IFSC World Cup Briançon 2020 || Lead finals

[Music] [Applause] [Music] good evening and welcome to brienne sun your eyes do not deceive you we have an ifsc world cup for the first time in 10 months and how good it feels to be back especially here in this beautiful town just on the edge of the eckeron national park charlie bosco here as i did last night i've got irish climbing coach dan and marky alongside me and we cannot wait for the action to begin dannon we should say though that this is a world cup in name but it doesn't quite feel it in nature we live in a different world to the one we inhabited this time last year yep you can instantly see that there is a different selection of athletes attending this world cup i do want to say though that i don't think it's a the level is still pretty up there we're not looking at a depleted level we've got some strong climbers here today yeah no no less than uh two legends we could say in uh yanny camera and jesse peltz on the women's side both of whom are better to have to say by laura agora in both the well matched yan you're in the qualifying round and then beta in the semi-final so laura agora perhaps the favorite to win this competition ahead of the two world champions we've got in the women's field and then over on the men's side we've got people like dom and scoffage uh alex magos jacob schubert adamandra so although we are missing some of the climbers that we normally see at world cups it's still an immensely strong field and as we understand it the routes that have been set are pretty much what they would have been set regardless of who entered the competition that is the current scene in brian sun the sun has gone off the wall thankfully an hour ago it was incredibly hot here but things have cooled down a bit and i suspect as with last night we'd expect conditions to improve as the minutes tick by and then speaking of last night let's have a quick recap of last night's semi-final [Music] after a 10-month hiatus for obvious reasons we finally had an ifsc world cup and it took place in the beautiful french mountain town of [Music] brianson in the men's semi-final france's youngsters really shone none more so than meghdy schleck who took fifth place ahead of the finals having almost made his way onto the head wall of the semi-final route [Music] slovenia's dominant scoffish is a previous brienne son winner and he looked very much a contender in this year's semi-finals making his way onto the head wall and falling with less than 10 moves left on the route his performance netted him fourth in the semis and suggested that he would be a serious contender for a medal in the final [Music] fresh from climbing the world's second 9c sport climb on the nearby cliff of ceus even alex magos himself wasn't sure how his current rock climbing fitness would translate to competition form pretty well would appear to be the answer he climbed excellently in the brianzan qualifiers and backed that up by taking third in the semi-final [Music] jacob schubert never appears to be off form he won three of the four events in the recent austria climbing summer series and if anything looked even stronger here in briansson than he did in his home events he couldn't quite find the top of the semi-final route but he was only a few moves away and ended up second i'm really happy with my climbing today not just the fitness but also almost no mistakes so i hope i can climb just as well tomorrow matching jakob moved for move but finishing ahead of him on countback to the qualifying round was adamandra the czech superstar has even by his standards trained exceptionally hard since coronavirus came to dominate the news headlines and that hard work paid off so there was a tow hook which i thought was an obvious beta apparently i was the only one to use the tow hook which is something that i'm quite proud of yet i was accused that while tow hooking the box my soul of the shoe was touching the ball hanger so we'll we're making appeal and let's see how it happens i will be in the finals anyway which is good but would be definitely better to have a better score for the finals in case of ties he looked the best climate in qualifying and backed that up by finishing first in the semi-final the women's field was strong in brian's on two despite the lack of asian or north american climbers team slovenia had a particularly good day in the french alps with four women qualifying for the final including tiasha kalan who took 5th place falling on the 26 plus move which stopped no less than 7 women [Music] matching chassis score but moving ahead on countback to the qualifying round was vita lucan who was making her comeback from a severe knee injury that layoff and the intense training which followed seemed to have done her no harm in many neutrals we're delighted to see her finish the semi-final in fourth after such an injury ravaged the last 12 months just ahead of vita was her compatriot yanya ganbret who is accustomed to winning every round she competes in but had to settle for third in the brianson semi-final it felt so good to be back like to be in that competition mode to have the public behind you and it was weird because you're kind of not used to it anymore but it was so cool to have the support from the crowd i read the route wrong i would say um but otherwise it was such a cool route and i think the difficulty should be like that all the time [Music] in second was nina arto of france who latched one more hole than yanya vita chassa and therefore put herself in prime position for a shot at the brianson win she looked composed all the way up the route and although she couldn't get onto the headwall it was an excellent evening's work for the young french [Music] climber [Music] 2019 boulder and lead youth world champion laura regora looked immense in the qualifying round and pushed even further comes semi-final time getting six moves further than anyone else to claim a dominant first place laura has never won a world cup and will never have a better shot at claiming that maiden win than the brian sun final [Music] yes it was an excellent semi-final last night as we see the crowd here in brianna great to see so many people out watching climbing i should say covered 19 measures are in place so social distancing being applied as much as possible obligatory to wear a mask as well and we do actually have a police presence here making sure that the measures are being followed it's great to have a world cup back but we want to do it safely this is how things ended up last night in the semi-final laura igora no doubt she was a standout climber six moves clear of anyone else and then we had a big tie there it is a big tie of that 26 plus move and as a result we've actually got nine women through to these this evening's finals excuse me uh instead of the regulation eight including no less than four slovenians but yeah it was an excellent semi-final route setters did a fabulous job of finding the level despite not having seen the climbers for an awfully long time and set a hard route we both chatted to yanya gamba afterwards and she said she'd had a great time on the wall it was what she's been waiting for in world cups a fight she wants to earn it and i think she'll earn it tonight on this evening route as well that's how they ended up lowered down the order a couple of people might have been a little bit disappointed including uh the two french climbers julius channel d and salome roman salome of course from brie anderson but missed out on the final over on the men's side jakob schubert and adam andra looked one notch and perhaps above alex magos fresh from climbing his 9c sport climb in seas but he might have something to say about them winning tonight he did win here and beyonce two years ago remember dom and scoffic also a winner here in brian's on joins him in the final and then it's the two french climbers meghdy slack now monster and then luca patoka and matthias posh the two youngsters one from slovenia one from austria and uh you can see there lower down the order a lot of climbers stuck in between uh holds 23 and 20 including you see then joint 24th loic timmermans he was appearing in his final world cup the fairy tale would have been for him to make the final but sadly he couldn't manage it but did climb in the semi-final to sign off an excellent world cup career outcome the climb is now being introduced to the brian son crowd giorgio tessio is first out and we'll suddenly walk out on the stage and see just how many people are here we've got a limit of 5 000 spectators but that's still an awful lot of people to climb in front of expect a big welcome now for the following climber fanny g bear the only uh excuse me the one the first of two uh french climbers in this evening's final got a little bit ahead of myself there putting her mask on yeah we've got nina our toes still to come over on the men's side they've also got two french climbers her first appearance in a world cup final look at the crowd how's that for pressure four slovenians in the women's final and now we await the first of two lead world champions who are climbing tonight jesse biltz 2018 lead world cup uh world champion two times a world cup winner can she make it three here in briansson some of her regular rivals are missing but not many second of the slovenians big opportunity for her tonight as i've said we don't have any japanese climbers no americans so a few of the people that might often take a slot in the finals aren't here this evening and it hands a big opportunity to climbers including vita lucan devastating injury snapped her anterior cruciate ligament in her knee shortly after winning her youth world championship in moscow and she returns to the highest level of competition here in brian som venuemc got his work cut out now listing all the achievements of the woman he's about to introduce to the stage she is used to the big occasion and usually delivers it's yanya gombrep we talk about climbers such as jesse being a legend for winning a world championship yanya won three in a week last august she is usually the woman to beat but remember in 2019 south korea's champs got the better of it can someone manage that this evening nina otto next on to the stage you can see the climbers obviously wearing masks as per the protocols and they'll have to keep them on throughout the six-minute observation period she was head and shoulders above everyone else in the semi-final route she matched yanya move for move in the qualifying route no doubt she's like the strongest climber so far this weekend here in brian's on but this is a different matter altogether can she back it up in the final we are about to find out the women climbing the route on the right the yellow volumes and the blue holes and the six minute observation begins and the army of volunteers who we had a bit of a giggle about last night whose job it is to stop the climbers falling off the stage make their way on goodness look how many of them are i know swarmed in i like the little one there he's doing a great job oh that's a treat it's a dream come true isn't it getting to stand on the stage in front of all those people he'll be uh he'll be king of his class in school on monday morning if you are just tuning in it's charlie bosco here with irish climbing coach dan and marky alongside me and that is the scene here in brianson couldn't get much more picturesque uh in keeping with tradition when we come to brian there was actually a bit of rain forecast for this evening but it never came looked a bit black this morning at about 10 o'clock but since then the clouds have disappeared and it is a blue sky and it could not be any more stunning you can see the sun's still kissing the peaks behind but it's been off the wall for just over 40 minutes now and it's got noticeably colder since the sun did leave the wall so the black volumes on the left which amanda will be climbing i suspect have retained a bit of warmth but by the time the men got on them they should have cooled down and the women's route yellow and blue holds i'd imagine conditions would be pretty good and uh may not be able to see it from this shot but someone's got a laser pen pointing out holds meanwhile we're watching giorgio tessio interestingly enough uh having a quick look at the route on her own without laura rigor and now they seem to be sharing a bit of information what's yannya thinking it was actually interesting going through this route with the root center earlier on i was quite surprised there's a few points in the route which may not seem obvious at first look it does appear that there will be a few cut looses according to the route setter feet will be flying which would be very exciting he's even promised a 360. hold on i'm not sure he promised i'm as keen as anyone to drop him in it but he did i i i just wanted to you took it as a promise i want it to be true this is what's going on but maybe it'll happen maybe yeah the theory goes there is a 360 midway through the women's route and it should be pretty easy to spot where it should be it's i believe the only green hold on the entire route is where the 360 should take place we're gonna have a look at the lower section uh when we were reading this earlier and talking to remy summer who's one of our root setters um we don't think there's too much complication down in this lower section uh no it should be relatively straightforward the root setters were actually very intentional in designing this route if you see that green hole there that's actually where the 360 might end so keep an eye out there but yesterday we had a lot of climbers falling off a bit lower down on the route and the route setters really want to see these finalists fighting right at the end i'm very excited to see what happens it should look should be possible to get quite far in this route uh but it should be a big fight and there's a little surprise right at the very end the camera's coming up to it now i'm not sure if we'll see it quite yet but there is a section where i looked at it for the longest time couldn't figure it out here we are this mass of blue holds by the draw now the beta for this is quite interesting you do reach through to that big first mass with the left hand and then possibly swing the feet around and cross under into an undercut to reach up something that's very very exciting i can't wait to see if anyone figures it out and if they can push through and if they have the energy to do it at that late late stage i was going to say surely when you absolutely box the last thing you're thinking about is i really fancy getting an undercling but if that is the easiest way to do it and someone has the presence of mind and the physical fitness to pull it off it would be great to see yeah i'm wondering if they'll have the presence of mind the biggest thing about league climbing is when you're so tired you just can't think straight anymore you see a hold and you just want to grab it you forget where your feet are you just start pulling and even the best you see them just starting to pull right at the end so it'll be exciting to see if anyone manages to figure this part out [Music] again giorgio tessio just doing her own thing down at the front of the stage here and laura not chatting too much most of the climbers actually are down on the lower level as cheshire comes for another look six minutes of course for observation and then remind us remember the climbers will have a 40 seconds of individual observation time when they first come out and often it can be little moments like that where you see the difference between people who are experienced and not at this level 40 seconds uh you've got 5 000 people look at the back of your head it can feel like an awfully long time oh goodness yeah people who've been there before might just be able to use that time a little more wisely that's the scene here in uh brian sun as you say as you can see big crowd 5 000 maximum pretty hard to have complete social distancing but as i say masks compulsory throughout and the police have been pretty strict about it i have to say as they should be we don't know if we're going to have another uh world cup this season or where and when if we did so we've just got to enjoy this one and make sure it goes off without a hitch and show how it can be done i think speaking to the athletes yesterday some of them are so grateful to have this opportunity on so many different levels many of them really use these competitions to find their motivation for training especially during lockdown when you didn't know when the next competition was going to be it was quite demoralizing for a lot of the high level athletes and you want