🇬🇧 IFSC World Championships Moscow 2021 || Paraclimbing finals

[Music] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Music] [Applause] [Music] hello and welcome to the ifsc para climbing and climbing world championships tonight it's the turn of the para climbers to face the spotlight try some super hard routes all in order to win one of our medals and hopefully be crowned world champion my name is matt groom and i am privileged to be joined tonight by a man who i'm counting as a friend by now sebastian depka from team germany sebastian welcome back hi matt i'm so happy to be here with you again it's going to be an exciting finals uh lots of categories lots to talk about and if you're new to power climbing well hello and welcome you're about to witness something pretty special here tonight in moscow sebastian straight up on the screen right now we've just seen women's bee category lots of different categories that the athletes are put into during the classification phase yeah the idea of classification is that we have so many different kinds of disabilities it should not be the case that at the end of the day a visually impaired athlete is climbing against someone who has for example an amputation or lymph deficiency so the idea of classification is to bring athletes together who have a similar type of impairment and who can so to say reach even with different deficiencies or disabilities the same let's say type or style of climbing well let's talk about those categories starting off with b on screen you can see men's b all the categories are split with a number one two and three one being the most serious three being the least serious b is for visually impaired rp neurological or physiological impairment a u amputee upper limb or a lymph deficiency an al amputee lower limb or limb deficiency now sebastian for someone who hasn't heard all those categories before it can be a bit overwhelming but we'll be talking people through it as we go won't we yes we will step by step we will introduce the sport classes and then we'll explain all the details so now we're going to start with the b um sport classes um here you see the root um here we have um from italy um and from romania women and men now climbing at the same time um you see their sight guide standing behind them and they will guide them through the route and talking to them by a headphone these shots were from earlier on this evening the athletes had a moment to observe the routes uh in the same way as we see in our world cup competitions they get to check the route out with their site guides they get to look at it and there's not all be athletes in this category this is all the athletes we're seeing right now inside finals exactly the sport classes will start one by one um sometimes we're going to have two climbers at the same time um yeah but we will follow the action and give you all the details sebastian i hate to bring it up qualifying was the other day uh you're here for a reason with me uh how was it out there uh on the stage well i successfully made it to the commentary box by not making it to the finals to be honest for me that's a success sebastian it is amazing to have you here but just talk about the qualifying routes because all these athletes had to go through the qualification phase to get here how tricky was it the last two days where we had the qualifications in the other arena here in moscow and the roots were not that much overhanging the site was pretty technical in comparison to the rest what we had um during the season and it's broken and brian rio so far so we saw lots of let's say unexpected falls for me as well um and to be honest i don't like this style of climbing volumes balances slabs that's not my style i like more powerful overhanging walls and uh well that's competition climbing sometimes you're good sometimes not and yeah once once you've done a few competitions i think you can get more and more relaxed if things go wrong so the first qualifier route for me was um i ended up i think fifth so made it up three quarters the way up the wall but the second i fell very low just after three meters and well those are just character enforcing experiences you do yeah exactly that's what i say every time i fall off a route i just wanted to bring something we saw up on stage because frankly one of the best things about the last couple of days is that they've stripped the speed wall and we've got a lead wall on the speed well look at that on the left love that yeah exactly because the right wall is quite overhanging i think the middle part is around about 30 degrees and the root setters love it because the speed wall is 50 meters five degrees overhanging so there we can expect a bit of the style what we saw in qualifications and well i know you know matt if i see this route i i pretty i know pretty much that i wouldn't have gone so far on that route because it's definitely not my style what you see here the volumes and the traversing aspect here has to fit 100 together so if you missed something there get down all right well the light show has started here in moscow i'm still loving that shot on screen artfully decorated by someone there you can see the carabiners but can you imagine being an athlete in this moment they're standing right now backstage about to face the crowd the music comes on and their heartbeats will be going through the roof the pressure ramps up a gear amazing hey sebastian are currently dancing in the commentary box just wanted to give you a little insight it's our warm up it's wow it's sent each world championships there so today trying to do the next next level they have stepped it up here really setting the scene for you hope you enjoyed this back at home welcome to moscow for the para climbing world champions ships if you missed the beginning my name is matt groom i'm here with sebastian depka and we will be talking you through all the action here tonight [Music] [Applause] so sebastian have you ever seen a eurovision before you know the singing competition eurovision sun contest yeah well that's not my expertise i feel like we have to explain this like in the eurovision song contest it's all a bit conceptual isn't it we've got climbers on the lead wall we've got some kind of a balanced feature that makes sense in the middle fastest on the speed wall and strong is on the board strongest on the bouldering wall today we combine them in another way well tonight that speedwall isn't about fastest it's about balance and precision and skill because it has become our lead route for the rp1 for example and there we're gonna have also a wheelchair cameras and for them campusing and it's all about speed for them so light show done it's time to get on with the action here in the stadium the lights come back up climbing world championship and we start the presentation from the group p1 so it's time to present the athletes from japan should be the first athlete onto the stage to join us up next from romania gentlemen i actually went from impaired climbing with i was blindfolded she was helping me out and he laughed a lot that's my main memory how was the experience it was uh terrifying to be honest uh i you know climbing a world cup standard route for me is difficult anyway doing it whilst blindfolded very very tricky your phone lost i did feel lost i didn't know where i was to be honest it was it was tricky there is jessie duftin on stage a gentleman has climbed it's hard to keep track of him but up to e3 trad i think yeah he's done amazing things outdoor keeping the old man of hoyt what legend he is and he lead it on lead play some countries etc he did indeed yeah he led it he calls it uh no sight climbing something like that instead of on-site climbing funny guy he has a here's a really good sense of humor he really does and we'll see all of our athletes see you next [Music] from austria coming there abigail robinson great britain next one is abigail roberson from great britain it's great to see great britain of course they've been missing for a lot of competitions because of covid so good to see them here in moscow definitely also same about team japan there's grammar coming out 14th spat space also from spain his teammate will join him next [Applause] we're just going to see the presentation of the first category categories of athletes so that is great for women b1 for men and b2 for men if you missed my little introduction at the beginning b stands for visually impaired and there's numbers one two and three one is the most severe impairment three is the least severe impairment but sebastian let's applause again i always feel a bit tricky when talking about severity of impairment because even if you are a three category your level of vision is still very very low isn't it yeah you won't get a driver license with that and i'll be one athletes by the way they will clamp blindfolded so that they're all on the equal level b1 athletes for example they are not able to to see something more than let's say about the perception of if it's day or night so they cannot see if there's a hole for example on the wall or not so they would climb blindfolded to make it fair for everyone have the same conditions and the others are grouped b2 and b3 are grouped by the rest of vision which is left and the definition is done with the visual field so the range of what you see in degrees from the left to the right and the visual security so how sharp and how far can you see now long before i turned up in moscow i was you know lazing it back in france it everyone was hard at work classifying doing all that work explain to me about the classification process that took place here in moscow what does that involve the classification process is um well the assessment of the classification process is done here right in front of the competition before the competition the athletes will submit their medical data um when they apply for their license so those medical records are checked long before the competition so when the athletes actually come here to the competition um the classifiers already know their background and so it's then up to check to recheck or to confirm what has written on paper and doing extended checks and then taking your first decision on which athlete is going to be climbing in which sport class and can things change in a season so can you start off with one ranking or classification and then can that change throughout sure um there is uh our classifier team has not just a sport class it's also a so-called sport class status so now it's getting even more complex matt i hope you can stop keeping up just about keeping up yep so which then gives an indication on how let's say secures this decision of this sport class so for example um a visually impaired athlete um will get a fixed review date for example like of 2025 that means in the year 2025 before the first competition this athlete has to undergo um the examination um again to see if something changes because um some of those well everyone is new and so many many athletes have a fixed review date um which will then sort of say give an update of if there were some changes um or not so it's quite a fluid process then it's always being athletes being reassessed reassessed things can change throughout the athlete's career and sometimes even during a season or time period yeah it can happen there is not just fixed review days let's say four years ago for the physical impairments uh it's more likely that it's than mostly having fixed review data or in next year so for them it's also sometimes very nerve-wracking because um there's not just um not just maybe another examination in the future well the goal is always to get confirmed starters that means the classifier have seen you on the wall they know the decision was good and this person fits into the sport class and also for example if um conditions change over time classification can also change so for example if uh an athlete has an accident for example or if the health condition gets worse you can ask for another examination and then it will be re-evaluated if this person should get into another's podcast well we're about underway here we have sho ita that he is on screen right now show iter i mean i'm looking his stats right now he's done four para climbing competitions and he's walked away with the gold every single time highly decorated athlete so we're expecting big things from that man there interesting fact he's climbing first so that means he was not the best in qualification and that's also what we saw due to the different uh style of fruit setting this time there were quite some unexpected um results and also favorites missing in uh in the finals here so now you see the side guide showing him the start of the route he's blindfolded so he's 100 relying on the information that his side guide is giving to him something i noticed when i tried this on was the amount of trust that you need to have you just swap over to oxana for confirmation for the judges before he gets underway let's go back to show item there he is and sebastian two ropes what's the purpose of that well it's not two ropes but the rope is well it's two robes isn't it so what's the purpose um so the world is very overhanging and they've climbed on top of for safety reasons and if you would just have one chopped rope coming from the top you would fall on the ground if you fall in the very beginning so he's already let's say four to five meters up the wall and if he would fall there he would swing out to the back and flip the stage for sure that's why the root set has mount on a second anchor in the lower part and then that's the reason why you have two ropes and overhanging and if you're wondering why it's so loud the stadium in this moment drops completely into silence myself and sebastian we're up in the commentary box way above this protected by glass walls they can't hear us but the audience needs to be silent to give the sight guide the opportunity of clear instruction sometimes you use a radio but japanese teams seem to favor this method of just yelling up the wall definitely i mean it's like it's it's i always say like um keep it stupid and simple so there's one technical aspect less in the game which can fail so we have seen had um headphones falling off athletes because they are they ripped their blindfold by accident or for example batteries battery failures and um well it's up to them to decide what they want to do the good thing is that we get more insights into terrorism if you spoke japanese we'd know exactly what my mom was saying uh i don't currently is it going to be distracting being very loud foreign he on the right yeah on the on the on the left you see here um and they're also using no headphone that's definitely something we need to consider i talked about this to athletes before because i thought it must be incredibly distracting if you hear something else but in this case russian versus japanese i think oksana is not able to understand what the japanese guide is saying that is true so it should work out for them we'll see how it turns out so both athletes far up show now through the middle section of this route he now has to traverse all the way to the right on fairly good holds but remember it has to be so precise when you do this and any mistake is just amplified because you have to hold on for that much longer the thing i noticed when i did this sebastian is just the jug you think is a jug isn't a jug because you're in it in the wrong place oh you're missing a good foothold just by one centimeter and you're thinking like oh this is nothing exact and actually it's not a problem at all well these guys are far stronger than i am show now into almost into the head will section pausing a little bit stretching out with the left hand in order to try to get that next so the side guys announces in a way that um he's giving the orientation where the clock system so for example he would now say like one o'clock good job then he'll say for example okay cross over let's see if he does it um the feet for experienced athletes he doesn't have to say too much about them because they can remember about the placements this route about 7a plus in terms of sport grades and we see oxana coming down there obviously cfr is off the wall so we'll see a replay of that second there you also see the two ropes here not to the right swings to the back but to the side let's watch a replay this moment he's about a third of the way up the route and just a foot pop there so a slip but ito is nearing sho aita is nearing the top of this route this was described by a classifier i spoke to as a heinous root and he has made such good work of it there's a top for him what a performance i mean he's a four-time gold medalist i kind of expected that but what a start to our competition so i think root says might get a bit nervous now because what they want is a clear separation so what they don't want is but we have seen in recent competition celebration i'm not sure who's more psyched site guide or athlete and the actual guy also has to be able to climb this this this great because he has to be able to to read the route to to think about it they get video demonstrations by the way um also in the warm up zone for them so they get an idea of what the route is about but at the end of the day they can always decide to do a different video look at laptop from show he knew he got it latched it turned and waved to our crowd we've got a nice selection of people into the audience crowds being allowed in unlimited numbers [Applause] so next