2019 USA Climbing: Bouldering Open National Championships | Finals

[Music] the Sun setting behind the Cascade Mountains and Central Oregon as we wrap up day two of competition at the Deschutes County Fair and Expo Center we started this competition with 53 women we are down to six at the 2019 USA climbing bouldering open national championships the final six women being introduced to the crowd here in Redmond Oregon and soon they will face four challenges that decide who is the bouldering open national champion thanks for being with us here today everybody I'm Sean woodland alongside former US team member Meagan Martin that of course a national championship is at stake here but so is an opportunity for these climbers to get one step closer to earning a spot on the u.s. national team overall doing well here for these athletes is so vital because they're trying to get points to them beyond the overall national team where they can then go to World Cups this season and compete and then hopefully have a shot at Tokyo in 2020 there are four boulders that await these women and unlike the final the other two rounds I should say they actually get to preview these exactly the women will have four Boulder problems and they'll have four minutes on each Boulder they won't get to watch each other but they will get to preview together and their goal is to get as high as they can on these Boulder problems with that 25 point top being where they want to be final six women getting set to attack those four problems and coming into the final round Ashima cherie she has been near-perfect she has faced nine total problems through two rounds and she's top eight of them she has been phenomenal all weekend long and really good for her after coming off of kind of disappointing competition at the combine Invitational so she's been killing it all weekend and I'm sure she's looking to do well here tonight and she's been on the podium the last years at bouldering nationals Sheree see the top woman out of the semifinal round brook rabbit ooh was the final woman in but very well positioned to do very well in this final round definitely a possibility for brick rabbit who rabbited to be very successful today she got second at the combine Invitational and she showed some very creative climbing today during the semifinal round was had some unfortunate climbs earlier but I think it'll push her through to do really well tonight the women will go in reverse order based on the standings meaning that Brook rabbit tube will be first and Ashima Sheree she the top qualifier out of the semifinal round will go last the climbers are on the floor previewing all the problems problem number one is first and we will have it for you when we return to the 2019 USA climbing bouldering open national championships [Music] the 2019 USA climbing bouldering open national championship is brought to you by the North Face inspiring and enabling exploration since 1966 a look at Smith rock one of the more famous landmarks in the sport of climbing considered by many to be the birthplace of the sport itself the final six women are in front of the wall previewing the problems that await them here in the final round you have been part of this before and been out there previewing problems one of the things that you're trying to work through in this limited amount of time so since the athletes only have four sorry since they only have two minutes to preview on each Boulder problem the goal is to try to figure out what exactly you're supposed to do to get all the way up to the 25 sometimes it's a little more obvious sometimes you walk away from the preview being like I actually have no idea what's happening I think the easiest thing to do is to take it by the zones as you see there's the five zone the ten zone the 15 zone and the 25 zone is what the top is so those zones kind of gear you towards the direction in which you should go while you're on the boulder problem so a lot of these women are sitting there kind of running it through their heads or through their heads and with each other and then they're allowed to touch the start holds only they can't touch anything with their feet they can't touch any other holds but they can all feel the start holds all these women are vying for the national championship here but as we mentioned at the top climbing is going to be part of the Olympics in 2020 it is a long road to get there but one of the first big milestones is to qualify for the u.s. national team overall and those points are at stake here in this event yes the better that these athletes do here the more important points they will accrue and then they'll accrue more when they go to sport and speed national is hoping to then have enough points overall to be one of the four on the overall team Kyra Conde is the only woman already on the overall team after winning the combined Invitational we started this competition with 53 women is Mishima Sheree she the top qualifier out to the semifinal round could use a preview the problems and we are now down to the final six they're looking at women's number three right now after taking a look at it this looks like one of the more technical problems within the round to me after just taking kind of a overview of all four Boulder problems it looks like you have two pretty technical climbs and then two climbs that are a lot more powerful one more focused on footwork I believe and kind of coordination and the other one that's powerful more focused on finger strength and body tension and in this round only one woman will be climbing at a time they will all do problem one and then they will all do problem two when you're the only person out there in front of this crowd mentally how does that affect what you're doing it kind of depends on the climbers some climbers thrive on being the center of attention others are just more in their head and focus on what they're doing Alex Johnson is one that loves a crowd loves the cheers I think she does better when she has the crowd behind her so I feel like she's always been able to perform really well in a finals round because she loves you know that cheering and support from the crowd just saw Margot Hayes as they are now previewing women's problem for the final problem of the evening that is Alex Johnson definitely one of the trickier problems in the round it's got a pretty early on either coordination start or maybe there is a static way around it but a lot of those holds on that Boulder problem you see some shine kind of bouncing off the holds from the light that's the slippery texture of that dual text hold so only part of that hold actually has friction so there's lots of room for these women to slip around us are trying to find their way up to that 25 fold at the top and all four of these problems do have those for scoring zones 5 to 10 the 15 and then the final 25 point zone the higher you get obviously the more points that you receive and you will get penalized a tenth of a point every restart you have on the way to your highest point on the wall you see Alex Johnson and Claire bear fine kind of going over the start I think they're probably trying to figure out if maybe they can if they're gonna need to jump into it or if they can press and then have to jump after to get to that second volume volumes are those geometric shapes that you see on the wall sometimes they're grippy sometimes they're slippery there's a couple of the ones on that specific Boulder problem where parts of it have friction and parts are the slippery other texture which from the ground you can't necessarily tell on some of them it's possible but sometimes you can't so there'll be a lot of caution going into certain movements from these way [Music] time is up the previewing time for the women is over the athletes not climbing now go backstage so they do not get to see each other climb they can't glean anything from another performers from somebody so going late certainly does not have any advantage I think that for a finals round generally it's kind of nice to come out early because the one thing about coming out first is everything you do is amazing nobody sees anyone on any of these climbs so if you're a climber who really thrived from the support of the crowd it's a great place to start Raz winner in isolation and you're going last you can just hear people get excited when somebody possible or though you can't see it you can assume they did well so then there's more added pressure noise to like hopefully win you cannot turn around until the four-minute time puck starts look at the crowd gathered here in Redmond Oregon for the finals of the 2019 bouldering open national championship what's really nice about this format too is once each woman is done then the next one will come out right away we don't have to wait for the clock so if Brooke happens to do this Boulder within a minute and 30 seconds we're gonna see the next climber come out right away after her instead of having to wait her clock to countdown they also wait until she's ready to go so she can be like okay guys I'm ready here's the first attempt for Brooke Rabbit ooh on problem number one standing on those small footholds that are also dual textured only parts of the hold have friction nicely making her way into the five and ten with that small coordination move now has to move over to the right make it the left and up top for that 15 point zone Brooke looks very comfortable here she's very good at Mantle's and that's what she has to do as she will press and stand up to get to the 15 has to make sure she's in the right position rather to has it now she eyes the 25-point zone looking for a perfect run here on her first attempt some delicate footwork here to get over she knows she's gonna have to jump to that 25 point pulled but she has to make sure she her body's in the right position so she doesn't go flying off of it good save there crowd getting behind Brooke rabbit ooh is she's trying to flash problem number one get to the top on her very first attempt and earned a perfect 25 points just trying to set up for the jump she knows every attempt is important right hand his erin slips off but rabbit too is close but still plenty of time to go to make another attempt unfortunately she came up just a little short looks like she's gonna have to hop a little bit more really good from the start committed to that coordination double-clutch there to get into the 5 in the 10 zone set up for the stand up move to the 25 it looks like she just needed to hop in an upward motion a little more instead of going sideways second attempt for Brooke rapa two on problem number one missing that coordination that time third attempt for Brooke rabbit ooh on the opening problem able to get into the coordination jump that time smooth just like on her first attempt her 15 point zone is right above her head now you have one minute remaining back in an area where she's familiar needs to fix this just a little bit to make sure she gets high enough on to the 25 to lash it taking the time to chalk up after having her palms all over the 5 in the 10 zone she needs to make sure she has enough chalk to keep her hands for being too greasy setting up for her attempt to meet that 25 points on trying to find the right balance point here I'm gonna go for it just can't quite hold on with the right hand and with time running down she's gonna have to hurry to get back up there this is the fourth of ten for Brooke rabbit ooh on problem number one she will not be able to make it to the top but she does get to that fifteen point zones a good opening effort for Brooke rabbit ooh on her first of four problems here in the final round and that will bring out Siena cop for her first attempt the problem number one just taking a moment to brush the holes there first attempt for seeing a cop on problem number one really smart making use of that corner there to not have to do the double clutch right into the mantle and quickly to that 15 point zone slab is definitely an area where she's strongest in terms of angles when it comes to bouldering slab is this angle where it's greater than vertical you can almost stand there cop had her right hand on that 25 points own and just could not get her left hand on as well in order for it to count at the top you need a control with both hands Sanna cop was able to get up the boulder pretty quickly went for that 25 almost held it beautiful dismount nonetheless second attempt for Siena kapa problem number one using really smart beta here the way in which she did that move she avoids the double clutch that is another way to get to the 5 and the 10 so she makes it more static getting back to this position where we saw her on her first attempt trying to chalk up she means every bit of friction to get to that 25 right hand is there and not able to save it an unfortunate foot slip on her way to the 25 she was setting up for the jump and as she set up she kind of just fumbled her feet before she fully got to the 25 hold making her lose her balance and trying to fly off the boulder taking a few more seconds to brush [Music] third attempt foresee a common problem number one getting back into the five-and-ten zone pretty quickly she has enough time here but she definitely still needs to be cautious and she is on such a delicate angle quickly back to the 15 coins own now trying to get a hold of that 25 25 right hand and she is able to almost save it close but not quite for Siena cop fourth attempt for Siena comedy on problem number one was so close to sticking the 25 on her previous the time she's just trying to get back up there she knows she can do it she needs two hands to control the 25 in order to get the points going for it to beat the buzzer and once again cop is close to just cannot secure Oh hold on that 25 points down but a great effort for her cop will exit the floor and Margo Hayes [Applause] Margeaux Hayes has been well during finals nationally quite a few time so this is a familiar place for her taking a moment to brush the holds off as every ounce of friction is necessary also really important to brush the feet the shoe rubber definitely leaves some grease on the foothold so you want to make sure not only to have the best opportunity to succeed with hand molds but footholds as well Margaux haze on her first attempt on problem number one able to get to the five and then ten with ease she was extremely flexible nice on the bandsaw Hayes has secured the 15 coins own now trying to make that leap up to the 25 point zone right hand is Erin Hayes just can't hang on kind of an aggressive slip there from Margo Hayes it looked like