you need a focus point you need something to motivate you to put in the work every single day so i think a lot of the climbers today are very grateful for this competition yeah i mean we spoke to adam andre last night um after all was said and done and uh he said he never felt more motivated for a competition his life i mean uh and and interestingly enough he then you speak of adam andre you can see he'll be the last climber out um in the final and speaking of motivating he then went to train in innsbruck and jakob schubert was so impressed by how strong adam was that it got him psyched to train for the competition as well so adam's psych is strong enough that he can share it out with jacob schubert but yeah a lot of climbers just absolutely delighted to be back on the wall and yes we'd love to have some of our friends from north america and asia when you've got a lineup like that to watch you must have grumbled too much men of course we'll be out after the conclusion of the women's final and that's how the women will line up it is nine women into the final not the regulation eight thanks to a tie around that 26 plus move in the semi-final yesterday and it was a superb semi-final both roots hard spitting people off relatively low down we didn't see a top on either side but no doubt that that woman who'll be out last laura agora was a standout climber yesterday and on current form from what we've seen in the past couple of days in brienne's son she is the woman to beat lara really did an amazing job yesterday getting through those powerful moves and then still having the energy to push on into the upper section no one else no one else could even do the powerful moves never mind the push at the end something really quite amazing to see and speaking of uh the moves got a quick interview with our chief root setter here in brian sun who so far has done an excellent job both roots for men and women are pretty endurance roots and yeah actually there is not many places where you can stop to rest so you have to you have to to keep on going uh yeah it starts uh the the really it starts from the beginning of the big overhang because the the first part is quite uh quite easy for them and then the upper part will select the the best the best climbers excuse me as you can see really beginning to fall in brown so it's actually a little bit lighter than it looks uh on that shot it's a little more like it costs a wall illuminated and it looks all the more dramatic as the minutes tick by and darkness begins to descend by the time we're done with i'm just looking at what sort of time we're expecting the women's final to conclude around half past eight and maybe a little bit later it'll be pretty close to full darkness and by the first time the first of the men's finalists comes out it will be very very dark indeed big difference actually i've noticed from when we normally come to brian's on in the third week of july about five weeks earlier in the year it's noticeably darker earlier makes it all the more dramatic the wall really does look fantastic when it's silhouetted against the night sky the outline of the mountains visible behind really quite intimidating almost not sure if i'd want to be one of the athletes oh god give my right arm to be one of the athletes probably wouldn't get far up the route having given it up but oh you never know maybe you just pulled something out george attessio just being made to wait again for someone like her appearing in her first final it's uh difficult to suddenly be told to wait you can hear the crowd you can hear the music getting louder and you have to just stand there and block all that out first climber onto the wall can't help but be a little bit nervous but must be incredibly excited as well here she comes barely acknowledges the crowd a little the briefest of nods wants to get on with the observation in fact he's got no interest in any further observation she wants to get on with the climb just get it out of the way get it done with she has a job to do and she looks like she knows how to do it so let's see her have a go 48 moves on this women's route if you haven't watched league climbing before of course it is just a competition quite simply of who can get the highest on the route who can get to the highest handhold and you can see as giorgio tessio climbs her progress being shown on the bar there remember these are not official scores they are uh judged scores and they are open to appeal last night you might remember if you watched our semi-final when we weren't affair we didn't actually have all the confirmed scores because there were so many appeals adam andrew was initially marked down albeit his score would have been good enough to get him into the final but he appealed against his score being marked down and it was corrected georgia now onto these quite distinctive blue volumes she's looking steady but okay not as nervous as we might have expected but very excited for her to show her best on this wall [Music] into the first jug now it's blocked out let's see how she manages to get through this section is the promise 360 going to occur you just find an excuse for the root sister to buy you a beer afterwards this is how i work i don't remember promising you promised you promised so definitely it's your round yeah definitely happened here she goes i just can't quite decide how to go about it is it the match going to happen it doesn't look like the most comfortable match looked like as soon as she did match it she wanted to get away from it with the left hand now she has to match again which is really nasty both of those holes are facing the upper opposite direction that she wants them to well she's got through it without doing the 360 but both of the matches look really really hard and imagine some of the climbers will go for that 360 if it makes life a little bit easier it makes life easier but you have to be exceptionally confident to just rest on a locked off arm and a lot of the time you can't actually see the hole that you're going to so well now let's see this first dynamic section still gearing up not quite sure what she wants to do yet [Music] got loose she actually turned to face our country box as she did that move and she looked a little more comfortable than i thought she might obviously not too bad a hole right there yeah she's having a rest now [Music] shakes out now we'll begin to head out right and then she's got a long journey up the edge of that triangular yellow volume pretty terrible little crimps right here actually especially when you're on this angle of the wall the wall overhanging by 45 degrees and giorgio tessio also had the problem of how to get that next clip quick draw clipped sadly she was not able to hang on long enough to clip it but a good start giorgio tessio looking back up wondering what might have been unfortunately i think you were exactly right there about the quick draw she already headed quite far out in that left hand and a crimp that's not so good the next move it's lined up to jump to that right hand blue and when you're ready for a jump it's very hard to think about how you're going to clip a draw in that moment as well so maybe she could have found a way to clip it lower down maybe she may have would could have made the jump and then clipped the drop but it looked like almost in between either thought which you'd never want to hesitate in a league climb can have some dire consequences fanny g bear will be the next climber out first of the four french climbers are going to see in action tonight expect her to get a good reception very popular climate we get the moving graphics back they're always a bit of fun that was [Music] great look at that fanny bear clearly enjoying the introduction she's getting from the mc enjoying the crowd have you noticed they put a barrier up so no one can skip the fancy doorway now oh really yeah if you watched yesterday's semi-final it was a bit of a recurring theme that the climbers were refusing to go through the very fancy doorway that's been designed to make their their entrance onto the stage as dramatic as possible it was getting ignored by most climbers so yeah it's a good spot the organizers have basically blocked off any other way of getting onto the stage fanny g bear underway excited to see finish very well known for being a highly technical climber very excited to see how she makes of these upper moves where there's so many holes that can provide a lot of options what's she going to go with hopefully it'll be something quite quickly and she'll go with her natural flow which is always fantastic to see just wondered if she might be in a little bit of trouble uh there fanny g bear didn't look that comfortable on the first of the blue holes perhaps it was just me she looks okay now she's got a rest so she can try to figure herself out oh it happened it happened this 360 has happened fantastic [Music] as well i don't know if you picked that up at home but the crowd suddenly started cheering did you see how she just went straight into it there was no moment of hesitation she knew what she wanted to do absolute perfect flow through there really amazing to see see that giorgio tessio setting a high point of 30 plus now setting up for the more dynamic move again no hesitation very psyched here excellent the fees are all over the place but they're doing amazing jobs remember she's got a clip the quick draw coming up and having seen georgiotecio uh struggling to clip it or continue choosing to continue past it and he might be well advised to clip it early on oh lala oh no came a little bit unstuck as she unraveled from that backhand position and the rope was actually wrapped around her head i think can she regain her composure that looked like a little bit of a heart in the mouth moment for fanny g fanny was not looking happy after that now then i was about to say when will she clip because that's a quick draw that although it's quite a long way away from that position i think you want to get it done sooner rather than later so she's now up at georgia tesla's high point and surpassing it fanny g bear up to hole 32 remember 48 in total on this women's route taking this tiny crimp but still managing to pull through [Music] fannie should bear seeing if she can lean into the corner hopefully start to get the weight off of her hands standing those feet that she's so good at using that hole doesn't look too bad but clearly not good enough for a meaningful rest because family chooses to come on left arm definitely getting pumped there such intensity as she pulls through here oh the left arm crowd are going absolutely crazy here in brian's on and funny g bear gave that route absolutely everything she had had a good look at the head wall somewhere around hole 40. that was a really strong performance from her did well to calm down after that slightly uh slightly spicy moment she forgot which way was up but she managed to correct herself which is not actually a very easy thing to do and you saw she already knew towards the top that she wasn't going to recover you see her climbing past this straw trying to just get any hole that she can knowing that it's too late to clip the draw and make it to the top [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Music] let's see at tarkush first of four in this final there are three in a row a bit later on first world cup final for here [Music] no doubt been in isolation having a little bit of a chat with her compatriots about what they made of the route during observation could probably have found a slightly more comfortable position to make that clip those little mistakes maybe not mistakes but inefficiencies can add up throughout the route so hopefully she gets her flow back the flow that was so perfectly displayed by fanny may be too perfectly displayed getting ready for the first clutter of holes clutter falls great work oh a foot slip already possibly not the most ideal hopefully she can really stabilize herself nicely with an exceptional amount of endurance a nice little heel toe cam there he'll tell camps of the best unless you're a physiotherapist then it's the worst the most scary move you can do but let's see now how she sets up for the 360. please do a 360. oh yes the feet are up excellent there we are [Music] looking very comfortable in that right arm casually moving through here resting on this left hand which is actually you can see an exceptionally bad hold and then there's a little screw on added onto that hold and i doubt the screw on is much better but she still uses it to [Music] clip now let's see set up for the dynamic move just need to get a figure out which side of the rope to put a foot oh it's such an awkward move oh that was amazing you saw that left hand push something that very few climbers would expect to do but shows a really natural awareness of your body position and what's going on with your center of gravity i really should get psyched she doesn't look convinced by this move at all i think trying to figure out exactly how to do it [Music] oh that's a powerful right hand lock she's gonna leave her much energy another difficult part is that it's so hard to see the hole that you're jumping to here you need a lot of commitment so powerful she just cannot figure out how to get set for the move and that is not the way she wants the first final to finish just stalled out never really committed to a method and she will be disappointed with that yeah she looked a little bit shaky almost right from the start but if it is one of your first finals then these sort of things can almost be expected it's very difficult to feel comfortable and just get into it and do the moves as you would do as if you were a meter off the ground [Music] so disappointment for her but tick the box got in a world cup final not bad good experience if nothing else but as i say not the way she would perhaps have wanted it to end jesse peltz will be next out certainly not her first time at this level um trust me it is jessie peltz coming out now here she is [Music] there we are we cut her face we got it the second time [Music] it was interesting we were working together on the austria climbing summer series and jesse i have to say look the second best climber at those lead events behind christine schramm's but then when we got to world cup level there's no doubt that jesse the stronger climber here in brian's son is it the big stage that she thrives on because not her day in austria or uh could be the big stage i think a big part of it will be the variety of setting and movement and jesse just has that experience on so many different styles of world cup [Music] setting already looking very comfortable through these [Music] very moves so far jesse another foot slip though maybe that's a tricky always a little sign of how strong your core is when your feet pop off doesn't need that heel toe cam though looking very comfortable just on the toe how would you deal with this potential 360. certainly looks easier as a 360. but it's easy to say it from here it's another thing to risk your final on uh on pulling it off she's definitely having to think about it i believe she knows that the next hole she's going to is a jug as well oh but she's going for it now the feet are up finds it and the heel hook all the way above her head on such a small hold and see now as she creeps through the next section jesse climbing reasonably quickly [Music] already a whole 23. so one move away there it is from being halfway and only two minutes elapsed that was the move oh that stopped lucia that was impressive she did that without a good left foot she must have been really confident there i think that probably could have been a little bit easier but when it's within your range then maybe you just go for it better not to think about it too much [Music] three volume section and then we'll begin to head out right could do is getting the clip done earlier rather than later it's one of those awkward clips where you do one more move one more move one more move to try and find a comfortable clipping position then suddenly it's a bit too far away jesse clips from not a great hold on the left hand but it was a very efficient clip sticking the jump look at her right hand she's looking quite strong here even fanny was starting to flag a little bit by this hold now let's see if she can manage the almost rock up into the more technical section yeah you can see where fanny giber got to earlier on not too far off the top i have to say this route suddenly looks pretty toppable when uh fanny who we do see more traditionally in boulder competitions had such a good go at it i think fannie seemed very happy with her attempt as well [Music] jesse's now taking full advantage of that time she gained earlier might take you a big rest of course the angle is as steep as it gets on this wall right where she's resting but if it's a good hold he can get a bit back in the arms now she'll go again let's see how she finds this not the intended beta from the root setters but she's strong enough just to pull through anyway excellent work there saw that back really heaving in she tried to get her way into the wall but now the weight is on the feet now if she can manage her technique well she'll be looking pretty good for the next section 145 left for jesse that is ages for what she needs to do now she launches into the top section two quick draws left and then the top one beckons 42 from fanny g bear the current high point and there's only 48 holes on the route jesse definitely got a bit of a fight on her hands now the elbows are out jesse of course qualified for the olympics training for the combined how is her lead shape that is a big move up and she cannot quite execute it of course as our our scores are provisional they're not the official scores but they're showing a one below fanny g bear as it stands we'll see how the judges saw it it's a lot more important than how our score sees it jessie did such a fantastic job during that raid and she actually looked like she had a bit more in her maybe just the tiniest bit you could see that fanny was fighting from such an earlier stage with jesse was able to stop almost tried to rest on that hole but it wasn't quite enough by the way i found out the culprit you might have just seen the laser pen it's francois legron the french climbing legend who is uh doing the live emceeing along with uh christopher our usual mc so it's francois legrand who's got that laser pen that's been flicking on the root a couple of times he doesn't do it when the climbers are on thankfully points yeah he's pointing things out to the crowd that's uh how they stand yeah fanny g bear 42 to jesse peltz's 41 plus giorgio tessa 30 plus and then lucia tarkus sadly for her 24 plus never quite decided how to go for that dynamic move up to hole 25 didn't quite commit to a method she sits four five climbers still to come that tie yesterday in the semi-final means we've got nine women in the final just a regulation eight in the men's which will follow this and that is the scene in brianna's son and you can see why people enjoy coming here so much absolutely wonderful town especially on a warm summer's evening with some of the world's best climbers on the wall bit of a breeze even starting to pick up now which will really help out especially on that upper section you see those holes are so thin it's going to be very very friction dependent yeah conditions definitely getting better one or two people reaching for their jackets uh which as i say was hard to believe two hours ago and it was about 36 degrees but the temperature really drops quickly we're at about 1300 meters above sea level so when it's sunny it can be very very hot but as soon as the sun dips behind the mountains the temperature really does begin to plummet and that is happening now yeah we just have to hope this breeze maintains because as the temperature drops if it's very still sometimes it's even worse i mentioned last night that as the temperature drops the humidity can shoot up and it can be quite difficult to stick to holds this experience is commonly known as fish hour you learn something every day wow we're getting great shots out of this drone god i'm getting our money's worth out of that as you can see as you can see normally the crowd in brownson i'm told numbers 8 000 but for covert 19 restriction reasons we're down to 5 000 this evening that's why there's a bit of space at the back which there normally isn't because obviously those 8 000 people normally fit into this same space we've currently got 5 000 so the crowd a little more dispersed there's a little more space um yeah it's still a very good crowd you do have to appreciate the the clapping system they go for to separate each other joshua callum now the second slovenian out second of four [Music] yeah last night they did the clap i had two friends text me one said it's called the ultra clap and one said it's called a viking clap okay if you're not aware of what it is you have to stand up and hold your arms as far away from you as you can and then you do a cool clap there's some we will rock you style music to enthuse you but the idea is that no one else is touching you so you have a circumference around you that separates from you from all the other people also looks cool yeah the added bonus and the crowd gets a little bit psyched looking fast and comfortable let's see if it takes her through these more committing moves oh not sticky just looks ever so slightly hesitant about these first couple of moves she pulled in that hold and thought thought about it a few times maybe it is fish hour cheshire still looking as i say have a slightly hesitant one minute gone three quick draws clipped and just about to launch into these blue volumes relatively slow through this section [Music] but hopefully she's going to find some pace soon maybe into another section that might be a little bit more her style [Music] just quickly actually uh one of the organizers of this event just said we now have the capacity five thousand people in the venue so if you're in the brianson region i'm afraid there is no more room at the inn and you will have to continue watching the live stream unfortunately if you wanted to come down for the men's final there's no more space we have five thousand the doors are shut [Music] and what a view they've got fabulous wall and nine of the world's best female climbers battling it out we've waited a long time for this it's good to be back still a bit slow and unsteady lots of time now maybe she will find her pace let's see what she makes of this section if you are a bit unsure about things it's very hard to decide to throw your feet above your head but she's going for it anyway [Music] bit unbalanced in the other foot finds finds the jug though so that'll do for now get her through yeah and went for the 360. it's not a kind of traditional 360 where the climbers are hanging with their feet below them and kind of facing the crowd it's a bit of a strange one with your feet up high like that hmm [Music] taking the time to rest on this jug and clip that draws having a good wiggle though it's going to be quite hard to catch it at arm's length actually going for the clip i'm quite low down and gets the timing pretty good actually caught it on the swing but you can see the difference in in speed uh jesse was here with about two minutes left just cheshire excuse me here with two and a half minutes to [Music] how can go find the motivation for the jump [Music] compatriot earlier on lucita got to all tied up in all sorts of ways getting set for that move chester goes straight through it yeah a very powerful method there to hang on that left hand once you release the right hand you have to pinch so much harder on the left hand to hold your body weight i do believe it is a bit easier to just jump straight through to the hole but she's got through now and now it's time for the endurance section of the [Music] route again gets an awkward clip done always awkward when a quick draw is hanging in your lap or against your hip [Music] really picky up the pace now with the minute and 30 left she's definitely got time for more progress but what she hasn't got time for is a a meaningful rest on this next section where you can get stood up in that corner above us you'll have to just keep pushing on with 120 left just having a look actually at the clock seeing where she's at time wise she knows now that there's still a decent apart part of the route left and she's going to have to go with a bit of pace probably not going to rest as long as she wants to very hard to push on when you're not fully rested though see what she makes of these definitely definitely beginning to scrap now kind of slap that right foot out and as i say there's something close to a rest around here but with 44 seconds left cheshire will not have enough time to take advantage of it again slaps the left foot out still going strong though this is quite a big move out now with the left hand tries to go with the right and can't quite make it stick happy enough with that apparently that was some fantastic display of flexibility up there you saw that her feet didn't actually cut loose for many of those moves whereas the other athletes were almost campusing through really quite useful if you can use that and manage your body weight to stay into the wall just struggling to get herself untied there we go yeah good effort and as as you rightly say amazing use of her flexibility just look in here she's kind of stuck on that right foot it's so far away from her she doesn't want to take the weight off it because she knows her arms are tired and that she can't probably can't take the weight off the feet and pull with the arms so that it was that right foot really you saw her trying to claw over to the next hole but she needs to bring the feet across [Music] first here is vital feel good story of the evening so good to have vita back as so picked up that youth world championship win in moscow in 2018 almost two years ago to the day if memory serves me right and uh just just when she seems to be taking off she suffers a i believe it was a complete tear of the acl the interior cruciate ligament uh which dan and you've experienced and it's yeah it's chris yes that's great a lot of fun there uh interestingly though um she did not have to harvest one of the muscles around her leg to repair the ligament she was able to just sew together the two ends of the ligament and keep the muscles in her leg which is usually pretty nice you have to be very lucky for that though you need a completely clean tear to be able to sew it back together it's a funny version of lucky but i know what you mean a funny version of lucky but now she doesn't have to worry about building up a new hamstring or quadricep from nothing she has all those muscles and that can help stabilize her leg and keep her strong she looked pretty close to as strong as i've ever seen a vetolution been climbing really well so far in the south of france i uh have high hopes for a big performance here so far she's looking very comfortable on this route which has been the theme for climbers who get higher up if you're looking more comfortable you go through these moves without worrying or thinking about them too much and you get further got a decision to make here about the 360. i think she's going to go for it yep she knows what she's doing it looks like team slovenia probably had a good talk about this beta beforehand no one's hesitating here it's unfortunate that the italian team were not in that conversation well we haven't seen laura igor yet but i agree yeah giorgio tessier when she came out um really those matches looked really difficult i'm sure lara will figure it out though [Music] setting up for the dyno [Music] wow powerful but comfortable again we're just in the room we're just uh unfortunately in really good spot whereas climbers jump for that you get a good look at their face vita looked almost uninterested she found that move so easy so uh cruising yeah he's actually had the poker face on yeah cruise through that move don't let the route know that you're scared it's watching you again slightly awkward clip reaching over and bringing the quick draw in front of you like that but she manages it okay and then there's this possible rest here on this big blue hole coming up she may actually choose just to push on and try and get stood up above it all take a rest on both in both places more than half her time remaining and 16 moves to go 32 behind us so she's exactly two-thirds of the way up the route by move looking pretty good so far the next section is very technical i can imagine some athletes getting confused with the beta here let's see if she manages or if she gets confused but is strong enough just to pull through [Music] not done yet not done yet a little bit more rest good work for the root setters by the way uh you can see the spread of scores no one moves stopping everybody [Music] now she's thinking about this the beta that we have been given is to go right hand and right hand again with this right foot it's coming to her finding that hole now you come up left to pinch the volume to reach out into the corner being smart through here it's obviously not that good a hole with the right hand because that looks such a comfortable position to rest him but no one's really done much more than paul's to chalk up no they want to get out of here now this looks a better position the problem is you can't really drop that right knee because the volume is in the way so you can't get quite as comfy as you'd like she has to drop down in this right hand hold oh i just went up with the left and suddenly found herself in a bit of trouble it looks like one of those moves that big move up left where if you can do it slowly it might be a little bit easier exactly just feel around for where you want your hand to go rather really committing to a spot early on exactly at that stage your hands are so tired you don't want to weight them and when you're on those feet you want to just stay but in that position she needed to put the right hand and drop down to weight it to slowly come up to the next fortunately at the height you don't want to slowly she throws up and tries to latch it but even at this angle where she's gastoning it's so hard to latch so the fourth and final slovenian woman is about to head out onto the stage after her there is one more french climber one more italian and it is the familiar figure of yanya garnbreth i'm just looking down the ramp uh waiting for yanya to come up let's have a look at her moving graphics [Music] she's mouthing to sort of saying to the cameraman through gritted teeth how much longer but she's at the fancy door now all's [Music] good [Music] we've talked about a few climbs with a big opportunity first steps into this level of competition and you're more than used to operating at this level let's see how comfortable she looks again this theme that i've decided is important probably isn't but i like to just decide things every once in a while really interested to see how yanny goes she uh we we both chatted to her afterwards she said she really enjoyed the route really enjoyed having such a big challenge said it was hard which means it really was hard um and she loved it we've seen daniel always defeat just cut loose we've seen yanya a couple of times kind of cruise lead routes and even though she's won the competition and she's pleased looked pretty fed up to be honest at the fact that she wasn't challenged a little bit more it would be great to see her really fight this route that's only a problem yanu would have but i do have high hopes for seeing her through these top moves yeah you know you're something special when world cups just aren't hard enough for you [Music] even able to chalk up midway through the 360. as you do [Music] 15 lead world cups wins for yanya to go with the 11 in bouldering now for the dino something i feel she won't have any problem with oh power oh yeah you're putting on a show here chalking up midway through the 360. now chalking up having just done the power move and it's interesting when you get a climber as legendary as yanya ganbre the atmosphere does change in the venue somewhat even people that have got work to do managing the event suddenly work just gets put to one side for a second and all eyes turn upwards to watch yanya on the wall it's definitely a shifting atmosphere when she comes out really a show to see very early clip but she's got the comfort and the reach there pinch strength able to hold her on and that little double screw on the volume so she's found her way up to the point where a lot of the climbers have rested and i think january is going to do the same and take a little bit of a pause you've got that you could see it just put that heel hook in place and you can kind of cam your foot in against the wall as well just to make it a little bit more secure and chooses to clip whilst resting she will know that she's got plenty of time left of course he can look over her shoulder there is a clock facing up for the climbers so they can always see how long they've got and you're left a pretty big pretty big pause 33 you can see from january only 48 holes on the route so 15 to go 2 minutes 30 left two of her compatriots uh tied on that move out towards the big hole