IFSC Climbing World Cup Meiringen 2018 - Bouldering - Finals - Men/Women

[Music] [Music] [Applause] [Music] good evening and welcome to Switzerland is a FSC Boulder World Cup final number 1 of season 2018 in we live in the beautiful Swiss village of miring and I'm Charlie Bosco got professional route setter Mike Langley alongside me this evening for the finals and we have a slight change in 2018 all the bouldering finals are going to be split they'll have the women followed by the men this evening it mosque will be men followed by the women but every final will be split so you will see every move from every climate in every final Mike it's not the only change we've had this year been also a slight tweak to the scoring system yeah there's two things we got to be aware of going into the 2018 season first thing is simple it's a word change bonus is out and zone is in it's exactly the same thing works in the same way but it's just we're gonna be calling it zone hold rather than bonus hold the second thing although it doesn't have seem to have had a huge impact on the results so far this season it's just the importance and the the way that the scoring is ranked so there's a bit more of an importance in terms of progression on boulders whereas before it's just all about the tops and the number of attempts two tops now it is still about the tops but after that it's about the number of zone hole to get then it goes down to number attempts on tops and zones so yeah doesn't see if I've had a huge effect on the competition yet but it's gonna be a slight change yes slight change in emphasis we've got the same four tiered scoring system and it's the same for measurement but as Mike said the zones now ranks ahead of attempts to top in the scoring system so the scores are written slightly differently and it also makes a few changes to the scores and the outcomes and which potentially will make some changes to the tactics as well that we might see employed by the climbers as ever when you get a rule change time will tell credibly strong field in both the men's and women's side as you see there the four women on the right-hand side all previous World Cup winners sander and Latin out of Austria second from the left there looked an imperious form in the semi-final she hits the final as does fantasy bear the French champion in and the men's side also for previous World Cup winners field of seven in the men's because in the semi-final we had a three-way tie between those guys don't want Chyna Lexi rubs off on you and a cruder just to let you know they're starting order in the final is determined according to world ranking with the lowest ranking climber at climbing first that they were tied in the semi-final and they're climbing order is determined by world rankings a year and a cruder being the lowest ranking of the three he climbs first followed by alexei followed by jang won-jun and then we're in order of qualification from the semi-final obviously totally we're gonna be concentrating on the women's competition first and what an incredibly stacked finals field not too many surprises going in to define who would say but one standout performance with the only top I think it was on women's number three Sandra letting affirm Austria yeah we were slightly worried in the semi-finals you might have seen it earlier polities if you saw it and experienced some of the audio problems we were told we're having but sir women's three in the semi-final perhaps looked as if it had been slightly overcooked by the route setters and then Sandra Letner absolutely strolled up it casual sender yes so she's a surprise package no one really knows what to expect from her not a huge amount of pressure but she looked like she can really mix it in the rarefied air of a World Cup final here is the start list six women through climbing in reverse order for how they qualified in the semi-final so Fanny she-bear will be out first followed by that lady we were just discussing Sandra letting a me here nanaka Shawn accordion yagamoth and the Kia Noguchi the last four climbers out world cup winners all and Mike it was the veteran of the group Akira Noguchi who really caught the eye in the semi-final yeah I mean she's been in the game a long time I think we were looking earlier 31st is a worst ever World Cup result that was in a speed competition back in the day and she is just incredible and she looked incredible all the way through the qualifiers and the semi finals just a technique was perfect strength looked unbelievable and a mental game but absolutely switched on yeah so Barbie be tough want to be a cure tonight I think first three male climbers out will be the three that were tied in the semi-finals he owned a cruda delicacy rips off jang won-jun and then it will be tome up to Tom out a key to Qatar Manuel cornu tomorrow narrow sake and Jakob Juba again the veteran of the group Jakob Schubert looked extraordinary in the semi-finals look powerful look confident look mentally in the right place and a bit like Akio I think he's going to take some beating here admiring it yeah totally agree Charley and I come all the way through the semi-funny he actually came out really early on in the semi-final so he was actually quite close to being knocked out from the qualification round managed to scrape through I'll say the qualifying boulders yesterday morning were a touch on the easy side to say the least so who went through and who didn't a few big names did miss out it was close for ya Cobb to be knocked out but he's gone through and he's gone through in the semi final on an absolute flyer and he looks just in the best physical shape I've seen him in years not an ounce of fat and look super psyched to go with it and you know when we talk to him he's mental game is just so strong and he's just a fantastic climber to watch so I'm really looking forward seeing ya Cobb battle it out but with four World Cup winners in that top men's group that's gonna be gonna be really tough made his first World Cup podium last year we could see that now moving over to men's - it's a reasonably steep wall here in my ring and there's only two slabs at either end it's unrelentingly physical particularly for the men they've got two very long boulders this being one of the men's - yeah the wall here is a brand new wall and let you say it's a super steep wall and I think that's really played into the hands of the roots it hasn't played into this style my interesting actually through the qualification round and the semifinal round a bit more of a traditional hard climbing competition set it in something yeah yanking yard was it was described as pulling really hard on quite basic holds all the way through the qualification round the semi-final round I think the climb is quite enjoyed that not too many circus tricks but have a look at these bowlers especially men's - on the left-hand side completely different story now I think we've got a lot more flying around a lot more of a show there's a big crowd in here and I think the route setters wanted to put on something a little bit special that's not to say there's not some tricks in there as well some standard normal climbing there's a bit of everything and I think looking at the boulders anyway I'm really excited about tonight's final yeah absolutely we were down on the mat so half an hour ago just before the open the curtain so that the crowd could see the boulders and you can't fail to be impressed as Mike said I wouldn't say we've gone quite so far as parkour style there's not really too many runs or anything like that but a lot of very dynamic climbing you can see there - Monera sake conferring with his team-mate you don't like the look of a few of these moves there's quite a few dynamic moves but plenty of pretty straight-up hard climbing so I think looking at it really nice combination from the route setters of the new style and the old-school yeah I think possibly I don't want to say too early but for me this set of finals Eva suits yeah quarter MOA miss easy sakes at the top - but men's number two is a is basically a four-way jumps like a one two three four and land into a nice bucket as you can see in the far blue volume there's a huge round holding there so you've got to make a distance of a good four meters across the wall one volume to free and land in the in the jug of the bottom anyway that's what the route said is intended looks like it's going to work to me but we will tell you no climbers always find a find a method whether it's the one that the route setters wanted or not we'll see but we're with a always with the World Cup it's a long day and Jakob looked like I said it looks in great physical shape and wherever that means these fitness is really there for the whole of the day and maybe maybe he's got that endurance but it's really hard to say it's the first World Cup you can see the Merrigan wall in all its glory it's a huge wall and a lot of it is very steep pushing five meters high so the route says have had to be slightly careful about how they set to prevent the climbers ending up too high off the mats you can see that the climbers observing if you're just tuning in this is the observation paired for the climbers they get two minutes on mass to observe each Boulder they're allowed to touch the starting hold but Noah that you could see jeong-hwan Shaun may be touching but not quite but it's a yeah they can search the starting holes and they get two minutes on each Boulder to unmask try and figure it out yeah the third boulders are both on the wings of the competition wall here and they're both a slab both are pretty much traditional slab climbs I would say sort of teetering on the feet men's has got a bit of a bizarre section in it and I think there could be a few thrills and spills to say the least we don't give too much away at this stage climbers will tell the story for us later on and I'm really looking forward to that but the women's as they had they've had this side of the wall during the qualification and the semi-final and they're back on this wall again so they know this angle now they they know what to expect and it was actually Janna and Akio on that right-hand side really in the semi-final who who performed really well on that slab so they'll be quite confident I think when they come up to that woman's number three yeah you might see a chap on the right-hand side of your screen there we have got a mobile roaming camera on the mat so we should get some amazing angles but apologies if we occasionally see him in our wider shots but that's why he's there during the attempts he'll be able to capture some pretty unique shots as well I think one thing to note during this observation is because the finals is now split they've got probably I think the ball here has gotta be at least 30 to 35 meters wide and because the fine was split they only need to climb four four boulders and they're not trying to climb eight boulders for us so they can cross the boulders quite a lot if they needed to so example you're just on women's number for the orange holds there's a yellow Boulder right next to it and they're very close to sharing and that doesn't matter too much and it's not necessarily about the position of the holes but it's more about the position of the climbers as they fall off you don't need to worry about that too much there's there's not gonna be men and women climbing at the same time and like you said earlier Charlie gives us a real opportunity to focus really on the ins and outs of every move and I'm so excited for this final yes a nice luxury for the route setters because whilst they've got to fit all the boulders onto the wall they've got a huge canvas to play with because as you say there's only going to be one climber on the wall at any time they can have them flying around in all directions without worrying about them hitting anyone else or interfering with someone else's climb it's allowed to get them to get very creative so all the climbers will finish pretty much in the middle of the stage here in the semi final we went right to left a bit more jumbled at this time but as you can see steep boulders that's on the very steepest section of the wall here 30 degrees overhanging 40 in places it is a steep wall but they have got a slab edge but do you think particularly in the men's side there are physical boulders and their long boulders as well time will tell that woman their closest to the camera a key Noguchi she looked absolutely superb in the semi-finals bruised up women's 1 which stopped some pretty handy climbers including that lady that has shown a see the only woman to ever win a World Cup in my ring and she won in 2016 at the inaugural marrying him woke up and won again in 2017 both years going on to win the overall World Cup title yeah I mean she's got me confident going into the final again you know she's won here twice nobody she knows what it feels like to win in Merrigan but also interestingly we've shown us she's a bit but tough kind of time in the last couple of days I would say kind of got for a qualification but by the skin of her teeth she had this injury with a finger all through the winter is that playing on her mind is it not how bad is it only she knows and got through the semi-finals again classic Shaun are just sort of strung out made everyone feel a bit on the edge of their seats but truly you know it's always hard to better get Shaun who isn't it it's an interesting one because you say he's got the injury she definitely didn't enjoy the qualifying boulders did what needed to be done didn't absolutely crush the semi-final I mean in the last couple of years we've kind of got used to her just topping every round and cruising to victory at times but surely she's going to have a challenge if she wants to make it three out of three and Merrigan just reflecting back to marrying in 2017 the way that she she was the only climates do all four borders and just looked like she was on a on a warm-up tour really I don't think that's gonna happen tonight now we could see there panning across the wall as I say it's a brand new wall here and bearing and first time it's been used in house MCS in action as I say it will be the women climbing first we'll have the whole of the women's final followed after a short break five to ten minutes by all of the men's final then um Caesars getting the the crowd going doing a nice dance there I like that yeah this would look hilarious on mute but luckily we can hear what they say he's getting the crowd to SAP their feet build in the atmosphere we've got a really good crowd here in miring and as we did in 2017 and 16 in year you can see it Mike and I with a pretty plumb view that's us up above the house little mountain festival banner much of a better viewpoint yeah but one thing to note here is in this basically effectively converted set of tennis courts for the World Cup here it's a great venue but it does get really warm in here and last year that maybe it had an effect maybe it didn't but the competitor is definitely saying it was quite hot on the warm up to 32 degrees it on the wall laughs last year where there's a bit different this year not quite so hot but it is definitely warming here some climbers gonna like that some climbers definitely not gonna like that so we're gonna be interesting to see if that plays too much in the hands of one climber or another you know it's gonna be an equal challenge that's the main thing and I mentioned earlier that the temperature has changed a lot here in the boulder arena when we arrived or earlier in the week Wednesday Thursday it was cold in here and when we were setting up the cameras and getting everything ready for the livestream it was still cold and then it suddenly got very warm today the lights are on the Crowder and here it's completely changed at temperature the route setters are used to that and it seemed like they did a pretty good job in the semi final but it's something to be aware of they will have set in very different temperatures which just adds an already another element to an already difficult judgment to make yeah just talking about the route set as I just caught a few of them in the corridor just before we came up for the live stream and I asked them if they were happy if they're confident and it was all smiles all around so the semi final performs from the roots s perspective was excellent and I think they've carried that confidence through to the final it's a it's risky to be confident before a final but I think they're they're really trying to put on a show tonight just trying to figure out which bowler this is the steepest section of the wall that's woman's one I believe men's four meant for I stand corrected there we go women's four immediately to the left of it they look like they cross over but as we say because we've got a split final don't need to worry about that I think what we saw Charlie in the semi final round we talked about this a little bit was rather than having one stand out massive jump or something like that each Boulder has an a timing element multiple timing elements to the moves in within each boulder fit a lot of very droppable moves throughout each Boulder I think it's there's an element of that here tonight but you have the classic smash jump as well as well so I think there's gonna be a bit of combination with all the styles and we're gonna see a lot of toe hooks a lot of tow hook release moves and a lot of places to fall off and that's what it's going to come down to it's a number attempts I think great clothes that we've got the cameras pretty well positioned here today got every angle covered you won't miss a single move you're not gonna miss those dance news either that's that's the key no no think the crowd are ready to see the athletes nothing against your dancing abilities of the MCS it's gonna be Fanny G Bert who's gonna coming out first and Charlie she had a fantastic offseason yeah French national champion in some countries to be the national champions pretty impressive in France it's extremely impressive you think about how many strong climbers are are in that country yet Fanny geebeare looks absolutely superb in the Sammy's already won the French national championship she is my bet for a big result this year I'm not going to make a film prediction but I think we're going to see Fanny view about the business end of a few more World Cups and who knows maybe a podium and a medal and who knows what color it might be so that's my prediction I think she's got a big season coming up but don't forget she was so close to being knocked out coming through here as well there's a strong appeal Jessie pills fell out of the last hole she had a huge dug in hand and slipped off and that put her in her ow traveling and stayed in the sixth position yeah if you saw our semi-final broadcast earlier Jessie Piltz had both hands on the top hold over the last Boulder but just couldn't quite make it stick and wasn't awarded the top I'm told that there was an appeal but I'd have to say it was a fairly clear-cut case she never really controlled the top hold yeah it's so hard to watch and you got a feel for really but I mean that's the game is so easy to fall off at any moment can't you can't relax and so you got two hands in control on that finish hold it's a local venue MCS enjoying the spotlight rather too much I think it was ready for the athletes that's a as we mentioned Fanny geebeare will be out first and it is an extraordinarily strong fighter we've got fanny G Ben Sundra lettner and then everyone else in the women's final has won a World Cup before won multiple World Cups before I think Sandra Letner is one to watch here because she may not have the experience he's so young who did win the overall championship and Innsbruck in the youth back in when was at September last year but the way that she performed on that hard Boulder in women's I'm phreak gives you a little bit of an insight to how strong she really really is and if there's a boulder it requires some straight-up brutal power I think she might be the one to watching this women's final great view of the crowd packed out here in the boulder arena but the temperature as I mentioned is going up it's been firmly down jacket weather even inside the venue not tonight yeah very knowledgeable crowd as well I think a lot of them are taking their seats for a few hours they can't wait for this to start beers have been flowing the melted Swiss cheese has been going strong as well and unfortunately not being make the most of that you see there where is one on the left-hand side of your screen that will be the first Boulder climbed yeah yellow and the black volumes not much in the way of physical respite for the climbers tonight as there wasn't been the semi-finals I think the women have had it particularly tough as well they climbed second yesterday in the qualifiers tough physical semi-final around and then they climbed first in the finals tonight of course the ifs e does have rules so that the climbers get a stat sheet compulsory amount of rest but even so it's a lot of tough World Cup level boulders to deal with yeah I think quite a short space to type I think that's a new challenge you've got the rule change and you've got the change of the split finals there's a couple of new things for the athletes to deal with hopefully they'll just focus on the game focus on the boulders and focus on the challenges ahead and I'm sure they won't be worried too much about the changing in the rules but if it comes down to the number of zones or the number of attempts four zones or fingers at changing the rule they they could just be using slightly different tactics maybe towards the very end of their four-minute time allowance I think that's going to be one of the big changes actually towards the end of the four minutes attempt remember each climber gets a maximum of four minutes four flat minutes to attempt each boulder and we may see that if they don't have a zone in the bag already even in ten seconds to go even though they've got no chance to the top they might fall on just to get that zone whereas in the past it might not have been worth burning through the attempts potentially burning in the attempts this year we might see them pulling on right at the last second just to get the zone if they feel they can just as you can see they're on the wide view we're quite close to the start the composition here but you can see that all this competition is sponsored by flat hold and cheetah - fantastic climbing brands and a lot of brand new shapes on the wall this weekend which means the climbers wouldn't have planned on a lot of shapes before and that's as fantastic for the start of the season opens up a really fair competition and it looks like we're gonna make a stop yeah and the owners of chetan flat hold Lolo Laporte and Manu Hassler respectively both here and partner route setting team Luna Laporte's absolute legend of well not really just route setting climbing is the chief route setter here let's see what he's got in store fanni underway and you can see is straight into it the women in the semi-final started on a slab and the final the straight into steep overhanging of physical moves no problem straight up sand zone so that's a flash on the zone for Fanny super flexibility and power as we come to expect from here so far reason be untroubled the route setters tend to have a relatively fast bowler up first of the crowd get into it the athletes get into it and this is going pretty well so far for family she's matched on the zone just pops off yeah I think should be a bit this point into that was quite interesting right at the very start there so you tried to drop into a knee bar incidentally and that's obviously something that she read during the observation period but being such a great athlete light years she just realized it didn't work and just went straight into a plan B as it were quite surprised she kind of came off where she did there possibly a slight show of nerves for those of you just joining us Charlie Bosco here professional route setter Mike Langley alongside me hashtag ifs CWC let us know on Twitter what you think predictions always welcome almost guaranteed to be better than mine but I do think this lady here who's got a big 2018 ahead and you can see off there the women's number one is yellow but there is a lots of red holes onto the right-hand side the route has have involved with any black tape as they assume it's basically impossible to use those holds they will come into action later on and looking forward to seeing that one but at the moment it's all eyes on Fanny G better she has a very big crowd all eyes on her because she's out there on a road yeah I think climbers who necessarily haven't necessarily been on many big stages will add an element to it being alone on the stage only makes it that fit more scary all eyes on you Fanny G bear cruisin so far no problems up to the zone last time just got off balance and just peeled off the hold ups for that so at this time I was gonna say also toe rather than Hill but drops back into the hill but as with a lot of moves this weekend it's about the release and here we go jumps out the hill drops into the right toe that was absolutely perfect textbook toe catch moves exactly what the root set has wanted to achieve that's the second to last hole she's on now she's heading for a top she could be a heavy amazing start there it is top number one second attempt for Fanny G bear she got the zone on the first go Tom on the second go good start for here and I'm his behind the wall will be well aware what just happened there's a way that she dropped into that toe was really impressive just she knew what she had to do fired up to the left hand and just just come short on the replay there but the way that she did there the lower section dropped into the right toe hook on that black tee two-volume stacked on top of the other black volume that was really really impressive and a classic timing movement and really good stuff yeah I think she might be slightly frustrated she didn't get the whole thing first go because on the first go she cruises the lower section on the second go she cruise the top section but not a bad result gets back in with a minute to spare she will hit everyone else behind the wall we'll see her come back a minute early and we'll have heard the crowd so they'll be well aware the Bowl has been topped the next hour will be Sandra Letner now we talked about climbers that haven't perhaps been on the big stage that many times Sandra firmly in that category and they're absolutely wonderful in front Knuth World Championships in 2017 won the youth a combined but marrying and believe it or not is her first World Cup and she's in the final you know this is gonna be really interesting that we know she's got the horsepower how she got the mental game her coach Ellie houses was basically by her side all the way through the isolation saw them early on we don't know basically we don't know what's going to happen what what can she do in a final situation absolutely immense more than deserving of her place in the final and again no problems up to the zone less than 30 seconds on the clock now if she can put the two halves of the boulder together it this could be the perfect start and look like that was a pretty close call I think she here don't relieve that one stuck from here Franny geebeare brought it home with a minimum of fuss and it looks like Sandra let me could be about to do the same she's all set left hand lands right hand lands how's that for a World Cup final move yeah just before it's pulled on I said we really don't know what's going to happen I think that's just answered that question absolutely no issues whatsoever 5,000 people or not she doesn't care absolutely path that Boulder and the way that she did the tow hook move this time in comparison to Fanny's ebert was really interesting almost looked like she was going to campus the move but sort of half campus didn't half drag the tow the right toe behind that volume already it was slightly more higher percentage move actually the way that she did it and through the top section no issues whatsoever power