IFSC Youth World Championships Arco 2019 || Men's Boulder final YB & J

[Music] [Music] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Music] [Music] good afternoon and welcome back to the legendary climbing field in Arco that is the scene here late afternoon temperature a lot more civilized than it has been at some sages over the last few days it's 4:30 in the afternoon we're about to get underway with our third event and second final of the day male youth be bolder that's how they'll line up these climbers all climbed this morning in the semi-final which was our first broadcast of the day and we're up against a very tough set of boulders these are the six climbers who made it through to the final and as I doff my cap to the route setters these are the six climbers who secured the top in the semi final the root says to tell us they've tone things down slightly for this one though Charlie Rosco I'm Mike Langley here we'll be talking you through the action as we will be for the male juniors afterwards as well and this is how they line up Adam Adam all ski Oscar Bertrand Edwards Grose's Nicola Thomas Thorburn Perry bloom and Hunter sekiguchi and there are the six climbers as we've seen quite a lot in this youthful chairmanship nice spread of nationalities six different nationalities Czech Canada Latvian Thai German and Japanese and Mike we've just been up on the mats interest it said of boulders I don't think there's anything too tricky its body positions a lot of power required and the female youth be finally saw just before this one a couple of hours ago there was all sorts of weird tricks and stunts out there for the climbers some bigwig chimneys bit of inverted toe hook starts there was coordination running jump this one looks like a bit more of a conventional power fest for these youth b-boys as you can see the observation now they head down to the far right there's a few sort of half boulders collection of holds left on the wall that's because they've got a 15 minute quicker rotation between this and the next finals to come out of this you've be final and yeah a powerful tour slightly or could start on this one I think this is men's number four double check down the far right-hand side of all the good thing about this wall here is on occasions this wall has had eight boulders on it and only four boulders in each of these finals tonight so the roots that has been blessed with a bit more space so they kind of run things out a little bit but a few more bigger volumes on and some slightly more interesting shapes this one starts in a really awkward low groove position before a nice little jewel texture jug right in the corner little green jug there and a bit of a pop-out right to the blue with the wouldn't top fun catch and a bit more funky to finish that's the top of that final Boulder the collection of volumes here all wedged up against one another there's a bit of an edge on the left and an overlapping edge on the right between the yellow and the blue volume you can see all the way down the boulder into the start and yeah we've seen some thrills and spills this last couple of rounds already today but not very many tops the only three climbers in the semi-final of these this group of freemen intersect Gucci for Ben Perry and Nikhil Thomas just three climbers to get two tops and that semi final round out of those four boulders those three you would have thought of the favorites going into this one but advances came out really late in the semi final round doing so well in the qualifiers Oscar bode runs you sort of almost the showman of the pack here is he was the one leading the field out to observe the borders and he seems to be the real kind of character of the group and Adam Adam Oskie from Czech Republic he's also in there in that group of six they can see Oscar board run just to having a chat to a psychic you Chi quite unusual for the more established climbing nations to have nobody of their own nationality so a conversation about how to do the boulders a bit a little more tricky for quite a few of the climbers that then they'll often find it yeah I think luckily sort of climbing hand-waving all goes hand in hand you know people can people can figure out exactly you know what my in the positions quite well away you go climbing around the world you can always gem understand what somebody else is talking about you know where the crux of the route is where you get the awkward knee drop or whatever it is even if you don't speak the same language they the universal language of making crimp gestures and chucking a heel look in the air and waving your arms around there is kind of that Universal climbing sign language isn't you always feel at home when you go to a climbing crack because you've always got the International sign language like you say have just thrown your arms around and you know gesturing climbing different climbing movements so that is how they come out as I say be Adam Adam or ski first Oscar Bertrand Edwards Rosita Sat Nicola Toma Thornberry blowin and yon to Sekiguchi six different nationalities and good to see you Latvia and Thailand represents as well we don't see them at the business end of our FSC competitions too often nice to see them up there today use your format for a World Cup or World Championship final for boulders to get four minutes each to attempt to each one just let you know sadly we do not have a feed to the clock hopefully we will we will get one in the next couple of days but we don't have one right now just waiting for the okay to starts as the MC crowd currently just mostly made up of athletes coaches a huge contingent of athletes here for the CF World Championships in between the around the town here and the famous old town of Arco is just maybe 100 meters or so from the venue and as always a who's who walking through the town and hanging out in the gelato shops I'll have to come to our one time when there isn't a competition on to me it's where the world's greatest climbers live but I have to remember that they only live here that week I'm here but it is been a very sociable atmosphere just definitely go Sophie would disagree with you and I believe you'll be taking part in they're part of the Arco competition albeit not the youth sadly for Stefano a cleanup probably and later in the week and I'm a LeMat ski is gonna be up first thing so this is the male youth be final first Boulder climbers born in 2004 and 2005 Adam Adam all ski got a good name being a Czech climber trying to follow the legend that is Adam Andra from the Czech Republic he's going to be coming here to Arco later on this week into this section of fiberglass volumes then smashes up straight away over the right hand super-powerful start in a steepest section of this Arco temporary structure the classic Arco bholaram wall where those Rock master competitions of years past is off to the right just behind out of muskie there you can see the legendary lead halls the big arch to lead was leaning into each other and speed wall up the middle see that hard first move that's better into the undercut fierce position six climbers the standard six climbers through to this final just four minutes each you can see just the clock just to the left about a minute two minutes 38 remaining it seems to be measuring his time quite well super-powerful Boulder not that valuable in having loads of quick attempts say the route setting team in this bouldering I've not been holding back at all here on difficulty in style super hard semifinals earlier really testing the full skill set of these young athletes aurilla bertone just took away the youth B championship just a few hours ago and she tops an incredible looking coordination Boulder if you didn't see it check out the streams later on if you get a chance so many good root set as a pup as part of the team here for this youth worth set up two chiefs on the bouldering side Martin Shrek and Jackie got off both heading up a team each split the work between them 1996 boulders I've had to set between the teams croteau amount of logistics goes into this championships to share whole share volumes [Music] atoms are struggling on this initial move finding it hard to get established on the second move 48 seconds left you can see they're now really powering out for that first heel hook move see how powerful that first position is man this is secure that right hand but this movie entity under it looks super fierce just trying to chop into it that time to do something to bring that here look out and try and get the left foot working for you nothing there for a dumansky [Music] brutal start it was a brutal semi-final as well wasn't it so Oscar bodhran of Canada climbing now looks eager it's not Adam Adam obsolete is Oscar Bertrand no still not Adam Adam on ski definitely Oscar bodhran has a look at first look at the boulder so is that a quick look but the first the start moves do not look any easier for having a second climber on them you can see plenty of time left for Oscar but those moves about as brutal as they get let's have a another go as soon as he releases the right hand the right foot releases swings down and it's a momentum that's carrying him off the wall so Paul's background for another go the keys that's it keeping the right heel in place got a match this no here we go this is good stuff ammo oscar bertrand swaps the heel hooks to a left see squeezing the life out of those volumes pops up with the left hand it's not long to recover from an effort quite as brutal as that I know where I know it wasn't on the bold of that long but still squeezing like that when you're squeezing with your legs and then pinching those volumes it's very very tiring too it's a lot of energy out you get down suddenly realise how hard you're breathing Oscar's gonna try and time this quite well only pull on at the last second I think he's going to run out of time here Oscar Bertrand he's not been too far off there that zone just couldn't quite get established on the volumes below it despite the imploring of the MCS I think that might be Oscar Bodrum done as I see to be one of those boulders where you even have enough power in your day and there's no sort of special trick or technique or some coordination move that's gonna get you through that set of volumes unfortunately it's just testing pure power in strength a little bit of flexibility it bars good deeds this not Adam key yeah Adam else keys make you a lot of appearances on our graphics he's can assure he's only coming on the wall once so Edwards internet under coat you can see that massive flex on the left forearm a bicep with efforts well established here just to come up short I think power conservation is gonna be absolutely key here and the thing these young climbers do tend to do is hold lots of quick attempts so hopefully he's smart enough just to take a little look back and just try and conserve the powers said it's it's not not a fancy Boulder this one in this lower half you've just got to absolutely go for it through this lower section so just try and conserve as much power as possible [Music] there's a left hill this time to drop into the undercut looks like it's gonna keep the left he'll see first climber really to have a proper Gert rolling over to that next sloping pinch see the clock in the background there 2 minutes 15 this Fed father nobody secured the zone on this Boulder yet see a strain going through that right leg as he smashes down that first move just trying to wrap that right hand Valen just a little bit higher just trying to take the force on the wrist rather than using the strength of the hand just try to bump that hand up really high on that first move it's good tactics here from Edwards just taking his time taking a moment he knows it's not an overly complicated movie just needs to keep the fuel tank as high as possible for every single guy such a big first move so bad that pair of pinches is together really hard boulders here once again strain for another go running out of time here's might be one whose final attempts only once many to roll over that angle change into somewhere near the zone hold therefore enter vod's Guzzi theas new zones no top so far first three climbers difficult omits of Thailand next climate out yes another climber comes out and struggles with the powerful start to this Boulder it's it's no pushover that's for sure we saw very hard boulders in the semi-final for this category youth B as Mike said it's the youngest climbers taking part here in Arco this is looking good ease up to the zone could be on for a top here it's not done but it's certainly easier in the upper half we're led to believe them it was in the lower half you can see not much route reading to do just got to get the left foot out there on some time it'll hold leave yourself up and then go for the top here he goes always looked a little bit caught in to mines still secure the zone though third attempt he got the zone the hard thing is it no less powerful to now do it again and try and get back up there apologies if we can hear the flapping by the way the mic and ice my tent our gazebo which is seems to have had about as much time on the microphone as we have today he's flapping away in the wind wind picked up here in Arco yeah I suddenly looks tired I think you'll have to call that a date and you will know he'll catch up I do take that back oh sorry we haven't got the clock on the screen I thought you had a little less time that's got 125 nose as well he might carry on so he's back up to the zone got time I'd be amazed he has time for another go right foots in place gets that tiny crimps got a garlic I think with a little more conviction this time oh oh heartbreaking finish it's going to keep going yeah struggling to get back up that zone we've kind of talked about it it's it's so physical so depressive it looks so powerful when they've semi final round nickel Robin Perry blowing then from Germany up next but an ultimate climber out we've seen that tricky powerful first section unknown nickel thomas did it three times fell off the top moved twice tonight wheels been off that heel hook to start their form and Perry so fast it was amazing to cross through there I was pretty sure he wasn't gonna do that moving so quickly through that zone hold Robin Perry now what can he make of this top section moving around really fast around the different angles different options has he seen the little cream before any face he does but it's going really high up on the right just needs to stay nice and calm here he was heading up to the right just need to have a little moment just relax now just think about what to do on that top section it's obviously super hard up there just hit the panic button a