where we lost jesse pills trouble through there getting very bunched up but manages it okay even resting on this hold that takes some finger strength [Music] now trying to make a plan through the next section everyone's struggled a little bit here probably very aware once she starts off that's it pushes on so this is a crucial move hit two of her compatriots fell on that move jan you're actually able to have a little shake out midway through the move and has absolutely no trouble at all so it's moving off this hold right where jesse pils fell yanya's crimping so hard there but something she's very used to do really scrapping now yanyon able to just take out all these little little shakes of the arm just gets rid of a tiny bit of pump if you can just get it at one percent it helps and you can see just about every move she's just having a little shake of the hand and able to pause on an absolutely terrible hole on the top section of the wall janya cambridge looking incredibly strong not the first time i've said that doing this job it has to be said so 42 the high point of fanny is now surpassed by yanya she's got 43 and 44. perhaps gone a bit early with the left feet no she manages to correct it that is the second to last quick draw now for yanya but she's just struggling to clip it is she no she just got a little bit bunched up and there she is climbing towards our camera at the top of the brianson wall couple more moves to go no doubt yanya's had to work hard for this route but it looks like she can top it but can she read the top section right has she got enough energy left it certainly looks from here like she has but she's got to get it right she's shaking out with every movement now the top beckons here goes yanya we live in a different world but some things don't change yanya gambret on top of the lead wall once again can anybody surpass it she's set the standard here in brian's on two climbers still to go they could beat it on count back to previous rounds but yanis topped the route [Music] takes more than the global pandemic to slow her down yanya gombret 15 world cup wins and that is why and that's in lead only 26 in total and six world championships as well and you've just had a little glimpse into why that might be such an impressive job did you see how much she was shaking out at the top that that athlete was exceptionally pumped but she made she's so aware of her energy levels she knew just exactly how much she needed to shake to be able to do the next move to measure herself and keep going all the way to the top through these very very difficult moves and she also read that beta perfectly which is very impressive to go up with that left hand to the two discs on the last straw before the top and then to swing the feet all the way over left and come underneath into this two two-finger pocket and then reach up really amazing so yanya really put the pressure on the remaining two climbers it's uh nina arto will be out first and then laura regora but if they want to win the competition they have to top the route [Music] looking forward to seeing nina r token competing in a world cup final look very very strong in yesterday's semi-final only only just ahead of janja and those tied on the 26 plus move she got 27 but ahead nonetheless and suddenly after the drama of yanya battling through the head wall we all have to calm down ever so slightly let do her thing through the lower section where it's all about efficiency it's all about not wasting any energy that you might want higher up looking so smooth through the section though [Music] it does bode well again another foot slip must be hard to stick to that [Music] all right already up with the jug fast climbing maybe she is aware that she does need to top it but she needs to top it faster than janja straight into the 360. good old chalk up if you caught that have a see of how precisely she put her foot on there something that you may not take for granted when you go up to these holes you have to grab it so precisely you have to put your feet on so precisely especially in this competition brian's on this setters have been exceptionally punishing for those with bad technique in their feet [Music] so you can see the standard has been set now by janja laura gore of course has never won a world cup neighbors nina alto actually just uh paused for a second there neither is nina and they are under real pressure because only a top will do the job [Music] unusual spot to rest actually quite an unusual rest position kind of pushing with the feet like that yeah it's odd but it probably works yeah she had a right foot on a tiny little hold i don't think it's even big enough for the camera to pick it up it's just enough to give us something to work with but there are definitely better rests higher up this route we think looking very motivated here the determination is palpable [Music] manages to make her way out to the rest really cut loose so it's quite a big swing as she went out to it [Music] [Applause] so gets the clip done plenty of time for ninato [Music] see where everyone else got to andy gombra head and shoulders above and else so far [Music] just as she was heading towards the head wall ninato [Music] you can see there that she was already tired by the time she got to that rest not that i would ever be able to rest on it i actually think that's a very difficult hole to rest on and she was very aware i'd say that she needs to push on fast she didn't rest as long as she probably wanted to she tried to keep going and then again ran into that problem with the going up left hand have another see the left hand going up eighth last year in brian's son she's going to improve on that but sadly won't be enough for a podium it means yanya is guaranteed at least second so she will pick up another medal but there's only really one color she's interested in now rigor the only climber now who can do anything about it and that the scene mountains just beginning to disappear into the darkness behind it's a spectacular sight in brienne the wall just looks better and better as the night goes by becomes increasingly silhouetted [Music] laura agora here she is on the graphics kissing the guns love that maybe my favorite graphics so far uh looked like she wanted to get on with it she almost ran up the ramp to get onto the stage and the belayer had to kind of pull her back and just wait while she was introduced to the crowd looks like she really wants to get on with this laura and 9b climber outdoors which is um pretty unimaginable for most of us what can she do in the competitions can she claim that first world cup win [Music] recently having climbed this 9b i believe she is the second woman ever to achieve the grade of 9b no mean feat whatsoever really really mind-blowing achievement and displayed so amazingly in the semi-finals last night how this athlete could produce so much power and then continue to hold onto the wall keep going head and shoulders above everyone else who tried that route in the semi-finals last night let's see what she can make of it tonight unfortunately as yanya already has a top he focuses on climbing this fast again another query is if she saw the 360 beta oh no doubt instantly through there clipping upside down even very fancy [Music] so only a top will do for laura agora she would win the competition on count back to the semi-final result if she topped the route it's a big if you look at some of the names who've been stopped by this route fanny g bear jesse pilch joshua keller nina georgiotecio it's a tough route [Music] by the way if you're wondering where vita lucan is she's actually uh hit the same 39 plus as joshua kellan so her name not visible on the graphic so laura got this big move up now needs to go confidently [Music] just wasn't quite sure what to do with the feet we've seen a couple of climbers there have that problem where they can't quite get set on their feet oh and there was a second there where it looked a little bit in the balance for laura agora right foot fired out behind her and just seemed to generate a bit more momentum than she wanted a lot of the athletes not so comfortable with doing the more dynamic throw with the right hand up to that hold which really does seem like the easiest method to do when they lean onto this left hand and take all the weight in the pinch it really does make it quite difficult saying that if there's one athlete who can do this and keep going on it's lara agora yeah her endurance looked absolutely amazing last night she was getting to the the section that was spitting off climbers of the caliber of yan yagamra and then just carrying on through and actually i was almost surprised when she fell she looked really really solid this is another big move up to the uh the hole that climbs have been resting on three minutes to go some time and likely to be an issue for laura unless she takes a really really long break and it's not that good a rest clearly it's okay get some chalk on board maybe get just pause for a second and re-gather your thoughts before the head wall but um doesn't look that comfortable and she's actually not pausing much at all so remember only a top will do for laura just had a leg round the rope manages to free it now oh finding the intended beta this could prove very useful for these next moves gets the thumb gets the weight into the wall looking very good for lara 11 more moves two click draws to clip once she's through that the top beckons look at that she's turned around having a look down very relaxed here able to fit her fingers in there and treat it like it's the best hold in the wall she's managing this well laura agora i think not made too many mistakes catching the leg on the rope a couple of times but generally seems to figure the moves out pretty well really hard move up and left here though oh you see that right arm starting to come out but i feel like lara is going to be able to deal with this and keep going on [Music] definitely getting a bit pumped to laura agora understandably uh but with a minute and a half left she'll have plenty of time to top the route if she can keep going if she can read it right we saw yanya pausing [Music] in the section coming up just trying to figure out how to move left got herself ever so slightly bunched up will laura found a different method [Music] high tension here one minute 10 left for laura agora hunting down that first ever world cup when yanya gombrette will be looking on anxiously remember if laura tops the route it's enough for the win she'd win it on countback to the semi-final the elbows right down now clearly getting so pumped reaching through it was the method the reset hasn't said might be tried again their leg gets caught on the road but she's calm enough to be able to look behind her could that first world cup win beckon for laura agora it's been coming for a while is today the day chooses to clip below the top hold and that is a world cup win for laura gore the first one this young superstar is now taking on and beating yanya gombret we knew she was an exceptional climber she showed amazing promise appearing in world cup finals winning youth world championships but now she is the real deal she takes a world cup win her first ever in br and it comes here in brian son [Applause] and she knew what was required she knows what this means so psyched overcome with emotion just briefly she deserves this win [Music] yeah amazing i was a little bit unsure she got onto the upper section her elbows right out clearly really pumped uh and then when she got set on that last yellow volume and looked at the crowd uh sorry looked at the time i thought oh actually she's gonna do this yeah yeah a bit of a panic you saw when she got her left hand out to the two discs and then she tries to match with the right hand finding the fingers through there that could have been very troublesome if she's focused on that beta and spent the time trying to find this match but thankfully she had the ability to reach through and under to think of a new method and once she got her fingers in those pockets she looked so comfortable she looked like she was relaxed she turned around checked the time i thought okay i can do this went for the top and there it is she's introducing the crowd fanny g bear picks up a lead world cup medal in third place it's january in second and laura in first exceptional performance from her that amazingly strong climb in the semi-finals paid off she won it on countback [Music] let's just have a look as the results pulled up remember the results aren't confirmed and i think we all saw with our own eyes laura agora finding the top as did yan yagamri and fannie g bear ends up third jesse pilcz ever so slightly short the podium ends up with 41 plus by the way you might have seen laura agora didn't actually touch the top hole but that doesn't matter it's about clipping the top quick draw that's when you've topped the root since you didn't actually need to do the final move clever from her it doesn't matter how you get there as long as you find the top and she has one as her first world cup win i think a few people felt it was coming and she has delivered yanya looked pretty happy as well but she doesn't always when she's uh second first competitor i think she knew the route was hard she was pleased with the top but ultimately it's fine margins that decide it and yeah lower in the semi-final means that she wins in the final so again the wall illuminated we await the rival of the men in the meantime i will be speaking to laura rigora i believe she's just making her way around to our interview area but done excellent start to the evening fantastic final for the women it'd be nice if the men's could deliver something similar and great big shout out to the root setters as well really good split of results not many people falling on the same move we often see a stopper move but as it was everyone falling in different places we got to see the whole route climbed which is something that wasn't quite experienced in the semis last night i think the root sailors were very aware of the results of the semis and made some intentional changes to this is what when you don't see anyone climb and everyone's in lockdown you don't know what the level is and the route setters made a good guess it was a good guess it did a really great job but then tonight they knew they could just fine-tune it and make it a little bit better to see these athletes split up the way they want them to be split up so as i say we will have a presentation of the male athletes then observation and then the men's final afterwards as well we're also going to have a tribute to french climber luce du rd who tragically was killed a few months ago not too far from here and uh so do stay with us after the end of the men's final as well as the podiums we will have a tribute to luce du rd have another look at uh laura agora on this top section down and talk us through it and i'm going to go and speak to laura herself lara looking so confident through here the fact that she was able to lean over on that hold on the right and rest and now being very aware that this is the difficult section it's now time to push but she's pushing she's going for it clipping on these horrible holes now high feet it's so difficult to put high feet up when you're tired to remember your feet at all most climbers mostly climbers you're probably very well you're aware yourself that when you're pumped you just start seeing hand holds footholds don't exist anymore lara is doing everything just right she's shaking out she's measuring how much energy she has look at that move such a difficult move to do at this such a difficult move to do on the ground never mind at this height but she finds the precision such a small gap in between those holes and now she crosses under sorts herself out for the top charlie now is going to be interviewing lara to find out how she's enjoyed herself larry you have just won your first world cup what are you feeling right now it's still unbelievable i knew that my ship was good and that i improved a lot this year but i've never imagined that i could win and when you hand your top the route you must have realized that you had to top to win was that a lot of extra pressure yes i knew that yeah top dita and from the observation i knew it was possible and well i i had some pressure but not so much because they have nothing to lose and tell me about the top section it looked like you got quite pumped near the top and then you recovered is that how it felt on the wall uh yes the the first part of the route was quite easy then there was a string jump and i couldn't see the hold so i stayed a bit there but then on