on the right arm cross burn as soon as she had one hand on there she relaxed no issues at all yes vastly experienced youth climber but as I say first world cup first semi-final first final first Boulder she flashes it so if she can keep that up she'll have a pretty good career Miho Nanaki out now two World Cup wins for her in 2016 five podiums in 2017 without actually claiming a gold medal second overall in 2016 third overall in 2017 is this year for the top step I have to say her teammate will take some beating let alone show on a caucus in yangon Bret no trouble so far and women to one and again straight up to the zone it's all about this next move now does she find the toe catch nicely done the way effector timing there and this could be another dream start it is the left hand lands won't struggle to get the right the owner maca that'll do 39 seconds on the clock this is job done took an extra five to celebrate as she should and now it's back in I mean Charlie they they look like they're just cruising this bowl of it I promise you this is not an easy move the way that they're just finding that perfect toe catch on the flash goes was incredible route reading and great timing and I find it have personally I found it hard to read that move from the ground news only because we've got a description from the route as what to expect and these ladies are coming out and just absolutely dominating women's number one and it's an easy start but that's what the route set has said they wanted they want to get quite a few tops under the belts and put on a good show yeah I think is a pretty sensible move from the route setters it's getting even gets the athletes and a good frame of mind gets the crowd up gets everyone fired up gets people at home watching enjoying it not seeing anyone having a struggle early on get some nice action to start the day now this will be interested Shana coxy as I mentioned the only woman to ever win a World Cup here in miring and she has not looked at her incredible best although if you qualify third out of the semi-finals life's not too bad but we shall see but I've been struggling with a finger injury throughout the winter but we thought in 2017 his shoulder injury might affect her she absolutely crushed it won the overall title so we shall see with soreness Shana coxy little bit unsure what pan to go up with here other athletes went up with their left hand first and Matt Shawn has got the different foot on the hold and put herself into a lot of trouble here's a little bit unbalanced looks like she's just gonna fire it from there and does fall off and I was just about to say this before she called on Charlie because it's an easier bolus she's gonna know that climbers have flashed this and puts a completely different dynamic on it when she comes out could almost add more nerves to the situation normally she comes out and thinks right this is a really hard border I'm the strongest climber I'm the one who's gonna do this but if you come out and everybody's topping it it's a complete switch in the psychology this is good from Shana though take a step back just pause it doesn't matter plenty of time relatively just make sure you get it done she's not rushing back onto the wall she's not putting yourself under pressure knowing that it's been flashed she felt right didn't get it first girl let's take a step back and have a thinking when she went up with the right hand you could see that she's not only missed the sweet spot of that yellow volume that she went to the zone hold she'd also basically closed off the ability to put the left hand on it so she needs to go higher pretty much above the bolt hole on that zone hole just decided to go for the exactly the same method but does swap the feet this plan oh she was so in everybody has ended up in exactly the same position as the previous athlete so this is good from Shana jumps out but misses the toe catch the right toe it was poised in the right position but it just dragged down that volume and didn't find a sweet spot interesting point from Shauna's attempt there the sweet spot of this zone hold is right where her right hand is there that's where you want the right hand and she got in there but her method of getting it there was to put it on a poorer path to the hold and just shuffle it up it was she didn't quite seem to have the confidence to just go full tilt for that perfect spot on the volume she preferred to get the right hand I'm not quite such a good part just shuffle it by a couple of bumps up to the right where as we saw the other climbers just fly straight up yeah Sean in she can easily do this photo she just needs to hit the reset button now have a step back have a think and definitely try not to question your mentor too much because she had it perfect that time yeah she had a message a method that worked well for her she just needs to make that move stick up to the left surely utilizing the towel at the bottom of the wall as well to keep the shoes nice and clean a lot of talk going up in these rubber mats here we go then Shauna cocktail for another attempt okay what will the method be this time again right hand up and then I think she'll creep it up she will bumps it up to make room to the left so she send it up and effectively the same position the climb is now she's too far out to the left again can't quite make it stick as you say Mike this is a boulder she can do she's still smiling I flipped I'm becoming a factor now I think what's happening here charlie she seems to be hitting that left hand a little bit lower arms are a bit a bit straight this sort of moves she needs to be a touch higher with the right foot so I think she needs to be a bit higher up in the arms hit with a bit more power and stay up on the boulder 30 seconds left could well be the last attempt for Shauna she certainly got the zone no problem this is move out left and again see it beginning to peel almost as soon as she went for it tough start for Shauna really interesting start there this is a not what she would expect the two time main ring and champion falls on the first Boulder where others have looked very very comfortable she had the right method as well pretty much near she went through that bottom section to the zone us in a slightly different ways it ended up with all the limbs in the right places but just couldn't seem to generate power or got something to hit that [Applause] okay so Foreman it starts again in the crowd excited to see this lady climb Yandy Gamma it's a bit like Shana didn't especially enjoy the qualifying round had one or two issues and fell foul of the new rules about controlling the starting hand holes but got through to the semi-final and once there wasn't overly trouble qualified as second only behind a very informally and Iguchi young you sadly won't be doing the full bouldering season because she's got school commitments so enjoy seeing it while you can Daniel opps to go for the right hand as well same Memphis Shana but slightly different foot sequence now she's loading up for this next move and again the timing perfect that toe hook on the right she just got the timing absolutely spot-on looks super solid slightly struggling with the lower left hand on that hold doesn't seem to completely come through it's a drill the thumb into the hold Dania cambric first Boulder should bring it home does bring it home three minutes 15 still on the clock she's all done didn't fancy the job depart from the top very sensible indeed you only get one set of knees might as well look after them I don't know two men on it too much charlie but the psychological issues now those Shana coxy goes backstage everybody else has had no problems really on the border she's back there knowing that she's the only one not to have talked what do you think she's thinking well every time we've doubted Shana coxy she's really been pushed in World Cups she's been under pressure I remember and I think it was Chongqing one of the Chinese World Cups in 2016 she was under real pressure she had to top the final Boulder to win she hadn't looked absolutely an investment and got it done so if there is a a later on if we do see failures on a boulder Shana could well be the only one to top another Boulder recently we're all square again the hard thing for her we'll be looking around at the other women in isolation and knowing that they're all ahead of it right now and they all flashed it and they've got a slight psychological advantage but as I say Shaun has been putting a real pressure in the last couple of seasons and almost always delivers so don't write her off just yet here's a key Noguchi for time over World Cup champion amazing flexibility off the start there opted for the high right foot it was there's actually an oath from the crowd here when she suddenly just put her foot at head height casually so so and hold up first no problem there just slightly barn dog but controlled it nicely kept the left foot on now it's just a slightly undignified hooking with the legs of that black trolley Micheel head out to the left and really nicely done did seem to do that move slower than anyone else yes she was quite close to falling off there I think there that's how absolutely saved her because she was really dragging down on the left hand side of that Hulbert looks like he can have no issues really on the top so four flashes on the first baller Fanny geebeare got it second go and Shana Cox II couldn't get it done like just a quick thought again on the Shana we saw all the women inspecting the boulder together during observation they obviously had spotted the tow hook it didn't seem as if Shana employed it correctly or was trying to use it I think I think she knew the method every time she jumped out to the left her right foot was straight and it was ready to catch on the toe and she just seemed to be a little bit low somehow across across the upper body and it means that the toe just couldn't find the sweet spot on the volume and it and just dragged out due to the way that the hole sloped away from them you can see then the new scoring system won t is one top 1 xored is one zone and then the first one in the column such as for Akina Gucci's how many attempts that top took and the second one is how many attempts the zone took sounds slightly confusing we'll get used to it I'm sure well I can't believe we've done Boulder one already him from moving on the rattling through this final already else we've got split final so you know we don't want to be here all night but it gives us a really good insight into the competition and have really fascinating start and I'm sure it's going to continue into woman's number two so women's two very aesthetic looking Boulder of these red volumes it's up on a Rhett and there's a bit of a blind catch just right at the start here you can see that vault on hold at the same height as the starting hand holds it's not especially visible from the starting position fana be well aware of where it is she's just creeping up there you see it so she can't quite see it from where she is but she did nice and in control took her time and found it and that is exactly how the movie was supposed to be done perfectly done from vintage you've actually really cited to hold lined it up nicely before she went for in this next hold is actually pretty good the feet kind of fall away from you a little bit it's all on the hills and a bit of a pop to the finish hole but a perfect start here from the first female out on women's number two so Fanny she bare one three minutes left Boulder to are we about to see Boulder to flashed and left hands up she needs to get herself set that was in the balance for a second when she got it done Fanny geebeare not far from the perfect start got the first Boulder on the second go flashes at the second Boulder she got everything spot-on there that last move looks slightly tenuous but from keeping a cool on the blind move at the start to this one two three move really nice client what's really interesting about that move is you've got free hand movements to make and you've got to choose where to look so I think she was really wise she looked around the corner effectively measured it in her mind where the first left hand hold was and then focused on the right hand hold and in the position she managed to get those two and whilst falling off grabbed the third one nicely done beautiful stuff that top move you might remember her foot slip slightly you'll text you volumes you need to stand on to get that top hold when we see them for a bit longer will got some further but this they're quite subtle where the texture isn't isn't you've got to be quite careful how you place your feet fanny perhaps didn't get it perfect but she got it good enough I think the root set is gonna be quite careful here as well so it's a bit late to do anything about it now but quick tops here already yeah also y'all the first time got pretty much smashed and it's interesting to see what happens now great little move here and this is a classic user than a rep for roots that is really easy to get nice little jump around the corner classic little timing move let's see what Sandra does and where she tends to focus Wow yeah I'm not sure she's got significantly longer arms than anybody else but she really didn't have to jump around that corner at all and it was almost a bit of a letdown that moves he's absolutely passing here Sandra Sandra latinum is looking on incredible form Fanny G Bert's feet was skating a little bit at this point in Sandra has no such issue so far Sandra LACMA in her first ever World Cup and her first World Cup final flash the first bowler she could flash the second she's just getting the feet set up because the left hand manages to survive it even though it doesn't steak tries again the same method the left hands there it's a big hole that one but it's not especially positive she doesn't feel like she's really found the sweet spot just yet again readjusting just misses it so we can talk now about that jewel text to volume I was mentioning yes it's the furthest right of the three that's formed the year the three-part move it's that one that she's putting a right foot on now now where it's lighter red it's good texture but you can see there at the top there's two stripes and then a thick section of darker red and there's no friction at all their dual texture volume so she can't put a foot on the highest part of the volume she's got to put it about 15 centimeters down it's just not a comfortable position you could see even though she went twice or that top hole she just couldn't quite find the place to put it right foot and that's what the roots s is doing on purpose it put that jewel texture volume in there it's a classic use of a non non jug at the top I'm going to describe it as there's a good bit but it's quite deep in the back and where the feat of placement with Charlie's talking about it's really really hard to get into the sweet spot of that finishing jug beat it all in the wrong place at that point so shrift go again yeah it's a surprise yeah it's surprisingly tiring that position she was holding at the top actually exactly was about say she's looking a bit tiny she's puffing quite hard through the bottom and just as she was waiting to pull back prone but the way that she does that move is absolutely brilliant into the next section and this is where I think this bowl is going to come down to sort of starts scraping the feet up on the left-hand side is she going for a smear or Hill goes for the option for the smear fires to the finish our fantastic work that was a really positive movement the way that she just stood there she stood back at the bottom the boulder tried to figure out what she did wrong and she realized all she had to really do was just absolutely hoon it for it just to give you some idea by the way that section of the wall is 17 degrees overhanging it's quite hard to tell if you look at the angle sun-woo's hairs hanging out you get a bit of an insight into just how steep it is can wait at a foot scrape down that hold it was that was extremely touch-and-go whereas she topped that or not yeah it's a nice movement the roots esters we saw it with Fanny G bear as well you can latch the top but don't expect to do it in perfect control and if you do latch the top you better stay in it because your feet probably going to peel off so Miho nanaka crowd is this the years yeah finally gets on the top step of the overalls as I mentioned earlier Yankee gone Brett not taking part in all the folder in World Cups due to school commitments so that's one less potential rival you would imagine for me home so how does she do this move let's have a look well it requires dynamic 1 2 3 yes nicely done it's a just stuff to find the rhythm through that 1 2 3 she just got it spot-on work your way up that cheater volumes second-to-last handle there's that jewel text a foothold know where is really comfortable where you want to put your foot there's no friction and where you don't want to put your foot there's lots of friction once again cuts loose this doesn't look in the back yet now it is right hand joins the left hand great start from mijo Nanaki can't get better than that yeah that's a real show of confidence on that move really she sort of struggled a little bit and then again she had the ability rather than going up there and just having a feeling struggling just absolutely go for it she probably knows what's going on in that hold and you can see that maybe he's potentially that she's route reading off the fact that there's loads of black rubber down that hold now that she knows it she stands on this his good chance is going to slip off the best thing to do is put some power down through the shoes and go for it moving so here is Shauna Cox see she's been put under pressure in her last two seasons how will she respond this time last couple of seasons she's responded by winning pressures on here absolutely needs a top we already have three climbers with two tops 4-minute starts for shauna the tower goes down nice and calm again she'll know this has been flashed from crowd reaction and how quickly the other women they're coming back into isolation but she's taking her time she's not racing the clock blind hold is a lot of times climbers we with the blind hold around the corner that was sight it off something else they'll measure effects really where the sweet spot is compared to another hole so that will probably compare it to the left hand that she's on there she's opting to go for the slow mething huge amount of power through the right hand shoulder there goes for the slow method that's nicely done if in doubt power it out yeah that is nice that gamma Shawna certainly if you get the timing right and the body position right going one two three and doing it halfway dynamically just look slightly easier but that look took a physical way of doing it from showing him and it got the job done this is still a first attempt really battling here and to pull harder that left hip you could see how hard she's having to work she's never gonna work her way up that volume such an awkward position that left hip is working so hard to keep that left foot on and now she's got to try and get something out of this all but useless dual texture volume for the right foot it's going with the left foot both feet on it left foot lands right front Lance a completely different method from shorter but equally effective as energy bear me here on an Acura got it first time definitely a huge sigh of relief there from shorter and she climbed that basically perfectly kind of Shan Shan revolved forget about the first ball to come back as you know how to climb it just the way she got through that a fortune was in a spot up over the way that she tried to go really slowly through the first movie because we saw from san jose ettan and it was possible to go statically and but in the end yes she wanna Shaun him no issues really at all so next out will be younger gone Brett got the first ball at first go I mentioned earlier in the semi-final I'm happy to admit and I have reached the upper limit of my English vocabulary to describe you and Egon Brett so we're going to rely purely on statistics she's entered twenty six in World Cups or World Championships before marrying in 2018 been on the podium of 23 of them she is a phenomenon they made the podium of every lead World Cup in 2017 draining lead world champion world cup champion two years running and multiple Boulder World Cup winner as well three ball two World Cups she won't in 2017 as well as six lead and no problems with the one-two-three move yep nearly fumbled the left hand zone hold but let's say no problems really creeping up now looking very controlled no issues so far can't get much closer to the action than that yam you're looking complete control that's probably the smoothest ur said we've seen she popped the left handed wasn't perfect so she just bumped at an inch higher and once that landed it was never in doubt it's a little bit early to say Charlie but if the root set has haven't got something in there in the tank for boulders 3 & 4 were in for a very quick and a slightly disappointing find I think it's great great boulders great moves but at the moment it is too easy but we've got a few boulders still to come they don't look like guineas that's for sure but we're gonna see way that was nice there from Yaya she managed to keep the left heel working all the way up that zone hole and she managed to release it just at the last second just as she hit the sweet spot is a nice move good timing here's gonna be the final climber out on women's number 2 no issues for her on the first Boulder so Kier Noguchi [Music] wonderful climate absolutely at her best the semi-finals and on the first bowl dirt here this evening be just tuning in Charlie Bosco here with professional route Center Mike Langley live in the boulder arena after the tile in my ringin it started the previous two ifs C seasons it starts it again in 2018 and what an event they put on always great to be here of what action we've had already just notes to flip the right hand a little bit they're looking for a completely different method fear from makyo seems to be working for her that's gonna be absolutely desperate to get into that undercut but doesn't it nicely in the end shows a third method through this section of three propellers the key is one of those climbers we will always use her feet wisely if she can rather than jumping for something nearly fell off there but works her way up to the top of this next hold yeah we didn't quite have the right angle for it but that right foot just popped the crowd response tells you everything bit like yeah Nia goes up with a left hand so yeah he just got the left hand then just pumped it Keo finds the perfect path of that hold straight away she's done it's quite interesting to her you CH and the other female athletes used to the right foot actually she just sort of stemmed it onto the wall it just helped to stop the barn door swing we have a look just there you can see a pivoting on the right so there's no foot out there but it's just enough with the smear and the texture on the wall just to stop the rotation on that final hold and we just say we can't believe our own bottle two already but we're already on board of three will be Fanny G bear will be out first you can see the results so as it stands a kir Noguchi any Gummer at me honing maca all with a perfect score card flashes on both of the first two boulders sandra let now energy bear have topped the bowlers just required that extra attempt Shana coxy sixth place with one top thus far remember with the Spanish eBay who are about to see by the way that having made the final she's now guaranteed by the French Federation to go to the remaining ball during finals that's when I spoke to her earlier it's one of the first things she said as well have been pleased to make the final admiring and it does mean that she's now had a ticket courtesy of the FF and earth to the reigning finals for the year so good result on two fronts for her to throw man walk or know who we'll see in the men's final me so here we go then start of bold and number three I think the competition could come down to this Boulder yeah I think this is where we're going to see separation of the climbers you've got climbers tied for joint in the first second and third right now and I think we're about to see some separation because I think we'll see some falls on this Boulder yeah a bit of a classic slab but a slightly dynamic move I was just about to say that's what we were told from the roots set is but farming into this cheater volume and into it a slightly harder physical section now to move out to the left-hand side and up above it on the corner of that next hole there is a tiny little screw on jib who's four it doesn't use the left-hand side at all no issues for a fan easy but great top well the roof setters may well be getting very nervous now because when we were chatting to them that was their tip that even if they get the first couple this number three will potentially get us some separation between the athletes and Fanny she bare won't come much closer to falling off than that but she got the job done foot top for her yeah the way that we read that Boulder with the root set is they're thinking the the use of the left hand side volume would be quite crucial but the way finish he bet she seemed to find the right hand it was a little green screwin up in that black bottom came to find that to be quite positive hold and positive mentality after a really good start she just crews that top section Sandra let that this first senior World Cup seems to be going pretty well so far so as we've mentioned already the fact that family geebeare was back in isolation very quickly with a big smile on her face tell Sandra everything she needs to know slightly different starting rules by the way this year in the IFS Sea bouldering it's not enough just to touch all four starting whole circle turn so you need to actually control the starting hand Holt so you can't just tap them you can still tap the footholds that's fine but you actually have to control the starting hand hold here we go then Sandra into this next move she also secures the zone hold there safe stay she's used that to make progression it's all about this next moves you can see the talk build up on that left-hand side of the next volume over to our left what methods she's gonna go for she's eyeing the dynamic move and it's the foot that goes focused on the hands and lost the feet that's quite common especially on these slabs you focus on making a powerful move and it's such terrible jewel texture footholds any slight buildup of chalk or dirt on there quite quite early on in the move that she went there to 45 on the clock it seems to be a bit of a stunned silence in here at the moment the local MC gets the crowd going when she pulls on but at the moment I think everyone's looking at themselves pink in this is not too easy women had a really hard semi-final as well oh the impression chest into the route says has made a huge amount of adjustments you'll see we're still only on Boulder for the three days of course not before to come and five climb is still having top over three you can see we know every success is out here being a bit more cautious on the feet that she's actually grinding the left foot a little bit onto that volume making sure that there's no additional dust or chalk between the rubber and the volume she knows that's gonna be crucial on this next moves actually looking for the panel edge they're great close-up for what she's up against sure she looks like she's got a pretty worn boot there which although it sounds terrible this actually could be a positive thing it could be perfect for this sort of slab climb post for the wife of the foot against the calf as wearing is she's focusing a lot on trying to get something out at that panel edge on the right hand side and we did see that coming to use bizarrely enough in the men's qualification round some of the guys putting on the panel edges in the screw holes from this wall build well Sandra letting is