IFSC World Cup Salt Lake City 2021 || Boulder finals

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[Music] [Music] welcome back to the finals for the salt lake city boulder world cup there is nothing left to do now but climb some boulders the root centers have finished their work they look really really good we are going to get underway first with the women's final followed by the men's final we're going to take a quick look back at some of the highlights from the semifinal round and show you how these athletes got into the final [Music] [Music] just having a quick look at the boulders on the wall this is what we're going to be treated with today [Applause] six finalists come through [Music] all right here we go with a look at the highlights from the semi-final round a quick look at one of the most difficult boulders in the round as it did not see a top at all and then on the right we have orian berton stepping into her first women's climb and absolutely walking it with creativity and she kind of kept that momentum throughout the entire round yeah absolutely here we get a good look at the compression builder miho nanaka really good show of control here you'll see a little slip that she manages to reel back in it's a veteran composure right there and on our way to a smooth top [Music] the women had a pretty interesting number three where actually every woman topped women's boulder number three we have jessica pilch on that boulder right there as you know hannah farber gets through this boulder actually and that is the reason that she will be in the final here tonight and this will be her second final ever in her world cup circuit career yeah really critical piece of climbing right at the end quick look at the compression boulder from the top just to show you how bad those holds really are and then an exciting moment we had the back to back tops from the american women both brook rabbits and natalia grossman were absolutely on fire in the semifinal round and this is the second week or the second competition in a row for natalya making a final and brooke rabatu's very first world cup bouldering final yeah so that is and they're up on the big stage here's a great look at the jump this boulder gave some of the men absolute fits that was a quick look at mesh d on men's number two the clock was running down on him here and he was moving very quickly you got a really good look at this technique to finish this boulder so a combination that boulder you see the second variation for sticking the jump and another variation for sticking the top by anzai the tow hook proof be very important jakob schubert on the footless traverse i'm sure he's extremely happy to be in the final tonight as he missed out on semis in bayern again bulldog 4 also gave the men lots of trouble you see adam andre here uh one of only uh two climbers to top the boulder across all 20 semi-finalists and he made the top look a lot easier than everyone else did meanwhile natalia grossman topping of rarely not sorry just missing rarely topped boulder but would come back adam andre's super happy and kokoro fuji getting the only top on this boulder and really showing how patience is going to pay off here because so many of the men were able to get one hand on the finish hold here but he really stuck to his guns and made sure to be super intentional with every placement and he'll end up holding here for a little bit just to figure out how to perfectly match this boulder and being the only one to send it yeah the contact strength required to stick that and you know given the strength of all the men in the round uh and that just that little flag was the difference that got him that top and uh and put him solidly in control of the round so this is uh we're going through the observation now so the athletes come out we get to see them all one at a time and then the format if you've never watched the finals before uh we have four boulder problems and we all of the women will climb each boulder one after another in the same order every time so they're all gonna climb boulder number one they're all gonna climb boulder number two and then three and then four in the same order every time it's gonna be orian bertone and then mijo nanaka jessica piltz johanna farber brook rabatu and then natalia grossman so they'll keep that order on every boulder exactly the same as in the semi-final round tops our king attempts are critical and zones are what you are looking for if you are not topping boulders exactly and in between each boulder they will go back to behind the wall there was a time when athletes would sit out in front of the wall but that's been long gone so you'll see them running and out of that doorway that they're coming out of right now right in between each climb they only get four minutes in this round they have five minutes in the qualifier five minutes in the semi they get four minutes to try the boulder but then because they're trying one after another they get about a 20 minute rest between boulders so because you've previewed the boulder so the athletes come out they don't see them uh before they come to the venue but they come out for observation they get two minutes to look at every boulder so now you've got a little bit of collaboration sometimes they'll talk about especially if the teammates are together the boulders at now in the final can be harder trickier showier because you have a chance to look at them talk about them and your rest are 20 minutes long so expect to see a lot of interesting movement in the finals we walked through and looked at the boulders and i do believe you are in for a treat yeah they definitely have some exciting movements out there a lot more dynamic than what we've seen in the previous rounds here this weekend but i would still say sticking to that theme of some really bad footholds yeah it has as we looked over the boulders each round and then looked at them as we came into the final it's uh it's really been i mean maybe consciously maybe not really but it has been a focus on delicate footwork we talked about some of the boulders that didn't get sent in the semi-final round men's number one notably and the root centers i mean it's uh it's just rock climbing get on your feet stay on your feet the slab they say wasn't that hard but obviously you layer in on-site climbing and all of the other factors but they were surprised to see that one not get as many tops i feel like that could be one of the kind of boulders where it's like maybe if they just had a little more time if it wasn't five minutes but seven minutes it could have been a difference um you see that occasionally happen where it's just too too cryptic for a five-minute clock and exactly again in finals we have a four-minute clock but they do that because you have the preview so you don't need to take 30 seconds a minute you should be able to come out here and get right on the boulder right away you take a quick double check to make sure that you've got on my left right on my right left and then you get up on it it's a good look they are allowed as you see here to touch the start holds but they cannot even hesitate about leaving the ground so you're allowed to touch the start hold which seems like it might be kind of unimportant but understanding the angle of the start holds is going to help you on your first attempt not go oh is it a bit to the left is it a bit to the right or my left foot on the ground my right foot on the ground so it's going to give you information that's critical for getting that start off right away so we're going to start with women men funnel will come after and we're going to go in the order the reverse order from which they qualify so that's going to be orian berton miho nanaka jessica piltz johanna farber brook rabbit two and natalie grossman the crowd is gonna be all about american women coming out as two and one in this final i it is i i think it may have been the only time we've seen women qualify this high from the us together we've had multiple women in finals in the past not sure they qualified in first and second before so uh this crowd is most likely gonna get pretty rowdy yeah and a good final on the men's side we're going to have mesh d schlack from france we have anzai pahark jacob schubert uh gregor vazonic alemandra and kokoro fuji those are all heavy hitters and a couple of slightly newer to the scene and we're going to see how well they do under the pressure of i would say the big lights but it's still daylight now the big stage the big stage so we are just going to get rolling with the women and we are focused there is no if you watch the semifinal and you were a bit lost with the slipping around and moving back and forth because we're trying to show you so much climbing here we are focused we are hanging out with orianne for four minutes and this is her second final uh in a few weeks and this is her first year on the world cup circuit so it's pretty impressive to already be in two finals yeah a good youth career um but at 16 years old this is uh it's very impressive to come out on your first year on the open tour and just uh and not even really need an intro you don't uh you don't finish slow in a couple rounds just absolutely came out and started throwing down so gentle moving here just getting a hand on the zone so a bit of a slab climb to start [Music] i just like how confidently she came out and just jumped up on the boulder because in reality starting that folder is kind of weird because you don't actually put your feet on the hold you're just kind of hanging it there and letting it touch the hole before you start and that could be a little weird but she came out and it's like this is what i'm doing really good work through these little crimps having to want it here because they are nasty to grab but looks like she should be able to rock over and get to that top the top is decent but you definitely have to get it right if you come up a bit shallow on that dish uh you are going to wish you were just a little bit more precise so uh on a flash attempt to get to the last hold um it sort of triggers in you like okay i can do this and now becomes the interesting game of clock management so do you give yourself a one minute rest and kind of have an attempt you know safe who keeps you slip or do you kind of go right away this is what you're going to start to see and we get a really good look because we're not moving away from the athletes we see their strategy and we see them kind of getting psyched looking back at the holds can i do something a bit different did i need to do something a bit different where was my foot like all of this is continually running through their mind so we we get to see a lot more uh through their time management and their strategy when we are in the final round and the other part of this too is making sure you remember exactly how you got up there in the first place and that'll be key because you don't want to be giving away attempts at all and orion is doing a good job of probably letting the clock run down a little bit to recover and not use as many attempts once you see a good look at the start it's uh you're just kind of hanging out on the bottom it doesn't give you a lot of help so you're on your arms straight away and then as we noted just tiny tiny little feet i feel like so many of the women though are really good at this style of climbing they're so used to grabbing really small holes and having to just lock them down and trust in their feet as [Music] [Applause] it was just a moment where you weren't sure if she was gonna keep sliding and she uh absolutely contact strength to do that is wonderful that is a great top and well we were talking about a bit in the semi-final because all the athletes are together behind the wall you go to a secondary isolation but they all sit together they have an idea how long it took you they hear the crowd there's a lot of knowledge and then they all collect together in the secondary iso occasionally athlete did you send the boulder did you not send the boulder but it adds a layer to the final in which you generally know who's sending boulders and what you need to do to get through maybe and win a cop so it is a little bit more gamesmanship a little bit more strategy on that side of everybody knows whether i'm crushing or not crushing it it's definitely far more stressful having a better idea and not just an idea but like kind of a clear-cut notion that something's being topped so once you if you start falling behind it's really hard to keep that mental game strong in order to keep being successful throughout the competition even if you have a bad start yeah absolutely miho nanaka quickly up into the zone section so what you see there is her tops and attempts from the semi final round and then on the right as we come across that uh little half bar on women's one as she controls the zone and then you're going to get a little hand canvassing on oh wanna bitter a little bit she left her foot i mean there is a foothold there and she elected to maybe try and go on top of the dual techs which not the best idea in order to have to rock over to that waco circular hold that's the finish hole that is just far enough to make it kind of difficult to get to the match but it looks like something easy to correct yeah it's just a powerful climber and i think you know given the way that she was moving she's thinking i'm just gonna hop and i'll be strong enough to control the finish i can match i can swing i'm not gonna come sliding out of this hole and and what happened was you know before that she lost her foot so you uh you have to be engaged all the time and it does happen you'll you see people kind of lose a tiny bit of focus thinking about the top and they'll slip in the middle somewhere and a move they've already done so that's something to uh to keep an eye on is whether they've as you say remembered what they did the first time and are they being careful enough to re-execute and what you just said is really important too you have to stay so present because if you're thinking about oh the top is so close you can't do that because if you lose your focus for half a second that's when you know you're falling off the boulder see if she can hop to the finish one hand as we said just a really good show of again contact strength come past plumb line stream contact screen she's happy and that's uh second try is uh same as orion really really good and it is interesting you'll if you're if you're a fan of climbing and you've watched a lot of climbing a lot of competitions you'll start to get a feel for the order of the boulders so the root centers are not another good look at just fully getting horizontal wonderful now the the root centers are obviously paying attention to the holes they're putting on the moves they're trying to create but they over all three rounds are thinking about what order are they so you come out of iso you're excited you're like ready to go punch something and then you get a bowler that's gonna be careful so you have to kind of control your adrenaline and control your excitement for getting on the first boulder and there's lots and lots and lots of tools in the root setters bag to just keep you on your toes keep you literally literally on your toes so that's a little tricky the way that jessie just started this boulder you have to kind of drag your feet and because she's a little taller she had to make sure she dragged them onto the actual hold because her left foot was still a little to the left of the hole for a second which is a little awkward to have to find to just press and find the hole for a second kind of blindly and you you might notice um the climbers who make mistakes getting established on the start will get called off right away the judge won't let them climb the boulder they'll pull them down immediately if they don't start um in order with the rules having to come into this cross which is one of the more really the first cracks of the boulder the most difficult part of the boulder sort of folding to that underplaying really gets your biceps going i honestly wonder if anyone will try to go double to this finish because it i mean if you can get two hands on it i feel like you could maybe control it a little better because your right hand drops anyway oh just her left foot just as she was generating momentum and you could see the way she was kind of winding her foot onto that hole she wasn't super confident that it was going to hold on a move that you're generating quite a lot of force and these holes are dual textured holes so one part of the hold has a friction side and the other part has a slippery surface so they're putting their foot on the little sliver that is textured but the majority of the surface of the hole is that slippery texture so they are not working with a lot they have to be so precise and to be precise and generate that much power it's a really hard thing to do absolutely and you're also not forgetting that you're on some very small crimps at this point so if you kind of over generate uh then you run the risk of just popping that hand up while you're trying to put all of your efforts into that one move but this is what they train for so she'll correct this mistake i'm sure she knows what it feels like on that foothold now when she presses down but good look at that that's a little underplaying it's a lot of strain on the fingers and honestly my forearms kind of hurt just like that stretch that's happening when you're trying to cross through on that hold like that can be a little intense let's see if she can get enough momentum and keep the foot nice she smeared a little with the right foot to kind of push her weight over a bit more but just not enough no higher than the the try before um and the foot didn't slip until she was in there and it doesn't look like it's gonna i don't think that foot's gonna hold for anyone no even our sort of taller climbers you're still going to