IFSC Climbing World Cup Hachioji-Tokyo 2017 - Bouldering - Finals - Men/Women

[Music] [Applause] [Music] good afternoon as it is here in Japan and welcome it is the final of IFC Boulder woke up number four and we are live in Tokyo home to 38 million people and over 100 climbing gyms Tokyo is an extraordinary mix of the modern and the historic and before we show you this afternoon's Final which will be women followed by men because it with a few of the finalists just after the semi-final finish to get their thoughts tell us how the semi-final was you had a bad start on number one but then it was better and better yeah yeah the the start of the first Baldr the first one is very cool I got the top with the left hand and and I in touches with my right hand up I am my foot go out and and I can go have maybe it's finish I go out the second builder it's not so hard I am i think this buddha in first one that's cool this earth it's a hard Buddha cream I don't like that cream and and I go at the bonus that is good and the top is for Boulder I flash it it and it's it's a school from our finished Buddha yeah yeah how was your emotion when you were watching Jung Hwan Sean I'm stressed a little bit no no it's it's a game the game I have a I have a little chance at little Lukey change for for go to the final and I take it that is cool Shangguan fall in this Bulldog is very technical it's not cheesy Boulder it's very technical in and I'm today just i'm like 'man just does that and after we have a new competition the final that's cool the style of the voters were were perfect I think this was the best time we found around of all the competitions I love the I love the builders and I really enjoyed them I am I'm also a bit surprised about my performance here but the end I'm looking forward to the finals why did you say you're surprised at your performance I don't know I didn't feel like a really good I'm in the ISO and also when I was warming up I didn't feel like climbing today but after that I just are no relaxed and I just enjoy the waters and it was I think the main reason why I can't say well and you feel more confident now going into the final now that the semi-final went so well yeah of course of course the semi-final round is always intense because you don't know if you're gonna make it to the final but yeah now I'm relaxed and I'm gonna just enjoy the the final you climb quite early you did really well how did you feel watching the other climbers yeah I climb in the fourth position so I did pretty well and then I was just watching everybody else climbing that I did super good attempt and I climbed my best though I wasn't that nervous I was just super happy of my climbing it was nice to see other fibre fight hard in those boulders and why do you think you did so well on the boulders today well I don't know I was like super motivated and I think sometimes you just I don't know make the good energy at the right moment and everything happen perfectly and that's what happened to me today did you feel good when you arrived this morning did you feel it would be a good day um in the warming up zone I wasn't feeling that well I wasn't I was feeling okay but not amazing but then on the border is completely different it's always different isolation and warming up and then climbing on the comp I'd like so much fun today no semi-finals I really enjoyed climbing front of this crowd and also the boulders were a lot of fun and I don't know I'm bowling so often just about having a good run I felt like really confident and I just had a lot of fun and once you reach some tops it's like so much more enjoyable and you like save a lot of power if you do it in a few tries for the next Boulder and I just went got like in a really good flow and yeah I'm super happy to make like my first finals this year and it seems like you have a bit of momentum this weekend what can you do in the next few hours to try and keep that going to the final well I mean I'm just like super happy and satisfied already to to make it into those final in this into this finals here I was pretty close in chunking I felt really strong like all the time now and I'm happy that all the training paid off now and I can show like what I got one more time in finals and yeah I mean now I'm just like chillin and yeah let's see how the balls will look like and then just having fun and finals are you not putting any pressure on yourself you're already happy with your result and you just go out and enjoy it yeah for sure I mean I think that's that's how you have to that's like the attitude you need to have I mean it's so hard to make semi finals in bouldering and it's even harder to make finals so obviously I'm really happy already and I think with the attitude of just having fun and finals you can also do well I mean and I know like I said yesterday it all depends like what kind of run you have what how the bonus will will suit you and yeah I think from the first to the sixth everything is possible for the second week remember on landing here for long as I'm here Lani just been up and have a look at the boulders you've seen very impressed first impressions yeah I think all the boulders look really cool there's some jumps there's some really technical aspects I really like that the bull digitally aesthetic all the worlds and volumes are the same color on each line if there's a couple times where you we use some holds in a lower part of the client that you don't have to admit my path to come back to so I really like that aspect of this setting do you like that type of bolder way you might have to go over to one side and then come back it's not kind of a direct line to the top of the boulder yeah I think it's a lot more interesting that other climbing I love trickier to figure out but really really cool well here are climbers heading off the stage in Tokyo extremely eventful semi final earlier on today plenty of tops more than we generally see in a semi final lady there younger gambit extremely impressive you see the Red Bear Shana coxy dominate by any means as she has done some events in the past 18 months she did enough only just on the last Boulder the semi-final but that last folder looked really easy her yeah it did hopefully she just walked up that slab but she came out with a bit of pressure on him she dealt with it really well I got my worm yeah cup Schubert both out but first Finals of the year yeah Amica L as he mentioned had to watch John Ron John compete for his place in the final John Sean couldn't do the final slab in the car was it yes sir came down to the last climate last problem that was really exciting I was sitting right behind mikail when he you know saw jeong-hwan fall that last time yeah it's exciting it was a great moment I mean obviously not for John one and I'm sorry for John one but exciting for Mikhail excited to see what this guy can do a lake to rub salt he puts a lot of pressure on himself he expects a lot from himself and when he didn't make the semi crowler's in Nanjing he's not a happy boy but it's here tonight not only semi finals final as well and there's Kate avatar be one last time out in Nanjing there are your two male 6 female finest and we didn't see it we were just treated to the most extraordinary light show on the wall apparently it's object mapping it's called so one nice thing about having very nice clean white walls you can have that sort of show I'm sure nobody can hear is that I suddenly feel very self-conscious talking this is otherwise it suddenly got really quiet in the arena okay now we can see the Connors ago one interesting thing to note about these walls is that the left one where we're seeing the climbers on now there's no tea nuts in that wall so it's everything there is screwed onto the wall where's the right wall there are T nuts when you said T notes for people about recess just explain what you mean they're the holes in the wall that you you put a bolt into them so usually holds our bolt on so there's a big hole in the middle and you put a large bolt through them otherwise if there's no holes there or say for example these big volumes the big big shapes on the wall aren't bolt on they're screw on so you take ya small wood screws and you screw them into the wall and there's none on the left-hand side of the wall no T nuts for the bolt on holds on the wall on the left side of the wall it's correct you could see it actually when it got really dark on the left the wall was just dark but on the right there was light coming from behind the wall on to get out through the T nut holes so first chance to have a look at these boulders men's one by the way there it's hard to make it out but in the topic is shot there just to the right of Shauna country she's just got a hand over it here we go there's two triangular volumes there they are on the left it's hard to make it out but the top volume is the bonus hold cases it's been one or two issues recently with what is the top mold what is a bonus hold right and they're touching but yeah still only the top volume counts as the bonus that's right yep that sort of been told by our technical team in there is your start list Petrik linguish on the to me hone and lack of fantasy very keen Iguchi Anya Gummer it would have final that promises to be and then we'll have mckayla maroney a consumer to Marineris fe carry on Tesla issue mat-su and legacy rooms of and cater with tar B so we're going to split the finals we did this in Japan last year so the women will climb first we'll have a complete final for the women and then it will be the turn of the men so climbers split now men's two is on the left-hand side of left hand section of wall and the women on the far right on the yellow cheetah hold this men's Boulder with the read volumes I think we could see quite a few different approaches to this one could be done per tent possibly statically there's a good look at it might also see some jumps imagine for tomorrow and our second traps definitely that first move is gonna be or I'm pretty sure it'll be a big coordination jump sort of one two three as they're miming there and then the top there's two horrible little holes in between that and the finish hold and yeah I don't know when we looked at them they looked pretty sloppy I thought maybe they were under clangs and I still think they're that's probably how they'll grab them but they look really really bad yeah it's gonna be an interesting one and that top hold by the way is not a big jug it's not a really good hold to grab that volcano yeah it's uh looks pretty sloppy to me it's pretty hard to hold and women's to the yellow cheetah holds you we were on the map not long ago this one perhaps relatively easy to read and lest has been a trick inserted by the route setters could be yeah so you go out to the left and then come back to the right to that volume at the top of the screen just almost disappearing yeah that's right Canyon Shawna sharing information they've been head-to-head all season it's very much carrying on this evening yeah I mean it looks like that way from the scores but they're they're actually really good friends and it's that's the nice thing about climbing is it's an individual sport still so it's you versus the wall you can see the rankings a Shana I've been 80 think that says it should be too lazy I think that might be the old rankings there's a legacy again I think just pulling out front there but yeah it looks as if these rankings haven't been updated from the last World Cup apologies for that is are not the rankings anymore Shauna's on there 282 winners in the second so it's a hundred points for a win and 80 points for a second yes checker yeah so even if when we see the updated rankings even if yamir was to win tonight and Shauna was second Shaun would still be in the overall lead right okay it's actually Shaun will get the rankings up for you in just a second but to Shawna has a bit more of a lead it initially looks I think it's a forty three point lead as I say well confirm yeah cuz she bit had a pretty hard time in China with illness I think it was down to some dodgy air conditioning somewhere but I'm not sure how you can pinpoint it so accurately here we go a good portion of the Austrian team and the Germans got a sort of cold flu in China is unfortunate so we're already on to the third bollocks woman's won using these really aesthetic blue and white simple holds yeah I've never seen the before but they're they're nice yeah they're kind of huge volumes and only very small sections of them a zero friction but they're really cleverly placed it's a white setting the volume and so these ones that they're looking at now the white zero texture sections are on the front facing sort of in a place that you wouldn't grab but there's a lot of other ones on the wall that have been used for different rounds there are a couple on for this round as well that have entire sides for example of a triangular volume where an entire third of the volume is no texture two seconds ago we didn't get much of a look at men's three we will later on because as I say we're splitting the finals yeah well we focused on that climb for a while man we have plenty of time to look at them later on and so that finally they come back together women on the Left men on the right women on the green volumes hard to see from this solve distance we're going to close up when the women are climbing but that last move to the top could be several variations on how that's done bout yeah I think so you could jump or you could do it statically in a very tension T sort of way it'll be interesting and many's bold for another one of those simple holes just to the right of em for you can see a blue and white hole that's one of the simple holds we were talking about there's another one directly above the start hold a very very powerful Boulder members for yes very slow P very powerful very overhanging so what's hard especially as Boulder for and the fact that they climbed this morning that's you know fatigue will probably start to show in this Boulder yeah a relatively short turned around as well because we finished a fireman what course past 11 yeah let me find out yeah I say five yeah fourth of fun semi semi-final at quarter past eleven three hours later that the back on the stage yeah yeah short turnaround if when you've got that long as it offers an athlete what you tend to do you try and stay halfway warm or will you do a small cooldown and then try and have an hour of complete rest how would you manage such a short period um yeah I would do a little bit of a cool-down and then personally I wouldn't need that much of a warm-up again do you find that once you've climbed once that day you can it delivers a lot quicker yes a lot quicker for sure we shall see whether it's the interesting as you would it be marginally easier for the women with the shorter break but they can kind of stay warm was the male climbers now have to go for over another hour in isolation that's true so but maybe it'll be better for the men because they have more rest you never know I know it we won't be able to directly compare but it's certainly an interesting factor and fatigue not only of climbing in qualifies yesterday semi-finals this morning finals tonight but also the third week in a row of competition of different hotels different food flights different gyms so fatigue on several levels and of several types likely to be a factor yeah Travel fatigue is is real it's very real so the stage goes quiet once again we feel slightly self-conscious talking otherwise Sun arena we may be about to see it the light show I hope so yeah it was extraordinary testing it out the other day so something to behold yeah technology takes into account the shape of the walls you get a completely flat image on an otherwise not very flat wall oh I didn't I didn't realize that it was we're seeing it kind of from the side from where we're in the commentary booth so slight dramatic poles here in Japan I'm very excited what's together bring we we're hoping it's going to bring Petra clinger the world champion out first and also some lights hopefully some lights of lights yet the moment smile ever so slightly when someone just drop something down the front of stage with a big clang echoing around the arena but we're ready to go so we'll be the women's final first followed by the men after the men's final would have the presentation for both men and women we can see there the venue here in hachioji sold out two days ago and apparently I can't honestly say I was there to see it firsthand but apparently there were people queuing to get in at 4:00 a.m. what and that's where we are we're in the hachioji it's on the west of Tokyo it's about an hour train ride from us to Shinjuku which is sort of the most famous and busy and crazy parts of Tokyo and although we're an hour from the very center of Tokyo it still feels pretty built up Tokyo causes the biggest single human settlement on the planet third of the Japanese population lives in this city yeah even an hour away by train it's Hachioji is still pretty dense with you know high-rises and it's quite strongly how long you're going past skyscrapers for yes very you go past something anything well that's the size of London that's the size of Chicago and they're right next to each of the skies it is Patrick and we're underway so sir a dramatic pause so here she is kept circling lit well champion doesn't mess about at all obviously happy with the year the information she collected through observation nice cutter and then they said guess is one of those moves you're talking about where you go out to one side and then come back yeah no we were trying to decide when that climbers would stay up high here looks like hatch is opting to do that and she shall then drop back down low yeah so these next three black small crimp olds they're dual tech so only one side of each of the holes has enough texture to grab which makes this move may be harder than you think it would be you just give you some idea at least vaguely overhanging the wall there just about others a better angle so to the left we've got men's one is a slab Petric no driver on a slight overhang and it's a flashing Petra one attempt from one climber we've got one top but I am by the way managed to track down the source of Petra's elbow trouble she's quite seriously damaged one of the ligaments in her elbow and it's being held together pretty much by the tape what I understand I think her coach told me a possible partial tear one of the ligaments in her elbow yeah but a bit like him the cruciate ligament in a knee when it's really badly damaged there's not that much pain you just don't have any strength it seems to be working okay right now she said I mean we saw with a knee injury earlier this year he's got no problem climbing through pain but from my understanding of the nature of the interest shouldn't be super painful but it will be a real lack of power but there's a boulder earlier on in the semi-final where she really had to press hard on the left arm all the force go through the elbow didn't seem to trouble her at all so no potentially quite a serious injury but temporarily at least she'll be able to fight through it so Shauna's out qualified fifth had to top the fourth boulder in the semi-final and did so under under a bit of pressure