the on this lab i could recover for the art section which was just before the chain and at the top you didn't actually grab the top hole did you realize during the observation that that was possible uh yes i was not sure if you could reach it but when i write there i said okay i can reach it and so i click from there and finally what are your plans for the rest of the year obviously we don't know if we have any more competitions but what are you doing for the rest of the year now uh i have not planned yet i don't know if after this competition i will come back to to trading for the olympics or i would climb a bit of rock and then start the training okay well fantastic achievement world cup winner congratulations thank you very much and just now we're waiting for the men to get ready for the world cup final brian song tonight the crowd is alive if you just tuned in lara regora has just won the female final of brian such an amazing moment you saw her roar the crowd erupted fantastic and now we have the male competitors waiting at the fancy door i just got back from uh from interviewing laura and he's still on about that door whoever put it together will be feeling pretty pleased themselves have plenty of attention on the live streams caused all sorts of comedy [Music] so out come the male climbers the titus posh first world cup final for him looked strong in the austrian events earlier on this summer looking forward to seeing how he goes here i talk more about laura gore in that interview in just a second out comes luca first of two slovenians first final for him as well and out next a man who doesn't seem to uh feel the cold standing in a t-shirt most people have just put a second jacket on here comes now monster apologies it's majdy slack who's behind him i could just see a french uniform with no jacket on so now now monster does feel a cold but the next man out trust me the next man out doesn't here he comes made a tough stop really cold now here in brian so the temperature really beginning to fall we've got a really uh we've got a bit of a view of the ramp as i say that the climb has come up we can just about make them out and next out looks like he's got his game face on is domin a former winner here in brian's on that year in 2016 when he took the overall title [Music] calm and collected here see who's nervous who's who's ready to fire up getting a really big build up now for alex magos fresh from climbing his 9c sport route in siouxs not too far from here he's back in competition action every time he does something uh one here in branson of course the 2018 first world cup win for him came right here over two years ago now jakob schubert's picked up one or two world cup wins down the years it's been known to happen yes 18 in lead three in boulder for a total of 21 world cup wins quite extraordinary stuff he's looking for another one tonight but he's got to beat this man the greatest all-round rock climber on the planet and he looked on top form even by his standards yesterday in the semi-finals it is adam andre incredibly strong men's final really interesting looking men's final as well you've got a the first four climbers uh matthias luca now and meg mejd really just so excited to be here and then doman alex jacob and adam absolute dead-eyed winners all desperate to take the gold medal so it's a really interesting final kind of a final of two halves of those who are really happy to be here and trying to learn from the experience and just do as well as he can and whatever happens it's a bonus and then four people for whom only first is good enough interesting mix but it's interesting i mean last year here for the men's final we had three climbers make up the podium none of whom had ever been on a world cup podium so you just don't know i mean you can't help but look at that list and think well surely jacob dorman alex adam one of them has got to take the win but you just don't know might not be their day might not be their route that is the sport of climbing it really can end up going anyway sometimes you could be the strongest climber in the world but if you read the beta wrong or if your foot pops you're off there's nothing else you can do about it and the climbers that are consistently reaching the top on even the most technical technical climbs are really really impressive doing something magical but i'm always prepared for something to go wrong for these heavy hitting climbers interesting there the three uh german speakers albeit austrian germans a bit different but just a little yeah the three german speakers all comparing notes i'll tell you what old mattias posh probably thinking well this'll do first world cup final i get to stand next to alex magos and jacob schubert and listen in it's a good good to check them getting things right i think it's this way but i'll just ask these two a good bit of expertise to have alongside you just saw adam andra come up on the stage as well adam by the way he's such a thinker he's wearing his chalk bag we've seen this before it wears his chalk bag during observation and chalks up whilst imagining climbing the roots is i did ask him about this and it's something to do with kind of the muscles being fired from imagining climbing it's kind of a visualization thing and he chalks up whilst uh observing there's not many things he hasn't thought of that's mad it is a very useful thing though maybe not in this occasion but i do know that on the hard routes that i've attempted you you pick a point that you're going to chalk up you pick a point where you're like this hole's good enough i'm going to chalk up here and so maybe he's thinking about that as well but just a theory well if you want to attempt some hard roots there's a new 9c just down the road rope on it get alex to tell you where the good holds are [Music] yeah that's the route they're attempting 43 holds on the men's route so a few less than the women black volumes and green holes actually uh i think it's only one if memory serves me right there's one pink hold one pink screw on that's just near the top is one two uh no the one it's like pinky purple not very good but it's there but i i would actually say that about all of the holds on this route not very good but they're there your first impression by the way when you went to observe this route was that it looked hard there was an extra word thrown in there to really emphasize just how hard it looked yeah maybe one or two extra words it really looks stiff even at this level of competition this route looks so unforgiving there's no good holes that i can see on it now maybe i'll be have to eat my hat or one of those many things soon but everything looks so difficult to hold a lot of the holes are screw-ons and volumes the type of thing where you have to grab just right and make sure you've got the friction on it to be able to pull through and then in theory the beta is relatively basic but see if that comes to people as they climb uh the problem is if the beta is basic then the moves are going to be hard interestingly enough uh we've been talking about how yes we don't have everybody here that we'd like to see in a world cup but all three members of the ifsc world championship podium in 2019 jakob schubert alex megos and adam andra are all climbing this evening so don't for a second think that this is any lower level than any other world cup that sounds pretty okay to me and there they are the three of them ah do you think they they have all the best intentions for each other well this is something i've talked about before it's a controversial topic but yeah i it's so hard to you you want to win it is it's a really tricky one observation i'm trying to think that there are some climbers that don't seem like they want to talk too much to their rivals i'm trying to think if i've ever seen anyone just literally ignore everybody yeah i don't know if that's the case it could be a case of uh you just don't like the people around you there is always that i think as well it's when you're if you're nervous it's very hard to be chatty and to smile and share beta you could barely even think about the moves yourself it's very hard to communicate in a lot of these high tension situations two french climbers sticking together and comparing notes and the volunteers so far have done their job no one bind it off the stage uh just yet and now the climbers are being ushered off the wall fsc officials doing their thing as we we talked about this during the semi-finals it is hard to believe that that extra three seconds after six minutes makes a difference but generally the climbers try and look at the route for as long as possible before heading off but head off they will and uh i would add myself to that the ifsc would like to thank those who are dedicating their time and effort to combating the kobe 19 pandemic sport climbing stands with you and i salute you as well thank you for all your work this is how they will line up this evening matthias posh will be first out first world cup final for him as we said those first four climbers you have to think that for them it's all a bonus being here is a bonus it's all a learning experience but one of them could bolt and put in that strong performance and put those four climbers lower down um under some real pressure so many interesting subplots in this men's final if it's anything like the women's final we're in for a treat laura agora picking up her first ever world cup win beating yanya gombret no less very very impressed by funny bear who just pushed through like nobody's business after she forgot which way was up managed to correct herself and get on all the way yeah strong great job strong performances all round most people felt they were able to give their all on that women's route will it be the same on the men's yesterday in the semi-finals there's a couple of places where your foot could could slip off the women's final it looked like one of those routes where you really could give it everything there weren't too many people who kind of got unlucky yeah everyone had to make a mistake or get tired in order to fall off and that's what we want yeah and there you can see the wall the crowd is uh well i was about to say the crowd's still out there i mean i assume they're still out there yeah the wall kind of the only only light around we're on we're in the sports complex uh on the edge of brian's on newtown brianna's kind of divided into the old town the walled old town and then lower down in the valley uh there's kind of a new town and we're on the edge of the new town [Music] and that's the scene so the women were on the right with their 48 handholds and just 43 for the men on the left up through the black volumes and green holes and that one pink hold when we get a bit closer you will see it and you can see francois legron's laser pointer he's just pointing at the door he says this holds bad and this holds bad yeah this one's bad me and you should be listening to him he's a legend of the game uh-huh he's probably got some pretty good info do you think the athletes are listening to him i'd be listening in it'd be worth learning french yeah speak it anyway learn a quick bit of french quickly before you start up for your route [Music] yeah a couple of minutes until we get started actually on the men's route it will be matthias posh out first women's final actually took a little bit longer than scheduled on our on our tv schedule partly because all the climbers got pretty high up and also because we had nine instead of the regulation eight so we are running slightly behind schedule so i'd imagine uh we will have the first climber out pretty quickly as i say and then alex megos jakob schubert and adam andrade is a heavy hitting men's final not too many big surprises actually in the semi-final other of course than the performance of those four young climbers who are at the top of this final order [Music] one of the big surprises actually was one of the young climbers in the form of alberto gines lopez not bringing his 2019 form into 2020 quite a big mistake from him relatively low down means he won't climb in the final a few friends of mine text me saying they were a bit disappointed about that he put on a fantastic show in a few world cups last year but you've got to earn it every time yeah and he couldn't find a way in the semi-final that's the difference a simple foot slip can make so this is why you always try i'd like to make some predictions but always try to stay open what could happen in a final let me assure you after five years doing this job that the predictions is a mugs game that is how to embarrass yourself publicly for sure for sure just as i say i've got a really good feeling about x you know the shoe falls off of something honestly don't go there well at least i got my 360. yeah you got that right well you reckoned you promised it that's all i wanted as far as i'm aware there's none on this route but we have our athlete now tying his knot on the ramp yeah every time spot getting ready to go what were your thoughts on this route other than the fact that it looked hard um and you'd correct me if i'm wrong he didn't think it was that easy to read in certain sections uh okay right i'll tell you i didn't think it was that easy to read because i thought there's no way you can hold those holes so uh and then i got the root center and he said no you do hold that so [Music] it could prove a bit tricky if the athletes are like me and think nope i don't want that in my hand but i'm sure they're not i'm sure they're a little bit better well they're not exactly got a lot of alternatives so uh we will see the tyres posh first climber out just going through his quick observation looks like he's learned the route pretty well you can see him just mimicking each move he's obviously found a pinch somewhere did it take us 40 seconds once you're done with it this is one of those routes where you really have to get in the right headspace you can see right from the start all of the holes are small you have to grab them precisely look at that full crimps around it knowing it's not good enough to hold with an open hand or a relaxed hand in any shape or form you need to be in the perfect headspace the whole way through this route if you want to manage to keep going so our first chance to have a look at the route as you can see not many good holds on it even at this early stage by the way that thing just above his head it's not a bolt it's actually the logo of the volume actually in this light it kind of looks like a bolt on that black volume that's currently right in front of his chest but it's actually as i'll say the logo difficult turn here this undercut is not good at all it's a full-on sloper but into that deeper crimp see how he looks on into the more powerful section now always tricky being first out you've really got no guide how anyone's done you've got haven't really heard much from the mc or the crowd got no feedback at all on how the route is climbing [Music] amazing how much you can learn actually behind the wall if the climber sets off and 10 seconds later the crowd's going crazy and everyone's shouting you know it probably kicks in pretty quickly tires posh our pioneer on this men's route [Music] oh difficult move there but manages it looking very sturdy so far [Music] not the easiest moves possibly not looking as comfortable as he'd like but he's it's not shaking or making any big mistakes i'm just trying to figure out surely when he releases that right foot there's going to be quite a swing does well to keep it in place as he goes up with the left and then the swing comes and you could see how much he was relying on that right foot to keep him in place and when it did pop he just couldn't hang on thought he might have salvaged the situation when he went up for the left crimp [Music] still looking up still uh wondering if you could have done something different he might get to find out now as seven more climbers try and beat that mark [Music] you could see there it was that big right heel hook once you grab a hold like that you want to put a heel on it takes so much weight off your hands but then as he moves away from the heel hook suddenly it starts to become a bit of an issue it's taking all that weight you have to release that weight and suddenly put it onto the arms sometimes you're better off switching to a toe and dragging it out slowly sometimes you can manage by maneuvering your left foot to find a more stable body position whatever the correct method is right now matthias posh did not find it he did not can luca appearing in his first world cup final as well can he find it she's just being beckoned to get up the ramp here he comes