be nice push off of the sidewall there yeah and then she was in pretty good control but you are hanging body weight off of a sloping and then lip on to a very tiny crimp that eventually you just gotta just go yeah and uh you notice here so she's um because of the long rest you are gonna see the athletes when they're looking hunting for tops they're gonna pop back up on the wall pretty quick so she's taking not a lot of time in between it is boulder one so she should be relatively fresh this is gonna be the last attempt though see if she can just get a little more push to the left with this finish oh just not able to hold it this is where one arm hangs actually comes yeah so she's going to go for it that's going to go forward it's a quick climbing boulder i mean why not why not you got it you gotta give it all yeah and she knows that the other women have tops so she doesn't want to fall behind and so but she does have to hustle took her longer to get established enough rushing into the start i don't think she's going to get enough here but yeah smart move that's a very seasoned competitor decision she knew the clock was coming down and she couldn't get to the top of the boulder so why stress her fingers again on that cross move yeah absolutely 24 years old but has been around since uh you know in competition since uh 2010 so as a youth athlete most of the the climbers you're going to see now have come through the youth system first good just a really good look at how sloppy that last holding she's on it for almost long enough almost very close she just kind of needed to engage a little more with her shoulders yeah a little bit higher maybe right and you're not sort of dead hanging off your you know on a fully extended shoulder and you're allowed it gives you a little bit more body control but that's easy from here from where we're sitting yeah looks looks like a really quick tweak yeah really easy adjustment just a little bit higher you know hannah barber getting through that start quickly like most of the women have been doing it's honestly a pretty friendly start it is yep it uh your entrance into the boulder is enjoyable and then they slam you right here with a very aggressive cross and you have to stand on that foot and then move into this early uh razor blade crimp section moving really nicely [Applause] wow that was incredible that's great control that right hand staying on that crimp making a huge difference a flash on that boulder will put her in first right now and what she did differently was she kind of got up way higher and was able to catch it so much higher than the other women were and kind of bring that right foot in to balance her and not have to let go because she was high we avoided the swing because she's up higher you see that right hand stays on the crimp and that helps control the swing i mean it takes it out of the question completely out of the question so really really good climbing from johanna there and she will be psyched to go back into iso with a flash over the first boulder yeah a flash on final number one you kind of walk it back into secondary iso standing a little bit taller you see brook rabbit who brought a towel out to wipe her feet before getting on the boulder and also the front of the mats have a little carpeted section which is really nice you can wipe your feet there too but you want to have all of the friction so brook choosing to go with her right hand first which is not what we've seen any of the other women do so far it's definitely a little more difficult to see if she adjusts he's sort of getting established that left foot up the angles change when you go right hand first so high on her toe almost like as if she was in a ballet shoe actually that's a oh it is fluffy she's flexible and uh kind of i wonder in the middle of that move you're thinking i think i might be doing this wrong but i think i can fix it yeah i'm gonna deal with this if i i don't finish the boulder this time i'm not doing that start again is what i bet running through her mind right now i'm gonna do something i'm gonna do something a little bit different it's a great way of handling that decision but see that she just gave a little test of the zone undercling before she committed into that crimp just to just to give a little feel know what you're coming for excellent forward nicely a hallmark of her first two rounds was just wonderfully precise forward she's very comfortable in small holes now she's a little shorter so this is going to be more of a jump and i think it'd be very hard for her to actually hold with both hands on but she should be able to oh she's going to try to stand in his peanuts [Applause] that's remarkable that's the second time in this competition today standing in the t-nuts hey it's a it's a great way to climb when you are shorter you have to start to figure out ways to put yourself in better positions and that is a great way to give yourself some extra feet yeah but i would invite you the next time you're in your gym if you're able to climb in gyms right now the next time you're in the gym i invite you to go try a boulder problem uh and uh tuck your toe into a t-nut hole and see how much force you're able to generate big smile there johanna and that leaves us with natalia grossman so the finals uh it goes pretty quick especially when they're flashing boulders uh we rock rock and roll pretty quickly here so another young american 19 years old and i'll be interested to see if natalia also goes with her right hand on this first move because brook and natalya generally do preview the boulders together as they're both teammates so i wonder if that's something they discussed or maybe when brooke hopped on she all of a sudden felt like oh maybe i want to go right hand but i mean they will discuss options too you're like i think we should go left if it doesn't work maybe we go right and you you kind of wonder you know which way they're gonna choose because you still ultimately need to do what's right for your strengths and your body position in the way that you like to climb and she's like i'm gonna go right hand first i'm gonna go left hand first exactly you do that i'll see you in the middle and it looks like she did go with her left foot up left hand first gonna move into this cross section which i don't think will pose any issues no almost wanted to do an inside flag there but kind of she looks like she started to and yeah change your mind maybe i'll just use all the footholds yeah now i would say oh top is the dual text wow great footwork that is really good i mean it's insecure to stand on a dual text but you see how much easier the last move was if you commit to that risk and you know what that is something that so many of these athletes train all the time because the dual textured holds and having that slip that slippery surface is something they've gotten used to and they're forced to stand on from time to time so if you can trust your feet enough it could be worth it yeah absolutely so after the first round uh we are we're knotted up pretty good um with one two and three natalya brook and johanna all flashing the first boulder and then nijo orian and jessica just uh extra attempts for mihon orian and jessica um failing to secure the top so um kind of behind right away but still three boulders to go and the styles uh change radically across the next three boulders and if you're at all confused as to why natalya and brooke are in different positions natalya is still ahead of brooke because coming into this round she had the higher standing so since they're tied in this round right now natalia will be ahead of brook right because of count backs and we we don't like to see countbacks brought into play we like to see clear-cut uh podiums however it does reinforce how important it is you know if you just sneak into semis then you're running the risk of of uh leaving yourself short if you uh if you end up tied in the final round so i was talking to the root setters a little bit earlier and they mentioned that this boulder is hopefully one of the harder boulders of the round so it'll be really cool to see how orion attacks this one and there's some cool movement in here that i'm really excited to see yeah really cool and they were tweaking this one right down until the last possible minute so this one's got some uh fine tuning in it she's set up to do this the right way but she actually is doing not the intended beta this can still work it's just much harder having to come into that volume and use all of her biceps they actually intend a really cool dynamic stand-up move but i mean she's make sure she's making it happen yeah you uh and sometimes you read that i think i'm just going to try my way first and then i'm going to move on so interesting just managing this reach [Music] so this was i watched the root setters here that's a wonderful flash for orientation and she climbs the boulder all of the ways they didn't intend exactly yeah and i remember i actually asked i was like i wonder if they'll go from the zone straight left hand into that crimp just like she did and kind of go straight to the top and that's exactly what she decided to do and they they were seeing a different orientation but yeah and they're using beautiful climbing the women's footwork here are allowing them to climb around what the root setters have tried to force which was to go up right hand first because you needed to be a little bit lower and the swing is going to be harder to control but just being a very very precise and very very strong is a great way to overcome that exactly me hoes got [Music] she's also going to do the compression the way she's set up she could do either one but it looks like she thought about it just for half a second [Applause] up high on that catch too she has to be really careful here there's that black tape she can't get too close i mean she can go past it if she in less than a minute and you saw that reach that's a really good look at how far it is to reach up left hand to i assure you is a very bad underplaying crimp uh that's half as wide as the hold looks on your screen the women in this competition though have so much finger strength and you're really seeing it play out on these first two boulders because those crimps might be hard for other people but to them it feels comfortable and i mean you're not even seeing so much strain coming from them they're just kind of waltzing through it yeah absolutely and although it is one of the harder things you can do is reach well above your head and kind of roll into an underplane and making it look rather pedestrian which is uh it is we are i assure you this is not the first time that we are going sound uh a little bit uh not surprised but just impressed with what these finalists are gonna pull out when you think they can't do that can they and then somebody will do that there's something about competitions and adrenaline and i mean the world cup circuit is something that everybody wants to be able to compete in everybody wants to be on a podium at some point so everyone's going to fight super hard to do their best on these boulders trying to get a knee bar somewhere in there which is uh very insecure but um she did she was in it for a second and then looked like she thought it's a bad idea i think it would be really beneficial if she can figure out this little leg kick stand up betta because she's a little taller than both miho and orion and i think that they were in a better box to come into the volume and not be so um stuck the way she was so if she can figure that out i think it might be easier for her to just do this wing and stand up which sounds probably crazy yeah but if she does it you'll see how it kind of flows a little bit yeah you don't have to go super compressed to super tall to super compress to see like you get to move through much cleaner but she's gonna hold on and clearly they all talked about this because and a good example the hole they're going to with their left hand it's flat flat flat um and we're in an overhang you know we're about 10 degrees over hung there and there's no real bite so it's a just a slap and compression instead of something that you can at least lean back on there's nothing doing which makes it really really hard to hold on there yeah it only gets better when you get higher on it because you can kind of wrap your hand around it and create more a better secure position on it but it's kind of hard to reach all the way to the top and kind of land in the wrap and you gotta think that jessica maybe he's getting a bit on the i mean desperate's not the right word but she knows that she's without a top and she knows that [Applause] things have been topped i see she's on that better part of the zone hold now yeah it's almost like a jug in that orientation again choosing to go left hand first which wasn't the intended data but it's clearly working for the women choosing to skip that vertical foothold all together which in forerunning was uh making that move very difficult he was trying to purchase on that small foothold next to the big yellow zone hold and uh just sort of climbing past it really getting up on top of the yellow well it's a good thing she was able to make it happen it kind of keeps her in the running now she's still behind but at least she has one top under her belt because to be behind by two tops then you really start to get scared yeah you start to think oh my goodness everyone's going to make mistakes and i'm going to crush it out of the park see see what johanna farber does i have a feeling they're all going to just come in the way we've been seeing just because i bet they all talked about [Applause] and i mean when i was looking at the boulder it wasn't obvious to me at all that you maybe swing your leg and stand up somebody had to tell me yeah i looked at it and went oh that's kind of a gnarly compression builder i like it and i was like oh there's this footswing thing that's supposed to be easier i mean every now and then um it just uh [Music] she's really kind of fighting through oh she kind of hit too low hard to look so you see just this uh a quick recap here full bars are tops half bars are zones it tells you that with uh mihok and mi ko and orian uh city get two tops each on the first two boulders and then uh yet to climb is brooke and italia nice close-up of that volume especially from this angle it almost seems crazy to think you could hold on to something like that but when you're actually on another hold and being able to kind of compress between the two it actually feels better but i always love seeing angles like that because in your mind even as a climber you're like holding on holding on to that and it is it's always harder um on your screen or on your laptop however you're watching to get that to remember the angles of the and it's not just the angle of the wall the angle of the hole on the wall and then you add the layer of where the foot holds so where am i getting my opposition where am i getting my control from this is for all intents and purposes on this wall the steep section so you're holding on to nothing but friction on 20 degrees overhanging but i think that foothold is quite good oh she's gonna well she was gonna try to do a heel hook to do something different which after a couple tries it's a great idea to try to do something different because otherwise you're gonna just keep trying that same thing yeah great look there and you're really just sometimes it's just a bit of a prayer that's keeping you on i think i'm holding on to this we'll see how long i stay here oh she a couple of quick show i think she was three tries very quickly we're only down to a minute and a minute and 40. i mean it's worth taking a bit of a deep breath here for sure also that's a lot of friction on the skin and to have two more boulders after this after already climbing in two separate rounds i always had a skin issue so i i'm always surprised people that are that people aren't bleeding at this moment and i think if you're if you're new to competition climbing you might be surprised that all the rounds are not on separate days you don't do qualifiers one day semi's one day and finals the next um and it's just a it's a an adaptation that's been made to have centers and finals on the same day and that actually is conditioned for that very specifically so they are feeling this morning most definitely and she's really not in the best position there i feel like she's really low it's a great time to try something different even just kind of get a little higher and not have to see this sort of way she's rolling into her shoulder that's hard to do once you've stuck it she just didn't look at her skin she's like oh i can't keep doing this it's like sandpaper i'm burning through i'm getting see through fingers and so now the playing field's leveled a little bit between jessie and johanna both with one top if you just join us we are just on the center folder of the women's final here in salt lake city brooke rabatu coming out uh following her with natalia grossman so we're on boulder number two of four here in salt lake city on this beautiful uh outdoor venue it is uh it's really cool here and it allows for a really big crowd there are a lot of people here watching this world cup um and excited to have it in salt lake city it was really nice to see a crowd again since we haven't seen them in a while brooke already being very dynamic on this boulder which would make me think maybe she will do the stand-up foot swing she kind of wound it up but decisions she's like you know what i'm just strong yeah yeah and her size should fit in the box but a nice tow hook very close volume to get into the zone and now the rest should be pretty easy for her with the campus chalk up chocolate okay lots of peanuts to choose from [Music] [Applause] you can see in the body language the moment they become comfortable enough to know that they can just do almost whatever