she didn't have her right foot out enough on that blue volume and so she just kind of had to walk too aggressively and slipped as she was trying to control her momentum since she was able to get up so quickly on her first attempt she has plenty of time to kind of correct that minor mistake she had in her attempt to get to the 25 hold second attempt for Margot Hayes on problem number one smoothly getting into that five in ten zone section again you saw that zero wingspan that means that her waistband is equal to her height to the 50-point zones for Margot Hayes right body position looks like she's gonna go it should look like she was thinking of going a little bit more dynamically yep she's done tries Hayes at the right hand there and 25 for Margot Hayes as he gets to the top on her second attempt Margot Hayes the first woman to top problem number one three climbers are left on this initial problem we'll have them next three climbers down three to go on woman's problem number one and Margot Hayes just became the first woman to get to the top of that initial problem and she earns twenty four point nine points as it took her two attempts to get to that twenty five points on Brook rabbit - and CNN cop the other two women who have gone on problem number one Alex Johnson now for her initial ascent just taking a moment to brush those footholds and starting holds as they're gonna get the most chalked up and greased up before she tries her first attempt every attempt counts Alex Johnson her first attempt on women's problem number one good start trying to figure out how to get into the five of the ten here unfortunate little miss Reed of the body position there which she knows as she blurted out a second attempt for Alex Johnson on problem number one an athlete whose wingspan is two inches bigger than her height of five foot nine she's trying to find that rape body position smart use not exactly what I think the Crusaders intended but one of those moves were the more you try it the more you can get the feel for it with your body she's looking a little confused just looking at the clock for a second and trying to figure out how a third of 10-4 Alex Johnson on problem number one she gets to that ten point own and now trying to work her way up to the fifteen point hold she looked a little uncomfortable trying to get that second hand on but it was a really good safe she had to flex her shoulders to really stay on the five and the ten definitely in a more comfortable position here at five nine this move should be a little more easy for her though the start was a little bunchy for her being so tall Johnson trying to set herself for that move to that final twenty five point hold thanks save their little foot slip still needs to stay calm plenty of time to get this done trust your feet and another slip for Alex Johnson slip there the feet are definitely slippery although they're bigger they're very slippery so precision is so necessary in order to be successful on a boulder problem like this one minute remaining fourth attempt for Alex Johnson on women's problem number one twenty nine years old at a st. Paul Minnesota the wingspan that he's two inches longer than her height of five foot nine able to get back into that five and ten section I gave her a bit of trouble on her previous attempts trying to get out of this mantle [Applause] and now looking to secure that final 25 point hold right hand is there she is steady and Alex Johnson his top women's problem one really nice top there from Alex Johnson the beginning was a little bunchy for her but definitely more comfortable for her at the top of the climb she was able to actually use that wingspan that she has to stay on the 15 as she lashed the 25 making it a little bit easier to control her body and not fly off the boulder great star for Alex Johnson after some early struggles on problem 1 Alex Johnson becomes the second woman to get to the top their birth ID will be next up in climbing now they're just taking a few seconds to brush the hold as we will see most of the women do it's really important to get all of the chalk and the shoe rubber off of the holds so you have an optimal chance at each attempt Claire burr finds first attempt on problem number one another one of our taller climbers and it looks like this section at the beginning is a little tricky when you are taller though the end is a little bit more comfortable for you so it kind of evens out there nicely through the five-and-ten zone the refine secures the 15 and now looking to make the move to the 25 point zone she can make it on this attempt she'll receive 25 points a perfect score known as a flash getting to the top on your very first attempt just trying to find the right body position trying to be very delicate so she doesn't have an unfortunate slip if she could flash her it'd be really big for her right hand is on cannot secure it almost able to hold it there it's close to being able to keep her hand on the 15 she tried really hard but she kind of popped off the 15 and then had to pop her foot over and the swing was just a little too big to hold but really good first attempt so she should be able to fix her mistake with plenty of time if this Boulder done to women so far have gotten to the top of this problem her fine looking to become the third second attempt for Claire Brewer find on women's problem number one nicely into the five-and-ten zone trying to get through this mantle verified 20 years old out of Plano Texas wingspan three inches longer than her ie with that wingspan she should be able to span this move interesting that she does not have a talk bag when she has to be on these really tiny mold she's trying to find that right foot placement and hoping to control her body this time and a slip for burr find you need both hands on that final zone in order to get credit for it sometimes difficult when you're trying to focus on looking at the 25 you see she's looking and then her foot kind of slips you have to make sure you're paying attention to every part of your body so you don't let something kind of fall out a place and I think that's what we saw there clarifying a little too focused on getting her hand up a minute but was able to slip third of ten for Claire Brewer find on problem one-fourth of ten for Claire Brewer find on problem number one is the ten for clarifying [Applause] there's definitely feeling a little rushed by the clock right now trying to find that foot to get to the five and ten she's gonna need to move quickly in order to get back up and have a shot at swapping this Boulder problem she has the fifteen one more move remains to get to the twenty five in just seven seconds to go standing up beats the clock into problem one clairebear fine was feeling a little rush she was feeling a little rushed from the clock only had a few seconds left goes for it with just four seconds left gets one hand on and quickly is able to get two hands on able to keep that hand on the 15 which kept popping off on her earlier attempts crew doing a little work on the wall fixing the tape there on the ten-point zone claire burr fine now the third woman to top problem number one Margo Hayes and Alex Johnson the other two and she ma cherie she will be up next just stapling that tape into the wall a bit so that it doesn't fall off standing through five climbers she left to go it's Margot Hayes with a two tenths of a point lead over alex johnson as hayes only took two attempts to get to the top of problem one Alex Johnson needing four and it was player five who needed to five rabbit to a cop both getting as high as the 15 point zone five other girls have been she does make sure she has the best possible shot at being successful obviously she has faced nine total problems in this competition she has topped eight of them so far first attempt for Ashima Shiraishi on problem one wingspan equal to her 5 foot 2 height actually hasn't touched the 10 zone yet so she's looking to just skip it rolled manner she has the 15 securely in her left hand 25 points own Ashima is such a very technical climber comfortable on the slab always she can make it to the top on this attempt you'll get a perfect score of 25 points known as a flash she's just trying to figure out if she should go more dynamically or static right hand was there but Cherie she can't hold it really good first attempt by Ashima she she she was going back and forth with whether she should go dynamically or static chose the dynamic method the quicker more all points off method less in control but she needs a little height to get to that twenty five zone [Music] second attempt for a Sheba Sheree she on problem one decides to use the ten zone on her second attempt trying to get back into this position to set her up for the little hop to the 25 zone as another one the smaller climbers this move is going to be a little more difficult she miss Sheree she will tie for the lead if she can hang on but cannot secure both hands on the 25 point zone [Applause] third attempt for Ashima Sheree she on problem number one definitely has plenty of time to get back up she climbing section just really needs to figure out how she can get hold that she's trying to grab Sheree she leaping for the 25 the right hand is there again but just can't secure the grip and needs to get back on the wall quickly fourth attempt for Ashima Sheree she on problem one she's definitely running out of time trying to hopefully get a buzzer-beater send here last attempt for sure easy to get to 25 the right hand just slipping off so what happened for her Sheba Sheree she put a valiant effort in the process women's problem one is down three climbers topping three problems remain here at the 2019 bouldering open national championship three problems remain for the women in the final round here of the 2019 USA climbing bouldering open national championship and it's Margot Hayes who on her second attempt on problem one tops that Boulder receives 24 point nine points she is in the lead rabbit to cop and sharee she all made it as high as the 15-point zone on their first tries they are tied for fourth place right now we just saw a very technical Boulder we're about to get to a very different style of Boulder on an overhang which is a steeper climb gonna require more powerful movement and finger strength to make it through as well as body control taking a moment to look at the Boulder problem the women won't take as long to look at each problem as they did in the other round since they did have a preview but they still want to kind of refresh their brains with what they need to do first attend for brook rabbit ooh on problem number two coming off a 15-point performance on problem number one definitely needs to get a top here gets into the five zone pretty easily style of climbing that Brooke is very good at she's extremely strong fingers she can be super powerful even though she's small she can jump really well too to secure a 15-point zone and now needs to move over to the 25 point zone on her left trying to get a perfect score here top this Boulder on her first attempt and quick trauma 2 has her left hand their steeds the match at the right it's a flash for brook rama 225 points as she gets the top on her first and only attempt on women's problem two really nice climbing here from Brooke rabbit 2 extremely smart to use that high foot showcasing her flexibility and power and then overall finger strength as she latches that 15 zone and then smoothly kind of floats out to the 25 for a flash and a top on this Boulder 25 huge points for Brooke rabbit to who was able to top problem number one Siena cop is up next she also received 15 points on problem number one needs to make up some ground here climbers Siena taking a few moments to brush the volumes which are those geometric shapes that you see on the boulder problem with actual climbing holds attached to them first attempt for seeing a cop on problem number two unfortunate early fall therefore santa cop these steeper climbs are not exactly where she shines she's definitely capable of getting through this folder but the slab is where she second attempt for Sierra cough on women's two just trying to figure out exactly what body position that Siena needs to be in in order to make her way to that pocket cold which is the number five done taking a few minutes to brush pretty powerful move here it's interesting to see the different styles that climbers excel at third attempt for Siena cough on women's problem to 15 points on problem one currently tied for fourth place able to use a heel hook here to try and work her way through got her foot on the tiny foothold that blends into the boulder on that five zone now trying to get to the ten cops right hand slipping as she reached for that ten points own she was able to get up into the five found the small she's got a toe hook there I was trying to get to the ten and just came up a little short but she's now figured out how to start this border problem so she should be able to get back up there and give it another sauce go fourth attempt for Siena cop on woman's problem to 15 points on problem one looking to get to the top here as she is tied for fourth place in the overall standings with two problems remaining after this and another slip as she reaches for that ten points own it's a better attempt Christiana cop they're kind of setting up to punch out to that number ten zone a little more because she came up short the first time but unfortunately she actually missed the whole kind of overshot it so she just needs a little more accuracy fifth attempt for seeing a cop on women's problem too attempt number six for siena cop on women's two back in it trying to get to the five zone really needs to set up to kind of jump out a little bit really use her legs to punch out to that ten top is there and now still plenty of time the top this boulder can't get the grip on that fifteen point zone every point counts so being able to latch the ten on [Applause] a cop cop has decided that's as high as she was going to get on problem two was able to set up a little bit better here as she tried to kind of jump out to the 10 perfect accuracy this time wasn't quite able to get to the fifteen came up a little short and a little too wild on the swing Margot Hayes on the floor now Margot one of three women to top problem number one did that on her second attempt also is able to do a lot of the more powerful moves good on this angle pretty well-rounded climber so we should should see something pretty good coming tomorrow on this builder problem first attempt for Margo Hayes on women's problem to