little bit from that top section he looks really tall in that space provided by the roots heads between this first four sloping other holds at great grip strength they power through that lower section rolling over to the zone and when he caught that zone hold his both feet cut off somehow managed to really in and get the match laughter time remaining I have faith Mike I think we'll see a top of this bolder yeah hopefully you know he's taking a decent rest there but he's had a look at that top section again just reassess his what he needs to deal in that last move right heel hook wasn't placed quite in the right spot there do you see that time and time again when climbers get a sniff atop might be on the card they just forget the small micro beaters at the bottom of the border so much power used on his first effort it's gonna come down to the placement at the right heel now this time with time running out can you get anywhere near to repeating his feet it just tells it like I'm sitting that time out I'm done really good effort got the zone importantly unfortunately he couldn't get back to where he was on that Polar's big disappointment you enter sekiguchi the last climber out having qualified in first provision from the semi-finals what can he come up with top would be nice wouldn't it's always said every time I seem to have been saying it a lot recently with the hard rounds have been having but we always want to see every boulder done no problem at all up to the zone gets himself set you could be in foot not only a top but a very quick top here he goes oh look at that that's how you did the bold it right hand landed marginally before the left and have to say never really look like he was going to fall off yeah currently the way that this field is split last couple of athletes really strong absolutely smash that Boulder it was the final climber out on the first block and now we'll be moving on to Barden number two you can see it so we saw this in the women's competition getting early top put yourself in a really good position it's the dream way to start a bouldering finals really only climates get a top and get it first time the inter second go to you absolutely you smash that Boulder the form bit thorn Band Perry it was really close Nicole Thomas had the last holding both hands has slipped off but we're moving straight on to Boulder number two with Adam Anna musky he's back first look at Boulder number two then so you can get in the first Boulder number two it's be called a slab root says wish it was a slab but it's basically a vertical wall but they've placed the volumes is a yes it definitely makes it into a powerful slab climb big sharp undercut crimp for your left hand it's just been blocked to make it a little bit worse terrible undercut from catch in the middle of the wall and the zone hold out on the far left really bad slotted crimp dual texture as well so really powerful positions for the fingers here super powerful little undercut crimps again it's gonna be one of those ones first board it was pure power this one is pure finger power your tester what these young climbers can crimp except the sloping foot holes it always weights the hand so much more intelligent climbing here from Adam looks like it's gonna try and use massive amounts of flexibility to it effectively skip the heart hard rollover move at the bottom his foot is on a jewel text a little crimp there so wonder if he can just wiggle it into a better position this is looking quite positive too can he reach the zone from there I bring to his right foot down that's a really nice climbing from Adam off ski just got to keep these balance points now relax into the zone you can see just blow the choke up so really bad crimp that zone hold got a shuffle of feet to get his left foot on top of this corner of this next error head volume it was a small little chip right at the top of that as well just where his left fun is he's a rightful man that's terrible undercut it's gonna be pretty much everything you got on the left hand here just tried to pounce up it's a very slow Boulder to get free can't imagine climbers having more than a couple of really good attempts if you get all the way across to the zone just those four minutes to play with pull straight back on the way that you managed to get through this lower section just bridging up the groove rather than crimping that lower left hand made its overall slightly less powerful Boulder so you can afford okay quite a few goes here Adam if you can get through those goes quite quickly one minute buzzer sounds in the background so yes he is had to put up his leg there a classic technique when you can't quite get the leverage to bring your leg up this is where it release the right foot this last I'm just using that volume second arrow head volume just to bring the foot down just just check the clock every left shoulder it's gonna have to go now this will be his final attempt it's just going to try and do much slower stand-up eyeing the top now is small little edge just give it Ryan just came up short on it for a second there I thought you might have had that as it gonna is gonna be it for Adam out of Adam Adam off tsuki give us a really good insight there into Boulder number two feel like tops could be coming on this Boulder yeah I think if we learned anything from Boulder won it so we should stay in caged right until the end last climber comes out and flashes a boulder which should stopped in their tracks some pretty handy climbers just struggling with the foot swap Oscar bodhran no it's a exactly what he wants I can't say I blame him for brushing that foot hole he was struggling to get his feet swapped on it struggling to yes we're going to get in the start position now he's still there he goes about so it's not quite where he needs to be Mary is he's got the left foot down on the black volume ask you can be a bit a little bit frustrated here I can see why it's one thing if you if you get on a boulder and there's some technicality or some strength based move that stops you but when you're struggling to get started it's really frustrating I feel like you should probably just step away for a second think about something else just for 10 seconds and and then come back to it just burning these attempts without really having much much chance of success yeah still struggling to kind of get established so now he's at least got stood up now he's properly under way with his attempt he's making progress [Music] give plenty of encouragement as you expect to toss with bodhran but yet unable to turn it into anything productive nothing for him on the first Boulder either [Music] now he gets stood up on the first Arrowhead or suddenly began moving quickly because seconds are beeping away Andras gracias necks out so new tops on this bowl so far third climate he's out now Edvard gracias from that view I think quite confident on the feet as he rolls over for that undercut with a right hand in the middle of the wall this is a really good first effort here from Edwards just trying every weekend not to tip off to the left superb start really well-placed feet small school and it's gonna roll up gets the crimp easily he advised first attempt will it be on for a flash of the boulder here it's gonna jump straight to the top gets it done Edie pars Gazoo this flashes the bowler it looks around in slight astonishment you know all the fuss is about obviously superb on his feet just the way that he walked up those volumes just really really super me may I'll get a slight height advantage there headphones because it is quite a bit solemn certainly Oscar Boudreau and he was just before him climbed it's a well superb technique Nicole tamo now of thailand latest to try his luck we'll know I'm sure from the fact that he was in the calls Oh much less time the news expected to be that the Boulder has not only been taught but it's been flashed feel bad talking Zeke reaps his way out left can't really tell where he is there we go okay makes sense now just out to the zone creep in his way up its we're calling in the slab this but it isn't it's a wall it's just a closest thing we've got to a slab oh yeah I always looked slightly optimistic method I figured we should a little mushy there judge perhaps just clarifying something for him [Music] so pulls back on for another go won't match the achievement of Edwards grows ATIS who managed to find the flash creeping up again tips of that crimp be surprised if he goes for the fast hand swap again looked good how come wasn't what he wanted right just go for it here no that is I'm pretty sure not the way to do that move stay a lot more static than that as soon as you start moving around on a bolder like this it's pretty hard to stay there [Music] lining it up for another go you can definitely do this bolder you just need to slow things down at the top figure out how he wants to move just try and stay in balance stay nice and slow we don't have a clock on screen apologies we don't have a feed to the official clock here in Arco which is well it is what it is but it means we're kind of guessing at the time we're going just on our phones and keeping an eye on the time and you can't have had a much time left but he got the job done in the end took him a while took a few attempts just waiting for confirmation of exactly how many attempts it was got to the zone on his first go she's very good attempt at the top holds questionable match of the final hold there in the end it seemed better for him just to ignore that how to sort Edwards goes it's just it's okay in real-time it look like it's a little bit sketchy on the left-hand but it's all good in the end and another impressive show power from Nicole Thomas easily looking them the most powerful guy in this set of six climbers almost got a bit too much power for his own good is there a thing as too much power let's see on the next couple of boulders I've certainly never heard of anyone training their power down just trying to get a shot up a bit I've heard of the power shakes got so much power just can't control it just start shaking all over the place but say Nikhil Thomas something you'd probably see quite regularly sitting next to me for day after day all that horse power contained in one camping chair more like coffee shakes gelato sugar crash the Arco diet of ice cream pizza and coffee it's pretty stable stuff around here Shawn burnt Perry then didn't have a good attempt on Boldin number one struggling on the foot sequences at the bottom here it's classic sort of walking boulders on these volumes really seems to be a bit of a love-hate relationship so so many of these climbers big buildup of dust and dirt on the bottom of shoes as well can make a huge difference to get the zone on his second go in the first Boulder came really close to wrestling with top moves now gets two foot swap done but just feet moving and sliding a little bit there's grains of chalk trying to get that undercut with his left hand great flexibility there that's actually worked for him once you got moving on this slab it's gone quite easily up to the zone see how bad that crimp is just as it goes up to that put Altima edge just just slipped off the following a lot of work brushing the volumes now at any sort of grit or grains of chalk on the underside of the shoes does seem to make a huge difference on this style of Boulder you never really feel completely positive on the feet that you feel the feet just sliding and creeping a little bit really puts you off when the crimp than that bad as well it's really easy not to be too confident in the feet he's starting off the left foot on this ground then having to do the little hard foot mattress or a couple of guys just starting with the right foot putting the left foot straight up to the air ahead so we're almost adding a little bit of a move there it's going to try the same sequence did work for him this flexibility here superb what will he try this time when he try and go to the edge already go all the way to the top first secure the edge now it just needs a bounce flat top hold his feet slip again doesn't look like he's panicking just yet though still focused just beat us kidding all over the place here Foreman Perry really could do just clean the shoes dust up he's right foot on this time manages to miss out an entire move at the bottom in terms of the foot sequence good thinking here from Vaughn but just needs to move that right hand in rushing a lot now I think it's gonna be really disappointed it's two boulders now that he's been right to the top off and fallen on the last moves to the second will be next out you know the story could have been so different performant Perry already here there's competition getting away from him a little bit yeah you always feel slightly sorry for climbers when they kind of get in the zone it's just not are you going over the line in finding a top got himself started creeping out to the outs of the left I've got a very special guests about the joiners in the commentary box just one second we'll just keep an eye on ginger for now he's concluding his attempt on bolder number two hopefully successfully idents peak while he creeps out Tim well we not seen many people move dynamically on this Boulder and managed to stay on it as I said it looks like a slab but it really isn't cannot decide which way to go that's a way to do it Chuck Schwab this is brutal to watch well our guest in the commentary box has been waiting patiently and I was thinking junta would just get the top done and here we are though I managed to top it Eddie folk I foresee photographer fresh from Tokyo how are you feeling well right now I'm not feeling so fresh from Tokyo but yeah yeah no it's it's fantastic being here I mean I always loved youth worlds it's such a vibrant atmosphere was sort of a sense of joy around youth worlds especially I found this year in Tokyo there was the added level of intensity with Olympics which changed the social dynamic there it was a lot more intense even than the normal world championship yeah here at youth world that's been stripped away they're just here to do their best and have a good time and you know you're seeing some amazing climbing but they're having fun doing it which is great yeah and you said you always enjoy the youth world it's always interested to try to figure out which of these climbers is going to make the leap and earlier on we saw Ariane Berto she looks like the real deal doesn't she oh she's got huge potential I mean her composure when she climbs is here we go yeah can see there we go doll second late in the dollar short there we go that's all we wanted it's interesting there's yeah when in doubt just just mob for it there's the top