just struggling a touch here there she is she's absolutely Kareem up their fingernails into between the plywood panels well we saw in the semi-finals we thought that the root surface is undercooked a couple of the boulders when Jakob Schubert absolutely crushed them fantasy bears the sins of this woman's three is looking all the more impressive now that we see just how difficult it is saundra having another look then and being very careful not to drop her fingers into any of those tea nut holes on the wall that would be illegal as it were it would be an appeal against that or the judge would pull it down it's all about this next movement she seems to have lost her confidence just a touch on this next move she's not too happy on the feet she's lining up for it and now yeah it's quite a scary move actually when you take a fall like that when you're really not expecting to the wall flashes right past your face it can play with your head slightly cut II wonder if a towel might be of some use here for Sandra on the feet because obviously quite a lot of dirts on the mats they have cleaned them before the competition got underway we see shana comes out with the towel wipes her feet squeaks them clean before she starts and this sort of foothold it's absolutely crucial [Applause] yeah and just pops off cameraman was focusing on the feet wasn't enough so Sandra doesn't get that one done first time she's not managed to top a boulder in a World Cup final history good stat [Applause] well let's see then Charlie it's gonna be interesting fantasy Burt came out and made that look not too difficult I have to say and hopefully we'll be eating our words a little bit and this is actually a quite a tough boulder we're gonna get some good separation here Manaka will be out next into women's three [Music] she got to both boulders first go on boulders wanted to can't be much better than that get number three first girl Wow so still the three climbers like including me ho we've got both the two boulders on the first girl issues trying to make it three from three me and Anaka struggled on this slab in the same section of wall in the semi-finals see what she makes of it this time around she's got no gremlins no psychological issues with this section of wall same with Shawna Cox you struggling this wall doing the qualifiers mostly a completely different Boulder same angle oh just eyeing the zone hold as gamba gamba comes from a huge Japanese support team here take it nice and slowly seven degrees off vertical this section of the wall as Mike our in-house wall building expert said it's about the sweet spot for good comps labs yeah a sort of positi as soon as you put a volume like that on the bottom of it completely changes the angle intended to a massive ledge but does tend to create some pretty cool slab moves and some pure slab climbing me know it looks like she's looking to go underneath that section trying to flip it flip the volume eyeballing the top trying to find something down the back of the volume trying to find some small edge of some description yeah I think the roof setters had spotted that it was only on for a split second but it did spot a screw right at the top of that volume just to close it off the plenty of encouragement from the crowd probably not watching each who needs to tone the excitement and adrenaline down just getting ready to commit jiya makes it stick amazing climbing for me ona naka and barely pauses for breath on the way to the top incredible method that was the way that she fired into it as a left hand shoulder move the right hand just dropped down the legs are squirreling all over the place that was amazing what she did there no over in the arena was expecting that I don't think completely different method is fun easy bet sway and got it done that's the main thing yeah worked a treat legs flew out but the hands are pretty solid and once she got the feet back on she didn't even stop to think about it she was straight onto the onto the top hole yeah she walks off they're throwing there's nobody more surprised than her she's actually just stuck that moves we'll be Shana coxy out next just to confirm Miho nanaka now has a perfect score card after three boulders three boulders three flashes there's Shana still big grin on their face to be honest if you can't enjoy climbing in front of a packed Boulder arena you're in the wrong sport regardless of how the first Boulder went she did absolutely found on the second Boulder flash that but that failure on the first ball there is still costing her at this stage yes worth noting actually there's not a huge amount of brushing going on between the climbers not sure if the local officials or the the the local guys have decided what the method is gonna be for brushing there's no such rules out as of yet as to what you can do terms of brushing for the climbers and see if that has an effect that could have an effect on number of tensions not quite find the sweet spot to stand up as of yet just got to get them the right body position their farming down the left hand pushing through the right foot sure doesn't seem to be quite where she was this stays last you have to say yeah be interesting to see she's got plenty of opportunity in the next six weeks or so to put things right we've got quite the world tour crammed in after Moscow next week two weeks in China and then it's Tokyo and Vail so back-to-back weekend social so you have plenty of opportunities to refine that form but right now said Mike doesn't quite look at Full Tilt well there was a bit of chat you know a month or so leading into the moaning and well cut whether she was going to compete with his finger in G wherever she was up to form obviously she feels comfortable her coach feels that she's good to go just struggling to prohibit at the moment on that right foot you could see all the previous effort when she spun around on the right foot spun it effectively off the volume but this time she goes for a completely different method and no such issues standing up this time pump down on the right hand volume rather than the left just using the left donnelly as a foothold touch and go there but she stayed on just again looking for that panel edge the route setters were saying that they were aware of how useful a panel edge might be they've done their very best to make the panel edge is non-existent or at least as small as possible unusable small as it was I didn't think Shauna's frustrating herself here quite a lot by just struggling with her she knows that she can do this move she does ask for the brush I think sometimes Charlie I mean you know your supports extremely well you know what it takes to get that winning mentality what's it like just know she's out how I stand that she knows that she can win basically is there more pressure on her because because of that she puts a lot of pressure on herself I don't think so and as I say what's interesting about Shauna is one of the questions over it before she had this amazing couple of seasons we've just seen was how would you deal with the pressure and every time she got put under extreme pressure she responded perfectly so I think anybody watching this and wondering if shawn has got it in her to win a third back-to-back World Cup overall title perhaps asking that question a little too early it's a long season and she is absolutely in the world elite and even if things don't improve for a higher in May ring she can walk away knowing that she made the final relatively comfortably got a top is looking pretty handy on number three and looks like she's having a lot of fun so I don't think she'll she'll struggle to move on if things don't go her way here remember of course yes Lee finished her attempt on number 3 inches still got number fours ago so that's not predict her demise just yet well she's the old Alex Lowe saying that the best primary in the world is one having the most fun then Sean is definitely winning tonight she's absolutely loved and being in front of the crowd doesn't quite make that stick completely different method again yeah runs at a time effectively it took her a long time to get into that position on the zone old seem to read it more of the slightly more of a dynamic rock over that time she did go quite down out dynamic it did work but she found the balance point just to stand up on that volume but it's just putting the power down through that left foot tonight doesn't seem to be the night for Shauna coxy got a big cluster of Boulder World Cups all very close together so can't be your day every single day and if tonight isn't Sean has plenty more opportunities in the very near future got a bowl the World Cup next weekend she can try to put things right it says a lot about the extraordinary few years she's had where we're wondering about how she's doing when she's still comfortably in a bowl the World Cup final here's a lady that doesn't miss many finals one in fact in a twenty six World Cup career looking great form perfect score card for her from the first two boulders both flashes here an inaccurate flush this one as well so shown her at this stage of the border just struggle to find the method a little bit the best way to stand up was trying to roll over on the left palm yeah and you looks like she's gonna go for the same effort has a quick briefing before she falls off she knows that attempts gonna be crucial here does go for the method off the left palm but managed to get the feet up quite well and again like Shawn and I just struggle to find the exact right method they're rolling over on the left palm wobbling off thought she was going to correct it for a second but committed to it so me her name a car will hold on to the lead when younger Gamma is finished still a key Noguchi to come who also got two flashes in the first two boulders so it does Junge have a little rethink she does and heads up on the right hand side this time good thinking good ability to reset it's almost hard to come to commentate on these lapses you don't want to sort of say anything too loud or anything like that just to pull the folder off of the wall smoothly done from Yaya once you found the method have too many problems we managed to get both hands off this is the only not especially physical Boulder that the women are taking off this evening hello some Yaya so close she had a bit of a bad fall this does clutch the right niche too right away seems to have caused any problems really it just felt a little bit short bit stretched in yeah I'll just have another look all about that left foot like Charlie said let's see what she does it goes for the ones who across and it was the feet that went because she got so stretched when she was in that position all four points with maximum stretch that lifted the heel up off the hold and can't really afford that on such a smear I think it was probably the right knee it looked like the right foot stayed on the wall a bit longer than she wanted it to when she fell just tweaked oh they doesn't look to be causing any problems straight back up for another go and that's what these slabs can afford you don't really burn any power or energy it's massively frustrating really interesting finals here so far and your us brushes back on sweep your hair out of the way this is the fall so that was that last go I knew a long time before she came off the wall that she wasn't going to manage it I think the recreation slab climber can can kind of relate to that quite a lot you know you know you're off for quite a long time before you actually do fall off it's never the fall it's the second before it that's horrible that's better from you this time we will she go for the same method as she did before maybe we were a bit more confidence a bit more power this time [Applause] have a look that's just the right hand brace top and hit like me gonna knock her powers straight through so more attempts required but she gets the job done yeah changed their tactics opted not to fire out to the left hand volume seems to be the way it's actually stretching the climbers quite a lot if they do go over there so it's a really good thinking there from the young you go and Bret had an opportunity with a couple of false a false attempt to kind of reset and have a think about what to do on that movie she was so close to falling off they're really close to toppling over the left foot the right hand latches yeah the crucial part of that is the palm down on the left hand volume and there's actually is actually a dual texture volume as well so she has to get it in the black section otherwise she would just slip off and yeah really really close to falling off there but as we saw I think it was with Miho same and not with me no sorry Sandra's same mefferd really nicely done now fingers could be able to get very interesting because right now Miho nanaka is the only climber in this women's final with a perfect score sheet three flashes on three boulders but akela Gucci has just walked out to try women's three flashed boulders one and two so she has the opportunity to join Miho on three flashes just to let you know I don't think it will no I hope it doesn't come down to this but rule 7 10 3 said if any confessors are tied following the ranking calculations then the ranking of these competitors from the preceding round shall be used to break the tie what we call count back so count back to supplies to the semi-final key oh and we're watching now came out on top in that semi-finals could be key we hope it is it's never it was nice to see someone win it clean if you like in the final but we have to separate them somehow yeah Akio goes to the left hand palm down option didn't work for yang yet or for shauna but Akio seems to have got the flexibility to make that work nicely done and she is extremely good on the slabs opting to put this off pretty much the entire left foot splat onto that volume rather than pushing off the toe probably got a nice soft pair of shoes onto that to get maximum cut rubber come contact on that volume that does mean that me only Macker will hold a clean lead no matter what happens here Akio needed that first time to join her top of the leaderboards to meet her neck and nose she won't know but we know that she'll go on to the final Boulder in the lead and see you're just blowing off a rubbing off any excess chocolate first rodeo this it's the camera guys right up in a grill there yeah wouldn't be surprised if cameraman maybe gets moved off to the side yeah there he goes there is a rugby tackle such a thing as too close so in such a tight fire there were so many tops you need to be really careful yeah also them through too many attempts opps for the difference method through that first section goes up to the right that we've seen most excessive and now it is just really to sear just pre-loading that foot making sure she's got the right weight on it be really interesting to see if she comes out from the next ball too much steeper of a different pair of shoes on now then we've seen so many different methods on this move Accio the tallest climber we've seen attempted defeat you can almost see the cogs turning in their mind it's great to watch a climber mid boulder just having to think on the hoof what feels comfortable can I make that stick if I go with the left foot where are our hands unknown those are the right hand controls it really nicely will bring it home from there gets its second go textbook stuff from Akio really she kept freeloading the photos just checking the quality of each placement sometimes that can be a show of nerves but Akio really managed to keep it under control which it's not easy because there's that the way that the crowd is responding to this mousse is that they're kind of building up quite a lot of anxiety before they go for it I'm not sure if that's helping or hindering the climbers in the end it was absolutely textbook climbing from the kyo and use the all the volume exactly way the root cellars intended and it was quite an interesting climb in the end it was kind of t3 across the star and you know different methods it was quite cool as I mentioned already hold a clean lead family GPA at nakir Noguchi make it the podium assume stand young yagam brats under Letner and Seana coxy the rest of the top six just remind you that new scoring system 3t3 Zed 3 3 means three tops three zones three attempts to get the tops through attempts to get the zones so we can see it KO again very in control yeah that's really quite interesting that you actually use three points of contact all at the same time there the left palm hit plum in the middle of that left hand volume and the right foot smeared really really hard on the wall all at the same time to just stop any sort of lots of height on that on that move in just the right foot is just moving a little bit did seem to do quite a lot for her and it's really hard to watch that border actually it's hard to hard to breathe and just be with the climbers it was yeah really good fun to watch so physical ending for the web analogy bear just still check in which Boulder she's going to it's that one there with the red and the black volumes my quite long bowl of this yeah with a big jump at the start a bit of a roll over kind of flick move this could be quite interesting you hope it's a big move anyway big exciting move and yeah I don't think the climbers have really used any energy to get to this point know that I mean there might be a bit tired from semi-finals but about a bit of a breeze to get to this stage so far let's see how funny gets on on this move goes for the Oh interesting goes for the one-two that's what the Reuters expected bombed down on the left hand fire up to the jug where your right hand and then stem out with the left hand what again see it's just an action replay of that goes one to optic for the foot ended up with a hand down there looks like she might go for the foot option rather than the hand have another attempt here then from Fannie Fannie geebeare came onto this bowler sitting in second place she's had two silver medals in the world cups before Vail 2014 in Munich 2015 on course for a third one at the moment she seems to be a little bit caught in between the two methods he looked like she was gonna fire the foot out there and halfway through decided that it was a hand move so maybe she's reflected back on that now and has a has a look at the hand sets up to go again well that's the method that we were told by the route setting team yeah this sort of jump is really crucial to stay close to the wall at the moment sugar palm is going down it's quite away from that sweet spot on the left hand volume it's all about pulling in when you hit that right hand making sure you're high on it pulling hard to make sure that you can stay close to the wall to stem out that left hand yeah that where that left hand lands on that big left hand two of those circular volumes it peels away from the wall quickly and as Mark said if you get too far left on that you can go damage else but you got to get that hand you can see that the right hand wasn't high enough on that occasion but you've got to get the left hand flows in as well yeah I think she's just struggling with the height a little bit actually not that she's too short for the bottom it just needs a bit more power out the starting position for the geek root set is out there Lauren the port was the first guy to ever carve the entreprise version of that holder taijitu and this is a pretty much a replica and cheater let's close that time for funny really nice set of new volumes here from cheater and from flat hold hit in the shopping cart when I get home it's all right for you it's someone else's money so family she's got one minute 30 left on the clock amazing evening for her so far three tops and requiring only four attempts to get them three zones all of which were flashes [Applause] not having a lot of joy on the boulder I think this is a sort of move that your left shoulder can tire out really quickly big jump off the right foot as well and yes it just seemed to be struggling this movie actually seems to be opting to don't crimp the intermediate I'm not sure if that's a foothold or what over to that side and now she's having a look at a completely different method I did discuss with the route set as wherever it's possible to go up with different hand to that jug isn't it is a massive hold yeah I wouldn't be surprised if we if we see a different method here from Fanny possibly the same again that time she seemed to pull out the move but I wouldn't be surprised if with the 35 seconds on the clock she just tries something a bit new let's have another look so was this the last attempt yeah so the left hand never even got on its way that wasn't far off so she sticks with the same method and got a bit close to that time you know she's really close that time and she knows it as well but she's getting desperately close to running out of time here the crowd responds for her though agonizingly close but this is what we want to see it much harder for her to finish the competition and not meant to be for energy bets just as we have another look [Applause] just over rotating a bit too fast inter competition yes sir as it stands she's in second place always so hard after the first climber or two comes on to a ball is to judge the difficulty it might just be a move or method just don't quite get on with it this certainly looks the hardest Boulder we've seen Fanny didn't get the zone seems to be a bit of a bit of a theme this move actually throughout the weekend the men had a left palm roll over Moody in their qualification so did the women bruise liking that all she got big left shoulders or very tired left shoulders one of the two wearing big number 15 she's got just in the four minutes now left of her first World Cup final the Olympics is looming on the horizon and she won the combined youth a in Innsbruck in 2017 she's made the final in her first ever Boulder World Cup keep an eye on her and look slightly year slightly fatigued Sandra we saw a panting for breath a bit earlier on and again after recovered if not had the amount of recovery they or the rotors might have envisaged because we've had so many tops and so many quick tops yeah it's a really good point it doesn't add a an unknown element to it the amount of recovery between boulders okay this is a really daunting Boulder to stand underneath it's a really far from that position to the next set of holes and now she sticks a move that's how it's done you land the right hand as securely as you can palm the left and once you got it right it didn't actually look too tricky now she's going up this is hard to tell from here you've just about to sue the joints as three volumes bolted together the red and black and this was really promising from Sandra let mccann she make it three tops in her first ever World Cup final she can Sandra let her take a bow two and a half minutes left on the clock she has got three tops awesome effort there from the young Austrian the way that she nailed that jump was absolutely perfect and then after that just seemed to be no doubt its have another look how was perfectly off the right foot gives it absolutely maximum through the shoulder left hand dials it into a perfect palm down sweet move and very well find and as you mentioned earlier you might got that left hand nice and close in I'm sure a left thumb was almost touching the wall perfect one of the fascinating things you see involved in competitions the climbers on mass look as if they're sometimes bang in the head against the wall somebody gets the movement spot-on and it could be a tiny detail and suddenly it looks quite straightforward so Meehan Annika she can win this competition here if she flashes his Boulder it's all over she has got a perfect score so far three flashes yes be a really good effort to flush this this is sort of jumping it was really hard to get right obviously Justine Sandra dirt she knows that Sandra can has done it and see if she can flash it so Meehan and Mac are lining it up thoughts about backing out the jump she knows now she'll have to go for it and that wasn't too far off but you could see she just missed with the right hand and the left never really stood a chance yeah that was quite interesting because her left foot stayed on the lower hold and we saw from Sandra and from Fannie they were bringing the left foot up and pretty much predominantly firing off the right foot we gave him a touch more height but it looked like me who had plenty of power in the bank on that move so Miho nanaka how'd she top that as I say the the race for gold would have been over as it is she'll have another go that's much better than that time like Sandra let me thunder lettin excuse me gets it first time now she's up to the three volumes bolted together from here Sandra letna looked pretty untroubled Miho fired out a bit on that move up with a left but no problem at all with the right this is for four tops of four boulders Miho nanaka how's that for a start to the season nice quick turn and look at the smile on her face brilliant working both Sandra and me who had no issues at all on the top section I bawled I'm quite surprised the top isn't a little bit harder than that easy to say from here and the way that she did that was brilliant as he was pretty much 90% on the right-hand part wood there the left did work for a bit she didn't almost like she didn't need it in the way she got for this top section from catch on the right hand no issues bounced up to that slight Charlie Ted's look though she was in a spot of trouble for a second or two but no such issues for the top and water performance all the way through for Miho nanaka yeah already guaranteed a place on the podium now Miho nanaka here's Shana coxy she won't be on the podium in fact she's currently sitting in sixth place can't move up she's got one top but the other five farmers above her have at least three so she will finish the final here in six I'm pretty sure our yes I was about to say I'm pretty sure our clock on the screen is wrong it's also the same one we've got in the arena but Shawn it definitely hasn't been on the mats for a full minute so I think there'll be a reset at the clock standby Shauna Shauna had a quick look at the clock and obviously had the same fault as me that's not right now she can go so as we've said Shauna coxy will end this evening in sixth place the first time she's not Mary ring in with the gold medal hand luggage so made the final an awful lot of fun along the way and again tries a different method it doesn't quite fancy the jump yeah she did rise the left foot off the starting left foot position as we sort of quite Success Miho just seemed to have a bit more power through that jump than some of the other athletes really showed their class minnows and a fantastic offseason as well looks really really strong going into the first Boulder rock up off the season Mike do you think we can read anything into the fact that Shawn us more often than not tried to do moves in a slightly more conservative more static way I mean maybe you could argue I mean I'm no sports psychologist but maybe you could argue that's just a slight lack of confidence maybe from the finger injury going into into the final [Applause] Hodder luckily taken missing good-humour I suspected might not be quite so amusing if there was a World Cup medal on the line here but yeah we have got a problem with the clock you might have seen our clock on the screen stopped at I believe it was a 338 and it's obviously a problem with the clock in the venue not just on our screen because Shawn has been stopped hopefully have made a note of exactly how long she had been climbing following the clock when and now she just has to stand here not the easiest job in the world in front of a couple of thousand people slightly awkwardly waiting for the clock to be set up but she looks like she's having fun [Music] never ceases to amaze me how many problem is a simple piece of equipment with a clock like a clock can cause yeah it's fascinating how many times it does happen in a World Cup unfortunately now I've got one on my arm all the time it's just fine but for some