coming into this problem in first place overall after receiving a twenty four point nine on problem boil nice movement into that five zone looking pretty smooth here not showing much of a struggle setting up for the jump she has the ten point zone and now trying to work her way up to fifteen with her left hand and now over to twenty five is Margo Hayes looking for a perfect score of 25 points if she can get over to her left to get both hands on that zone and show control left hand is there the right hand is there at Margo Hayes Flash's problem to a perfect score of 25 points Margo Hayes her second straight top four climbers remain on women's problem two [Music] halfway through the field here in the final round of the 2019 USA climbing bouldering open national championship Margaux Hayes with a Purvis scored 25 points has the lead over Brooke ravaged by nine Siena cop is the only other woman who's gone on problem number two as Alex Johnson gets set to take on her second problem of this final round Alex brushing the holds here with that long stick brush that you can used to reach the higher hold and then she brought her own brush to brush off those lower holds because the handheld brush is definitely better for brushing holes but of course you can't touch any hole to pass the start hold otherwise it's an attempt so she needs that stick brush first attempt for Alex Johnson on women's two was able to get to the top of problem number one in her fourth attempt little slip there by Alex Johnson I expect her to do well on this Boulder once she gets into the pocket she has extremely good finger strength that kind of powerful move she's on right now is the only part that should give her any trouble but I think she'll be able to get through it second attempt for Alex Johnson on women's problem two looking to top the boulder for the second straight time getting her right foot here which puts her in a better positions now go into the five zone this jump out to the ten should be no problem for her does it smoothly setting up for this barn door I move on the 15 Johnson trying to work her way over to the final 25 coins own needs both hands on it in order for it to count gets the left hand solidly in place the right hand is there and for the second straight time Alex Johnson makes it to the top of the problem a little frustrated with her foot slip at the beginning really nice climbing sticks this cross no problem using her hip mobility to stay close to the wall and set her up nicely to get into the 25 over here gets one hand on and just has to match her feet putting both feet on the tiny little foothold and getting two hands on just two attempts for hours Johnson to get to the top of problem two and Claire burr find will be up next burr find also able to top problem number one did that on her fifth try first attempt for Claire Brewer find on women's problem number two looking for her second straight top after getting twenty four point six points on problem one and now a head early slip it's kind of tricky at the beginning where exactly you want to put your feet is kind of different for each person it looks like it's best to get your right foot on the tiny foothold that is also black so blends in with the volume that geometric shape that is on the wall second attempt for Claire Brewer find on women's problem two looking to add to her twenty four point six point total able to get her right foot on there and easily match the hold and into that five zone pocket pulled that she has only two fingers in setting up for this big barn door moves sticks it / fi needs to adjust and get herself over to the 25 point zone cross section left hand is there and now she needs to match with her right for it to count no problem and clarifying tops problem number two as she sets up to go to that ten hold she gets her fun on foot on and kind of hops to the ten and then this move to the fifteen creates a barn door as it's such a huge cross so you kind of fly out like a barn door and her feet actually come off and she's still able to hold it using all of her body tension and setting up to get through the rest of the boulder problem with ease good hip mobility staying close into the wall to make it to the 25 with no problem Ashima cherie she will be the final woman to take on women's problem - she was unable to reach the top women's problem one needs a strong performance here to stay in the mix at the top of the podium needs a strong performance but I have no doubt that she will be able to get through this Boulder on her first try that might be an aggressive prediction but I really think she will be able to do it first attempt for Ashima cherie she on problem number two trying to improve on that 15 points that she earned on problem number one unable to get to the top that additional problem and looking very at ease here and she works her way to that 10 point zone this is the only problem as she's a bit shorter but she has really strong fingers so [Applause] shuri she looking for a perfect score of 25 is she eyes that final zone looking super casual as she gets one hand on the leads the right hand there to match an ischemic sharee she flashes problem to getting to the top on her first try a perfect score of 25 points [Music] two problems down to remain as Ashima cherie she comes up with her first flash of the finals [Music] halfway through the woman's final round two problems are down just to remain and his Margo Hayes on top of the leaderboard just ahead of palak Johnson a Thurber fine mishima Sheree she with that flash moves into fifth and what rabbit two is tied with her both of those tied both of them tied for fourth place with two problems remaining gravity will be on first on Wendy's problem three Creek gravity taking a quick look at women's number three another more technical Boulder problem with a pretty committing final move that'll be really interesting to see these women on first attempt for brook rabbit two on problem three coming off that perfect run on problem number two that nerd her 25 points indicted for fourth place overall really tricky start there but not tricky enough for brook trout to having to start with that toe hook with her right foot and she loves a good toe hook so she's just trying to make her way in to this giant's half sphere volume she's on the 10th hole I was able to press into it showing so much body control and power and body tension as she blindly reaches down to that other volume with her left hand using all of her flexibility here every ounce of tension to stay on this slime right now lava to trying to get to that 15-point zone that is up and to her left with gravity showed us some crazy moves in the semifinal round when it came to her flexibility and body tension and all-around body control and she does it again right here but move up on to that volume and she gets the 15 question were whether they'll give her control of that she did have her hand on it but not for very long but now she's trying to work her way across to that final 25 point Holden if she were to get there she then reestablished his control on 15 this would be another perfect run still questionable whether she got 14 but it looks like she's gonna need to use again so she should be able to tries to go for this committing move to the 25 just trying to find the right body position I believe you're gonna want to try to get your palm out but I think she's gonna try to stand up on this left foot and reach her right foot up to get to the 25 now she's gonna set up for the job she makes to jump and just cannot hang on and she took a lot of time to get there but still has more than a minute for another attempt extremely close gets the one hand but not able to get that other hand up there to control the swing doesn't have a lot of time second attempt for brook rabbit - on women's three it's a very taxing beginning of this climb she was able to get through it on her first try she slips reaching for the ten point zone and now time really becoming a factor rabbit - calls that she was able to get to the 15 point zone on her first attempt she will exit the floor really good first attempt there my Rabb - here comes Sienna cop who is in sixth place overall still looking for her first top of this final round and only two boulders remain she's running out of time to get it and get herself into contention for a spot on the podium moment to brush the Hogs first attempt for seeing a cop on women's three she threw that toe in for the tow hook with her right foot she had to start on both holds with the pink pieces of tape before she could actually move so she had to control that start she's already through the five the ten working in this press section Seanna cop her first attempt on women's 3 moving past the 10-point zone and now trying to get a hold of that 15-point hold and can't quite get their little foot slip there but in a very good position to get back up to that part of the boulder problem as she has plenty of times left and she figured out the beginning pretty quickly I think she's gonna need to be in a little bit of a different body position in order to establish on that volume that she slipped off with her left foot on her first attempt just taking a few moments to breathe and look at the boulder just saw our judges that are behind her watching her every move making sure that they marked down every attempt properly second attempt for seeing a cop on women's problem three looking for her first top of this final round to the five and the ten gonna walk her way underneath this half sphere volume hold lots of pressing and body tension gonna slip again cop going back to the brush as she gets set for a third attempt remember you get penalized a tenth of a point for every additional attempt it takes you to get to the highest point on the wall third attempt for seeing a cop on women's three to the position she was in on her earlier attempts getting close to the clock countdown in for one minute another slip for cops now inside a minute [Music] here's the fourth attempt for siena cop on women's problem three can he back up into the 10 zone where she presses up against fear unable to get their 5th to 10th for seeing a cop on women's three running out of time here trying to make her way to the 15 zone at least because 10 is currently her high point getting into that 10 zone pressing up into the sphere what could be called the Atlas will direction suppressing up holding the world on her shoulders just can't bacon over to that 15 point zone CC cop will leave the floor still looking for her first top of this final round and she will only have one more problem in which to get is Margo haze is up next has topped both the problems she has faced and flashed problem to Margo is really good at figuring out her way through funky climbing and I think that this boulder problem could be considered to be full of funky not obvious movement she's also a very good sport climber has a lot of endurance and in sport climbing you're doing so many moves at a time so you get really good at becoming calm and working your way through moves without being frazzled and Margo does this so well Margeaux haze our overall leader after problem number two with her first descent here on problem-free gonna have to get into that press position slowly walking your feet because even though those footholds are big they are slippery and really pushing her hips into the wall to stay in control still plenty of time in this four-minute window for Margot Hays to make another attempt she has topped both of the problems that she has faced so far she's taking a few minutes to look at it really make sure that she doesn't waste an attempt for not looking fully at what is around her and kind of figuring it out overall leader after two problems Margo haze her second attempt here on problem number three getting back up into that ten zone where she has to start to press looking at that hold the white hold on top which I believe is for later but kind of checking it out good save there just trying to figure out how she can get out of this position really happy to press her face into that sphere volume gets her foot up putting her in a better position to reach out to this bowling bowled out left another foot slip there [Applause] [Music] admit it and have to go in a four minute window just because the climbing holder bigger doesn't mean they're always easier to stand on those sloping holds can be extremely slippery and you have to make sure you're pushing enough into them to stay in control of your feet as you into your way to the left on that Boulder Margeaux haze the overall leader after two problems this is her third attempt on problem number three looking to make to the top for the third straight time getting into the 15 would definitely help her the 10 is currently her high point going for a little bit of different way this time back down really just needs to find a way to get her hand on that left volume but struggling to get out of this press that looks super uncomfortable gotta fit up [Applause] Margot hates just can't make it happen and she's going to call it winter for the first time and then final round Margot Hays cannot get to the top of a problem three climbers down three remain here on women's problem number three [Music] the 2019 USA climbing bouldering open National Championship is brought to you by the North Face inspiring and enabling exploration since 1966 that is the cabin of one Rooster Cogburn the character played by John Wayne in the Western True Grit and it is going to take some true grit for a woman to get to the top of women's problem clay we have yet to see a climber do that three have attempted none have made it and now it's Alex Johnson's turn standings after problem two and halfway into problem 3 so Margot Hayes has made it through problem three although she did not top it so right now she has the lead over Brooke rabbit two by four point nine points Alex Johnson trying to close that gap if she can get to that 15 point own and has a chance to possibly take the overall lead if she can get to the top of this problem [Applause] show us the way second attempt for Alex Johnson on problem number three and she's having trouble just getting started here definitely having a little trouble establishing on the start holds her body keeps falling out a little too much third attempt for Alex Johnson here on women's problem free able to get to the top of both problems one and two Alex was just able to find a better way to approach the start of this Balder problem now making her way into the ten now needs to press into this sphere half sphere volume just