duly delivered every now and then you think she might just be human and then ribs you run and then she proves you wrong yeah she doesn't give much of a of light to her competitors now she's in a very comfortable position on this woman's one Petric ling were just blasted I'm sure Shawn was aware of that when Petra strolled back into isolation after a minute or so and thus it's promising so these black holes are the ones you were talking about with the dual texture you can kind of see that one side of each of the holes is a bit shiny and yeah those are the portions that are I have no texture heading to the left could it be too nice two flashes two climbers two flashes nothing to separate your honor and Petra at this stage well we're making quick work of this woman's problem one so far under this final lesson four minutes old and already two tops already to Thompson throughout next we will have Meehan and maca so a good semi-final came out for the last Boulder already qualified for today's final and gets a good reception from the local crowd don't forget as ever get in touch on Twitter we're on air and a much more sociable time for Europeans and we were this morning in the semi-finals hashtag I foresee WC on Twitter landed yep is alongside big we're actually going to have a tactical substitution like we did in the semi-finals after the women's final in time for the men's but we will keep the identity of our new guests secret at least the nationality won't be changing oh there's a clue for you so me how can she make it three through three means very early days in this final but looks like you have to have you want to be a oh yeah Sue's capacit and she does even quicker than Shawna finished with 306 shoulders probably took about 15 seconds long I had a good break bridged in the gap that you can see there above me her shoulder let's have another look at the jump so Kara it's nice yes Paul slightly on that first volume that's a jewel texture crimps you're talking about rather well not really causing any problems at this stage I like the inside flag that all the competitors have done to finish that Boulder to match the finish hold it's not nice and neat move rather than doing a messy foot switch just just a nice inside flag now next this is Fanny G they're friends again had a fantastic semi fighters who's in the lead for the vast majority of the semi finals to climb 17 and so if you qualified 17 to climb four had a fantastic semi flash three boulders and was holding the lead for a long time ended up third into the final new shoes into the final with the quite a lot left of the semi nice stuck it just about stuck it really the first climb we've seen because if she a few issues of that move but she got it done yeah what impressed me most about her climbing in the semi-final I mean despite the fact that she looked so strong was she didn't do the first problem and sometimes that gives competitors trouble because you know in their head they're starting freaking out a little bit but she came out calmly and flashed the next three which was exactly what she needed to do and that was really nice to see ya yesterday and a store mentioned that she if she has a bad bowl that she struggles to get back in the zone mentally certainly wasn't the case of fantasy bear this morning no first final of 2017 also made the final here in Japan last year and like three climbers before her this is flash well although we've split their finals at this stage it's still being for a fairly short afternoon yeah for climbers for flashes have another look at her Fanny on the jump just about circuit that right hand these are pretty good hold it here's the finish no problem and as you said a little dab of the foot I think the smile [Music] this should be a big cheer key and Iguchi full-time ball the world help overall champion and hometown hero yes [Music] interesting to see how she copes at the home crowd even most people with climb in front of their home crowd patrocle England Switzerland for example or the French climbers were in Germany and Bree Ansel it's one thing to climb in front of a home crowd it's another to climate further the sold-out arena a huge pressure last year it didn't seem like she dealt with the pressure of the home crowd very well no and 21st if I remember rightly has oh just missing semi-finals I have to say looked one of the standout climbers in the semi is today oh yeah four tops and making very light work as all the climbers have done I should add women's one lining up for the top just tying it up just take your time finds a sweet spot and does do the footswitch it gets a big round of applause so we just mentioned the pressure doesn't seem to have affected it too badly nope although she looked quite relieved to flash that one I'm sure the pressure builds and I so as you realize that every single person in front of you is flash flash the first problem it's a good point actually because Akio is coming out faith for clim has come in each of them after one minute with a big smile on their face yeah so yeah me gambit alone on the stage I have to say from watching her all of last season particularly in the lead competition she seems impervious to nerves fear or any of the year falling or falling gravity really heavy used to gravity's good trait to have the climber is very and yep as I suspected also made that jump boob look really easy Jana has been amazing on the jumps so far on the circuit this year flashing jumps that took other climbers you know 510 attempts and again climbs quickly not messing about probably well aware that anything other than the flash puts her at an immediate disadvantage in this final that worries for 45 seconds after emerging onto the map she goes back in well I mean normally in the finals you've got a long rest but this time just look at the clock yeah the final started 10 minutes ago we're on to Boulder - that's goodness the way if you split the finals like this you want the boulders to run a little bit faster otherwise people are gonna start falling asleep you know well yes specially if you watch in North America be the middle of the night try and keep you awake and I don't know how much better we can do than six flashes do you need to start separating these climbers Oh see you the women now onto a yellow values if you remember during observation the cheetah holds fire rate of the wall exactly far right so you can see Petra running away from our camera at the far left of the wall we're taking our feed as with the semi-final from Japanese TV today amount of cables and cameras and TV trucks is ten times more than we're used to seeing at the European events exciting so his Petrus you'll move out left and then come back right just talk us through how you read this one um I thought that you might go up to the crimp above where she is it's hard to see but obviously she didn't but yeah this is pretty much when I read going out here now he'll hooking and then bumping the hands up up to the getting up to the bonus hold you can just about see the crimp you mentioned it's about a meter to the right of the volume that Petra's got a right hand on tiny it's hard to see you like a lift this yellow slug in the middle of the wall yeah oh that's a big move here's a big move to the bonus hold and now it's a case of this this is where the elbow if there is a problem with it could really show itself because you've got to pull and press but I think she can compensate with leg strength here yeah I'm really hoping oh yeah I just saw that rubble works away right to the volume in the next hole there's a top one so this there's a hole Thank You Petrus yeah still haven't spotted it there it is you see what I mean when there sits a tiny hole slightly different yellow color I think then the volumes I have to say when we when we look at the bowl is I didn't actually spot it initially yeah it's that small probably a good definition of a small hole when you don't see it when you're right up at the wall yeah so she's launching from the top hole it's relatively good oh not good enough so for the first time in this woman's final climber falls off a boulder famous last words yes last old is good and then the fireballs it's it's relatively good at the right-hand side of the leaves slightly better yeah I have time to go up on that sometimes we get yeah sometimes we have time to go up on a stepladder and actually feel the top holes there's a tiny hole we're talking about hopefully we can see the very top hole as well just a second or then again maybe not but yeah this I don't think there's anything on that top volume any screw on hold I think it's just just the volume that you have to jump to and catch not wasting much time petrol gets back on the wall no in the same technique not go she's not going to use up my new hold no there's anything looking the foothold it's a really really small if you want if you're by the way if you're watching the scores live it was initially showing up that that was Petra's sixth attempt in order to get the bonus hole but they have been corrected so if you're following the scores on your phone or your computer or your app they've now been corrected holes is right takes a bit longer this time 50 seconds to go plenty of time but it it's quite a time continuing bolding just because of the nature of the volumes you can't afford to make to you've moved struggling a bit more with this stand up it's teetering offer left to force going through the knee that's it no doesn't want under the go thirty Seconds she's not to take it four minutes flat here in the finals this year traipse is off interestingly enough just have another look left hand just went but interesting enough it was on this panel that we had men's warning the semi-final and a bit like we saw from Petra there the first attempt at virtually every climber was better than their later attempt and it seems to be the way with Petra first attempt slightly stronger his Jonas did enough to get in it's very calm and composed shall we just walk so calmly ode to her boulders like she's got all the time in the world I mean they're not gonna start the clock without her there so it's a good point I mean you had your final in there chunking and that's exactly what she told me she said don't run anywhere cuz they're not gonna start without you I really should have told you that I mean I guess your instinctive adrenaline and the way that I was looking is just to run across absolutely yeah but you know her her theory is why waste energy absolutely right yes very clever competitive after or in Colleoni in the semi-final heard british team mate and he was talking about that what a wily competitor she is really thinks through every element of the competition yeah so now this is the press mover we just saw her it's funny look Patrick what like she made that move look so easy the first time and it was only the second time that I even realized that it was difficult at all just as she looked like she was getting a tiny bit of friction out of the bottom of the volume obviously there's nothing to actually hold there but this it's enough just to study yourself on the top of that volume but she's grabbing now is also not very good so Petra had her hand on the top hold left hand load with the left hand I think was just a bit too far of the left of the sweet spot Shawn a lawn chicken looks like relatively low down could she perhaps get the left foot higher I think she's considering it yes she does Oh doesn't like it though see the higher you get on that handhold though the worse it gets so I think you just need to explode from low down Oh [Music] interestingly enough it as soon as she's she launched there it looked as if she knew it wasn't going to work almost tried to come back but then that hold is just too bad can't second guess you can see it here our foot popped yet tried to correct it still got a minute 30 but it's a time-consuming Boulder we saw it in the Sammy's a lot of the volumes use today you have to be so specific in your movement you can't rush what time though the bonus on the hair room first attempt she just needs the top bonus hole is the hold on the left the climbers push off in order to get that second-to-last volume you can't quite see the tape hopefully as our crane comes around to the left you'll see hopefully you just see that circle bonus hole is it's that one yeah you watching balding for the first time Midway up each Boulder have a bonus hold clearly marked with a gold circle that says bonus and a piece of tape denote in which hole they're referring to so let's see Shauna this time the move balls margin she's not quite on the hole just yet and again just gets a tiny bit of use out of the bottom part of the volume but mostly just standing on that foot there I only got 15 seconds left she can't hesitate again she's got to go for it she goes through and she will not top the boulder Oh five seconds left it won't be enough for any sort of attention she's off so from a boulder everybody flashed too to a last ruthless to a last move that everybody's struggling with say Shawn I got the bonus first attempt as did Petra I'm tired on scores this evening this afternoon hey what the Japanese organizers doing a great job of pumping up the tension here for each time you have ten seconds of complete silence and darkness yeah it's great to put on the show and the crowd is great cuz they're very quiet in between climbers they played their part to someo nanaka first Japanese climber to its heaviness Boulder that drop down move to the left we also identified as potentially being quite tough but they've made very light work of it oh you're looking the opposite side of that volume the other girls just yell at the top of it so straight up the bonus as we saw with Petra and Shana two third places already this year from Lee hope no wins as of yet won two World Cups last year [Applause] she's trying to figure out trying to figure out how to get a left leg around that volume nowadays like Shauna just just finds a bit of friction on the lip of the volume cheetah holds into Lauren Laporte's hold and the one who write hands-on is actually flat halt from Manuel has where yeah mom who's in my ring him yeah he's the head setter for the Mumbai World Cup last year and Navi bye-bye which was run by Miho nanaka there we go that was her first win maybe his holes will do the trick today even though he's not setting so as with Petri and left hand onto the top but not a right as well closer than Shana both of Shawna's attempt she just seemed to slip as she went mijo close it got a three fingertips or so on to the top hold it seemed like a Shawna's foot wasn't staying on that tiny little yellow holds very well but both Petra and hijos seem to be able to stand up a bit better on that one but as you rightly say the higher you get the worse the handhold becomes yeah it'd be interesting as this final progresses to see if anyone tries to do it slowly slowly gradually easing their way up I'm gonna say it's not gonna be Anya probably I would agree we'll see recede mijo now the third climber to attempt to jump second to have her hand on the top hold as yet we haven't at the top just tuning in we had six flashes on women's Boulder one from all six climbers and we're splitting the finals we've got the women followed by the men today and not running simultaneously this is live on one of Japan's leading national TV stations wow that's pretty cool not with us I'm afraid the pictures are done I've been trying to pick up a bit of Japanese but live streaming might be a little beyond me after six days practice all I can say so far is thank you very much that's all you need just a very polite country just keep saying that and smiling everyone the unfortunate thing is I don't know how to say you're welcome so if somebody says thank you to me I just say thank you back to them come on mijo let's have a look at me home lining up the jump should go with the left hand oh that was close to that time you suspect if she had a third go she might make it so the climb is all tied at this stage with the all of them haven't got a flash on Boulder one and the first three climbers that we've seen on Boulder 2 or flashing the bonus none of them getting the top so close and again a bit like we've talked to them earlier on about how when people come back into isolation and minute in by the same token if you're in isolation now you're going to know they come in with all their time you use dealt with problems ago we didn't do it and no big cheer from the audience no yeah it's a good point cuz we've got three thousand people in the arena so funny geebeare the next try hair look in the semies it was either a flash or nothing at all for fanny so she keep that up here she's on the first Boulder don't forget and get in touch on Twitter hashtag ifs CWC self and Ilana here in hachioji Tokyo fourth Bowl the World Cup of 2017 a third in a row our third and Asia this is the year the end of the Asian tour for the bolder athletes she just made that stand-up look really easy like Petra did the first time Oh her foot doesn't stay on the little screw on hold there very interesting in this final so far that all the women have pretty much had the same luck with every boulder or flash the first relatively easily and I'll still at the top hold on their first attempt exactly an old slapper top hold it all being stopped by the same move and the or crews the same moves on the first Boulder so the route setters are always trying to achieve what we call separation so that we get a result we don't have to rely on count back to previous rounds but as yet neck-and-neck but I mean there's still two and a half boulders to go so we got time this might make it more exciting so you know we're down to the last boulder and we have no idea who will win it could be anyone really I think it the last World Cup for the women's field it was was I right it was in the last Boulder Shawna had already won or it was not quite maybe trying to customer mine bow I can't remember actually look if I could find the repay fizzle long time ago already but it happened before that shawn has walked out to her last boulder and has already won the competition yeah check the replays please so family lining up for another attempt ah slipped looked like the right foot that went that time Astra clean she's sir climbing the lower section relatively quickly particularly on that second attempt but more than enough time for another go also flashed the bonus hold so that puts more pressure on the climbers being like and with the final being like this out on your own every time I don't walk out alongside anyone who might have a final word of encouragement you're just completely alone on the stage three thousand people plus the live stream while watching and it's dark in the arena and your spotlight is very tough psychologically I think most of these girls are experienced enough that it doesn't bother them they just focus on the climbing so 30 seconds to go how much you bet can actually reach that hold that hands an inch away across to it got 20 seconds you'd imagine she will take pretty much all of them no rush at all really figure out the best place to go from ah and again left hand on to the top she gets a typically polite round of applause for me Japanese crowd it's funny that the World Cups in Japan it's