Rebuilding a drillpress spindle

[Music] hey welcome back today we have a quill of a flot tb15 drill press on the bench the fairly small drill press but rather nicely made too this is the quill along with the spindle with the spline drive in the back and these these small drill presses don't have a morse taper they have an external taper on the spindle which is a b taper b tapers are basically the same size as a morse taper this being a b16 is the short end of a morse taper ii so this is a b16 drill chuck this fits on here but it would also fit on the back side of a more steeper two so that's the taper here and this was sent to me to have a look at it first of all checking the run out here here check if the shaft is bent check the bearings and [Music] do what's necessary to get it back in a good condition so let's get this on the measuring table and and confront it with an indicator so i have a a mitutoyo high cater which reads one micron per increment and my height gauge and the quill sits in a magnetic v block this is just for convenience so it's easier to work with it okay this is the run out on the extreme end of the b16 taper this starts at about minus 40 and goes up to plus 40. that's micron so we have a total indicated runout of 80 micron that's a little bit much and there is a strange divot here i can't show it but i can tell you that the bearings in this unit feel a little bit crunchy too so we have to do something about that we we're going to exchange the bearings before we do anything else to the spindle okay we have rather bad run out here almost 0.1 millimeters let's go further in i like the height gauge for for the precision indicators because it has a nice fine adjust okay let's start at minus 40 again okay minus 40 almost 10 hard to tell because the surface on this taper is a little bit buggered up so we have i have definitely run out in the whole taper here and this if you add a drill chuck on here and a drill you would have a horrendous run out at the end let's check the spline shaft to see if the whole spindle is somehow bent so let's go in this area where we don't have the splines cut okay that's way better that's uh that's better than five micron it's pretty decent considering the bearings in this quill not being in a very good condition let's drop it down here we are in the spline section so we have to be a little bit careful not to bump the indicator like crazy but these high cater or if sold by mar marcatore are surprisingly robust precision indicators okay we have about 10 micron here let's go to the extreme end of the shaft just for fun but it doesn't seem like the shaft itself is bent 0 20 25 25 10 0. okay 25 micron on the end of a spline shaft on a spindle with shot bearings uh which is only a drill press spindle uh i'm not concerned here this this looks good to me the splines in in the the spline hub have some some give too and it's okay there should be absolutely no issue but this end of the of the shaft this is definitely an issue this has to be addressed once we have have to spindle out and change the bearings we'll set this up on the surface grinder and regrind the taper to a very high degree of precision so next we have to check what bearings we have in here oh uh damage assessment what i think happened is uh either a work piece catched with a drill or the the drill chuck got bumped during transport or something like that and the end of the shaft at the end of the the b taper here has been slightly bent out of shape not much i checked around here too very close to the bearing and it's uh not measurable so it's also in the knee five micron range just like on the other end of of the shaft here so i as far as i can tell only this end here is spent the thread on here is for a jack nut you have just the when you have the drill chuck on here you would have a nut here that will allow you to push the the chuck off the the spindle end if you want to change chucks which is nice because otherwise you you would have to use two wedges to split wedges this is way more elegant but in the process of regrinding the taper we will lose a little bit of this thread here let's see how we it seems like the spindle is a fairly basic setup with two radial bearings which also can take axial forces there is a misconception about radial bearing standard skateboard bearings they can they take primarily radial loads but they can take or they will take about one third of the radial loading in axial direction and like in this case you can preload them against each other this is a nut we have a safety screw here and this preloads the two bearings against each other most spindles of the small mini lefty seven by ten seven by twelve or the mini mills not the horse ones the smaller the sikh ones are built with a very similar spindle arrangement by the way the spindle of my emco lathe is basically the same setup two bearings preloaded against each other with well not on the end a very basic spindle design well proven it works so let's get the spindle apart here okay we have a slotted clamping screw which is not very tight in here and also this uh this nut is not very tight on here this comes off and now we need to get the spindle out this will probably end up with some knocking onto the end so a spindle came out rather easy not a crazy tight fit in there okay here the the front bearing this is part of the spindle shaft this is a cover which protects the front bearing against dirt and the bearing we have in here is a 6 202 with shields on both sides metal shields and the other bearing this is the this is the second bearing this is a loose sliding fit in the quill housing this is a 6002 made by skf in france very nice but also very crunchy holding it up to my microphone shouldn't sound like that okay the rear bearing slid right off the shaft but the other one was a pretty tight press fit on here i moved it back i made a ring that fits over here but was a little bit smaller than the bearing od this ring has 34.6 millimeters the bearing had like 34. 