up razer van nedu from romania on the speed oh sorry no on the overhang so gazavan is also i would say kind of a legend he's not just doing competition climbing he's also doing outline climbing so recently he climbed mount elbros i think it's a peak more than 5000 meters high so they do pretty um interesting stuff there with a team in romania up matching so those who can understand romania now get an insight on how the announcing of calls and photos is working here as the b1 athletes have no vision left they're 100 relying on their um on their um on their side guide and yeah you see razvan heavily strapped up left hand yes what happened to be honest i don't know we'll have to find that out we'll uh we'll let you know as we see but you can see might be having a little injury there but it doesn't stop him from climbing it's quite steep there already so um he must be very dedicated to say i go for it it's always difficult to know quite how steep these walls are when you look at it from this camera angle but do you check out well i said check out the quick drawers there aren't actually any trolls on the wall but trust me when you're standing at the bottom of that wall and you look up you cannot see the top very very overhanging and that speed will be watched now as sebastian said earlier five percent overhanging [Music] getting past the point roxanna fell on before calm from the sight guy just talking her through these moves it's a little bit of a traverse out right and if you switch from these orange volumes to crimps you have to be very precise when going out right definitely by the way matt did you yell at your comment and your at your side guys when you tried it no i was too busy uh being pumped i was so i've never been that pumped to my life maybe we would see it at the end when when things get more pumpy and less controlled um maybe we see some kind of emotions they're picking up because it's it's quite interesting i i also did some uh visually impaired athletes guiding um in our team and it's trust me if you if you fall one route you're mentally pretty exhausted because it's it's pretty stressful to do it at the right in the right way and um yeah you're feeling with the athlete you you feel the pump you feel the struggle and well kathy can always say no it was me it was a side guy who messed it up right that's true but that relationship is important isn't it between them because you have to trust your site guide definitely definitely and he also also the side guard has to adapt to this style of climbing he has to estimate of what his athletic athlete is capable of doing can he do this move this way will he need another beater in this place so in the best case they always climb together and a good team working together and yeah the athletes you see here are well trained and also the side guides are well good let's see what maybe we can check out yeah he's halfway through now in this big volume section before he she starts to traverse to the right on the black volumes now pinching with the left might get a bit okay [Music] so working hard now our microphones on the wall picking up the athletes breathing as they come through and that will be a feature of this world championships and now he started to scream though he's won bronze before he's won silver before how much would that man love to make it a gold here tonight in moscow his last medal came in this year with that silver oh so nearly dropped that match and finally comes down to the ground so i think our route set a worry perhaps still alleviated so nedu comes down he'll be happy with that what a hard fight and we lose nadia as well so two athletes done on both routes remember me and sebastian do not have control of the camera angles so we'll be calling the action as we see it with you guys thank goodness we haven't sebastian we definitely messed that up well and i mean we try multitasking but i would say we are already open we've done enough of that today already we're surrounded by sheets of paper currently the organization here in the coventry booth uh so this was the moment she got through the bottom let's call it the bottom crux and then high up on the wall little tiny side pulls and a pinching and what do we see there and this is on the final third maybe six moves to go i'll be getting pumped out a little bit well and no feet anymore for her there well here's all those volumes out there are not that good so rather than they do here those holes a bit better but well the angle gives you quite a good pump remember these athletes can't just speed through a section they literally don't know what's coming next and therefore you have to save something in the tank all the time and a jug that you think is a jug especially from the ground as the sight guide when you get up there can be different it's adaptive climbing especially if you don't hit it right so here we have edit from austria being introduced what a performance she had in brienne song oh yes interviewing her after her medal and i mean she i don't think she could quite believe that she was standing there in fact she was over the moon definitely definitely the beginning of the routes are quite easy it's intended this way so that the athletes get a good start and the difficulty progresses over the route so in comparison to a commercial gym route competition routes are way less i would say the same from uh bottom to top also traverses like this something you will not find in a commercial gym because this would actually block at least three lines so to say so for them it's also sometimes difficult to get experience with climbing like this also for example big volumes like this is also something for example which are not easy to find in commercial gym roots because they block big parts of the of the wall and well in gyms normally people want to have many roots in the same line so artem is looking for a heel or a high high foot finds it now and he's got a rock up goes up with the right hand he's continuing the uh the craze i've seen more and more of which is socks and climbing why not i don't know i just i'm judging you a little bit why is it wrong i don't know because it's what i'm used to probably look it's sweaty oh no it depends on the size if i've got very tight shoes where it's absolutely most impossible i go without but if the shoes are a bit older and get wider then i prefer wearing socks because then you get again the tight feeling in them it's all right to be wrong now he's through the first third of this route nicely and the root set is it has to be said stunning routes they've created here so much work going into they were testing these roots right after the very last second and now starting to struggle though going up the right might need to bring the left up really here also interesting our classifiers also translates the qualifications and also final routes and it's so good to see that route setters and classifiers are working more and more together because the route setters know our athletes quite well they've seen them over years they know the style they climb the way they climb just lost art and there you can see them adjusting adjusting adjusting i think he was as much as a body position as that hold because it was a side pull and just needed to get that way over to the right so an early fall for him that will leave him in third place at the moment one athlete to go in men's b1 let's see a replay of this this was the first couple of moves perhaps never quite settled in this bump you can see him sliding down adjusting adjusting perhaps needed to flip his bodyweight over to the right but edith charneka is still on the wall halfway through for her and this is the volume section sebastian that we know is the crux of the route yeah almost three minutes to go in total she has six minutes so i would say she's safe and time wise timeout is something which occurs very often in visually impaired climate because the climbing style is a bit slower but what being quick and efficient is also something you need to master so next athlete will be jesse duffton out onto the stage so jesse duftin we chatted about him earlier he's a gentleman who i've personally known for quite a few years now and something that perhaps sets him apart from some of the other visually impaired athletes we're seeing is that man does blind trad you know about trad climbing it's all about placing gear trying to keep yourself safe we'll talk about more about jessie in a minute here is edith she's through the first green volume but quite confident coming closer to the top there you see the last part of this route let's see what she can do here chalking up that black volume is quite good to stand on almost flat i think suddenly she needs to come into crooks here first now we need to bring that right hand through so for those who understand german can now follow their comment the site guide the austrian coach announcing so she's hesitating a bit of a knee bar there maybe so now he's trying to climb her down a bit a minute left on the clock she has got time and there his confirmation of that minute bumping the left up nothing to stand on though and then gets that crimpy hold locks it off very good the cross through loses that moment what a performance from eden job done for her yeah and 30 seconds left so to say good timing i would say good pace let's see how it turns out at the end so edith will return to the ground jesse duff them is in action on the right hand side for the moment we have one more athlete to go see it let's see where she fell what a performance from her easily through the big orange volumes down low that volcano style holds everything got harder from then on in it becomes a crimpy section and there it is with the first one that was the move just before she felt and then with the reach up with the left starting to get pumped and just missed it too far to the left and the coast said it's again 12 o'clock but if you get pumped you get less and less precise so it happens there is jesse duftin in action so as i was saying he climbs no sight as he calls it but on-site as we know it trad climbs therefore he starts at the bottom puts in all the gear on roots like i am bad enough a place in gear and i can see do you place a cam when you can't see the thing the bravery of that man is ridiculous especially how do you how do you check if it's not over camped if it's the right place am i what about the rock which is left and right to the crack i'm putting it in is it stable enough to hold the load if i'm falling off there it's a decision i would say it's how are we actually making it i don't know so here we see abigail robinson from great britain her first competition this year as team gb did not make it to any competition so far good to have them back in place because they have got very very very good athletes in their teeth look at the confidence through that first section absolute trust in the moves and her site guide and she's wearing the radio you can see it coming down to her waist there up to her ear so no shouting this time the british side guide would just be speaking into his microphone his radio let's see if they are picking up can pick up this sound from her so you see a totally different speed here in that right yeah fast flowy climbing that applause for jesse has come down back to him and said there he is a bit disappointed fell fairly low on that route they're not what jesse would have seen let's watch a replay in a second of that moment from him let's see what happened let's start from jesse in the route meanwhile abigail cruising safely through the mid part of the route there was jess's fault he went up for hold number one then adjusted slightly to the next one didn't quite get it that was enough to spit him off down to the ground well i think he is also in mind that this is not all he doesn't claim it it's true he's got he's got lead e4 next so abigail incredible abigail is just taking the moment to rest on that big black volume before this tricky sloping section and this route changes in characteristics you go from the crimps she's just had into this slopey section so your forearms i'm curling so on the overhanging route we now have the men b2 starting this is uh guillermo pellegrin from spain um the b2 category has vision left so that means they're not climbing blindfolded like abigail here so there's vision left they are not 100 relying on the information given by their site guide so abby guides to three nothing quite relaxed i would say yeah abigail cruising through she's a couple of holds away from the top here three minutes 28 plenty of time are we gonna see her top from abigail now up with the right foot and she will be taking her time and she'll climb that bottom section so fluidly so quickly yeah b2 has vision left and then you see the top that's it so abigail comes down and that group she was in was mixed we saw two b1 athletes at the beginning and then b2 uh in the final two why are these categories put together like that yeah the idea behind is the concept of merging merging means you you combine different sport classes into one into one because the minimum criteria are not fulfilled for world championships you need six athletes from four different countries into a sport class to open it so for example if b1 only has three and b2 let's say has four then b one will be merged into b2 there's a complex scheme which explains the way the merging is done and so then you end up with a sport class which is mixed but also a mixed sport class is better than having no competition at all so in this case yeah not a perfect system but the best thing we can get to give everyone a chance to climb exactly exactly the concept of merging is also existing in other power sports and i always say it's better to have an unfair competition instead of no competition and as we're starting still in some categories with very few athletes you need you need a system to grow the sport you cannot start with one athlete if they never get the chance to compete how do you show that they're actually there it is working so griemo now on the wall he has less than three percent of his sight less the rest is peripheral so the peripheral view means he's not seeing in the center of his eye um he's seeing more and in the corner so to say and for climbing this is quite good because um so guillermo comes down because we're talking about that he is b2 category and everyone in this group of men's men's b2 is b2 so a very level playing field in this part of the competition definitely definitely so this perfect view that he has left means that for example he sees something in the upper part of his eye and also in the lower part and for climbing this is uh normally it's better than having a central view so that means like central view means you're for example just as if you were looking through a long pipe because if you can see your hands and your feet for example for the same time you're in a way better position in compression for example if you have with a this pipe view you have to scan the whole wall and so to say find the high stack or you then need the needle so to say the sweet spot of the hole you're aiming for so we'll have a little brief pause here that speed will come out of action for the time being as we stick with the overhang as we get through the men's category joining us welcome to power if b2 climbing the para climbing world championships and sebastian let's look at the results here though from women's b2 we watched her just now abigail robertson right up top with the top fantastic gold medal for her edith scheinnecker in second place 40 plus nadia predict in bronze sebastian i was chatting to some athletes earlier about what it means to be a world champion and why this event is a bit different because look we've seen multiple world cups this year we've seen an olympics this year but definitely the ring of world champion that's something special isn't it definitely the world championships only every two years while we have multiple world cups every year so while the the title of the world champion lasts for two years and that's quite something and also the world championships are always way bigger events in comparison to a world cup you see here athletes from all around the world and it's nice to see the family back together first confirmation of b1 sho ita we saw him climb first he's added another gold medal to his tally five now for him but meanwhile on the wall that is simon franco and what season he's having gold in innsbruck fourth in brienne's song raul also has the peripheral view so he's nothing see he has no vision in his center but he's around um you see that those athletes are way quicker than the ones who have no vision left more precise you see they look in the direction um they are then aiming for with their hands and feet for example starting out here [Music] you can see him glancing upwards very limited vision from him and he's getting instructions from his site guide in his ear you can see the radio sticking out that headband [Music] the spanish team it's so good to see the mountain force here in moscow as well very recognizable that that red and yellow uniform they have you can see them from miles away absolutely love it so he cruises through the black and yellow section good pace four and a half minutes left on the clock but i think time won't be an issue here it's not a pump which is the problem in my opinion so this hook saves him some energy it gives him a moment to pause that's a good hole there that high high heel hook in order to rest oh just bumps to here what