pretty much only the athletes that cheer everybody else just politely applauds so once again stage is empty spotlight is on women's - I have a key and Iguchi up next there we see scores all tied at this stage [Applause] [Music] canakya Noguchi do anything about that home crowd and sure she's well aware from the fact that everybody's used up their full time allotment and as you say there's been no cheer from the crowd that top here would put her in a very very strong position why she bets now please we do have questions coming through on Twitter and we'll get to them in just a second we'll concentrate on the clear for now [Music] works the way left using the dual heel hook just maybe flinchin thought being able to be that you're not quite that flexible are you quite not flexible no pretty much did the splits on the wall that might reciprocally like we saw with them me hope really getting the most out of that heel hook straight up to the bonus so once again lash of the bonus hole hero slightly taller me hope this move shouldn't feel quite as far as it did for me ho is still wobbling a bit doesn't look very easy yeah that right foot could do it being a bit further right somehow stays on after that the slip just about holds it a second there I thought she yeah she might not suddenly that top hole looks a lot closer than it did when Miho is climbing Akio quite a lot taller that bit closer oh go for it semi statically no decided I - this is what you were talking about the hole gets worse the higher you get yeah [Music] you're just really trying to figure out how to move her body and get the most out of that whole make the jump as small as possible she just used two left four and she gets the top that's how you do it just use the left foot yeah ever so slightly I think she knows he's the first person to top that one definitely and I'm sure the other athletes you're aware of it too yeah when you're behind the wall waiting to come out to climb you can definitely hear the crowd and you're sitting in a group with your other at with your fellow yeah competitors so you know how they've done more or less so we can see that key in the Gucci two tops two boulders see if you ano can match that you [Music] young it interestingly said she didn't feel great this morning if you've been watching from the start of our broadcast early I've seen that interview she said they shouldn't feel like good in the warm-up we wouldn't have known it from her performance in the SEM ease her off days are still a lot better than pretty much everyone else in the world good days yeah wouldn't that be nice once again no trouble up to the bonus we will come to your questions on Twitter of it all the athletes so far flying up this lower section and getting straight on to the crux also negotiating her left leg there it's a little bit weird with that volume rate in the way you just got to work the left leg around it yeah he looks a quite good position here it's millimeter by millimeter the recesses must have had some fun testing that one now she's lining up for the gym [Music] will she use the left foot it seemed a cube it gives you the only person use the left foot and the only person to top not even look in Yaya and the foot slip despite the fact that she took a second to clean her shoe on her neither clever for me either she climbed some someone with maturity beyond her years but you got to think maybe that second-guessing of the cleanliness is what led her to not trust her foot enough some deep psychology going on here now you make a good point that's in your mind that your foots dirty or that that's not a good foothold then it in a way becomes a port for hold yep but she's jumping right back on for another attempt probably knows in the fact that all the other athletes came in after a full time allotment they weren't doing it so she want to have three attempts if possible ideally she'll do it next go ideally she will but it but it's possible that I think she's leaving yourself enough time for the third if she needs it yeah it's not the most dignified move that getting the left leg rack be hard to do it gracefully yeah she's got it round now [Music] she's ready to roll now she has a little look down and left last time she their eyes were just focused on heading upwards sure consider here positioning slightly more this time she's probably need another 5 centimeters on the jump to make it a lot of the competitors have been feeling around that hold quite a bit I think it's a pretty new hold so they haven't had a lot of oh I guess it so another technique all together there she put a whole left forearm onto the volume again leave it on to it quite clever actually because he got a bigger surface area more friction have another look at it you can see here she drops and left forearm or her right for a right forearm so yeah the other left and she will take that would be second place for her she's not that two-second go Kier Noguchi flash a quick question on Twitter there we go there the results for your key loading the gives you leading the way you can't get much better than that two flashes followed by yang gambit quick question on Twitter from Nathan Chou and Lana what needs to change with Canadian calm climbing to see more athletes consistently in the IFS see semies and finals is it there's a loaded question would you like a minute to consider your response yes please Nathan she will take her minutes we'll let you know Petra wins three really awkward start this one we walked up to it and all didn't really know yeah Oh both pulled that face when you don't like the look of something yeah although I left you on the maps to to come back here but what did you decide in the end would be your approach to the start and you just sort of hug the sides like that one hand on each side foot there and you get as close to the wall with your upper body as you can tap that bottom hold with your foot like that and then just kind of jump oh I didn't think that it would be possible really to get that high up I thought you just have to sort of hop one footed from the bottom [Music] desperate start these very aesthetic simple holds simple volumes simple being the brand name yes simple being the brand name the white section of the volume is useless zero friction looked as awkward as we feared it might when I sure had her first go have another now [Music] top no bonus yes yet the bonus is not the whole she's going for it's the one after SIF you've got to execute this jump oh and there's another move to the right yeah that's generally routes headers will do that bonus hope won't be the hole that you jumped to just in case there's one competitor who can reach reach reach and just barely touch it and you know get enough friction on it just to use it enough so that you get the bonus so it's not a height dependent thing drop me there okay if you thought of your answer yeah so in order to get more Canadians into semies and finals I think it's really hard there's not one specific answer but a big part of it I think is that the Canadian climbing community needs to be more accepting of all types of climbing all techniques it's not just power problems I see a lot in Canada that we only go the lowest angle wall that we use is is vertical there's hardly any slabs there's not a whole lot of volume use obviously I'm generalizing here and this is does not go for all gyms and all competitions but sort of traditional let's call it traditional Canadian style is very powerful very steep and I think that needs to change we go Nathan have not answers questions thank you that was a tough it was a tough questions kind of political very politically very loaded well done well negotiated Patrick linguist got twelve seconds to go look at anything else at least bold and she won't holds a bit of a face to say is it to say well if I was here all day I don't know how how much progress had make yeah I like a petrol species very expressive munching climbs yes yeah it's true yeah another look it's appeals backwards where she's having fun but she gave it a bit of a look yeah I think I think suggesting that she was never going to make any progress on that one so outcome was shorter very short walk to we also got a question from Nick's Nick bones tattoos like to know why they split the men and the women that was a decision of the Japanese TV company they wanted it to split their decision so I quite like it actually you don't miss anything see every attempt by every climber it's true when the roots F is set quick boulders plenty going on it works just fine and then when there's all that rest time in between we have time to talk about the boulders and the climbers and answer questions and stuff it's it's nice yeah I like I mean especially in the semi-finals it can sometimes be a bit frantic it's nice to come from watch every attempt Seana not looking as comfortable as she might like no I didn't see presumably she did tap the other fault starting home she laid in my notes good looking very far away from that next hold yeah he's a long way from it I don't think - you touch the bottom of the volume and I'm topless so hard for the route setters judge jumps like this it's so hard to grade it and figure out exactly how far is too far or not far enough on a jump we saw last weekend with three I think shorter climbers in finals but particularly Jane Kim and make attackee yeah I was really impressed with Mei though figuring out or trying to figure all these different methods of doing them during the jumps doing the moves because she knows she's a fair bit shorter because I was really interesting to watch Oh Seana touching that hold down on the volume yeah I think she got a hand to it the previous attempts and but it doesn't look anywhere near her hand good enough to hold you not quite she's getting close I mean a bit Petra looked as if perhaps she wasn't making progress with each attempt Shawna looks as if she's getting closer and closer really likes his facing out method the volume she's going for again it's not great surprise that she likes to facing out so much because you've got to get hold of what is not a great volume and simultaneously turn on it but I think there's just so awkward if you're facing inwards yeah I guess so you torso is that bit closer to the wall if you're facing out yeah see that's again this project mapping we've got here in the venue hearing Qasr we get the profile and the score of each climber and they come out one minute left you might have heard the beat through our mic [Music] so I'm just I hang it up it's great you can see the cogs turning and that was close in the crowd knew it we had a cheer from the crowd she's burning through the attempts a shot of it she probably figured out that having not topped - Boulder - and the fact that this woman's 3 is so desperate top would have come in very handy 20 seconds to go she doesn't fancy it head to room in the end of the attempts don't matter because she didn't didn't get the bonus so she was free to burn through those attempts Miho nanako's out flashes the first Boulder nested all the women / the bonus on the second but didn't get the top if you remember she's got a hands at the top quick questions well for you don't forget hashtag Rafa CWC on Twitter if you want to get in touch and lemme you woke up finalists chanting couple weeks ago a couple of weeks ago don't know if you saw it but it was pretty good Ryan LACMA wants to know if the office the athletes are aware of the unofficial fantasy league where you make your predictions nope there's I heard of that a bit like fantasy football has it been going on for a lot it's this season but you operate under a pseudonym so you could you could take part no man knows you I could I've had limited access to Internet though since we've been in Asia it's been a bit of a struggle so maybe I haven't been on social media or anything so I haven't seen it it's no money changing hands don't worry but if everyone puts five euros in a pot it could be a little little money out of there I suppose so it's all look at me huh oh that's it facing in interesting Sean I really like the facing out method Mia really likes facing in so he'll look is she just going to ignore that huge white volume I think she is know how she uses it I was trying to figure out how she's going to be the boulder without the volume heading for the top dual text to the black bit is good the white wrist is not [Applause] and that's a top for me only maca she's very happy about that [Applause] yes she is very interesting that about jump move it seemed like once she got it once she just figured out the movement perfectly didn't actually like a super hard move no just a case of being absolutely perfect in how you start that movement upwards you would see I think it's like it's feels awkward but you just once you get over it and deal with the awkwardness you can do it so mijo if only she latch that top hold on woman's to she would be sort of streaked into lead but as it is you the second place but Shawna coxy into top two or three Nihao already kind of opening up a bit of a lead over Shawna any sort of doing a half way well you have a sideways start another technique again it it looks quite promising because she's going to end up and I think he quite a good position here yeah that was really close yeah that look that look very promising the problem to me it's very hard to say from here but it the problem for me with Shorter's method was she's facing out and you're aiming for a small bolt on on quite a poor volume and simultaneously spinning your body 380 degrees I can't help thinking that approaching that volume already facing the right direction is perhaps a lot easier to simply prove that worth me hope maybe a bit less than 380 degrees of spin but I'm sorry did I say 300 ages what's a quite a 480 Fanny really getting close on that one yes she'll stick that yeah started rolling who could clean just trying to replicate that position it seemed a good waddle sidon and then as she stands up turning to face into the wall she's hitting the the sweet spots maybe she just needs to be a bit higher the USA right above where it says simple on that higher volume there is a bolt on there going for it's very hard to make it out to exactly the same color as a volume yeah but it's not just the volume itself there is a piece of bolt on hold I think she's maybe heard you they're just trying to get that bit higher before she launches Oh trying a slightly different technique both hands to the hold there yeah I think she's seems quite happy to use multiple attempts here not really worrying about attempts if she knows that the top is crucial rather than worrying too much about the attempt Nihon a knack of the only person that's really made a serious dent on the year on the boulder she goes again steadying herself at the right foot that's what we doing this she she brought the right foot on and simultaneously it causes to lose a balance you've got a jumper instantly when the right foot hit yep [Music] you [Applause] [Music] I say Heil hook oh there's the top holes there's the match slightly different Finnish approach than me ho nanaka there with the heel hook and crossover but they both work so really interested in every family gbeary to use the right foot as a toe hook just to steady yourself if you stood up as soon as you move the right foot she began to lose her balance so as the right foot hits you've got to instantly push and she got the time and perfect she's if that fifth goal it love discipline looked as if she took more attempts it felt as if she made a lot of attempts turns I was only the fifth go but I guess each attempt took a couple seconds for her to negotiate the position yes it seemed like she was on the wall a lot okey I'm not sure either such an awkward start interesting to see whether this moves I mean easier or harder for Aikido is a bit of a double-edged sword she's a bit taller so she's closer to the hole but longer limbs it could be even harder to start you can see there she's knee right underneath her chin something to compress herself so much real battle getting the knee involved it's like it that much no similar technique to Fanny geebeare though facing inwards and slightly left quick question from Maria s it's a talk about younger Gombrich she'll be out in just a second is her main discipline bouldering or lead but based on last year I think lead but it was lead last year but I think she's gonna do both this year president I would I'm increasingly saying both yeah yeah some big wins in the bouldering and IFS Sea World Cups and competitions and that's what even legends early in stock over example so don't worryingly enough for the other athletes I'd say both these days be with the Olympics approaching I think that we're going to be gonna be more and more common to say that athletes have multiple disciplines are there you know strongest or their top discipline so so Kyo really not finding the position she's not really had a serious go at this jump yet that I was pondering whether those long limbs would be a help or a hindrance this seems to be a hindrance so far yeah she's trying all sorts of different things here starting facing right certain things left in baby [Music] she passes out so this is the Shona coxy method didn't like it that much oh she's but all of these are counting his attempts got to leave the ground completely so she can once she leaves one foot on the ground she can mess about try and find the position without using up an attempt now this is an attempt so facing to the right this time ah and the MC in the venue actually gave a cheer because it was that close thought she'd made it [Music] so that was comfortably the most promising attempt from Akio almost certainly going to try that method again she can get the right foot on a slightly lower section of the volume she's just a bit to the left of the bolt on that she's getting a quick now he'll stop to go quick she'll probably know she just missed it this time she gets it so seconds now she's got the bonus time pressing right hand here's the top left hand right now that does it and that's it well that was less than 20 seconds and leaving the grounds on the top of the boulder yes it's strongly effort Miki Noguchi that will be three tops for her very impressive so young you're gone Brent and very exciting to watch the time countdown yeah fantastic so there we go that was a fifth attempt for ghio [Music] so sixth attempt that was a sick attempt on the Boulder [Music] no new Gambrell what a statement this would be flashier first Boulder of the second ball the second go surely not surely not and that's a flash a younger garment that is extraordinary because that ball that is was causing so many problems to world-class climbers I couldn't figure out how to start it let alone finish it got the starting position perfect nailed the jump Cruces hop Wow just walk the second half of that good for her so let's bring you up to date with the scores and that puts Yaya into first place with three toxin for two akio's three tops and eight you see the results on the screen Yannick ambrette three top four attempts give a Gucci me home after trailing her [Applause] [Music] so Patrick wingler see if she can do better on this Boulder than the last starting position was the struggle for her last time she could still make