they want and that was that moments like i'm not even going to use the yellow hole i'm just going to go bam little wind up a little swing big smile it is always nice when you're going to a jug finish uh some sometimes boulders have top folds that are terrible so when you have a joke you kind of have to take that opportunity because it doesn't happen very often and they made that worse sort of by a number of degrees while we were watching them tweak this boulder they were like let's make the last move harder uh and turned it probably 20 or 30 degrees to be you know a little slidier but not for that not enough though not enough they're just too good yeah you didn't take in the the brook factor see if natalia can get a flash here as well follow suit of your teammate brook rabbits [Applause] most likely gonna come into this press here or i guess like hook is what we kind of pinky on top first and then slowly move it around to enable yourself to stand up a little bit taller and she's also going to take an extra minute here the top of that hole as you said is it's quite good when you get on it but we're going to get a look at the intended beta the right hand which now just forces you to have to go to this screw-on at the top and then flip here so it's extra movement maybe more secure the only person who knows is broken italian talk about how easy they thought that holder was but that is a a really really confident flash from natalia grossman wow i mean i'm honestly a little stunned at how many flashes we just had on this boulder it's gonna make the next two boulders extremely important to be efficient on and make sure you can walk away with the top but really nice climbing from natalia grossman and the other thing is you know coming out and knowing someone else just at the boulder so quickly just adds that extra bit of pressure and so it's not just impressive the climbing here but just the mental fortitude to be able to stay relaxed and not overthink what's happening and just execute yeah so natalia and brooke knotted up two tops and two attempts a couple of flashes might one attempt behind tied with orian at the same of two two and three and then uh jessica still in the hunt joanna's still in the hunt but getting farther away as we run out of boulders [Music] but we still don't know how they're gonna do on the next one so it's anybody's game still right you sort of we know that style matters but when you have a couple of climbers who are climbing everything so well you kind of it feels like a done deal you feel i don't see a scenario in which you know these women don't come out and crush these last two boulders but stranger things have happened and it's always worth watching that's why they make them come up and climb instead of just sort of thing i think i would have sent all four can i take the win exactly they have to prove it first yeah um on the other side though they have already seen what's coming next so at least they have an idea of whether the next boulder might suit them i mean obviously from the ground you can't always tell if a boulder is going to suit you but you have an idea of if it's something that you might like or is more in your style yeah light is sometimes a strong word something you can handle i don't like the boulder but i can handle it i like the term handle yeah often times you can climb a boulder in a competition in the whole way think oh my gosh i hate this i just need to finish it so that i don't have to start it over again i had a chat with fannie juber yesterday and i said what did you think of the anglo school you know i'm very good at slime i like slab but i'm very good at sleep i like steep too but i think if you that's most of these clamors will come and tell you yeah i mean i can absolutely climb low angle and i absolutely can climb steep angles um and it's just you just manage you deal with what you're presented with as soon as you walk out like yep i'm gonna you know squeeze and swing or i'm gonna be delicate and be on my feet and this comp has been i'm gonna be on my feet and i'm actually very we're back to back so this is back to back comps we're back in salt lake city next weekend we're adding speed into the mix as well but back-to-back bowling events most of the athletes are gonna be here for both so the root setters are gonna be maybe switching up some of their style we can't sort of feed them harder versions of the same thing so we're gonna see how deep that root setting team led by jamie cassidy uh can dig into their uh holds and ideas because they are going to have to do the same thing separate these really really strong athletes and they're learning and they're learning right now there will be more athletes coming next week as well or next weekend so there's just gonna be more stronger athletes we're gonna have a bigger field for the most part the root centers take notes uh through every round they watch the qualifiers they watch the semifinal very carefully and they start to look at who they're setting for uh and they'll be watching this final very carefully because it's gonna help them deal with their final next weekend like okay so the women are absolutely shredding boulders we are gonna turn it up a notch so we watched what was the hardest boulder in boulder three um get pretty well demolished so one thing to notice orian has already put her chalk bag on on this boulder and i was already going to talk about how this one is a lot more slow than the other slab climb they have already had they could kind of move through that one quickly whereas slow and steady is kind of the name of the game here so a smart move to put that chalk back on right away really nice foot switch very well controlled let's see the black tape on the side of the screen so they cannot reach around the eret just at the very very bottom and you see here getting established but they do not want the climbers to use this arrest and that's just helps them set in the plane they're looking for um you have to manage the wall instead of boulder without a red hug you just tell them you cannot everybody's well-versed in black tape yes and it looks like that's where it gets a little spicy you kind of have that bottom difficult or cruxy section where she had to do that quick foot switch which i really like when you have a movement that is coupled with two very different speeds so she had to move slow to get over to the handhold but then quickly switch her feet to get onto the volume and so it kind of requires more um uh awareness just of everything that's happening and just shows how well-rounded and how amazing the skills is how in the moment they are you know they're they're very very good at adapting it's almost you know when you're on the folder uh sometimes your plan goes out the window so you have to adapt and see this hold is not as good as i thought it was i better move my really quickly and it's impressive to see what could be it's always it's hard to tell but this could be something that someone is trying outside of the box where they were originally had another idea and if this has forced them to do something very very clever but as you say this boulder's theme because it's it's very careful and then the top is very powerful so you have multiple styles folded into this um just under vertical slap which is definitely perfect considering what's been happening in this round like this is where attempts are going to be lost because even though she just stuck that move perfectly before this time when she switched her foot she hit that slippery side of the dual textured hold so she just wasn't able to execute as well as the previous attempt and you when you get into precarious boulders uh where the mistake margin is very very small you now start to see people who've done a move once before uh have a tiny tiny tiny mistake and it could be even something subtle that we don't see where your hips are sitting and then you get a slip like that which puts you in a bit of a desperation mode really nicely done there to come back after that slip and solidly make that move little help nice high step so much flexibility from all of these women definitely with how gymnastics [Music] [Applause] yes i like that just right and you saw her she went quite dynamically the first time she slowed it way down the second time but kind of ran out of pull just didn't quite get there so that was the first attempt but she went pretty pop in her style and here she started to start going a lot slower oh not enough height and it was interesting to see how just even holding on to those holes just for a little longer made it so much harder because she started to kind of slip and pull away from the wall yeah there will be holes in which the extra five seconds start to take their toll on your elbow your wrist your forearm you feel that think that lactobac don't get pumped on boulder problems definitely they've been squeezing a lot and uh it matters and we talk about uh especially with a lot of core control they're very fatiguing it affects your breathing it affects your ability to kind of relax and move smoothly so she looks like she's going to do something a little bit dramatic here she kind of wow that would be really cool she kind of started in a different orientation and she was using that side wall and it sets her up to kind of have to go quickly through this lower section and i i was curious to see if anyone was going to try to go fast though it seems like going slow is probably the better decision yeah but it looks like she's gonna start it the same way again maybe a bit of a trap right the sidewall is very appealing it could work though and the same thing but uh at half speed yeah a little different instead of throwing her foot to the volume this time she tried to match on that lower foot hold but didn't create enough opposition for her to be able to hold it and the route setters were saying that that hand holder going to that big red volume is a lot worse than it looks in that position so you really kind of need some opposition to be able to hold on my favorite attempt is the third attempt after two different tries because you get a real defense sense of i did a i did b what are you going to go back to you're going back to a you go back to b you're going to go to c three you don't often see three schools of thought on the boulder in four minutes uh that's a big trap you can get into is the desperation try something different every time but uh here we get deciding that uh the slightly slower dynamic hop is going to be the way to go and she's just that left leg she's trying to control all of that barn door that sort of swing on two points as we call it you know a picture of big barn door and she's trying to control it just with her left toe and that's a lot of a lot to ask of your core i really just want her to try to go slow and static and just lean her foot over i think because oftentimes there are so many parkour type movements on slabs and vertical angles you can sometimes get stuck in this idea that it's always fast and forget that you can go slow sometimes yeah and i feel like that's exactly what's happening here because she hasn't tried one time to just lean over like we saw oriantu and i feel like if she did that she'd have no problem getting to the zone it's a trap it's she's kind of trying to get in a trap you think to yourself well this is going to be that boulder where i have to do you know a handless run across a couple of volumes instead of just approaching it with uh how would i certainly climb this boulder i mean yeah instead of being like oh that foot is huge let me stand on it and then place my other foot to the right and kind of rock over but i mean if she sticks it her oh here we go now she's thinking about it but 30 seconds it's going to be she's got to get off the sidewall so much better but it's because she keeps going to the sidewall to start if she can just not use the side she wouldn't be stuck in that trap this boulder is going to put a shake up into the at least the middle now much better position now she doesn't have time to finish probably but if she can at least get to the zone it'll keep her in the running yep and uh the zones uh it's right there but five seconds is not very long and she actually didn't use that lower part of the red at all like we saw orion do most likely due to the fact that she was pressed for time really had to move much much quicker than she would have wanted to talking to the judges about something kind of unsure what exactly is happening having some sort of conversation could be something to do with maybe i mean intense i'm not sure i mean she's smiling but doesn't look happy yeah she's smiling but most likely also very annoyed that she didn't figure out that beta ahead of time yeah she was a bit confused or i mean she could have been talking over but it would be rare to risk talking to a coach you know it's forbidden you can't get any help so you know having a half conversation with someone that you may be connected to your federation is a risk not willing to take so we have to assume she was having a conversation with the judge jesse pelts stepping on to the boulder and what seems to be the intended beta yeah and actually it is the intended beta what am i saying i talked to the root setters yeah and this will be the kind of thing you come back if you come back and watch the footage as they often do they get filmed on their attempts you kind of kick yourself going it was right there the whole time and that's what were you talking about if you were tuning in earlier to the semifinals it's not just about physical strength here it's about mental fortitude and serious problem solving and if you don't problem solve efficiently it doesn't matter who you are you can end up completely messing up on a boulder because you just were reading it wrong yeah you can get you can climb into unreversible situations that you think you can power your way out of and and not or you can get into situations where you're so flustered with i don't know what to do here you kind of in your mind you throw your hands up and i guess i'll just try a bunch of random things and see what sticks and it uh it happens even to the most seasoned competitor miho nanaka is one of the longest standing uh competitors on the circuit right now uh 20 podiums over 40 events she knows what to do to top boulders and you saw her just look out of her element on this one nice stick by jesse i like that approach i like that one too and it's cool that this section of the boulder can be done a couple different ways now she's also not using that lower section of the wreck but she was able to flip her left hand into the best part of that volume so that she was able to press up enough to [Music] she's displaying so much control over the start of that boulder uh just to be let down by i think maybe a little bit relaxed in the left foot and just starts to slide down that volume sized hold and you're in trouble when that happens yeah but she's plenty of time and has a really good method so if she just goes with exactly what she did she can be a little more efficient and cognizant of her foot placement and you see here just uh when you're looking at the results with a top here you'll see jessica move ahead of me because of her establishment of that zone so if she gets a top it's two tops in one extra zone and that's when it starts to matter whether you're sticking zones and miho sticking this zone would have been you know could become a turning point as we look to the last building yeah things just got a little more exciting in this final as we i mean oh the book is written everybody's flashing all the boulders and then here we are um they are working very hard when you see she has her fingers taped up as well which makes the friction a lot less sticky when you're climbing on holds like this specifically so you're gonna have to squeeze even harder to stay on looks like she's gonna choose to be done she's gonna walk away with a minute and then maybe that's a skin decision maybe it's uh wow if i try this again i'm not gonna get any farther i'm happy with my zone i'm gonna move on she does have to move kind of slow on this one and so 40-ish seconds left would be pretty close and she does have one more boulder which she's seen that looks like a very powerful boulder so i think it's a really good decision to actually walk away at that time could really shuffle things here with a top and it's it's an interesting folder because ahead of time i would have thought oh maybe this specific person would do something on it but now i've already been completely shocked so like honestly i have no idea because it's just it's whether or not you read it right and um but like very very um immensely important to read it right on this one yeah and we start to throw the predictions out the window when you have a boulder that has options and insecurity and easy slips where people look like they're climbing towards the top and then a half a second you're on the mat before you even know what happens sometimes and that's not to say that they can't all do it i think they can all do this boulder it's just can you figure out this tricky beta and insecure body positions in four minutes [Applause] and yet kind of another version of that is both hands uh bringing that left hand over really messes with your kind of hip angle but it feels secure to get two hands on there but it really changes how far away from the wall you are yeah it creates that bar indoor feeling so just imagine a barn door swinging that is what it would look like and feel like man even establishing here is awkward and that makes sense why miho kept going to the sidewalk because then you're in a better position but then you're not in the right position to continue in the boulder and it's uh if you sort of start a boulder going the wrong way because it allows you to start the boulder but doesn't allow you to continue the boulder you're trapped feels like a good idea at