reason we do seem to get quite a few clot related problems I think they're back in the game no charlie we've got some ones just giving us a thumbs up whether that means a thumbs up good or thumbs up let's all go home and not sure maybe it's just someone telling us love in the live stream no but I think it means we can get going again yes we can Seana coax it in a slightly extended rest and the judge is putting it down again not sure what's wrong with that this time judge has pulled her off another time not a few boos and whistles going up from the crowd not 100% happy maybe it was the exact time that she was starting back on there they have to run it down and start it where it finished I think she's gonna head off stage now and they're gonna fix it properly yeah are they mark Knowlton our head judge from Norway having to explain the situation to shorter who's ring around the arena so again the clock stops at 348 maybe the time it stopped over there anyway it's having a a mental block at 348 this clock of ours got its game face on get all the way down to zero and ideally back to four again yes it's not really what we want to see you know these things do happen we can't get too upset about it and but we want to see Shaun back on this board and we want to see this competition concluded because it is really really close gold medal still up for grabs we've Accio has the potential to take it away from me home great look at the layering of wall here you can see our sleep it is 40 degrees over hanging on that steepest section around the start of m2 and their woman's womp we've had a top heavy woman's final lots of tops all the way through Miho nanaka topped all four boulders got all four zones and required only five attempts to get the tops on five attempts to get the zones almost a perfect score I think that I think the route says did say they wanted to live life by the seat of their pants as it were a little bit they just wanted to see they wanted to see a lot of tops you know maybe it's a bit too risky when you're playing that thin red line it's really difficult to get exactly right but they did know it was a little bit soft and they really wanted to play with the crowd a little bit and play with the show this was gonna come down to the last border which is always good for the show but it's been a quick procession up to this point he's a trivia for you when was the last time we had four flashes in a World Cup final me Hernan Necker wasn't too far off she got three and then got the final Boulder and a second go well what about Shana coxy last year she did all four ball as was it four flashes to check a mouse back on that one let's go delve into the website someone's getting happy birthday song to them yeah obviously I've got a a major meltdown here on the clocks unfortunately slightly less frantic running back and forward from the officials that might give us an indicator that we could be back in the game just to confirm last year Shawna Cox II didn't get four flashes four tops in 10 attempts yep not close to four four and four but any port ops nonetheless any status care to contribute hashtag ifs CWC four flashes in a boulder World Cup final mister when the venue ever sees earn their money suddenly faced with an empty stage after showing a - we've got ya Agarn Bret and a key in the future to come Kela Gucci now the only climber who can displace Meehan and that cutters and if she did they would be tied at this evening and it would be count back to the semi-final that won it for a KO so pretty tight between those two yeah Agarn Brett by virtue of a attempts already out of it sadly see their family to ban Sundra Letner and me hone and Mecca now you can see the funny G bears already got the ice on there so she's thinking ahead just not too many days away from the Moscow World Cup yeah most of the year most of the climbers will probably fly on Wednesday or Thursday so it's not literal to turn around for them I've been told that the the venue emcee in the shirt there stood on the stage the tall Chapel of the year with the beard is it's a rapper with Swiss wrist wrap EA raps about efficient public transport and their recycling yeah very polite rapper you would imagine so still no sign of this clock being repaired crowd getting somewhat Restless I'm just looking down from our commentary position people making their way to the bar unspecified delay [Music] it sounds hopeful you have positive noises coming from the local MCS okay this is Shauna coxey's coming back on [Music] that's really tough for sure she's got effectively get herself ready for this Boulder not once not twice but for the third time after - pause - pauses - technicals with the clock really hard does she go back there does she take the shoes off she never knows how long she's actually gonna be there for she's at absolutely at the whim of the technical delegates on that stage let's just see we haven't got our clock on screen right now I'm just trying to spot there we have it yeah just how much time had been awarded to her so thankfully a note had been made of how much time she was plowed tricky situation this for Shauna she knows it's not been her best night all things a relative of course still the World Cup final but she could still get something out of this with the top here yeah I think your treat is a good site er for the rest of the season well kind of a bit of a quick health check see where she's at see where the fingers at especially I mean this set of holds generally a suited her quite well in terms of not too many sort of nasty crimps or pockets or anything like that quite a lot of big pinches big slopers big volumes seems to have helped her and so close to that move that time she's really enjoying herself so one minute 40 left on the clock for her I don't remember a work at final rest Shauna smile so much she seems to be loving this lack of pressure she said seems to be having the time of her life out there yeah I mean she's gonna know what the situation is she's just out there to have fun now she's made a World Cup final yet again and you know like you said early if you can't enjoy this situation then you're in the wrong game and she's really having a good time and you know it's been tough for her on this final boat and I really hope that she can find a top [Applause] so again should go with the right hand and try and land the left and gets it and the crowd loved that it's not been easy for this evening is certainly not having the bad luck of being the climber that was affected by the timer issues but with just under a minute to go she should be on the home straight with this Boulder from what we've seen so far that's just the right hand no problem at all now she'll go up with the left most assess herself again the legs fire out which she controls it nicely I'm sure the cops II will finish this evening in sixth place but it looks like she might finished with the top she will it's actually quite a good moment here in mega in the crowd really really really enjoyed that they really responded workers you know it was a bad situation and they really made the most of it great cheer when she stuck that move Sam another look this time she hit it you see the force going through the right-hand side through the shoulder hit the left hand nicely fires up through the next section top of this boulders really not caused any issues at all for the climbers Sean I had a little bit of a wobble on the match but that Stacy was just out there enjoying herself well done Sean I finished off what was possibly not the best night ever but had a good time in the process yeah Nygaard Britt then out next cannot win the competition ahead of Miho or Akio but can get onto the podium yeah well she's got a record to defend twenty-three podiums after twenty-six World Cups or world championships up to now in here ofse career beautifully done from Hyun Egon Brett powering out left pretty casual looking no problems at this stage those are the kind of move sheets up now it's out right one hand two hands job done that was extremely impressive from yangon Britt there to flash that jump over is really really impressive the show of dynamic force absolutely incredible let's have another look and Charlie got a finger heard four attempts I think it was on the slab on the footballer yeah I'm really hurt absolutely crews that Boulder potentially looked like the best climber on the night but he's not gonna go away with a silver or a gold assuming Akio finds a top assuming he finds a top yeah she'll be on the podium we already know me own and actor Andy Andy gone Brett will be on the podium samijo now guaranteed at least the silver yeah I was being a bit harsh there really by saying assuming that Keo finds the top a little bit half to yang you're saying she won't find a silver but you know I don't know I feel like Keo is looking fantastic all weekend this is a big moment if a kir Noguchi flash uses folder should win the competition she'll end up on exactly the same score as Miho nanaka and it will be count back to the semi-finals when Akio was top so a flash here wins it for a kir Noguchi hold on to your seats she will not do it doesn't flash it everybody in the arena was holding their breath there no more than Miho nanaka she's going to win this competition yeah now Yanni was sitting in the silver medal position can Akio knock her off it's all gonna come down to the temperature if she finds the top well yeah we've got this new emphasis in the scoring system we were wondering how it might affect things and here we are it's back to attempt some things changed sort of thing to say the same one thing that stays the same as a Kia Noguchi yeah absolutely world class making finals and getting towards a business end of them a top here of any description gives her a medal you could argue a few years ago Akio really wasn't kind of the best I know we're out there but she's really worked on that in the last few years didn't seemed really to have much of a weakness going into this competition but this sort of move maybe not her favorite type of move out there just as I say that she comes very very close to sticking it that it's our previous tries he just fumbled the right hand a little bit the blocked hole just pushed her off the off the move but that time she was looking really close and you've got to think that the key oh she should get this in a couple more attempts yeah just to confirm that doesn't mean that top for Akio will put it into third place and Miho nanaka confirmed his winning she can't be caught and younger gone Brett got those four tops in seven attempts and she can't be caught either now that Akio has used so many attempts on this one I believe if that was attempt number four or five either way it's too many yes young you're putting yourself in a brilliant coming out flashing the final Boulder it's incredible once again from the end again Brett ever never look she's actually just over shooting that hole slightly it's almost too good on that moves she just needs to power it down a little bit just focus on the accuracy rather than the distance have another look one minute 25 to go [Applause] gets it that time akhir Noguchi this for the bronze medal sandra lettner the world cup debutante is currently there but a top here from Akio will displace it and it will mean that the top three here in Mehring and all got four tops ke--oh no problems at all matches that top hold add another World Cup medal to the already enormous collection how aware she was at the scores I'm not sure but there was a potential for her to win the competition there couldn't wipe manage if it does find the top and just to confirm mijo nanaka gets up to the perfect start in may ring and apart from requiring two attempts on the final Boulder she has the perfect final yeah you can see the way that Akio went through that bottom section that time she hit the hole we've got a lot better accuracy she had to engage on it incredibly hard actually I thought for a second she didn't quite get it in the right spot it did nicely done and so we'll have a quick presentation ceremony right now right after the final and you see they're in third place akela kuchi barely had time to catch her breath back on the stage bronze medal for her young yagam Bren make that 24 podiums in 27 I first seen senior events and in first place Miho nanaka she's back in the winner's circle one in Mumbai one in Munich in 2016 and completes her collection of em's wins admiring a 2018 no wins for her in 2017 despite five podiums she is back on the top step third place Akira Gucci second place Yandy gamma and that woman in the middle Miho nanaka gold medal for her yeah and the podium is quite nice in terms of the results really three climbers got four tops and they were the free on the podium everybody after that was free or two tops so fair enough and you know we were talking a little bit about how easy it was but this the third and fourth oldest has had sorted that the result out in the end in here yeah it really interesting kind of broken finals in many way with their problems with the time then they can see the results yeah Miho Danika takes her first gold in almost two years younger gone right in second to killing Taguchi who I have to say look to be certainly form wise the favorite to win here this evening takes a bronze medal Sandra let no fantasy bear and Shana Copsey rounding out the top six I mentioned it earlier the World Cups are coming thick and fast from here on out and we're about to be joined by a very special guest in the commentary box we're just doing the headset substitution Shana well get to the commentary box thanks for having me oh just ran up the stairs and I don't think I've ever seen you look as if you having so much fun in a World Cup final you know I came here not knowing what to expect and they really didn't really think I'd be in the final so to be out there and this crowd I absolutely love them I mean they're so energetic and so loud and so enthusiastic so yeah just to get to climb in front of them was a no no and why did you say you didn't think you'd make the final was it still a problem with the finger yes I got the Oh like all clear the grime on my finger just two weeks ago and then got the flu and had a lot going on so I think I've had just a couple of sessions feeling good before this event so yeah I mean it was a tough decision to make whether or not I should come but I really wanted to be here and get in front of that crowd and I didn't feel ready to come and try and win a World Cup I just wanted to come and take part and have fun and yeah that was my goal so I really enjoyed it yeah well it certainly looks like if having fun was your goal it looked like you certainly achieved it so it was great watching you climb and any predictions when you might be it 100% full strength not doctor full strength but your version of full strength I think with me like I need to just get some experience back on slabs and climbing around you know so this is perfect so yeah if I can keep doing a couple of World Cups and see how I feel and get some training in I mean I won't be coming to China I'll do Russia though so yeah I've got I've got no idea but I am not back yet and I I'm definitely really motivated to come back and like really compete with these girls but just to climb alongside them was good fun well it looked like you're having an awful lot of fun we enjoyed what you used to thank you view time and we'll see next week in Moscow yeah see you next week thanks for having me so you can see the men's final already underway there you don't mess around here admiring and apologies that we didn't mention yoni cruder is on the stage and I have to say sadly looks as if he might be having one or two clock issues which would not be very amusing but yeah apologies we didn't introduce you a when you get the opportunity to get Shawn a see don't turn it down and we've had another substitution with the headset we've brought the original guy back on might Langley welcome back yeah hey brief interlude the hair needs to catch half a breath and I'll say I wasn't quite here for the interview but yeah journey's first go there was pretty good he got up into the big selection of yellow terrible dual textures quality at this board was set by UK route setter Jamie Cassidy thinks it's quite hard up there strangely enough yeah just to you were the only person that didn't hear the Jonah there Mike she was just saying that although she got the all-clear from the doctor a couple of weeks back shouldn't quite feel that full strength and you could see that in their movements it's erm it's not always a conscious thing that you try and do moves conservatively or you don't risk it all it's often subconscious I'm sure anyone who's had an injury climbing or otherwise knows what that feels like he can be told you fine everything looks fine on the scans but in your head you're not quite ready to give it a hundred percent and I think we saw that from Shauna today but she said it goal was to have fun and didn't really stop smiling the whole time she was on the mat so she certainly achieved that yeah to come in in fear with full fitness but that psychological issue with the fitness to come out and still make a boulder World Cup final with with such a strong field is just shows her ability it's absolutely incredible really and and to come out and enjoy yourself as well you know why not but you know we've all been there a lot of recreational climbers with everybody's had a finger injury basically if you haven't had a finger injury you're one of a very small group but that just plays on your mind for months afterwards even though you fear you've tested it you know it's strong but it just it's just always at the back of your mind that the thing is hurting yeah and showing us of hinted at the fact that physically she's not quite there right now the finger injury prevents are getting quite the same volume of training so it's partly psychological and the results are a physical element that while the finger is fine if you can't train properly you're not a hundred percent but as I say it's not at a hundred percent means making a World Cup final life's not too bad so you a cruder pulls back on hopefully the issue with the clock it has been sorted he seemed to take it and reasonably good heart as he seems to take most things and as you mentioned Jamie Cassidy a member of the root system team here which is led by Lauren Laporte set this Boulder quarter tell from that angle we'll see it front on they're basically back-to-back identical holds but actually the holds that that produces are not quite identical they're all slightly subtly different you can see yearn a side pull of gas donning heading for the top this could be a great start to the final for him the tongues out he's trying hard and he's latching that top hold yo McGruder well said you never had any doubt what Sean is thinking did tophi own a cruder thinks enjoyed that well I think he feels like he's just won the World Cup hold on the sleeve stuff from you and I kuda once again the way we went through those top crimps was really good and classic yearning style just sort of stalled out a little bit and thought you know what I'm just gonna go for the top hold and he did and success indeed that's brilliant to see always had a reputation you na is performing in in all big competitions apart from World Cups couldn't quite seem to get over the line in the world cops but he got his first podium last year as I say after some big successes in some of the private Invitational competitions has he got a World Cup medal in this season maybe a gold one who knows here's a man with plenty of gold in the cabinet already and looking to add more about as it determined climbers that come Alexi rubs off and once again some issues with the clock now stuck on 359 Alexi doesn't look over the moon about this and understand why he pulls on so either he's got a different clock than we have yeah there's a chance they might have dropped into the manual stop watches but it actually carries on nonetheless the clock does seem to have redeemed itself in the bottom corner yeah it skipped from 359 to 339 two times flying but when you're having fun these are the side poles I'm talking about as I say the created with identical holes but somehow they're not quite identical due to the spacing so just when you think you've got them figured out you haven't but one thing I like okay from a legacy Rob saw he was a fight and he looks in a pretty handy position here to go for that top hold no worries they did really well there just to not have any issues he was worrying about the clock he was looking at the clock it was sort of getting a bit angry with a few people down the front there but put that to one side and got it done and a really good effort very similar method to what we saw with yearly for a second then he just eyeballed that next crimp think can like shuffle one more time up these cyborgs a stones but then just went for the top in the end top holes good enough that you can just jump for it and no no issues always goes well here admiring a relaxing second last year first in the inaugural miring and World Cup in 2016 here's a man who's been going well recently jeong-hwan Shaun the overall champion from 2017 and 2015-2016 beat up by his sky-high stan is something of a blip but he's still picked up a World Cup win that season in Innsbruck where we will be in the Olympia Hallett in September for the World Championships jeong-hwan Shaun looked absolutely extraordinary last year also made the to lead finals in China in October of last year and would young and chairman basically brought bouldering tactics to the table just start climbing didn't stop until he fell off no resting involved certainly got no shortage of power he had no shortage of crimping ability as well and he'd be really at home on this next set of ecology would have for absolutely desperate through their really great move just to confirm Alexi rube saw flash Boulder one yone cruder got the zone on his first go and he got the top on his second go so as it stands elixir drips of out in my zone the perfect start to the final one flash terrible combination of hand holds here but it's amazing how they managed to create three or four moves in the space of just 30 centimeter so now he's eyeballing toppled looks like you're gonna try and farri off the left hand goes to the top latches it with one hand brings in the second nicely done no issues in the end for John which homie said he likes the crimps and indeed had no issues on them so ever another look he just looked like he was a little bit low there compared to Alexi and yearly kuda but pretty much the same method who ended up going predominantly with his right hand the left hand came up to join it in the end it's great we've seen quite a few examples of it this evening when the recreational climber can relate to the athletes on the wall and that feeling of having holds in front of your face it can't get hold of or that your fighter to get hold of is a quite a familiar one but so far everyone's managed it that series of really awkward side pole crimps to Meraki toccata we don't see him in as many World Cups as certainly I'd like to see him in which just goes to show he can cut it when he's here 18 Paris in 2016 in the World Championships and match that results in Mumbai also in 2016 it did have a pretty good turn made the finals at the studio block masters now in Germany as well so he is kind of on Form at the moment straight into this hanging ass section you see the shoulders just creaking and the elbow wobbling there is so much force going through that is checking in with a physio tomorrow some of these climbers I think that this move absolutely horrible it's a pretty brutal start I mean we've seen the ball to get done relatively quickly but it yeah it's a savage start interest you just try to jump the right foot up there onto the zone hold I haven't seen that method adopted yet from the previous guys who are successful on this climb did some shaking top section it's a it's brutal and see him shaking off the right elbow there actually hope he's not caused themselves too many issues and not quite sure how you would warm up for a climb like this see they have seen it before that's quite a long time ago now the women's competition finished well started a long time ago finished it not that long ago so the guys did the observation you know time flies up here in the common shoebox over an hour hour and a half ago it's quarter past eight now and they did the observation at around four to two seven since a wee while it's a while to stay warm obviously they won't warm up but no they won't start warming up at the same time as a women they'll they'll adjust their warm up accordingly but just make it slightly trickier when you don't know how long the women's finals going to be if the women had taken forever on each Boulder could have had a really long wait just add an element of difficulty to it yeah be really in chess and see what the different climbers tactics were back there in the isolation do they kind of get warm and stay warm after say an hour well today just try and power up really quickly five minutes before so Tomoaki the first climber who's found these moves super tricky ene got it on his second go Alexi and joong-won on their first girl to Milwaukee then pulls on for another attempt on these fuel texture holds set a four flat holding cheetah sponsoring this event lots of new shapes some of the conventional ones that we used to on that Boulder problem but Tamaki really struggling a little bit here maybe his slight inexperience compared to some of the other guys in the field not that many World Cup finals maybe that's just playing against him a little bit just under a minute left room to get this one done there'll be three climbers coming out onto the mats after in Manuel corny the reigning French champion secured his place at all the World Cups now thanks to appearing in this final that's the criteria for the French team tomorrow now sake and the Jakov Schubert's so Tomoaki launches into this final section it seems that once you get established on these holds you just keep on powering up but it's getting into them in balance that's proving the problem for him and you see it again there yeah he had beaten in that position before and unlike the other climb he was trying to get his right foot up to the zone hold not meant to be fatter Meraki jogs off the stage not the ideal start like charlie said that he was looking for some seriously big hits coming out next yeah the top three this is manuel core new tomorrow second yak of Shubert there is manuel cornu we talked about him in the semi-finals when he gets on the wall it's like going to war he is not coming down how a big fight tape on that right elbow I don't remember if that was there in the semi-final you know what to expect from him maximum effort maximum fight promise so far 20 seconds gone already you know he's an interesting weekend here American went from second last to second best in terms of rankings and qualifiers he just scraped into the semi-final and the semi-final came through in third place so good effort you can convert that in the final and really could be onto a winner and this is still his first go it just pops off that was desperate to watching he sort of didn't quite know what to do the handholds changed his method and end up just sort of thinking I think I might be off it's gonna crimp the living daylights out of that top harding see the shake starts to grip the teeth ever a finger injury during a well cut that was their tongue came out that was actually perfect to watch the ring finger on the left hand looked like it was pretty close to exploding Manuel cornu two and a half minutes to go [Applause] you look really solid up to that position actually really quite comfortable through the feet and the the two first shoulder moves is quite interesting great combination stemming between the two footholds all four points have to be perfectly locked in it's not what was often to Tamaki that's why struggle Manticore knee managed to find that position quite nicely really confident on