the podium here believe it or not Patrick linguist oh yeah she can do this Boulder in one or two attacks and nobody else and it relies on everyone else having a bit of a nightmare but it can be done it's already used at one of those attempts watch Petric quick quick question here we get this question a lot Connor Alice wants to know why do some athletes leave towels at their feet at the beginning of each climb it's to clean your shoes before you get on the climb the mats are made of or the mat covers are made of vinyl so all the chalk and dirt and dust sits on top of them so when you walk out to your problem and then you walk back into isolation your shoes get covered with old chalk and dust and it doesn't make for very good friction on the boulders so you like most climbers like to clean them before every attempt or every time thank you for your question isogai FS CWC if like so petra that is her chance at the podium gone the most she can end up with his two tops which she'll have used too many attempts to make the podium even if other climbers slip up you can move up the rankings could move up to 40 albeit temporarily in time petra really really did not like women's three at all you know I have to say she was out first I feared we might be in for a bad Boulder because it looked like she didn't see how it could be possible but then by the end of the round we had you on your guard Bret flashing it so that's cool to see just goes to show you need to watch all six climbers before you judge a boulder we're starting to do the maths here for last Boulder sticks their bonus hard last Boulder outcomes so this is more promising from petra somehow holds it move the off the bonus hold ah that's it again a tiny hold it deceptively steep section of the wall is five to ten degrees over hanging out so it looks vertical from here it's really not I think that she should have had her left foot in the pocket actually it would have stuck better [Music] I forgot dropping off not liking that skipper sir there we go Hoshi is Patrick popular that's true folks at the end 30 seconds to go now carrying a knee injury and an elbow injury yeah if that doesn't say fighter I don't know what does made finals with a partially torn elbow ligament [Applause] [Music] looks like she's enjoyed herself this evening have another look this was sir when she went with the right hand ah she tried that move ones and didn't like her launched towards it and managed to pull out at the second time she fully committed but what hang the hold and this Shana displacing Hotel we were just talking about that [Music] so Shana in an unusual position her damning for hurts downing six place [Music] so Shana takes Shana can't win should say should add already got two climbers on three top sean has only got the one so the most you can get is two tops if she takes three attempts here even if she tops on her third attempt it won't be enough for a podium so already on for a surprise dissolve just by the fact that Shana won't be fair so second and I think sticking that bonus hold puts her into fifth place already so top here in lesson three attempts will put it at this very early stage into a podium position have a look with light work of the top section but it's no pushover to the top no it's an easy for shauna static yeah did that very smoothly I think she knows it's not been her best date wait for the score September just confirm the number of attempts and I think there was a flash I'm pretty sure it was just clarified yes it was so that puts Sean into third place so we see it getting very fast score updates this week so enjoying it so this is I've got to say a fairly tenuous third at this stage she could hold on to it depending on how Leona nappa and Fanny G bear gets on yeah if Fannie and mijo don't do it then she'll hang on to that third place yeah man if they top it regardless of attempts they will knock it off the podium yeah but the way they've been looking tonight I think that they will probably both top it I think I agree with you yet to me on an a fish you can actually win here if she flashes his collar she has done yes she can win here if Akio and young you'd go to top and yeah Nia doesn't get the bonus it's a tall order admittedly a long shot but she does take first place as it stands she's done what she can do which pushes Shauna off the podium yes Shauna's stay on the podium was very short indeed she could get knocked down to fifth see it there the scores updating all the time Fanny geebeare it could overtake her she could be pushed down another place so Shauna will not keep up her extraña record in 2017 two wins in a second she won't even be in the podium today she didn't really look at her absolute best in semi still it goes to show what an athlete she is with four possibly fifth place is considered not great yeah it's true [Music] so funnies you bet she can't win she's had too many attempts on the early boulders so even if she tops this first go which she hasn't she she can't win and she can podium chicky that first move is a bit of a jump to a pocket which is pretty precise so you have to be very delicate very very precise in your job she's struggling with it fair bit more than petra shana or or Miho did [Music] so a number of attempt almost certainly rule out podium for energy bear we shall see let's not get too too lost in the maths currently sitting in fifth which you can certainly move ahead of Shana before let's concentrate on the action alright the right hand it yes this time she gets it the end of two days of competition and after the semi-final this morning this is a pretty desperate position to hang on to left hand positive but tiny just miss the the key part of that right hand it look like she's just the right of the ideal part to grab that's a hard hold to date it sorta to make it to the bonus hole it looks like you do to fairly precise right-hand jumps there just a woman at fault she left on the clock look like you just begin to show a bit of fatigue on that last attempt she said render you dreamt little people going yeah it's only a minute half left she has to fight through sir come on funny Annie just need to be a bit further left on that hole is this time [Applause] that'll be the slap of the left hand you can just see the way arroba is just beginning to come out is so tired it's just fatigue have a good time though she was absolutely delighted just to make the final already guaranteed to finish fifth or better [Music] tap on the starting hole you will know how many temperatures got left he doesn't tire but absolutely battling every go she's got to redo this tough move with the right hand and once again sticks it can she stick the left yeah and this time look much easier now she crosses through with the right hand [Music] every move 20 seconds to go I don't think she'll have another go and she won't had enough that fella geebeare thoroughly enjoyed the semi-finals and looks actually slow enjoyed the final as well so she will settle for this Seana will be fourth i think--as will be six below her so a Kia Noguchi now it's the battle for first place yeah there you can see the updated scores so Akio has two top and then hope that young Lee doesn't so we've got the rankings she can top this in the younger gambler it doesn't top it a cure Noguchi will win here in Japan that would be for tops for her she would be the only climb with four tops she doesn't have four fairly emotional minutes watching Yanni gambhira attempt to take that win away from it that would be stressful make a good start here [Music] just got to make a decision looks a strenuous way of doing that move but you made it work didn't look as if she enjoyed the pressure of a home crowd last year she's enjoying it this year put into volcano very smoothly [Music] [Applause] top hold reasonably good that the best bit is higher and she finds it so she's done what she needs to do all she can do now is watch now it's all up to Jana so Akio can't do a huge amount more for tops of hair so he goes the maths [Applause] here's Yaya various scores need to top at the very least to win to do it less five attempts looking very solid she tops at this go the mat is over I have to say not even any sign of effort on her face very smooth these are moves that stopped work last climbers the world champion was finding these moves hard yeah it's just cruising through it's the only word for it that's a top and that's a win second World Cup win of 2017 for Yaya Gombrich we talked earlier about how she's trailing Shauna Cox in the overall rankings today couldn't really have gone much better in that respect seanrid fourth yani on the top step of the podium [Music] [Music] so just to confirm the results for you there Yandy gambhira in the end didn't need to worry about attempts she flashed the last Boulder only fell once in the finals Oh once in the body is it's not a bad final almost demoralizing for the competition between occasion Miho nanaka thank the Japanese crowd very happy with second to third Shana coxy first time off the podium this year that fatties in Africa Lila rounding out the top six [Music] [Music] Melania when you watch the undergone Bret Klein what is your emotion do you think I'll never get there or is it does it inspire you guys to do better I think it inspires me my partner to train harder you know that's I believe so impressive I don't kill tasty fantastical they might believe we've actually got younger gambhira about to come over what's come on you looking to borrow your headset very much what you don't you sure know they done all this with Yashica yes maybe got to Yanni garments on the way on tourism fresh from her win Four Tops and he fell once today three flashes you know the boulder she got on her second go and here she is yeah Nia come round [Music] yeah Nia that's pretty much a perfect live into you here you are fresh in the wall tell us about the final yeah well the finals were amazing like I think it was a bit too easy the first Boulder I think with all the girls flash the first one but I think the second one was a bit tricky so the the winner was actually the one with the with the less tries so yeah I think it was amazing here and that third Boulder it seemed like everyone was really struggling to figure out how you start and you did it first time during the observation did you figure out how you wanted to do it no to be honest I didn't know how to start but then when I came out I just I don't know I just I didn't think at all I just start and I was there so yeah it was amazing and did you think in isolation about how the other climbers were doing did you know when you came out from number four that you had to top it to win yeah well the crowd is really loud so I think every competitor knew what was going on there so yeah I knew that I had to top because IKEA had four tops and I knew that I have to top so yeah and did you feel a lot of pressure or do you relish coming out knowing that there's a bit of pressure on you do you lie that feeling yeah of course that's why I'm competing I like the feeling of pressure of it so yeah I was a bit pressured for the last folder but III think I climbed quickly relax and what's your schedule now we're going to see you in Vail I don't know yet maybe maybe okay well we hope to see in Vail huge congratulations that was fantastic to watch completely dominant thank you saw it well done that was Janna gum Bret fresh from a fantastic win that was the sound of a quick high five as she disappears hopefully we will be able to grab a couple of the other climbers as a compass' were in the perfect position here really the climbers walking straight past us and our director eagle-eyed as ever spotted Yan you're gone Bret she's got some replays now from earlier on in that final one by a very dominant Yan yagam Bret just spoken to she said use the crowd to her advantage knew what she needed to do as our wall here so we've had the women's final if you are just tuning in blessing the finals here we are doing we've had the women's final and the men's final still to come once again got our second very special guest of the day Shauna hey walk it's a commentary thank you very much how did you enjoy the final overall when you reflect on it yeah I mean I don't think the level is quite right for the girls and then I mean I don't know why we'd like to watch but behind the wall everyone with the film people flashing it or falling at the same point so it didn't seem to quite get going but the boldest throughout the competition up into the final up in amazing tell us about Boulder three seem like you would couldn't quite figure out how to get it started yeah knew what I wanted to do but my skin is terrible so I couldn't hold on to the volume I was just slipping the same with the last move on the second Boulder and wanted to get over and wait my foot but it's nowhere I could stay on the walls there I thought I'm not disappointed I could have done anything more than I did so yeah that second Boulder that jump to the top mm-hmm that was a skin problem you just struggling to get the most of all they slip enough I couldn't get over and wait my right foot because I was just slipping around basic we are chalked up about 20 times and then cannot move but yeah got myself a fitter than but you feel like you gave everything you had to give and and you look about no regrets no not at all I mean like yeah it's a shame the boulders didn't really put on a show and but yeah it's such a hard job I don't know how those guys do it but yeah in the semi-finals it was the hottest round by far it was a sweaty as hottes around like those lights pointing at that wall are unbelievably hot and I mean in China last weekend we were climbing in the Sun at times and it was 30 degrees and it was hotter in this arena and semifinals so I mean I was very happy to make it through to the finals that'll pretty hard on the last folder so yeah god I got two payments and mobile we can see a replay of you here on number four made relatively light work of this one yeah so I think it's a shame that you know the first folder and and the last folder kind of went really hard enough I think for some of us so it didn't really test us in as many ways maybe could have the boulders could have done but yeah that's how it go sometimes it's great to watch you just have a look at your number for the skin not a problem on this one I mean my skin was still sweaty and so bad hence why I'm about to choke up nope yeah and but I think it wasn't that difficult so that's why I could stop and choke up and not have to worry too much about the skin and wants to plan now before veil sleep yeah we've been on the road now for I mean I've been in Asia for three and a half weeks I think so yeah I'm ready to go home but I'll get head back and then are and go away with Red Bull for a little bit and a bit of a chill-out time and then he has three weeks at home to train again and at this stage of the season is it heavy training or is it a relatively light load and just maintaining yeah speak to my coach yeah I've got a week about a week off because I'm away for a little while and yeah and then sue happens okay well thank you very much for joining business so it's not another win for you but I know as long as you got no regrets it's not a bad day no definitely not thank you very much for joining was Shauna coxy just putting our head sit down Thank You Shauna we're about to see the men's final just while we wait for the men's final but you've got a video of what some of the climbers including Yan you got up to during this week and the Tokyo be pump gym right now we are in Tokyo in one of the be pump dreams one we didn't visit yesterday and we just found out that it's like the best gym in the world so is our third a year for the it's a survey in a row I try to do less yesterday because I lost all my skin on the first day because the setting is amazing they have all the new holds and well if all the strong competitors come together between the World Cups that usually makes a really good training session it's really fun here because everybody's here and we can climb the boulder scatter we just have more time we're maybe less focused and using the attempts um it's not so competitive I mean you can see what somebody can do or can't do but we don't take it as a competition we take it more as being relaxed for a change together because when we climb together mostly it's on competition and sometimes it's rare to see us won together look just for fun because we are from different countries and I really like seeing other people like solving one problem sorry to interrupt our video there we expecting the men started to get underway at 5 to 3 it's been shifted back to 10 to 3 so we've got IO alongside me io give me one pronunciation of your your surname is a Nigerian name I've been practicing but you say it better last thing that she'll cage you it doesn't sound right when I said thank you for joining us come to box another member of Team Canada what we thoughts on the woman's father before we concentrate on became aware first man out of the men's photo a lot of interesting things going on in the women's round actually the reciters did a pretty good job of reading a whole bunch of opportunities for the athletes to for the athletes to really create a show a bunch of places where we didn't know whether they were going to in some last-minute tops from Akio actually really made it an interesting interesting show so under way with the men's final rest for the wicked and Ricky I'm aware me who had to watch in the semi finals as jeong-hwan Tron tried to take his place in the final what magic just figuring out this men's 1 Europe on the mats earlier men's won an extremely technical looking slab on the volumes again we've seen this star quite a bit this weekend in Japan definitely a few sections where there were very very small holds or no holds at all a really tenuous start and once you stand up on some really tiny tiny footholds the men are going to have to figure out how they want to move across the volumes either really slowly sort of drop into this next section or go foot first just like that and see if you can coordination catch the really slow P volume and land your left foot on that low black diamond from your reading of it would you say the methods perhaps slightly easier it's really hard to tell yeah I think on this second two volumes where you're landing with no holds at all it'll be really hard to hold any swing if you do it dynamically so I think yeah that if it's possible to use the feet you can see Mikkel right now looking down at a couple of the volumes there stand and really really slowly lean in too many hands first actually the taller bonus volume I think that's going to be the way that we'll see this quarter go should point out whether either Iowa's route setter himself in Toronto and you can get pretty geeky with the route set yeah if we let you I keep you on a tight lead on the keys definitely inking out yeah it's true I I I like to spend a bunch of time talking about my new shot how small terms will change the whole boulder and here how that that kind of tiny little changes moving it for a centimeter left or right will change little results the competition is Mecca where many ways a couple it we just wait for us girls come in to see how many use the