the time and uh turns into a pretty significant trap but back in control here a little more careful see that concentration on her face still going with the left hand though see if she can just hold [Applause] yeah absolutely very subtle but very important you see this perch this is all about that one foot of confidence to work on your one leg step ups pistol squats when you go back get your pistol squats going you never know when it's going to be the most important thing let's see what johanna has here seeming to be the most difficult move on this boulder kind of that tricky speed aspect of getting high enough and fast enough to get to that pinch but not too high or too fast she was just she was on it but low i think very low and her hips were falling out that whole time she was coming up to it she just kind of starts to fall out and really trying to search for any way to like scum up the wall as she's dragging her foot on the wall and just starts those hips start to go and there's just no way and there's no the left hand is not keeping you on if you start to swing out uh you're not gonna recover with that left hand it's uh it's really really bad it's good on the angle you're starting at but as soon as you climb past it it becomes a bit of a an afterthought it's not going to be good enough to keep you from missing and recovering this is uh this is going to be it 21 seconds to go i mean she must think that she's got a legitimate crack at the top [Applause] and she probably feels good enough to keep going as well just a little too fast there not going to make it happen but really great climbing great adaptability specifically from ohana fiber i really love the one foot switch where she took her hand off for just a second that was a really nice moment yeah and it looks like it's a moment of i'm falling but it's actually by design to just just make those subtle adjustments to how you're moving on the wall i like this too that just a little comfortable palm just rushed it a little bit the palm wasn't in the right place whereas the time she tried before it was in a much better position but rushing it made it kind of slip out of that hole brook rabbit two smart taking a second to brush the shoe rubber off those foot holds specifically you notice she didn't even think about the handhold no it didn't even look at them oh this is all on my feet let me take a second to brush trying to find friction wherever it might be hiding you can tell just by the way she was looking at the foothold to the right that she was going to be doing this slower method and not even think about trying to go fast here she's got this just about spanned nice thumb against the outside of the volume she might have to pop to it a little because she is a little shorter very nicely done great coordination that foot switch is not easy not at all especially coming from that position she was in she didn't even have her hand on the good part of the volume nicely into the bonus so are we going to see somebody stick this pinch what is the question brooke might answer for us it's hard to tell even how bad or good the pinches because we haven't seen anyone get another purchase on it yep so i don't even know if like if you did jump and just squeeze so hard if it would work or not she looked like she got over the top of it but was uh too shallow too shallow and on her way down almost by the time she got up there she wasn't up and confidently making that stick but a really good first burn on this board great first attempt i mean even just a flash to the zone is very important on this boulder specifically because it hasn't seen a top yet so getting that flash to the zone i mean she was higher than we've seen anybody else yet i honestly wonder if you could throw the right foot up into the zone as you catch the pinch maybe it would give you more stability i mean it would be crazy it'd be very hard crazy coordination move and definitely not what they intended but it could happen so now she's hunting tops getting that as you said the flash to zone takes a bit of the pressure off we saw a lot of the women falling in their first couple of attempts to get to the zone so it's gonna be uh a little bit of confidence and she probably knows it hasn't been talked she didn't reset and sometimes that's she might not have it perfect uh but it had good enough to make the move to the finish and she knows the finish hold is good yeah and that tension there that she had once she stuck the pinch like pulling in with the toe so well and always again nice to go to a good finish hold yeah every i think everyone's probably seen that hold in a gym before you see that right foot really squeezes and moves up with her so kind of like what i was thinking she didn't move her foot all the way up to the zone but she did hop it up enough to where she got a better position on that foothold to where she could actually use it and it could help her stay on the pinch really great climbing there yeah really really great and she's making a statement with her climbing across these rounds that is just an excellent top i mean two tries after we've watched most people fall to the zone only so now the pressure is actually a lot more intense here for natalia grossman on this one because like you were saying before the other women were taking much more time out here and so for brooke to come back quickly yeah things happened a lot faster and just ratchet up the pressure a little bit and we'll see if natalia can respond everything she's done so far in this comp has shown that she will oh unable to save it there and things just got more interesting here yes they did now she was in it a different body position so we've seen a few of the women grab that right hand and then try to use the left hand but on the other side where she was kind of trying to come back into the outside rim of that hold which you can kind of press against and crimp and that's what she's doing right now but it's almost better if you're gonna go to be on the other side of it or to let go and just move your feet both hands in the scoop just sort of sets you up wrong and that's much much better a really good adjustment from the first try she just want to give it a 100 i think on the first try she was a bit shy for that footsteps she i think i think the pressure a little bit it looked like she was trying to be overly cautious and that kept her from like settling into the actual body positions and the proper movement see if she can get to that pinch properly on the first go oh that that was it though i mean she was doing the right thing she was in the right body position also squeezing with that lower foot so it just needs to get a little more purchase on this small a small adjustment maybe a little bit higher on that foot maybe a little more squeeze and as you say a little bit higher on that pinch she's uh wasting no time to jump back up on this boulder she's uh that either comes from confidence or i mean you can get a little ahead of yourself when the adrenaline's flowing you think i was really close i could do it this time and uh in your head you've taken 10 or 15 seconds but you really haven't it's been five actually but this is a boulder that you could do more times and quicker because it's not super strenuous it's just very technical so if you are going to go back to back on a boulder this would be the one to do it this is a good choice and you see a little bit of an adjustment with her right foot maybe an inch or two and she was able to squeeze with their left foot on the other side too to keep it together really nice top there from natalia grossman and man i mean at this point both broken natalia are kind of running away with it i mean it's not over because there's another boulder and orion is right on their heels so but really good adjustments in those between those first tries to get up into that pinch and very confidently the next time so we are looking at brook rabbit two with three three and four attempts italia grossman one attempt behind three three and five and then we have orien as you say right behind them at two and three and then mijo within striking distance of third place for sure orianne and uh and mijo could be fighting for the third place spot here with maybe a flash from miho and uh iforian doesn't get to a top then we're gonna have a bit of a swap but uh it's still work to be done on the last boulder we are just joining us we're in salt lake city this is the women's final second stop on the 2021 ifsc boulder circuit and we are getting now into the fourth boulder so six climbers one boulder left to go orian coming out here nose must know she needs a top here to stay in the fight and this is a stark contrast to the last boulder problem we saw because this boulder is super powerful it's going to start with a huge jump which will be very exciting and it's i think it's kind of nice to go from a slower boulder into a more powerful and a quicker boulder oh that was really interesting she stepped up into that volume to then be able to kind of jump off of two feet instead of just right foot on that black volume she's brushing and then on that lower red hole that she's brushing now which is what they intended but i i really liked that i always think you have more power when you jump off of two feet like as a shorter person i feel like i'm always trying to get two people two feet on before i jump so that was extremely clever technically a little bit more difficult but if you get it right the payoff is wonderful and it's uh it's far it is not a small dinosaur it's a really big jump you'll see when you when she's in the space between the holds how far oh wow that's serious control oh no that is remarkable so awesome orianne bertone stalling and then just just just losing focus as she was winding up still needing to jump there really really really cool move you can see that angle kind of is pushing her back because that's where the angle changes a little bit so you can lose your balance pretty quickly there and she just lost it at the last second while she was staring at it and this again you'll see uh we'll probably see quite a few attempts as the fourth boulder there's nothing to save it for so this is empty the tank time go and get yourself a top so we're gonna see the most number of attempts per minute is going to be on this and as you said earlier on when the when you're only missing the first move you're not expending a ton of energy it's just going to change really nicely done a faster approach by just bringing that foot in and going right away good adaptation uh very she's gonna go he's gonna sort of get not choose the heel hook and choose to press down underneath wow this is a bit insecure at the top nice save i figured she would just step in but really nicely done by ariane moving her back up into the lead after that boulder to that boulder that was that was extremely fun to watch i loved how many different variations she tried it's always fun to see an athlete be so creative and i mean she almost lost it at the top that was great that was a really great recovery the angle is on that on that volume that her right foot is on it's uh it's it's not perfect you're not sinking a heel hook and just trusting it there's a lot of sliding that can go on there and she's just that little left foot which is that red hole critical i think to the control she showed at the top and that little foot has this tiniest bit of friction on it the rest of it is that slippery part so there's a lot of trust on that foot as well plus a lot of trust mijo's gonna do what looks like to be the antenna baited of veda just jumping off that one foot it's kind of interesting she had a little slip before she even got to explode off of the foot and she's if she wants to be i actually think that based on zone attempts zones that orianne with that quick scent might have wrapped it up over miho but see what she does here yeah because mijo didn't get the zone on any appeals i don't because she was having that conversation i have no idea what was going on with that but as it stands she doesn't have that very nice oh so we are seeing now that that jump is so much bigger if you don't step that foot in the way orion did and that was pretty ingenious of her to figure that beta out and i it center a little more straight up the boulder instead of in this when you're sort of winding up left to right you end up traveling quite a lot and as you drive across this big black volume the hole gets worse and worse so the more amazing amazing show of strength there controlling that swing with one hand similarly to how she was on the very first boulder of the final yes nicely gonna enter way up into the top hold and stepping up as this just to be sure just to be sure get that left pulled up it's not gonna get her onto the well yeah no it's not going to get her onto the podium but it's still our first finish for me yeah you want to leave the mat after your last boulder feeling like you put everything into that last couple of tries and she uh really really great stick that that was awesome she is very good at catching that completely horizontal swing such strong shoulders and fingers and she did have a shoulder injury a few years back i can't remember which shoulder it was on but she is absolutely so strong when it comes to those kind of movements jessica pilt's climbing for pride at this point there's uh no podium in her future but as we said you want to know that you came off the last boulder putting everything you have into it and every every uh bouldering world cup finish just adds to your rank overall anyway and that's what these athletes are also focusing on though i will say since the olympics are this year some of these athletes and jesse phillips is one of them who is qualified for the olympics is probably less concerned about standings on the circuit this year as a because she has to focus on the olympics yeah and it's the timing that goes into your training and where does this come fit into the profile and is it you know what is it giving you in terms of that step towards the olympic event um she'll be one of the climbers we see next week uh doing speed uh for the same reason that you want to get as many speed comps as you can and this will be the first speed event held in north america on the world cup circuit next weekend so i invite you to come back and hang out with us next weekend you'll see some wonderful speed climbing from a good portion of these athletes jessica pills winding up she's stuck in the spring yeah she's a little bit closer but she's not getting that push to get high enough to really get over the top and hang on to that crimp it's uh it's a hard adjustment to make because you're you just have to put more risk into the effort and the the more you swing and the harder you push the more you run the risk of missing the foothold yeah and you know mijo was doing it this way as well but i i almost wonder if just starting like she's about to try right now would actually give you more well she decided not to but i wonder if you just started in that and then sunk down a little if that actually would give you a little more power um perhaps not but i'd be interested to see i would as well in a little bit of a swing just from the leg that's uh that's that's trailing that can help you generate momentum on a boulder like this when you don't want to so that first swing and you see that she knows in the air that she's traveling too far out from the wall so it's really important that you get going up um even if you've got the right height if you're traveling too far away from the wall i mean unless you've got the longest arms i've ever seen if i pull a michael jordan moment or something exactly so it's uh this is a subtle movement and now we get to see after having seen orianna and mijo really make it look um like a strong movement you're seeing jessica just traveling you know half a foot too far north south instead of and i i feel like these kind of movements uh are something that she's gotten better at over the years um especially like compared to like a few years ago i feel like this boulder would have been a lot harder for her and she wouldn't even have been that close so it's cool to see the progression over the years when athletes focus on you know some of the parts of their skills that that could be improved upon so absolutely yeah you sort of you have to go in and look at what's missing or what you can dial up and the last two tries getting closer for sure so she is making adjustments and she is going to run it down to the last attempt so much respect for trying as hard as she can as the clock winds down that was so much more power that time 20 seconds yeah we're gonna get one more why not gotta go to the end and i mean in reality the zone would be big in general right you always want to get the zone if you can't get the top but it looks like she's going to be out of town out of time not out of town no she's not she's staying in town until next week don't worry she's not going anywhere a little look at the athletes over at the kiss and cry over there let's get a little replay of jessie's attempt where she kind of pulled back a little because she knew she wasn't in the right position and her hips were too far out from the wall it's interesting to watch that she puts her foot down for that muscle memory and then backs up and puts the swing in so this is where you remember i need to it's this far away it's this angle it's very hard to do dynamic moves when you you need to look at your foot just for a second and then you need to be looking where you're going or you're not going to travel where you think you are so this is it's a complex movement very complex and very learned like over time will get better and better joanna with a little i love that sort of half hesitation she got a little second push and even that hand on the wall she's understanding where the angles are so you know learning this movement in four minutes or less