there was a tiny jib on the top of that left yellow volume yeah and you saw earlier that Nicholas nickel Thomas from I'm anti they really didn't want to use it yeah and it was only when he reverted to it right at the death yeah it worked yeah got it done fourth go it's a lot of goes on a boulder quite slow that will move over to number three but yet just quickly to go back to Ariane she she as you said amazing composure we don't want to put too much pressure on us we see the scores as it's the male youth b-but for me she's been the climber I think she could she could actually step up absolutely one of the things with any competition like this you know so many of the climbers are extraordinary athletes but it's who manages to climb to their potential and the fact that she was able to do that in lead and then in Boulder a few days later is a really strong sign of intent for the future and also Mike and I have been as we watch Adam Adam off ski get started Czech Republic one or two good climbers of themselves in the senior ranks and we were talking about the difference between watching the youth in the seniors and it feels like in the youth that mental element is lacking sometimes they can't change a sequence quite as quickly they sometimes miss read things more clearly than the seniors it is a different sport to watch in a way it's yeah absolutely it's very different to watch absolutely anyone that watched semi-finals this morning for the youth b-boys you were watching them go down the rabbit hole of bad beta and there was one classic example a really strong American kid on the last boulder which probably would have seen him through two finals and would in the first few 20 seconds he tried the right beater didn't stick it and then went to some in alternate Peter let's call it for lack of a better word until he only had about 15 seconds left and then tried the right better again and it was too late yeah it's it's really it is really interested to watch it is such a contrast from what we saw in hazard you but there are one or two climbers and you think they'd probably mix it if they were to make step-up absolutely and there's also a tactical game I know just talking to some of the coaches that came out of isolation with youth be guys right now and apparently the isolation wall here is fantastic I haven't seen it but apparently it's the best they've had for a long time and they were just sitting boulders for each other they became a big group and they were having a big play which is fantastic but it may have actually been tactically bad for a few of them because didn't have that long to recover from this morning and it might have sapped a few of them interesting interesting let's just see Adam Adam of ski moving over to the left we're led to believe that the top section of this Boulder number three is not nearly as hard as what's preceded it both on boulders one and two and on the lower section of the boulder itself but it's a reasonably good hold you're going for but you've got to kind of get around that big black volume before your hands are free it also feels like we've seen a lot of Heartbreak Hotel on the boulders already a lot of slaps on the top and not bring it home well it's been really interesting to watch because for instance that's a really good little cheetah volcano there the way it's set is really positive and you could one arm swing it but sometimes just with the extra pressure and the fear you over grip it your hand starts to skate on the hold and you go on whereas in the last round you saw all sorry on the last Boulder you saw some of the boys were jumping up and just catching that top of one hand very precariously looking but sticking at it it's very hit-or-miss with these guys their contact strength is amazing but if not in the right position then what happens to Adam just happens to them yeah it's interesting you can then you can often see a lot of the youth climbers they've definitely got the horsepower but they just haven't quite learned the game and that's why it can be so enjoyable to watch him earlier on their careers and Eddie will let you get this to work and I believe there's a very special woman in your life with a very important birthday today yeah happy birthday to my mum she'll be watching this back in New Zealand where she'll be watching the live stream now I would expect so even though the wee hours of the morning it's one of the perks of retirement she can sit alone and one of the wonderful things she lives in little gated community with a bunch of other let's say people of questionable age and it was only in their late forties late forties with a few few extras added on for good luck but yeah they get together and they watch all the World Cups and not one of them has ever climbed but they all get to give them watch the World Cups and love it so that makes you so happy so happy birthday yes happy birthday Heather Heather was it wasn't last year was it year before here she came to Munich yep yes so happy birthday to Heather and everybody watching that's great I had no idea that she watch it with everybody out or so I thought it was just something she watched on her own no there's a there's a little crew of sometimes just her but sometimes up to six or eight of them will get together it's like the livestream into the big screen on fantastic settle in so all the way down in New Zealand you got a spectator crew fantastic Eddie thanks very much and us say happy birthday to Heather all right always good to get Eddie's insight you can't get much closer to the action than Eddie gets he's normally the only photographer allowed actually on the mats so he's I mean he's it's like going to the football World Cup final and being allowed to sit in the center circle so always interested to hear from Eddie Oscar bodhrán now is out on bowler three Adam Adam or ski got a good hand on the top but couldn't actually convert it into anything Oscar Bergeron then I knew this big contingent following his progress and his championships back home in Canada say hello to everybody there also so Adam Adam on skis so close to this means number three there was a small little fold you can see it just two above Oscars left hand on that starting position there's a tiny little jib on that volume that imagine if you want to control the final hold you're going to be wanting to use but low percentage chance of some of these guys hitting these howls and holding the swings it's really hard to know if they're gonna need that foothold or not Oscar Bergeron looking really good now see the shoulders just shaking under tension as he pushes out to that Gaston got to build the feet swaps it really nicely here for Oscar is much lower than Adam an Oscar at this point so I think you both try and use that little left foothold just goes for it and holds it that came out of absolutely nowhere brilliant stuff from Oscar Bergeron needed that as well couldn't get anything on the first two boulders absolutely superb top just so say he's looking around for the foot he just bounced for the top hold absolutely hold him one well that's awesome bring a bit of golf into it that was absolutely sweet from Oscar Bergeron just he looked up counts for the top power big wild swing and held it you can see the crowd really building here you've B final really up and running now right it's crazy tiss whose flash of number two was absolutely superb now gunning for something anything on number three Edvard came really well all of a sudden in this tour of borders let's see what he makes it this top move this is where we saw Oscar I draw and just fly for that top hole easily done doesn't use the foot hard on that volume at all Easley stretches to the top hold never quick top for Edwards tops coming thick and fast all of sudden this third Boulder he goes into provisional lead with two flashes you know Sakaguchi's gonna be coming out laughs he's got the opportunity to take clear lead after a top you only top him the first Boulder next flan was out already Nicole Thomas very impressive so far as well from Thailand one top two his name currently sitting in third position I see how he approaches his phone then will you run into the start we just pop into from kind of a quick step up it's bolder although not easy is looking very tappable for this team of you'd be climbers down bumps up with that right hand nice catch yeah a nice little flip at the left hand turned it into a little coordination move see what he makes it this match see it's a really bad hold they're matching on the round edge of that volume climbs you know much more conventional way this Boulder Nicole Thomas doesn't flash it just fumbled that screw on it a little bit it's not completely happy with the match top that second Boulder in four attempts they call Thomas easily into that starting position again [Music] again timings are macula on the left hand really jumps that left foot up now can he control this match just pushing across on the chilled texture element was that so inhale just to bring the left foot across it looks like he's looking for that small little screw on isn't committing to do it sort of full jump there's that awful little match the piano match he shakes again and falls not comfortable and that stop hold pressures mounting all of sudden here on nickel Thomas you feel like this Boulder is definitely have a huge deciding factor on this youth World Championships result only one Boulder to go after this ya know we're already midway through Boulder three [Music] getting plenty plenty of shouts as you had imagined MCS have done a fantastic job keep you up their energy all week Mike and I could just sit here and chat they've got to keep keep you Fugit ask them to keep the whole crowd fire it up it's a really quite amazing thing that they do left hand just shuffling around - it's a one finger crimp to get the full right hand on just searching around to all the different options here at climber of so much power that's a completely jeweled texture side of that volume so it's toast everything's gonna jump through it all of sudden that's how it's done if in doubt smash it out just get it done with the one hand the lander in the end if you doubt smash it out with the one handle under there we go in that is brute setting jargon 101 sobbing Perry blowin next off Germany before been very blow and then possibly the unluckiest climber in this round so far that's been really close to the top of both the first and second boulders unfortunately sits down in sixth position such as the nature of the scoring system of tops and zones and attempt to each of those no points are getting close to a top unfortunately Nicoll Thomas this movie to first position from Thailand at the moment definitely competitions really hotting up here oh man Perry really needs to get on the board here clearly look more than capable of finding a top in this round 14 Perry blue slightly more subtle it would initially appear this Boulder pushing out on the undercut starting hard a pretty big smash ups at the right hand into that zone small little intermediate absolutely learned that got flipped that we saw him Nicole Thomas works really well for performant parry it's really nice to watch the timing of that see how he gets on with this match he's go straight for it in a really good position does shuffle it along quite well it looks like he's just gonna go for it does just go for it whoo I did well they're relatively straight arms and a top pocket but gets his top a very well-deserved top it's so close to two tops I really think you see a sigh of relief as oh good it didn't fall off the top of that one at last so unlucky so far new - thank you - sekiguchi if japan comes out next he's already got two tops opportunity to be the only climber with three tops on this next rotation of four minutes and it'll be all in his hands on the final boarder [Music] you can hit a creep out to the right think yeah really if he could get this Boulder done what a position he being only climbers who have topped all of the first three it's a really nice move that up to design holds so much technique and control as soon as you punch up to that zone hold your left hand releases you have to flip it to an undercut see how bad that edge is very artistic camera angle there so I'm just testing everything they learn in camera school good ii go to you on this top move then just shuffle in two fingers trying to launch from philly crimping the right hand there's nothing for the less he's just gonna pounce from there the long is that the longest certainly the longest this week we've seen someone on the top hold not able to hang on to it yeah almost got full control the right hand just sliding around and that top pocket to get there quite easily so you imagine should be too much for chore for him to get back to that position turned out to be quite cool last move that most climbers ignoring the little foothold and just going for gas to the top hold [Music] and see that left Anning starts as a sort of sloping edge and slowly rotates it all the way around - it's a palm down just flips up left hand at the last second just to help the body positioning certainly helps bring the left foot up easily up to this last move this time then how can you get on with this match just loses the right hand but seems solid on the hill Shirley's got to get this done [Music] just comes up short the finish hold again Gucci if he doesn't win this competition well let's not go there but this is a massive opportunity for him it's been topped four times already this Boulder he's already put himself in the lead by the way by securing that zone so quickly but he really could put himself in the runaway favorite category if he could get it done yes he's really opening the door for the other athletes on the final Boulder if he doesn't get a top here this one would come down all the way to the last climber on the last Boulder so easily up again to this last me surely this time third time lucky he can find the top you enter second Gucci surely it's fine I'll go at this top move come on this will be it this would be his last go if you can do it he will have three tops made the Japanese team sweat but he gets her in the end they must be must have really gone through the ringer with that one yeah that was a huge moment for this youth B Championships because now it's all down to you you sick of guilty on the final Boulder he's going to go in with the only climb with three tops already only climb at the top Boulder number one there you can see it three tops you know six attempts three zones in three attempts next climber Downton nickel Thomas two tops seen with advance because etus two tops it's gonna be a really close one this one I mean straight on to