trust that is a dynamic heel hook bump up with the right like he knew where the hole was and it's it's quite long so it's good that routers offer these possibilities so also dynamic force dynamic moves this season where i thought this is never possible i mean also the qualifications that did a part of that and everyone tried it statically it didn't work only those who tried dynamic could stick the move lesson for us all that if in doubt jump jump but not just jump somewhere while they jump somewhere they don't see it so that's my problem i just jump it never works out for me so raul halfway through now nearing the head wall of this route where it starts to get vertical again and changes from overhanging to a more vertical section oh you can hear the side guide no no no from him halting him before he made the mistake but perhaps that cost him dear sometimes it's good to trust your side guide and not following your own idea there that's the question how how strong are you in this in this moment to say i don't care just do whatever i want are you strict defaulting uh follow the instructions it's tricky isn't it and that relationship's so important the trust that needs to be there as it is between the two of them you can see them smiling as they came down so i've got that under clink nicely underneath the yellow the volume put the screw on [Applause] this was nearing the head wall there's the vertical section of that wall i tell you what this makes uh this makes uh show aita's top it's so impressive i'm the only athlete to get up there definitely and and he was he was climbing i mean he was a b1 so climbing blindfolded also the b1s sometimes are congenital so that means they carry their impairment from birth and those athletes mostly develop a so-called seventh sense um which give them a possibility to yeah so i have a perception that we cannot understand the artists who say i can hear the road but not here just the cars on the road but i can hear the direction they're going um and that's that's something hard to understand but they have so to say that this seventh sense helps them it's also the the question of how quick are you able to process the visual information that you get so your visual processing capabilities also decide on your climbing style for example he has vision left but the question is if he looking if he's looking this direction is he directly able to identify okay this is a volume this is a hold this is where i'm aiming to or is he does he need some time to to to process this in his brain to realize what's there and that can also result in different styles of climbing but this time so to say this delay cannot be measured so that's some kind of unfairness in there which cannot be eliminated same about contrast it's also something that our visually impaired classifiers cannot measure in a good way because it's very easy to cheat so we just say to the root setters choose some good colors good contrast no grey holes on grey walls please and they did good no question about it it is a great route he struggled a little bit through the bottom section he's very experienced his last medal came in innsbruck this year sorry 2018. she hasn't competed for a while it's nice to see him back on the big stage for the world champs what can he do with this route four and a half half minutes just under on the clock and he's gone past that point so he also has a peripheral view and he told me that for example he's not seeing things to the side he only sees a bit up and a few corners in the in the lower part where he's able to to get visual information from so um it's so interesting to see what they're doing so that's something you can also try at home just um go in the in the gym climb the route and then you try it again but with closed eyes and you would see it's a totally different route it is a different world isn't it and the amount of pump you have to control as he's doing here but look at that climbing style straight arms relying on those big back muscles the biceps in order to hold him on now he comes up struggling to find the feet there's no real opportunity to rest he's coming to perhaps the biggest hold on the route in a minute he's shaking out at every opportunity here more than three minutes left and not halfway up the wall so if he wants to make the top he definitely needs to pick up pace let's think back his teammate climbed the route to the top completely blind visual perception so to say left for me it's incredible totally incredible what these athletes are doing [Music] so hanging suspended above the stadium it takes a moment to chalk up again talking to his side guide there the difficulty is according to the root set is about seven eight plus so imagine climbing a china plus blind can't i don't know what would happen a very quick competition like you did in brian right apparently sorry i think it was more like 6c plus i didn't get to the top of it as well but normally you could be able to climb 60 clowns i hope so yeah i hope so usually i've heard you can yes usually yes but yeah the difference it made was incredible just as i said the right hand pump that i developed was incredible and imagine you were able to observe the route fully advanced also you did the commentary exactly i talked through every form of that so you have seen your mata for time exactly i was at a very i had a big advantage on this did you recognize where you actually were because you have seen it multiple times no no it was an experience so he's halfway up a minute and a half left and sebastian as you said time becoming a factor here it looks like he's got insurance for days as he hangs on that wall but a and a half is not enough time i don't think to get this done no um visual impaired athletes they're also training the way that they they train to to stay long to rest also on steep uh on tiny holes to to to sort of say being able not to stress out if it's not working the first try if he's hanging there and he's searching for the next one maybe coming back and reorientating um it's like just climbing half of your speed you normally do and then not being able to see what you're actually grabbing amazing stuff and the depth of the japanese squad in all aspects of our sport is so impressive it's so nice to see team japan back here on stage they had struggle in terms of traveling to other competitions so yeah nice to have you back with the family look at the romanian route set ahead going through the moves any of that was conscious what he was doing there just really deeply involved in this competition as is everyone as a stadium it's a focus for everyone watching right now so 10 seconds left this could be the first time today three two one are we going to see the visually impaired thing they do where they don't come down from the wall because sometimes they just want to continue yes i i think he will so the judges will now call him down okay okay he he accepted fair enough done we've seen athletes in the past we just ignored it and then topped the route i mean the judges won't like it and the officials who are taking care of timing and schedule also no they hate it but they hate it but i quite like it i do don't tell the officials well we have one athlete left on this uh visually impaired category you could pretend i had the the headphone in my ears i couldn't hear you i'm sorry yeah exactly exactly we'll shut the door they won't come barge again look at that moment there from the romanian coach so much support for a rival so i finally laughed out we'll be richard slocock [Applause] well you said rivals but actually most of them are really good friends because from my experience when i came here to the athlete family so to say i was not the exception i mean our coach was the exception the only one who's not disabled in some way but we accept him so richard has immaculate dystrophy so he has no central vision first note is probably in 2013 2016 he was registered as blind climber of font as well fun and blowing area just south of paris that one fact alone into this man has a test because it is a great bouldering area so he's led up to 7a before sebastian we know this route 7a plus so this will be at its absolute limit can you imagine clipping quick draws and not being able to see exactly where they are like imagine you're trying to hit the the bolt with the with the quick draw and missing it again and again and again i don't want to imagine it's not a nightmares so richard making good progress here through the bottom section fingers a little taped up and qualified the other day and is some kind of teddy bear maybe he wants us to find out and talk about it huh i want to know so richard if that was your intention it worked no it worked he comes into the side pulls now flowy through that part you see the rope going behind his arms that's actually not such a good idea because if you fall you might end up in a bad situation and it also can happen that the rope is going around your back depending on how you turn but now as he's going to the left he's safe bronze breon song 2019 he'd love to add another one to that collection sebastian said earlier that ring of being a world champion is something truly special we had the speed the other night so do go and catch up on that if you missed it tomorrow well it's all about women's bouldering right now para climbing is in action and it is it's quickly become this year my favorite competition to commentate on oh i love to hear that it's true and not through any sort of you know inspirational thing i just think it's totally badass to be honest i didn't pay matt for saying no it's true i just think these guys these men and women who are competing here tonight are just incredible athletes and for me that's what sport is about it's about watching people perform at their limits and at a level and this is to me what paragliding is all about definitely i think it's so inspiring that in my opinion all of those athletes here are winners they're winners because they're here we've heard the stories what they've gone through war terrorism diseases accidents some of them could have been dead already so and well they made their way and they're here on stage so everyone who's just entering this competition already has won his own battle and now they're doing one on top and he's absolutely fighting that power screen there as he made that move up battling here on the final section oh cutting loosen going down three minutes left on the clock [Applause] team gb great performance from them that is the end of our visually impaired category we'll get an update on the scores in a second you don't like that satisfied with his performance but wow so let's see those moments that lion tattoo on his arm flexing as his biceps strain against that overhang big moves throughout from him outright to the slopers there you see there is precision in his roots is what he's actually aiming for in comparison to the b ones they're always like hitting and trying and searching stretching over the wall so shoes is also something that though the athletes need way more than others so let's see a confirmation of the b2 for the man first place 40 plus richard slocott we just watched him 38 plus and raul simon franco 38 plus guillermo in fourth place with 17. so a tricky route only one top we saw for that we'll move on from the visually impaired category now sebastian what's up next so we continue with the rp classes we continue with our p1 women and our two women at the same time climbing so rp is for neurological or physiological impairment uh go on break that down for us neurological physiological impairment because that can mean a large category of different impairments and disabilities yes definitely for example i am i'm also in that category so i'm for example one who falls into the [Applause] impaired passive range of movement um category inside this spot and inside this uh main category so to say but it can also be like something like an atexi acidosis um it can be um a neurological impairment due to an accident for example it can also be short stature for example we don't have them here now um so here we see the list of the men rp2 india also made it to the first competition here manikan and kumar also here with us so our athletes being announced onto the stage there are a lot of athletes who'll be joining us and they'll see already a difference some of the athletes are sitting in a wheelchair some of them are not um but here you also see the next categories climbing that's the au2 you see there it's the upper arm amputation or lymph deficiency so they're all presented now on stage and then we're going to start with the rp's only there we see if i'm all from netherlands she has your helmet currently doesn't she yes so a part of me is going to be climbing in the finals tonight so last year i entered the stadium tonight saying the first thing he said to me was i have to go give eva my helmet uh and then he was explaining that due to the nature of these walls for her condition it's better to wear a helmet and we'll see some of the athletes wearing helmets personal choice from them yeah if i didn't bring one so as i'm not i don't need it today i just gave it to her so the rp category sport classes are pretty let's say wild mixture mixture can be very different and for classifiers it's also the most tricky ones to make the right decision on who belongs into which sport class here we have again one two and three so rp1 rp2 aqua 3 um while rp1 being the most severe and rp3 being the less severe impairment so um they are well even if they have very different kinds of disabilities it's also interesting that they can compete on a comparable level there we see here someone from the us wheelchair is in the al-1 category that's they will campus the whole route angelino zella from austria there yeah i had a great season so far the campus thing is just spectacular to watch so sebastian by this stage in the competition anyone with any kind of a brain would have realized this is a brilliant sport and that if you have any kind of an impairment they might be watching thinking i want to do this i want to go potentially compete for my country certainly start climbing is there a way that people with impairments with disabilities can begin the sport and how do you get to this level of representing your country yeah that's it's a very good question matt because actually i was a proclaimer but i didn't know that this format was existing i met yanny kudo on majorca when he was climbing as pontes and i like to know him and we talked a bit he saw what i am doing and he said like hey sam you have to what to find the german team there's a power climbing uh world cup series you belong to this spot and i was like oh what plastic competition climbing okay i would google it and i found them and i well i got an invitation to a training camp of the german team and when i was there i realized yes i belong to this family and now i'm a proud member of team germany and also being the arctic representative so elected by them to speak for the athlete in front of the ifc so this question is also what we a good question we we're working on because i think there are many para athletes out there they're waiting to be found they just don't know that this exists i'm not the only one who also said talent scouted by someone else so what we need is just we need exposure we need streams like this we just show the world this is existing and it's possible and aside of that there are also these inclusive climbing groups being put in place by local alpine clubs for example where they give people with disabilities the opportunity to climb and i think that's a great great possibility because climbing is also not just say a sport it can also have a theory a theoretical aspect so climbing is also used in rehab centers for um specific training methods and that's also for example where we have athletes from we have athletes who have accidents and who came to on a climbing wall in their rehabilitation center or clinic and that's how they got into the climbing sport they realized okay this is not just about building up some coordination strength whatever i want to do more and yeah we see the numbers of participants growing over the years and um if we continue like this we're spreading the word telling the world that it's there and because it's fun i agree and truly the best of the best are here in moscow joining us so if you're watching this and you have interest in trying our sport out make sure you do go and try it because it's inclusive and it's for everyone and you know it's something we hear often about climbing is you know it's against yourself rather than against you know many team sports is against the opposition this sport is you versus yourself in many many ways and i think for power climbing that's particularly poignant and important to remember because these athletes are overcoming something within themselves in order as you said just to be here and to make any progress on these roots you need to dig so deep into your personal self definitely definitely i mean every kind of knows it's it's you're facing your own limitations your fears it's about having a goal facing this goal following it dedication to the process you your everything around is just a way you're just in this moment in this space and all of these capabilities is something which will help you a lot if life comes up to you and asking serious questions so for example i love the inclusive climbing group with with kids because they well they do climbing but actually it's about much more in