it's a hallmark of the top finalists [Applause] yeah really nice it's interesting she's just bringing that foot through but not actually placing it on the volume it's kind of just scumming against the wall a little but it's giving her that extra bit of power i wonder if she will try and i i was just thinking the same thing because then she i mean she's taller than orion so i think she'd be at that zone hold pretty easily if she throws that other foot on but nope and that time she actually had a little too much push off the wall and it pushed her out away from the wall so it was a little harder to get any kind of purchase yeah a little too much punch it's just gonna wind up again make us maybe a small adjustment oh the step through is so interesting it is but it is really pushing her away like if she's gonna do that she's gonna probably have to bring that left hand on as well to be able to actually hold on a little bit better because that's a lot of swing with that little push yeah when she gets to if she sticks that hold she's going to be taking all of this with her and i i do find it interesting when you she's definitely only thinking about sticking it right hand and dangling around until she can recover she's not thinking about bringing the left up right away it is really funny because there are certain athletes who that will be their go-to to catch one-handed i i never felt that way i always i was jumping to something two hands how many limbs can i get on this hole [Applause] two hands are better than one yeah i agree that's it's an excellent way to think about it i really just want her to place her foot on the volume instead of using the wall because i think she would just be set up so much better to stick it [Music] yeah i agree with you a minute and change oh a lot closer she is also like you said before she's kind of using her hand to slow her down a little too which actually i guess she could do that right she could stick the zone and palm the wall as opposed to actually coming in with the left hand to the zone hold sort of creating friction along the way and opposition and opposition i do i appreciate how hard it is to spend four minutes in front of a crowd of this size not doing a move uh yeah that feeling makes you want to crawl under a rock sometimes right but she's doing it beautifully and she's getting closer and closer so hope she hopefully she figures it out almost brought that left hand in that time just trailing it i mean she's a little bit of a smile she had that she's got that look but wait a minute wait a minute i can do this light bulb yeah and i mean it's always so great to see the athletes enjoying themselves and this is the kind of move that is super fun and you can keep going and then the clock is going to run down on her looks like she's going to be done for the night but great climbing by johanna farber nice to see her in a final again her second final in her world cup circuit career so she has to be really happy with this weekend coming away with a smile you know it's a wry smile sometimes you you always want to get one extra top a couple good looks at her technique here that was the trailing left hand that got closest and it uh it tends to inflate your number of attempts you know when you stick a zone after that you're like oh it took me 26 27 tries to get to his own [Applause] brook rabbit to second-last women's finalists here in salt lake city i'll be curious to see if she does more of what orion did by bringing another foot up oh interesting she kind of stalled on it a little bit so these attempts are going to have consequence for her and natalya for the top step on the podium this is uh get your pen out and start ticking off boxes and all they really need to do is get the zone very similar to what orion did earlier trying to jump just from that stable position with two feet oh and even moving her right foot up higher on the volume just to get a little more height and get closer to it as you're standing vertical oh so close springy that was excellent i wonder if she got close enough that i think we might see that another time at the other time but in reality she'd be better off if she tried to do that more of a dynamic swing through with the foot and uh bring that other foot up and jump off of it i suspect you're right she's now committed to this cause and that's the tricky thing about success on moves in a competition sometimes because it feels like oh this could be it but like there could still be an easier way to do it so you don't want to get too sucked into one way but you've got a good a good look there that volume that they're jumping off there's no holds on it it does have friction but just as she was winding up her left foot just completely gave out so it is an insecure spot to stop and jump off of generating all your mo momentum from a standstill um there's only there's only so much friction you can apply between your shoes and this tiny little triangle the angles are funny she's right on the tip which helps it also makes it harder to jump off almost able to get out there so she's i almost guarantee you in the back of her mind she's thinking about natalya and this move coming up she knows the implications of sticking holds here well and when you have teammates out there too it's like you both know each other's skill set a little more than even your fellow competitors that you don't see all the time so it makes it a little bit um more in your mind as you're attempting yeah you spend so much time training with them that you you know what they're good at you know what their tendencies are and uh it makes you think just maybe a little bit too much um and this is also interesting for orianne yeah with sitting on top of the leaderboard right now as you can see on the bottom left of your screen this zone is becoming critical oh not able to get up high enough as the clock comes down a bit more i could see her possibly trying to go faster and bringing that foot in maybe desperation will be the mother of invention here and make her just move quickly overall 30 seconds i thought we were gonna see it there was super close but it looks like she's gonna stick with what what feels right oh just not able to get high enough and you know trying to jump that many times it is a very big jump this might be the last one 15 seconds good grab it too to stay in contention oh very close not able to make it happen but amazing timing from brook gravity oh well i'm just kidding she's still going just kidding now she's gonna throw it nope just kidding again till the very end to the bitter bitter and great sportsmanship from brook rabbits you heard the crouch here and she just popped back up on the mat you could give it that last try she was done i was calling it for her but nope that's how it should always be right all the way to the bitter end look at the focus there she's staring and that's about as close as she's so close on that attempt if she could have gotten her hand just a little higher to get onto the zone hold she would have been able to hold that yeah the height the extra height makes a big difference when you're coming through that dead point if you're still you're already traveling down instead of that half second where you hover and you're just high enough to get control that when you're when you're looking for dynamic movement there is a criticality to when you're grabbing that hold and uh on that volume which seems to be the best for the smaller climbers um natalya is similar in height to orion a little bit taller than brook i only know heights and feet and inches so i can't do that don't do that sorry everybody um it's not my wheelhouse yeah so keep an eye on the number of attempts to zone here this is what's gonna decide who takes the top spot on this podium uh she's got a couple to give but not very many [Music] you can hear the crowd going wild they hometown cheering so i think that's three attempts to zone it's gonna have to be this time i think getting some love from the crowd really gotta dig deep here [Applause] i mean if she's able to get a top she will walk away with the win good point no matter what she already has three boulders but the crowd's into it now they they see it coming down with two minutes left in the women's final oh kind of rushed it there and just kind of ran into the wall a little less of a smile she uh she's feeling the need for this boulder right here time to collect yourself it can be very tempting to just jump back on and jump back on and jump back on but you need to settle especially on moves like this where it is powerful and explosive and it takes two seconds and feels like it's not taking any energy she keeps rushing it just a little bit and rushing it from the start to the jump you know it's the you can be just a shade more careful right here [Applause] oh a little bit better on the placement on the feet but still not finding the proper body position to kind of have the right trajectory to the zone hole [Music] since uh i'm on the edge of my seat a little bit here because if she sticks that zone the top is well within striking distance [Applause] and now that's what she needs a minute and change to go natalia grossman with her podium position in her hands feet at this point yeah really it's more so in the feet and the legs at this point [Applause] you know that orianne you know that orianna is sitting in the chairs watching i mean she's obviously hoping for success for one of her competitors there we go oh my goodness oh man the crowd goes wild now she doesn't she shouldn't brush it because oh actually she's fine honestly that zone even though it took her 10 attempts to get to the zone doesn't matter she will still win this competition and she's gonna walk away with the top amazing amazing amazing look at that natalia grossman throwing it down here in salt lake city and taking home top spot in the second boulder event of the year an unbelievable performance really dug deep four tops in the semifinal four tops in the final natalia grossman has shown up and two weekends in a row on the podium i mean a great start to this world cup circuit for her this season and you know she is not one of the olympic qualified athletes so the the circuit is actually really important for her this year so really exciting to see her still wow so well 19 years old so much composure so much composure so we are going to get an interview with natalia grossman megan's gonna go over and uh get that sorted out and we're just going to have a good look at the smile you can see how happy she is on that stick and there it is really really good stuff i don't know that you can really accurately convey what that emotion is but you see just being so so careful [Applause] here so orian berton taking second spot so americans going 1-3 and orianne bertone from france getting in the mix i hope you are as impressed as we are with the performance that these women put down on these boulders when they come out of the gate and it looked like they were just gonna start topping all the boulders and then things got difficult on boulder three and boulder four but natalya grossman finding an extra gear on coming down to near her last attempt the clock was definitely in play and she found a way to make that jump work get herself a top and secure gold medal here in salt lake city be impressed that's what i will tell you so megan is going to go and interview natalia get a few words from her um it's gonna be an emotional interview for sure uh and then following that just you stick around with us here the men's final is uh coming up pretty much right on the heels of this so we're gonna get through the interview we're gonna then bring the men back out and we're gonna just keep rocking and rolling here so here we go look at the the total standings here for the top six natalia grossman orianne brooke mijo jessica and johanna really good example here of strong root setting creating separation through attempts and some insecure risky boulders we saw this this jump when we looked at it in when megan and i were previewing and we looked down and thought well that's going to take some people a couple of tries we are go for the interview megan is going to talk to natalia natalia huge congratulations that is a big smile very first world cup win what does it mean to you to be winning here in salt lake city in front of a home crowd it's a dream like i i'm speechless like i'm yeah it was just so special to share this moment with my best friend brooke and like this is something we've always dreamed of is to be able to make like a world cup final together and it finally happened and it's just so surreal so first gold medal great to have a crowd and heart yeah and it must have been really exciting just being so neck and neck between you and brooke the whole way through the round how did you keep your composure especially on that last boulder that was kind of forwarding you for a little bit yeah i don't know like it was really cool we were pretty neck and neck like we both did the third one and i knew it was gonna come down to the fourth so i just like tried to keep my composure and like either way if she had like flashed her or whatever like i was psyched for her it's like i didn't care if she won or like if i won i was just excited to like give it my all and i surprised myself in the last second because i felt my legs start to feel really tired but i just like rapid fired and it worked out and i mean this entire weekend you've been at the top and this is your second world cup final in a row and what do you think it is that's making you perform so well these days um i think it's my mental game i've been working a lot on like believing in myself and a lot of other tactics so it's been great to put those to use and like throughout quarantine i read like a lot of books on like mental management and so it's been cool to like have competitions again and be able to implement what i've learned well it was so exciting to watch you climb huge congratulations and we can't wait to see you next weekend as well thank you [Music] [Applause] so adam andra who won in men again a couple of weeks ago looking to secure another podium here in salt lake city that is coming up momentarily don't go far the men's fauna that hopefully going to have as much energy as the women it's tough to follow a performance like that but i'm sure the men will do everything they can to keep the excitement level nice and high second event of the year people are just getting their legs under them after quite a bit of time off i heard sean mccall talking yesterday there's definitely some rust floating around these climbers they are getting their competition legs back under them megan and i were chatting earlier talked to john muse a little bit uh earlier on this week uh he's the vp of uh sport climbing for usac about what it takes to put down a comp like this [Music] uh we're excited to to have it here in salt lake city this is the home of our national government body usa climbing so we wanted to showcase this this awesome event for the the people in salt lake city as far as getting it going it's been a lot the last couple of weeks but i think it's going to be a fantastic event for for the community i don't know if it's quantifiable at this point i can tell you we started about two weeks ago laying the infrastructure down for the event itself and then it's been months of planning in the making so [Music] [Applause] [Music] anytime you're outside you've got to build all the infrastructure for the event so starting with the the structure that's going to hold up the speed wall for example or you know putting some coverings out laying out all the power and all the internet i mean it's all from ground up we started out with just a parking lot that we're standing on right now and if now shortly we'll see what we've what we've created for everyone that'll be out here maybe 100 steps from where i'm standing right now i can be in my office sitting at my desk maybe a little bit further than that but sure it's just essentially across the street great coming out for us at usa climbing here in salt lake city so great partners with the sports the utah sports commission and our partners with industry who we who we have our office spaces with it's been a great opportunity for those those international athletes coming into town for us to utilize our training center and have them come in not only for our high performance coaching staff to just work with the other coaches see how they're training but have a space for these international athletes to come in and warm up for the world cup that they're about to compete in the next couple of weekends yeah we're excited to have all these countries represented and man to be honest back to an event after a year of hiatus it feels fantastic to actually be doing something again and we'll we'll be fortunate to actually have spectators uh whereas the first world cup we they couldn't have spectators so we're excited to again to have have some some sort of normality back in front of us [Music] we are getting ready now for the men's final the mats have been cleared the boulders have been set we are here in salt lake city for the second stop on the ifc boulder world cup 2021 in the men's final we're gonna see some first uh veggie slack 17 years old uh this would be his second world cup he finished 12th in merrigan which is an excellent showing uh to make a semi-final in your first world cup and he will come out with something to prove for sure veterans jacob schubert greg rozonick kokoro and adam will be looking to hold him off the onslaught of youth coming up in the through the world cup circuit there are a lot of strong young climbers who are out at the events and really really showing the veterans that they are here to stay and we see this on the women's side a lot a lot of the athletes being younger but it's honestly very rare to see a teenage male make it into a final the men are kind of able to hold