bonus hole by the way we've it's at the top of the two volumes so there's the volume at the bottom of your screen there there's a triangular one at the top of your screen and there's another one just above it as the camera pans up there we see there's a folder there's a volume touching the one below it the bonus hole is the top volume the one that they all have these top two fingers on there very close it looks like he thinks that's the method that'll work 15 seconds left I think he's going to see if he can snag the bonus this is a an attempt only gonna bonus time ilat time is up from the top but liquor was absolutely delighted to be in the final so looks as if she's just going to enjoy the experience till it gets it's quick even climbing with this man of space not only you but only I'm smiling on the map a cup Schubert's out also spoke to him earlier no pressure he was saying happy just to be here the competitions have become so hard that it's really hard to predict who will be able to make it to finals so I think all the athletes that I saw make it in we're really really excited that they were able to climb for another couple boulders and see how they do in the finals round he said it'll takes two holes we've seen a lot of air in Japan on these volumes here the black bet is useful the white bet is useless extremely slippery have a much more measured approach to the start McCarroll yeah because there's such small usable surface on that foothold he's going to try as hard as you can to get the balance that you need to step through to that next volume there oh just slips off just before you can stand on it quite a contrast and South of the women's final they have a quite a physical but seem relatively easy yeah this time rather than go to the type of movement where the women can move quickly the men are forced to slow everything really really to a high degree and be as specific as possible comeback on the back of the map just wondering if he's missed something don't think he houses that mean it's just a case of getting that move that precise movement absolutely perfect yeah the route setters have really forced the climbers to pay a lot of attention to this foot but even though it looks fairly big it's about the size of his foot stepping through from the left that left foot hold that he's standing on is probably about the size of a coin you can see balance is really easy to stand in one position but very very difficult to step through or to move it all actually from that position really frustrating for the climbers actually you can get into the position but moving off it is another matter certainly and that's a to get back to the group setting that's one of the tools that the route setters are using they know the athletes want very much to climb they want very much to move and in putting them in positions where they're forced to stay or move really really slowly instead of what their body is sort of telling them to do is one of the ways being route setters can test how well these athletes are trained and how conditioned they are to figure out and solve these problems against in the same position that left foot just trying to work out how to get the right foot through looked like he was trying to figure out if he could actually match feet switch from his left to right and then step to the next volume actually with his left but with very little usable surface on that hold I didn't work there so very likely he's going to change up the method a little bit see if you can find something else where he can hopefully get to the next volume back to that now quiet familiar position that looks a bit more promises not really on the best part of his foot the sculpt is kind of on the outside of the ball of his foot yeah he was kind of forced as he lost his balance to step really quickly this looks like it's he'll just sort of caught the end of the volume it's not another look go sir just kind of slapped the foot down and it seemed like you just missed the best part that's right quick without any time to adjust you had to just step through your trials so our next tomorrow in our sake if chair is it expecting this Japanese craft really interested to see how he'll get on he finish 2016 pretty much dominating winning everything he was allowed to enter it seen for the last half of the season quite been at that level again this year it still handed no one for doing a lot of really fast dynamic and coordination moves looks like the setters are changing the pace up a little bit here too and that will be an interesting one to see how the athletes can switch from actually what they're used to it and again what they're good at doing I try to get this switch really really quickly you know Chris Danielson our head routes after here really well you said he's a guy that likes to change the style as a competition evolved for sure from one room to the next it's really interesting to watch as the route setters have set up this competition to change and ask maybe different questions to the to the competitors in the men's round a lot of the boulders were really based on power the ability to move quickly but now you can see that that's not going to be the way that we can solve these problems here you can say to Mary wants to jump that's it trying anything you can to avoid the slow way that I think is going to be the the method that the roof setters were looking for just to confirm the record Schubert it didn't go the bonus become my whim did though fifth attempt to get the bonus no top for anyone just yet so I don't stable to do that really fast blitz which it wasn't too far off it seems like he even wants his feet to move quickly it just seems to be is a natural style doesn't it just yeah that's Reyes once that each move to be quick accurate a lot of the training I think for the for the men this year and then maybe even last season was about that is about can you move really quickly and is it possible to to coordinate a lot of different movements at its time so perfect able to move across to the zone the bonus thought there and we see this quite often in support or it's a bit of a shock run a move that's looked really desperate something looks really easy they just find the body position and that's really how it is that the route setters have made it really hard to find some of these body positions but the athletes are so good that once they found it once you'll see it become almost no problem to do it again tomorrow it'll be a bonus for him keep an eye on the number of attempts put your question from Twitter got a question for IO hashtag ifs CWC naked shower wants to know the prediction from the booth iyanya gone bruh Irasema suresh e once she starts competing I'm not going there yeah it's too hard to see into the future on now and for me too who knows who knows what what was gonna happen who knows who knows how much better young you can get who knows how a scene will cousine you can do so yet competition let's just see that's right certainly a matter of let's not of course forget Shauna Cox's certainly magic we're looking forward to see and are we about to see first top to mower really balancing position it looks like the last hold is actually pretty good so I think once once all gets into that position again if he can find the balance to actually just jump and pretty sure he can stick the last tool and take the as we mentioned he's made about lower move look very easy all the sudden now he's got to launch the top and he can't see timeout it wasn't on that top hold long thick long enough he could be given that definitely so took that on his seventh attempt burning through the attempt Samoa just waking up having a lazy Sunday in Europe tuning in this is the men's fireman already had the women's final there's a split here in Tokyo the Japanese TV they wanted the finals to be split your Matsu [Music] three Japanese climbers today's men's final looks like he super comfortable in that position down the way very quickly this has got to control the momentum a little bit on that swing over and actually on the dual textured start hold took his right hand to the underside one of the only textured sides of that volume and helped slow him down a little bit as he stepped across for that second volume so he'll rest for a little bit make sure that he's got enough energy to do the move and get right back on relatively sympathetic start from the root surface because at least the fold is not super physical yeah it looks like the route setters have probably saved that for one of the later boulders they're gonna try to test the climbers in a few different ways and this one really isn't about how strong are you how how much can you pull but about balance because there are no holds on the volumes and the choice that that allows or at least it looks like it allows you Joyce to sort of stand or hold on to the volumes at any point finding balance is going to be really really tricky you have to really know yourself and how your movements work from the predictions that you make from the ground and then how that translates into the actual climbing once you're into the boulder so since I pull stuck on the view you're thinking that Tuesday's units is not a climber you know you're aware of the reason for that we haven't seen him in action since Munich last year made the semi final back in action here in Japan and how in the final qualified third climbers coming out in reverse order you are first in the semi final eClass up the climb last in the final 20 semi-finalists that was narrowed down this morning to the six finalists we have now still to come in this men's competition Alexi rubs off and Cator attabi I've been told it's a Issa apologies catered with table a the question on Twitter from Richard Innes come two climbers see the current scores while in isolation yes actually the rules and the format allow the climbers to look at the same score sheets that we can see that are posted up in this stadium so they can see the scores actually it's not against the rules mostly athletes for most the competition though because they've only got four minutes will avoid looking directly at them it's a waste of time maybe a bit of a distraction for most of them to look away and add the pressure of looking directly at the scores yeah I can't help thinking it's not actually that helpful yeah that's right they'll happen the odd occasion where you worried about ten exactly usually they'll get a sense of how the other athletes are going the crowd will give clues about that so they don't necessarily need to look directly at me at the scores but in some cases they were you'll podium spot might be challenged they will actually take a peek and look to see how many attempts they have left to move up or down in the rows so how's a Lexi rubs off really good doing the semies and incredibly good on the slabs usually yeah I mentioned it during the semi-finals I ran into him and Alex Cazenove on the Metro this morning coming into the venue and Alexei super intense of a competition day but seems slightly more relaxed than normal and that seems to have paid off for sure a lot of the athletes really like to do that they are relaxed for the most of the day and everything surrounding the competition but once it's time to do the work they switch gears quite a bit talking much less playing around for sure a lot less than thinking directly about moving into the kind of state of mind and focus that they have to be in to perform their best purpose never seems to be an issue for Alexei to really intense competitor and he's actually electing not even to stand on the little volume he's just stepping through to the steeper volume that is up above [Music] yeah interesting it hard to believe that that would be easier than using the slightly lower angled one maybe he looks like he's reading the move to be a bit more dynamic rather than thinking he's got to step through slowly he stepped quickly but yeah you can see there he expects to be able to stop with his feet and actually not really use his hands at all to stop himself between those two groups of volumes but having tried it a couple of times now you can see looks at the holder again and very likely he's going to change his method there [Music] I don't we go here two minutes left on the clock in she is right so you can see exactly tried this time rather than to step all the way across two stops for a second in between the two sections standing on one foot and then a little foot slip it looks like that's why he's brush the volumes and he'll probably try that again yeah each attempts in a way becoming less dynamic sounds like an insult but it's not he's slowing it down every time yeah that's right he realizes the initial read was probably not going to work and so he's got to try a new man there it is there it is somewhat like we saw it tomorrow when you get the sweet spot almost looks easy exactly as though lieutenant a thousand times the problem is he's now faced with another move where he's got to find the sweep splats right another another tool the route setting is that once you get the bonus the the problem and the boulders tension is going to ramp up again and the route setters are going to test you again one thing that they've done on this boulder is that the first half requires a lot of really slow slow movement and then where you expect to have to continue the same way the athlete wants to continue in the same way one powerful move at the end and really change a quick change of pace that again tests how well you've read the boulder but if you're a really really well-rounded climber you're able to switch gears and notice okay now I've got to move a little bit differently change up with style a little bit before we could get to the top whether or not he can see the scores back to the agents or Alexei was aware of what happened with two MOA you don't get a cheer like that exactly or anything on the top that's right as he needs this if he wants to keep up with the early pace I was not one World Cup this year dominant finish to last year when legacy will trail him after one bowler time up for him one last look before he heads back into final into the isolation just needs to get his mind back on the game now and not dwell on that that's right one of the hardest things to do moving through around is to is to put it in a box there's a lot of farmers refer to it to forget about what happened think about it maybe just enough to say okay it's over and then to begin again start as fresh as possible on the work of the new boarder so kata watabe one last week in managing interestingly a circuit climbing editor an IFSP photographer eddie foul said his his money is on cater to back it up with another win this week yeah if you've been watching the Japanese national competitions Kate has been around actually for a couple of years now and is an incredibly incredibly good climber really really very Styles he can move super dynamically and really quickly but also is incredibly good at the the slabs the slower moving climbs and all-around really powerful I would be surprised at all if he takes it now I thought after yesterday's performance in the qualifiers that jeong-hwan Chung it's very much on for the win here but disappointing semi-final okay so how's the door open is it another good week yeah the route setters are doing a really really good job in this in the season and the last to change up the style and surprise the climbers it's harder getting harder and harder for us to predict who's going to win but also harder for the climbers to predict what kind of movement training things like that what do they have to tweak and change throughout the year to continually be able to make it into semi-finals and and then again finals into early harvest time their elapsed he's almost ease I've been too close to giving this move done just yet with Sonya Cup Schubert just not quite finding that sweet spot that this time hater finds it [Music] inching his way up DJ playing as an industrial house which probably isn't quite what he wants with tenuous movement he looks in position to go for the top really good on really good tension through those through those holes it looks like again Yaya he thinks that you've got to go really slowly I think the solution will be once you get yourself fixed really low on that volume rather than to walk your hands all the way up to actually just jump back you can go from a bit lower down exactly yeah hopefully we'll get another replay of Samoa how he did it I mean he climbed third so I was expecting to see a couple more tops of the boulder for sure one minute left to see another it's definitely enough time you just have to see if he could figure it out he can feel confident enough from the bottom of that volume to know that you can jump back and make it to the top hold [Music] so making sure that he do this bottom move fall costs a lot of time does because it takes a long time to get your feet set here it's got that move pretty sorted now first tricky move done believe we've got a replay of tomorrow coming up after this as soon as the feet shifted didn't look too promising so only one top on that bulb and it is Samoan era sake here's a look at it so he went high with the left foot steadied himself once twice when so as you say Wilson inching his way up exactly you kept one foot really low where the volume is farthest from the wall actually probably the easiest place to stand on it moved his hands up just enough to create some momentum with his right foot and then just jump to the finish there no work cut win for tomorrow yet this year after hits Rodney 2016 mid he's made a good start to the final here in his home country won top the only man's top that first Boulder I think with his fast style he'll like this Boulder right down the Kyle so these the method actually really quickly yeah it's a double jump and then this is the move that would try to figure out whether they'll do it slowly quickly what's your reading of it so the Halsey is going to right now the two red holds are really really small down turned crimps the climbers will be able to take them kind of you can see with this hand upside down maybe a thumb underneath that hole he's taking all four fingers and find the position where you can let go of the right hand and bring it up probably a few ways to do that you can see one hand is easy to get into the undercling but getting that second hand is going to force the climbers into a really really small box between the big footholds underneath I'm giving the small crimps last one looks like a bit of a jump into a sloping dish but we'll see that when he gets to okay crowd reacting to that Macomb are when he's on the wall for over a minute there and it's a straight-up bold and there's no left and right but it as you were describing it was perfect timing really see them just trying to figure out exactly how to use those other things yeah where can you put your foot and I think you can see he was focusing on the two the two horns that are sticking out that you catch after the first volume but you might do well to look at the foot underneath actually the hole they use first just below you can see a little bit of chalk on it there just below the two horns maybe that is the kind of place you can get a little easier position to get that right foot so you can bring your