this in this sense because what they learn there is so important for them and also for everyone so now we have jasmine plank from austria on stage she's sitting in a wheelchair jasmine has an unknown neurological disease she's not able to walk so she needs a wheelchair to move one thing that and i appreciate this might sound naive but i was the first time i watched paracline when i saw an athlete climbing out of their wheelchair i could have hadn't considered the fact they'd have to come out of the wheelchair i almost thought they'd be climbing with it just because that's my reaction from watching it and i know that sounds silly but honestly i i think that moment where they came out the wheelchair i was like oh my goodness this is incredible incredible incredible scenes and it is because i mean the upper body strength is required for some of this is next level isn't it it is and if you're sitting wheelchair it's a good training for that as well true that is true strong shoulder muscles from her and you can see now pulling upwards that is jasmine plank from austria she competed this year and got the silver medal from brienne so yes mean has um has had an accident um a while ago in the markets there was some rock fall and before that she was not sitting in wheelchairs so yasmine has a history in power climbing in better condition as well and well that can happen she did not so to say stop it it was for her it was just another reason to continue and to train to the next level i actually struggled there in that initial section you could see bumping up with the right hand dropping back down such a physical start to this route so overhanging grabbing the wheelchair on the pen you know your style points style pointers let's see that moment again she bumped up with the right here you can see into the first not sure how to do it because she slept before up and back down again oh well then the pump kicks in and if you're not feeling confident in the route in my opinion it's so important that on the first few moves you have to get the feeling of i'm okay if you don't get to it most likely never get to this point it's very hard to arrive there later on that is daria was over sorry representing cfr [Music] she goes with the left foot pushing against that volume now this quite complicated first section of this route it's not easy to read you can see struggling a little bit trying to get the left drop knee in now crossing under and up [Music] in an awkward position you're gonna have to bump that right foot or cross through with the left very stretched out on the wall tries to match we'll need to bring that left foot down now she does come on so meanwhile we have the next starter steep wall from norway clena avig dina ewik has cerebral palsy it's a congenital neurological impairment it affects more her left side than her right and she has less coordination and strength on her left so maybe you might wonder why i am talking about all these medical details of the athletes here am i actually allowed to say that and i can confirm yes i am the athletes are okay with that and they actually say like please tell my stories please tell my story explain our spectators in front of the screen where and where i am and they're all most of them are pretty confident with that yeah you're right the explaining the stories thing is important because i think they want to know people at home watching this what they've gone through to get to this stage and dina she last climbed in brilliant fifth for her she'll be looking to upgrade that score and we lose in the background there is daria down to the ground for her we'll see a replay of that in a second we might see it right now so she's on the bottom third of this route this is where she struggled a little bit to bring that left foot down and back across actually worked it out yes those balancing moves might if you have limited coordination for example capabilities there that's so to say the nightmare you cross over you have to place your feet and if you miss it somehow for example if one side is not that confident at the other it's gonna get very tricky most athletes then compensate just with pure strength um but that also is something very difficult to measure for example if someone has let's say 30 um less of strength on one side how do you how can you exactly quantify that or how can you yeah put that in comparison to someone else but it's good to see that our root centers build roots for the athletes which make them fair so to say so that left right differences um can be equalized so they guarantee that no matter even impairments is more affecting the left or the right side but it's the same so from spain this is going in the women's rp one category meanwhile in the overhanging route lucia capo villa from italy starting so lucia hasen is one of our first iu athletes on stage here the sierra impairment is congenital so that means she was born like this but that's no reason not to go climbing which is an ape index of let's say minus 20. [Music] good work of this traversing section tricky moves coming up though [Music] yeah it's proving difficult this section for these athletes here this left foot big stretch is required it's a long way out to the right there so mata has classified the rp1 category so she has lots of coordination problems and you see it on her left for example the way she she grabs is not um so to say it gives her limited capabilities that is lucia and as you were saying sebastian negative ape index not ideal for climbing root centers need to make sure that the that the holes are not too far apart so that it's possible also and no matter if the right or the left side is missing so to say um gives you the same chances here so she goes with that left arm you can see the stump protected from the roughness of those holds come on lucia now she's struggling so she comes down and so that's something i wanted to talk about is the fact that these roots we've seen the visually impaired athletes on it now we've seen the rp2 a u-2 it's so difficult for a route setter to be able to set a route for multiple categories of para-climbing athletes yeah the route setters would like to have an own route for every sport class but the problem is that space is limited we're already using the speed wall and the whole lead wall four lines in total i mean we could squeeze more in somehow but then it would um so to say limit the possibilities for um for traverses for example which make also things quite interesting um and so then compromises need to be made here and that means that different sport classes share the same route for sure um for example if you have an au category there you cannot put for example finger pockets and well but climbing is so complex and has so many variations that researchers still have ideas left in the tank to put on the wall so another member of team gp leonora volpe looks up re-reads the route so leonora has an congenital ataxi affects mostly her left side so she has less coordination and also balance [Music] so you saw leonardo coming on stage in a wheelchair and then walking to the root you might wonder why she actually why does he actually need this wheelchair some athletes just use it to be to save energy to to to yeah to so to say find the right balance in between where do i invest my energy so if someone is sitting in a wheelchair does that does not mean automatically that they are 100 relying on it so there she is with the heel hook in now this tricky series of moves out to the left double heel hooks for her good flexibility with that right leg [Music] reaches up the rope just coming over her right side eva mole meanwhile is in action on the left will flick to her in a second crossing through nicely into that first little cruxy section the bumps [Music] camera pans up just to show what's to come for her leonardo rests with four minutes 50 on the clock plenty of time for her as we know time can be a bit of a consideration in these routes they are long lead wall massive in length dominating the stage here in moscow you're watching the para climbing world championships this is about as big as this sport gets this moment my name is matt green support joined by sebastian depka in the commentary box bringing you all the analysis from tonight's action you see with the heel toe jammed in that wow and there's even more sebastian she's not wearing your helmet well i don't know [Music] why did she decide i hope she didn't forget hopefully eva as well as having the progressive muscle disease she has she climbed 45 lung power left she describes that as basically like breathing through a straw whilst climbing and you'll see something when eva comes down from the wall almost collapsing and that's just because by that point in the climb her muscles will not support her anymore in fact she has to be supported when a plane lands so she doesn't hit the seat in front of her that just shows the level of that muscle disease that she has to fight against but what speed from ava mole definitely i mean she has good she has an intelligent way of managing her pace and speed because with limited muscle power i want to make sure that um [Music] you want to be careful with where you spend energy and where better not oh nice so two athletes there and even more we do lose her from the back she will return but leonardo is still fighting coming up to the head wall section that is even more you can see just leaning back there's a little more energy that she's had in other rounds she describes climbing is easier than walking for her you can see just being helped she is okay it's just by that stage in the competition in the proceeding she doesn't have the power to stay yeah imagine you have given everything you have what do you want to do matt lying right next to my sofa right so every time i climb sebastian what she's what she's going through physically is what i feel mentally i climb complete exhaustion but what a performance from eva moles do you go and have a look at her instagram account by the way i follow her and she uh she has some fantastic stories things to tell there we love leonardo [Applause] happy with that though high up on the roof almost at the head wall slipping from this crimps [Applause] so even more will leave us down the bottom next up for the women's pavitra van der hoeven and there is so len has had multiple medals in the past climbing au2 also congenital that means she was born like this uh [Music] in comparison to the seal we saw before it's the other side which is affected here so the routers make sure that it's equal for both what tough job they have and that is van der hoeven missing both legs and this lady i mean she's become a highlight reel on her own right i mean i have watched replays of what she's can do campusing up a route however she is on the speed wall usually we see a campus on something very overhanging perhaps an advantage now she has to campus on only a five degree overhanging wall that might prove problematic definitely it's not just pure power pulling here they need to be very precise and i'm pretty sure that haritra would have liked more to climb on the right side here yeah she's gonna have her auntie style but we're watching celene now climbing up and sebastian that stump that she's using i mean to me that looks painful i know it's strapped but these athletes are used to it aren't they that skin is toughened on the stump and it's something they can use fairly well exactly well they cover it with tape for to protect you to protect it but for those athletes who have in congenital impairment so the stamp is not that painful in comparison to those who had an accident for example or whatever reason need to not led to an amputation those are athletes who mainly have pain there and are not able to be that say hard yeah stump exactly it toughens up i was to try that then get burnt on my arm but there is pavitra she begins her campusing i mean look sebastian we've seen people teeter up that traverse to the right something she doesn't need to worry about is the feet on this but obviously the physicality needed for this kind of style is huge you can just see it using stubs just almost smear on the wall to keep herself balanced she can use some footholds to to place her body on but mostly she's out doing everything from her arms avitra was also born like this and uh what not having legs here gives her a clear weight advantage because someone would have for example [Music] yeah being being sitting in a wheelchair but also having both legs also you see on paricho's left hand here they're not five fingers so uh um yeah yeah exactly yeah is about it i mean watch this she's in the creepiest part of the route here and now gets almost a little rest there on that dish volume to shake out she will need it because she's halfway through a lot more campus thing to go yeah harness is also a very special one it's not something you can buy in a regular class shop so these athletes have to adapt in any way no question in every final i've had the pleasure of commentating on [Music] she climbs 5c 6a depending on the route describes herself as competitive but loves to inspire people well pavitra you do inspire people indeed oh come on okay now it's getting interesting i mean i say no but i haven't got her skill look at this i mean she just goes so fast sideways she only has two fingers so to say to this sound ah she might need to have to cross over but everything again vivitra here but she's still going now she looks to the right shakes out wraps the arm around that body maybe wow not a static way ah it's possible come on should be taking tips from loudoun right here you can hear the crowd getting behind her we're getting over excited in the commentary box as well you want to crawl into the screen we've been quite relaxed during this commentating now we're leaning forward and as you are at home that look at the two fingers on her left almost capable of pinching it but not quite working come on incredible endurance she's trying again and again and again how many tries has she done can she cross over with her right i mean [Music] how has she got the energy for this come on oh this is so amazing pavitra grimacing against the pump wow [Applause] wow i'm exhausted i don't know about her that was that was incredible we need chocolate we do need chocolate hands so pavitra final athlete out and time will tell but that certainly might be up there in the middle positions hard to keep track of it i got so excited i forgot what happened me too sorry and we did lose uh we started off with her and we switched to pavitra power from that lady huge strength on show we'll see confirmation of the results in a bit did you count how many tries you did there just ended i can't believe you called the cross through i if you'd asked me if that's possible for a crossroad but it said no i mean how did she bring that right hand it's only possible she places her lower body uh on the volume below and that's what she did she tried before but you always thought like i can stick it falling on matching those slopers there we're moving on now to a different category we will get confirmation of the results from that soon so now we're having men rp1 and man rp2 clapping at the same time here on the left side we've seen the man rp2 and the overhanging wall ben mayford being introduced on stage waiting to come so that is results of sergeant dropship of women's rp2 so celine we just watched at 43 plus easily into that gold medal position lenora volpe in second see third bronze [Music] women's rp one pavitra van der hoven we watched her battle well deserved gold medal for her eva mole second place without sebastian's helmet but still great performance and mata pesh in third with the bronze medal so let's move on to the men's rp-1 and rp2 already underway on the left side we see tim chafferina from team germany my teammate no bias commentary now sebastian you gotta be neutral okay ish on the right feel free to not be neutral by the way uh that is benjamin mayford from team usa so he has a biff it up which limits his strength range of motion and control of his legs he's also got a difference in the length of his legs and a limited range of motion in his spine due to a spinal fusion so a list of impairments for him oldest v8 513b so strong and he is on first time we see this purple and white route about 7b7b plus meanwhile tim on the traverse and lower pass had a stroke in his head so to say so a neurological impairment affecting his right side so especially if it's getting more pump there you see he needs to be very precise on putting his fingers onto this volume um he cannot really coordinate his fingers and they are pretty much into this position also he is getting more pumped he's getting less and less capable of managing his right side it also affects his feet now let's switch over to ben here yeah he's already more than halfway up the wall now you see how steep it actually is hustling his way through that section through the crimps his right hand bump up so very confident here maybe our route set us now also seeing this for the very first time does it fit ah we lose tim i mean look sebastian you're his teammate will you be disappointed by that performance or not not at all tim is so happy to be in finals he wasn't find it with me and brian song before and um there you see he just he just yeah he couldn't manage to to get his right into this volcano there and then couldn't stick the left volume anymore so nearing the top of the route benjamin final three holds for him has he got the