the fourth and final Boulder [Music] right Adam Adam of Sookie gets underway on number four all sorts of holds and boulders and half-completed boulders all over this wall by the way because the route says have got to literally chuck up the next final in about 15 minutes after the conclusion of this one so they've kind of left a tiny bit of stuff on the wall animal Husky getting into this awkward start mins done before which point it's probably gonna be a jump out of the corner to a big fat pinch and a foot land now you can see the hold it's going to is pretty half decent sloping volume with a fun catch on it it's gonna be that with a combination of using the foot hold big yellow one there just right in the shop there four points it's two points low and left bad right foot and non-existent right hand but this left edge is really positive we were wondering if it's worth stretching the feet out first doesn't look like it quite works for animal ski there is gonna go back to the jump method no that's close for him so slightly awkward leg swing out the corner and I can definitely definitely work it was the sitting on that volume to start it's a really funny looking start this one isn't it we that count us to sit down start old school sits tight don't see those too often kind of yeah sitting like bum on the map but it'll do yeah you can see where he's trying to go yeah it looks like it's got the technique down there actually the foot kick out it just needs to give it a bit more few more beans he won't be barely much energy here and he hasn't really got anything to save his energy for so he might as well go for gas yeah this one and I got to Nick to zones on the four Boulder so far pretty tricky little hand match here cuz it's a good hole bits not great for two hands you can see he's just dropping his little finger off make space for his right hand this time can you give it a bit more struggling to get the momentum off of that really bad left lower yellow starting foot hard hard to generate the momentum off of that [Music] let's try the little leg swing method again better that time getting closer [Music] I'm all ski now he's podiums gone for him sadly we would like to finish here with the top never nice to walk away from a ball around without a tarp couldn't quite stop the momentum try again these somehow got to get across to that blue jewel texture hold you can see that the wood looking past of the hole is very low friction looks like a demand mouse keys gonna be that time here that's complete his finals he did think the brushes were maybe a little ahead of time they probably could have caught the know you're sitting on my starting hole get off it okay so sadly Adam Adam off ski for him will finish in sixth place Oscar bodhrán yeah the podium sadly already gone for him as well just due to number of attempts even if he flashes this he won't be able to catch and pass Edwards grows ATIS [Music] let's see what method he comes up with through this section just look like he's got the same method as a Lamaze key and I could little flick out the Co under there actually used his right leg quite well there's the MC he's earned his money you know just sing come on it Oscar you're not on your own out there and asking the crowd to get behind him if they're paying by the hour of make a fortune paint by the words sorry make a fortune because he's able to keep up this quite breathtaking stream of enthusiasm and and psyche and emotion he's doing a fabulous job you could do with flying him to a couple of the other events after say in between the rounds it's not as if he's just lying in the corner with a load of coughs wheats he's just he's just chatting to everybody's high five and everybody talking about climbing talking about our korat masters it's surf use yes it's brilliant here we go then Oscar just slips off the left foot a really bad left foot bangs his elbow in the corner on the way and take a bang on the elbow just to finish around you'd not be known through a row Cup level tour if you've not taken away at least one or two cuts and grazes few bruises on the shins yeah we saw a few climates in hachioji in Japan looking like we've had a traffic accident outside by the time they finished trying to jump it off straight off the right foot that looks far in that method fully straight humped on the right hand and came nowhere near it that way so wonder if Oscar will just have another look at the possibilities here he's gonna go in for the brush on that lower left foot you think that's really good thinking there from Oscar's he was getting quite close to that method before let's see what method he will try this time looks like he's just learning up again it's wild that way absolutely wild out the corner I can see the top element of that Boulder from that shot as well there's green and blue volumes all stacked together troubles certainly aren't over after this jump out the corner now goes back to the foot swap method back to the original method just tries to generate a little bit of power at the corner off that bent right leg that's backing and footing against that lower blue volume it straight in for never go burning many many attempts hit attempts really don't matter he's gonna try something slightly different with the feet this time hi every the big arc as it goes up when over tries to land back down on the foothold it's good to see him trying different methods of just 5 seconds left that's going to be it for Oscar Bergeron he put in a good effort he won't progress past 5th place unfortunately the young lad from Canada [Music] adverse Rosita's this could be massive for him flashes bolder any piles on the pressure for you into circuit Gucci and Nicole Thomas let's see what he tries out of the groove I mean his two tops have been flashes so he can move himself up into first Toby it may not hang on to it but he'd need something on this Boulder close big leg rotation as he hit that hard little hop out the corner going really well here Edwards said Charlie two flashes on Boulder two and three yeah looking pretty handy we're not too far off him being able to a book his place on the podium for sure but he'd need a top to make absolutely certain he'll be picking up a medal like it was a long time there well I mean if that's the method ends up being using that as a hell of a coordination move skip across the groove into a foot plant swap feet and then toe hook surely that's not the method is it so much coordination going on in one bowl let's see what he does this time [Music] why is this caught in between two methods a little bit there it doesn't look like he was looking for that right so her just lost concentration on the right hand a little bit [Music] [Music] just under two minutes left for him thank you really fancies a multiple foot skip method goes against a method kicking off that right foot from behind on the volume behind slightly or cross leg position gives it full gas out this time holds it without the extra right toe hook that time just holds the one-handed swing first climber to secure a zone on Boulder number four ain't done yet though certainly isn't super awkward top section looks like it's powering towards the top now it's gonna be our first stop opponent before putting the pressure on the other athletes advanced Rosita's gets it done super let's get it down he gets the lead as well yeah it looks really good on that Boulder all the way from the beginning he looks super confident straight from second border onwards head farthest from Latvia superb performance scores have just flashed up he required five attempts to get that means he's actually second I thought he'd done it in one less yeah three tops three zones in seven attempts for each of them it was casitas if he got the zone he got the top super performance but can't win the competition yeah it's interesting isn't it he didn't fall off a single Boulder after he got to the zone [Music] so nickel Tama could put himself in the lead here because if we can find the top that will be three tops four zones yes the only climber still in this one in terms of the win again looking for that little toe catch move really has got the power we're just joking only how's it got too much power it just got backs of it to spare on every single Boulder looks like he's asking for a bit of chalk on one of the holes is that sure about that I'm just trying to think of yeah roll think yeah I don't think there is a rule they have seen brushes going to talk bags before I guess so yeah just kind of adding something artificially through a hold anyway gets it done this time the right toe hook did go down didn't really use it for powers into the zone hold on his second attempt here for nickel Thomas should easily bring this home for a top just to slip again puts the pressure on now it's gonna be Indian to second gear cheese hands what a performance from that young man from Thailand Nicole Thomas superb youth be bouldering championships for him goes away with three tops and that is the name surely to remember as he heads through the different age categories fist bump to the camera guy superb effort what a dude [Music] former Perry then after his good stop on the third bolt it was he gonna try out of this corner looks like he's gonna go for the full jump close to landing it also close to knocking his teeth out on that far yellow volume goes for the big jump out of the corner slightly high risk method here usually getting the distance for it to come progressed past four please no matter what he does here Foreman Perry will be looking for a nice top to finish these World Championships in the bar during in style though lining it up oh just can't stop that swing he's hitting that foothold so hard it just looks like he's just measuring classic Metro just stride it next to the mats and see me see what it looks like it's better first time I just keep his left hand on that time scene each of the two climbs atop this border once they got to this stage they have topped the block for Perry looks like he's gonna finish it with an easy top in the end of Baden um before he is going to get it done his World Championships finishes with a top of the phone a boulder and finishes in fourth place final climber out you insert a sec acute then it's all in his hands yeah get a zone within four tries obviously a top would do it for him because he was the only climber to top Boulder number one three tops and free zones tops came in six attempts zones came in three attempts Nikhil Thomas free tops in nine attempts and four zones in seven so it's 2 4 & 7 & 3 & 3 at the moment that's what we're looking at Rita for if you get to the zone in another attempt I would obviously win the competition if he doesn't get there's only enough attempts but does get the zone II would feel I could get the top so yeah you did imagine most people have got I think everybody I'm just thinking yeah everybody's got to the zone is then taking it home for the top Nikhil Thomas did look a little bit nervous on his previous Boulder when it looked like the competition was slowly becoming his to lose hopefully you can just keep it together here in Turkey it's good to see this you've be finally coming down to the final climber on the final Boulder not quite hitting the sweet spot on the hand of the moon the thumb just missing the fun catch going for the full swing out the corner not stepping through the left foot to the left yellow little starting thought of the moment Town Singh all the way from the blue volume to the yellow leg high-risk method machine all success is using the left foot where the right foot is there's a lot riding on this because it's used up too many attempts I think now it's been burning through them yeah sure I agree be there surely I think it's four four attempts at least crowd getting revved up for the last year he goes here huge moment here in this youth World Championships you enter using pretty much the same method to jump out the corner every single time is he cracking under the pressure or as it just he's not found the right method time has got to be crucial here and sadly we can't see the clock [Music] now I was just trying to jump to the ramp engine landing the left foot hasn't looked at his jumping options at the corner at all that there you can see it one minute 22 remaining still got time each attempt taking maybe 20 seconds or so he's getting closer to holding like that will he try something different or weird to stick to the same method still struggling Japanese coaches must be wincing at every attempt he tries the same thing are we Oh sassy any hole - he doesn't this is a bit tough to watch still doesn't hold it surely as you get it going for one more go this is for the World Championship the youth World Championship on the line they just cannot find a way Nick got someone must be watching this with his heart in the mouth let alone team Japan and that will be that he wants a secular Gucci cannot find a way he can't find a way to do it what a big moment what a shock into second Gucci looked like this standout athlete all the way up to that final board and we're just saying wonder if it's the pressure looked like he was cracking too lightly after the third and then into that fourth Boulder Nikhil Tama from Thailand takes away the World Championships what a result amazing result really for that for the whole sport to see a Thai climber winning extraordinary stuff now you can see the results Nikhil Thomas takes the win he looks superb all the way through the semifinals and final rounds such a strong climber intersect Gucci gets the second place after that super never finishing Ed's father could eat this from Latvia takes away a well-deserved bronze medal all of those guys in the podium scoring three tops four and Perry Blum in fourth oh I know Wow final climb the final Bowl that's a we like a final to end not necessarily don't mind who wins but it's great when it's the last second of the the final decides the winner now we've got a bit of a break you can see the route setting team all over the wall there's going to be a bit of a break before the male juniors final but we will stay live albeit Mikan and I might just go and grab a quick drink and then we'll get back on the live stream and the podiums will then follow the junior competition so we will speak to you a very shortly live from our comb [Applause] [Music] [Music] [Music] hello welcome back to Arco lovely afternoon we got here in Italy I can I just back as you see the athletes were just presented we were actually treated ourselves to going down the front to watch i watch observation which we don't normally get to do and very interesting it was as well it was actually a bit of top pants out there actually but a bit of