35 millimeters and i was able to push the bearing back in this area and instead of hammering it uh over the second bearing seat or pressing it over the second bearing seat i decided to cut it in half um with cutoff wheel that's the the most non-intrusive way of removing a bearing hammering or pressing on a shaft it's always a little bit dangerous because you always can bend it cutting into a cut-off wheel has of course other dangers like cutting into the shaft but if you're careful leave about 0.1 or 0.2 millimeters and then just use a pair of pliers and you can crack it it breaks it breaks apart especially on the inner ring that's a good technique you can see the break here and here so now we clean the shaft and what i didn't know i didn't notice this piece here is not part of the of the shaft itself it's it's a sliding collar on here so i could have also used this to press off the bearing or hammer it off i didn't notice this where i didn't notice it when the shaft was still in one piece but now it is off it's lost its bearings i ordered the replacement bearings skf made in italy this is the 6202 and this is 6002 also made in italy as indicated by the laser engraving on the bearing to see that's a non-contacting metal seal so these don't get hot the rubber or plastic sealed bearings those are contacting seals and those create friction and heat these also create a little bit of heat because the grease moves inside moves between the the shield and the race the ring and that creates also some heat first we need to clean it all from the abrasive dust that we created when we cut the bearing in half so this this piece here slides right off all the way uh we do not forget to put this back on before we press the new bearings over on that would be rather tragic and hardly very annoying one more thing we're going to do is we're going to wire brush the thread here because it has some burrs and we'll clean the whole shaft either with steel wool or fine scotch-brite i tend to go for stainless steel wool here some 4-0 steel wool cut a nice little piece off don't tear it yeah that's my abrasive scissors these have to take a lot of beating so uh [Music] a little uh a little little thing about steel wool of course it has a fiber structure that goes this direction and when you use the steel wool in this orientation the fibers don't do anything you want to go 90 degrees to to the fibers because the fibers have a very sharp edged structure to them and it works only in this direction and this is a super super mild way to clean pieces or parts you can go this direction too and spin it this also has a good cleaning effect or spin it in a leaf if you desire this is really just for cleaning this doesn't remove any material hardly any material i wouldn't even bother to measure the shaft after this that looks already way better we will hit this uh this relief area in between here with some medium grit scotch brite because there is some staining and rust on it that we don't want to put back in the quill when we assemble it yeah putting in the lathe would be a recall but uh feeling a little bit lazy today this is a rather hard steel brush clean the spline drive with with this this is a cratex stick so just when it's put back together there are no burrs or anything that might give problems i think we're going to put it on the lathe anyway and give it and run the bearing seats with some precision ground flat stones i don't trust these this one has a small dinkley dink in some here here is a small tinkly dink with something hit it not me burrow on the lathe we're using some i supposed to clean alcohol to decrease the bearing seats before we use the precision ground flat still when you use these on a round piece they will take away material you have to be super careful but the results are usually excellent let's check our diameters here just for just out of pure interest so this is nominal slightly plus four microns and plus one micron slightly tapered two and this one i guess is a little bit undersized yes it's four micron undersized because the bearing was a sliding fit on here and while we have the part spinning we can also use the cratex to clean up the thread here the cratex wolf will wear itself into shape of the thread and chase the thread careful this can be reasonably dangerous but i expect my viewers to be able to assess dangers by themselves i hope i don't need to tell each time i'm doing something dangerous uh that it is dangerous i will point out non-obvious dangers definitely this is just a drill press spindle not a mill spindle we don't need to go go full on we'll just do good practices here's the bearing when you put a bearing on mount it in a way so can you can read the laser engraving in mounted condition the laser engraving usually is only on one side and we'll have this ring here and we will have the bearing put up against it and if you put it on like this you cannot read the engraving because on this side we have this ring put it on so you can read the engraving just a little very practical tip i have a lab hop plate here these are super useful in the shop i use them to cure glue for shrink fits uh for annealing and tempering small parts ever it even holds the coffee warm so super useful goes up to 350 degrees c fresh piece of aluminium foil a clean bearing so i put this on at about 120 degrees c so 100 degrees c is what most bearing manufacturers recommend as a maxim when you do a shrink fit with bearing okay bearing is hot uh i had it soak for about seven or eight minutes at a little bit of 100 degrees c and i have the spindle and wise vertical i have to pass two bearing seats first the thread bearing seat and then i want the bearing to go on here i have gloves on i have two gloves on because i don't want to burn my fingers and my heavy welding gloves or my tic tic gloves are just too thick to to get a good feel so wearing two pairs of nitrile gloves getting bearing on over the first fit and then on the second fit i have a pipe ready and a simplex hammer okay here we go first seat second one and there we go that's that's perfect that's always a little bit um exciting it's really it's it's um you can get stuck here if you are out of square and then you usually are in trouble the right thing would be to get to try to get the bearing off as quickly as possible next we will take something out of robin renzetti's book of of spindle building we will put some