power left he never skips chest day and he needs it right now look at those arms as he goes up with the right hand one last move it's not that easy there is a screw hold on but it's not in the okay just to give some context to that one of the classifiers who climbs very hard seven seat at least or aa for for daniela caramel no he's even projecting ac at the moment there we go plus he probably outside hc he didn't stick that final move when he tried it he'll hate me for saying this on air but i don't care so just to show how uh how hard that route is well what daniel to to to explain it a bit daniel tried the route and he thought like oh it's an easy move and he just slapped up and that's what i was saying the the screw hole on this volume is a bit to the back so you really need to to go with good confidence on there if not yeah there's nothing there you see it it's not on the edge so uh well [Music] underestimating moves won't i appear that's true even if you climb hc yeah so our classifiers tried the routes and it's so good to have them being involved also in route setting because they have all the medical details and all they can explain the backgrounds also to root setters why it is like this it's so good that we have also classifiers who are able to climb these routes that is tana sislo from team usa [Music] in comparison to tim he's timing the al-1 sport class so there you see also merging here another athlete against the campus this time with legs he would also like for sure the more overhanging routes i think it's it's good that the roadsetters have different styles over the season so that it's not the same all the time just doing overhanging power moves [Music] and yeah this time in moscow we're having more technical and not so overhanging stuff manny cannon kumar from india great to see team india in the building and you can see it is awkward though to campus that angle of wall especially if you're trailing your legs like he has to do one arm look at that locking off that one arm actually having to do a one-arm lock off there in order to make that move and another one in order to get that there you go continuing confidence finger strength required as well as shoulder and back muscles here he's through the first volumes the volcano holds and now rests for launching up to these small crimps might be running out of energy here come on well i was holding my breath though and he was starting so team usa claps tana he's down we're halfway through the rp-1 and rp2 categories some of our al athletes have coordination left in their lower legs so it allows them then for example to place their legs on volumes and rest a little bit but to be honest the root centers quite avoided this cape this option in the beginning of the road so yeah sadly we couldn't reach the point where this could be possible just a few moves further up any camden three quarters away through this 7b 70 plus style route of course i'm talking about grades but i know how annoyed route setters get about grades because it's very difficult to grade these competition standards which just give you an idea at home the kind of level these para climbers are having to climb up that's a great shot of our stadium sebastian i mean what a place our commentary boxes are over to the left-hand side of your screen so we've got the best view of the house as we lose manny camden his first competition this year good to have him back manny cannon is for a long time within the park climbing family competing many many different competitions in the past so there in the back we see angelino zella rolling on stage angelino has won every competition though so far this year so here we see the replay of manikandan kumar right in the beginning yeah good performance from him that high right foot just struggling to get it went for the jump instead manny cannon has an uh disease which affects the coordination of his right so that's why he's trying to slap up his leg so to say [Music] the angelino is on the left and on the right hand side will be sebastian thomas from team france also won a lot this year so now we've got two gold medal candidates on stage let's see what they can do so angelino our power campus machine he's uh he's i've heard on the grapevine rumor that he's trying that stephanie gassolfie route the 8a sport route that stephanie gassolfie campus uh i've heard he's wanting to try that so i want to see the video of that and look how quickly he moves through the bottom half of the route into the crimps very confident and angelina told me that they are training more and more on not just positive good holes also on side holes even underclings so i'm very very very curious to see how the sport evolves for these athletes look how quickly he's a third of the way up this is the rest if you can call it that on the flat volume there is no time to slap these slippers pretty confident on those slow press so far [Applause] pauses for a sec bumps the left hand had to readjust with the right and this is a huge move coming up look how far this is away excellent reading he's got the right hand in the right position he's gonna have to come with the right ah this move is so far it's so far it's inception we're watching a screen watching a screen watching the climbing there we go back to the actual climbing come on don't say no angelino angelina i mean that move was i'm in a body length away for him huge and there it is pretty confident already there you see the very last part of the wall also climbing with a helmet he also has a neurological impairment and he has surgery on his head that's why he's wearing a helmet to protect his head especially if you have those overhanging terrain with volumes etc that's also why i would wear a helmet there [Applause] sadly we lose him there yeah four minutes ago he had time and you said sebastian climbing with confidence throughout [Music] so the helmet will give him way more confidence and it's something that you don't have to worry about anymore that's also why i like it wearing it confidence is something i wanted to ask you about because if you receive a life-changing injury or illness or and which leads to an impairment confidence is something that can suffer you know you go from your life as you're used to it to a different kind of life how much can climbing help in terms of a mental recovery as well as learning the physical side of it over again it's one of the best therapies that you can get no question no matter what you experience in your life the question is not what happened the question is what is your next step what's your answer on that are you searching for problems are you searching for your solutions your disability does not care about if you're okay with it or not it's there you're the let's say sort of a flexible component in this game and i'm so proud that these guys you are so inspiring they just they just change it they say okay i'm different but it doesn't matter well we just watched more michael uh sapir on the right that's corby and frank and one of your teammates so we'll talk about we'll talk about more michael in a minute because he's an example of what you were talking about but corbin as well kobinyan he slept on an icy road fell and the car drove over him imagine that [Music] and now he's here at the world championships what injuries did he sustain from that car but the car drove over him and he has severe neurological impairment which gives him less capability of coordination and strength in all of his limbs so you will see carbine doing slightly slower move than other comparable athletes also less quality that if you see him approaching this volume not so confident sometimes a bit shaky he also uses two chalk bags because he's not able to um it's easier for him to grab to the back that's where you see there's two chalk bags there excellent example on how you can adapt well adaption as we were chatting about more michael there because he is someone who had life-changing injuries talk to us about that yeah more markets appear was part of an snow storm a blizzard on the annapurna trek and where more than 40 people lost their lives more just but more survived what his fingers actually did and we're always talking about finger strength if it comes to climbing and no fingers left here oh yeah how he has is just a part of his thumbs there you see it and he still can grab with that so more is one of those exams where i always say like make the impossible possible and he isn't he's high up we've seen that man top roots in brian's son oh but losing your teammate i'm sorry sebastian now we're interesting in the replay how far did he get who's going to get the gold medal is it carbinian it was the volumes the uh volcano holds it did for him so that automatically means that our gold medal goes to angelino hi guys angelina taking that victory great celebration there so nearing the final couple of moves remember the stick in the tail of this route that top hold looks like a jug it's not it's sloppy there's a very small screw on on top of it it is tick marked but you're so underneath it so overhanging it's hard to hit that tick mark can you imagine just hanging on a part of your hand no fingers no capabilities to grab positive holes big jugs it's not going to work for you finger pockets you can watch them you can stand on them oh but water move look at that well there we go that's how to do it once again he tops out and he put the hand right to the back and that's why he's sticking him in easy work for him that is the gold medal [Applause] oh is it the gold medal i think we still have one clamber left sorry sorry i think that i think that is gold for him thomas bastian bastian thomas got close didn't look on the right paper that's all right we've got lots of paper going on also liking the harness matching the holes matching the shorts combo style first as the atheists don't know before this was not intended i think athletes should start matching outfits to holds i think it's the way i mean already look at the colors on the wall the root setters are doing it's probably athletes to step up a bit it looks like they choose this they can use this clothes for exactly for this purpose exactly what i mean they should send a color palette to all the athletes it's up to them to choose to wear the appropriate clothing just give me some hints to the ifs either this is the gold you get in the commentary box with me in sebastian doing the rule rewrite recommendations here exactly you can always go back and and see what wasn't what was noted on the live stream oh there's and the confirmation angelona zella 39 plus tana sislaw was second and your teammate kobien in third bronze so our pete one for the men is done in fact we only got four categories remaining pieces of paper gradually going down here in the commentary box what an evening of climbing this is men's rp2 we just watched him more michael sapir topped out that route benjamin may fourth and second 45 and bastian thomas and third at bronze medal so oh it's coming up to 9 36 moscow time at the moment power climbing competitions are fairly long but do stick with us because exciting moments ahead in fact there's two well one route we haven't even seen yet over on the right hand side red and black route the hardest route hardest road yeah we're very interesting how our men's al2 and rp3 are gonna climb on that yeah so four categories to go so the next one you're going to see is the men al2 and men a youtube we're waiting out for the athlete's presentation on stage right sebastian i've got something to ask you because we've all watched the olympics this summer amazing to see climbing why isn't power climbing in the olympia why wasn't it in the paralympics this year and when will it be in the paralympics yeah i got i got this question after a lot of time i also got emails like good luck in tokyo and i was like no i'm not there um well first of all the ipc and the ioc so the paralympic games and the olympic games are two different events of two different organizations there's a strict catalogue on what you need to fulfill to be part of the games and also sport climbing took multiple tries to get into the games sport climbing is now has been in tokyo part of the olympic games and will also be included in the olympics games in per in 2024 for being included in the paralympic games first of all one criteria is you your able-bodied partner sport so to say has to be in the olympics so while sport climbing has not been into the olympics there was no possibility for product climbing to apply for it the application process for the olympics always goes seven years in advance so now it's year 2021 so by the end of this year we were gonna apply for l.a paralympic games 2028. so the sports for paris 2024 are already decided and fun fact it's the same set of sports that we had in tokyo so for example in paris eight new power sports applied but none of them was accepted so once we are there once we have fulfilled our criterias written in those in this catalog by the ipc there's no one clapping and saying wow we've waited for you now you're finally there and no we're just one of many sports who's knocking on that door and how close to knocking on the door we're just watching by the way replays of the earlier action but this chat is fascinating about the olympics thank you sebastian how close to knocking on the how close to opening the door are you well i would say the the catalogue of criteria um is tough but most of them criteria are quite similar because once you have fulfilled the criteria for the olympic games so say the organizational side of things that you need an international federation with national federations competition format etc all of that is done at the ifsc um we're talking more about specific parts which are which have been introduced this year for example the new classification system which was not built to ipc standards before we changed the rules and we brought up all those new um yeah elements of classification to the stage that we needed to fulfill those criteria and from that side of things i would say we are on a good way it's there and now we are waiting for the so to say application procedure to checking the boxes answering the question and waiting to be checked so to say and to yeah let's keep the fingers crossed exactly let's hope you're obviously good at paperwork because this is a sport i want to see in the in the paralympics i can't wait to see it and i think it deserves to be there me too good we're in agreement get it in there everyone because that is the next step for this part of our sport so athletes introduce on stage [Applause] as we see the categories coming out that is matt phillips coming out i chatted to him earlier he's i tell this story often because i think it makes me look very unskillful but uh that man matt phillips destroyed me on a campus board about three years ago jeremy absolutely destroyed me and i pride myself on being all right at campusing he is so strong we'll see more of that in a minute yeah the the compensation strategy also always leads to some incredible strength and another part which is over average in comparison to others by the way our classifiers who know all the medical details and who tried the route they say this is so impressive with even a limitation and that's what for example our route setters do they are trying to to climb it uh just with one leg blindfolded making sure it's working out the right way and um yeah as i said before try next time once you're in your gym or on the rock just try to climb with one hand try to climb with one leg or just close your eyes and see where you end up well sebastian we've talked a lot about the athlete's impairments your impairment how does that affect your climbing when you're out there well basically a lot i cannot move my spine on my hips so it's all about compensation and it's always like climbing you need [Applause] strength you need technique and you also need strategy if one of those three is affected by your impairment you have got to make the other two better so to say and for me the pure compensation strategy is strength that's all i have that's all i can do the technical parts are limited and [Music] when i'm climbing for example i'm not thinking like oh if i wouldn't be disabled this would be much better now i'm just so to say focus on problem solving it's like i don't even think about it i don't even feel being disabled i don't feel sick i don't feel disabled i am the way i am i'm okay with that i'm i'm a happy guy i'm marta i'm even i would say happier and the more yeah i feel more confident than i felt before being disabled actually because my life changed so much and they opened me a totally new world france and this world is not bad at all and i'm pretty sure those athletes they're on stage thank you thank you they have similar stories to terms and for me it's a big honor here on the livestream to tell them by the tibetan you're telling the stories beautifully and another thing to remember with these power climbers is you know look we know climbing does not have a huge amount of money in it in terms of supporting athletes as full-time professional athletes and even less so for the power climbers definitely a lot of these athletes are coming most of them under their own steam paying for everything themselves as are you i mean that adds another level of toughness to this definitely i mean from the german team i can say the german federation gives some support but you're always loved in some parts on your own especially if you're a new athlete