banter going on wyngarde and max meal my hashtag top bands have been through this oh yeah it was it was good scenes out there and these guys really getting along well the FFO rockin they're really nice as well I could see a bit of French style out there max me I was just asking for a boost up by Sami winGuard of Sweden there this is how it will go today nothing rotten out France firstly sent me a wing guard who had a really good semi-final he'll be out second then Leo Favreau Katsura Konishi so to a Mikasa and Max Mill of Great Britain will be out last in terms of the age groups here at the World Championships this is the oldest group so this is where the real heavy hitters are coming the hardest set of boulders is this one on the wall right now of this World Championships and we've seen some really hard ones today as well so hopefully the route says I got a treat in store for us to finish the first bowl is going to be this long running jump on the right hand side one two three blue triangles into sort of a palm down crossover jump easy for you to say yeah and then a fast move to begin with and then have to slow down a lot for a really technical finish Nathan Martin from France is gonna be first out then here comes the long run across the mats yeah over on the far right and you can see yeah probably not going to be done statically I would guess yeah I wonder if that's always we've run jump somebody always have a quick look at doing aesthetically but just you can tell by the way the roots has positioned volumes this one is a running jump the arrow is showing you what's ready to go oh he wasn't far off then you know yeah it's getting the distance is not gonna be the problem I think it's gonna be holding the swing once you hit it left arm palm down right hand up to that Gaston volume up in the wall there the big yellow will pick the yellow pinch volume and then holding the rotation imagine a bowl like this will starts a big separation based on the number of attempts so often on this sort of style Boulder that's whether it's really like too important because they could do get good clean separation Oh nicely done from Nathan Martin left hand down right hand up left foot out now it just needs to slow it right down a little bit to get this little roll over to finish left Bert just shaking into the funda cut and gets the match dream start for Nathan Martin via France really it's our host slightly worried he wasn't going to hang on to that top hole he habit had a little bit of a wobble I was I think he was probably having the same thought process me which is this probably doesn't look like control to the judges you could see him kind of on it for quite a long time really trying to prove the fact that he had it nice and steady some wind guard out next yes am i far away the tallest guy in this junior field can't wipe that smile off his face tonight really enjoying himself out here in the finals I was about to say it's obviously been eating his and then couldn't remember anything that says Sweden is famous for eating so about people's yes bit of cranberry sauce sauce on there as well sure about that no lingonberries lingonberry sauce I'm pretty sure that's fair I've actually been to sweet yes it's been a long day I can't remember the week its name mine what sweetie Oh false start that's a shame and yeah apologies to be on pole and other people in the air hammers puman and other Swedish people on the I FSC circuit for having a no idea what the national dish of the country is nice guard yeah no problem out left as Bowl is going by pretty quickly it's pretty big guy so you would have thought this would be a tricky little stand up move before here me I just over rotates on that top hold it's a lot of force going over to the left as he stands out I'm just waiting for your stone phone to start bleeping with messages from you know Swedish friends just to tell us exactly what the sides are of the meatballs in there hardly the most important question of the night but there we are Sammy Wingo back on then skipping out that second volume I always just it moves so easily looks like it's going in a completely different method here all the way up the left side of these volumes interesting tactics here that's the top polish see how bad it is can you reach it from that lower left volume hold it's blocked so the good bit is them on the lower one now climb yourself in a bit of trouble here can you push that out looks like Doc's might be coming thick and fast on this Boulder two attempts could be crucial we slightly worried by this because he knows he's getting close to the top but not bringing it home and it's a can't help but play with your nerves a little bit when you know that you basically got the boulder done you're not finding the body position good close-up of that running jump gone are the days where running jump was just to run across the volumes to a jug right across free volumes palm down your left arm hit the right hand well and then hop your left foot just saw Thomas I'll let skinned the back of the shop they're one of our roots setting team very successful competitor before hand as well big backswing so much power this guy it's got no problem at all getting himself over to the left you could try a different right foot position this time he's not going back to the original method here and here to see just starting to panic a little bit now he can easily do this Boulder it does look really bunched on that top move so he just needs to go back to its original method and just stick with it now slowly start to power out on the jump [Music] yes we missus two volumes in that running jump sequence less of a running jump does more of a hop off of one volume this time it goes back to the original method can you just control it doesn't just drive by the finishing hold this is going to be so frustrating for him how many times did he get close to that top hold and he couldn't find a way have a look at this especially running jumped he just pings it off the middle haul him all the way through to the left foot landing on that far blue leo fabu first of two French climbers Sarah to second of the two French climb has already had nothing across and second of the two French climbers this is the oldest category of climbers we see in the user mode championships by the way climbs born in 2000 or 2001 so no one's done that move first time you can see why just require quite a lot of coordination but they've generally been been figuring it out pretty quickly earlier doing that there's a bit more of a conventional skip of the feet all of them really generating power of that backswing it says may have thought that there might be a slightly harder running jump but these guys are dominating this first part of the boulder nice nicely look over a rotation just manage to control it if somebody blew his shoulder out and his right shoulder I can't help but wince on that move right foot high it's superb climbing here they are four forgets it done second go nicely done some wing guard will be frustrated here yes like it different technique putting the right foot really high on that first right hand handheld see yellow volume up in the groove there konishi then first of two Japanese climbers the last few years Japanese athletes really have dominated this style of Boulder let's see how he gets on with it really quick feet and we're near sticking their hands that time just thinking about the different option to you in for a couple of multiple foot swaps there looks all could I have to say if they I think if you've got the umph it certainly looks easier to go like sounded just fire at it rather than get through intricate you've got more to think about if you kind of skip the feet along I know that's how it was designed but and helps you said Mike someone always has a go there's always one there's a quick look let's go over feet in a slightly different order this time it's the biggest thing about these running jumps it's just getting the ordering the feet which feels like you're going off the wrong foot to start with if you feel like you're getting off the right foot inevitably it's wrong to figure that one out getting better with the hands now but still over a tasting in not quite a long way away from landing that left foot doesn't seem to be bouncing into that and far left hold quite as much as the other guys where it's not got the high at the moment [Music] now tries to go statically again slides down the volumes that let the attackers have gauged the angles of those volumes perfectly they would have been just tweaking those to get them just right [Music] Kathir Kenichi just struggling on this coordination bowl at the moment [Music] got a distance that time started farming down another left hand just over a minute left progress is being made here the moment it left they still got a lot of work to do still got the upper part to worry about as well [Music] so we've said it I've had a few climbers could do with the top here does not want to get left behind top twice already Katsura Konishi trying again going with a little bit too much speed it looks like body weights carrying on past the left hand still struggling with that move must be so sure on time now there you can hear the beeps yeah the scurrying I know that's how it's designed scurrying doesn't look the way does it looks so much better if you can just cut a couple of foot movements out sort of Emma gasps on our second Japanese after that see what he makes of this coordination move no different technical together trying to hit the high volume of his left hand landing the foot on the palm down volume my parkour style here looks like I've cursed the Japanese a little bit by saying at them the last couple years been really dominating on this style but not so much in this mail Junior category final hold nice that's good it's the right technique that time the hands landed in the right order just over-rotated before his left foot hit the blue following the two identical volumes on the left there [Music] that time is better in terms of the left foot with the hands weren't quite right whose feet are skidding on the volumes at the bottom up it as well doesn't into getting the great purchase of those volumes Safa a Magatha and still just struggling with the coordination move in closer and closer just seems to be improving on the hands and losing the feet brewing on the feet and missing the hands just way that the first two climbers the FFO Nathan Martin came out absolutely smashed this move try something back to its original method they're asking for the brush off the brush can't get much closer than that without doing the move ah now it gets it done nicely done how many attempts can be fastened I can see when his girl pops up it's not over got to control this laughs we can't afford to blow it here just over rotates now and falls see it's right fur just creeping round when that volume has he got time to do it again okay once you've done it you can do it gets it up move just maybe ten seconds after his previous effort [Music] how he gets it what a battle that was a top is the most important factor that would give me a huge pile of attempts just wait for the judges to input his score sort of um I guess it gets it done next and last climb around this Boulder is gonna be Mac's meal it's never never look left foot right foot left foot left foot that's how the foot sequence win in the end super cool move let's see if max moon has been dialing in his coordination jumps still just waiting for sources Amma gases scores come in it's a lot of cross-checking to do for the judges as so many attempts for now we just get to concentrate on max max moving super fast his left hand all the way down to that far blue volume we create picture here in the crowd here is the speed world champion from Japan Luda video facilities has been announced the crowds he's come as a special guest max Mele no gets to focus on this jump it's just still trying to figure out his foot sequence at the moment he usually got the power to get the distance he's got to get the coordination right sent your screen you can see a judge talking to a guy in a striped shirt that is Ludovico for Sally speed climbing world champion from just a few weeks ago out in Japan I'm here to watch the male junior bouldering final [Music] maximilien running short time big pressure here on him what all over that boulders oh he touched every single hold in that next set of sequences it's been interesting this ball I thought we might see top after the top after the top it's not actually proved to be the case yeah exactly why these root sets but these boulders in because they just know they're gonna get good split of results for all different athletes and max me on here he's almost going to fast across this lower set of foot holds it just needs to dial down the power a little bit just concentrate on the footwork Wow I have no idea what actually happened there is established on the zone all happened a bit too fast maximum can he control it to the top hold now just got to go slowly and over rotates on the top move big pressure here on max if he wants to keep up with Leo and Nathan's Autorama gasser as well they've all topped this motor I see 12 attempts the SATA Makassar in the end the score does eventually come let's have another look see what he does here for some lot of moves in there yes quite lazy that counts as one move and it's also what's going on there I was about to try and count the movements he's pretty determined to stick with this method hi so much going on with the feet maximilien has he got time he just rushes towards the top he's got a move you can rush and falls on the top move bit of a heartbreaker there for max Milne yeah that was a bit of a tough one to watch to be honest just have another look watch the feet here on this attempt how far away is from that next stable position huge kick net hops hops hops [Music] see here Ludovico for Sally world champion and future Olympian is being introduced to the crowd if you're wondering what all the shouting is about there is down the front sways to the crowd looks like they're just gonna do an interview which we may not be out of here clearly said we will just focus on tonight's Junior fine Oh Maximian unfortunately last flamer out couldn't find a top on that board we're gonna move on she was the final climber as I said we're gonna be moving on to the second Boulder its Leah for who got on top of that first ball in just two attempts so did Nathan Martin thought oh my gasps I got it done in 12 attempts how often do we see that just keep on going zone his fifth attempt touch the last hole twice competition does continue now Nathan Martin currently sitting in second on count back to