off the younger competitors for a time so this is i mean this honestly might be at first i don't actually know i'd have to look that up a bit but yeah to see if this is the young i don't know that it's the youngest but very impressive nonetheless very impressive exciting to see so many veterans in the final and also to see two olympic qualified athletes jakob schubert and adam andra in the final here tonight and as we mentioned earlier jacob schubert an excellent combined athlete and it just has an unbelievable poise uh when he is in his element and right now he is looking like he is in his element uh i think 67 total podiums across all across all disciplines um had a fantastic 2019 season he had a first a second and a third and then missed the semi in manigan so maybe a little bit of that rust coming into play but you know that with his experience he's going to have made some adjustments and that has put him in a final here in salt lake city so uh jacob schubert always want to watch can never ignore adam andrea of course arguably the strongest climber in the world uh when you go outside so he is a sporadic competitor adam andra but when he shows up he definitely means business and looking at the boulders here for the men we got to look at them a little bit earlier and it seems like boulders that adam would definitely do well on so get one last look at natalya grossman with her gold medal top and you could see i mean when she caught that zone hold there was just instant happiness knowing that she could most likely top the boulder and not even knowing if she needed to top the boulder or not which she didn't to even win but like she was saying in the interview a dream come true she's been dreaming of this for years this is what she's been working towards i mean her entire time and career is so amazing that it's happened for her things don't always happen this way exactly exactly every now and then the dream uh lines up and when you've come competing as a youth climber you're hoping to get that longevity not all youth climbers make the transition to open climbing life happens school happens work happens lots of things need to come fall into place for a successful youth athlete to transition into a successful open career and it does definitely look like she is here to stay so we are ready to get down to it 17 years old from france first world cup final first boulder [Applause] you've got to control a little bit of nerves here you've got to think that you are fighting the butterflies and the adrenaline of coming out for your first boulder in a final let's see what kind of composure he's got although i do feel like when it is your very first world cup final and then i mean it's only his second world cup in general he doesn't really have anything to lose so it that's kind of a freeing feeling as well as he just ran across so quickly to the zone oh little slip there slip but i really i really like how he executed that run across it was so smooth and so quick actually like a lot of speed yes yeah that was really um pretty impressive out of the gate he looked like a sprinter and this is uh we were talking a little bit with the root center we talked a lot with the root center we were talking about this boulder a little bit um you know they're this comp has been a lot of rock climbing style bowl there's a lot of on your feet a lot of small holes this slab volume traverse it's really only two moves running across boulders so much as you're just getting in momentum over to that zone so enough again to steal some attempts get them thinking about whether they've got their their feet going in the right direction am i left right am i a right left how am i going to approach this well and this is the kind of move too that because it's so quick it's so easy to forget exactly what you did and i feel like that's kind of what's happening here with masjid at the moment i mean the last attempt he just did he almost stuck it again but it was completely different from his first test exactly it had a little more uh flare actually as his leg was kind of flying out behind him oh a little slick there too came out gangbusters and now just settling down maybe a little bit and just like that two minutes disappear off the clock oh nicely done that time again very different from the first attempt but looks nicely and i really like this section of the boulder i love when they set these super directional holds that kind of force you into these very awkward positions where you have to stand on your feet and this is kind of more reminiscent of something you would see outside that's top half of the boulder yeah your the transition left to right can be very difficult when you're not given the right amount of opposition or the right uh holds in the right order and obviously by design so the root setters are out here to make you wish you had a slightly different set of holes in front of you it's a good angle for this uh this slab crossing you just have to touch that one it's really bad the middle one but you're not stopping you're not slowing down on it i mean i guess we don't know 100 that someone won't suffer doesn't seem like a great idea um but we've been surprised before yes we are not all knowing but we try we're medium knowing [Applause] this is looking good here much better man great close-up of that little jib hole that he had his foot on very very very small hold not only is it i know not only is it small but it's thin too which really just adds to the whole thing yeah there's the the you have to think in all of the dimensions it doesn't stick out very far it's not very wide uh the precision uh can go up exponentially when you start combining sharp small slopey moving so quickly so quick and it's funny because now he is doing the exact same beginning he it's different from the very first attempt he had but he does this little hawk and that seems to be the one that was working the best but not enough time to actually finish this boulder i'm gonna be a little disappointed with that some climbers are very good at hiding their emotions and their body language but you see there shaking his head as he walked around the corner to secondary isolation he uh i think he'll be thinking about this for at least a few minutes back there what he could have done differently on top of this boulder he was for all intents and purposes right there but the last move is uh no gimmie definitely not a gimme and you know having those dual textured holes and them being mostly the slippery texture versus that friction texture makes it that much more difficult anzai park from slovenia tried to stop with his right hand on the drive there and i was talking to one of the forerunners earlier and he was saying that he that's how you could catch it is kind of in that elevator door position that we just saw on zayd deal with one hand on each and kind of fight the opposition and kind of lean into the wall sorry that's such a good description um we find ways to describe movement in the wild and uh yeah imagine opening the elevator doors that's exactly what's happening there and uh to continue the analogy then you get to continue moving up yep and then play back or lie back position that terrible terrible tiny foothold ooh his left foot is on the zone kind of just pressing really smart to create that opposition see if he can get his right foot up onto that jib oh holds that swing so much tension really difficult release and [Music] yes nice wonderful work really really good he'll be hunting only his second podium 23 years old he's been in enough comps but uh hasn't been able to just dial all the rounds together and finish up on top the beta here that he used for his feet was so perfect gave him the ability to kind of hop up on to that foothold which a lot of tension to hold there but he was able to hold that swing and really just push down on that foothold to make it happen that's a very composed finish on an insecure finish [Applause] another quick look at that foot hop which is a little risky but he i mean if you execute it perfectly then it's okay you see even that the heel drop uh getting as much rubber on that hold as possible instead of standing up tall and trying to point your way down good statistics here yucca schubert 64 up top in the boulders that he's arrived at uh that's a good number it's a very good number so one thing to note is that jakob has two different shoes on his feet you'll see some athletes do this adamandra does it a lot as well since they did get a chance to preview the boulders they're able to decide which shoes they want to bring out right and every climber has multiple pairs of shoes but sometimes you might want one shoe for part of the boulder and a different shoe for the other and what i'm thinking is that jakob's going with the futura because it's better for the run across but then to put his right foot on that jib later the solution will be a better bet because it's a stiffer shoe and is a little more specific and better on smaller holes so it's a good choice and this is where this is where we've come to in competition climbing is the level of detail required to remain successful or become successful gets down to i i need to wear two different shoes because this boulder uh has come two completely different styles yeah it's very precise these days bouldering competitions in general it's it's funny because you know a decade ago it wasn't so much this way right the field is deeper the talent is stronger i mean kids are starting climbing younger federations are more organized it's just a different animal these days so yeah and you need to find ways to be successful literally you need an edging shoe sometimes sometimes wow well that is a very interesting approach i'm actually surprised that he isn't quite finding the sweet spot on this run across because generally he's pretty good at this kind of coordination movement but i mean he has plenty of time you can kind of move through the top section of the boulder a little quicker he's uh trying to catch those two at the same time appears to be harder than trying to stick the left side and then recover with the right hand especially because he's not actually running across through that middle volume he's just skipping to the fire one so it makes it even harder to hold because he's having to throw his foot out and then try to hold the elevator door position with those opposing half moon climbing holes or actually i guess those are technically a volume exactly they're big enough they're big enough but a really interesting decision uh to note that he is skipping over the middle oh and that maybe last time he looked like he was gonna give it a shot and he got ahead of himself right foot just completely missed the second step i honestly think he was skipping over it too because it seems to be a little more slippery than the other two holds uh you can see those black rubber streaks already on it and that's only going to make it worse man this is definitely not the way that jakob wants to start his final as he's kind of panic climbing at the moment right yeah he's like do i have to go faster do i have to go stronger he's almost overshooting it at this point he's putting too much uh momentum and energy and he's coming in violently really and you generally don't want to throw yourself out of boulder back to back to back to back but this is the kind of movement that if you could ever do that and actually stick it it might be a move like this and he's gonna just keep just keep going i mean the zone is worth so much it is gonna have to [Applause] still looking back at it wondering what did i do wrong i don't understand and i mean with all the power that he had he could have probably just kept it going and tried to catch two hands on the last hold like we saw majdee do on his first attempt but you know now you gotta just let it go yeah can't harp on it it's all guesswork when you're sitting by yourself in secondary eyes so it's all guesswork what if i had done a would i have been successful um you can't stay in that space for too long right here for sonic 25 years old from slovenia uh i i really like watching gregor climb i think he's uh he's a wonderfully all-round well-rounded athlete strong he has a good sense of good sense of humor about it he looks like he's you know trying to keep a good emotional balance through a round it's nice because he he tries really hard and you see those emotions come out when he's trying hard he'll scream he'll like yell and then whether he tops or fails he still ends up smiling as he walks off the mats and i think that that's something that's really unique and keeps it fun he has only ever won one world cup um with four podiums beside that uh 29 years old but he does have an impressive we have these great stats here yeah and it's funny because we say has won only one world cup but you know the majority of the people will never win a world cup so it is uh an impressive thing to be able to put on your resume to win a bouldering world cup or to be on the podium multiple times even to be in finals multiple times this this game is so um sporadic or inconsistent with that time so when you can find some consistency it's so impressive and i think that we've been uh kind of tricked a bit of late watching yanya dominate competitions and you think okay the best climber just wins every time and that is absolutely not the case if you look down over a season if you can podium you know three times out of seven events you are absolutely in the running uh so for someone to win every event in a season it's almost unheard of and it it sets a different bar where you think oh everyone should just be like how come no one else is winning every confident really almost in the splits there an interesting an interesting attempt i really like that approach actually i think that's something that he could do um and i mean i kind of wanted to see if someone was going to try to do this slower anyway and gregor generally is really good on slab so he's comfortable kind of getting in funky positions and trying to make it work and i i mean i think he can make that happen yeah the just the the overall strength that he has allows him to be a little bit creative and think what can i do and still maintain contact and he really just he does understand movement a lot and very well and he's spent a lot of time actually stateside you know working with american athletes even um in different camps and clinics so i always think that if you can also be coaching a little that just helps your climbing so much more because you start to tap into some of those subtleties that maybe you're not paying as much attention to yeah i agree that the ability to look at someone else's movement and break it down and then be able to come back to them with a good explanation a level of understanding shows how well you understand movement and then it just gets reinforced in yourself and we're talking about the subtleties of fractions of degrees of where your hips might be or where your foot placement might be that introspection is very very important so yeah i agree coaching is a a big addition if you have time for it to your skill set he's getting so close it's actually crazy but it looks like he's gonna have to walk away without a zone or a top in his boulder a little frustrated for sure results so far are already getting a little hairy as the men are almost or now they're halfway oh no sorry i'm sorry more than halfway through the field we only have two more climbers to come out for this first boulder for the men's final and just a lot of attempts uh you know to get across that is uh probably not sapping energy too much but anytime you try a boulder seven or eight times uh you start to ratchet up through what do i need to do factor yeah and also it kind of lets that little bit of doubt start to creep in sometimes about you know just your climbing in general and you kind of keep that out because there's you know three more boulders to go on yeah absolutely adam andra just uh having a quick brush and a quick look and kind of as i predicted also with two different shoes on he's got a solution on his right foot and it looks like a python on his left foot not sure i'm not sponsored by las vegas [Laughter] no doubt better than mine but again the solution for the right foot is definitely key for that small small foot hold at the very top of this boulder so this is if you were going to pick something that alemandra um is i'm just going to say not good at even though that should be taken in context if you're going to pick something that adam andre is not good at it's this type of climbing he's not a regular competitor and that's what this is regular competition gives you more exposure to this kind of move obviously he's training um but he always looks a bit uncomfortable until he solves it but if he gets his mitts around the hold he rarely rarely lets go yeah i mean i think in the past few years he's definitely put more time into doing like the full world cup circuit and i mean there was even a time where he wasn't really psyched on trying to do speed but that when he came around and he's going to the olympics so he uh he's in a little bit of a different place now and nicely sticks that coordination move but yes i would say coordination is definitely of his amazing skill set not the highest on the list right if it's probably around if it's a one to ten range it's probably around like a four of his skill sets but that coordination on someone else would still be like an eight on their skill set right it's just his skill set's so incredibly high i feel that that would be a 10 maybe an 11 on my range yeah see it's hard it's hard to say when you're dealing with an athlete who is just so talented and then you see that learn the movement and then immediately replicated which is hard on a move like that there's so many variables this is really nice flexibility of the hips there it's always so fun to watch him climb moving in