his feet through these dual texture holds yeah I think the route setters particularly after what's preceded it in the women's competition could have been slightly nervous when we saw a climbers just strolling out and strolling up this bold at the same pace but too much this thing we don't like to see the climbers struggle glad to see their bowler presenting a few more problems now have a nice little toe hook release move there just the Zing's off on the right foot I think it's a dust of chalk buildup on that right foot smear this is something we saw from Manuel corner in the semi-final actually that his first or his first few attempts often seem to be the strongest it just gives so much to his attempt it sir it takes a lot out of me every attempt as he should do he gives absolutely a hundred percent to him see a couple of times watching him where if he doesn't get it first or second go it's almost as if he runs out of juice I haven't seen how he climbs I could see why so Manuel corners got around a minute to go just over probably have time for another go if this doesn't work out it'll be energy that's the problem he's open to those opposing crimps this looks a bit more solid he's been here and he's been higher before he's gonna launch from load down and he is close got 50 seconds to go I think your fancy another go on that he does he gets a brushes out yeah I can see the fury in his eyes he looked up in just five but I thought realistically I mean that'd be quite incredible if that worked Whitney need to go two more moves up that selection of side Paul Gaston he's gonna pull straight back on he really really wants this and he'll get a great response from the crowd if he finds a top in the crowd appreciate a good fight and they're certainly seeing that from my corner and a bit like I said perhaps burned a lot of energy I think this could be the definition of optimism 15 seconds to go but this won't stop him trying and you never know he could be rewarded now I think just push it a bit too close that second-to-last go was realistically the last real attempt can't help but think that he just rushed that go that previous go as a real shame for Manticore knew about the substitution poor old Mike Langley it's nothing personal against Mike being substituted in for Rijo nanaka hello congratulations thank you amazing thank you how do you feel now first World Cup win since Munich 2016 yeah I enjoyed it too when amazing it was yeah amazing event and what were the boulders like in the final um I felt a little easy yes many athletes kill show their best but for tops a perfect day for you yeah and yeah big congratulations it's really good to see you win again and see you climb so well yeah thank you very much yeah I was so happy to be able to climb and when it looks like yeah for the first post-war look up in this season it looks like you're enjoying your climbing so it should be a great season I hope so yeah congratulation thank you very much she ate it thank you arigato Leona naka demonstrating there that hurt her English significantly better than my Japanese always good to hear from the winner and in the meanwhile apologies for not introducing him hello Colter Moen era sake out it's quite handy yeah and a really good girl on that first attempt actually got his feet really high in the crowd all gasp because they thought he was gonna find some unlock some new magic sequence through those top crimps but in the end he sort of found himself on the wrong side of the jewel check stir holds and that basically had to jump off because there was nowhere to go here he goes Boulder already been flash twice jeong-hwan Shawn and a leg see Rob's off Tamara now sake winner of the World Championship and World Cup overall in 2016 by his own stratospheric standards not quite was on Form in 2017 still involved in making every final apart from a ring in a veil so too shabby second in Wu Jiang and shear men in the lead as well in 2017 so his version of a bad year is still a career-high for most people you've got to think that potentially with tumorous tie was extremely dynamic really fast really confident it's sort of grim vertical climb is something that he's gonna have to just slow his mentality down a little bit slow himself down a little bit and just concentrate on the perfect foot placements on his jewel texture holds yeah there are some climbers you might be slightly worried about them being left behind if they don't get a top but when you look at the boulders that are still to come they'll really suit to mo so if he doesn't get this done he could still find a way back into the reckoning so not necessarily the end of the world if he doesn't get Boulder number one done it would certainly help his cause if he could and he's ranking hard on those prints I think he's going to go from quite low down instead of taking on any more Krim he's setting himself for the dino notice I said one more and you could just see in his movement indecision you know that was exactly the same effort he's he had on his first go I think it was got himself laid away onto the right-hand side I actually managed to bump the crimped one more time there which was quite good but still kind of leaves him in a bit of a funny position to fire to the top just went for the massive rollover to finish that was a really good effort I think you will probably use the same method again and if he manages to slam dunk that finish hold out me a really good moment yeah ever sir it looked like he was going to go from a long way down obviously felt right I've had enough of these prints set by this politicus blow coming there I'm getting up there but felt at the last second that he needed one more flying through this low section this will be his last attempt definitely won't have time to pull on me never know that doesn't need to rush and the almost identical for the last attempt just about holds it this time he pumps the hand up before the feet just pops off and he won't get the top but as I said some marinara sake there are plenty of ball that's coming up that will suit him opted for a slightly different method there the right foot was just creeping up it was the left foot underneath that actually blew it just before his right foot land on the hold and again tomorrow just rushing slightly I mean that's worked for him so many times over the years but on that Boulder just didn't seem to work now here's a man that we are looking forward to seeing Jakob Schubert looked at his absolute best and I know at a big statement that is in the semi-finals yeah yeah cup Schubert found an extraordinary trot that stopped during the semi-finals it's not a I think it's all one other top it was a real show of force from Yaakov Schubert main team qualify through from the semi-finals in the top spot how will you get on with this Boulder generally speaking pretty good on the technical stuff slight hesitation there and some of the climbers plates are on on this quad do seem to be suffering a little bit with the texture on the foothold don't think that's the texture wearing out I think it's just a build-up a chalk and dirt from the mats I thought Schubert has been waiting in the wings quite a long time but preparing for his attempt on yes over an hour and a half since the women's final kicked off so he's had plenty of time to think about it he did really look on Form in the semi final course lives in Innsbruck where they've built that fantastic new climbing facility the collector zentrum where that hosted a wonderful youth World Championships back in September of last year felt like December was actually September if my memory serves me right but yeah he's got pretty much the world's best training facility ten minute walk from his house for these days and it looks as if it's really paying off he's actually going in for the liquid chalk there and just heard over my shoulder from one of the photographer's just come down from the stage up to our commentary position fifty so meters the way it says is extremely hot down there you do wonder if the you know this finals been going on a while now the crowd in here lots of people everyone shouting and cheering the temperatures the ambient temperature the room is definitely rising and some of the later athletes on this boat is just struggling to find the height and when hitting the zone hold the foot just seem to be pinging a little bit an incredibly shoulder Ebola all the way through that it's definitely going to have a bit of a toll on the climbers as they move through two boulders two three and four we saw there from Jakob can still tap the starting holes with your feet it's the handhold you got to control we've got this new rule is about to starting boulders in the IFS sea 2018 you have to control the starting hand holes but you can still just tap the starting foothold as we saw that from the Jakob see ya Kyle perceiving a little bit least foot keep sliding on that right hand starting hold hasn't got a towel oven to clean his boots but hopefully you can just put the fire power through it now and jump up hits it but hits it a little bit low has to work really hard on that zone hold on the right hand just to control the swing this is looking much better now he's got to put the power down through the feet and it's the left shoulder has to work hard so yeah Cobb got the opposing crews how many more will he take one more look I think you probably get at least one above that no he'll launch from here is lining it up yeah come Schubert a foot slips looks like he's getting frustrated again a bit like tomorrow he's he's going to have folders that he really gets on with later on this is a boulder he can definitely talk so he might be able to catch up a bit later on but I'm sure he can do this one so I think he'll take as much rest as he dares I think you're set off with about 25 seconds to go would be my guess that final attempt yet I think he was extremely surprised at his thought did blow on that zone hold it's quite a big hold I think just as he was putting the power down his foot slipped tractor and plenty of encouragement probably time this quite well he would have done probably would have had time to finish the attempt but he doesn't get it done yeah Cobb now you can eh bonus Lee has been extremely disappointed without you would have all that bothered him in a suitor Jakov quite well interesting their first three climbers and the last four got it in the last four didn't wonder if conditions are evolving on stage it feels very hot it here in the boulder arena see that team Italy on the right of the screen I think it is medium coaches in the front row and you can see they're right at the bottom of the screen currently laughing his default state is a lauren Laporte chief route setter here in my ring obviously shana cocked in the middle screen they're doing their autograph duties they are not the up-to-date results obviously starting list we get the results in just a second I can't tell you John want John on a legacy rubs off both got the boulder on their first go there you can see it from yen a prudent got it on his second [Applause] here we go their men's number two and extremely lively climb indeed I think it's a one two three four down to the zone holders a big jug in in there in the volume nice round sort of ball hold you only crude a very dynamic climb at this really could suit him I think you might have already had one attempt here we go then that's how you do it yeah and a cruder the room centers muscle love watching that I'd be great to see a slow-motion replay of that you seem to be moving forever it's not over yet though into the pair of noses at the top of the wall either witch's nose is that roots s is described this as because it's not an easy move he's got to compose himself adjuster but he's got that one with his pinky with the left hand now he adjusts it no sticks to the pinky method it's a reasonable hole he's going for but you can't just lunch for you gotta go nice and smoothly to a slight yone pruder did you a cruder putting on an incredible show here in may ring look what it means to him and the way that he did that jump absolutely awesome what a show from the route setters let's have another look here we go lines it up fires off the right foot with absolutely everything it's got travels one two three I think it was actually five hand moves before he landed two hands in the zone hold what an effort there from you early crude and hopefully we can see multiple repeats of that move because let's be honest I want to see that again here's the lake see rube stuff he's taught in the past how he likes just straight up climbing [Applause] one of the team here of root said is his man who has Lou and he has set the four way jump before a classic one at the quiff a few years ago let's see what Alex here oops oh I can make of it clothes got his hand on it hats the method down yeah that hold he's going for that big bolt on in the final volume is huge hold it sir looks like a cake pick round fat hold so if you get a one good hand on that should be able to stop you momentum so let's count the movement to the hands one two three four five yeah as you say Mike he's matching that second-to-last volume as he goes yeah I think the match just a slight dabbing in the right hand just keeps you close to the wall otherwise you could just end up a bit too far out when you come to hit the zone hold these sorts of climbs they take a lot out of you but you need to have a lot attempt it just seems to be the more attempt to make the bed of the muscle memory is here he goes again very similar to his first and second attempt just needs to slow it down a little bit I think he will just keep going and going and going until he finds himself getting closer and closer to that that jug in the zone holding like see as I mentioned earlier never finished lower and second in my ring and interest that we're doing it and Alexi rubs off pure power surely not oh yes guess a big cheer from the crowd and just leave us up onto that left foot since the route setters nice try but I'll just power it again drip stick of witch's noses with the pinkies and he's out right from the top that is a well-earned top from a lake see rub socket yearn a cruder got that second goat sorry lip he'll have the lead that is always the question with these really really tenuous multiple stage jumps is will it work have we got it right and someone always does it in a way you wouldn't expect and the guys they would have read it as a jump they know the route setters are extremely talented and they know what the route so is gonna want them to do so chances are a number of attempts will be burnt just trying the the four five six moves whatever is out to the zone hold where Lexi just had a and a quick break at a quick thing hmm maybe I can just smash it out to the first volume had a bit of a Yan hora Munich moment there if you were there if you watch it on the stream you'll know what Mike's talking about jung-hwan Sean he pulls on he certainly got the the raw power to do it the static way but he's going for the dynamic moon slipping as he sets off so this boulder not yet being flashed year and a cruder got its second go and Lexi rips off got it fourth go chalky Upjohn 1john that was a slip rather than a mistake I think [Applause] second attempt at the quadruple catch wonder if that moves got a name double clutch triple Dino was a five-stage move Gordon someone at home hashtag over the CWC digital name I still haven't had any contributions I'm aware of as has anyone ever had four flashes in the ball the World Cup final if so when was it but stato is out there can get involved I think we just put that down as a modern move yeah I think you need to know when you've reached a level of good limit if you broke a bridge right jeong-hwan Shawn setting up again let's have a look one two three Oh skipped out the last volume so we've seen that volume being used with both hands jeong-hwan shawn chooses to use it with no hands now but now you can see Charlie's just eyeing up the staticmethod asking for the brush I think he's gonna have a good have another look at this and have a look at a different method thinking outside the box thinking and challenging the root set his mentality challenging what the root says of thinking what they've put in front of the guys John's actually swinging his left foot don't think you and I did that so John's actually got quite a lot going on in his left foot as well as the hands I see what he does he looks like he's gonna go for the one - no it does go big once again classic thing about this sort of moves it's either incredible when someone does it or it can just be a lot of attempts of standing on the map flapping your arms in the air not really getting anywhere near the zone Holden yeah John Charlie basically when you doing these coordination moves it feels a bit like suddenly playing at a higher level of any sport everything's just happening so fast but by the time you've realized what you needed to do the moments passed you've got to think such a speed let's have a look one two three four five yeah try back the double slap on that second to last one unique Roode is getting this second go looking increasingly impressive and jeong-hwan John you've got the first Boulder on his first go and he's not yet the zone he does put on for another go then swings a left foot with maximum power getting closer so much going on with the hands there it's really hard to know where to focus do you look at the first volume second third do you look at the zone if you look at your feet it's just so so much going on there and like you said Charlie only crew does smash of this Boulder is putting him in a great position it shows what incredible talent he has on these types of moves and realistically the only way to get better at these is to have a lot of goes at them in the offseason and there's not that many climbing walls in the world that is going to set this type of style because it takes up as you can see five or so meters so jeong-hwan John does not get it done next time we're out tomahawk II took quatre as I say not a climb we see a lot of World Cups after his performances in 2016 almost made the finals in Mumbai and the Paris World Championships we'd like to see a bit more of him you get on with his move yeah if you follow the Japanese team on Instagram at all you can see that they do train this style quite a lot that's something that really adopted into their training the last couple of years so you would have thought Tomoaki and to monera sake coming up a little bit later this type of move could favor them and for me that's why tomorrow was one of the favorites going into this due to this preview when we had a look at this Boulder the forth movement started to go slightly wrong interesting now I predicted that once you got that vault on hold on the zone should be able to latch it with jeong-hwan charm he's not short of contact strength got a pretty good handle on it and still carried on past it so it would seem that with this big combination move there is such a thing is going too fast yeah I think it's you've got to go fast to get the distance we gotta go it's kind of you don't think like so you don't go too fast because you've got to slow it down some at some point and you got to go from very fast at very static in the space of you know latching that one hold it's kind of like running between the stepping stones in a lake you need the speed but if you go in too fast you slip you to be fast bit controlled and again skips out the second-to-last volume went straight for it and got a good hand on it but just couldn't stop it that was good I think he might have a good share of this here even latch it or it would completely dislocate your shoulder try and hold on to it because he's going to full force over one hand one hand the lander into that zone hold yeah all those of us who've had shoulder injuries in the past collective wince at the thought of what's going to happen at the end of this for him but it's a if he's got the shoulder stability should just be able to lock out his body we'll end up pretty much horizontal the speed he's going you might just hold it yeah we don't know like that if he was gonna catch with one hands he really needs a slight bend in the arm to engage the bicep it doesn't do that it's gonna be all about the contact staying in and the the skin strength in his palm that's how he does it as I said the body ended up pretty good horizontal and when he made it stick shoulders of Steel so it's not in the bag yet we've seen everyone else bring it home from here but it's not looked a sure bet by any means it's gotta get both those holds with his pinkies not the most dignified looking move and then just calmly go up with the right and then the left that's how you do it yeah that was a really good show of fast learning on that move Tomoaki the way that he struggled at the first couple of goes he looked like he was getting a little bit closer than all of sudden hit the switch he knew what to do and he had just had to execute it and that is where preseason training really helps on these types of moves just putting the time in the gym just having goes and goes it goes this have another look fires really nicely off both feet doesn't swing the left foot like John want John did we're gonna get a really nice slow-mo replay here let's have a look so girls laughed hand right hand skips out that volume entirely and having now seen that in the slow-mo I've still got absolutely no idea how he did it yeah what's amazing about that is the whole arena is watching the same replay as we are everybody's craning in next to the screen absolutely amazing moment now while cornu the more traditional method if we can see that about a move like this using that final volume this type of move really does show that there's no rules in climbing and it's a it's a brilliant show Boulder there is a reason these suits do put it in apart from the show that it does create a separation there's a high chance that nobody's gonna really going to flash this and they're all gonna do it in different teams Manticore new looks pretty confident after his first go but struggled a little bit that time maybe due to the fact that he knew that he could potentially do them do the move to starting to overthink and live a bit just needs to flow [Applause] [Music] [Applause] Manticore do back on them for I think what is his third attempt that time again just a bit low he looks so much better on his first attempt maybe he's just like I said this started thinking badly a bit too much incredible speak like my man who gone as well so he has got the speed he's got the power for sure so Sammy another look he's got two more than half his time left and we'll call it liming this one up three finals last year and he's into the first one here in May ringing you know on that attempt his body wasn't quite in the right position when he got down to the zone hold he was just rotated a little bit jumps back on for another go with one minute 45 I was very similar still he's sort of you feel like manna Corner could either stick it next go or he could be there all day trying exactly the same method these move incredibly frustrating the next man out is cert tomorrow now sake I think a lot of people will enjoy watching on this yeah I think another point to note here is how much skin is lost on these types of moves just sort of shredding your way through the volumes literally rubbing your hand down each of those fiberglass volumes are all quite coarse brand-new fiberglass volumes manuel core new what a moment crowd went wild and his welding mic that was extraordinary okay let's see what he's got from there we have to see a replay that was incredible i'm not sure if that constitute is a downwards die no no that was absolutely ridiculous i was incredible i was incredible for man world corner okay so he's got to go out right doesn't mentioned now gonna get rid of all that adrenaline and quietly inches way out across a 10 degree overhanging wall on pretty poor holes is he please don't drop this man who i think i try and maintain neutrality but please don't drop this after after getting that move done this is incredible for man world corny talk about a showman surely can't do that again oh man well morning that was incredible moment of the final for me I think for everyone in the polo arena and I'm sure ever watching at home incredible stuff I don't quite know what to say this have a look at the replay I opted to double to the third one second one launch yourself high and double back down so he hit that he's not learned his lesson about early celebration has hm so he got that middle volume and not only carried on going to the left he find himself upwards as well yeah it's actually an extremely intelligent way of doing it rather than losing height through the whole time semi control the second volume and then basically do it two meter sideways diamonds Dino into the zone hold get that one for the record work am absolutely incredible show here on men's number two nothing like this I've ever seen before now I mean if you've got any friends out there that aren't convinced about watching the IFS see live stream just go back download the YouTube video of that and show them that that was incredible that was incredible for Timon era sake proud him a ring and be treated to an extraordinary show Timon era sake gets that first goal if this bowler was going to be flashed you'd imagined it would be tomorrow and our sake who did it and he's pretty close again tomorrow please don't drop this he's close he looks nice and in control lines at the top hole to marinara sake flashes that bother as soon as he walked out for observation and he looked at that he must have been licking his lips yeah we called it earlier we said if anybody could perform well on that border it's to marinara sake and that was just a walk in the park for him incredible like I said follow him on Instagram if you want to get your mind blown pretty much every day by the way that he trains it's have another look just has a quick look fires the left foot swings the left foot for momentum does the four five six moves down into the into the zone holdin from that point onwards is a bit tenuous but he really had it in the bag nicely we've been treated to a quite extraordinary twenty minutes or so of IFC climbing there that was absolutely amazing yeah I think the last three minutes is as good a three minutes as I've I've seen in a long time in the bouldering yeah come Schubert close very close I do understand that calls for more traditional style bouldering but if you don't enjoy watching this there's something wrong yeah but to be fit we have had that we've had traditional hard climbing all the way through you know this is different this is parkour this is circus whatever you want to call it but it is very very good to watch so yeah Cobb pulls back on he looked like he had the secrets pretty nice he got a good firm left handle on that bolt on short that time but I think he can figure this one out yeah crooks will just be a think arriving at that left time with enough energy to hold himself on he's getting there every time think for a moment now in Port is gonna go statically to the first volume but let's see if he has a look at that or not [Applause] ops for the quadruple cat that time and he's just shredding through the skin a little bit he actually looked like he was suffering his skin on the first climb [Music] [Applause] we go the Jakov Schubert pulls on for another go go statically this time it looked like he was going to have a look at that a couple goes before this is looking nice completely different method to what we've seen before just to put the right hand on but no puts it replaces it again was the left front you'll just leave her up those moves are made to look so easy by climbers like yeah come Schubert it's not easy levering onto your arms like that and now he's on to the witch's noses ops for the same method as Alexei through the bottom section with the Stasik method and this is desperate scene at the top the way that some of the other climbers been holding that is just sort of squeezing it in the palm of