but there are also other countries where athletes are 100 self-funded so yeah it's it's it's it's another level of difficulty coming on top of just being disabled and traveling somewhere and climbing something hard and to all of our members from the family to being here fighting the yeah all the obstacles that are there no matter if they're on the wall or behind the wall in front of the wall and overcoming it exactly i mean just traveling here to moscow is it's a bit of a nightmare during coveted times uh and doing so if you're in a wheelchair if you have an impairment just add another level of difficulty to it and it's just i bring this up just because i think you see us on tv and you think somehow you know it's easy to think some of the athletes have been parachuted into this competition they haven't they've had to work for it they've had to get here they've had to travel definitely i mean all the usual admin fafsa visas but but you know just the sheer difficulty of moving around it can be exhausting and then they have to go and perform it can indeed most of the athletes are used to it it's it's for them it's the their let's say daily life to find a way for the wheelchair for example or for the crutches and um but at the end of the day you need to bring some effort it's there are limitations if there's a is and no ramp and you have a wheelchair and it's yeah it's it's not something you can solve in 30 seconds like if you were able to walk with two legs for example um you might need support eight personal traveling with you accompanying you visually impaired athletes they need to bring their own side guides um that puts a lot of a lot on top from the financial side of things also from the organization so huge respect and i always say like getting here for some is some kind of an expedition absolutely so we are on our final categories here we're coming at you from moscow this is the world championships that's how special tonight is we're in the commentary box front row seats to the spectacle of climbing here this evening now we've got four spot classes left for climbing yeah it's time to shuffle the paper sebastian we've got a lot we've lost lots going on here i mean you're that your side of our commentary box sebastian frankly is disorganized i'm looking at martin look at this perfect i've got my water set up to one side but all my paper stacked neatly you've just exploded everything over your side oh definitely it's the way to go it's creative chaos creative chaos i like that one tell my mum she's uh she's called something different with my chaos before an experiment of entropy yes um that's maxim out on stage from representing cfr claiming a u2 category so now we see the men amputee or lymph deficiency upper limb they have not been merged um like with the women's to rp2 so they will climb all of the athletes here amputation or lymph deficiency meanwhile on the left on the right side you see the al2 climbers [Music] both starting at the same time now we see the first time the red and black route 8 a plus 8 a plus i mean look into those finger pockets and those finger pockets look positive on camera trust me they're not very sloppy hard to hold on to i'm getting a lot of gamba gamba support from team japan in the audience [Applause] sorry for the pronunciation if it's wrong it's all right especially with me anything you say sounds good compared to my pronunciation so don't you worry so we're doing japanese on-site today yes exactly so shuhei off he goes he has his leg is completely missing due to cancer it was an amputation and yeah and that was in the year 2011 he's timing for five years now he's on the world championship stage yeah and that we were talking earlier about how to get into this sport this is what can happen in this sport success can come you find talent you didn't know you had but he's down and maxim is alone on the wall loving his style as well tattooed up just helping that badass paraclimbing attitude [Applause] most of the atheists also have an interesting sense of humor they can make jokes where i trust me you're not you're not you you will you will not know if you're allowed to laugh about it i'm glad you brought that up because look at that cheering from his home crowd here in moscow giving it everything underneath that mask is exactly he's high up on the wall and there he is there we saw dr balder his coach great name great name yeah dr boulder he's he's training a lot of athletes from cfr and supporting them a lot if you've seen him also in 2000 19 at the world championships his last competition was 221 i think yeah but the the the coach and he built his team over there and that's something you see dr boulder [Applause] continuing the good job dr boulder you grew your team so you were talking about the sense of humor because that's something that as i said at the beginning i'm fairly new to the paraclimbing world it was something that you reassured me about you were saying because i was incredibly worried about saying the wrong thing or putting my foot in it and you just said look you can't like we have this sense of humor and someone else messaged me and i can't remember who it was now another power climbing just saying it doesn't really matter what you say as long as you make us seem badass now that is so easy to do it honestly is because just look at this i could say nothing and the badassery of these athletes would be obvious to all it's just awesome definitely look at that goes up with that left stump yeah humor is also a great tactic of how to overcome bad things in life it's a it's bad it's basically it's a compensation strategy well matt phillips will be up next from great britain let me just watch maxim's performance here imagine just hanging with a stump on these edges oh come on i can't meanwhile albert from team spain starting in the 8a plus there one leg a a plus line actually albert has had a motorcycle accident in the past and he has a bit of his left of his leg left for climbing so there are different climbing styles you see athletes who have no legs at all like um to hay before has a stamp left that he can use also for climbing and you will also see athens following who were prosthesis there is matt phillips i chatted about him destroying me on the campus now off he goes into this 7b plus so so strong and use that stump of his right arm to such effect as well [Music] just trying to help out bringing his crutches this is huge moves out right and that body momentum is catching him off the barn door slip with his hands that's it the athletes have incredible amount of strength no matter if it's a leg which is missing or like here the forearm yeah matt phillips getting things out of the way he is a world champion winning in innsbruck still pretty confident more than halfway up the wall approaching dynamically [Applause] loves his climbing this good series is serious series online about his progression in outdoor climbing very keen outdoor climber and we watch belgium's frederick lays he's up next [Music] so matt phillips just readjusting three quarters way through his route he's a big bump up in that right stump makes it stick brings the left through quickly he holds the swing there is frederick lays so there is a frederick he wears a prosthesis so he has two legs actually to use so climbing with the prosthesis means you have no feeling in your foot there he has to visually so to take control is my feet exactly on the foothold or not and also a fun detail if your prosthesis is on the foothold there's nothing no extra centimeter can get out of it matthew for example he could step on something and just push for an extra centimeter possible with the prosthesis it's true those things you just don't think about thank you sebastian for that matt phillips comes down after that jump up strong performance from him it's the coverage fist bump i still don't know how to greet people anymore fist bump handshake elbow tap who knows but that's matt phillips coming up with the right and just missing screwing which was small look how small it is i mean come on you didn't miss it it just was barely there yeah he has no other option if you would go with the other hand and you would have to match it questions would that be stable enough then to go into to the finishing hold so frederick lays here climbing in the stupid part of the route for the crimp lost it on that halfway through the 8a we are towards the end of the men's al 2 category and all the athletes in the al2 category are al2 remember some categories do get mixed this is that's the reason why we need more power climbers more people need to come and join our sport so we can have full categories definitely categories definitely in theory we would have 20 10 for the men 10 for the women at this competition let me count i thought it was eight eleven categories we'd have to split it over two nights about we can't talk for that one well can you maybe we could i don't know i've done marathons before i've done eight hours before maybe we could do that we could have multiple final sessions yeah people volunteers will bring us food it'll be great great four days of course a class qualification two or three days of final rounds that's good to me send your suggestions to the ifsc if you want to see that happen uh brian is on the wall now from team usa [Music] purple and white alternative alternative holes alternating that's the word alternating holds so he's through the purple and white section there's the green beckoning where things get small screw-ons on top stance you can see again that stump not taped [Music] the brain has a congenital impairment so his his forearm was lifting was was missing from birth and he's climbing since 2017. so here we see thierry de la [Music] climbing with the prosthesis we've won lots of mellows in the past yeah strong performances brian's song for him as well on our last one remember la is coming up we hope soon there is brian his last competition was 2019 in brian he's eight can we upgrade that looking strong here in tonight's finals already just over the halfway mark for him that's pretty much the only rest on that 70-plus route [Music] it's funny the uh a lot of the coaches filming the action for later but it's always funny when the camera pans down you just get a bunch of people pointing up because of their phones [Applause] so slapping up what a move from him there [Music] walking the feet up and pressing aiming for that purple hole bumps up with the right maybe needs to come with that left but obviously having the stump it's a very difficult cross remove for him so that bump that's the only way he could have done that [Music] [Applause] brian's down we've only got kevin bartek to come for the men's auto [Music] so there we see the replay section the beginning of the overhanging part one of our photographers here tonight do you go and check out jan vert by the way for the official ifsc photographer he's a man who works so hard you can see all of these action in beautiful photos so this was the crossover he bumped maybe it was a left cross remover obviously not possible to do oh we lose cfe four minutes 20 on the clock okay so men's al2 and men's auto are done we'll say confirmation of that in a minute eight year two we still have kevin climbing oh sorry yes barkin now starting in the route or we see here the replay of terry [Music] yeah he's climbing with the prosthesis it gives him more opportunities for balancing and also if it comes to less overhang climbing this gives him an advantage because he has an extra point to be used on the wall his teammates applauding him so kevin in the meantime already passing the first anchor with the lower top rope i'm very confident in the shoot so far that double rope system if you missed it at the beginning is just to protect the athletes a little bit more because there's a big old swing that you can take on these walls before you get there are pretty strange because you never know in which direction the fall goes so and might go quite far to the back something you not get if you for example just uh yeah just do a normal lead route so here we see gregor selak from slovenia the first athlete in the rp three men rp3 category an rp3 that stands for neurological physiological impairment of three being the least serious but again i hate using that word i don't know what's a better word than serious i can't use the word serious there must be a better word it's not really impacted but it's impacted this impacted athlete thank you sebastian that's kevin bartek your teammate again team germany and team germany strong yeah we we we are here with eight athletes three met into finals sadly we couldn't bring a bigger team but they're working on it yes you are and this man very decorated in his career in fact medals in every single competition that he's entered since 2017 and he's climbing his way towards another one here tonight yeah kevin is uh same age as i and we are also competing for team germany exactly for the same time kevin is also a very experienced outdoor climber he has also experience in alpine big wall multi-pitch sport climbing [Applause] not just competition climbing he was by the way also talent scouted sober so to say by a former teammate he also didn't know that uh the power climbing spot actually exists did we see greg or selak falling yeah early on earlier maybe not that happy with his performance well we say earlier she's about halfway so uh a quarter way not matching this little crimp there so gigo has ms we are watching the team at uh full final laughing out for the au2 so we should see some confirmation of scores in a minute there is men's a-l to tj first place frederick lays in second third 16 plus that's men's al2 as the al2 is sharing the route together with the rp3 we expect um lower um results for the al2 matthew phillips winning a u2 followed by o'brien yeah sorry for me and then kevin bartek in third another bronze medal we said he got bronze the medals in every single competition and he continues that theme now sebastian i know you have to leave me fairly soon here um or start to think about leaving you going down to the stage you're coming back though don't worry everyone sebastian is not going but before he does go i just want to say i'm sure he wouldn't mind that if anyone has any questions that they need answering and sebastian's hit a nerve with you he is on instagram do go follow him along and i'm sure you can drop him a question on there he'll be happy to answer your questions sure also all the athletes most of them have social media just search for them contact them and if you want to get involved in para climbing just approach us we are there we are answering exactly so talk to you later yes so you've got well you can stay with me a little longer perhaps you've got three three to go maybe one last one yeah god stay one last one sebastian i don't want to lose you yet so he's going to stay one last and he's going to make his way down to the stage yeah we just started the women rp3 that's catherine reed yeah we still have a little time left yeah you're good um katarina has had a snowboard accident in 2001. she's had high speed and bad luck ended in a bad way but luckily she survived and uh even worse she had a mountain bike accident a few months ago after that a few months ago that's the reason why she was not in brian she was competing in innsbruck and now even being still affected by this accident she's back on stage and climbing in the finals i can't shut down extreme sports we're making fantastic progress on that route is matthew besnade nearing the end here final section of it [Applause] [Music] ah [Applause] so we lose both athletes almost simultaneously so four athletes in this category one gone three more to go waves goodbye to the crowd she leaves the stage katrina from austria oh sorry matthew we've got two left the men's rp3 and what a competition it's been so far not many tops for those that have been top spectacular yeah the roots at us will like it because too many tops and also the others if you have if you have too many tops it's uh then it can't it comes back to contact on previous round if they have the same result most likely you also have two tops in both gratification routes yeah then it comes down to time and that's not what the athletes want so i would say so far great separation but routers good job and uh fantastic sure yeah we see a replay of that moment pumping up on the first route about 7a plus see that moment she fell again slapping up for the third second of those jugs there he is checking out on the 8a plus i just keep saying 80 plus being a bit staggered that came saying it i mean these roots do jump in difficulty don't they from that 7b plus does this 8a plus and the reset is i mean they can set roots that hard because of the difference in the impairments and disabilities of the athletes themselves definitely definitely they try to mimic us a little bit and then try to see if it if it works for sure and for amputation or lymph diffusion is something you cannot mimic that easier for example someone who has 30 percent less coordination or strength [Applause] so there are limitations but i would say over the years they have so much experience and that the team of root cause is growing and growing and their the roots are getting better and better we are it's it's playing and trying and experimenting i was in mancat from slovenia early fall from hurt [Applause] but early on in this finals will it be enough for her so metal medals being decided remember bronze silver and gold for