use it for aligning when I use them Lafe for boring or milling operations what I do pretty often I usually lot for boring or line boring especially and again for the bed slide also I mailed out the slide ways of the of the bed slides Milda not aligned everything and cast them off the machines bed with the diamond and epoxy with the mogees not for the headstock the headstock had a problem or I think all Chinese life has those problems the pair they have two bearing seats one in front one in back there are tapered roller bearings in them and they don't line up they they just can't machine two bearing seats that line up it seems and I decided to machine out the machined out the front and the rear bearing seat on the CNC machine I cut a big hole in there I have a picture there and then I machined on the from France leaf a cartridge cartridge spindle it's just a piece of steel round steel piece bearing seat and front bearing seat in the back and that and I glued that piece into my headstock with Loctite with the Loctite six four eight bushing retaining glue and that both with the big glue sour-faced i got there this is never going to move again okay this is the drivetrain on the back side normally there is a back gear a with a toothed belt up here and then you can change over this this wheat belt to the back gear and run it at very low speeds I got rid of the back here because I upgraded the motor to 0.75 kilowatts and run it on a VFD and this enables me to get down to 50 rpm and still have pretty much torque this is I have a wek tour vector drive VFP in there and that gives me a lot of torque on the lower rpms and because there's just a motor the idler wheel and the spindle with the pulley and the life is not very it's not very loud it's run it's running pretty smooth and also down here there is the banjo from the change change gears for threading and I have that disengaged almost all the time so I don't have all these gears rattling around in there all the time only when I need it for threading ok we're back here on the electrical cabinet and there was not much in it there is a home run Amex - verbal frequency drive I liked it very much that's that's a nice unit to set up and I got the software and the cable with it to set the parameters with the notebook that's very nice other from that there is a main switch back here that parses the Machine up and up here is a fan to provide cooling for the VFD there is Chester relay aboard with two relays on and that's for the momentary buttons on to control the VFD and also I have a a 12 volt power supply down here if I ever have to run a pump or a machine light or anything like that on 12 volts and apart from that there is not much electrical stuff on this machine just drive and some stuff around it to make it go there we have the chart with the spindle rpm this is back here which I got rid I made the sign before I decided to get rid of the the back here so this doesn't count I have direct drive and lower range 0 mm or PM medium range is 0 to site 1500 rpm and the highest setting is 0 to 3000 rpm most of the time I have set at zero to none to 9:30 that gives me a full range of speeds I need for most of my operations up here I have the controls I have forward stop which acts also as an emergency stop it's just a momentary button it's not it does not stay in position and there is reverse and up here we have potentiometer for the spindle speed and that's the lowest and as you can see it has quite a lot of torque it's really hard to stop this end on this big diameter I have with my hands a lot of torque but do we Ft the vector drive pushes in current into the motor just to keep it going it feels the load and then it pushes on that's it's real it's strong enough for my needs and it goes up and to a full stop the clicker annoys you hear is the crappy belt I have on there I don't have a dr on this machine and I don't eat at your or on the leaf i like a dr on the milling machine but a lathe I'm fine with that dial indicators and this is what I use most of the time to set up right on the right side of the bed slide I have my 50 millimeters or two inch dial indicator that has seen better days but it's still accurate and I have a mount that I can lock in place with this lever it has this this mount is chest it has a wheat on top here and the clamping plate down here and it holds the key I'll test dial indicator and you can move it up to your 2d bed slide lock it set your number and then by moving the bed slide you can read your your numbers or your travel there is this notch this this big round cutout this is because normally and this holder I made to be on the left side of the bed slide and the dial of the indicator would go right in there it would sit in there like that but I discovered that the dial indicator directly under the Chuck is a pretty bad idea it's in a way all the time hot chicks land on the lens there I ruined one that indicator that way and also oil on the on the plunger is not very good for Rundle indicator so I started to use it the other way I mount it that way and I'm far enough away from you Chuck so my dial indicator doesn't get any crap on it and I like the setup maybe I will May but of course with this cutout I lose about 20 millimeter of travel off the indicator I will need to gather long a tip so I can reach in wider and get my 50 full 50 millimeters of travel off this indicator apart from that I'm very happy with that setup and it works very fine and it's easy to push out of the way ok and now maybe for the most radical modification on this lathe the Tate stock I wanted to have a capstan wheel with a rack and pinion action for drilling like this like an ax drill press 15 with the