previous round over his compatriot Leo for vote still really muggy and hot out eggs just to go in the front row just wiping his brow somehow it's slightly cooler than yesterday but it's still it's definitely a warm one here we go then male junior final board number two super-powerful section of volume wrestling sort of make your way up this a Rhett just above him on the angle change canvassing around there Nathan math in these French guys looking deadly strong here [Applause] if it goes put a really entertaining final listen on so far left hand just pops at the crucial moment yeah really powerful start into a mantle and her hands-free move towards the top so getting through this angle change a bit of camping around on those volumes and then just pushing and squeezing it out judges just move against for a bit of a dressing up to be done the number just flapping around seen that number of times today it was always here in the climate competitions bit of paper with a couple of safety pins just holding it on a hi-tech judge has given up on that one that's obviously not long for this world that number tag unfortunately have to go back home and print himself a new one [Music] so easily through that lower section got a feeling this one's going to come down to a balance he bowled other rather than short of climb of short power through this bottom section just pushing down really nice with that right hard to bring the right foot up pushing a squeezing now just got a rock over on that right knees is a much better position this time for Nathan Martin and falls in the same position the king goes in for a drink between the rep between attempts on the botnet see that that often gives you an idea quite how warm it is out there really using his time wisely you can see the difference between the youth be boulders in these older category the oldest category the male juniors just really measuring their time wisely using their four minutes you can see the classic Arco colored war in the background off to Nathan Martin's right-hand side that's where the qualifying boulders were for this competition or some other qualifiers I should say not a big memory has been made on that wall over there on the agro rock masters over the years onto this new facility now they see if it's got anything left then they've been marching straight up to that left hand Gaston used a lot of power on this Boulder but has he got enough he just feet skidding about got the zone on his first attempt yeah it just seems to be a real balance issue at the top they can see him shaking quite a lot on that top move trying to squeeze that left foot up Samuel out Next then massively annoyed after the first Boulder cruising through the jump probably made it more easily than anybody else before or after him I couldn't find a top when that taught me we saw that from max Milne as well see if you can reset and just take this on as a whole new challenge forget about the previous board and just concentrate on the bother in front of you obstacle high feet straight away here from time your winger uses all that power really wisely is hanging off the zone rather the memories bodies way underneath him though maximum power ups at top crimp in his foot is already in the position he needs it it's all about getting that left foot up as well though looks like you might try and change it from a hill to a toe that's what you really want to do it's a lot of weight going for that hill at the moment now it changes it so better positions start pushing it out a lot of right leg strength needed to use anything for the left foot and efforts really trapped under the roof here Sammy wouldn't go find something yes it's clever to reach down and use the panel yeah it looked like he almost found something on that panel edge as well just committed to the one leg press there Sammy winger used a lot of power to get through that lower section didn't look quite as efficient his effort as Nathan Martin are we talking about chalk being used on the brush earlier we were just wondering if we weren't really wondering we've just confused for a second whether that was a legal or not and then we check back our memory bank with hours and hours of live streaming vote yes but if we seen that before and some viewing guard has used a bit of chalk on the end of the brush there just to try and improve the conditions it's super sweaty here today I always enjoy it sometimes we we do get these little queries about could you do that and I've asked technical delegates and sometimes they go that's a good question always makes me feel a bit better just yeah all just blurs into one and after a while look today's gonna try that same effort that hi right heel it's powerful rollover can we wait and go really the en Hoyer of the Mayo Junior category sure he won't mind me saying that pressing out a bit higher this time for that finishing slot it's not a move you can go too quickly there's a really tight slot [Music] he's certainly could not be accused of not giving this final everything Sandling carpenter hasn't yet really had his reward as I say it's certainly not through a lack of fight 45 seconds left nicer catch a glimpse of the clock and miss a clock like an old friend same method again they're from Samuel this is the obviously the way that he's read it that's the way he wants to stick to it the potty way out to the right there really has to give it absolutely everything to get that top crimp now he's going to just try and push it out which method he really tried this time it goes for the high stand-up just can't keep the body close to the wall that's gonna be it on that Boulder comes away just for the zones whose name no top the FFO is next after his awesome performance on the first Boulder [Music] so what can they are favo do with this one [Music] what's up moving it dynamically out to the far right there two methods that were seen on this palette already looks like the rock anthem' so we saw in the previous panel have been ditch and it's back to the heavy heavy trance scenes here yeah we went it's like a tour through my teenage years earlier on we had loads of offspring and has to be in your iPod luckily that managed to throw that way ouch back to their 120 BPM that's more my style so that's big box little box what was it big fish Big Bob don't embarrass yourself big box big box shows my knowledge the FFO this time gets it don't mix traffic on the right hamstring there this move is not gonna be ideal for him if you've got any sort of tweak on that right leg he has got his left foot up in portly this is a really good body position here drops his left foot up off now just commits that the almost a one-legged press to finish here uses that underside of that feature such a tenuous position feel like as soon as his left hand releases he so close to wobbling off looks like he's gonna get it but now he doesn't rushed it right at the end of the took a massive smackdown leave her photo he was there he literally had it in his hands let's have another look it's just flat footing that volume was in the perfect position as soon as he just lifted his head almost that tiny amount of momentum just tipped him off servants had the zone on this one both both beholders have featured Heartbreak Hotel finishes yeah the kid a slaughter top of a boulder another classic technique from the roots just but horrible low percentage finish hold on what do you think right do we see more of these kind of heartbreaking near finishes in the youth competition or am I dreaming now I don't think we do actually we see plenty of senior climbers falling off the last move you know the route says I can say do you love her do you love a low-percentage finish hold it's a really good way of creating drama top the polder and a way of getting the athletes to have multiple attempts and multiple attempts at burning a lot of time and effort as well because they fall off right at the end and one of the series that I set for in London we had a whole year where every basically every single finish home was a slot as a ongoing theme that once you started you might as well continue so much in the right knee the right leg and he's just tipping back you'd see his backside the weight just pushing him back there's the angle changes it's really nothing there just the angle itself actually looks like he's getting something out of it has a tiny bit on that next edge you can see there's a slight overlapping panels it looks like he used almost all of his gas on his second go and that's gonna be it disappointment for the FFO who's absolutely storming the first Boulder let's drop back down to second place early ffo behind his compatriot nathan martin some attempts to zones get sewer akane she's out next fourth clock out yes fourth climber out to to come after him so it's a Mikasa and max mill yeah no tops for Katsura on the first Boulder he was the only one not to get scouring the board actually didn't just kill the zone let's see if it gets on with this one a bit more easily up the right hand let's see how he gets through this next section we're locking off and bringing the feet really high super solid up to that point that's the same technique assembly wing guard use but just a little bit more controlled as we know now this Boulder comes down to this top sequence you can get the left foot on but then when you start picking out naturally the left foot drops off he's just pressing this one out this is superb here from Katsura Konishi Wow easily done doesn't want to come down it's so easy this is the way he just kept pushing that out superb straight from the left arm just to keep pressing or the heartbreak for him is he didn't get it done on the board to get anything out of Boulder one nope no zone no nothing yeah he's done everything you could to get back in the game though with that quick top flash opponent number two first top of it as well with just two climbers still to come Sato my gas is already out ready to get on with this one it's ready to kick it down to sleep top Boulder number one in 12 attempts sort of proving it's not over until it's over onboarding number one let's see what he can make of this it's hot bouncy mantel same technique we saw from Katsura both these Japanese athletes looking really strong on the crimps flexibility of Japanese is so good at this size style of move can you just find the balance point now it's just got to slowly raise that left leg whilst not losing balance keeping completely sucked into the wall can we repeat what his compatriot did oh yes he can superb just the receipt the way he's using his left foot just dragging it under the angle change to the rubber on the front of his left shoes giving him just enough not to lose the balance point on that top move max beyond it's out and ready to get on with this after struggling on the first Boulder yet work to do got the zone if you can flash the boulder it'll actually move into first place and it's a big if and oh sorry second place so - I'm Augustus go hunt have dated max going out with the feet now it's just got to swing that volume underneath him there we go up to the zone looking comfortable on the edges looking very powerful surely it's a thought for a second you might be but considering a lunge surely not Japanese guys definitely looked a bit more comfortable in these shapes than Max moon is currently just going for that lowdown method Japanese guys managed to stand it out really quick just try and go faster the last hold we're not seeing so to amicus's top being shown I care on my phone of my computer it's not coming through you got a ceramic asses to help no so far I'm not coming through his top was really slow to update after the first Boulder as well yeah I hope it's not a technical incident I hope it is a technical just know but I think I hope it's a technological incident not a technical incident as a word I'm looking for apologies it's been a long day still enjoying it though sitting here in our Co is some of the world's best youth climbers the stars of tomorrow to watch hard not to be here having a good time vocabulary is just becoming increasingly limited I've just had a double espresso so I'm good to go for the next couple of orders ok I'll be turning my mic off and I'll speak to you on Friday this is a v8 wait for that score to update Max moon has been close to the top of this bowl a bit didn't quite find the right position as to go to that finish holding control let's see what he does this time just hops the right foot across and it does look really comfortable on this lower section but can it just find the balance point here it's on the Japanese guys pushing it out from that stand-up position maximum I'm just dropping down again looks like he's gonna try and go fast and somehow sticks it that's that left toe hook under the roof an anchor change max at me hill who would have thought that was possible that came out of absolutely nowhere just used a little clamp at the foot on the other side of the roof I wonder if you'll see that again headphones go straight on for maximal back in the zone just all of a sudden just stood up into that final slot how of absolutely nowhere fully committed to it I was quite surprised it was gonna try that committed move again because it's a slight and it's so hard to get it right that time just straight down the barrel impressive second Boulder SOT I'm against the score still not displaying I think I'm gonna take a quick run down the front actually just to check what's going on with that yeah try and find out if you can Mike just need to burn that double espresso off he's off so we're send Mike down the front figure out what the what the news is it's a nut now of Nathan will be out next onto Paulding number three currently leading the way he will be he is until the Serta amicus's score updates if so am Augusta has to score we think he has and he will be first so bit of a funky start this one that's see just because you just got your first task is basically just to stand up we don't remove your feet you just just get up right no problem up to the zone you think cruise control up till now still in cruise control and topping in cruise control well that didn't hot take long he looks slightly disbelieving himself his result is flashing up so there's no problem with the scoring system so hopefully mike is finding out what's going on with SOTA a magazi stuck with me for now sam winGuard already ready to go there is pink clothes on both the boulders but no tops for him he's the only climber as yet without a top Mike what can you tell us yeah basically yeah just had a quick chat should we say with one of the technical it's saying it might one have a look at that there is down the front of the wall just conferring