you know carrying the world on her shoulders here the Atlas Builder as we'd like to call it nicely making it through to the other side getting her bright foot up and now she should be able to press into the volume if she can make it over to that 15 point zone she will take the top spot on the leaderboard with two climbers remaining here on problem three we just need to see if she can get her foot up on to where her hand is trying to figure out how she can good flick with your right hand to make it into the 15th don't think she the credit for it there so she needs to definitely try and put her hand on it again to use it that should be control of the 15 zone now Alex Johnson looking to move into the top spot on the overall leaderboard getting to the 15 point zone and now she's got to get over to the 25 point zone if she wants to this problem and keep her streak alive here in the finals into this right hand definitely wants to stay on that get the right-handed Johnson falls off so closer Alex Johnson trying to become the first woman to top this problem Johnson was able to get into a position we haven't jumped for the 25 almost held the swing and just lost it at the last second not sure if there's enough time for him to get all the way back up there again but she's gonna go for it final attempt for Alex Johnson here on women's problem three really needs to move quickly here and she knows it won't get to the top but she will find herself on top of the overall standings with two climbers remaining here on women's problem three one problem remains after that Claire burr fine congratulating Alex Johnson as her find is set to go they're stepping up to the start holds giving them a good brush to make sure they're at the optimal friction level for her attempt running through the boulder problem a little bit more definitely one of the more confusing folders of the round so far so it's always good to take a second look first attempt for Claire burr find on women's problem three trying to become the first woman to top this Boulder minor issues with the start she almost fell out but was able to save it with some good showcasing of her body control getting into this press we've only seen a couple of timers be able to come out of her find his off-time shin a little bit of a fumble change approach problem earlier I was a little worried that maybe there was a height issue here with maybe some of the climbers being a little too tall for getting through this press but Alex Johnson just proved that wrong so definitely possible here for clarifying it's another attempt for clairebear fine as she falls out trying to establish on the start when all four points leave the ground that counts as an attempt even if you're not even able to establish on the start so claire has lost a couple attempts without making any progress on the boulder which is definitely not what she wants to be doing in this finals round her fine solid so far topping both problems one and two running into some trouble here on problem 3 4th to 10th for clarifying on problem number 3 able to establish on this attempt looks like she may have forgotten what she did on her previous attempt having a hard time getting into the 10 where she's been but on a previous attempt her find is struggling here on problem three as the clock counts down sometimes you kind of start thinking about a few different things it's kind of hard to remember what you did fifth attempt for Claire Burr find on problem three solid so far topping both problems one and two it probably won't be enough time for her to top this Boulder problem since the top of his Boulder is pretty involved the tent is her high point so if she can just get to the 15 raise her points before this round and that's really important because with these climbers everyone's so close but it's not on that attempt Murph is not going to make it over the 15 as she is saluted by the crowd here in Redmond Oregon and she will leave the floor and that will make way for Ashima Sheree she the final climber to take on woman's problem will suit Asuma very well she's very good at finding the right body movement in order to be successful get herself into freezy positions that you wouldn't have even thought of and then she can get herself out of them so since this is a pretty involved folder problem I think she has a good chance of being successful and figuring out a way to do it we've yet to see a woman top it so first attempt for Ashima cherie she on problem three had a perfect run on problem two flashing that Boulder she got to the top on her first and only attempt 25 points if she gets to the top on problem three she would be the overall leader with just one problem remaining a lot of times you see her showcase her flexibility and her hips and her legs but pressing into that ten zone she just showed a lot of shoulders shoulder flexibility able to just kind of rock in and stand up underneath it gets her foot over on the left volume just needs to bring her hand and over that way as well you're gonna stand up here say mr. Ishii trying to get to that 15 point zone she's in a really good position trying to use the hold no one has been able to top this Boulder problem yet she's just trying to set herself up in the right position this is still her first attempt so she's trying to make it as efficient as possible clear control with her left hand on the 15 point zone so she will get credit for that now the question is can she make it to that 25 points own [Applause] [Music] [Applause] - press it maybe a little far for her so she Minds right expressing here and jumping see if she can get it done Sheree she goes for then she has it Shiva Sri she flashes clever free [Applause] such a delicate situation she wasn't able to reach out to that other whole bishop um so she went to hands which was extremely risky but able to control the swing and make it a top clutch performance from Ashima sharee she 25 points a perfect score on women's three and she is the only woman to get to the top of that problem and now has moved into the top of the overall leaderboard [Music] one problem remains in the final round of the 2019 USA climbing bouldering open national championship and it's Ashima cherie she on top of the overall leaderboard after back-to-back flashes on problems two and three but she's trying to hold off Alex Johnson on problem number four we just saw the women on a pretty technical Boulder problem that was on a pretty vertical angle and now we are gonna make our way back to a steeper angle where the women will have to have a lot of intention Travie to will be a verse on the fourth and final problem of this final round another one in the boulder problem sentence isn't as obvious as to what you should do oftentimes you spend some time looking at it and then at a certain point you just have to get on and feel the movement first attempt for Brooke Rabbit ooh on the fourth and final problem looking for her second top nice use of the tow hooks there at the start of this builder problem little jump for Brooke rabbit you but holding the swing really well showcasing how powerful this builder is just from the start able to get onto that sucked in she loves tow hooking so she's in a very comfortable position that position is not comfortable for every climber but for Brooke rabbit - she feels good at home they're trying to set up for the release to swing into the number-10 zone Roberts who can't hold on comes up a little short there it might be possible for her to move her feet in to the volume that was in between where she was talking we'll have to see if she tries something different second attempt for brook rabbit two on problem number four she was able to top the problem to the score 15 points each other problems one and three looks like she's trying to set up a little differently on this attempt leaving that foot free so maybe she can bring it in going back to the tow hooks gonna try to release her feet here looks like she's gonna try what she our first attempt swing a little closer can't secure the hold with her left hand as she was going for that ten point zone looks like she just needs a little bit more power to create a little more of a swing that brings her up into the ten she's coming up a little short right now she is in a very extended position currently so I think it's hard to generate power from that position in order to get to the ten plenty of time as she moves through these opening moves quite quickly attempt number three for Brooke rabbit ooh on problem for pinch hold which is a very powerful move the more she tries the more exhausted she's getting just three fingers on this next pinch train is set up to get to the ten really needs to generate some power here in order to get into the lower attendance the crowd behind Brooke rabbit ooh but it is not enough to get her to that ten point zone got her fingers in there a little more that time just coming up a tiny bit short again 30 seconds remaining attempt number four for Brooke rabbit ooh the fourth and final problem she's looking a little fatigued Linds attempt number five for rabbit ooh and she is just out of gas and they will thank her for her effort and Brooke rabbit whose competition is done really good climbing from Brooke rabbit ooh in this entire round unfortunately I don't think everything looks the way she wanted it to but she did it with style and a smile final problem of the competition Siena grabbing that stick brush to reach those higher holds and able to brush off the chalk that's there so she can have enough friction to stay on the boulder [Music] [Music] first attempt 4cn accomplices on problem for as yet to top a problem in this final round and would love to close things out getting to the top here thank you said the tow hook for the start able to reach to that pinch hold with her feet staying on the boulder she's a little bit taller so her reaches to her advantage they're setting up to get to the five pretty big power moves using your tow hooks to keep her as sucked on just can't keep her grip but she did get to that five point zone taking a moment to reassess what just happened plenty of time still wants to make sure she figures it out on the ground so then she can execute it when she's back on to the boulder problem driving that brush again the first hold that she's brushing that's on that volume that gray shape you see on the wall it's very small and it's also a dual textured hold so part of the hold is shiny and the other part has a place where there's some friction second attempt for seeing a cop on problem for nice reach to that pinch hold only where her fingers are is there friction on that hold where her thumb is that's where this the slippery texture back onto the five just can't hang on as she was looking to line up for a move today ten points out really good idea there by Sanok off to try and bring her foot into where her hand is looking like she was gonna try to do a hand heel match where she brings her heel into Hernandez that way she can suck herself into the boulder a bit more to then give her power to generate to that number ten zone Sienna cop is not in contention right now to win however remember points for the u.s. national team overall are on the line here in this event so every point in every position on the leaderboard matters for these climbers they can get this competition the better off they are in continuing their season attempt number three for seeing a cop here on the fourth and final problem of the final round see if she can make something happen here and once again the grip just not staying true for Siena cop as he looks to move over to the ten points known fourth attempt for seeing a cop I'm problem for definitely one of the more powerful boulders so the athletes are getting more tired on it she's really struggling and hang on there has her body pulls her off the wall thanks the crowd for their support and her competition is done and she will wait and see and find out where she winds up on the overall leaderboard and how many points she will earn as far as qualifying for the u.s. national team overall are concerned that will bring out Margaux haze for the final time haze coming into this problem with fifty nine point nine points Mario taking a moment to brush the boulders this is another Boulder problem where a lot of the skills that she has in her wheelhouse will serve her well really good with body tension really good footwork and body controlled taking another second just to make sure she knows exactly what she wants to do Hayes was in third place overall after problem three now in fourth place [Music] first attempt for Margo Hayes on problem nice start for Margo easily getting to the pinch old bicycle moved there with her feet where she presses with one against the world and then totes the other gets her foot up so much flexibility it's one of her many skills trying to figure out how she can [Applause] and haze his onto the 10 and now trying to work her way over to the 15 if she can top this on her first try that will move her into the top spot on the overall leaderboard and really put the pressure on Ashima suri she and Alex Johnson as they have yet to climb she knows save it really good effort there for Margot Hayes the Waco whole amazingly able to get her hand in there lots of precision there but just can't hold the swing gonna have to make minor changes in order to send this Mulder problem at least 15 points for Margot Hayes right now and that will be good enough to put her in the overall lead but remember mushy mushy Rishi Alex Johnson still have yet to climb this problem Margot's taking a few more breaths she knows took a lot of energy to get as far as she did on our first attempt second attempt for Margo haze on problem for Margo really using all of her technical skills to get her through this tricky beginning a middle section of the boulder fell on our first attempt with one hand on the finish hold looking to get back up there [Applause] [Music] this is where first climbing experience will come into play where she can dress just a little bit and really be set up nicely to have all the power she needs to get to that 25 old Hayes trying to add to the 15 points that she has already received getting to that 15 point zone on her first attempt put the pressure on the overall leaders here not all climbers have the ability to kind of recover the way Margaux Hayes is recovering right now on that hold to the 15 gonna set up for this jump again now one final move to the 25 boys own 15 seconds to go he's at the right of left hand there can see control that she does and Margaux Hayes Tufts problem