oh the big reveal with the mask one of the better graphics actually like that he wins there get steady on we haven't seen the others yet oh yes might do a handstand so how long will he take of his observation uh not much it would seem yeah really interesting to see how this route climbed that was a great description by the way dannon [Music] the only reason i thought it was hard to read is i couldn't believe you could hold all the holds we shall see if you're just tuning in by the way it's ten past nine on a lovely august evening in the south of france charlie bosco here and dana markey alongside me watching some of the world's best do battle in brian son after what felt like a very long wait without any climbing luca's looking quite relaxed through here casually pulling up on those arms with strength despair just remembers the clip as well went for the hole came back got the clip done [Music] not proving too problematic this lower section so far on those dual texture black volumes should point out i'm not sure if it really comes across on the camera but they are dual textured part of them the inner bit quite useful the outer bit quite the opposite minute 15 elapsed as he heads on to the change of angle i like it he looks pretty chill he might even be having a good time [Music] it must be so tricky appearing in your first final you want to enjoy it but you also want to do yourself justice so many so many emotions to try and manage into the shoulder but then that would have been a bit tricky used it though as an intermediate to get through 26 the high point to beat remember 43 in [Music] total [Music] nice little drop knee there i like that let's see now what he chooses to do with his feet now then this is where we lost matthias i know the score might not reflect it but it was that right foot that he couldn't release so he did this move and then as he tried to release cut loose as luca does but luka manages to stay on really control the swing much better now slaps up and you can see already with less than three minutes elapsed got a fight on his hands [Music] actually nearing pulling onto the head wall he's through the very steepest section once he gets the next couple of moves done slaps up with the right hand definitely getting pumped here luca the elbows are out and his head's flicking back betraying the effort that's going in tries a little drop me as he goes up with the left hand and he can't quite hold it really good fight though enjoyed that showed us how to do that move as well where you release the right foot yeah if you saw if you caught it he did it very quickly he flicked it into a toe before releasing it and actually you'd be quite surprised how much energy that saves on the the release next dragging out from a toe rather than just pulling the heel really allows you to slow down how quickly the force is released and if you understand physics if the force is released slower then there's less to deal with that's not how it's explained no f equals ma force equals mass times acceleration the acceleration of the mass if it's slower he has less force to deal with in the very unlikely event that my physics teacher is watching this he's probably thinking if charlie even attempts to explain physics i'm going to complain to the broadcasting standards agency because he probably remembers my performance in physics now manchoi getting ready to go looks like he's looking forward to this hint of a smile on his face and if you can't enjoy running out in front of 5 000 people in a home world cup what can you enjoy those lights by the way down the front are incredibly bright when you're on the stage you can barely see anything of the crowd take a little more of that observation time than the two climbers before him quick uh clean of the shoes and he'll be on his way yeah it looks like he's up for this now martial psyched pretty important [Music] looking very comfortable through here so third climber in a row appearing in his first final what's he got what can he do with this opportunity it's being handed to him being handed to him he earned yesterday it is so impressive to see how these athletes are so comfortable and their first time at such a big oh i know i'd just be and we have seen some climbers who are visibly nervous it does occur often oh i really had to go for that move it does look like he sort of paced himself with the music almost there was that sort of harajus before and now it's slowed down and he's taking a rest not the easiest position to rest but i wonder if he's got some inkling that this next section is tricky from observation obviously he hasn't watched the two climbers come before and he wouldn't have seen the tires posh fall but as you say choose choosing to rest in not the most comfortable position now get the heel hook in place the key would appear to be releasing that heel hook slowly turns it into a tow hook oh the left foot slipped as he went up with the left hand i could see he was concentrating on his right toe there he knew he needed to take make that sticker come out slowly and he was thinking too much about that the left foot comes out [Music] that's frustrating for him it looks like he had a bit of gas left yep not pumped yet but interesting that he kind of fell differently from the tyres posh it was as he was going for the left hand but tyler's boss got the left hand and then fell yeah and now monster i was going up for it let's have another look see matthias could reach the left hand from the position he was in whereas this athlete needed to push up the drive to get it and that meant really standing on that left foot possibly releasing the right toe at the same time unfortunately it all didn't all add up and he came off the wall his compatriot majdy schlack will be next out that's that's a new one yeah did you catch that graphic i did yeah one scene never forgotten makes his way out onto the brian's on stage his compatriot now marshwa just fell around that whole 24 mark [Music] probably has a good plan wants to make sure that he executes it perfectly [Music] so six minutes begins for him and he's underway hard to believe that by the time he's finished his attempt we'll already be halfway through this final flying by this men's fireman you said the route looked hard and we've only seen one climber really have a look at the very top [Music] section i am interested in seeing the top top section the top section of all routes you can see a good push happening but this one in particular it's a push but it's so precise it's still quite beta intensive it'd be very amazing to see if the athletes can get their way up that had a bit of a moment actually as he entered this steeper section of walmejd managed to get himself sorted now [Music] [Applause] instead of pausing like no monsters he's uh straight into it and this is the absolutely crucial section on the lower part of the roof it would seem looking very comfortable in that right heel hook see how wide his hips are the techniques there but it's the same move yeah i felt like he could have kept his feet on there and stood up but he was determined he really looked like he wanted to jump up into that crimp and stick stick it in a more powerful way just before he was doing so well holding his hips tight to the wall keeping them very open the technique was taking all the weight off his arms didn't stick to it tried a more powerful beta which just wasn't the way i think he might be a little bit frustrated with that felt he was climbing quickly good spring in his step and uh yeah maybe just slightly miscalculated the move or did the feet cut loose unexpectedly let's have a look now he he meant for the feet to come off yep yeah he was jumping off that left foot trying to grab it in one go but i imagine that undercut on his left for his left hand was not as good as he first imagined [Music] so four climbers gone four still to come it will be dom next and then alex megos jakob schuber and adam andra this route packing a punch exactly as you said pretty terrible holds and there's a long way between them yeah yeah this is a low number of holes which means the moves are pretty big interesting though when luca went through that move where we've seen climbers falling didn't look too bad if you can keep your feet engaged oh yeah yeah it is uh been a theme with these root setters in riyazan so far that they they punish you if you can't use your feet which personally i do love to see it's one of the more special parts of climbing rather than just going through with power to use the technique to get through movements if you can do that you're often so much better off because it's very hard to gain technique whereas power can come in a predictable way you can take the training plans you can learn how to get powerful very hard to get good at technique but the athletes who are going to be getting towards the top need to have a hell of a lot of both they certainly do and just look at who is still to come no shortage of power dominant of course just being made to we've wait a little pause and you can see complete darkness here in brian's son in the opposite direction there's one church silhouetted on the hillside high above us but everything behind the wall is completely dark now and it's cold there's no getting around it temperatures absolutely plummeted conditions i'd imagine pretty good on the wall right now that humidity that you mentioned earlier on i don't think has really come through no i think fish hour is over now we haven't quite got a breeze but it's good i imagine you'll feel quite sticky on those holes or at least you'll need to domain getting ready to go he's uh at the top of the ramp about to make his way onto the stage just gets a final few minutes to himself before he has to make his way out in front of 5 000 people in brian's he's pretty happy with his performance in the semi-finals can he back it up with a big performance here in the final of course a winner in brian's son four years ago that same year when he took the overall season title he's got his work cut out if he wants a win here but doman is a climber more than capable of winning this competition make no mistake about that being one of the more experienced climbers i have high hopes that he will have thought through the beta and this stopper section in a different way and understand what needs to be done to get through it [Music] you can see they're 30 at the current high point set by doman's compatriot gunning for that sixth world cup win already got a fight on his hands and he's ended up in a bit of an awkward position can't we see it from that angle but he had to kind of cross through to clip the quick draw yeah not the best position to clip from but it doesn't actually look amazingly comfortable right now i think he'd be pretty glad to leave that right hand undercling behind some people it you'd be quite surprised some athletes really get put off by underclings suddenly it's a very different style that can throw off even some of the strongest climbers to me looking slow but controlled determined and intentional here very good climbing if he can maintain it through these more difficult sections [Music] commits up with the right hand had to employ a drop knee just to get himself comfortable that's the good drop knee i like that drop me [Music] sorry get the clip done pretty comfortable with heel hooks in general dominance so uh you'll feel pretty solid on that right foot but it's got to stay there ah really smooth that's how you do it so powerful through there it's hard to believe that's a move where we've lost three climbers and domin just cruises through it you wouldn't pick it out as one of the harder moves on the route amazing display of core strength you could see he drove everything into his left toe and he could take that right foot off that right heel hook off statically that's just core strength that's like amazing training there that he's displayed [Music] pushing the high point further and further definitely getting a bit pumped elbows are out now after three minutes on a very hard men's final route here in brian's on but he's still going and he's within 10 moves of the top there it is feet cut loose could have probably done without that doman but he's back on now and fighting towards the top gets the clip done there's actually a compulsory clipping position when you see that blue tape there that means that that quick draw has to be clipped from a specific hold which will either have been marked or identified during observation the climbers will have been shown where it is if it can't be marked for some reason dominant now heading out right looking really really strong couldn't we see an early top of the route with three climbers still to go bumping up these block holes now dominant trying to figure out does he cross through does he bump up needs to cross with the left hand absolutely on the limit dominant and i think his first emotion is frustration he might not be when he sees the scores he's so far clear of everyone else but suddenly this route which has been spitting world-class climbers off relatively low down looks like it can be topped be interested to know what daniel dorman was so frustrated about did he feel he read it wrong did he go with the wrong hand i do believe he read it wrong i think he knew he had more in him he knew he could have gotten to the top he probably realized that he read it wrong the intended beta at least from the root setters is to go up with this left hand and then bump it again rather than this really difficult cross through did a fantastic job to make that cross through but just couldn't quite stick it nicely fanny g bear again briefly and now yeah you're right you see that the hole that his right hand was on is so bad you have a really good left heel and you can use it to ride all the way up through those three holes to get the top one but in his body position with that right hand you're so closed in that more difficult position to hold and it was just too much for him to hold on to yeah you can see there's three holes he's working his way through as well they're all blocking each other causing you all sorts of problems here's alex magos he just knew his graphic was good looking to repeat his triumph of 2018 [Music] here he comes feels very at home in france speaks the language spent a lot of time particularly recently at seuss with the first percent of his 9c bibliography and that's where he's got to get to hold 41 or better big smile on his face there let's see if adam can compose himself and get through this route he actually had a bit of trouble in the qualifiers where one of the roots he told me after he just couldn't quite find his flow or his rhythm and he ended up falling quite low down he did find his rhythm for the next route and that was enough to get him easily into semis so there is that possibility that his flow or rhythm might not come to him i would say he's looking pretty okay right now let's ever see how he finds the rest of this brilliant route been really good routes in both finals i have to say big shout out to the route seth has got so little information to go off having seen so little of the climbers recently they've done an exceptional job uh this is where domin got a little bit bunched up a little bit tied up yeah he tried to clip from the undercut which is just awkward alex could clip from the holes below and didn't have to worry about that just reaching straight through to that better crimp [Music] no issues so far for alex nope nope going straight to that right hand hold not needing the shoulder move in between happily clipping off of that tiny crimp oh keeping his feet low using his height through that move it's interesting to see climbers of these different calibers sometimes they can just do moves whatever way they want to they're so powerful now then this is a crucial move here we'd be surprised if alex did fall the right foot came off i think it was by choice oh yeah nice and controlled that's not nice in control though alex in all sorts of trouble and gets his leg caught round the rope for good measure [Music] alex megos suddenly suddenly ran into trouble no doubt he's in good physical shape right now but he has been saying he's not sure how that will translate to competition climbing look to all right in the semi-final but not his night in the final so that means dominant guaranteed his place on the podium his first now with only two climbers still to go alex has had a pretty good august regardless of what happens here but uh it doesn't look too upset but it'd be interesting to see what happened there yeah such a pity he climbed through that lower section so intentionally and so well i feel like he just thought