what's exactly going on I think this has been missed so you think it's an update this is an update issue it's not alarms to be rung unfortunately it's just a just an issue of not being updated or something if someone's just here not had their double espresso super long day for everybody down the front you can see the fish was just looking at it now kind of a blue t-shirt next to Kristoff the ific official on the left right there Mike I'm a bit every breathing going on a fleet like you I'm amazed I was enjoying that top well sit down the phone as well it was nice to get right down there Fred better view that we've got on the screen I was literally right underneath this Holly for very long that's right I run fast no common as fast as you can run in flip-flops anyway the main thing was not to trip over in front of so many screaming fans you can see the guys still not quite sure what's going on with the update than the bots and everyone so we've got two officials on the G on the case now I've run fast a pair of routes s the shoulders to carry around I don't think there's any faster running going on anyway I'll happily be proved wrong we've never been for a run yeah we never will be either happy took on the canvas board not on the running track you probably beat me on both so Sam on his way super techie this men's number three on his whole pile of gel texture flats groans the different challenge suppose number one and two and I actually done into that left hand Gaston crossing over to the right hand Gaston to top looks like he's gonna get it turn and does there we go saucer I'm Augusta moves up into second place could top their for Sammy Wingo good to see him at the top at last we kind of deserved one up to this point it's final rattling through all of a sudden Samuel temporarily moves up into the third place they are fervor then top on number one nothing on number two that heartbreak of him off the top move so as Leo Favreau been training these technical boulders as successfully as his compat rip so many undercut to all texture screens and this one it's a little bit hard to know what the sequence should be asked him for a brush here he comes Wow I've so nothing Martin's a demolition of this Boulder looks amazing what the first climber comes out climbs it that easily you just think okay see if you're seeing a few tops here it's not prove to be the case at all yes well one thing I like about this set of boulders most boulders here require three skill elements in the same Boulder if it's a running jump then you have a bouncy move after it if it's a powerful problem you have something technical after that's what we saw number two number three does seem to be pure technique though along with a little bit of crimping and if you're really good on your feet and importantly read the sequence right and this Boulder really does seem to suit you and that that's definitely what happened for Nathan Martin just waving his right foot around there's four different for adoptions tiny little red chips now he gets a nice control out to the zone a lot of force going for that left fighting seized his left foot is just shaking a little bit doesn't seem to be quite be able to put the weight through it [Music] it's been a fair amount of energy here they are just asking for brushes and cleaning his shoes certainly not convinced as Eddie felt me I foresee photographer in the background getting the job done [Music] straight to the zone from the lower-left-hand this is better Leo goes up to the left hand just needs to get their feet engaged and then cross through looks a little out of reach from though we'd love to commit in some way got himself in a bit of an awkward position with his left forearm in front of his face so he's just trying to use the screw hole just to take the weight this is the screw hole completely to go up to the top hole with his left hand superb use of the screw holes in the volume on that jewel sexy side of the volume there didn't panic in that or could cross over ablution at the top looked at he was too short just to reach the top hold s it was nice little hand swap at the top Katsura Konishi then currently down in sixth position even though he flashed the second bolt it didn't get any pink on the board on the first Boulder meant for everybody else but also he can move straight up into third position even second with a quick top here a flash yes so time Augustus scores updated by the way so he's into third for now still to climb this Boulder tilt of attempt this Boulder I should say Katsura Konishi currently on it that's the same method they're pushing out from that lower left volume all the way up to the zone missing out the middle screw on the confused at this Boulder was so many holds on it real test a particularly of young climbers albeit these climbers that as juniors comfortably old enough to be competing in World Cups but still four compared to World Cup climbers inexperienced young climbers there's an awful lot to read as mike says yes it managed to swap that around for a mislead of a left left gaston he's got it as a right hand side ball crimp and he's really pulling on it now really waiting that crimping your hands shaking but it's a put himself in a super body position for the top move easy two flashes for Katsura Konishi pushes himself up into third based on number of zone holds I'm Agatha then the second year second Japanese athlete they were absolutely superb on the second Bowl let's see what they make of this third one that first push under the volume the Japanese looks so confident on their feet here on these bad footholds you saw that on the second bottle smashing through this third motor just a matter of seconds if he gets the top well that's about as easy as you will see a boulder look at this level so you're gonna have to go back into the isolation zone to try and keep warm so quick there barely tested in any way on that Boulder this one's gonna be really close down to the final border for sure max billing is next on this one did and crucially get the zone in Boulder number one again so today my gases score slightly slow to update yeah max Mira you need to top here to stay in contention yeah if he doesn't find a quick top if it puts him riding attention as well could yes when so to score comes three he will have three tops on three boulders so he'll go into the final Boulder in control but max could be chomping at his heels not sure what it is about this game the computer in it not liking sama gasses name have to wait on that one again let's concentrate on max me on this is definitely the method that seems to be working really well for these athletes going straight to that so in hold just tapping into can almost skip two or three holds on this Boulder can you just keep it together here max min on this top move just nice not panic on the last movies on the tilt extra side in this right hand just flips again for the left hand slight warm-up it does get it done with ease that's good work from max Mill Rockets him straight up into second place max everyone's gonna be fighting for a podium here yeah he is I'm just trying to figure out the math so sorry I'm a gas again he's still showing down in fifth and it doesn't half confused me because he should be first yeah the only climber were three tops but max mill nathan martin and leo favo have all got two tops and three zones Katsura Konishi two tops but crucially not the third zone Sam your wind guard one top three tones bottom number four is going to be this selection of black circles in the middle of that just to the right of middle of this overhanging facility here so these guys have been through that section already on the second Bowl of that blue volumes and the crimps rocking on to the head wall but now it's something completely different final Boulder of this extremely long day here at the UFO Championships fairly enjoyable British team down the front their Japanese team joining them so one more Boulder to go really this one is is wide open it and provided system Oh gasps Oh doesn't do it if he doesn't it can take a hundred tries if he wants but he will be the youth world champion if you can't top it it is open big French team looking on nervously both their climbers are still in this one that's how you dance to these tunes as parents at home will be looking antic newer should have left him on his own this is a youth World Championship so I'm speculating that it's just too much coca-cola I mean if this is a senior event I wouldn't want to speculate now absolutely sweet moves have to say it's been to the dad school of dancing we're both keen students you would never see me on the dance floor there's a challenge [Music] and you should have got to that Pikachu based Club in Tokyo Saucer am a gaseous good does now update three tops in 14 attempts he is currently leading the way bit of a delay here for this final border so it's just a slight delay as the switch on the floodlights here still flood lies yeah but lights are going on for the final Boulder if my Italian is a anything to be trusted okay so we've got no idea what the delay is in that case the lights are warming up a little bit there sure they were entirely necessary I mean hey whatever long as we can see what's going on I'm happy so if that requires the floodlights it's fine by me just say every time there's a five-minute delay that's one more mosquito bite that we're gonna end up suffering here in the commentary box okay I'm getting all of this one shares in Jungle formula must've gone through the roof this last few days and it's gonna have a bar for this tomorrow bit of jungle formula going on smell of it is searches certainly marginally better than getting bitten by mosquitoes nathan martin and from france clearly sitting in second place needs to do this is if he wants to win the competition men's number four then slightly artificial start that's not quite exactly as the roots hairs would have light but it's so much release move between those pockets they're sloping dish pockets and there's a really decent inca screw on edge on the third what i think it's the third one along we could just pan up and have a little look we can see the full boulder and then a really hard pressed mantle towards the top you can see you know on that feds own hold it's a really really big in cut edge if Lee expecting a bit of a spectacle on this move hitting that zone hold camera team and managed to find their way into the crowd here we go then right hand up to the first lipid distance dishes are absolutely awful is he just gonna try and jump straight to the good edge just try and flick it off the toe hook [Music] this could going to be so tight this we saw the last final come down to the last climber on the last boulder and it's going to be potentially similar here so ceramic asses score has updated now it's been the best climber so far that's for sure three tops no one else can match that he's going to have to bring it home on this final Boulder Nathan Martin just try to use a little left heel hook on one of those starting to side pulls try to go a bit more statically to those next set of rings tries to go quickly thinking to see that developing a lot more interesting starting position here and he just tapped the second hold and once again the roots just challenging the rulebook slightly gotta be control on the hands so what she's right-handed two taps down just a quickest touch French team looking on nervously Nathan needs to do this if he wants to get up over there with otter amigaos close he clearly feels he can do is not messing around at all it doesn't go for chalk go straight into the next effort it's a really sort of sharp jug that is going for as well not one necessarily want to jump to [Music] Nathan Martin's done everything he can and that is quite a lot actually he's look great two tops in three attempts and three zones in four attempts sets the benchmark for silver medal place at the moment so some wind guard can't win this competition the win is guarded by sir so I guess it's good thanks touches that starting I guess intended as a starting crimp with his foot we would have thought this Boulder really suit Sam sticks that second ring off the toe hooks yeah that was nice still got the same move to do though looks like he's gonna release all the way into the zone descriptive spectacular move hits it just comes up on the edge very impressive three understands how to use that height of his yes you've got height and power you might as well use it as the polar suits you just absolutely give it everything that's where they going for you can see the route sisters have added that little jib there just to ease the passage to the zone still not looking very easy though yeah it's not one you can really fly to it's worth it's got a bit of a blocker down the back of it sharp crimp with a blocker down the back to make it less sharp that's the starting position that you're looking for mint is to maintain that right tow hook matches now it just needs a bit more control ice close that there's almost got to land it straight away as a crimp do you think it's an accuracy issue I think it's it's it's an unconventional hold really I mean it's definitely a deal of accuracy required to get it but it's a hold that it's been manufactured in that it's a conventional hard with a bit of a weird block it down the back of it so you can't touch it from the ground so they think that's just going up there just every time they hit it just getting a bit more of a feel for what it's actually like to hold on to and but he's doing it as a bit of a flick off the tow hooks as well so it's definitely a coordination issue going on as well as timing as well as accuracy basically it's a modern bowler in a nutshell I'd say right [Music] thank you it's really we're looking for the guys to start with both crimps in the middle of the wall and then flick it so hook up there a wily old bunch this male junior category though they're not doing it either it has initially intended [Music] the closest anyone's got yeah that hurt see it's just look at your fingernails a little bit as a pretty awkward little hold that one [Music] [Music] this time hits the crimp checks the time it's got to push it out to small Gaston in the middle the wall that's all this got left comes up short again this is painful to watch sorry winGuard could have won this competition absolutely fierce battles on every one of the four borders put on a great show it's the press out of sixth place though unfortunately I have to say the lights are completely unnecessary but they do look dramatic the climb is silhouetted against the wall that's a very thoroughly enjoyable battle towards that top crimp three times he tried to hit it and slid