rack and pinion on the quill and I wanted to have them left - and this is what I came up with I took the original quill and I bought a piece of round rack I turned them down glute and pinned them together so they are one piece and I made this bearing block bearing block which holds the shaft with the wreck with the pinion and runs into ball bearings and that setup gives me about not only is it much more stable because the quill which is that long that long here is always fully supported it also gives me Y way more travel and I have about 105 minutes of travel on this leg with with this set up I think that I'm to stop back here yeah I got a bit more I got 120 millimeters of travel also I changed the clamping mechanism down here I was sick of the wrench down here and I don't I didn't want to build something with a quick action lever and the cam action because your bad is pretty rough on the other side and you I need quite a lot of travel to clamp this taste stuck in ever position what I did is I took a piece of left-hand Acme screw with a pitch a four millimeter four millimeter of travel per revolution and I machine I made the clamping screw for detail stock out of this Acme screw and I took a fitting left hand acne knot and maydel ever out of it and with a quarter of a turn I can go from fully locked absolute safely locked to completely lose because of a porter turn I got about one millimeter throttle and that's more than plenty back here I have the ejector to remove the tool out of the Morse taper because normally your crank detail stuck back and the spindle of me of the quill pushes out the Morse taper tool but this taste that doesn't have a spindle anymore so I made this ejector and this is in fact just a pull it out a long screw that pushes on the end of the Morse taper tool it has a twelve by one millimeter fine thread back here and a handle also I machined a hacks head on it if I ever got a tool stuck it in and I really need to grab it with a wrench to get more torque that's how I remove my tools out of the quill just like this just with a quarter turn off this knob back here back it off clean the Morse taper - and there you go I saw this clamping mechanism on a horse TL to TL to lathe of a friend and it's a pretty it's a it's a very nice design this works very well it doesn't distort position of the quill when her locking it original clamping was just a there was a draw bolt in there and that pinched the quill sideways and that it's all way you get precision is issues with that it pushed the quill sideways and I didn't like that so I came up with that that's a clamping collar I made it from ten millimeter cold world steel its board to to a close fit on the quill and it's lit back here i slitted it with slitting saw and milling machine and then I bolted it on the front of the tail stock and it's only bolted on in front here and the urea of this arrangement is free-floating so with this locking bolt up here I can pinch together this this collar and lock it absolutely safe in position and this quill is not going anywhere it's it's absolutely secured in radio position also in axial position this is in my mind one of the better solutions to clamp a quill that's also what deck does on their milling machines they have a collar and this pulls together around the quill and Derek will also stays in position when you clamp them so there might be something to it and again you can see I just got a lot of travel with that setup and it's pretty Richard and also this this call or acts as an additional support for the quill because it's very close fitting and also I can set this just a bit of a little tight so it's dragging and when you're drilling a grabbing material like breath where it tends to pull in your drill you can tighten this just a bit so it it's dragging and then it doesn't pull your drill into the material so that's the tailstock okay I also welded up this chip pan which also is a chip pan is integrated in the machines base let me bring around camera and I'll show you what I mean burn the tailstock side of my lead there is the tailstock there is the machines bed and down here this is the outer rim of the chip pan and down here you can see the center support of my life and a lot of mess back there but for now we will concentrate on the stand of this lake i weld it together two big sections off of you channel and i welded on two rectangular steel tubing on each side so I got a pretty stable and stiff base this goes along the whole length of delay as you can see and there are outriggers crappin way and there are outriggers with adjusting feet on the end and that's how I level on this table but this table is not very good for our life I am going to build a new one pretty soon and go hop go over you can see there is the this is the center support from the base and this is the feet of the foot of the machine machine space and there is a ten millimeter steel plate welded onto the support and that's where the leaf stand ah stands on and over over here on the headstock side we have the same I have the ten bone with a steel plate welded on to the center beam and that's where your leaf stands on here you can see the rough weldment of the chip pan with the center support and here we have it in a primed finish and after painting and here I'm setting up the lathe the machines bed on to thee onto the support pad okay that's I think that's all I had to tell about this machine and I hope I could clarify some questions about this machine out there thank you for watching see you next time you

Channel: Stefan Gotteswinter

Views: 54,768

Rating: 4.9914165 out of 5

Keywords:

Id: n1ytS1lhVFg

Length: 34min 7sec (2047 seconds)

Published: Wed May 27 2015