each category and we're gonna say goodbye to sebastian for the time being he's got a very important job to do on stage so i'm gonna say goodbye to sebastian for a couple of minutes and then he'll be back [Music] thank you [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] right so sebastian exits down sorry about that just sorting sebastian out to leave the commentary box he's on his way and we watch our final couple of athletes competing out here on the stage roman padme from france stands up through the bottom half of this eight eight we see another phone in phone shots cameraman liking that angle they're from great britain martha evans she's on the 7a plus over on the left [Music] [Applause] [Music] shakes out reaching up through the middle half of the roof route [Music] crosses through you can see breathing hard our microphones catching every moment of these athletes effort big effort from him [Music] out again to the slopers standing up on the heels fantastic technique from him as he comes into the hardest part of this room hideous that's the way this was described by the classifier who tried it and remember that classifier can climb 8c so if he says it's hideous it truly is and he loses it on the left pinch giving absolutely everything on that moment [Applause] comes down will it be enough for him we'll get confirmation of those results very soon [Music] [Applause] i lose martha evans from her route so one final athlete to go here let's see a replay of that snatching up onto the pinches we will return to the earth four minutes 19 o'clock time not playing a factor here tonight the sheer difficulty of these routes being enough to separate these athletes so we have a moment of pause be layers waiting for our final athlete out here tonight from france [Applause] we see numerous gold medals to our name you look at her competition history that's filled with goals 2021 has been good to her so far first in innsbruck second in brienne what can she do here tonight dumps the crutch looks back at her belt gives him the nod and off she will go she lost that left leg just 15 due to bone cancer a fan of indoor climbing loves innsbruck clutter centrum gym i mean who doesn't what a gym that is campus boarding is her preferred method of training so steal like fingers from her crosses through she'll need every bit of that finger strength on this route small holds throughout a real windy route starting on the right going left back rides again and she's on that first right dog leg now the side pulls i've seen a lot of action here today certainly the first the little first crux of this route so lucy stretches out with the right pressing against that volume now bumps into the juggie rest section where she'll probably take a moment just to compose herself cutting loose there finding a little knee bar scrub and bringing that left stump way up high personal life she's a chemistry scientist as well as showing climbing off to the world she likes to science off as well travels around the general public and schools talking about science as a career so lady hugh is all about the inspiration pumps the right out twice halfway through now [Music] into the back slopey volumes up high stretches out with her fingers just reaching around the corner it's more of a foothold that though really there's a little crimp above her head there brings it through with the left finds it this time almost got caught with that trick from the root setters that foot instead of a sort of a hand [Applause] [Music] now the first really big move of this route [Applause] swings again she's really got that swing move down manipulating her body over to the right and left depending on where it needs to be as i shake out is that pump up to the crowd he's a pump up to the crowd [Applause] flexibility with that left stump [Music] out on the slopes are we about to see another top a final top of this evening that would be great i want to see one more here tonight in moscow catches the swing holding on to absolutely nothing she missed the screw-ons one final move to go for her climbing herself into this gold medal position now will stand up high to the top fingertips out palming it creeping her way towards the jug [Applause] and down she comes finally fantastic performance from lucy [Applause] [Music] waves to the crowd and what an evening entertainment we have had i said spectacular and it really was watching these athletes compete here tonight i'm all alone in my commentary box right now sebastian's expertise always invaluable during these events of course we'd all love to see him climbing in the finals but personally it's a pleasure to have him to see a replay of that top what a moment for her waves to the crowd [Music] first of all we have a rather poignant event which we'll talk about in a second let's look at the results for the men's rp3 raman pragno getting the same score separated by time he's got the silver and man third with bronze medal 23 plus for him women's rp3 you see in first place with a top on what a top that was second martha evans from team gb fantastic para climbing world championships team gb have had been a writ third with the bronx well i hope you enjoyed that ladies and gentlemen back at home we've got the awards ceremonies coming do stick around for the next part of this show this is where sebastian has gone off to he's entering stage now it'll be sad remembering another lady's life celebration as well of what she did and we'll get to that in a minute and then we have the podiums and a few podiums as i'm sure you're aware and i'll be going down to interview all of the winners in a marathon of interviews just some more speaking remember tomorrow we have the women's bouldering semifinals and finals i'll be in the commentary box along with hannah moyle finals i have no idea he'll be joining me we'll see it's one of my jobs to run around like a maniac trying to find people to come up and join me and then we progress with the men's semi-finals and finals in bouldering before moving on to the lead qualifications on monday and tuesday our final day of competing it's going quickly it's friday at the moment i say it's going quickly we've got loads to get to haven't we bouldering is up next over the weekend so if you're not out climbing in fact even if you are out climbing stop climbing come on watch us on the ifsc here in moscow for the world championships it only happens every two years i'm just having a little pause here in proceedings don't go anywhere that's our stadium here in moscow the speed wall on the left being utilized as a lead wall for a change i was told they were using the speed well i actually thought the power climbers would be climbing on the speed route right now fully semi-finals tomorrow in the middle the route set is doing a good job of covering the holes the lead wall was covered by lights some very trippy lights to stop the athletes getting too much of an idea bouldering wool covered because it's easier to do so imagine trying to drape a lead wall i've seen it done but it is a complicated logistic exercise that one so sebastian is down on the right hand side of the stage i can see him from my commentary box he's just off camera might be setting up for the podiums first perhaps take a little moment to rest if you're watching and hello to everyone back at home who's joining us here tonight and there's a dedicated following for power climbing and a lot of new faces thank you for all the messages you've been sending about how much you enjoy this side of our sport big up to the organizers for tonight by the way it's a logistical nightmare trying to organize this many people into two stadiums my own ego i mean that's that takes three people to manage as it is but they have done a brilliant job of organizing everything from the logistics airport runs hotels of course we only just returned from russia from the youth world championships and we're here for the senior world championships before we move on in only two weeks time to south korea for the final event of the season last bouldering event and season draws to a close and we're back in switzerland and it all started earlier on this year thank you for uh see i'm in the air 100 box alone but thank you for everyone as well are you listening for welcoming me to the commentary box it's been a steep learning curve i've enjoyed every single second of it so thank you for allowing me to your voice throughout these proceedings we're waiting now for the next part of tonight podiums and a special event to come then the interviews watch a little replay of the actions to sit back and enjoy what performances from our athletes here tonight [Music] so [Music] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] we are all born with different strengthness and weaknesses when we see someone looking different from the norm we tend to assume the life must be hard it's a very easy to believe that your opinion of the outside world is an absolute and cannot be changed i'm just a little seedling who's not strong not big not symmetrical however what is deep inside also matters our soul is our root with which we cling and seek water if like children we stay open and give ourselves the chance to try things that seem completely meaningless incomprehensible and difficult then miracles can happen melinda's miracle was climbing and the root of the small tree found water the tree began to grow to expand to bloom to beer fruits and food to others the seemingly insane idea of someone climbing a wall or a rock with a shorter limb created a wonderful tree melinda was motivated by climbing to develop and win challenges by gaining more and more self-awareness and self-confidence the tree began to grow she wanted to be aware of the weaknesses in climbing and she tried to fix them because of physical asymmetry the ultra had waist shoulder and elbow problems but she worked on them every workout or competition gave her more and more opportunity to develop to be a better climber a better competitor she was looking for answers she worked a lot to improve herself in our work together we realized that the smaller hand seems to be a weakness but it is in fact an advantage that can be used in certain situations and in some cases it can even be better than a regular hand the tree began to expand they say it's up to you here are some examples of what millen and went on in melinda's mind she saw the races as a celebration where members of the disability family could meet again and use their achievements to push the next generation to achieve even bigger goals she always smiled tried to feel good was light but focused at the same time she showed an amazing positive vibe setting an example for all athletes to follow the three blossomed who would have thought that someone who starts climbing as an adult and then competes at the age of 34 and can win the world championship silver medal in the bronze she stood on podiums eight times out of nine competition the tree began to bear fruit in every competition she was happy to have more and more people and a growing family a community i remember when she told me she wanted to do something for other people with disabilities i thought it was a fantastic idea and i supported her to the maximum i encouraged her to try to organize a day to introduce people with disabilities to this beautiful sport luckily nimeshi managed to find companions in the berlin climbing gym in germany who helped her to run this event which was followed by a similar one later she began to hold training sessions for the disabled on a weekly basis creating opportunities for a more active physical and social life but visually or physically impaired the tree gave food to others unfortunately the tree has fallen under the winds of destiny but still it feeds new trees so that they can grow expand bloom beer fruits and give food to others well done melinda friendly across us sorry i missed the beginning of this but this is a dedication to melinda who sadly lost her life recently in a fall while she was out hiking in germany she's a lady that i had the privilege of meeting and now we remember her hi melinda i'm talking to you because you are here i can feel you beside me i can feel you climbing with me on this route i can feel you thinking with me on the best way to do it and i will bring you with me on the podium if i make it that's what we were we were just one people think that climbing isn't on this individual sport but i can say that with you it was not during competition we were always together talking of the best way to warm up sharing snacks before the route taught about the setting and we were always on finance together we used isolation time to update each other about our private life i've got so many things that i would like to tell you was so funny to see how we were living the same life in different countries we have the same power same fears same kindness and same weakness i cannot say i found a friend in you i found another me i remember the first time we met a place like this same situation competition venue but since our eyes crossed our sources spoken to each other we never felt like we were competing against each other we were there for each other during the final observation we gave each other advice thinking which move would be the best whatever the result we shared pure joy winning or not and you were there on my side on all podiums always one step higher and i was so proud proud of you proud of our friendship you were a force of nature you never stopped you were always searching for something always looking forward to new ways of feeling living and loving you were always sociable and kind to everyone always had gentle words to help others feel better and believe in themselves you were very keen to weave your web of friendship you always wanted to talk learn compare so you could work on yourself and help others do the same so full of enthusiams sweetness confidence but you were also burning fire for what was close to your heart now i can remember with a smile how upset you were on your last competition this is you always ready to fight and invest in what you believe it's kind of ironic that you so brave to climb without a hand had a fall walking sometimes life has got his own way to give and to take you were such a good climber a good woman full of passion for the mountains and you enjoyed it until your last breath your life has been too short and this is our mind for us to leave the present because we will never know what can happen tomorrow you are living your dream every day and we are happy to have had the opportunity to work beside you on this path which is life sharing all those emotions with you and we will bring you in our hearts for the rest of our days [Applause] when one in our family is leaving us alone a lot of questions are coming to our mind we try with any mean to feel the emptiness that the loss is creating in our lives but we don't have all the answers the only thing we can do is keep our faith we keep us believing in our dreams in the dreams that is driving melinda's life in order to make our sport for all and everyone united in our diversity to make the world a place for all and everyone now i ask you to tribute a minute of silence in memory of melinda thank you farewell melinda [Applause] we take a moment to remember melinda's life thank you to everyone who observed that silence and to everyone listening back at home very emotional moment here in the auditorium and stadium she will be remembered by all it's now time to do the podium places for tonight's winners so much dedication and hard work goes into this moment and we take a second here to celebrate i'll be on stage receiving their medals in a couple of moments and then we'll be going down to interview the winners and have a chat with them so we're almost ready now the athletes are backstage getting ready to pick up their medals cameramen are poised organizers are ready the light guys have switched their lights on everything's done that needs to be done now we just need to see our winners here is done in spectacular russian style our podium finishes our podium places will come out [Music] and join us on stage dear friends welcome to the awarded ceremony of the ifsc in third men's b1 category what a performance from him first the president of the international federation of sports climbing mario maria of the international federation and the jury president of the competition francois leonardo is ladies and gentlemen please welcome our man medalist of the lead world championship 2021 in the discipline lead is in group b one bronze medalist representing great britain dapton jesse [Applause] [Music] silver medalist represented romania middle school [Applause] so sebastian is back with me in the commentary box after that emotional tribute to melinda sebastian i know you're taking a moment to gather your thoughts here but right now we're looking at reservoir picking up his silver medal sebastian a beautiful tribute there thank you for your words you're welcome world championship it was an honor for me to be a defensive [Applause] athlete representative it was clear to me just to to read the speech from the hungarian coach who could not be here with us [Applause] he did a great job sebastian thank you we'll talk about melinda's life more in a minute and right now he'll receive his gold medal watched him top out the first athlete championships as we pause for the national anthem of japan [Music] [Music] [Applause] so the first podium is done here tonight that's men's b1 all of our athletes here tonight