control a gigantic mistake that's going to be a top for madame andre so he catches up to anza who came out of the gate with a really really strong top of that boulder anamandra keeping himself in contention really nice adjustments there by adam and not wasting too much time honestly to kind of find it and the same kind of way that jakob and gregor were trying to do the boulder but they just weren't getting high enough into the left enough in order to get in that right position for the elevator doors and then nicely working his way through the top of the boulder that was a little more technical and more the kind of style that suits him a bit better than that actual coordination coordination movement but really great climbing from him you know as you say as we get a look at our last climber out on the first boulder um adam you know even a little bit slower on that traverse move so a little higher a little more in control and then slowing down so that there's not so much of a violent swing you saw from jacob uh just unable to stop on these flat flat flat holes a little breeze picking up which the climbers will probably like here it's going to cool down things it's good for them i'm shivering but this is about them so they'll definitely enjoy it kokoro looking there like he was gonna his first instinct was to match the zone and ignore uh the hold along the way which worked for majdi on his first attempt so it's definitely doable now coordination is something that poro is very good at generally as are most of the japanese athletes is definitely where they have kind of set the bar for the rest of the competitors and they have been uh dominant in the in recent years and we uh we were looking at four members of the japanese team in the semi-final and i was almost certain that we were gonna get you know three or four of them into the into the final so i was a little surprised just because they've been so consistently capable of putting multiple members of their team into final rounds so kokoda was carrying the flag as it were for the japanese team here and he was in the final in myron again a few weeks ago and he ended up fourth so just shy of the podium so i'm sure he would prefer to be on the podium here this week and that would that would have been a crazy way to catch slash hard on the shoulders once you actually had to press into the holes that way but i like kokodo's sort of um his uh danger comes from the fact that he's been in uh that's great um four of his five podiums are wins which is so impressive right oh man oh that's not what you want to happen you don't want to slip right after doing the coordination fun part yeah and then well you get to do it again that's true yeah it's exciting to get to do the coordination fun part a second time i mean it did look like he has now learned the move a bit better so he should be able to stick it more efficiently this time or like it shouldn't take him [Music] kind of figured it out oh whoa he went a little too fast sort of blew right by it almost so that's one minute let's become a factor here wonderful now he just needs to stay super present here and figure out how to stand up and get into the next one he looks so comfortable though and there's no shade going on we kind of saw everyone else be really afraid to stand on that hold he just stood on it and gets it top with 33 seconds left on the clock nicely done by kokoro fuji very nicely the ability to um you don't have time to slow your heart rate down but the ability to slow down your processing after six or seven tries at a very dynamic move and then to have to be so precise that is the skill that uh you need to train for and you need to spend a lot of time going okay now i need to be so careful and we kind of saw him do that too uh right after his second to last attempt he like was going way too fast and he just took a second just like time to reset he was able to reset and then nicely work his way through the top of the boulder and get a top which is big on this first boulder because it's really putting you in a good position to end up on the podium stay ahead of the stiff competition following you up so after one ante pahark adam andra kokoro fuji all with tops separated by attempts and then you get meiji with the zone gregor and jakob unable to secure a zone on boulder one so they will be feeling a little bit of the heat coming into the second boulder we are at the 2021 salt lake boulder world cup second event in the ifsc season just started the men's final if you're joining us a little bit late p woods here with megan martin uh we are just getting into the meat of it now second boulder we've had some excitement on the first boulder we are slowly going to work our way towards a podium on the men's half the women competed earlier wonderful wonderful wonderful showing from the american women definitely exciting for the salt lake city crowd to see two american women on the podium that hasn't happened in a long time if ever i actually don't think it's ever happened so kind of history making there now we're going from a very fast boulder to a more subtle slow technical holder as majdi is working his way through the kind of handless traverse on dual textured holds with very very little friction mostly slippery and then the zone hold is also pretty terrible a really good look at the careful footwork here all on your feet which as we mentioned a little bit earlier has been a theme very nicely done well done from misty similar to what we have from the women's boulder kind of that slow to fast movement which is always exciting and keeps the athletes on their toes literally yeah you tip over for as long as you can when you make the commitment finish gnarly but so much composure from the 17 year olds for his uh second boulder final yeah that's right it's remarkable it's the second boulder he's clowned on in a final and he's showing all kinds of composure i think it's also really fun to look at his statistics personally because his semi-final is a hundred percent right now because he's been in two world champs and made two semi-finals and crushed looking to boulders up his first top keep that momentum going and it feels good to get a couple in a row right out of the gate doesn't it most definitely anytime you can top holders and especially early on in the round you just feel so much more confident and that you still have a chance yeah to win the moment the wind starts slipping away it's hard to keep it together and not let yourself give up a little bit yeah and you know you absolutely know that these uh two younger climbers in anze and mejdie are aware that they're in a final with jacob gregor adam and kokoro they are they are not going to be under the illusion of the amount of experience and how hard they're gonna have to work to show their stuff so the pressure is there you might come out you know you might say sitting at home of course i can beat out a mantra but when push comes to shove you mean you really do have to believe it deep down and then you have to back it up with really really strong rock climbing and that is what we've seen so far yeah the men have been really impressive all weekend i mean they always are in the field always just so incredible it's a wonder that anyone can ever be consistent because there are just so many strong men especially in the bouldering and it was it was a tough semi-final remember uh the the anzai and meiji and jacob and gregor all got in with one top so they haven't touched a lot of finish holds over their round from the semi leading here so you are you're feeling like you might be in for another beating uh so you've got to reset a bit there as well and realize that it's a new round and you can't settle on the fact that although you made a semi you're thinking that you only top one boulder that doesn't ever really leave your conscious thought of now i'm here i'm in the final but i only topped one boulder in the semi yeah it's it's a lot to handle mentally and then also being so physically fatigued and then still needing to perform on difficult boulders again makes it a little tricky absolutely on anz last attempt he got in a much better position here but kind of was moving to the zone a little too fast see if he can uh slow it down a bit again the holds he's standing on are dual textured meaning they are two different types of texture nice close up there you can see that pointy part at the end is the only part with friction the rest of it is slippery making it really difficult to get a purchase on it absolutely and then go to a very bad zone it's the combination of all of those things yeah that make the real kick to a boulder like this if if the feet are a little bit better it's not so bad that the zone hold is terrible if the zone hold is good enough that you can risk a jump to it and control the swing then it doesn't really matter that the feet aren't so bad so that combination of things is why we talk about the intelligence of the root setting crew and the level of detail they get into to be able to create boulders that will cause um insecurity doubt falls second guessing it's a it's a real real skill set i mean to be able to set and separate the best in the world that has got to be the hardest job yeah as you saw he started to fall and then almost recovered with a little quick stick there not quite enough control it's hard too because the zone hold is more there just to kind of pause on and then you kind of have to go into that jump double gas dawn next so you're not really going to hold it you're just going to kind of go for balance and then just move right out of it quickly and he almost made it happen he just wasn't high enough on the left shoulder to really reel it in and hold the swing but [Applause] i'm assuming they're going to give him the zone on that because he didn't use it to move past he just sort of tapped it on the way by and he needed that just to stay in a fighting spot i i would be surprised if they didn't give him the zone um at the end of the day control is always up to the jury president and so he could file an appeal but it looks like a live sparring like they have given him the zone which i would think is a good decision because if you use it to move to another fold used it even if you're falling off of it as you use it you have in fact um advanced your position on the boulder using that and it's not even like he was falling out from the wall he was on the next two holes and looked like he had a chance of actually holding them as well yeah absolutely exciting that will probably stick uh it's always you never know when someone's gonna appeal something and they have every right to it does it's part of the process here if your coach from uh you know one of the other federations sees something that they think they disagree with and they will launch that appeal and say go back and look at the film uh and make a decision it's sort of a an extended behind-the-scenes video replay and you uh very very careful work from black up here i really like what he did there when he crossed through everyone else was kind of crossing through in more of a fast way and he kind of turned his foot into look at this nice save huge save on what are objectively terrible holds that's a really really impressive show of strength from jacob schubert and just fight in general knowing that he didn't talk or get the zone on the first hole you know who's just holding on for dear life because he knows a flash wow this is so big that is a really really big comeback from the disappointing first boulder jack of shubert absolutely showing you why he has been so successful for so long boulder number one that's in the past he came out on this boulder look at this the way he saves the cross through great footwork and then just watch the save as the feet come off moving past the zone so much finger strength but he's only got three fingers on the bottom hand and his shoulder drops so much too to pull it back up that's when one arm training comes in handy wow that's i'm impressed that's a very very impressive stick from adam schubert and he will go back into iso being uh very happy a little burst of adrenaline wait a minute i am still very very good at this and still in the running for the podium yep just like that when you're when you're dealing with a round you know much like we saw in the men's semi-final where one or two tops is going to swing a major podium implications then you've got to get everyone has to matter even if you haven't topped three boulders you have to approach the fourth boulder as though that top is going to get you in a position to have a better standing and it's not easy to do but it's something that you absolutely have to be able to dial into looks like gregor is finding a nice little crack in the wall that hasn't been taped over or anything so that means he can kind of use it i mean it's so small he can't really like hold it but he's using it with his thumb as more of a balance point to kind of inch his way over a little slower and that's another thing that a seasoned competitor will do they'll look at every aspect of what the boulder has to offer including the wall itself and see if there's any edge that they could possibly have i've uh when it was gray in the rules a number of years ago i've seen uh climbers step on the zone and start markings oh yeah that was only a valid for a second that was quickly quickly taken away we don't have to black tape up yet so they will look for every advantage great balance here from greg now it's about slow and strong in a much better position now great look at how shiny the dual texture is even though it's on your palm [Applause] really catches that left hand high there's a little jib screwed onto that hole that is now acting as a volume because it's got a screw on on it and he caught it so high really engaging the shoulder [Applause] just making sure it's going to be safe playing it safe here yes big smile yeah just when you thought he was going to do a you know the high match with the low feet which can be risky uh he's he stepped right up in and thought sometimes i mean an extra few seconds and extra movement might seem like a bad idea like just match but uh you don't want to put things to chance when you are not sure what's going to happen and this ended up being an excellent decision from gregor he's so comfortable on slab so for him it's smarter to you know make sure he can secure the finish rather than take that risk other climbers maybe wouldn't be as comfortable doing that and they would just kind of go for the match also they wouldn't maybe think to palm down like that you know that's that's something that was very intuitive to be like okay well if i put a palm down now i have better opposition and i can also now bring my foot up and easily match it easily match the finish and there is a tendency to rush your way to both hands on the last hole then we've seen even you know in this competition this weekend people in a in an attempt to match have blown themselves off of a finish just by moving a little bit too quickly a little bit too out of caution that keeps him fighting and adam nice and slowly moving into the that extra height yeah it really did he was able to catch it much higher and just be above it naturally and although this is going to appear bunchy uh kind of compressed for him he's his mobility is so good that it's not an issue to get that foot up high and it's so cool to watch him because he is a taller and linkier climber but because of his mobility he he sometimes will climb like a shorter climber like he didn't need to get his foot that high but it's just comfortable for him and more secure and because he has such great mobility he can do that and it's not a big deal i mean like that would you say not even a problem he's just like oh i'm just gonna move it up really quick super easy intuitively his right foot came to the gym and that is a really really really dramatic example of awareness in space you're you're swinging across he's looking up and his right foot finds that jib a long way away that kind of you know those little details if you want to know why alemandra is better than uh most other climbers it's these kinds of things that perception and memory of where holds are is you don't need it on every boulder but when you need it and it's there for you it can be a difference man i mean climbing is so much about subtleties uh in progression especially with people's climbing and their overall skill set and how well-rounded they are so if you can master all the subtleties you're going to be hard to beat poker on his flash attempt his first attempt as we said looking a little uncomfortable a little uncomfortable he's reaching he's kind of keeping his center of mass to the right maybe more than he should but very carefully those shoes actually i don't know what shoe that is but they look a little soft which can make it a little harder to stand on those footholds like that but he's working through i mean you can see how arched his foot is but making it happen he's got to stay hot and moving quickly to stay with adam andre so this is gonna be important wow that slip was uh a long one and it's still kind of happening as he fights through seeing if he can find the [Music] [Applause] oh now though this boulder is not as strenuous as some of the others moves like that we're in such an awkward position and you're fighting so hard especially because you know that was his flash attempt and you just kind of freak out internally that zaps your energy so much more than you think it does yes absolutely and something we alluded to and talked about in earlier rounds is the core effort saps you all around right it's not just doesn't just have to be your fingers that get tired or your calves to get tired when you are fighting with every limb you just get over all fatigued and attempts start to matter so if you've got a you know you've got to climb again and you see you gave a decent amount of time in