their hands it's like trying to open a bottle top effectively that's pretty much the best way I can describe its have a look at this method so much power through the right shoulder as he manages to guest on that first volume really interesting to see what would happen if we had multiple climb of doing it that method it would have been a real shame but we've been treated to some extraordinary moments on men's number two now come to Bert's back up there again does the move static again and now he's just cruising it he's running training laps on it now just needs to keep his composure he doesn't need to rush in any way it's got all the time in the world got a couple of relatively okay moves left and more than a minute to do them he just need to find his balance point asset can't remove the feet set himself up here just get see if you can find somewhere for that right foot and goes it out it gets the job done anyway well Mike if you can think of a more exciting Boulder in recent memory yeah love to hear all about it commenced who has been extraordinary extraordin e not only for the style of the move that it is it's an it's an amazing move you know tip of the hats and the routines that is absolutely brilliant but the way that we've seen different people do it has been really interesting and the way that we've seen the climb has learned as they progress through their time on the border you can see their unique route are leading the way he would be a popular winner popular guy on the IFS sea tour he's halfway through the final in first place four minutes is reset what on earth that the root says has got in store for this one so the best action seen for a long long time mends to men's three definite psychological challenge for the men here but they've now because I've now got to completely dial down all that adrenaline all that speed all that dynamism convert it into very controlled steady climbing this is the slab that was the part of men's four in the semifinals are being wedged in this corner will feel quite familiar so they're reaching out that white volume with the blue bolt on on it is almost without textures got no friction on it so the blue or that tiny blue bolt on is good but not much else is I'm not entirely sure how you own a cruder is still on the wall that's incredible balance so much power going through his right toe thought that might happen that we might see a couple guys falling down effectively on turd at its own hole and then get himself mounted back up I think the intention for the route at least a high and four foot swap potentially on the small blue hold they're piled against those white holds few different options here whether you step through real effort straightaway on that or end up with the foot swap all just sort of fall down to the zone hold now another really exciting climb yeah the route setters we're saying that if you can get your left foot somehow onto that blue bolt on on on the white the bigger white hold then you're away but that's quite the challenge because it's over to the right so you just instinctively drop over to the right one method that is possible whether the climb has read it or whether it even works as another matter but one method that is possible is to put your right foot out rotate so that you're facing the crowd and then put your left foot on the black zone volume will anyone spot it will anyone try it is your they think about it now so if he puts that right foot there if you put see outside of his boot sort of the inside the route set to say you can rotate round it's a high-risk move but if it works and you get it right they said it it was relatively easy it's a good gift though it's hung out now just again going into the corner it's gonna catch it just dabs onto the floor I thought you had that then and then suddenly saw the map appearing the shot you realize he was back on the floor bit too it didn't look impossible that method no I think he's gonna have another go at that and I think he might do it you know there's a lot of chalk down there I'm pretty sure that chalk is actually on there from a previous previous round that hold has been used I think it was women's 4 in the semi-final that's why there's so much talk in there and maybe that slightly misleading for the climbers you know they're reading the what the talk tells them effectively the only crude I think might fire down to that zone hold and then have to start rebuilding mantling back up here he goes again for another attempt look quite comfortable on the Blues growing on the set of white holes there push it into the corner again it's a long way down that is level with his right foot the next hand hardest incredible leg strength their flexibility oh he makes it sticky credible flexibility I was going to say to keep himself keep that left knee in against the wall and now he really could be getting somewhere what a journey this Boulder is all the way up then all the way back down again just to go back up again so just before we see a wide shot just to give you some ideas there's a small white hole there it is and there's the top above it and you know pretty promising here it's a good top hole it's not a great one it's good enough for you and they threw two though look at that never won a World Cup and he's now got three tops for the first three boulders I was about to say what he needs to do is just calm down and dial it down for the fourth Boulder but he's done that on every other Boulder and it doesn't seem to have held him back so you go as crazy as you want yeah now the challenge for you and I'm gonna come back to this one have another look at this because he leans down the way that he managed to lower yourself down incredible mount the leg power it's like doing a really slow squat just to go down into that zone well then go back up no issues really four in the top hole there's a little tiny screw on gee up on the right-hand side of that zone hold fires up to a joke but what I was gonna say Charlie's Canyon a cruder with no World Cup win under his belt keep it together now well we'll see if he if he's sitting in isolation and the rest of the field come in four minutes apart all looking pretty sad the adrenaline is going to start pumping for you and me cruder I think this folder now is going to come down to this method the only crude is known for his sort of thinking out the box dynamic climbing and and is not sort of ever one to shy away from trying something pretty radical will the other climbers follow suit and again will that short that's down there on the zone hold confuse the climbers or is that the method actually roots are just wobbles off it's a year and a cruder having the evening of his climbing life being chased by this man the only other man with more than one top this evening and Lexi rubs off he's topped both boulders so far flash the first one got the second one on the fourth go now he's eyeing up this moved after the right yeah well it wasn't quite convinced about that method you get the impression yeah it tries to stay high that's pretty much what the roots had intended you know see they would have tried lots of different methods and she set these nearly a week ago and tried tried all sorts of things and it's gonna be yeah I think this bowl is really going to come down to the root reading Lexi's know he's got a real fight on his hands here with your own accrued air back in the isolation with a huge roar from the crowd he's gonna known that they've done well touchdown then yeah you saw it tough one for the judges hit you've got to make sure they don't touch the floor we didn't have the angle on yone cruder I'm sure he didn't touch the floor but it's a close thing have another look cameraman got this one spot on move down it exactly the right moment and there you see it that left foot and we didn't really get you could never really say got much new cells to the floor but it doesn't matter he's still touched it no I think this bolt is actually really interesting because I'm gonna have to get my head back into the rowboat but I think that constitute is a downwards guy no whoever it was said it is that or not I'm not I'm not sure but a down was Dino technically is illegal as far as I'm concerned as a as a set move it is yes oh well the roots Esther's obviously didn't intend it but that's how it's being done and it does look I have to say slightly scary I'm actually Rupp's often come too far their offer needing a trip to the orthodontist goes for again manages keep its feet off the floor that time and it's an incredible move on its own can you get your speak back out to the left-hand side now and mantle back up into this zone hold ok Alexi rubs off could well be heading for a top here keeping the pressure on you and a cruder the two of them could be pulling away if you can get this design you know he's got plenty of time but if he doesn't get it done this time I don't think you'll be able to have another attempt so we've got 45 seconds left and it's quite a slow process getting to where he is who needs to make this one count looks like it's just gonna spring for the finish hole just needs to mount up when you go slowly you don't think you get out of that position without jumping now I hang it up does try and get out of it slowly does really well into a sort of a thumb to cut oh and just fumbles it and he's gonna be really close to running out of time yeah I don't think you'll have another go on that that is definitely the town woods jump obviously not set that way but one thing the climbers do is surprise the route setters yeah I definitely don't want to call that as an illegal move um you know we're up here in the comics box the judges are down there but that's how I'm Alexa I'm nothing that would have been dangerous he went for that he just skipped out the whole slab and just tried to dive across the wall luckily didn't try and stick it that was really harsh Alexi rips off goes back without the top and you're only crude all of sudden has put himself in a fantastic position how it was intended but as mike says rule 7 3 1 part see each boulder shall be designed without any downward jumps as a route setter slightly caught my surprise it's giving us a wonderful show I just hope we don't have anyone clobbering that to black zone volume yeah I mean I think they'll be alright to go it's so low to the ground there yeah it's pretty safe Pinterest to see what the judges do about that I'm not sure if they can cancel the boulder if they feel like it's an illegal move not that savvy on the guidebook unfortunately on the rulebook I should say interests it happens with there's no no officials running around near us so we get to concentrate on jeong-hwan Sean John one's score flash the first Boulder but no zone he was the only person not to get a zone on the second Boulder now is he going to try the foot swap no one yet has tried this rotation method which when the routes s is described it did sound quite unlikely but they assure me it can be done those easy when you know how moves when you've only got four minutes the lights are on and you're trying to win a World Cup I kind of move you ought to take off because John didn't quite decide what to do there I think one of the reason this is turned into a bit of a downward fall laughing I'm gonna call it it's because they are effectively falling off and they have the opportunity to catch the halt on their way off it's not they're not really jumping to it they're just falling down the boulder and managed to hold themselves on and again like I said early that chalk in that zone hole might be misleading the climbers a little bit we said that I say misleading it has worked for a couple of guys already good close up there what they're up against top screw on hold they're used to block that foot to make the foot swap incredibly difficult [Music] but for the cheeks that ever I'm John one country so has so much force going through that right toe the right leg half his time remaining John Sean owed me encouraged to get behind him one minute 50 left just to remind you yearn a cruder out on his own with the three tops two tops for Alexi roofs off one top before tomorrow no sucky tama Akita Cather Jakob Schubert and this man Jong Hwan Sean Manuel cornu in seventh with no tops won't come much closer than you did on men's too so what was the method for you here if he needs to commit to one method or the other you know he's not tried either the fall down the hill or the stand up into the groove yet just seem to be struggling to do a stand up method here tries a bit more dynamically that time but hasn't really fired up into that corner yet struggling to find the method here from John and maybe he's lack of an ascent on the previous Boulder just affected him a little bit less than a minute left so this Hume this'll unless it ends very very prematurely this'll almost certainly be his last go so he's got no trouble at all getting up to here [Music] so what will the method be doesn't quite seem convinced by any of the methods right now [Applause] I'm not far off from amalgamation of methods yeah state hi there into the Guru just pushed up into it like we saw with your own a cruder then ended up - and falling down to that volume maybe have a bit more time he might have had more luck there but wasn't meant to moved on much on couldn't quite find the right method [Applause] now next in tomiaki Takata let's see what he can make of this interesting see how the guys actually read this would be a great bit of knowledge after the competition to see what hey what your niku day was thinking diving down here like that but was that what you thought it did he just discover that on the fly I personally feel like reading his sort of facial expressions that you realize that was a method up once he was up into the groove important actually maybe there is something to be heard down there and just went for it I'm currently sitting in fourth place at the second Boulder on his third go flashed at the zone on the first bowl of it didn't top it frustrating attempt there just well put off we saw that a little bit in the women's competition on the same angled slab but on the right-hand side nothing worse than just wobbling off to squishy so upper body just leans out from the wall a little bit and you know you're falling off multiple seconds before you actually do fall off your shame he's back on note 20 time still seem to concentration each to cross his face there's the key right foothold looks like he's trying to rim something down in the panel doings but there isn't anything there it's gonna launch himself in our resume might Langley come coughing his guts up there's a lot of chalk in the air at any year will cup amazing out the hole fills with chalk sake so got to its left got plenty time he's burning through the attempt could potentially become critical code [Music] [Applause] by Q back with us yeah just lost half a lung there and back in the game interesting method to jump across the corner there so many options on this boulder and only possibly the one Lord says probably didn't intend seems to be successful while successful for yearning the move was assessed successful for alexei but he didn't find the top unfortunately quite a strange boulder overall Charlie I would say I mean it's it's kind of slowed the event down a little bit possibly that's a good thing after a hectic men's number two everyone can sort of head to the bar and get a beer and just kind of try and regain their composure a little bit but quite a slow a slow climb that's probably what we expect from these slabs cool slab don't be surprised if we don't see it done quite quickly though have a bit of a feeling that tomorrow might enjoy this one 45s lesson seconds Tomoaki Takata maybe you could argue if this turned out to be climbed in a way that was not a conventional slab climb that that's to parkour style boulders in a row some people like some people hate it's a variety that's for sure in terms of the type of Dino at least [Music] just 13 seconds left and for the Japanese after he looks like he's eyeing up the right hand hold looks like he's gonna go for the step across but he's a country mile away from that stop home with that method unfortunately can't find the method same with John when John just can't seem to find something that worked for him goes away pretty perplexed yes so he will stay on one top and two zones [Music] man-wolf core knew about say wonder if he's got over men's to wonder if he'll ever get over men's dick that was quite extraordinary got to compose himself now and how he's got to find top on this slab that's interesting actually the judge actually just checking his fingertips there because climbers aren't allowed to bleed on the holds - his skin is massively suffering obviously probably after that quadrupled I know that he had multiple goes out there's a real shredder of the skin on men's number two so yeah the judge just checks his skin he's obviously gone backstage and you can see quite a bit of tape there on both middle fingers I think that is so he's taped up to the max luckily don't really need your hands too much on this Boulder somehow somehow it does not yet have a top in this fight okay this looks promising this is one of the methods that we were discussing the sort of standing out to the crowd going with the left foot rather than the right foot doesn't seem to be too comfortable we could be onto something there yeah so what they're suggesting is you put the right foot out just doing and put the outside of that boot on I think he's considering it isn't it no okay he's going down yeah and you put the outside of that right boot on and then rotate on it nicely done man world corner the tricky bit is how to move from here it's 12 degrees overhanging that section of the wall if he's trying to get on to amazing knee stability there where he managed to drop into that position not a hint of wobble great leg power so he'll try again two and a half minutes klog it's definitely the first climber that looks like he's had a real think about the spin method I don't think he quite got the the method correct but in his head he certainly had to think about it and again lovely balance to just drop into that corner now now move out to the right goes for the only cruder method lowering down on the right leg looking really good with it as well can he drop down and make sure that he doesn't touch the mats he's going for a full body bridge across the corner that is completely smooth those white holes though so he needs to find something here maybe he will end up just flopping down onto the on to this zone hold or maybe I'll get the foot swap okay he's got it done correct me if I'm wrong like that could be the first successful foots what we've seen yeah that's right an amazing amount of flexibility and thinking there from any corner this is absolutely brilliant now he's just got to finish it off it's quite far away from their own catch we don't need another heartbreaker she asked we saw a Lexie rubs off do that absolutely textbook inch stop took him ages to get up there yeah man who didn't control man whose issue was there that we have another look he needs to get mount it up over onto that right right hand zone holds to have a chance of reaching up to that thumb to cut the upside-down thumb catch on the round side so he had a really good method but just what maybe just rushed it a little bit has a minute left still [Applause] here he goes again he gets into a very similar position now he needs to find that foot swap looks like he's going to drop all the way down this time does it has not a downwards diner but ends up in the same position fights his way all the way through Manticore knew once again is putting on a huge battle here and please don't fall off top once again Manuel Kanu talk about going through the wringer tonight I don't know he's had a rollercoaster getting plenty of encouragement for the crowd as you would expect 25 seconds to go time becoming an issue here because the best way to do this move is to do it slowly this is really tough finish 12 seconds left is very close to running out time but is a quick move to finish there is no buzzer in the arena so he needs to move now and he's died on the boulder man who corny like Charlie said he's really put us through the wringer put on a fantastic show remember back to the Paris World Championships molding them before put on the most ridiculous show anybody's ever seen he goes out there but seat honestly Sara Lee said early goes to war on every single Boulder he's kind of like a football team that keep hitting the post yes this is an inch the other way he'd be absolutely cleaning up I think if you wanted to have an emotional final Manticore knew there every time we just put on the most incredible show got a feel for him though just so so close to two tops yeah every time his name appears in the finals with we know we're in further might the emotional roller coaster knows all his friends and family are feeling like in the front row he's tough enough to watch it as a neutral Bitzer he's put on a fantastic show on us first we are in the entertainment industry man well cornu certainly Amanda and sell tickets for future World Cups if he performs like this he's a man who's been selling tickets for a couple of years now tomorrow an era sake I think he might get on with this slab creative thinking flexibility the ability to improvise and suddenly explode into a different position could well get on with it what's the method going to be and see the cogs turning in his head moves into the corner oh that was close I actually thought somehow he might drop onto that knee and somehow stick it but the knee that was pushing him out from the wall sadly I would be incredible we saw that with Tamaki just trying to step through with the left foot onto the big zone hole but it makes your face completely the wrong way on an overhanging panel which is basically never going to work unless you quickly drop down into the good part of the whole group your hands but you might try that let's jump straight back on with two minutes 30 left will you be using a similar method so many options available to the climbers on men's number three goes into the corner nicely this time just wedges his head and his shoulder into the right-hand curve now looks for something across the wall goes through a panel joined a bit of a fun catch on a panel edge I believe that is that is legal now just wiggling himself across he is on the left foot I think it's gonna have to head down here he's got himself in position we're really going to struggle to move out of here goes for the man who call new method just drops down 100% commitment there if that didn't go right you feel like he might have lost his front teeth now gets himself up this is looking good from tomorrow to marinara sake one minute 40 left on the clock he may not need much time because he's on the second to last hole he's eyeing up the top just trying to figure out what to do with that right hand and there it is the Timon pop makes quite a big distance look very very small when he does that that was really nice he was so close to the wall that he couldn't actually see the little screw on jib on the right-hand foothold I just had to feel around for it with his right foot let's have another look he seemed just wiggling his right foot around there just to find the little jib couldn't see it sights it eventually gets it on and just pounces for the top went to Moe's in that position there's only one result so ya Cobb Schubert currently down in fifth still absolutely in this fight he was might and myself and Mike's tip for this evening not quite done as proud yet he's a clever climber thought about this m3 yeah I think the problem with them Fred these moves are so far out of the box of what's normal that you've really got to come up with something really creative Samoas method actually to be fair was relatively conventional compared to I think is Alexei Roop sauce and he only crude his method of the downwards jump and see what yeah come Schubert can do so creeped out to the right nice and easy does it every time there we go [Applause] again that familiar position of just trying to figure out which method to use it's in a relatively comfortable position he goes into the corn and didn't live Susie left it didn't look like he was enjoying that so two minutes 55 left on the clock they'll have time to reconsider think again [Music] so you know excuse me a cop pulls back onto men's three [Applause] should get back relatively quickly into that good position with the right foot out wide see the number of guys having a good feel down there by the right heart that is intended as a blocker hole to make the foot match much more difficult but there is a it's actually a reasonably good undercut but it's just not much space to fit your fingers next to your right foot f-cove looking slightly harmed so plenty of time needs is to move up the order though and say down in fifth after an extremely strong semi-final performance so you could Schubert we've just over a minute struggling to find the method looking at something different this time potentially kind of live it with the climb is the slab route 45 seconds to go probably have time for another go if this attempt ends here which it does yeah he's actually taking them out quite a few seconds each time it is on the war to get across that the position where he's falling off he's really running out of time here yeah cough Hubert I'm with 26 seconds left they're mounting up on to the starting position at this time 20 seconds left looked around to the clock [Applause] desperately short of time here cuz we know what's left on this border unless you can find something very special is in big trouble is not meant to be for Jakob Schubert no tops for him and we move on to immense number four and the last border of the competition so the roof set is really varying it up m2 absolutely magnificent Boulder and then a brilliant slab immense resource orts of imagination and a tough challenge for the climbers to slow down in that way man that's where it leaves things yone crude it can just about be caught but he's not too far off the first World Cup win yeah if you're only crew defines that top now that is it he wins the competition and get ready for him to rip the roof off he does put on [Applause] yeah just to confirm you know crude is on the wall there he is so we were chatting a little bit about this Charlie can you and they crew to keep it together mentally going into the boulder number four has he got what it takes I mean we don't know how hard this Boulder is it could be could be easy could be absolutely the Living End and yeah there's a fact that it goes into that it's just the only crew that goes into the final Boulder with the ability to win his first ever World Cup and can you keep it together I think he can yeah it's a cool calm collected guy doesn't take anything too seriously very emotional wears his heart on his sleeve I think he'll just come out give this bowl that everything he's got and I suspect could reward him yone cruder if he tops his Boulder he wins the World Cup it's that simple he is focusing really hard now in in his trying even harder you can see him puffing goes for the top trim he's digging so deep now yoanna cruder it goes out with that left hand on to the volume that small yellow hole at the top of your screen is the second-to-last hold the one above it is the top it's a huge yellow volume he's not far off you know this Boulder is a real test of stamina and endurance they've done a lot to get to this stage a bizarre tour of all sorts of abilities needed strength jumps you name it it's been in there and now they've got some brutal hard climbing yeah two minutes 20 left for uni there is the top hole so he had a hand on the one just below it was on the mat so it's always a bit of a tricky one how aware climbers are I mean you know he's got three tops also wonder how much attention they pay because if you start wondering about how everyone else is doing strategy bit he must have a pretty good idea what a top means here yeah I think he'll run the clock right down now all the way down to a minute