for and she is in the overall lead [Applause] Margeaux Hayes the first climber to top problem for but the overall leaders still to come [Music] back inside the Deschutes County Fair and Expo Center as Margo Hayes on the right of your screen just became the first woman to get to the top of problem 4 and she is on top of the standings eighty four point eight points but Ashima sharee she and Alex Johnson have yet to get to the wall Margot Hayes hoping she has done enough to end up on top of the podium here at the 2019 USA bouldering open national championships Alex Johnson the next to attack problem number four Alex Johnson teeny a couple moments to brush the hold as we've seen most of the competitors do when they step out onto the floor while you're brushing the holds it gives you a chance to also look the boulder over one more time even with the preview it's good to know it's kind of hard to remember exactly what you're gonna do on every boulder after a two-minute preview on each one so another glimpse is always a great way to set yourself up for success if Alex Johnson is able to top this problem she would be the new overall leader first attempt for Alex Johnson on problem 4 if she can get to the top she would take over the top spot on the leaderboard for Margo Hayes and I'm sure she already knows that this Boulder has been tough after hearing the crowd roar getting in the nice position to set up for that move to the 10 zone just gonna need to make her right foot in there I think it look definitely possible to do it this way but I think she'd be set up better if she could get her right foot they're gonna do it anyway Johnson through to the 10 and now needs to move to her right to get a hold of that 15-point zone and she is there Alex Johnson flirting with a perfect run here on problem for that would put her in the overall lead 25 points and she is the new overall leader [Applause] Alex Johnson worked her way through this folder with such finesse really comfortable the entire time definitely a style of climbing that she's really good at really good body control able to get into the ten not too difficult to move for her to get to the 15 and this kind of jump move is something that Alex excels at I was not worried at all as she was getting ready to jump to this wake I'll hold six at one hand able to match and extremely excited to be topping the fourth boulder problem in this finals round and Alex Johnson went out sit and wait and she has overtaken Margo Hayes who was on the right of your screen now in Johnson on the left how is Johnson your new overall leader and clarified the fifth climber to take on women's problem for Claire shaking out a little bit to get ready to attack folder number four first attempt for Claire burr find one problem for looking for her third top of this final round they're moving nicely into the pinch fold with her left hand setting a bicycle here switching just to it so her trying to get into the number five holes using her toes toes to hold her in to the wall looking to make room on that right hand to bring her heel and very nicely gonna easily make it into the ten with that set up we're fine has a hold of the ten and now over to the 15 [Applause] Johnson flashed this Boulder and burr find is flirting with a perfect score herself right hand for prophytes he controls it in the left hand a flass for Claire / fun than 25 points really great climbing they reckon they're very fine unfortunately do not think she'll be able to catch outs Johnson but she will move up in the rankings she was twenty nine point nine points at behind Alex Johnson so yeah she cannot catch her in the overall standings but what a performance from player birth extremely great performance from Clara sets up for this jump hits it nicely her left hand actually slipped but she was able to control the swing anyway clairebear fine topping three of the four boulders here in the final round and one climber remains and that is Ashima sharee she has these five women are all through and it's Alex Johnson on the left of your screen who right now is your current leader with eighty nine point four points Ashima sharee she comes into this final problem with 65 points meaning that sharee she is going to have to top this final Boulder in order to win this competition there's a look at where we stand right now is Sheree she the only woman who has not gone after problem number four currently was 65 points and again overall standing here matters as well as these women are trying to pick up points that will help them qualify for the u.s. national team overall here comes the Sheba Sheree see the final climber to take on problem for their family looking on Shima taking a second to look at the boulder definitely needs a top in order to win she has a little bit of room for error because she has she can have five full Falls and still win but of course she's gonna want to try to get this done as fast as possible first attempt for Ashima cherie she on problem for if she tops it she won't win she was definitely capable of getting a top on this Boulder problem nicely into the bicycle there to set up to get to the five just needs to be able to generate here my guess would be that she tries to bring her left or right foot and where her hand is in order to easily make it to the 10 zone bringing that one but in showcasing that flexibility that she's known for setting it up to try to end this round with a flash that's what remains between Ashima suri she and a national championship she has to get to the 15 and then over to the 25 safely to the 15 one movement remained as Alex Johnson our current overall leader looks on here 2019 USA climbing bouldering national champion Mishima was able to read that builder problem extremely well showcasing so many it's such an open folders rock-climber she's never won an open bowl during national title she's won many you but this is the first open bowl during national title for her so I'm sure she's extremely excited Ashima Sheree she your 2019 USA climbing bouldering open national champion the women are done and it's a she ma cherie she in dramatic fashion the men coming up next [Music] the women's final is over and it's a she Missouri she who is your 2019 USA climbing bouldering open national champion a total of 90 points she flashes the final three problems and edges out Alex Johnson by 0.6 points Shima Cherie she is with Meagan Martin Ashima you climb so amazing all weekend and I know what the combined Invitational your performance wasn't exactly how you wanted it to end so how does it feel to walk away with a win here at bouldering nationals I'm incredibly happy and I did not really expect this to happen because building can be really tricky for me and you know I'm like leaders more of my main discipline but I'm so happy that's amazing and I know you're living in Tokyo now so how does it feel knowing that the Olympics are gonna be there and I mean after winning this you're in a better position to possibly make that overall team so what are your feelings towards that I guess the Olympics is one of my main goals obviously and it feels great to have like family there and training there has been really cool so I'm really excited for us in the future well thank you so much and we're really excited for what's in your future too congratulations Ashima cherie she faced 14 problems this weekend she got to the top of 12 of them the men coming up next as we look to crown another national champion [Music] back inside the Deschutes County Fair and expo centers as the men are now on the floor previewing their four problems in the white tops is someone I know you expect to do very well here yep definitely expect for drew on us to continue with his amazing weekend of climbing he's been on every day and actually has gotten better and better he started off well in the qualifier and then in the semi final today he was absolutely on point so I expect him to have a lot of success here today in the final nathaniel coleman is someone who very well could have been the top qualifier but just a fraction of a point behind rowana coming into this finals nathaniel is also having an amazing weekend and he is one will open bouldering nationals two times already and actually the last two years he has not fallen at all he splashed all four Boulder problems so we can never count out Nathaniel Coleman Nathaniel Coleman drew rowana and the four other finalists reverse order based on how they qualified Ramana being the top qualifier will go last and Sean Bailey will lead things off the men have two minutes to preview each Boulder what can you get accomplished and that small amount of time two minutes is a nice chunk of time to you know get a feel of what you need to do you can kind of get a feel of the diversity of the boulder so when you are in the qualifying round and the semifinal round you just don't know what you're gonna get from Boulder to Boulder so this way you step out you know that Boulder number one is a steep Boulder for example and you know that you're gonna need a lot of energy there so you've got to be really smart with your tries and then maybe if your next folder is a slab you can you know push it a little more because you're not gonna use as much energy as you do on those overhanging climbs so you can kind of just have a little bit more of a strategy going into that final round the men will use every second available them to get a good read on these boulders we'll be back with the final round when we return the men continuing to preview the final four boulders here USA climbing bouldering Open Championship of course a national championship is the main thing that is at stake in this event but also the same thing that was at the sake for the women these men trying to finish as best as they possibly can overall in this event to earn points to get them a spot on the u.s. national team overall which is basically the first step towards getting yourselves to Tokyo in 2020 and the Summer Olympics only one of these men currently has a spot on that team and that's Zach gala was feeling the holds on male number three right now even though he has a spot more points are better for him as well so he's going to be looking to get it's very high stakes here for these men as they are looking at problem number three they're able to touch the start holds but the start holds only can't come off the ground at all but they can feel those holds as they talk to each other to figure out exactly what they want to do on the boulder problem of course people will do them differently a lot of times because we have people of different heights everybody has different strengths when it comes to climbing different styles so being able to talk through it is nice but it doesn't mean that they're all gonna do it the same way and that's one thing I think some people who might be new to the sport might find surprising is these men are competing against each other yet they're out there they're talking things over with one another that's really one of the things I love most about the climbing community there is a real sense of community and just support from climbers everywhere I mean you go climbing outside and you can meet people that you've never met before and then you know climb with them on a boulder for a few hours and feel like you walk away with a friend because this community is just so welcoming and so supportive and that's always been something that I've really loved about this community overall final six men going through problem three and their time is up and now they will move on to problem for earlier in the day we were able to speak with Brad Weber who is the chief route center for this event and it is clear that this final boulder is going to be a challenge for these six men it's the North Face route revealed here we are one of the men's finals folders is a gymnastic dynamic test piece we're here to kind of showcase the gymnastic movement on the boulder to the crowd and for the competitor so we're here to see route setter Garrett try the moose we'll see how he how he does the idea here is that he's gonna carry his momentum throughout this in cut start hold hopefully he doesn't have the ability to stop on the first hold and he has to carry through to the second and third one - that was really close that was super exciting so he's starting the idea is he has to generate his momentum in order to gain the second hold and then hopefully he carries his movement through to the following hold oh it doesn't look like he did so well there grabs the first hold ah I was really close one two oh man so one two Wow and then the third hold that was really cool one Wow one two three and you did it and thankfully no Garrett's were harmed during the making of that video man they put him through the rare they really did and I mean when the roots that are set at these competitions they actually set the finals boulders first so after he did that he actually had to then continue to set all week and a four run which means the route setters try the boulders to make sure that they're the right difficulty for these climbers all week so very difficult therefore ferret Gregor but as you can see that section of the climb hurts watching the men and he is upright you that Boulder looking like he is no worse for the wear fortunately but that section is definitely gonna be very difficult and you know we're gonna see some exciting movements like swinging probably some good Falls and hopefully some success on that Boulder problem preview time is up and now the man head backstage they will not be able to watch each other climb they won't be able to glean any hints from another climbers performance and Sean Bailey will be the first man on men's problem one although they can't watch anybody climb the crowd is a good indicator to how other people are doing so when you hear a big roar it's likely that someone top the boulder so it kind of adds pressure coming out first like Sean Bailey is kind of a great place to be because everything you do is new to the crowd so the crowd will help you kind of keep that momentum as you're climbing up on the boulder hopefully make your way to some success Sean Bailey just taking a moment whenever he turns around that's when his clock starts [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] Baili sizing up men's problem number one first attempt for Sean Bailey on men's problem number one his wingspan a plus three meaning that it is three inches longer than his five foot six height and five six is kind of on the smaller side for the men's field so that plus three wingspan will be really helpful setting