hands into that second crimp we'll see if he sees it this time just through the two minutes so just trying to figure out if you miss something although you can't feel the holes easy to figure it out on the map than using your energy in an uncomfortable position on the wall for sure also you see that he attentionally places his chalk bag really far back so that before each try he's forced to change perspective a little bit that's actually one a psychological trick that the French coaches I know for sure use quite a bit to be able to see different things one of the easiest ways is actually just shift where your body is and where you're looking from the boulder at so again searching for the position looks like he's it's a more comfortable position it would seem that he was in earlier yeah look it looks like he may be I thought I could go from the low position maybe get lucky with that last hole but as we looked at that slope earlier it doesn't look like luck is the thing that's going to get you into that position just enough to touch it but that's a the outside of that scooping is a dual texture cold again so they'll have to really be precise as you get that hold you won't just be able to reach up and pinch the lip of it back up again he's going for 28 seconds really trying to turn his hip so he can put a lot of weight on to this left foot [Music] incredibly powerful position in a way to get it really is he's pushing with his foot and also pulling with his hand so that the tension between those two limbs will let him move his right foot up I have to say for the toddler climbing like Michaela he looks like he's given that everything big grin definitely enjoyed himself and I think retal the climber like Liam this moves going to be quite a bit hard he got a lot more limb to fit underneath here for sure that's one thing that you'll hear a lot of climbers ask about is is it easier for taller climbers and the good root centers most of the route setters that we'll have here understand that for sure some of the movement is going to be easier if you're a little taller so they'll balance that by creating positions where a shorter climb will be more comfortable than a taller climber just so that each or Channel faced with the same kind of challenge could Schubert second man to attempt men's to jakub's really really good at these coordination jumps I think he won't have too much of a problem with this first move famous last words there it is yeah of course this one actually is interesting as as I stood under it we looks like the hole you just jumped straight out to the three holes but what actually has to happen is that you can just see there that the last cone sticks out from the wall a little less than a second so as you hit the second cone you're actually pulling your body back towards the wall to get the good part of the the second cone the far cone that's the bonus hold there so it's a bit more complex even than just paddling through the first second and third hole your absolute change in positions yeah that it there okay see this I'm just brought the right hand across to study himself back in position he's going to place his foot in a position that he thinks he can roll onto it trying to get the sole of the foot onto the volume yeah exactly the curve of the the foot there is going to kind of try to let you sit right on his heel and that's usually going to be the position that will let you move relatively comfortably always found it even better position putting both heels on in a home squeezing between his feet looks very tenuous but it looks very successful as right doesn't it just a split second it looked like he might have found a secret method he looked like for sure that he thought he could stand all the way up actually in that position but with both feet together from the heels like that it'll be really hard to actually pressure press down to get up I think if he does it again he'll move from that position hot probably try to get his right foot back on to the right code extraordinary amount of power required through the through the glutes and the hamstrings to grip like that yeah the intuition for a lot of the climbers is when they feel like they're not strong to work only on things through the core and upper body but the test is for sure becoming more full body and the the root centers know that okay if we're going to see how well the athletes are working you'll have to test them on all all parts and all strengths through the body so yeah a lot of the athletes have shifted their training in the last few years to anticipate more movement coordination and power through the lower chain [Applause] so different method again this time just the left foot rolling left foot on he knows already that getting both feet on will let him get his hand up but it might not allow him to stand up to the top of the volume [Music] [Applause] [Applause] it's very promising good hand on the top it any more than that super close to that really really uncomfortable looking upturned hand you can kind of see there is elbow just sitting above his head and actually almost took that hold it's fairly unsympathetic for the root surface because it's not a great old he's going for whether that's the way they intended it or that felt like the way that he was going to be able to solve it yeah it looked like he really really torched his arm out there I think tomorrow will really enjoy this Boulder a jump at the start and then the upper half he's a bit smaller more compact we're kind of leaving himself upwards will be just just fine for him yeah not spending any time to find any subtlety in the first half almost jump too far yeah really powerful again in the legs he's able be comfortable enough in that position to hop around and now you can see his foot they're playing with the lower hold a little bit and the first person exactly to use that right foot to move this foot up so that looks like such a good stop tomorrow does it almost statically flash that's a flash great starts at his final for him and another really interesting thing about this borders that in that really those really uncomfortable positions the the best climbers will be able to think actually to realize that there is a hold lower they can put their foot on or or move to to change their position so that we see the only man with the top so far in this final and he's got two of them to row and our exactly leading the way this is what we were used to seeing at the end of 2016 I saw him just after the semi final and he looked actually disappointed about his position very qualified so I'm sure he is focused a lot of his energy on on making it up in the finals so sorry let's jump second time tomorrow perhaps unsurprisingly absolutely dial the jump first hand against a second to see another battle of this unbuckling be pinky move [Music] [Applause] and again the second athlete you got there the idea to bring that right foot into the into the lowest put more interesting the went Oh tomorrow laptop hold it it was like it went into a vise she locked it that's right that was so steady when he got there the length of that left hand hold will let you turn turn your wrist and was really uncomfortable from from below the hole actually helps to hold and squeeze to create some tension between the two to keep the top hole because you don't have as I said before any texture on the bottom side you can see the shine off the top of that volume it's going to be really really hard to control momentum without using that low left crimp [Music] this time no joy and the jumps done the jump once and career tablets it's true a lot of the power being sapped from these athletes as they work through the crimps in the higher part of the boulder that what looked really easy the jump the first time is made much much much harder with each attempt so he gets it right this time and now he's back to the work of figuring out these positions at the top of the boulder she's already got the bonus comfortably no problem they're just trying to figure out what to this please familiar dressed in this bowl it's been you can see the cogs turning in the climbers heads yeah even with only a very few holes the route setters have got a really good job of creating a really complex position with a lot of opportunity for different types of balance that the athletes are have to kind of search out find the one that fits them the best and then attempt to move to the top of there just over 40 seconds left for plenty of time you can see that time he tried to take both holes from with both the under clings and push up on only one leg we had only his heel on the volley in the hold so make it really really hard to stand kind of see in the replay there's toes it's not on the hold is pushing there from the heel so no joyful day so the later drops of out again climbing you might feel will enjoy this Boulder yes somehow I get the sense it's true that those positions the uncut that we've seen look really uncomfortable he'll be able to handle Alexi such a battler but fancy as he gets up there and it's a case of figuring it out yeah probably say that until he gets it done really it's rare that you see him in an uncomfortable position and just because of that he'll let go definitely wants to work through all of the issues and problems on the boulder and use every attempt to its absolute fullest interesting you don't got the jump there in to attempt yeah look as if his body's taking left posture the left hand hold you can see that the position of the top and probably the climbers know that most of the trick the difficulty will be in a top part this forces them actually a little bit of a trick to to make them focus on later parts of the boulder really the then figuring out the top is useless if you haven't focused enough on water and a bit like tomorrow once the right hand latched didn't feel it was going to let go he was able to to drop his right knee and bring his foot up to get that second crimp and then just stand up so his attempts came differently in the bottom of the border than at the top so he got that third attempt so once he nailed the jumping nailed the rest of it takes top heads back in with an extra two and a half minutes of rest Keita watabe will be out next currently City and fifth it gets this first or second go who move up to second already to know in our sake taking control in this final see those profile being broadcasts on the wall here in hachioji Tokyo [Music] so up first the jump you're a left right left that's right left just misses it looked like you missed the right first and then the left followed really hard to control that second movement if your first hand doesn't hit and I'm in the right spot but in this kind of coordination move you almost have to let your body do its own thing move it into autopilot look at the last hold you're going to rather than the Holts that you have to hit first and second there it is now he's a fox of the upper section now he's got a chance to figure out these top moves relaxing rubs off tomorrow neuro sake already done this bold soon you can be done please switch to a toll on his left foot this hips are a little bit higher looks like to create some room he knows really quickly that he's got to do that and again who this top it wasn't the first go like tomorrow but one really soft out how to move on that open section a really good understanding of of what it was going to take to get into the position that will take the top of them volume have another lucky from there okay no trouble whatsoever so Kate just about staying on to moas heels super comfortable yes super comfortable move to the top you see there tomorrow now sake stop both boulders cater and Alexei keeping the pressure on slightly with top each but tomorrow certainly in control at this stage so make out my whammies out and three more of these black-and-white dual texture volumes just bowled ahead quite a complicated Boulder in a way it's not that many holes but it seems like there's a lot of ways of doing it yeah few different body positions it looks like he's figured out a way to do that it's much different than the previous what he elected to do there was to jump to the hold and press down with his hand now he's got his switches hand up palm that backwards before he can move back up [Music] grimacing as he goes and that all of the lowness is incredibly small a really really tiny crimp so getting into that body position is going to be really really super hard kind of move that you really don't want to do more than once you don't want to have to that's what really stopped smiling since she came on the stage Mickey on my web and that's one of the things that more and more you have to do in there in around is if you're not positive you figure out staying happy then you're going to start to feel all the crimps and all the the awkward positions [Music] take another look at it only a time left wondering if he's got the correct method so it looked like he had before was his hand on left hand on the bonus hold that you can see with the green tape sticking under it and he looked like he was trying to move his right foot up to the volume but now I can tell he's he's looked a little bit differently he knows that when you take that green he's going to kick his foot over actually to his left hand his right now just under the white section the tip of that volume is a little tiny spike [Music] so he'll match this whole switch from his left to his right hand [Music] no not this time so you still doesn't like the step through move taking his left foot to volume with the white top sound looks at a long movie three climbers told us mchao just can't quite figure out what to do with the feet up towards really interesting move that is really hard to figure out because of the information they the really good hold in your right hand makes you want to pull with your right hand but actually it looks like what you want to do is lock the right hand off staying relatively low once you have to crimp and step through to to kick your foot out to that volume the spike looking a little taxed there through that that motion is now actually done three times yeah you were saying it's not moves you want to repeat it's a third time up here and with ten seconds to go that will be it yeah he knows he you won't have time to top that Boulder [Music] one last look again Cory heads back into ISO and our next climber comes out here comes Schubert will be out next there he is face the crowd towel down he's ready to roll I know for sure Jakob has really really amazing footwork and I because of his background in roots he's he's not going to be too shy about that crimp I think he'll be okay at least at least that part of the boulder hopefully he can make his way into it currently sitting in the six I see a cop got one bonus hold on his second attempt [Music] stinkies way right roots nicely control with the right have knew exactly what he wanted to do that yeah he knew he then he had to press really hope with that rate but believed that his foots on now we see how this move looks my womb could look a long way but yeah cup does it statically very powerful way of doing it but very precise as well he's looked down he's kind of looking between two footholds hopefully you can walk his foot through and exactly working a little closer to to the solution there because he's staring at his hands cuz that left-handed grip is is about the size of three credit cards stacked on top of each other you can see there that black volume off to the left the black and white volume that the side that's available to him in that position the white side is essentially used trying to figure out where you should body should go and where your feet should go whilst holding an extremely tenuous position yeah a lot of work going on in me what looks like a pretty simple position when we said this Boulder looked quite complicated is proving that way so far keep you updated about the score Samara now suck is leading the way he's got two tops they took him eight attempts cater with Table eight it's got one top got that second go and lakes ribs have also got a top and he got that third go so let your Holy Innocents down below that McHale Marwan before Yap and Schubert who are watching now in the fifth and they say if she mat-su in sick bottom three yet to have a top mike has already attempted this Boulder still to come as our our top three [Music] once again controls it really nicely with the right hand you can see there are two footholds to the left [Music] flipping the hand Wow that's going to make it actually a little harder to get his foot out to that left side but doesn't even need it with again really really interesting footwork something I didn't even see as I was looking at the Builder he put his right foot on the underside of that volume to create there it is right there to create the kind of tension between his hand and that terrible crimp to cross back up it looks like he lost a bit of skin mass on the left hand but he knows he hasn't got too much time left so he's got to hop back right back in to try again 15 seconds is gonna mean that he's really got to move through this Boulder [Music] memucan touch let us know what you think has to go for CWC on Twitter as Jakob sirrah heads in no top for him so far today pressures getting to work to clean up her swords for the next Batman well every little helps really doesn't bad holds definitely so here's our current leader tomorrow now suck ease out in the stage home crowd behind him chalky up take his time he topsis and neither cater with hobby or a legacy rubs off to Sonu has already taken the win that's a lot of ifs and maybes at this stage but he is looking super confident in seeming to all the moves were all the way right to the top I don't think this is gonna be Lee it'd be a problem for him here he does the same thing he flips his thumb on to that hole it suddenly looks like tomorrow now exactly of the second half of 2016 and the thrust through right away yeah gets across who dances somehow still standing that run white foothold is all but useless doesn't need it because he has the top tomorrow now sake greases his lead no problem at all so this is the heel hook that lets you create enough tension to cross all the way up not even using that actually avoiding this volume and see his foot skate around on it a little bit there we have it one hand to hand top I say issue mat-su currently in six place no tops but both bonuses on both boulders so far quite an act to follow to marinara sake second flash of this final [Music] we're interested to see the contrast between Timon pretty much everyone else actually tonight hm tried actually a really interesting method to step all the way through and get us feet over to the volume that you've seen everyone else press their hands out to to kind of slow down and control that movement a little bit didn't work the first time so he knows he's just going to jump [Applause] time looks much more solid a long way to go those certificate to the bonus then potentially cross through it some thoughts of method he chooses right now just concentrate on keeping those feeds in keeping those hips close to the wall just about sticks a great fight looks like the guys must have read that he'll look Wow really high step that's going to make it really hard