rust preventive on this clearance surface here just so it doesn't rust and before we continue we'll also clean the quills has seen let's have seen some some things in his life next we have the quill which i cleaned and i put some uh some lps3 rust preventive on the inside on on the clearance surface here and also here on the clearance of the shaft so we don't get any rust issues uh the this should go on as a sliding fit i guess or not okay we'll put this on the hot plate so it goes over it nicely there is basically no other way now to mount the quill other than heat because if we hammer the quill on we definitely put load on the balls inside the bearing because the other race is not supported by anything other than the balls but that's what a heat shrink or thermal expansion is useful for okay the quill heated up nicely now it should go on without a problem there we go of course we have a little bit of weeble wobble up here because it's a non-preloaded bearing down here single bearing and those have play that's counteracted by adding a second bearing on top here um i'm going to heat the rear bearing a little bit and also the housing a little bit so the bearing is definitely a loose uh easy to go into the housing and also sliding fit on the spindle okay we are heating the quill housing with a butane torch could also use a hot air gun and in a second you will see me use a temperature stick it's a crayon that changes the color at a certain temperature this is a hundred degrees c stick it's a fabrica thermo chrome and this gives me a good indication when the quill is at at a certain temperature and 100 degrees c is something i deemed a reasonable temperature okay heated the quill housing the bearing is hot and here we go yikes um hot but it's on it's it's oh it's perfect it can happen that you burn yourself doing this but bearing went on without any any beating hitting or something like that and yes this quill has seen some use but in overall it's still in good shape it has some ding marks some some scratching but it's an old machine it's a used machine and now with the new bearings and once we have re-ground the taper it will be in excellent condition we have to make sure that we don't mess up the bearings during grinding with grinding dust so we're going to put on a little bit of a cover on here i got the quill on a magnetic v block and i have my indicator stand with two micron indicator touching the end of the shaft and i put a tiny tiny bit of preload on the nut here just with a spanner wrench a pin spanner and i'm basically just checking the end play double checking if my indicator is touching make sure it's seated and i'm pushing on the end of the shaft on both sides and there is basically no end play no measurable end play with this indicator so i deem that good enough and yes the indicator is really touching the part so there is no measurable end play get the indicator stand off and out of the way and go for the run out if there was ant play i would very carefully adjust the nut and back here until i could not measure end play anymore then add a tiny fraction this is a spindle without a spacer on the inner rings so the preload is only defined by how much you tighten this knot for a drill press spindle that's in my mind perfectly fine that's quite a convoluted setup here i have this is the quill with the spindle held in a tool makers wise and grinding wise there are a bunch of one two three blocks on the back here on the magnetic check to space the vice off the back rail parallel and also i added two c clamps to pull the vice against the blocks because the vice is hanging over the magnetic chuck and i don't want to be in danger of losing magnetic grip and have the the wise drop down together with the quill then i have a fixture plate with a 20 40 60 block that's shot made block with renzetti inspired hole pattern and i have a hacked apart cordless drill bolted on here this is a 3d printed flange that's glued to the end of the front end of the cordless screwdriver and i have a pulley with a quarter inch hex shank 6.35 millimeter hex shank and a o-ring a rubber belt that drives the quill over here and i have a pulley that's held with a screw on the spline just tightened down by hand and when i run the cordless drill tada slinkle grinding or in this case tapered grinding yeah that's the setup um i need to clean up the electronics of this thing i have a momentary switch this is this is the original one from the cordless drill but i also bypassed it with a uh with a toggle of a toggle switch so i can run it continues i'm setting the taper angle by tilting the quill in the vice and i'm just tracing the taper here with a two micron indicator to get a to get it together close i will i'll talk about that in a second because there is a trick to get it very close even with a bent taper here so yeah that's the setup and i will go i'm going to put a [Music] 80 grit aluminum oxide wheel on the spindle dress it and we're good to go so you can see that we have a high spot in the low spot that's the extremes of the bend would i use this to indicate the taper no i would go right in between of those two extremes uh 60 let's let's zero this out we have a finite chest here so we can zero it out so we have 0 and 80. let's go right in between that that means that the bend is now laying on its side that means if i indicate now on this taper along its length i will get a pretty good i'm going to match the taper pretty good not perfectly because as the taper is bent i'm still dropping off along the curve along the bend and also you want to indicate on top dead center otherwise you're asking for trouble too okay that's with the bend sideways and now we can traverse back and forth and see how we are so we start at 40 here crank out we have a little bit of a ditch and we go back almost to 40. there's a little bit of a weird effect in there but it could be the damaged taper but basically it's almost zero zero zero ends to end that would will be very good for to begin with now we can tighten the vice down mildly uh we don't want to x-shape the quill i have a wheel dresser back here on this fixture plate and a vacuum attachment here we have a nice wheel dress 5 micron