back down the wall my boy has got a lot of power to kill Leo for Bowie next then again needs to do this he wants to be up there yeah he's currently down in fourth would move into first if you could find the top albeit you have a bit of a bit of a nervous weight on his hands [Music] Rowe pulls back on for another look at this one quick tap of that intermediate pocket see what he makes of this little flick trying to get the release just off that second pocket this trick isn't it you can kind of you can see where the route setters were going with this one you know it might still work you know that time just as he hit the mats he didn't mind that he wants to do it as a kind of one two three that crimp additional screw increment doesn't require a lot of accuracy as well it's one two three but we have a deal of accuracy releasing the toe at the same time sure so judges that starting position it's ghost yeah he's going direct new he likes it I have to say it looks looks better to me yeah it goes directly up bringing the right hand in at the same time just watch this right hand as well as the left hand right hand goes into the middle of the two left hand goes out to the third one I think if you hadn't missed with that right hand he might get this done yeah you could always kind of try and float it a bit more without even trying to attack it so I'm sure he will try that method again cuz it looked pretty promising that crimp it's just not quite what he needs it to be jumping on it with that much force I feel like this has been a nicely set round actually I've enjoyed it we've had a some battles a few flashes a few people not able to get anything on a bowl of at this Boulder right now is proving to be maybe a little bit too hard [Music] [Music] no KMC getting everybody fired up Leo slowly looks like it's powering out asking for the brush once again very briefest of achieving a stable position holds it he does hold it now he's got here he's got to figure out what to do though cannot afford a miscalculation here just because time will be ticking away so he's got a lever himself up get the crimp and go for the top and neither left leg off my right leg up will feel particularly comfortable but he's got to go with one of them poles oh he touched it went straight into the crimp position with that top right hand the you can see it's world championship medal disappearing in front of his eyes here nice it is off it gave it everything he could on the final Boulder just have another look this is end up being a coordination jump left hand out to the cream right hand tap seen big leg swing didn't look too bad when he landed it which makes me realize if you get the timing in the accuracy that the whole two are good enough to stop the swing how he was so close to that perfect cross ou cross fremantle Katsura Konishi now another climber we could put himself in first position with a quick top you remember this is in his compatriots hands ultimately Katsura can issue can put him under real pressure quick top here well in facts he can he can afford to 12 attempts 11 his have excuse me he could afford 11 attempts and it'll be enough to get him into first for now so just going off a high right he'll then rather than a tow hook trying something different oh statically into that second pocket can you hold the swing you can't that's a really good a little bit of Route setting they can you can't see mean you can't take the swing on that really pull in that right foot right into that shoe except he look just so desperately wants to ping off that far right hand body we can see them that previous attempt he's right here was really creeping and on the top of the volume [Music] 2:15 left on the clock a brief glimpse of our old friend the clock again the very briefest of glimpses of a stable position as well as you're gonna do this time you're gonna turn it into a coordination little flick out to that edge try something a bit different can't hold the swing on those two such a bad set of sloppy dishes not soapy dishes sloppy dishes probably a bit of both to be honest in these conditions snow pea and soapy terminology that climbers love to use so behold kind of went short gets all humid and horrible gets all a bit soapy that's just British climbers moaning about conditions all the time not sure the latter okay so Katsura Konishi lining it up here I'm not sure what method he will use it gets himself in the same position but can he move on from there now I'm not sure go through the right-hand door work really good this product it's not immediately obvious what the sequence has to be yeah I like this Boulder it's so we haven't seen the top but I really like the way it's making people think anyone can pull hard it's it's nice for climbers have to think that's good to make me think whilst they're pulling really hard I think that's the trick you can combine the two you really are laughing back into the same position then you can get there easily bought you can do love it that's more like it just turned it into a little one two three yeah it doesn't want to release the toes and go straight for the zone and I can see his point I almost held that just moves the right hand out the dish onto the top of the hole gives you an idea of how bad that sloping dish is he prefers to use the top of the hold the root has ever even tried going up there and he's powering out now it does end his campaign he will finish in fifth position as it stands yep now then so - am agasa is out next and if he can find the top he will win the competition it's really that simple although from what we've seen today that is a very big if this Boulder has not looked easy at all we haven't had anyone topping it yet a couple of climbers had the zone this is where it stands in SATA I guess of three tops three zones 14 attempts to get stops 13 attempts to get so max me on out next two tops and three zones top says he buries the opposition try to pop out left left max meant clinging on in there I'm great Brittany his fans wait nervously to see what sorta a Mikasa can do three tops to his name already to any climber to get their best climber of the night so far just changing that right heel hook to a toe hook now planting on the face of that volume would be a very extreme swing if you hold that thinking of that swing from Kai Harada in the combined finals if you watch that took that one-handed swing on a crimp there that would be similar to what Sato my guess would need to do on this one so to a madrassa in first place if nobody he may not be caught and passed but he can take it out of anyone else's hands by finding a top here that's getting close now that's the method that we've seen been successful so far just a myth of the FFO was using pop the left hand across to the blocked edge drop the right hand in and hold the swing big moment here this could be absolutely huge ah big puffer choke is the right hand slaps down I got a bit disco for a second there yeah I'm surprised this is the first time he's gone in for a brush for a long time no surprise he doesn't brush that pocket a little bit more as well one minute and eight seconds left so I throw my guess if he finds a top and win this competition now hold to swing extraordinary sir from system agasa he was the best climber on the first three boulders what can he find on number four a top will win him the Youth World Championship he's called the crimp if you can get the feet up he should be away SOTA a Mikasa youth world champion no doubt who the best climb has been today and he's just hammered home that fact here on Bulldog number four one of only three climbers to get the job done on number one he then topped everything ever since flashing two of them he is the youth world champion he's the best climber we have seen in this final right man has won this one max mill now if he can find the top as well he'll be second no shame in second as well against South irma gases demonstration of those four boulders the way that he topped that Boulder seriously impressive in the end as soon as he stuck that so hard he topped the boulder let me saw that that top move is not easy absolutely dominated these boulders here tonight software Mikasa it really was in question for a long time they're from torta the door was remaining open for maximum for quite a long time there but right at the death got the coordination move done yeah if max can find a zone here depending on the number of attempts he could end up second he'd certainly end up on the podium but a top will seal second for him he is the last climber out what method will he use how many attempts really take there the bump of the left hand it'd be crazy if that works it would be amazing you the thought is the harder way of doing it being great this so it's in climbers go all sorts of different ways and make different ways work as well feels like the the kind of the difficulty levels just been pitched right where you can try different methods maximilien currently sitting in fourth position how badly he would learn to be on that podium the training super hard this world championships we've just seen the boulder topped by a SOTA am agasa on his sixth attempt can max min do so the difference between second and third could come down to attempts to zone so it needs to be reasonably wise with his attempts but by the same token if he tops the bolt it doesn't matter how many attempts he needs he will secure second so lots of things to think about for max of mini calculations to be made nice just tried it one two three little hand coordination moves currently going off the toilets around the corner saucer amigaos managed to plant his rightful it right on the face that while skipping is left toe underneath so max mill heads back to the bowl of losers starting holes just studying shaking out really could do with making this one count I trying the the more technical dynamic method trying to match that middle one and then go out to the left you can see the background there 55 seconds to go max has come on give me something to work with here [Music] sets up again tries a coordination method he ends up with the hands in the right Department doing that method but potentially a really hard way of doing it I mean that's easy for us to say except I've seen other guys successfully do that move by bringing the right hand into the middle one whilst going left hand out but not doing it as a triple just think there's a double lines it up again try something different he's running out of time here maximum it's gonna stroke her to improve on his for position here after doing so well in the semi final round coming out in first position Maximilian Emil has given it absolutely everything he could tonight yeah he will end up in fourth place couldn't get anything else to that Boulder so ii am aghast so the winner of the Youth World Championship in his junior category in the boulder the only climb is to top that last poll that just rammed home what has been his clear superiority today Mike good finals have finished me and I think it think there's proper my favorite final of the day yeah really entertaining stuff really good set of boulders a couple other boulders were super interesting terms of the coordination technical boulders as well volume wrestling mantling it had it all and a superb finish from soft Emma gasps so you can see it there too for Topsy was these runaway winner really he was really but look at that it just goes to show persistence pays twenty attempts for his fourth top so how important that first the top was for him as well I was massive if max Milne any wall put off that top hole as did other guys and you know that has huge moment right at the start of the competition to french crime is taking a couple more medals holiday it's been for France early we saw re I'm bout to complete the double of lead and Boulder in the youth be and they pick up another couple of medals today max mill just missing out Katsura Konishi ending it with two tops and with one top and a all four zones which is no mean feat was Samuel Wingard that is all from Mike and I today to stay with us we will be bringing either podiums for this and the final we saw just before it the male youth be that's all from us at no live streaming tomorrow qualifications for bouldering but then we're back with a 2 pack day is to round out this fabulous Arco Youth World Championship Friday and Saturday so do join us then thank you for watching and as I say stay with us for the podiums so we will have to send Mona watching a couple of minutes so please everybody go to the podium because we are going to start with the ceremony words in a while all right according for that lead for the same reward so please matter mark in May of iboga ceremony Awards all right and even for the I ladies and gentlemen a victory ceremony for the World Youth Championships 2019 category you'd be male under numerous in Yuri ceremony de premature on a volcanic camp unity del mundo joven illa do you need additional category you would be mail folder please welcome the matter is llamo admitted yeah International President of the Trentino bronze medalist representing Vanya Edward Bruce it is silver medalist representing Japan in the other gender inta Sekiguchi gold medalist world 2019 for the category you'd be male Mulderig representing dad or a comparable mondo to a meal addiction or a la category you'd be main folder present on today Thomas Nico [Music] ladies and gentlemen the world championships mainly is the senior a senior in the middle campeonato del mundo all right with the ceremony ladies and gentlemen victory ceremony for the World Youth Championships 2019 category junior male Mulder you're a senior II that ceremony Dupree methionine wonder to Manila to am in addition no Vela category a junior named Mulder please welcome the medalist [Music] Maria Scolari of Dino bronze medalist representing France [Music] see their metal is representing brands Leo follow [Music] [Music] for the category jr. mail folder presenting Japan Ghidorah a computer mondo humility channel the la catégorie junior male wonder presentable Japanese SATA a Mikasa ladies and gentlemen please you [Music] you [Music] ladies and gentlemen the world championships medalist Senora Senora del mondo all right guys this is it for these really intense a day you

Channel: International Federation of Sport Climbing

Views: 61,970

Keywords: sport, climbing, ifsc, 2019, live, replay, streaming, rock, #ifsc, #ifscywch, compeition, world championships, champion, championships, world, boulder, bouldering, speed, lead, finals, semi-finals, men, women, arco, italy, youth, kids, girl, boy, junior, Youth A, Youth B

Id: 7EbJ-ddzFps

Length: 237min 56sec (14276 seconds)

Published: Wed Aug 28 2019