you have to cross into that into that pinch so your hips are really really high and you forced to control your body weight with with everything in that left hand a little bit easier from the heel hook so you can feel that left moving the right foot up with something that would help and actually a really good great place to stand but a really terrible body position it creates to move on just let you know that to getting the bonus hold there's moves to say up to fourth place in the lower half of final which as things stand is taste they make on my web and Jakob Schubert it's the Battle of the bonuses just saying McHale have three yeah coppers two are up to MOA now sake flying three tops so quite a time for at least one morgue after this will become a matter of energy though the tough physical moves all body climbing as well trying to keep yourself into the wall of this time the left the right foot goes across is not much on that volume though for the feet that's the beat to signify one minute left you just might just mines that move again so he's going to save as much energy as you can leave something like 30 seconds probably to top the boulder and decide on one last method he's going to try to apply as much pressure as possible and controls to swing nicely as you mentioned earlier you can see climbers getting moved by move sorted don't read it wow I'm surprised too trying to use that left foot I mean there's basically nothing there and you saw as soon as you begun to move which there's some time to slide sometimes if you can create enough pressure you can use even the slick side of the volumes but that one really isn't conducive to to moving at all so you can see there on the scores and Lexie in kata still chasing tomorrow and era sake but they absolutely have to top this that's not a good start relaxing slips early on low down on the boulder I comfortably go [Music] that's the shot we wanted right underneath laches the move right controls the swing nice with the right hand suddenly strange to see the Pola from another angle easy to lose your bearings he's going up left of the bonus now cameraman right underneath in there on the mouse [Music] he looks for that heel for a second put put his foot back up that was a different method again and it looks like it's going to be successful it is hope for Alexi [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] he actually moved in left hand you're gonna see right here into the worst of two sets of pinches that the Crusaders placed there [Music] [Applause] so that moves the legs from something to second place tomorrow nara sakis got three tops and legs he's got two k2 attabi who's out on the mats now can also move up to two tops getting close getting tense this men's final yeah Agarn Brett one earlier on in the women's final to the Japanese TVs requests we've split the final here in Hachioji Tokyo capacity crowd in this arena people queuing since 4 a.m. pressive dedication [Music] surprised someone was talking to me earlier today actually about how surprisingly knowledgeable the average Japanese person is about climbers and the sport even before it was accepted into the 2020 games a lot of the climbers like Akio made pretty regular appearances on on a bunch of TV shows across the country so more than maybe in other places the average Japanese person knows exactly what's going on or or at least closer to exactly what happens at the sport exists and certainly it's climbers are all over the place the great great 2016 has pretty good 2017 as well apply that to monarus a key to second places this year and also myths Emmys all together in May ring and left low in the final but it's very much back to his best to okay to retire you one last time out in Nanjing quite a few people fancied him to win again this week needs this used to have any chance [Music] like Alexi rubes I've tried to cross through but unlike a low-key look so he couldn't quite make it stick [Music] it does manage to top this kts already guaranteed himself a place on the podium chillax erupts offers already done only three climbers with the top in this men's final here this afternoon in Tokyo tomorrow announcer he's got three election whoops I've got two and this man here kg Tom he's already got one [Music] so these lower moves sitting in your calling too many problems just yet really bearing down you see his hand has made it into a perfect tight fist actually and he found the same left hand first movie but he didn't he went to the better pitch and he gets a gun with 40 seconds left it looks like he's taking a lot out of him breathing heavily as he heads back into isolation for a well-earned drink have it tomorrow naira sake leading the way all to play for he's got straightforward but not the easy job at the last goal oh you top city wins well so our podium already decided here the orders still to play for become my wham he's out he's currently in fifth but all three bonuses so far Tilton flashes on two and three first look at men's four in what is probably going to be a really powerful order it is an exceptionally powerful ball of there's a small crimp he's going for small positive crimp said earlier doesn't like crimps he's going to need to like that one I mean just about sticks atop Wow advantage of height there it would seem who's really able to get something out those pinched feet what else oh yeah really really cool he was able to get his feet into that huge long pinched feature left foot there to get to the crimp he's gonna bring this right heel up to go all the way to the top you can't really see actually he moved his hand has a tiny little foothold a little bump at the top of it so you can kind of hold on to it but the main hold the big hole that we can see is the top is the official top hold it's just got a little bolt on to help you right that's right exactly you don't actually have to use it but it'll certainly help to get that top so yeah come out next sure he knows full well what's just gone on before something Mickey on my web moves him up to fourth it was a flash as well fourth was as high as he could finish it Jakov needs this quickly current catch michaela fault but he can take fifth see very powerful ball at the end of a tough final and a tough couple of days le brutal stuff for the route scepters that's right the temps earlier in the in the round will really count against you here he tried a bit more static a position actually he wanted to drop his right knee and cross into that pinch where Mikael actually kind of jumped both hands into it it's a pretty good hold going for on one side the side that you can see you went to first it is actually pretty good the other side though is a bit shallower and the body position that he was taking it from actually the left hand hold that he crossed from you can see just underneath the big long hold there is just a sloper there is really no in cut section behind it so your palm is is open really wide as you're crossing through they're super hard move that he didn't get that time we'll see if he tries it again maybe he'll switch this method as well so use lower moves bread-and-butter really for ya Cobb it's this big move up to the huge hold on the left through problematic on the last attempt Lucky's gonna do the Attic quick see there again it worked from McAllen India looked like yak I've discovered that's the way now he likes principal in Macau my whim does the cow got it done from here and yeah Cobb gets it done relatively easily actually he didn't even use the little trip until after his second hand was on the top that last tour one last look he's super excited about that looked like there might have been a moment of doubt there about whether we've been awarded the top he wasn't on the top hold long I do I always advocate the shona coxy approach at first for sure warrant where it's been an issue in the last couple of weeks so the athletes are nervous a little bit they hop off too quickly to double-check so Timon our sake the tops this Boulder he can't be caught doesn't matter what anyone else does and he would finish today is finally four tops moving really quickly it looks like he doesn't really have a damn about what's going to happen on this border no looks like he may be underestimated that [Music] he's going to try this again and [Applause] surprisingly didn't get the coordination move into to that hold he looks as surprised as since we are actually here crowd is actually inching up a little closer to to watch the last few minutes of this Boulder and just over half his time left so we thought see tomorrow take this pretty easily certainly the way walked ups with all the confidence in the world exactly even moving really quickly for the first part but slipping a couple times now actually through that second bit [Music] he's gonna have to refocus a little bit make sure he pays attention to all the details very surprising to see this Simona hasaki not getting this move done something is happening there with his right hand is maybe hitting the spot a little lower that he wants to farther from the center of that hold and it's just slipping out each time worth bearing in mind he doesn't have to top it to when he's still in first place already but it would it would seal it regardless of what Alexi rubs off or kata Matar bear could do and having topped the other boarders he definitely doesn't want to leave one out of that loop sure he'll take the win with three boulders but yeah for sure he'd like this for me [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] this time he gets it [Applause] goes at the left hand is just just rushing there - MOA it's like it's like you can't resist doing every move quickly did those save himself a little bit of time ah tomorrow I don't if we disappointed they didn't seem to manage that so well it seemed like he got on the hole he's been missing and then just wanted to rush it with top I think I can shoot maybe say what happened there this is the left hand and then he just tells me rushing with his feet yeah tapped his foot against the wall and it started his body on a little bit of a spin that he couldn't stop in time to put his right foot back well extremely frustratingly for Timon it can now be called see it's your mat-su cannot catch him they were currently watching but clearly wrong cater and Alexis still to come and yeah looks like they'll have but four attempts each to catch up to it he doesn't win this tomorrow he will be kicking himself anyway root we'll talk more about that in just a second watch taste I trying to get this done can you become the third climber to top this men's Boulder for I've got that jump move dial just yet but he went in the rate looked like the right sequence and went left hand the both hands at the same time first appearance in the world cup of 2017 not too shabby minimum six would like to finish his day with the top dog you can do it will mean everyone in this final has a top just take the time sorry season the team position very twisting off without that last hole felt just a little bit early that was the method used by Macomb our web pinching that volume with the defeat and really made it look straightforward but now we're understanding a little bit more that a lots happening in that position got a question actually from the famous social media Joe HW Joe as I : and he wants to know if there's any mics on the wall you could hear those slaps in the alcove yeah we do that we do have some ambient mics a picking up stuff some of them pointing at the wall don't believe Japanese TV have installed any in the wall not beyond the realms of possibility now very stringy Thoreau sits up over this week but I don't think there's any mics inside the wall look at teh same fish your Matsu left hand goes up gripping that volume with both feet this time he gets it done so this is making tomorrow's failure to top the boulder look potentially even more and more costly that's ready for the other two kitten can get the boulder they can push them out of first place so the foreman it starts again and things really do get tense because third place Alexi rubs off [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] intent in his eyes I think said it before on 2 & 3 and it proved to be correct this is a boulder that Alexey can do for sure it looks confident takes one final look at it drops his chalk bag he's on what will the method be here moving left didn't didn't fancy the big double move yeah it looks like the top pinch is actually providing him a little bit more of a problem when he hit it with his left Hitler his right hand instead of leaving it where laia he kind of bumped it up to the top of the hold there's a little Ridge through the center of each of these pitches that you can that you can catch your thumb on but as you move to the undercling it looked like his hand wasn't in the right spot and he lost it so wait a bit of time just so we can get more power back and then have another go again moving his hand to the top of that pinch this time he's tried to actually put his left heel in the crimp but that didn't really work either the higher his bodyweight gets in that in that position the harder it's going to be to hold that slopey pinch up top [Music] - 15 on the clock is very sitting in third Alexei you would move up albeit temporarily to second if you can take the bonus here muta first if you can top it so that time you actually didn't move his hand all the way to the top but able to do that cross food that we saw two male earlier and he's definitely not going to let the top of this slip away from him lining up the move to the top and gets it done a leg syndrome some real pressure now on Keita watabe [Applause] Katie will be out last and he's climbing for the win couldn't have scripted this men's final much better look at Alexei good job those are the right hand then the left no problem so there you have it illiteracy takes the lead by one attempt over to marinara sake so caters got to do this in three yeah you do that and even though his foot slipped with just 40 seconds left he's he's not gonna even bother about brushing he'll he'll try to make it stick with with a bit more focus pretty sure Alexei would sell house 1 here [Music] [Applause] Wow you can see the fatigue there as his body just whips back Keita can't get it done sure he's not going to ten seconds to go to climb at some speed to go from here no I think that is a man who's giving everything it's not quite enough and the legs he rubs on adds to his second and third already this season with a win to marinara sake throughout that final looked in control in just last Boulder stopped him and the others cut up yet four climbers top that last Boulder but tomorrow is the only climb to do number one the two and three as well so close but Alexi rubs off miss out on the first Boulder but it didn't cost him nice moment there - yeah Cobham kata and the legacy realizes instant it great moment as well from k2 at a be [Music] graduating each other is there they head back to get their things so about to see the results on screen here's our arena here in Tokyo sellout today that's what we like to see one last look at the walls well yeah great wall here really a huge wall for a bold a conversation very clean so there just to confirm it three Topsy wins by one a test locus rip so that's what you call a tight finish with Tate finished three tops tomorrow an hour a second cater with Tommy takes second or third four medals for Japan what a day they've had today Mickey on my whim yeah come Schubert tasty if you're Matt to make up the rest of the men's top six and they're yummy Graham Brett we spoke to here earlier Four Tops five attempts and he fell ones in the final quite extraordinary another two medals for Japan and Kaku Noguchi Meehan and naca Akio also for tops but a few more attempts lower down Shauna coxy first time off the podium this season funny G Beth Hetrick ling of the rest of your top six pretty type finishes actually we're both both rounds we might be able to see on the big screen there there's an image of timon era sake being interviewed the podium will be coming up very shortly but in the meantime we can resume our video from be pumped Tokyo earlier this week right now we are in Tokyo in one of the be pumped gyms one we didn't visit yesterday and we just found out that it's like the best gym in the world so is our third a year for the it's a Sur day in a row I try to do less yesterday before the lost all my skin on the first day cause the setting is amazing they have all the new holes and well if all the strong competitors come together between the World Cups that usually makes a really good training session it's really fun here because everybody's here and we can climb the boulder scatter we just have more time we're maybe less focused and using the attempts um it's not so competitive I mean you can see what somebody can do or can't do but we don't take it as a competition we take it more as being relaxed for a change together because when we climb together mostly it's on competition and sometimes it's rare to see us climb together look just for fun because we are from different countries and I really like seeing other people like solving one problem together but having all different solutions and we feel more relaxed and that's fun my training regime is for sure a bit different than in Slovenia if I'm honest I actually miss my gym and my my climbing routine yeah I take that as a as a part of competition and I try to pull the best out of the training sessions here my routine in the gym for comp is pretty simple and it's a lot like my routine at home I kind of come in stretch do some band work and then I just warm up probably like 10 problems and then start getting on some harder problems at home will usually have a more rigid routine but I don't do too many comp stimulations right now just because you know I came from a confident in the groove so I just like to have fun work problems in you know tough good time to me the biggest challenge here in Asia is for short trainings because there is so much moving between the world-cup stages you don't have much time to train and when you get the chance to go to the gym it's not the like you're used to so I think that's the worst worst problem it is for me about food I think it's okay of course it's different then I'm back home but still it's you know I try to find more Western food food restaurants and yeah that this is the the biggest problem because you don't train much and you usually eat more junk food and usually so in two weeks that can can be a bit of a problem Tokyo has been awesome lately last year I was really jet-lagged as I was telling everyone every day but this time I've gotten to sightsee and it's a really fun and just really easy to get around everyone's really nice the food is really good and be pump has been really fun I mean first of all you have like the world's best climbers in here sessioning every day which is really fun and motivating and the settings really good the calm style problems are good so no complaints this is my second time here between Nanjing and the World Cup in Tokyo I try not to kill myself I try to just stay fresh for the next gump maybe build up some things that need I need to be stronger or more careful about so I use it smart as best as I can just not