by the way the top we saw in the route was the only wizard lame pair topping the rune and it was the b1 yeah exactly yeah it was the first one out yeah absolutely smashed it and the one who sees nothing i know not the b2 has its own visual feedback you never know would you he climbed it so fluidly now she also new also the side guides to our models has been updated conversation comparison to past competitions really they didn't get one before no what that's disgraceful i'm glad that's been adjusted so you see we're changing things as well yeah that's good to see well they will exit now we have got quite a lot of podiums here tonight um perhaps watching podiums isn't your thing but hopefully you'll stay and support our athletes here tonight we'll be here we're not going anywhere no thank you very much happy before we have time we've got time we have time i have a list we do have a list of things and i think we've covered most of the things we wanted to chat about because both me and sebastian lead i think we've pretty much done it sebastian i mean the only thing we haven't really looked at is sort of and which i'd like to delve into a bit more instead of this link between sports and life with disabilities because it's something that i'm a client i'm a passionate client three four times a week it's a huge part of my life and it is for these actors in the same kind of way you know they are in the gyms they're training they're thinking about it i mean you must be you're a climber how often do you spend your time thinking about climbing wishing you were climbing i dream of it now we see the podiums of the women coming on stage climbing it's australia it's it's a party kind of take away from life from me or also from them and well the relationship between power climbing and life what what we had before on stage ceremony for melinda what's the perfect example now you're maybe a climber you don't know what happens tomorrow you may be a power climber and there are many examples here on stage where exactly this occurred [Applause] there is nadia bredichi close to our medalists women's b2 [Music] the the trophies they're going out here due to covet regulations they have to put them on some themselves so but imagine a visually impaired athletes there's nowhere to grab so would they have their side guides there as well that's true i'm glad that logic has come through and amongst the kirby and now we listen to that [Music] okay [Music] [Applause] [Applause] take a moment in front of the photographers there's a big finals here tonight but we'll be with you all the way and me and sebastian we're talking off camera off camera we're not cameron we should be on camera we're not off radio maybe so asian you were saying something about explain to people watching what you were saying today was the perfect example that life is what happens when you had other plans um as i said during the during the climbing most of the athletes here ladies and gentlemen they have experience so many incredible things like accidents most of them could have died in the discipline leads easy they made it here and i think that's that's something aside all the climbing the medals also those who don't make it to finance something to respect and to to think of and also when i'm talking to others who are disappointed about their climbing results is like look back the way you've gone look back where you are coming from you can be proud of that because sometimes you tend to forget because it's so normal you know you hear you're climbing and you tend to say that the new normal has always been like this and that's that's it sometimes looking back and be proud of yourself and accomplish what you've done and of course i mean a lot of these athletes you know they've made it to a real pinnacle in terms of sporting people are slipping through the cracks and hopefully someone's watched this and thought you know what i'm slow i might have a disability i might have an impairment i want to join this and it's very inclusive it's very open and we've seen athletes who already started a couple of years ago standing on podiums i mean it's accessible for everyone definitely it is so look in your country if there are occasions for fire climbing or inclusive climbing if you have someone from your country you saw you're on stage goes to drive you can find them maybe text them and trust me most of them are happy to be contacted and give you more information about power climbing absolutely come and join us sebastian we'll be talking about you in a few years time if we're still around richard slocott got his silver medal there and then team japan's fumiya gets the gold around his neck this is men's b2 [Music] so b2 ladies and gentlemen please write national anthem of japan again [Music] so [Music] [Music] [Music] [Applause] i then leave the stage [Music] sorry i got that wrong men's b2 i was ahead of myself as i said paper admin night map do apologize it's the dyslexia kicking it and the light is not the best thing here you know what i let's go with that and maybe it's uh it's coming up to 11 o'clock at night here in moscow me and sebastian a little bit tired sebastian's not as fresh as a daisy i'm i'm perhaps a little weary but this is a great moment i do love the podiums because you just see so much raw emotion on these athletes faces [Music] next up is the women's rp1 right sebastian am i right on that one thanks i think so uh still sorting my papers oh yes sebastian's having an administration fantastic [Music] should be ladies and gentlemen please welcome our women medalist of the lead world championship 2021 in the discipline lead so was it right rp1 no no it's a woman rp2 merged uh so we're doing the podiums not in order that's what confused me you see i mean how are they meant to how am i meant to know i've got my piece of paper aligned and we're missing silver medalist at the moment slim pickle isn't first not sure where she is i'm sure anyone knows where she is where is she that's pointing looking if you're standing there on stage you actually don't see that much because the lights all the lights are shining right into your face so they're not the ones there she's coming that's not on camera yet but there we go from team gb joins us bro so all three up on stage italy um [Applause] she did great and i know from her it was not easy for her also many of the of our athlete family were representing really hard by this leonora volpe [Applause] i think so successful [Applause] across our stadium let's sit back and enjoy that shall we ladies and gentlemen please rise for the national anthem of france france [Music] [Applause] [Music] our medalists [Applause] [Music] [Music] right so another podium down i'm going to stop guessing who's coming next because the order is a little confusing ladies and gentlemen please welcome our women medalists of the lead world championship 2021 in the discipline lead is in group rp one rp-1 the lady said so it must be true so the most they were affected it's interesting to see that it works if you merge also al and rp athletes together sure fairness can always be discussed here um and i'm always if it comes to athletes complaining um bronze medals you always have an upper end at the lower end of a sport class and sometimes even if you're not on the podium you have to accept that maybe you are a personal winner in comparison to your personal limitations your disability which will not be rewarded but it's not like able-bodied climbing where it's it's it's more equal or comparable and they are discussing about ape index size weights this difference is something that's quite sort of obvious in this category because we've got a mixture of al and rp athletes yes people are going to watch this and say look it's unfair and i know this is an obvious criticism to level and we've discussed the fact that we prefer athletes to be climbing rather than not going to middle east but it is tricky if you look at this as an outsider you think hang on a sec someone has no legs climbed with someone with legs it looks unfair again people missed our explanation just explain it a little bit because at the end of the day if you would want to make it as fair as possible then almost everyone would compete in his own sport class and we would have 100 gold medalists and that would actually not be a competition it would be more like a joke please rise for the next i'll still be there so we'll carry on this conversation in one minute after the nation we've got to fit in the information in between the songs [Music] okay [Music] [Applause] my [Music] right so we were rudely interrupted by the national anthem in the middle of our chat you were saying so emerging the categories um sort of the best of a bad situation involved you know hundreds of gold medals going on definitely so the idea is we group athletes together where you have a comparable or list coming close to comparable level of um possibilities for climate change and then we let them compete there are other sports where there are even more different impairments mixed together and in some power sports they have lots of sport classes for example athletics or swimming i think it's even more than 40 sport classes there um to to be fine greninja unfair for everyone but they're also sports who only have one sport class for example in power weightlifting allows us to have people competing whose sport class is not big enough to reach the minimum criteria and to have their own competition so the minimum criteria what is the minimum that's the mean weight so the minimum criteria is out of three different countries for world championships how we have it here today it's six athletes from four different countries so even higher and well as we have eleven middle east and court classes running tonight the speed world see there are still nine missing so if you're out there i think hey i fit in there more miles please knock on our door dude i mean not literally sebastian's story michael the yes exactly and do you go and follow sebastian on instagram while you're at it i'm not sure if i'm of israel [Music] [Applause] hold on if you've been with us since the beginning we have four podiums to go and thank you to everyone who's been sending support for these events i know a lot of people sitting at home really enjoying tonight's entertainment and climbing of new people to the sport as well and also greetings to our family members who could not come here to moscow to compete here i know you're sitting in front of your screen you would have liked to come but for what a reason it was not possible you do mean climbing family it's not your mom competing no right no it's our proclaiming family right just to make that clear sebastian's mum on stage raising his hand in celebration he's enjoying this moment he's always having fun he's enjoying this so much what happens once her teammate wins a medal does it sort of get passed around in the bar after the event i mean what happens i'd want to hold it if someone had a medal try it on maybe yeah you can try with mine oh you've got one haven't yes quite brienne's song you won bronze in the commentary box oh please bring it next time i'll never take it off the bronze so [Music] no matter what happens just go silver the world champion [Applause] being able to say that angelino i think it would win every argument i'd ever have i just said stop i'm the world champion enough [Applause] ladies and gentlemen please rise for the national anthem of austria [Music] [Applause] two more to go ladies and gentlemen in fact we've got one more of speaking through it and then we're going to head down close to ours i think one day angelina would have will have to extend his medal room does he have a room i don't know but if he continues like this he definitely needs one metal room that'd be cool wouldn't it most people happy with a shelf but no not that man angelino if you he was coming from a park lighting accident he fell from 20 meters to the ground every time you say this survived yeah you are i'm a paraglider a very recent paragard and every time you tell this story i go a little bit nervous because i'm i'm almost 80 flights in so i'm at the point of my paragliding career all right i still have no idea what i'm really doing it's complete luck when i land to take off i don't know what i'm doing so that story does make me just appreciate do you want to hear more stories about ice climbing be laying it's all right i don't care about ice climbing silly sport anyway i don't actually mean that i do like ice climbing i competed you know that was right i represented great britain in the european iceland championships yes true story i tried it once and i decided it's not my sport too cold not one of your teammates kevin sorry say pronounce it again [Music] and finally matt phillips or matthew phillips will receive the gold and gold medalist and the winner of this speed world championship 2021 world championship great britain met you featured that was yesterday [Applause] [Music] met you ladies and gentlemen national anthem of great britain and help of great britain again [Music] right ladies and gentlemen me and sebastian we're gonna head downstairs enjoy the final podium here tonight i'll be back will you hear my voice in a couple of minutes so don't go anywhere we've got some questions with the winners to come bye-bye sorry i should say sebastian thank you so much for joining us once again we won't hear sebastian again you won't hear me again thank you for joining us here tonight and we'll be back tomorrow for the bouldering action sebastian fist bumps in the commentary box thank you it was an honor and pleasure to be with you again here in the microphone i hope sincerely that you never make a finals again but of course i don't sebastian win many more medals never see this commentary box again but when you don't get through by complete fluke please come and join group a l 3d machine bronze medalist representing japan [Applause] your applause to our bronze medalist international bronze medalist silver medalist representing belgium frederick lace you're close to frederick vasia placement frederico and gold medalist and the winner of the lead world championship 2021 representing france thierry de la rue [Applause] foreign [Music] ladies and gentlemen please rise for the national anthem of france so [Music] [Applause] to our medalists [Music] ladies and gentlemen please welcome our man medalist of the lead world championship 2021 in the discipline lead is in group rp three men bronze medalist representing iran iran there [Music] [Music] gold medalist and the winner of the lead world championship 2021 represented friends of champions league [Music] ladies and gentlemen please rise for the national anthem of france ready one [Music] [Applause] dear friends you are close to our medalists [Music] ladies and gentlemen please welcome our women medalist of the lead world championship 2021 in the disciplined lead is a group rp3 women bronze medalist representing austria katarina reed bronson prince david there [Music] silver medalist representing great britain martha evans event gold medalist and the winner of the lead world championship 2021 [Music] ladies and gentlemen please rise for the national anthem of france yes foreign [Music] here [Music] [Applause] you're close to our middle east uh ladies and gentlemen let's start our flower ceremony in the discipline leads in group b3 ceremony foreign oh sale the third place goes to luke's losses sale from great britain [Applause] [Applause] first place goes to cosmin florian kandoy from romania and and now the first place goes to kojahiro minawada from japan nevada [Applause] [Applause] spada ladies and gentlemen we continue our flower ceremony of the lead world championship 2021 in the discipline lead in group b three women first the third place goes to cenita dono panavar foreign [Music] second place goes to tania glasses from slovenia tiny glasses [Music] and the first place goes to ionella greco from romania [Music] my [Music] [Music] uh [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] one two three four five six seven here we go this is a test testing testing testing we're testing the sound this is a test can you hear me guys okay so one stay for the interviews you ready yes you're ready you're ready english okay cool uh am i in the light okay congratulations a gold medal and again such a display of strength from you yes it was a really tough route but it wasn't nice and i enjoy it so yeah i'm proud because i struggle with one hold and i couldn't read it so uh yeah i was happy that i finally got it so yeah i'm really happy well enjoy you are a world champion thank you thank you very much [Applause] [Music] make congratulations again such a display of muscle power campusing your way through the route did you enjoy it out there oh yes it was amazing but the ball was very flat and yeah so i yeah it was maybe to get another touchdown congratulations enjoy that gold medal and hopefully a few drinks tonight oh yes thank you cool thank you very much thank you [Music] that's all no no not foreign uh okay

Channel: International Federation of Sport Climbing

Views: 45,513

Keywords: Sport, Climbing, Sport Climbing, Climb, Rock Climbing, Climbing Gym, IFSC, Competition Climbing, Lead Climbing, Climbing World Championships, IFSC World Championships, Moscow, Paraclimbing, Paraclimbing Championships, Paraclimbing World Championships, IFSC Paraclimbing World Championships

Id: vLIpxuFdeNg

Length: 223min 55sec (13435 seconds)

Published: Fri Sep 17 2021