up in this stem trying to reach over to the actual textured part of that hold that white part is extremely slippery but underneath where he's grabbing is textured so he's able to keep his body close to the wall and hold on Bailey moving over to that 15 point zone and then it's a straight shot up to the 25 this is a really cool move where you'll have to use your thumb in order to match on that finish hold no problem for Sean Bailey as he flashes probably the perfect score of 25 points this boulder problem didn't really give him much difficulty the one-legged squat stand up done with ease finds his balance position to them bring his left hand in and match that Boulder with a nice flash of Boulder number one will be up next it's really exciting to see Manny Hong out here I don't think he's done a competition actually at all in about three years attempt number one for Maddie Hong on problem one really nice to see him back on a compass hit competition scene he's been focused a little more on outdoor climbing and also filmmaking so it's cool to see him here in the final he's always been a talented climber just trying to work his way through this section quite taller than Sean Bailey so he's gonna have to find a different body position and balancing spot in order to stand up to get to that tent here's attempt number two for Matty Hong a men's problem 1 5 foot 11 from warmer Colorado in a wingspan that is three inches longer than his height man he's just trying to find how did you get stood up on this giant black rappers oil looking volume here he is off a 511 it might be a little more difficult for him to stand up and some of the shorter competitors that's one of the coolest things things about climbing is there's obviously different heights so people have to adapt to their height and figure out how they can do things with you know the height that they're given approaching the halfway point of this four-minute window third attempt for Mattie Han on Ben's problem number one hailey the taller athletes here in the finals at five foot eleven the waistband three longer than his height really needs to get into this ten zone cuz it currently has a zero that's plenty of time to figure out how to get up there tried a different approach on that attempt at trying to sit on the right volume to shift his weight a little and find that balance this problem with no five-point zone fourth attempt for Maddie Hong here on bench probably one and he slips right off the bat money definitely getting a little frustrated as that clock counts down he is a seasoned competitor and climber [Music] if the temp now for Mattie Hong on men's problem to number one it's still struggling just pointing this apart amount of quite a few times here as he tries to make his way up into that number turns on come on attempt number six for Matty Hong men's problem one he gets to that ten point zone really important for Matty right there to get points wasn't able to continue progressing but the ten will be definitely helpful attempt number seven now for Matty Hong immense problem was trying to use his heeled this time to get up into the 10 zone 10 there is no five zone on this builder so the 10 is really important here looks like he's in a better position now he needs to move quick but if you can get to the 15 that will help them out a lot Matty Hong just cannot get there so disappointing start for him but he does get to that 10 for his own Dillon barks is up next Dillon barks Quan and their trainer who took a little break from competing oftentimes with climbing since there is outdoor climbing as well not everyone is focused on competitions all the time first attempt for Dylan barks on problem number one five foot nine from Ann Arbor Michigan and a wingspan two inches longer than his five foot nine height Dylan got into that press on the number ten zone with ease able to use his heel look when you started now walking across this volume with a lot of caution so it's a big hole it's very easy for your feet to slip getting into that more secure position setting up to get to the 15 Dylan bars was able to touch 15 he does need to show control to get credit for it was just one hand and now he's got to get both hands 25.7 looking to flash this problem and get to the top on his very first try nice in here Dillon Barnes 25 points as he flashes problem one three climbers down three to go as we are in the opening stages remains final [Music] the 2019 USA climbing bouldering open national championship is brought to you by the North Face inspiring and enabling exploration since 1966 a beautiful Central Oregon sunset behind the Cascade Mountains we are in the Deschutes County Fair and Expo Center as that gala will be the fourth man to take on men's problem one so far Dylan barks and Sean Bailey both flashing this problem for a perfect score of 25 and in his Maddy Hahn getting to the ten point first attempt for Zach gala as he added four on men's problem number one same height as his wingspan had a Suwanee Georgia just 18 years old and playing with some house money as he had he's already qualified for the u.s. national overall team courtesy of his win a couple weeks ago at the combined competition in Salt Lake City zach is definitely in a great position because the pressure is off a little bit although I know he would be extremely excited to become a national champion so though he's in a better less stressful position having already been on the team he's really looking to walk away with the win she was having a bit of trouble trying to figure out how to stand up on the start on his first attempt just needs to find the right body position attempt number two for Zack gala here on men's problem one the 80 year old from Suwanee Georgia with a wingspan that is equal to his height at five foot seven inches exactly able to quickly get to the 10 zone on his second attempt trying to figure out how he can get into the good part of that hold because only part of it has texture going a little too quickly over to that 15 point zona he is off definitely needs to go with a little more static or slower and more controlled approach focus more on walking his feet emphasizing the use of his footwork to get to that other volume Galla here on men's problem number one he has already qualified for a spot on the United States national team overall thanks to his win a couple of weeks ago in Salt Lake City at the USA climbing combined Invitational Zach Jeff's tried to use a dynamic approach again to get to that volume when he really needs to walk his feet as far right as you can on the volume in order to slowly get in to that dual text volume hold to make his way to the 15 through to 10 for Zach gala events problem number one trying to become the third man to get to the top of this opening problem much better bethe for this move able to in here is the 15 to figure out the right position to set up for this Thunder cling move barely can reach it but he can reach it he chose problem number one flash would have definitely been better since this Boulder problem has been flashed but topping this problem keeps him in the game able to get both hands on that volume get out into the 15 really has to reach for this he's kind of at his extent like on his full extension but he's able to do it and make a top on that first Boulder now it's Nathaniel Coleman's turn on problem number one Nathaniel has yet to fall in a final in the last two years first attempt for Nathaniel Coleman the 22 year old out of Murray Utah 6 feet tall but a 6-2 wingspan starting off on this Boulder problem nice and smooth slowly walking his feet over trying to find that right position to where he can release the left hand and get into this volume gets a pretty good grip on it in a nice position to make his way to the 15 just has to get that first attempt on men's problem 1 looking to get to that 15-point zone and then straight up to the 25 just used to get his last 10 in that right position now flip it really nicely done by Athena pulled in they just need to stand up trying to keep that body tension without falling out holders left hand flirting with the flash and he get in 25 points for Nathaniel Coleman a perfect opening run for him Bob Benson Robin you know Pullman trying to continue has no fall and final streak here that will give way to our final competitor here on men's problem 1 drew rowana the top man out of the semifinal round that was held earlier today [Music] first attempt now for drew rawana 19 years old out of Redmond Washington standing up really nice and smooth here slowly walking his feet over just needs to get to that good part of losing his balance slip for ruana he will not flash this problem we have seen three men do that already four of the six have gotten to the top we want to try to make that number five second attempt for guru Juana amends problem one drew back into the position where he was on his first attempt trying to be a little smarter here making sure he's in a steady position before he fully commits to that volume oh nice save there that left side of the volume ERG is squeezing it's completely flickering he just made that section of the builder a lot harder than we've seen in the other men in the competition's do it has the 15 and now needs to stand up and control the 25 win both hands is to get a little bit higher up on his feet in order to be in that right position [Applause] [Applause] he toughen problem boy [Applause] three problems are left as drew ruana gets to the top of problem one action continues here in Oregon when we return back inside the Deschutes County Fair and Expo Center as we are through one problem of four in the men's final round and we have a three-way tie for first place as Coleman barks and Bailey all flash problem one getting to the top of their first try it's drew Juana and Zack Galilee other two men who were able to top that opening problem Sean Bailey will be up first on men's problem two men's Boulder number two is a very different style than some finger strength necessity first attempt for Sean Bailey on problem - and he's going to abandon that immediately and asking the judges if this has not been established yet you have to make sure you have two hands and your feet on in order to start and you can't jump show that you have established setting up for the jump here attempt number two for Sean Bailey on men's problem two coming off that perfect performance in problem number one that earns him twenty five points and on to the five point zone and is now trying to make his way up to ten able to do that second move static instead of having to jump which will save him some energy now the more technical part as he makes his way wrestling with these volumes on the 10 barely a great fight to hang on yes it goes straight up to get to 15 and then over to his right using a knee bar there to keep himself sucked into the wall set up nicely for the second straight time gets to the top [Applause] really nice climbing from Sean Bailey unfortunate first attempt wasted but able to redeem himself and make his way through the boulder problem with no problem holding on by being able to flip that left hand and keep him sucked into the wall with that wild swing gets that left hand on sets up for the jump uses his foot to stop him from swinging into the wall controls the finish and walks away with his second top of the round Maddie palm will be up next after Sean Bailey for the second-straight problem gets to the top Maddie really needs to get a top here definitely a boulder problem I think he could do well on he's also a very good sport climber these kind of moves are definitely in his wheelhouse first attempt for Maddy hung on men's problem - he was the only climber not to get to the top of problem one so he needs to score some points here and keep himself in contention and an early slip Maddy chose to go with his right hand I think the left hand makes it a little easier to come into that number five zone attempt number two for Maddy hung on men's problem - and successfully over to that five boards own Maddy decided to do a more dynamic movement by jumping into that five zone gets his left hand on the volume here but that's not the ten the 10 is actually on that small blue hole that he now has making his way through these powerful integrable body tension specific moves to get to that tiny little trim slipping on his attempt to get to that 15 point zone now going to the brush Maddy hog needs a really good performance on this problem after he was the only climber to not get to the top of problem number one he's definitely capable of topping here the move that he fell on on his previous attempt one way to correct it would be to make sure he opens up his hips a little more so that when he tries to get to the small crimp he gets there he gets high enough on it in order to actually hit the friction part of the hold because there is a very slippery third attempt for Maddie hung on men's problem too as he makes his way over that [Applause] made it through this section pretty easily cut his feet and then really stay tight here to wrap up on this foot to get high enough Oh mrs. Ames a little too high and misses the actual crimp hold on that volume Mattie hon a little bit behind the 8-ball now is again the only climber not to get to the top of problem number one has to find some way to score some points here on problem 2 to keep himself in contention for a spot on the podium he still has plenty of time to get back up there he just needs to make sure he's resting enough which he's currently doing a good job of resting because this angle is unforgiving your body is engaged the entire time and you need every ounce of energy [Applause] fourth attempt for Mattie hung on men's problem - has the five now looking to get inside a minute to go in his four-minute window maybe a little tired this needs to be a little more precise on this movement here gets it definitely finish to get his left heel up unfortunately slips on the slippery part of that tiny little crimp not a lot of time for Maddie Hong has to get himself back on the wall just 30 seconds to go attempt number five for Maddie Hong here on men's problem - he is going to bow out so Maddie home - problems and unable to get the top on either one so far that will bring out dylan barks barks one of these three men to flash problem number one and earlier in this competition is a qualification round ellen marks actually the only person to do men's qualifier number two proving that he deserves to be in this competition and in this final [Music] first attempt for Dylan Bart's on problem number two looking to stay