that hold was better than it was i thought it was better than it was or he just hopped up to it and it didn't quite go together but you saw him jumping up to it rather than putting the feet up and i suspect got a pretty nasty bit of rope burn there alex i think i just saw him kind of limp off the stage it wouldn't be at all surprised he's got a little less skin on the back of his right leg than he had five minutes ago yeah it's not a serious injury but not much hurts more no man it's horrible really horrible so uh alex magos big surprise there falling lower than we would have expected [Music] and out now comes jakob schubert will it be a 22nd world cup win for jakob schubert will it be a sick for domin will it be 15th for adam andrew really interesting how strong jacob looked in the austria climbing summer series and then as i say both him and adam andrew were happy to tell this story that adam turned up in innsbruck for a training session and jakob realized just how strong adam was and jakob decided he was going to get even stronger than he had been in the austria climbing summer series which is saying something because he looked on top form so him and adam both kind of spurring each other on yeah in recent years the two of them really have begun to push each other in the competitions both in boulder and glead something that is amazing to see in the sport really good for all well him alex adam and others will of course be battling it out in the olympics in less than 12 months time for the reshedule tokyo olympics the thought alex adam and jacob all fancy their chances of getting the very least into the final and probably picking up a medal as well would be ideal there's a lot of time between now and then as well a lot that can be done yeah i'm very quick through the bottom section he's already on to the angle change with the five minutes still to go and a minute elapsed no problems earlier on no misreadings no strange clips quick shake out there though i'm not so sure about that usually he's not feeling pumped at such an early stage maybe just a precautionary shake not a necessary shake oh leaning back on that right hand pinch that's quite impressive good to get a close-up as well because you realize just how bad it is yeah it's not a good one he did find a left toe hook to counterbalance himself but that was that was impressive doing the drop knee though good good remember at 41 the current high mark tommen's set here goes jack i'll be a big surprise we lost him at this early stage yeah it goes for a slightly different method just match those terrible little uh pinch crimps and then went out with the left hand yeah and both feet were over to the right so his body weight was completely across but he was strong enough to find that compression activate it before taking his feet off and then quite casually swing around [Music] so things getting serious now jakob schubert about to pull onto the head while he's got bags of time remain he's climbed so quickly more than half his time remaining and he's about to pull on to the final panel he does know says to the crowd come on where are you there's 5 000 of you out there he must be very aware that adam andra is coming out next though so he's got to push himself he's got to climb and he's got to climb fast [Music] yeah remember of course adam was ranked higher in the qualifying round although him and jakob tied for score in the semi-final round adam was ahead of jakob in the qualifying round and if they were to both top the route it would come down to that so if they get the same score would be adam who won jacob got his leg behind the rope actually won't know that alex magos has just sacrificed a bit of skin for his passion oh and looked in a spot of bother there yeah god went up for that crimp just by you can see the compulsory clipping position i mentioned earlier when you've got that blue cross there'll also be a blue cross next to a hole we just saw it there briefly yeah he looked in his spot a bother their uh yakov [Music] look you see the elbows are out definitely pump but he's got all the time in the world but he goes up with the left hand was it a foot that slipped did he just miss either way jakob schubert is not going to add to his gold medal collection he might still pick up a medal in fact he is guaranteed a place on the podium but it won't be the color he likes let's be really interested to see what happened with yak up there as i say looked in a spot of bother he went up with the right hand a couple of moves earlier and didn't like it at all yeah there was a few it was starting to look difficult a bit lower down i would say jakob schubert though is an athlete who is exceptional that's still pushing on through even when it's a bit of a troublesome time for him look like he enjoyed that back in front of a big crowd and uh domin now has got to just sit there and watch and see whether the world's best rock climber can surpass his high point for the sake of the show we'd love to see a top but uh it's going to be dramatic whatever happens is yak of them so this is a failing of what i've mentioned a few times before that when you're this pumped you forget about your feet and his feet were both below him what he needed to do was put a left heel hook up this is something the dominant amazingly just put went straight into with that left heel take the weight off the hands and push up through those next holes [Music] that is game face you look up game face in the urban dictionary they'll probably have that picture of adam anders standing in the doorway wow looks like he is absolutely in the right place physically and mentally at him he's focused quick smile just reminding himself to enjoy this experience of climbing in front of the big crowd but physically and mentally he looks in a really good place right now and of course the olympics postponed probably wouldn't have been his preferred option but he's just doubled down in the training i spoke to him actually during the lockdown online and it sounded like he was training like his life depended on it well it certainly shows so here we go the brian's on final about to be decided oh confident he's not grabbing that right hold he just clipped off of the left press which is you really have to trust your balance to be able to do that he has got exceptional balance so adam andre amazing climber to watch not just for his sheer physical strength but his technique and his ability to read roots now one thing to keep an eye on of course uh jakob climbed the route quickly adam known for being a quick climber he could absolutely rock it up this thing there don't appear to be any meaningful rests on it you can already see how he attacked those first moves a bit of a foreshadowing of what we might be seeing through the rest of the route pick up a sixth lead world cup win or can adam andra pick up a 15th so much drama here we don't know if there's going to be another world cup this year if there is we don't know where it will be what form it will come in so for one night only we just enjoy watching the world's best climbers on the wall and adam andre is bringing the house down with this finale there's so much tension he doesn't quite have to top the route but more or less i mean if he does that move that dom and fell on he'd more or less have topped the route yeah he's set up perfectly here could not have been any lower oh that could have looked a bit better so strong though that he can just save it without much thought yeah adam adam looks in the kind of physical shape where he can really get away with mistakes and the problem is you don't want to get in the habit of making them no definitely don't want to end up with too many mistakes on this route really had to commit there that looked a little bit touch and go just that blocked hold adam with the big drop knees so flexible he's able to get in positions like that yeah yeah and he's got up to the uh the final panel of the wall in less than two minutes you can see on the clock he's been here a while he's still got 350 to go it's off already such an amazing display of technique and flexibility so adam andre launching into this top section having to really go for things uh this is a move just coming up now where jakob looked in a bit of trouble adam skips straight through that intermediate hole clips in the compulsory clipping position and now he'll head out right and this is the perfect finale to the first ifsc world cup of the season adam andra the last climber out in the men's final hunting down dommen's high point hunting down the top can he read this section right he's reading it to perfection it would seem adam anders straight through surely the top beckons he's been the best climber all weekend one more move to go for adam slaps with the right hand and somehow hangs on to it there is a reason people calling the greatest climber of all time adam andrew wins and brian's on his 15 lead world cup wins for him this run of wins is absolutely extraordinary he only entered three lead world cups last season he won them all he won the european championships he won the world championships he won the overall season title in the world cups and he's won again here in briansson he is the greatest and the crowd that stand everyone every of this 5 000 strong crowd on their feet to applaud that was amazing he looked amazing the qualifiers amazing in the semi-finals and boy did he back it up in the final oh that was something else that performance he kept himself together so well a couple of little slips of mistakes but he just kept going had the strength and surplus to pull through those and then in that last section that was intense he did the same beta as domin but he was strong enough to pull through he put that right foot out which is a desperately high foot but he had the flexibility to lean into the wall to not let go of those holes to get that next crimp on the volume and he throws up to this gas stone and he knows he just has to slap to the top but you look at the angle of his arm and his elbow flared all the way out his such little strength left the fingers are failing and then you see him slap and hold this last hold and it took a second for him to hold on that was some second as well that was uh some second and it's one of those holes where as you slap it the fingers are barely there and you're using that whole right side your whole pictorial muscle to push into the wall to stop it sliding off so impressive trying so hard and making it work and what a statement from adam andre a year out from the olympics who knows it may be the only world cup we get this season and he's just said to the competition you want to win the lead that's what you've got to beat and good luck you will need it adam andra looking absolutely immense takes his place uh next to domin and jacob fabulous women's final followed up by a fabulous men's final what an evening here in brian's and as i say we don't know when we'll be doing all this again have to enjoy it while it lasts and what a show it was if it's the only one we get this year at least it was a great one but what a finale what a finale you got laura igor on the women's final taking the win for a first world cup win you've got adam andre the goat of climbing 15 world cup wins in the lead now as well as four in boulder found the only top of the night on an excellent perfectly set route only two climbers actually falling on the same move it's a big shout out to the route setters but we have the hollywood finish from adam andre found a top absolutely extraordinary that shot the two shots of the winning climbers tonight were actually spectacular lara turning round and roaring at the crowd and adam there seeing all of those muscles in his right arm squeezing beyond belief such a crazy sight to see much as we have had a wonderful evening of entertainment a festival of climbing it is sadly tinged with it a real melancholy because uh it is the first world cup we've had since the passing of loose do rd so before i interview adam andrea before we have the podiums there is going to be a tribute now to lose to rd gonna be uh a presentation of a donation check to climbs against cancer from lucy's parents and uh there'll be speeches the speeches have already been written and they have been given the translations i believe the speeches will be in several different languages but as i say i've got the translations and be able to tell you what is being said [Music] really just a tragic situation i remember when it happened just disbelief really it was not so long ago i'd been watching her make her first boulder world cup final in vail last year we watched her in the youth world championships and uh just personally i remember it was raining hard and i'm not much of a runner but something about the news hit me and i just went out for a big long run it was sort of a desire to feel alive all of a sudden when someone so young is snuffed out and it was a pretty a pretty tough day for the whole of the climbing community this is our first chance to recognize it publicly so our mc christopher out on the stage now with the unenviable task of having to deliver this tribute to the crowd not an easy situation for anyone involved but absolutely fitting that we have a tribute like this as i say there will be a series of speeches including from uh marco scolaris the president of the ifsc we'll hear from now manchua who climbed earlier in that men's final and we'll also hear from lucy's family amongst others pau will also speak and there's also going to be a speech from a climbers against cancer representative as well as i say i do have the translations not of christopher's introduction but of these speeches do my best to convey what is being said [Music] trying to explain to the crowd in the very unlikely event that there are some out there who weren't sure who loose du rd was just explaining the what's going on and the circumstances around this occasion and the first thing that's going to happen in this tribute to loose 2 rd is that a check will be presented from the uh do rd parents to marco scolaris of course climbers against cancer is the official ifsc charity [Music] actually quite hard to watch moments like this for the do rd family but a wonderful gesture for them to try to find something some good to come out of this and uh sheila mccarran receiving the check from the do rds on behalf of climbers against cancer and i believe sheila will give a speech presumably uh in french and i'll do my best to translate in real time and say sheila's saying seven years ago i stood on this very stage next to john ellison the founder of climbers against cancer and there was another big check that night which our charity presented to la league to help fund research and raise awareness the two pillars of our work since then we've become the ifsc's official charity even though we have lost john support from the climbing community remains strong enabling us to continue making many more donations all over the world john used to say that climbers are a family and in times of difficulty a family comes together to help the outpouring of support for lucy's family demonstrates that and the family's decision to pass on a huge part of what they received to climbs against cancer speaks volumes about the kind of people they are thinking of others despite their own pain as an ambassador for climbs against cancer i'm more than honored to accept with our grateful thanks so the president the french federation now pau says lou stuart had a brilliant career ahead of her her 2019 results in the ifsc world cup proved it youth a boulder champion in arco bronze in the european league championship in edinburgh fifth at the vale boulder world cup stage she was one of the biggest potentials representing france hopefully at the 2024 olympic games in paris [Music] tragically destiny decided otherwise the french climbing team will never forget her smile her joada reeve the example she was in our sport and her enthusiasm with her teammates luce was a role model and her guidance is still positively influencing her friends and the whole french team to achieve their personal and sports related goals and now we're here from marco scolaris the president of the ifsc we know that no words can change the tragic destiny that ripped us one of our daughters loose however tonight at the end of this stage in the definition of a new normality we can still feel again the strength of climbing on the competition wall but also through the thoughts of a little bit great champion loose who has gone to the sky [Music] in these hard times for our planet may her words inspire us to make a better world [Applause] um [Music] climbing the men's final he's now