last depth pass on the wheel and fairly quick traverse back and forth wheel feels nice and smooth but it should cut nice and freely i added this tin foil in front here i will move the camera in a second i added the tin foil so the gap between the large washer and the quill housing is covered by the aluminium foil another thing i need to position the wheel in this direction quite well under the grinding wheel on center line with a steel with a steel scale between the wheel and the round part you can get a pretty good idea on on when you're at center okay that's pretty good i'm putting some felt marker on the taper this helps me to identify the progress in grinding and also it gives me a rough idea how the taper the damaged taper is shaped after i took a first pass with the grinding wheel it would be better to plunge down with the grinding wheel and then traverse out because this way i'm wearing the leading edge of the grinding wheel and i cannot get all the way into the shoulder but in the end i had to redress the wheel and this wasn't the problem anymore okay here you can see very nicely where the tape already cleaned up and where we still have to go shouldn't be too much which what we have to take off as you can see it almost cleaned up so far it's still cold to the touch not much heat input we took very light passes the surface finish will need some more sparking out i'm just traversing to clean it up right now but now i need to move the table over and check with with a drill chuck if my taper fit in some cases it's necessary on these flat tb spindles to shorten the thread back here because the taper goes back too far after regrinding the thread is for the the nut that pushes the chuck off the spindle okay this feels very promising i need to blew the taper and check it again but this feels very good and we almost have enough thread left enough taper left it's a hard call if i'm going to grind this little bit of of galling out or not but i'm very much inclined to leave it like that i decided to grind the taper until it cleaned up i didn't want to deliver a spindle with that have been reground with damage in the taper so i'm cleaning off the taper and that also meant that i had to shorten the thread behind the taper pulling the taper back a little bit more to give the chuck room but in the end that was not a big deal i just moved over the grinding wheel and plunged down until i hit the taper and then i blended it all together this heavy material removal also meant that i had to redress the grinding wheel definitely before i did my final spark out this is my final pass on the taper i redressed the wheel and now i'm just traversing back and forth until sparks basically disappear let's take some dead smurf and check this first for fit die cam high spot blue i like high spot the dicam high spot blue for tapers because it prints excellent and remember what i said earlier the b16 tape over grinding here is basically the short end of a morse taper too so here's an old morse super two taper wiper we take that put a good amount of the daikon high spot blue on here then we take a good good chuck with the matching taper and we put use the the taper wiper to blue the inside to blew the inside of the chuck then we go go here i cleaned this with alcohol this goes on here i press it on and i turn it only a tiny bit side to side like this maybe five degrees side to side and i will go back and forth and this gives me a realistic print as you can see we have full band of contact here and probably on this side too so you turn this like like 5 10 15 degrees side to side and then you take the chuck off then you get a pretty realistic impression of the of the fit the heavy bands down here this is where where the taper ends and that's where a lot of the high spot high spot blue that's a tough word collected this is this dark band and we have up here a band that's blank that's not touched by the taper that's the inside of the chuck where the taper ends or the taper is not ground any further into the chuck and it continues cylindrical and in between this is where the taper hits that's not terrible that's uh i'm i'm not going to touch this anymore this is good this is really good uh let's get this on the bench check the run out i checked it already here on the machine and it's really good but let's go to the bench and check it there now is a good time not to drop the spindle okay we're back at the bench or better the surface plate put the quilt back in a magnetic v block after one micron indicator here and let's check to run out that's like one micron let's say it's one micron just just to make people happy that there is an error maybe two micron on a good day here out on the other end of the taper same result pretty darn good this is probably better than factory on this drill press spindle i i i love the stuff things like this are way too much fun so there's a person who has a very old flot tb15 drill pair it's a very good machine it's a small good quality made in germany drill press but somebody buggered up the taper of the spindle and made the machine virtually useless except for maybe woodworking but the tb15 is way more than that and now with a little bit of work on the surface grinder i got this spindle back into spec and probably better than original spec and also we changed the bearings it's it's turning super smooth without any side play i'm very very this this is something i can uh ship without being um worried so only things left to do is to needle file uh the end of the thread here where i plunged on with the grinding wheel that's the only thing but apart from that it's done clean it oil it put some rust preventive on it and ship it so i hope you enjoyed this rebuild of a flopped tv 15 drill press spindle and quill quill is basically a spindle housing that can move in c direction i hope you enjoyed thank you all for watching and i hope you learned something see you next time

Channel: Stefan Gotteswinter

Views: 60,352

Rating: 4.9833632 out of 5

Keywords: drill press, bohrmaschine, spindel, schleifen, spindel schleifen, taper, taper grinding, lip515, lagertausch, spindle rebuild

Id: 0VwP1n3h6C4

Length: 41min 44sec (2504 seconds)

Published: Sun Apr 18 2021