perfect really execution there on that jump setting the seal in ice to move pretty quick through this next section it's really powerful you need to try and keep all your limbs on quick-release able to get to that [Applause] fifteen points gunning for his second-straight flash trying to get to you can't keep his left hand on the 15 point hold where his right hand was is a small crimp cold that he actually just slipped off of I believe we would call that more of a slim / it's kind of a mix between a sloper hold which is usually hard and slippery to hold on to and a crimp hold it's just not as in cut so you can't fully bear down on it with your hand you kind of have to keep your hand open making it harder to continue to have control of the hold and that's a look at the target that he's trying to grab on to on that 15 point zone at the top they're basically just a little bit better than the actual volume it's just a little more surface area to grab on to but not that helpful second attempt for Dylan barks on men's problem two looking to get to the top for the second straight time here in the final round through that jump again setting up for that release needs to move officially through this section now another slip for Dylan barks Dylan keeps looking at his fingers hopefully he's not bleeding but those folds are not forgiving they're extremely abrasive and after climbing on this texture all weekend your skin gets very thin and oftentimes climbers end up with bloody fingers by the time they get to the final such a small that has been the nemesis for Dylan bark so far third attempt now for Dylan bars on Ben's problem two inside a minute to go in his four-minute window Dylan has gotten to basically the same spot on every try unfortunately just slipping very end once again that's the move that has been giving him problems and he is stuck on that transition from the ten to that volume that holds the 15 point zone with Sean Bailey already having two tops this would be an important op for Dylan barks to stay in front a fourth attempt now for Dylan barks on problem two three to go action continues here at the USA climbing 2019 bouldering open national champ three climbers are through men's problem two here in the final [Music] championship Sean Bailey is getting credit for a flash on problem 2 that gives him a perfect 50 points Dylan barks and Maddy Hong the other two men who have gone after men's problem too so Coleman rawana and gala their attempts coming up and it's gala who's getting set for his ascent Zach will have just heard that announcement that Sean does get awarded the flash on Boulder number two so this is more incentive for him to try and flash this Boulder now as well [Music] first attempt for Zach gala on problem number two he was able to get to the top of problem one on his fourth attempt trying to swing looking for some style points along with actual points on this Boulder problem working his way up into this volume kind of taking a different approach than some of the other competitors have really gonna try to flash here getting into a better position now he's gonna have to release trying to find an optimal position to release without flying off on that precarious volume a crowd try to encourage him here he goes to keep moving up and gala has the ten and now trying to make the move to the 15 just can't find the handle spending all that time trying to figure out that section really fighting for the flash definitely zapped his energy a bit more trying to maneuver his way up into the 10 as you can see there is barely any texture on that hold it's mostly shiny so he's only gonna use about three fingers on that hold and then comes with a little short trying to get to that next small crimp it's really needing to shake that probably pumped him out a bit and his forearms meaning his forearms have gotten a little bit fatigues there I'm trying to hang on for so long now that he knows what he needs to do he knows he can get back up there he just needs to make sure he finds enough energy to do so attempt number two for Zack gala on problem 2 looking to go really nice swing action at the beginning there from Zack gala just needs to get through this section a little quicker than he did on his first attempt to make sure he has enough energy to get through the rest of this builder problem able to set up a bit but is able to save it anyway that's the he'll to come into the 15 now he has to set up for the nice matches with his left in for the second three times a gala tops a problem in the final round [Applause] really smart and efficient climbing there from Zack gala after a little hiccup on his first attempt he was able to throw for that finish hold no problem fully in control celebrating early before he actually matches and gets the top on problem number two giving him two tops so far in this finals round Nathaniel Coleman is up next just two climbers remaining here on problem 2 you know hoping to flash to spoiled her after he knows that Sean Bailey has already after hearing that announcement come through first attempt for Nathaniel Coleman on problem to perfect on problem one really nice dynamic movement there into that number five zone hold and then just floating to the other side of the volume effortlessly now he has to figure out how to wrestle through on these volumes just trying to keep the tension with his legs and bring his feet up nice rap there with his right hand kind of punching of using his knee there for a second it's what we call a knee bar just a chock up for a second Coleman saw him hold there with his right hand and now gets his left hand on 15 look into flash problem too if he can make his way over to that 25 points own Coleman does it two for two for Nathaniel Coleman Pullman trying to keep that record of not falling in a Finals this is now the third year where he is trying to flash all four of the finals boulders and he is off to a great start with that amazing performance on Boulder number two keeps him even with Sean Bailey who also has flashed the opening to problems and drew rowana will be the final man to take on problem number two first attempt for Drew ruana on mens to really nice movement there from drool on it it's been really cool cuz every man has kind of done that first move a little different just showing how diverse climbing can be not this slip that he wanted to have right there kind of misread his body positioning there but it is early still more than three minutes to go in his four-minute window just needs to take a second and step back and kind of see if he can figure out a way to get through that section a little more fluidly and with both Bailey and Coleman flashing the opening to problems there is not a lot of room for error for drew ruana right here attempt number two or guru wanna on problem - it took him two attempts to get to the top of problem one looking to match that now on problem two nicely through that first section of the boulder just needs to figure out the right way looking a lot better here on this attempt nice release bringing the feet in now he can get to the ten punchy little move here got to get his left hand over now gets credit for the fifteen and drew wanna if he can make it over to that twenty five points out had his right hand on and left hand slipped up now he has control and Truvada has top problem to really close therefore drew wanna almost had a slip as he tried to bring rose hands up to that finishing hold able to save it in another top for drew on us two problems remaining for the man in the final round [Music] only two problems remaining for the men in the final round here and Nathaniel Pullman and Sean Bailey tied with a perfect 50 points after two problems we mentioned that Sean Bailey got credit for the flash on problem two the reason being is that he was called off on his first attempt because the judges thought that he put his hand on the wall where it was not supposed to be upon review that was not the case the head judge overruled that and they gave him credit for the flash attempt number one for Sean Bailey on men's problem three this timing is known as a slab it's a lower angle so oftentimes you can rely on your legs worn you usually don't see the kind of dynamic movement so really cool setting here done by the route setting crew shot really just completely in form right now making his way through this Boulder problem all the way to the 15 already just needs one more move Sean Bailey looking for his third straight flash trying to stay perfect here in the final round [Applause] inching closer to that 25 points own [Applause] three flashes for Sean Bailey in a perfect 75 points after three problems Sean Bailey is currently on fire after a rough start this weekend in the qualification and then barely making it into the final out of the semi finals he is just crushing it right now Matty Hong is getting set to take the floor and he has yet to top a problem here in the final round getting to the 10-point zone both times on problems 1 & 2 Matty could really use a top here he is a very technical climber so there's definitely a possibility to see that from him first attempt for Matty hong on men's problem-free looking for his first top of this final round at 511 he is a bit taller and able to just throw his leg and then do a press a little less dynamic than we've seen this done by other competitors inching his way up focusing on his footwork in a nice stem position there still has to make his way to the 15 a little more of a committing move here nice balance there fifteen point zone up and to the left for Maddie Hong in the position he's in now the 15 isn't really that good but once he can fall into it on the left side it'll be much better for him so we just need to figure out how to get into that better position on the 15 zone really shoulder intensive Boulder problems lots of pressing and stemming here's the second attempt for mannitol problem three centers are really giving a lot of diversity here in this round as we just came from a very dynamic gymnastic Boulder now into a pressie STEMI slab Boulder we're subtle movements are so key in order to find the right body position Madi Hong doing a great job trying to figure out how to get in the proper position to get his foot up on a ten but we'll send him up nicely to go to the 25 he has the 15 and now just cannot hold it to get up to the 25 what's very unforgiving about this angle is any slight body slip and you could be off the wall you can go from being in such a secure position and then you could even just breathe too hard and kind of fall out so it's really important to stay calm and keep your movements very subtle and cautious so that you don't mess up and just lose your balance [Applause] [Music] attempt 4 for Matty Hama men's problem 3 as he approaches just 1 minute remaining in his four-minute window for his first top of this final round inching closer and closer to the top on every attempt figuring out this bolder one attempts at a time obviously always better if you can get it done in fewer attempts but hopefully Matty is able to find that right body position stay close enough he has the 15a crowd getting behind and trying to will him up to that 25 points own Maddy Hong just cannot get there and he is going to call it so the farthest he's gotten on any of the problems so far as he got to that 15 point zone dylan barks will be the next man problem three barks flashed problem one and then got to the ten-point zone on problem to dylan taking a quick look here before he steps on the first attempt for Dylan barks on men's problem three tries to go with more dynamic betta just came up a little short trying to press up on that start hold with his left hand just needs to be a little more aggressive this time attempt number two for Dylan barks on problem three they able to get his arm straighter that time a little more leg throw and I think he'll be able to get into that dihedral there there's a temp three for Dylan barks on three another cool climbing movement where the more times you try it the more your body kind of learns it and you know what you need to do in order to make it work for you had a great start as he was able to last problem one for a perfect score of 25 points but a problem - just getting to the ten point zone so he needs to score some points here to keep himself in contention good job of using those little movements a quick little off-balance bobble there taking a moment to brush the hold as it becomes more and more chalky and greasy because his feet are going there as well here's the fourth attend for Dylan barks on men's problem number three gonna have to try a little different way here just can't find his way through after that ten points own but plenty of time for Dylan barks he's looking for his second top of this final round able to flash problem one the dynamic movement he tried on his previous attempt looked promising definitely possibly the way for him to do it fifth attempt for Dylan barks here on men's problem 335 points after the first two problems if he's gonna do it the dynamic way I think he's gonna need to inch himself up a bit more doing that right now just so that he can stand up a little more to throw himself into the 15 looks like he might try to go more static by bringing that right foot in right now as close to the wall as possible to get to the 15 almost marks just cannot hang on now inside a minute [Applause] woman's flying this now getting a chance to be spectators as Dylan barks on his sixth attempt here on men's problem three I'm not sure it's enough time to top but if you could get the 15 it would help but not sure again attempt 7 for Dylan barks on men's three as he's running out of time [Applause] he really needs to get that 15 not gonna happen for Dylan barks three climbers through problem three three remain [Music] final round of the 2019 USA climbing bouldering open at national championships continues as Zach galloping onto the floor he will be the fourth man to attempt men's problem number three Sean Bailey currently in the lead he Dylan parks and Maddy Hogg have already gone through problem three and Bailey has been perfect so far 75 out of a possible 75 points so far Nathaniel Coleman though yet to go early slip for gala on his first attempt attempt number two for Zach gala on men's problem three Zach gallon so into a split there it may be better for him to be a bit more dynamic here's a 10 3 for Zach Keawe on men's problem 3 has topped the first two problems able to make that split work for him at the beginning of this Boulder problem nicely into the 10 another problem for the men where