going to speak to the crowd it's been over two months now since luc left us but she didn't take everything with her she left a noble legacy in her wake someone i admire said a while ago we are as happy as we allow ourselves to be so let's look at what has happened over the last couple of months the solidarity and support that has come about from the funeral to tonight at this world cup final by way of sears we have witnessed a community of climbers that has never been closer enjoying the simple times some might say ordinary times because we're spending them together losing loose is a wound that will heal over time that time of healing will be different for each of us and it will leave a scar but all the happy times that we spent with her or because of her along with everything she inspired in us those are what we need to keep loose always knew how to find the positives in even the worst situations she never lost her smile and the greatest contribute that we can pay to her would be to follow that example [Music] family four members of lucy's family again speeches are in french now try to translate as best i can in real time for me during training we learn we think we analyze we question and we do what was planned for the session but when it comes to a competition you need to forget all of that just let yourself climb and let your inner self express itself come out of your shell the one people see on instagram or whatever and express yourself with purity for me that's what gives a movement beauty when it is totally natural and instinctive [Music] absolute simplicity that's what i love when i climb my mind is clear free of any confusion i'm focused suddenly the light is brighter sounds richer and i'm overwhelmed by life strength and depth i visualize my route perseverance tenacity freedom commitment release rhythm aggression just at the right time no limits i can feel everything i savour it serenity and the real me what's great is when the action hasn't happened yet i don't focus on the movement i focus on my thoughts they wander to other planets to all sorts of different places sun-drenched landscapes they are filled with the smiles of all the people i love and that's what counts the most that is my strength my driving force smiles of kindness and of joy and moments of happiness i picture myself clipping the anchor and there's a great release i feel a joy that i can't conceal a joy that's so pure so true so strong inside of me that it has to spill out i spread it everywhere to each face to each person that i meet i pass on my love of life and my cheerfulness those are loose du rd's words from june 2020. and they'll now be a one-minute tribute video to loose do rd after the crowd have shown their support and as all the audience members turn to the right to look at the big screen so too we will watch tribute to a great climber [Applause] in a strong field she's perhaps the most promising of the french youngsters certainly up there [Music] packed with good climbers and please do rd one of the very best [Music] here's lu rd here she goes nice no problem on the jump loose to rd first world cup first semi-final first final first stop she is absolutely smashed away through these boulders everything she's top she's flashed no wonder she's emotional she's won the competition on the last boulder she had to flash it to take it out of anyone's hands and she has done it [Music] welcome back to uh brian's son unimaginably tough uh uh lucy's family possible not to be impressed by their bravery and delivering those speeches in the circumstances and a wonderful gesture to make a donation as well to climbers against cancer [Music] wonderful to see 5 000 people including the entire french team and all their support network and everyone from the ifc on their feet applauding in the most difficult of circumstances but i think a fitting tribute from them and from the ifsc [Music] somehow they have to get on with normal life and so do we we do still of course have an interview with adam andre not that competition's seen that important right now um and the podium ceremony yeah it's gonna take a minute to get back into it such an intense and powerful moment there but i think everyone's grateful to be here to experience that dedication so you can see um as we do our best to uh enjoy this evening despite what we've just witnessed at the podium being erected it's almost trite to say it but there's no doubt that if loose do rd had a say in it she would want this evening to be fun she would want the windows celebrated and they will be just waiting uh actually for adam andra to make his way over to our interview area and i will have a chat with him [Music] such a difficult competition to be the winner of yeah it's it's a tricky situation for adam so long off after everything that's gone on really impressive to everyone competing and even more impressive to the people who are doing the best right now yeah adam looked comfortably the best climber really from the second he walked in in brienne so it looked like he meant business i think some climbers probably saw this competition as uh as a bit of a a way back in kind of keep themselves in shape adam saw it as something he really wanted to win right from the start right from the qualifiers i've actually just seen adam on the far side of the stage being brought around so that's uh that bodes well rather track down my mask of course covered rules apply we're only allowed to take them off when we sit down and put our microphones on let's just have another look at the results before i talk to adam uh adam under there you can see top of the route nobody else managed it doman takes second uh jacob third and luca his first world cup final fourth place what a result for him alex magos couldn't back up that brianson win in 2018 ends up fifth and i've been told that adam andre is waiting for me so i am going to go and speak to him and in the female lara agora taking her place at the top she showed it so well in the semi-finals that she had that ability yanya gambra also up there in the top wasn't quite able to match the speed of lara taking that time to rest and fanny gilbert who an athlete often more focused on the bouldering side appearing in third place here really really impressive jessica pills and fourth vita lucan horse fenian athletes chasta callan nina are toad georgia teso and i do believe that adam has on the win but after what we've just seen with the tribute to rd difficult circumstances for everyone yeah very difficult and i think very important that all of this event was organized for the loose as i think it reminds all of us how precious the climbing is for us but how tragic it can be if we don't pay enough attention absolutely and it looked like climbing was precious to you tonight i can't remember seeing you look like you're having that much fun in a on an event oh yeah i could really release all the pressure as soon as i stepped onto the route and i was just having a lots of fun and climbing with that style it kind of almost inevitably also leads to good performance which today resulted in topping out the route being the last climb around was was a dream come true actually i think it never really happened that i would be so pumped that i would be holding the very last hold and almost falling while putting the rope into the last carabiner that was pretty epic you have to tell me about that last move the right hand landed i think it was and it was it felt like there was about 15 minutes before you managed to clip the rope what was it like on board yeah like i got the first inter the last intermediate the shoulder and all of a sudden i got like massive flesh pump in the right arm and i thought it's like there's no way i can do even the last move and i somehow desperately slept onto the last hole somehow like i wanted to crimp it but the fingers went like this and then i wanted to crimp it again but somehow i wasn't able so i just uh lifted my elbow as much as i could do and hoping that i would clip it but if the top would be like clipping the draw and then matching the hold that i wouldn't top it out and when you're in such good form you must want another world cup next week world cup next week i said you must want one next week you're climbing so well right now it seems a shame you can't use your form a bit more uh fortunately in our sport there is some rock climbing so i'll definitely have some rock climbing in my schedule ahead all right great well we look forward to seeing what happens on the rock and hopefully we'll see you to work up soon yeah thank you see you spectacular effort from adam andre there we spoke to him before we already knew how psyched he was for this competition how motivated he was to train hartford and he earned his victory very well deserved for that athlete and let's have one more look over the results of the female final i feel a bit guilty now i said to adam andre i bet you wish it was a world cup next week you didn't quite hear me and thought i said there was a world cup next week you look so excited it's like there's like a taking the taking the dog's favorite toy away no no no no no no no no no great to hear from him though and you could see how psyched adam was i mean just so enthused to be here um and yeah the best climber by a mile all weekend you see it there top for him no one else managed it as he just said in the interview i don't think he thought he was going to manage it until he actually got the rope through the quick draw so he was pretty pumped uh he wouldn't have known it have to say but that moment when he slapped for the top was absolutely fabulous we had to wait 10 months for a world cup this one more than delivered [Music] so we're just uh awaiting the podium ceremonies quarter past 10 here in brienne none of the crowd leaving everyone's saying to watch the podiums believe it will be the women first don't hold me to it always a bit of a delay before the podiums seems to be the way there's a lot to figure out i guess maybe everyone's just too excited to do the jobs oh don't tell me there's appeals i can't deal with any more appeals the stress of the appeals there's a bolt hole somewhere floating through the air it attacked adam adam was just in self-defense yes sir of course it will be the the women first what stories we've had on both sides here in brian's son laura agora first world cup win adam andrade just showing us why he deserves his legendary status so here come the medalists on the women's side of course masks back on covert 19 measures being followed as you would expect and as they should be slightly different podiums ceremonies actually no kisses on the cheeks during the presentation everything done as much of a distance as possible of course not the circumstances laura agora would have wanted to claim a world cup win her first world cup win but you're gonna take him and she definitely looked the best climber over the course of four routes two in the qualifiers and one in the semi-finals and there is uh fanny g bear looks absolutely delighted with the bronze medal and i think just pointed to the sky it's a loose du rd emotions running pretty high here for all concerned i have to say she is a happy woman it's a huge result fanny but as i say it's tinged with sadness yanya ganbrek meanwhile adding to her enormous silverware collection it's got a work cut out now there's a few young guns hard to imagine yanya is the older hand but laura agora coming through chen sir coming through and still the familiar threats of the jesse pilces of this world out there yanya's not going to have things all her own way in the years to come but she's going to pick up a few more gold medals that's for sure but for tonight the gold medal will go for the first time in her career to laura rigora the biggest smile in brianne's son [Music] presented with her trophy and as you can see it seems that all 5 000 members of this crowd stayed on uh to watch the podium ceremonies to listen to the tribute to luce du rd and it's a tribute to the crowd as well thank you to them for staying on and playing their part laura gory your winner in brienne and here is the national anthem of italy so [Music] so [Music] your medalists in brian's in the women's final an emotional fantasy bear yanya gambre and laura regora on the top step and ever so briefly social distancing goes out the window it would seem just briefly to celebrate an amazing moment one that laura agora will never forget that's for [Music] sure so as the women make their way off the stage it is the turn of the men multiple world cup wins for all the climbers on these podiums no one picking up their first win although i have to say it adam andra looked as happy as laura agora yeah absolutely jumping for joy and that's now if my maths is correct which probably isn't uh six in a row for adam four world cup wins in a row of events he's entered and a world championship and a european championship in lead so the last six lead events he's entered he has won which by any measure is pretty good very good going to maintain that focus and to still be the most select person in the entire arena right now i mean he's he's physically strong he's got the mentality i reckon if he sticks with this climbing it's definitely going so you've got a future in the sport this andre lad yeah i feel like he'd be quite good i feel like he's got potential like laura igor you know he's just waiting to tap into that potential he's finally doing it [Laughter] i think the question really with adam andre is just what can't he do when he when he does finally i don't know about retire but as age catches up with him as it does with everyone is what will the numbers be indoors and out on competition walls on big walls and sport climbs boulders when he does finally slow down what will the numbers read crazy thought what's going to stop [Music] so in this craziest of years only some things change dormant jacob and adam still picking up the medals the same rate they always were [Music] dominant's got a battle if he wants to get to the olympics but the two men on the right there jacob and adam are likely to feature a high at the business end of that event in tokyo next year [Music] jakob schubert picks up the bronze medal looks pretty happy with it i don't know if he despite his successes in the austria climbing summit series it's so hard to know where you're at against world level competition and looks absolutely delighted with the bronze medal would obviously be would love to be standing a meter or so to the right early once but another medal nonetheless in the glittering career of one of the great [Music] once again picking up another medal and looks absolutely delighted i actually saw down men in innsbruck a week or so ago and he said he didn't really have much of an idea like to say about where his form was where that left him against everyone else and i think if you'd offered him a week ago a silver medal in the brienza world cup he would have bitten your hand [Music] off [Music] no question who the strongest climb has been here in branson though from the second he pulled onto the first qualifying route he's looked like the favorite to win he's delivered in the qualifying the semis and the finals adam andra your winner in brian's on it's 15 lead world cups and the amazing thing is that is only one of adam's most impressive statistics not the most impressive statistic he is the greatest rock climber on the planet we have to be honest and say is there anyone close across all the disciplines of competition boulder lead big wall you name it [Music] he's the top the podium in branson he's the top climbing's podium worldwide to celebrate his win we'll hear the czech national anthem [Music] [Music] huh [Music] [Music] there you see it jacob schubert dominance graphics and adam andre that is it from us here in briennesson for one weekend only we got a bit of normality back we finally saw the world's best doing battle on a lead wall and it was absolutely wonderful we don't know when we'll be able to do it again we hope it's not too long but in the meantime thank you so much for tuning in it's been a pleasure to watch what a final here in the south of france let's try and do it again soon [Applause] foreign [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] so [Music] [Music] so [Music] [Music] you

Channel: International Federation of Sport Climbing

Views: 640,076

Keywords: Sport, climbing, ifsc, 2019, live, streaming, replay, rock, competition, champions, combined, olympic, qualifications, france, toulouse, tournefeuille, qualifiers, lead, olympics, boulder, bouldering, speed, men

Id: aurno28Q4cA

Length: 185min 2sec (11102 seconds)

Published: Sat Aug 22 2020