to not to tire myself and be ready for the next comp and try to do better on the next World Cup [Music] unfortunately my week in between the World Cups usually involves a lot of travel but luckily it's a quick light from you know China to Tokyo so this week it's been sightseeing and training all usually climb at least 2 to 3 days during the week before the competition and then I only take one rest day before the comp some people take two but one seems to work best for me if you only climb on Saturday the first calm day like people usually go train on Monday or Tuesday and have really hard sessions to stay in shape during the 3 trip I think we average maybe like two good sessions in between the comms to make sure that the skin recovers we have good rest to tonight traveling is so taxing so I was important to to calm down have a couple chill days before the competition I feel really relaxed in Tokyo because I've been here before I like people here the culture I'm really enjoying it and I hope my result will be better than the last World Cup [Music] [Music] [Music] here we have it that's how the athletes prepared this is how they performed Alexi we saw him and be pump early this week one here today absolutely nailed this top section one of the most solid top outs you're ever likely to see we have on their men's to and showing that flexibility is as important is as any other kind of physical attribute in the surrounds these days again this was on men's three the left hand and across through to the right just goes to show you keep fighting keep battling one more Valda one more move Timon looked uncatchable to boulders to rein them in we're sure it's really interesting the way that these rounds are set up so that every boulder hopefully counts emit all of the results can change really really quickly just within a few tries speakit rise up to interesting if you look at today is men's final getting down to try selecting ribs up to one it might one try the bottom four five and six we decided by attempts it just goes to show that tactical element we talked about of how you use your time it's not just a case of have as many goes as you can inform it it's true a lot of what's happening is it's not just in the climbing the climbers really have to decide about if I take one attempt on this Boulder I might have two more on the next they're doing a lot of questioning about how much energy they have left but also how much they're willing to risk on the boulder that they're at if it's possible to top the boulder and and things like if they think the other athletes are also going to be able to top these boulders questions about power balance but also confidence are really at play all the time in the in the ball during competitions are there any tricks you can employ as a route setter you have professional routes that's it to try and get climbers to use more attempts if you're trying to split climbers but root says it's all about separation about two separate the fields yeah you may have there quite a few ways to to balance the round and decide the types of movement that you want to to create intensity risk and complexity are three things that are more more widely talked about maybe if I was introduced to them my friend named tonday catio a route setter who works frequently with the IFS see and those ideas actually help the route setter to to tell the kinds of ways that we're challenging the athlete and to make sure that that we're not always giving the challenge keeping the challenge of physical one complexity and risk of those two actually are really interesting and usually provide the most interesting opportunities for the athletes to to really see not only that they're very strong but that they're smart and that they are really really good at doing some problem-solving in in these super physical situations I've just heard somewhere as we watch replays of the guard Brett's many many types I just heard some applause close by throughout my friends because me home and I can walk past and all the Japanese press applauded but going back to those three we just talked us reach one intensity do you mean my intensity so intensity is the description of of actually how physical the work is of the the boulder problem a lot of the last boulder actually is the type of movement where you've got to really squeeze the holds or you've got to pull and push really hard to move from one position into the next it's usually what we're going to describe as intensity if you're looking actually at the the wall right now you can see the the boulder with the black volumes that Boulder provided a few opportunities for risk and risk is actually an interesting interesting of the three scenarios because it asks the type of questions about commitment how much how much does a climber have to engage with the boulder or with a certain type of movement if it's standing on a really small foothold that isn't actually physically very difficult but requires confidence and a really decisive action to to be completed then the last one complexity is actually about thinking it's can you solve the problem of finding the positions that will allow you to move through this boulder and those three things actually kind of mesh together and overlap and a lot of scenarios but by turning one or the other dial the route setters can force more or less pressure in one of these or more of these areas to ultimately make the boulders all harder or to focus the type of challenge that they're creating at em to that men's Boulder number two you can see the the first moves were physically not super difficult to jump to the three volumes the volume in the two cone shape holds is a very risky move because the competitors once they're in that movement can traverse it but it's also a relatively complex because of how they have to move through these three holes in a sequence and control how their body moves across them so if you're if you were setting in this in this final or a knife or C round are you in are you really concentrating on those three things and trying to find the balance in each round between the three the route setters are are given a bit of freedom to to push each direction as they see fit but usually what I what I want to do is to create a round that tests the athletes in as varied ways as possible but also I want to set boulders that hides which of the three of these things I'm testing the best Boulder for me is one that the athlete looks at and has no idea how to solve if it's going to have to be a slow movement or a fast movement if they're going to have to focus on body position or if they're just going to have to sort of thug it out try really hard squeeze pull and jump a bit like restore amends wanna think it was on the slab exactly right initially they just couldn't solve it and it seems like each climbers that came and went once they dialed that move to the left they almost couldn't get it wrong that's right the complexity is super high on that one but the physical intensity super low so that you could be in a relatively comfortable position for quite a while and stay on and not actually use a lot of energy but choosing the right position was super super important to getting the getting progress towards the zone and then ultimately to the top it seems like a lot of our views well the really interesting searching process you've been a people and a teacher on inserting courses how much theory is involved in the creation of an entire round rather than just a boulder I mean theory is incredibly important if you ask me we kind of discussed a little bit earlier that I kind of geek out on these things Oh a little bit but for me the theory is is everything if you understand who the climbers are and in from the theoretical perspective what you want to do with them what you're asking of them then you can set a round that attempts to to set the field of play so that the athletes can solve some of those questions for you who is the strongest isn't always going to be the the the most interesting question we could just have a pull up contest or something like that and so we're given the job of creating a field of play again that that really does a lot of this testing in an interesting way but also in an obvious way that the athletes have to really really think and work through all the things that will decide in the end who won the competition and it must be really difficult because you're really playing with a constantly evolving field because the athletes are changing we've seen new athletes come through all the time their strengths and weaknesses are changing the style of boulders are changing how do you stay up-to-date with trends and and who you setting for yeah that's actually really a great question recently I've started to describe it as arms race really the athletes are trying as hard as they can to be stronger to be better at all of these movements like coordination balance then the route setters expect and the route setters on the other end are doing the exact same thing they know that the athletes are trying to always be stronger be a little bit faster think and move better through these complex scenarios and so there's an interesting interplay between what happens before the competition starts the boulders that have been set with a sort of expectation about how the climbers move in the previous knowledge we have but also the surprises that will happen during the competition the solutions that the athletes will think of that the route setters we're not able to is always a really really interesting one and actually I think for a lot of the route setters is one of the most interesting parts of about the the competition process and you talked about Chris Danielson before we were on those chief route setter here in Hachioji and it's interesting he's a note and note takers and he's a note keeper do you keep all this information in your head if you create a boulder and the climbers solve it in a way what you weren't expecting you note that or do you just have that sort of brain we use you just know you just remember that having done having done the route setting for quite a number of years now a lot of the times it is that way you can take photos a lot of the route setters keep spreadsheets actually with a lot of the information that happened in the setting process and so they can look back and use that information the surprises though almost always come out of another aspect of Route setting that's really interesting is is the changes in the setting setting a scenario to creating something that actually even we don't understand and the part of the setting process is to test the boulders and to make something that the climbers don't understand sometimes will place volumes or holds in positions that we actually don't know how the result will turn out will test them a little bit to make sure that that they're safe that they can be climbed and it seems as though the athletes will move in a certain direction but in the same way that we watch and look at the boulders before the round and sort of try to predict how the athletes or how the climbers are going to temp the boulders something about how they feel the climbers experience and how they understand their own weaknesses and strengths means that they'll always try something a little bit differently than we expected them to but also sometimes differently than they expected to it must feel like a real leap of faith but you sometimes design boulders and moves that you can't do you haven't seen done and you just think I really think they can do this even though I'm not sure how yeah one of the one of the interesting things that happens through the competition is is certainly that is that the route setters can't always climb all of the boulders in the competition so there has to be a level of empathy where you have to understand their physical strengths you have to understand the types of stress that they're under and how that affects their climbing but also how your sense of the timing and all of those variables means that they will end up climbing through the round one of the really difficult things to do as a route setter and one thing Chris actually refers to is is getting a level right is exactly that is knowing not only how strong the athletes are how good they are climbing but knowing how they will be today on that competition date it is as ever very fine balancing act one thing that is generally becoming quite predictable he stated is that lady there in the green tends to be in the middle of the podium a fairly regular basis that's Ray in the in this sort of arms race between route setters and the competitors she's got a little bit of it hitch from last couple months fascinating in science it's a route setter carried us on after we go off air and put it on Facebook we're about to see the serving of the women first as we did competition and have the podium so in the face mostly ho nanaka first for Japanese athletes who will be awarded medals today for extraordinary out of the six athletes on the podium interestingly enough own neither of the top spots in men's or women's takes by Japanese athletes they will take over all the silvers and all the bronzes [Applause] bronze medal for her that's kind of a double-edged sword of competing at home is that even though you've got the home field advantage of knowing things like the food and what the weather is like some of the added pressure makes it really hard to perform at your best at home you know the interesting aspect of this competition particularly in 2016 is that the Japanese athletes on the whole didn't seem to enjoy the pressure this is the year that we have the Olympic decision albeit the Olympic decision hadn't been signed off at that stage because it was coming and there was a huge media focus and I think seem to enjoy it this year they very much have including Aquila Gucci's you had a bad year last year in Japan no six warriors this time silver medal it's interesting a lot of the Federation's are paying attention to that kind of thing as well is how relaxed can I make my athletes before a competition and that is obviously showing in the results here top-4 boulders and qualifications for boulders in the semi-final for boulders in the finals there's only one Boulder the whole two days stopped her pretty incredible yeah we when you think of here in the Gucci four times overall champion Boulder World Cups four times runner-up so matter [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] his Yandy gum Brett so many times have already seen this in her short climbing career do you wonder how many more times we're going to see it just seemed last year as if she took lead climbing by storm and although we believe it's her main focus this year's not taking the pad job in the bouldering either that's right quite a bit of transfer happening between her success on the rope and now are in the boarders [Applause] some of the gold medal bouquet of flowers [Applause] [Music] [Music] [Music] you [Music] [Applause] you [Music] [Applause] the underground top of the rhodium ii lujo no matter where Tokido brahms just trying to listen to the venue mzd big throughout the year the next section of the ceremony final chance for photos at the presser key Noguchi ins absolutely delighted with her silver medal in des Marco Scala Harris on the right president of the IFS see [Music] here just double-checking what the protocol is as well just so medalist this time for the photos [Music] in the gambit takes another gold how much will that be worth in the final standings especially show necropsy down and forth to Shana just after the camel to stay Jenny on you Shauna Shauna said she could have done anymore [Music] and on to the men like see boobs off looking straight down the barrel the Camry make a good presenter as cater couldn't quite back it up this week got bad back to that results person food tomorrow now a sake never gives too much away but suspect if he watches the replays and today I've been part of a bit disappointed really felt we could have had it in that final Boulder and it's a fold of it suited him for sure they're feeling that now a little bit but the season continues pretty quickly so they'll have to shift back into training and then focus on the next competition it seemed last year that Timon couldn't seem to not win this time he can't seem to quite get past second third time but it will come it will come did last year it will again this year so Keita sees his medal and his flowers third for him made a cracking start to 2017 now say a start and we're all ready for events in the hard to believe is only three to go in the bouldering top it's still got a full season of lead to bring you in Speed World Cups still plenty to come but yeah four World Cups done in the bouldering only three to come they're so narrow sake just look slightly disappointed as you say I think on reflection it won't seem quite so bad but perhaps the nature of losing that first place yeah definitely felt like he had sealed it up for most of the competition so I'm sure half what he's feeling right now is is actually just shock also receive his flowers podium ceremony was rehearsed several times in the last few days I interesting would try and find out the story of that taping on the hand he's not keen on hand shaking and a little bit of ice as well actually yes a full ice pack now that is interesting fortunately um we don't share a language to mower and I but I will try and find out from one of the Japanese coaches because I think most people would have expected to top that last Boulder could explain a lot one man that did do it was a leg see rub sob had a really really strong start to 2017 he's had a great day here he is mister intense during the competition Patzer a beaming smile for him gold medal the hard work and focus for sure it paid off for him for him today I'm sure he's super excited about that [Music] really interesting weekend for him actually flashed for boulders in qualification flash three in the semi-final three tops in the in the final so there's no round where he did all the boulders it's not about how many you do it's about how many you do compared to the other guys here is the Russian national anthem [Music] and legacy rooms are a very emotional looking at Lake C room so I thank you very much for your company today fantastic having me alongside make sure it's a lot of fun be you and also might continue our chat about Route setting and to be on face book fascinated and once again I miss having their photos taken with the various dignitaries to say Alexi groups of looking very emotional on the top step it means a lot that victory it's been close a couple of times this season finally got the job done heartbeat must have gone through the roof when he sorta mo and not manage that last Boulder so we're try and find out for you we'll let you know on social media exactly what happened with to moas hand so the IFS Sebald athletes have finished their tour of Asia up next is North America unveil we will see there in just over a month's time thank you for watching you

Channel: International Federation of Sport Climbing

Views: 337,483

Keywords: Sport, Climbing, 2017, IFSC, #IFSCwc, Hachioji, Tokyo, Bouldering, Japan, Finals, Replay

Id: 1UFdVCf_6os

Length: 217min 51sec (13071 seconds)

Published: Sun May 07 2017