there is no five zone so the ten is extremely important to get to otherwise you could end up with zero trying to figure out exactly how he needs to get into this 15 trying to press might need to do something a little different there snack gallon running into a little trouble here on problem three he has topped the first two and given with Sean Bailey has been doing he's going to have to get to the top here if he wants to stay in contingent at least for the win definitely put him in a good place just for the podium as well just to get another top good idea to be brushing because the men have spent a lot of time hanging out on those volumes because they have to figure out the right body position so they're getting more and more greasy as we get through this finalist fourth attempt for Zack gala on men's problem three and slipping again early on as we have seen in two prior attempts still has a lot of time attempt number four for gala on men's three really needs to figure out how we can get to the fifteen to them progressed into the twenty five just shuffling his feet there we're trying to stay low on this whole works well attempt number five for Zack gala on men's problem three is working his way to that fifteen point zone now up to the twenty-five had this right had their needs to match it with his left hand [Applause] tennis third-straight top for Zack gala gala had a little fumble there on the 15 was able to save it and then nicely get into the 25 a little unsure here with the match went with the tension move just press in and was comfortable enough after he managed to bring his hand all the way up to celebrate another top in this round now it is Nathaniel like Sean Bailey perfect through the first two problems and he's going to need to flash this problem if he wants to stay tied with Bailey for the overall lead both Nathaniel and Sean were on the podium at the combine Invitational so the position they're in now they're in a good place to keep improving points to hopefully make that overall national [Music] first attempt for Nathaniel Coleman and this will be the first time that he does not flash a problem here in the finals [Applause] second attempt for Nathaniel Coleman on men's three perfect through the first two problems and since this is a second attempt that will mean that Shaun Bailey will be all by himself in the overall lead after this problem he was able to correct his mistake from his first attempt and throw his right leg into that right volume where it is right now with a little more power which was able which made him able to stand up into that corner a bit more unfortunately it's over so he needs to get a top here to stay fighting for that number one spot [Music] shoulder control into the 15 second attempt now for Nathaniel Coleman on mens problem 3 looking to get his third straight top flashed the first two problems and now on to the 15-point zone if he gets to the 25 point zone he will stay a tenth of a point behind Sean Bailey Coleman has his right hand on that 25 points own needs to get his left hand up there in order for it to count and now resetting and topping for the third time in this competition in keeping the pressure on Sean Bailey for the top spot on the overall leaderboard there has to be a little bit of relief having now fallen for the first time in two years in a final there's no more extra pressure they're really smart and cautious movement here as the Daniell kept his body as the wall as possible in order to set himself up nicely to match this finish hold using his toe on the 10 zone here's a temp number one food you want up really nice movement into that number 10 zone both Sean Bailey and Rwanda were able to make that first move first try trying to subtly oops unfortunate what's there vada is off he has gotten to the top of the prior two obstacles on his second try taking a few moments to brush those holds so plenty of time to figure out what he needs to do to get into that 15 zone here's attempt number two for guru Lana on problem number three having reached the top on the prior two problems it's moving to the 15 is a little tricky because there is a certain level of steadiness but then also aggressiveness which duo on adjust performed well that needs to be made in order to make it into that 15 now trying to climb his way up to the twenty five point seven has his right hand on it and matching with his left in the third straight time it's two tries for Truvada and he will top Ben's problem three one problem remains for the men here at the 2019 USA climbing bouldering open national championships [Music] just one problem remains for the men here at the 2019 USA climbing bouldering open national championship it's less separating first from fourth Sean Bailey has been perfect so far flashing all three problems that he has faced Coleman two flashes Amanda took him two attempts on problem number three just a tenth of the point behind that man Sean Bailey who is looking for a clean sweep trying to earn 100 points here in the final round it is a very close competition right now between Sean Bailey an Athena Coleman but this boulder problem could create Falls because this first move which is a very difficult triple clutch to catch we saw this folder earlier performed by Gary crater and it is quite the feat [Music] first it's after Sean Bailey on the fourth and final problem been perfect so far here in the final round [Applause] they pible here and actually sticking that triple clutch on the first try the boulder is not over but he is looking to have a perfect round here she's on to the 15 how to be in control against the forehand he's there and shot Bailey is perfect 100 points in the final round [Applause] doing the unthinkable on this very difficult men's number for Boulder problem almost fully pause on that first hole when he jumped to it and able to execute that triple clutch clearly on walking on air right now he jumped to this he actually paused here for a second and then able was to regrip and then move his hands to the second and third hold nailing the triple clutch then fluidly making it through the rest of the boulder a little slip-up here before fitting to the finish you know he wanted it so bad was able to reach to that 25 hold bump his hand up get two hands on and he is our new national champion Bailey wins the 2019 USA climbing bouldering Open national championship and we still have five climbers to go on this fourth and final problem 100 out of a possible 100 points flashing all four of the problems here in the final round Mattie Hong stephannie first attempt for Mary Hart on the fourth and final problem Maddy almost able to fully control that first hold I know the route setters didn't exactly want people to be able to fully stop on it so the fact that he was not able to fully control it it's definitely what they wanted second attempt for Maddy Hong and just can't get the grip on that thing and he saw an example of that earlier when we watched the video of the route reveal of this fourth and final problem here's attempt number three for Maddy no problem for still trying to fully pause and control that first hold instead of continuing his momentum to the left to stick the triple clutch he definitely has plenty of time but he's going to need to try something different in order to make this happen fourth attempt from maddy home here on problem floor and just can't make that transition but picks himself up and he's ready for another attempt with the movement on with his right hand on the last attempt he now knows what he needs to do here's attempt number five for Madi Hong on problem for and makes it the farthest he's gotten so far Madi Hong has the right idea he just needs to continue that momentum to one more hold after he gets that second hold he needs to move to the third hold in order to stop his momentum attempt number six for Madi Hong on problem for nasty-looking spill Sean Bailey can't believe that one one more look at the fall here from Maddy Hong kind of hits the blocked hold and kind of nose dives into the pad there taking a moment to pump up the crowd this is attempt number seven for Matty Han on his fourth and final problem and he has the hand hold looking to get to that ten point zone and over 215 the route setters intended a triple clutch but Matty was just able to do it and here he has top-4 Maddy long as he touched the choc baggage John Bailey and the two of them are done as Maddy Hong saves the best for last and gets the top of problem for to close out his final round here comes Dylan barks he will be the third competitor on this bondage problem and even though John Bailey has locked up first place remember placement matters because points to qualify for the u.s. national team overall are up for grabs here first attempt for Dylan barks on problem 4 and the spills will be plentiful on this final problem dillan taking another look at that jump sometimes it's not so obvious so you need to take another look attempt number two for Dylan Boggs on problem for really nice movement there uses momentum to get into that second hold kind of to holding on too long to the second holding kind of killing his swing to get into the third to stop his momentum and continue on through the problem step number three for Dylan barks on problem four and now is short-lived after every attempt Dylan is figuring out a little more and more about this jump it's a very learned movement as he's getting closer and closer to sticking it this triple clutch that is so difficult attempt for Dylan barks a problem for that tricky first part and trying to get his way to the tenth Lloyd zone he has it now over the fifteen and then a final move up to twenty five right hand is there trying to match with his left doors will top problem 4 but as Sean Bailey who's wrapped up the top spot on the overall leaderboard but we still have three climbers to go on problem 4 [Music] halfway through the fourth and final problem and it is Sean Bailey on the right of your screen who is locked up the national title and now the battle for the podium and the battle for those valuable qualifying points for the u.s. national team overall is underway almost be able to stick that triple clutch move on his first attempt you could see as he was moving his hands from hold to hold he was kind of figuring out what he needed to do as his body kind of pushed him through the movement a little late in hitting that last left hand hold but he should be able to figure out on this attempt attempt number two for Zack gala here on problem four looking to [Applause] definitely able to figure out that jump just after that first try because he was in such good positions now just going for that top here and Zack gala closes out his competition with the top I'm problem for the men are really making this bull der it looks super fun just like swinging around out there as if they're on the monkey bars now gala can relax and watch the final two climbers Nathaniel Coleman is up next he has been nearly perfect in this round flashing problems one and two and then it took him two attempts to get to the top on problem three first attempt for the Fanueil Coleman on men's problem for able to make that triple clutch successfully on his first attempt he's had one fall in this competition so far and he's looking to make sure he doesn't fall again Holden in style and flashes men's problem for great climbing there by Nathaniel Coleman this is a type of movement that he excels at so much just using his momentum to get all the way into the triple clutch first try no problems getting to the finish hold great way to end the round for Anna Daniel's woman in a great spot right now [Applause] Nathaniel Coleman thanking the crowd and then joining his fellow competitors in the spectators area drew on a first attempt on men's problems for and just slipping as he makes that second movement run up with a smile on his face epic fall therefrom drew on a these Falls are crazy but everybody looks to be dealing with them alright he just kind of hung on to that first of all a little too long and it kind of killed that swing that should propel him through to the next couple of holds to complete the triple clutch but it is a movement that is learned and these climbers are so good at learning movements quickly so we should be able to fix it here tenth number two through who wanna on the fourth and final problem that is able to hang on great quick fix there by true wanna setting up here to go for the top in a great position with a nice heel hook for and with that the 2019 USA climbing bouldering open national championship is over and it is Shaun Boone who is perfect in the final round who takes home the national championship and we will hear from him when we return the 2019 USA climbing bouldering open national championship is brought to you by the North Face inspiring and enabling exploration since 1966 how do you spell perfection but here in Central Oregon they spell it s e andy12pam03 looking like yourself in the qualification and you narrowly snuck into the final so how does it feel to not only have a perfect round but also win the national championship feels so good yeah I'm on top of the world honestly I don't even know what to say yeah I just I had a rough start I wasn't feeling as strong as I felt in the past and you kind of just have to work that you have I felt like it wasn't able to give as many attempts as I have in the past so I kind of had to use my energy wisely and for me in this final round I was just able to do everything first try and it didn't matter so much like a little more rest and time and at the combine Invitational you were a third place so winning this competition sets you up nicely to possibly be on that overall team are you looking forward to the possibility to be doing more World Cups this season and hopefully go for it in 2020 in Tokyo yeah I mean I'm just I'm just rolling with it because there's more World Cups I've done the past three years or so so I definitely like the experience and love to keep down for sure well we're rooting for you and thank you so much and great jobs mate Thank You Sean Bailey your 2019 USA climbing bouldering open national champion for Meagan Martin I'm Sean woodland thanks so much for being here with us in Oregon all games airing on the ESPN networks are streaming live and archived on the ESPN app this has been a presentation of ESPN [Music] you

Channel: USA Climbing

Views: 812,678

Rating: 4.7479372 out of 5

Keywords: USA Climbing, Bouldering, Sport Climbing, Speed Climbing

Id: lr6zkUmcaoE

Length: 174min 40sec (10480 seconds)

Published: Fri Sep 27 2019