or 30 seconds assuming he's feeling confident on the first couple of moves and I think that is exactly what he's thinking about there is come on you only get it together well he's got a difficult decision and this is where having not been in this position before where you could win a World Cup get slightly tricky because do you conserve all your energy and just give it everything for one last go or do you think well I'll set off with a minute in a bit left and then if it doesn't go well I can just have an all-or-nothing go attempt at the end do you take the full rest or not it's a tricky on it I'm not sure he's decided yet I think if you rest for another 30 seconds we'll know our answer I think he's slightly hedging his bets here you know I think this is I really wanted on this go but I might just about have time to pull on for another if I need it that's the tactic that's pretty hard campus crossover move there at the beginning and maybe that's what he was thinking it could be hard to have a easy to slip I should say so unique Rudy's up to the zone and that yellow bolt on now going out left that is the top hole at the top that's you own a cruder winning his first World Cup if he can latch it oh that's incredible moment he knew he's coming off and just tried to stop pedal is air pedal his way to the top in absolute desperation he's gonna put on for another go I'll be absolutely blown away if we can find the top after that he's giving it everything he's got and put on an incredible show the only crew to never be accused of not giving that 100% couldn't quite manage it but he's sitting pretty first place he got the zone on all the boulders that could be key now here has the most agonizing weight of his life he had to wait all the way through the semi-finals to see if he made it into the final dropped in in the 6-7 position and now he's got the weight of his life to see if anybody can find the top here yeah well my crew can already tell he's guaranteed a place on the podium he's got three tops and there are four climbers who don't have two tops so he can't be caught on the podium but be on the podium what color with the medals be poor old uni cruder this has got to be horrible to watch one thing that's wonderful about the climbing scene is how much that climbers support people that are really their rivals but it's still gonna be a tough watch him I'd like to rob solve doesn't have many attempts but if you get says he can not many attempts you can move ahead of Vionnet there really interesting start to men's competition is actually a bit of a jump into the start position that is allowed that will control those hand hold you can just touch that really bad textured foothold and then you effectively just smear on the panel or on the volume and pounce over to the right hand crimp really powerful when to the men's competition I'm gonna fought this we really suited Alexei style the feel is paid on that he's asking for a brush on that crimp twice now you wonder if his skin suffering a lot the climb of skin is definitely suffering especially after men's number two even though Alexi did fine that sort of more staticmethod more brushes moving in now so close this competition Alexa does have the ability to win here but I keep a close eye on the number of attempts sticks the crimp this time now he's pushing out on to the second half of the boulder I think he's already had too many attempts I think this he's fur tempers already so don't think he can knock yoni off here [Applause] yeah we'll just went to less cost come through terms just researching something I'm not sure on the number of attempts here but can we see a toffee on it i'm alexi room saw he's usually a lot of energy it's search of steep section of wall to be moving around like that and slips again I'm pretty sure as you say Mike that's too many attempts yeah you only can breathe one sigh of relief out of two and that was quite interesting from an XE there didn't like the zone hold too much maybe a skin suffering on that flat hold volume goes once again the left hand two more in cut crimp touch to stabilise for that moment but then got himself in all sorts of trouble and couldn't reverse it so he knows that's not the right method I tell you what we've had very contrasting finals here and marring and in the women's it was kind of if you didn't manage your Boulder that was the end of it in the men's it's just been through so we've had so many near misses it feels like I've had my head in my hands metaphorically so for so many cornu he could have won this competition if he'd had a bit more luck Alexi rubs off will not win now he has burned through too many attempts to catch year and a cruder so to mow and our sake he's got quite a few attempts spare us she will get to that in just a second but he could catch you and a crooner but you and I now we'll get at least a silver medal water saw it would be if he could make it a gold as focus for now on and lakes he rubs off he could cement his place on the podium continue his run of podiums in Marion [Applause] and he's looking tired Alexi you know he'll never be a lack of effort but if ants got their physical limit and I think Alexis just found his there don't forget your chalk bag Alexi and off he goes yeah fouls out there I think it's gonna be a bit of a battle of the skin here as to who takes away the medals the guys are getting pretty shredded on boulders two and three and yeah you can see you'll actually they're really suffering on a few of the crimps and struggling a little bit towards that top of that Boulder really couldn't find the right hand position or the body position not quite sure what it was on that zone hold on the black volume fired up to the crimp for the last effort but such an Enka crimp and I think the only reason really yearning crew don't manage to hold those holes which is from pure psyche for the wind John munch Owen on the other hand is known for his crimping ability so he's not really in the running here but this could give us a good insight and maybe a top on this Boulder don't want shun I think this is a boulder he will you will enjoy pretty straight up hardy yardage if there's one thing he's good at its pulling hard so he's popping over relative ease although the grimace betrays the effort over to the zone [Applause] that was close really close before Tom would have a really good Shafter that and you only crude his effort on this is looking more and more impressive at the moment you hadn't managed to get himself way all the way through the boulder up into the finish hold and he's still currently sitting in first position it's gonna be all eyes onto Monera sake when he comes out in a couple of climbers time beside the medals she's doing their thing two minutes thirty left for John want John to figure this one out this sir fold and not have any top so far you'd have thought at first glance he's this man on camera now would be the one climber who will stand a good chance on it if someone's going to get it okay pulls on two minutes to go jeong-hwan Shawn he's not going to make it on to the podium here you could get his season off to a very handy start the defense of his title and to say the the guys at the end here and looking completely exhausted and I'm sure that's obviously down to the Torah folders that had but also just a frantic night of energy from the crowd the emotion everything is all played part that played its part and then looking absolutely gasps to have to say John want Shawn would normally eat this type of folder for breakfast he's just struggling he's opting to put swap on that lower foothold it does sneer at that time but all the other guys running a bit more success to smearing off the wall proves how bad that Ford is if it's better just to ignore it and smear on the wall that is to actually use it yeah as you say Mike fatigue certainly a factor not just fatigue from the boulder they're on but just cumulative effect also hard at the start of the season moderate your energy use it wisely John Sean two-time World Cup overall champion a third this year and you really do join the great psychic shout now he's on 40 seconds to go you can see the power of him when he lets go with that foot and still manages to stick the right hand now heading out left so no problem see how hard he's having to work it's giving this absolutely everything and that will be that for John want John chooses not to have a final rushed attempt he's done so puts him into four he had a really good go that for a second there I thought he might be now to control that top right hand crimp hugs all around John goes into a hug with the only cruder is all about yoni CUDA right now and Samoan era sake but out next it's gonna be tamil rakhi yeah just to bring you up to date with the scores believe it on melt man work or new who's currently down in seventh with no tops could actually catch an overtake John one Sean it would be for a podium place but he could move himself up the rankings so everyone still in this final something to play for might not be excuse me medals it's certainly high ranking points yeah maybe thinking about John munch on that if he was in a shout for a middle position there he may have given that a bit extra mister graph you can see at the moment as a results just to Milwaukee on the wall at the moment currently looking a lot more cops comfortable and confident on this bolder than some of the other climbers there everybody has struggled with this zone hold at the moment doesn't like it has a look at some other options get the left foot out with relative ease tries to cross through no joy that time - Meraki - cutter great to see him in the World Cup again currently sitting in fourth place [Applause] can't just look at the scores can't make it onto the podium could really cement fourth place for himself just in this pause and you actually have to say what an incredible finals performance really from that man we just saw off to the side of stage area and they crude had just slipped into the finals tied with John went on Alexei ripped off got himself off a position into the finals and came out first and there's put on incredible show and currently is actually really look like the best climber on the night very artistic shot but we can't see much of him there he is [Applause] so he's latched the zone with no problems have that anyway now it's just that right foot cutting off and as you say he might slightly slow nature the Moose climbers just looked tired yeah I think we've I mean these are minuscule polyurethane edges we're talking about up higher on the boulder here as well and think like you know we've said about an hour ago that it's getting pretty warm in here we're consuming the water faster than we ever have done for the whole evening it is hot and bad bad friction from the heat and climbing generally don't go that well together but that's the game that's what we're here to talk throughout the summer yeah certainly gets a lot warmer than this a bit later in the summer layering it's been freezing cold most of this week tomorrow a key to kata just showing so much power through that bottom section like none of the other climbers up to this moment he's obviously got an extremely large amount of talent like Brooke dabs out some method here matches on the zone powerful way of doing it almost certain this would be his last attempt he just looks so tired and it's such a physical Boulder he'll have another go good on him that was good actually drops his left foot off of the volume and dropped it underneath the sort of right foot effectively underneath that big yellow hard cabbage for another go but he's at ease how's that help wonderful performance from him great timing back in the World Cups hopefully we will be seeing a bit more of him this season three climbers to go man well corner to marinara sake Jakob Schubert [Applause] man will Colin gets his fingers checked one more time I've gotta say I don't think that that tapes gonna help him in any way shape or form on this border fingertip friction he's gonna be invited on this type of crimp just taped up on at least two fingers you saw that in the previous border you might have gained more tape now down to the bones for manual corner after an incredible show it's not going his way there's been seriously fun to watch goes for the double ya Lakes kickin he came down I should expect no shortage of effort never is from Manuel corny put on a great show tonight that the scorecard does not tell the story [Music] [Applause] really doesn't tell the story memoir corny down in the seventh we have you're just tuning in for the end of this final please go back and watch men's - before I say anything else but we have got seven men in the final here we had a tie for fifth place three-way tie for fifth place in the New Year semi-finals hence is having seven climbers coming through to the finals in the women's final which was won by Miho nanaka we had traditional six mio Nanticoke you Noguchi any only garber at the podium Manuel Korn who looks like a tired climber yeah he's absolutely hanging out there at the moment his skins basically completely disappeared his Energy's gone he knows he can't really do too much now it's down in last position we know top like said scorecard doesn't really reflect his actual performance he can take away plenty of positives from this mat once again it's gonna be the story of men a corner falling off the top of some boulders tragic stuff and yeah I think this is gonna be two minutes with men who call him really really struggling at the start of a border yes certainly I think you could be right the man who took the bronze medal in the Paris World Championships 2016 it's got 2018 after a great start but I fear he's just running out of juice I hope not this is a if anyone has ever deserved the top in the bouldering final it's that man right there can you imagine the screams from the crowd if eventually found a top fortunately for him it looks like he's just there now have energy slightly Z let's see well once he's on the wall would be no lack of fight it's whether he's just got the juice left and I wondered if you would use up this final minute exciting to go for a quick Shuswap actually you change you might go for you're gonna go for is it gonna be a stiffer shoe or a soft tissue just something that you can power off that foothold never bringing his shoes out with him it's karma Drago on the right foot a really softly really good for volumes generally give contours for climbing in general quite smooth I'm sure what smooth means sorry that's terrible description soft is the word I'm looking for long night smooth as well it's not helping him forty seconds to go I wouldn't it actually when he came down with a minutes ago before he changed his shoes where he might just so you know what I'm not behind this ball and I'm really tired I might just knock it on the head but just boot the chalk bag into crowds awesome but Manuel corny just doesn't do bailing does he yeah it's a fantastic effort just to keep going at it it's really impressive Havas he's per sticking somehow he's gonna completely run out of time but still out there putting on a show maybe throwing a training lap on this men's four might get himself a zonie if he's quick enough if it goes fast I'll be interesting to see if they give him that it won't really make a difference at the end of the day won't change is rank him but nobody has contributed more to this marring and final of that men right herb Manuel caught it and he looked absolutely done in the kidney barely walk off the stage you can see his arms flopping by his side tomorrow is a rest day here we go then the biggest moment of the competition that man there on the right hand side of screen puts his head into his arms temporarily because this is it yeah we saw earlier on Akira Noguchi come out on to the last women's Bollywood the opportunity to win the competition tomorrow and era sake now finds himself in a very similar position so just to let you know it won't come down to zones it will come down to attempts so yoni cruder has three tops that required seven attempts to get them Tamera naira sake has two tops but he only required three attempts got a few to use up here I think it'll be extremely impressive if he finds a top there he is looking at your skin as well goes in for the liquid chalk like I said earlier I think it's a real skin endurance battle this final now I just want to concentrate on the actor but I think if tomorrow gets this fourth go that's enough to win the competition he's already used one now that's to again the question arises how aware in the isolation are they because if Timon really thinks about how many goes he's got it's got to be super intelligent with these attempts yeah that's not really to Moe's style you were to say as well we you know obviously an incredible athlete and he's very aware of what's going on you would have fought but he likes to burn attempts meaning you like to have quick goes make a lot of progress really quickly and every attempt is just another moment that you and a cruder just gets closer to that gold medal that first-ever gold medal just confirm our podium is now confirmed it will be in a cruder Alexi rooms of antimony our sake it's the order we're interested in this to Lois third go eeny crudo how what is he what is going through his mind as he watches this no no problems up to the zone didn't win a World Cup in 2017 after an amazing 2016 and he's got a minute and 50 seconds now get back on the top step it's agonizing you can see there i think the only crude is about to be sick from the nerves just desperately waiting all it makes widening them up at the same time it's it's definitely all eyes on tomorrow and our sake here to be honest I think that his own black hole might just be too bad at this stage in the competition for for anybody really to find the top here if it does find the top it would be just an incredible level of endurance so many hard moves to get through to that that stage in the boulder one minute 15 seconds left this is right down to the wire so tomorrow judging by how he's taking quite a long rest there could well be aware of permutations and possible results this is his fourth attempt ok it's on to the bonus sorry there's Owen it's been long night as Mike said it he's onto the so on he's off I think that could be it some money I think it's a Savini coach just walked across the front of the screen pumping his fist in joy toward you and a crew disposition he feels like he's done enough we could be in for a big bite they're already celebrating they feel it is an absolutely no way to mow a narrow sack you can do it there right there right to marinara sake can't catch you journey cruder is going to win his first World Cup he he likes to make party at all times my ringin really needs to watch out watch out tonight tomorrow now sake he'll pick up a silver medal still no gold for him for the best part of a year and a half but he's close he's very close [Applause] journey through des is a world cup winner getting a hook up everyone Eddie the photographer great effort I mean couldn't happen to a nicer guy realistically in the way that he did men's number one was awesome the way that he did men's number two though the sort of six move double catch was absolutely mind-blowing his ascent on the slab was just simply out the box and incredible and a really really good effort on men's number four as well really really well deserved yeah yeah Shuba I'm just looking can't make the podium he missed the zone on folder three so our podium is set definitely pump himself up the order dough could be into four pretty handy starts of the season again show me a boulder so yeah Cobb can get on with yeah he was saying earlier this is a real power endurance piece that could really suit Jakob super it'd be a really nice way to go out in the competition with the top we always like to see all the boulders top this is an absolute show of force here from Michael Schubert it's not really going to affect his performance but he's putting on a really good show and just saying yeah I'm still here I've still got something left in the tank lack of Schubert could be heading for the final top of the night key light not one yeah come Schubert tops men's for the route setters they've got it absolutely spot-on every Boulder topped what a fantastic end to a fantastic final what a night of entertainment that was it's just absolutely crazy all the way through the women's finals excellent lots of tops the men's final was like a show of absolutely never seen before in the World Cup and just to finish it on a top yak of Schubert looked like he was on a different Boulder all of a sudden yeah that is the final that will live long in the memory miring and men's final 2018 women's final entertaining but in a very different way route setters perhaps with the benefit of hindsight slightly undercooked that one but they've got the men's absolutely spot-on and there you have it Alexi rubs off finishes in third place tomorrow now sake in second and what a night marring and lock your doors yoni crude I just want to woke up and he will be on the rampage his first-ever podium in the 2017 World Cups and his first ever win in the first World Cup of 2018 and look at that smile the boulder arena admiring and is full of people and that man in the green t-shirt is going to be the last to leave I can already tell you now it's gonna be fantastic yone cruder always did so well in the big Invitational competitions never quite in the World Cups let's just confirm the final results for you and there we see it yoni crude at the only man with three tops lovely when it's not too too arbitrary it's a clean win three tops to him two tops for Tamara narrow second and Lodi room soft who complete the podium in the Accra bluebird we saw him there right at the end to claim his second top tomorrow a key to Qatar jeong-hwan John and Manuel core Newt rounding them out that scoreboard does not tell the story what a fantastic final [Music] [Music] so my absolutely fabulous final 2018 after a flyer I mean we were already excited coming into this final and moving on to Russia I mean we've been absolutely mind-blowing all the way through tonight incredible it was an emotional roller coaster from start to finish I'm completely exhausted and off to bed but it was absolutely brilliant to watch and a lot of talking points yeah I think men's to trying to Rack my brains one of if not the best bold and I've seen in the immense World Cup final there's some amazing other action as well interesting how then kind of the ambience and the whole nature the competition just got dialed down on men's three it just had such a different dimension to the whole thing well I think kind of leading on from the women's competition it was a great women's competition you know we had two very easy borders and it really ramped up three and four we had a huge time delay in the middle that just sent a really weird atmosphere into the arena everybody just take him took a breath went to the bar got himself some cakes and a beer and that really sort of just led onto what was just a frankly ridiculous show in the men's competition the brute said they really wanted to do something a bit different tonight they really said it was proper climbing all the way through qualification semi-finals and it was proper climbing in the final especially in the women's and the men's was it was just a show from start to finish and that show really was made by man who Cohen who ended up in six I think it was and that man who won you and a cruder as to his celebrations when he gets to the top is just something you will never forget in the women's competition as well it's going to be such a fight to the overall title Shauna coxy gunning for her third title we had interviewed her earlier on in the stream if you weren't watching is live go back and watch that immediately following the women's final not on top form perhaps physically but with time that will improve and she'll be in Moscow next week but a Kia Noguchi Yan yagam Bret Mahone Anaka familiar names all looking particularly formidable but don't discount young son roulette she looked fantastic all through this competition more than deserved her place in the final and Fanny geebeare also got three tops in the final the French national champion who looks like she's capable of big things this year interestingly in the men's competition just focusing back on that first for a second the Jakob Schubert would have to say looked like the fittest climber at the end of the day had the most left in the tank and you could see that one men's number for everybody else was absolutely Haggard by that point in the competition you only got quite close to the top but really looked completely gassed out but Jakob Schubert going into the season I'm sure he'll be doing plenty of mixed event so he'll be doing lead as well and for him just to go through that competition with that much stuff going on the jumps and everything else to come out and still do that last boarder really shows a fine level for him going into the rest of the season it wasn't meant to be for him today but you've got to have these head hair high off for that last Boulder see their families here they're just talking through some of our climbs German sherbet Swiss coach in the foreground there it was great when you come to a World Cup it's just a who's who your autograph book it's funny most throw cups you go to after the competition's finish there's a little bit of a downtime and then there's the after-party I feel like with tonight's competition the other party basically started halfway through the competition and it seems to just continued all the way through the next couple of hours fabulous starts the IFS c season and we've got a pretty action-packed ER calendar for you and my eyes do not deceive me we've got a very special guest in the commentary box Mike Langley again nothing personal being substituted for a third time and yet incredibly special guest hello its work thank you you're a World Cup winner how does that sound it sounds amazing you it's like wow I'm getting old you know because you waited so long for this did you only did you always believed you could do it yeah I never lost hope really yeah really it's like dream come true but well I'm really really impressed because you know the the competition got stronger during the years and I just somehow improved in the World Cup in to me it's really interesting that progress but no no I'm here but what happened when you came out for that first pole he just looked you looked great from the first second of the final yeah I don't know I did you feel good when you're in isolation do you think yeah maybe today is the day yeah I never I never compare myself to others in the eyes or whatever I was just like I think it's my mindset is set lightly because I didn't do much like specific trainings I was like really just enjoying climbing and I kind of transferred this mindset from other climbing to the competitions so I was there having fun and I think even if I wouldn't mean like climbing it's so nice that you need to enjoin it and if you enjoy climbing then the results come by what was it like when you finished because you were the first climber out and you just have to watch the others well of course it was a bit easier for me because I had no pressure but it must have been a long way there there was there was there was a big big pressure and the last problem because I I could watch Toma climbing who was actually the only one who could beat me so it was pretty stressful and those four minutes were super long you know that that was like the only hard time I had in the finals ma'am it was amazing for the rest of your life you can say I own a crew to work out winner yes congratulations thank you astok thank you and everybody at home thank you very much for lit for watching excuse me it's been a very long night but what a fabulous start to the IFS see season 2018 we'll see you in just a week's time in Moscow for balda World Cup number two speed World Cup number one if it's anything like this we're in for a treat thank you for watching

Channel: International Federation of Sport Climbing

Views: 474,144

Keywords: Sport, Climbing, 2018, IFSC, #IFSCwc, World, Cup, Bouldering, Switzerland, Meiringen, Final, Recap

Id: fBS0v29rACQ

Length: 213min 18sec (12798 seconds)

Published: Mon Apr 16 2018

Reddit Comments

[u/ac3y]

How does the IFSC clock keep fucking up? It's a clock. It's like one of the most simple electronic devices there is.

[u/Scarabesque]

The men's final was absolutely amazing start to finish. Normally not a fan of overly dynamic problems but M2 was pretty cool, especially considering the variety of solutions. The slab problem was interesting, and the remaining two were really well set, straight up hard climbs.

The women's final was probably the worst I've seen yet - I normally enjoy watching the women's finals more than the men's.

[u/philcruicks]

Women’s wasn’t the best final I’ve seen, mens’ was absolutely cracking! Some great routes and sends. M2 both Takata at 2:17:40 and Cornu’s move at 2:21:30 are insane. and a shame Shauna Coxsey is still recovering from injury at the mo :(

[u/karlyeurl]

The stream was super laggy. I still can't believe they thought they could make anyone pay for that last year.

Mens' problems were cool, but the womens' were not that spectacular.

[u/thekevinwang]

Miho on the slabby W3

[u/chestnutman]

Jakob was probably thinking "Let me just quickly flash this so we can wrap up the event"

[u/[deleted]]

I know the IFSC does not allow downward jumps, is the actual rule about the top of the volume? It looked strange to me that we could see 2 problems with downward jumps on men's finals.

On M3 it might not have been the intended beta, but jumping into the black round volume looked quite effective. (Jernej Kruder did it this way )

On M2 as well, the place to catch the zone was below some of the holds used for the coordination dyno. (Manu Cornu highlighted this)