between attempts it's a slow climbing boulder and you know the most we're gonna see is i mean maybe three depending on when more confidence moving through this section this time but it's also a little scarier because the clock is counting down and like you said the lower part of this boulder takes a lot more time so you don't want to have to get on and again another slip but now looking a little more comfortable with his uh hand choices here and maybe he'll stay it's the high foot and he's gonna go back up this this method is i think the riskiest way to top this boulder [Applause] there's yeah the risk is gone you don't have to be so scared patting his heart as uh he experienced some fear there trying to get through that boulder problem nicely done really good fight and composure by kokoro fuji and interesting to note that it took him 40 seconds from being past the zone he was here at one minute and then this took a while and but as you say excellent composure to not lose and look how quickly that right hand comes up and the smile is immediate nicely done a little bit of relief a little bit of excitement it's a good combination of emotions and just like that two boulders down adam andra on top based on attempts six attempts over kokoro fuji with nine attempts to his two tops and then uh it's a mix down here meshti with one anze with one duck up with one and gregor with one top so with two boulders to go we could see a lot of movement in the bottom half of the table yeah and the next two boulders coming up one of them is very tricky and it'll be interesting to see if the men are able to read what the setters intended immediately so that could be a place where more attempts are lost because it is a little confusing and not so straightforward and that is the next boulder men's number three is the one that's a little more tricky not so straightforward and could be the one that you know changes things a bit here especially as you start to add options um and you come out yes you've previewed yes we've talked about it but if you know you've got a few options four minutes disappears very quickly when you try one thing and then you try something else and then you have to decide no did i get it right so that definitely in boulders where you get into that greater complexity more options more holds yes there are simpler boulders that are harder of course just by nature but you can get uh you can get difficulty simply out of a lot of options even though the holds are relatively good it's funny you say that i almost feel like sometimes when you get on like warm-up climbs because they're more holds more specific to like lean climbing and you're like i'm a little lost because there's so many holes to choose from all of a sudden you have more choices and you're kind of confused and you can grab them all yeah and and so then you kind of find yourself in this weird position where you don't know what's happening even though it's a little easier just a little bit of a break on the the doing a little crowd engagement um if you have just tuned in a little bit late you are watching the men's final here in salt lake city the ifsc boulder world cup the second stop of the 2021 season i'm pete woods i'm joined by megan martin and we've been uh we've been at this uh all day and we have been treated to some excellent climbing we have seen some wonderful examples of root setting uh i'm loving the crowd that's here the energy in the in the in the building and um this is uh you know for all intensive purposes has been a really really really good semi-final and final a lot of excitement and if you didn't see the women's final you can always go back and watch it in replay it will be on the ifsc youtube channel for uh you know for the foreseeable future and if you want to see the uh two american women on top of the podium and showing the emotion that comes along with that i would absolutely suggest that you have a peek back at the women's final round boulder number three slack who is climbing well in his finals [Music] [Music] and so he isn't reading this the proper way but it's still gonna work look at this the flexibility and when you know you have that flexibility you're more tempted to do something dramatic uh instead of saying i definitely can't do that i need to find a way that doesn't involve being a hand football above my head yeah his method is correct the start was just not exactly the way they intended it but it looked really good to me and there's always i mean there's always a few there's always options so as long as you can make it work but that heel toe cam is definitely the intended way to do it you just have to work your way back around there's not a bottle going uh on the top of those but just you see that swap into those pinches so the flaring pinches they get a little bit worse as you go up and the hole is on now is a super shallow pocket hole so it's a little circle and then it's very thin it's got cool texture around it [Applause] look out guys i will admit i thought the top was gonna be a little bit harder this underpinning uh a really good room reading and then really having no problem with these pitches yeah really just squeezing them and i mean so many of the athletes have such strong fingers and that does also translate to pinch strength so i'm not really surprised that you kind of locked that section this is a boulder that i think would be interesting to see in a semi-final i think it would be a little more difficult if you didn't get a chance to preview it and discuss it with your fellow competitors absolutely you spend a lot more time working out the start uh trying to the the sequence of movements required to get you up there so andre kind of started this a little more um though he started in the way that they had relayed it to me the root centers um when messi started it he was more to the side uh and andre's starting more straight on but he's not going to campus i mean the right-handed there they've got on the start is the best hole you are ever going to get in the men's final i i almost guarantee that that is a joke by all accounts and one thing i do kind of notice more is during the preview i noticed the women kind of chat with each other a bit more than men do so i also wonder if he does know about this a little more chatty at times so maybe that's part of it i hope nobody gets upset about that but you never know kathy over here so i don't know i i mean i believe that obviously you're coming from a place a of knowledge you've been in these shoes right yeah you know what it's like to to be around other elite athletes who are right on that balance of i can be happy for my competition when they climb well even though i absolutely want to win every time i come out it's a skill in and of itself but the sportsman's trip and climbing is unlike any other sport it is so cool to see how athletes can truly support one another and be happy i mean when i interviewed natalia that was one thing she said she was so happy to just be climbing in this final with your best best friend brick wrap too and whether she wanted it's completely authentic and that's something you don't see in a lot of schools no agreed beyonce not quite solving this the clock is running down and uh at least a zone here is going to be important to keep him in the fight you're thinking at this point you've got everyone ahead of you with two tops what's really interesting is that he hasn't seen the heel token because he actually did use a heel cocaine earlier today on one of the semi-final folders i think it was that's number three with those those dishes that they had [Applause] to just get a little higher after almost work but yeah you would think that having done that motion earlier you might think about it but it's easy to get tunnel vision in four minutes and be strong and it's easy to just try and be surprised to be strong yeah exactly i mean i feel like people are always wondering oh what's the grade of world cup uh boulders and the thing is like they're often not that hard right it's just that they're tricky and like can you i mean they're hard obviously but it's not like he's climbing right now no exactly it's because you're on you know you're on the clock and because you're on all of the other stresses the boulders don't have to be i mean they're not even b12 no i mean maybe the 11 for the men at the moment something like that if you do find every now and then people post about you know sending finals boulders from a cop in their home gym but it took them an entire session like i taught man's three took you three hours yeah you had a lot of help try it in four minutes without getting to try it that's that says it all that sort of the body language of i mean i don't know i tried i tried as hard as i could but you can try everything and lucky for him he did have the first board which not all of the men did talk so he's not completely out of the game but to have that boulder done as well would have put him in a much better position moving forward in the round yeah i mean this this men's final is kind of all over the place at this moment people are moving a lot which i always think is far more exciting yes i agree because you just never know who's gonna win yeah i mean it's fun to see somebody flash four boulders because it's just an amazing show of ability but i quite like uh the the chess that needs to go on this isn't interesting the crowd providing feedback is uh something that occasionally happens so you stand one way and it's dead quiet and then yep turned around and the crowd just immediately started cheering yeah got super loud [Applause] it's creating opposition but the cam itself is a piece of equipment so it's a fun little technical term that has been created [Applause] as opposed to the [Applause] which is kind of cool right the boulder is just tricky enough that if you don't figure out that beginning section you will likely not finish the problem so that creates that separation between the men in this round this is uh make no mistake although he walks out of this pretty smoothly that is a lot of strain um a little bit too easy maybe but i think you earned it right yeah yeah you did great job yuck schubert to gregor reading it right off of the back as he tries to wedge his foot into that field okay i'm going with two of them actually so maybe overdoing a little bit just needs to dial it back and put one foot in there and i think he'll be able to get out of that at a slightly different uh body position though from yakov he is entirely facing out so he's going to take a little more rotation to get around if he does manage to get up there and make it stick yeah and that was the way they wanted it was starting pacing in and then bringing your foot up i cuz i walked up to and i immediately turned around and they were like no because this is what your mind tells you but it does seem like this is what's working better yeah it is a great expression [Applause] hold on recover and change his body position and just not enough going on there's no feet down there to help you so you're swinging around uh campus that just immediately puts a strain on on your shoulders and forearms he's quickly taking a look at that little blue hole to the right seeing if that's something he could use in some way little does he know it's just kind of keeping him from moving what was a little bit [Applause] a bit better i mean honestly jacob did have a or not a harder time but he was struggling to get the foot in there as well but once he got in and it was fine and i think gavin's a little taller than gregor and i think that might be one of the reasons why he's not able to get as high and he doesn't have it as deep he kind of it's almost acting as a toe catch at this point and he's not really forcing the heel in far enough uh which as you saw with jakob his body language immediately changed when the heel was going to stick he just you just uncoiled and reached up so gregor here is not finding the right amount of purchase to be comfortable enough to continue the movement into the rest of the building does still have plenty of time since the top of this boulder is not so difficult as long as it's present [Music] and he probably can tell that from the bottom i mean looking at those pinches there pretty chill to watch if you like pinching you're pretty psyched to see them lisa look at the clock for a second he was going to walk away i know and then i was like no way is that happening he looked disappointed that there was a minute left oh there's a minute i'd probably have to try this boulder again [Applause] [Music] much better he was fighting the slide you could see the foot sliding as he was reaching up but he's unlocked that little difference and as we say getting to zones is important just slipping out of it at the end unfortunately not going to make it happen but really great fight for gregor put them in a really rough spot for sure [Music] um if you didn't know there is an ifsc app that has live scoring on it so if you want to stay up to date with what's going on uh you want to download the ifsc uh wc world cup series app uh and then you just navigate through to the event and uh very very quickly all that the judges use ipads uh after many years now so the scores are getting uh put into the system almost uh immediately to when the attempts come up we're tech savvy over here yeah we're getting it right futuristic now this is a position where adam is generally very comfortable getting upside down leading with his feet trusting his feet wedging himself into situations as he quickly gets in there i feel like i've seen him do this exact move on the roof exactly right and specifically the heel on his shoe is more of a ball so it's going to wedge in there very nicely as it's not i mean it looks like it's glued in there for a second right he wasn't going anywhere so really nice execution here and again with that quick flexibility he's like resets the heel there yeah so smart [Applause] his knowledge of how his own shape works is incredible very very very remarkable he kind of just not sloths his way up it's something like that right it's like he's sticking to the wall the entire time he's not letting there ever be a moment where he's coming away it's almost like he's velcro actually and you see him he threw that the little heel hook at first uh on the start hold he thought maybe that was going to be useful then he immediately switched feet it was just the the switch goes off in his brain and says no no no no no that needs to be my left foot just being i love the careful he doesn't need to match the volume on the way to the finish but why not i mean if you learn anything in these competitions it's that it's not over until you've matched so why take any risk as you're on your way to that top hold it's not necessary you don't want to have to spend any extra energy so that's something that the athletes definitely learn or if they don't they should learn quickly if they want to be successful in these competitions absolutely kokoro fuji here giving it a good brush he will know that alemandra did that very very quickly so uh while the top is important for him attempts remain important so he's he's going to be thinking about getting this one right you know the first first or second time and it looks like he's setting up to just be burly it could be dangerous because this will uh this will burn a lot of attempts it's it's nice though because i think that doing that move once it's kind of obvious that it's probably not the way so if you just do it one time it shouldn't zap your energy too much it's only a trouble if you know we're getting into the third to fifth tries on a powerful movement like that [Applause] it's not very far the foothold is a bit high but good and we've seen him using he's very very mobile with his feet up high so he's it's it's definitely something that's drawing in the climbers who know they can lock off they can bring that shoulder to their hand and stay in control i shouldn't be able to just straight up do this and he's gonna stay with it a little different approach looks a little better but again expanding well actually getting upside down and walking your feet up extends a lot of energy to probably an equal amount of energy but he's just trying to look around for any other thing that he might be missing i thought before he started that last attempt he had a quick look at the stars again like there's a jet somewhere [Applause] what is going on where is it what am i not doing what where is the is there a tiny black jib on this black volume you know what i mean it happens yep absolutely needs half a fingertip away yeah if he just gets a little higher he could make this happen but it's definitely i wouldn't like to see him i mean i don't know if he even he doesn't even look like he's going to give it one try so i would love to see him try here we go okay just a different approach but now hearing the crowd cheer he's definitely going to keep moving with this method it needs to get in a shade higher just needs to be able to walk in there right now it's just a toast gun gonna work here but at least he's unlocked a bit just over a minute left should be enough time to at least get to the zone easily yeah if you can get it right toe in there you saw his right hand you get squished into the side of the start hold and he was sort of you know i run out of room and he's gonna go back well he's gonna just yeah he's gonna walk just needs to throw it a bit all right oh man we're just kind of losing it there it's weird because you can get the toe and then the heel kind of gets stuck so you're gonna have to throw it a little higher so that it kind of sinks into that little wedge between those two bars yeah absolutely from the bottom you want to kind of drop it in from the top that was almost it got really close [Music] [Applause] there we go there it is [Applause] so jacob schubert after not doing the first boulder came back strong to do two and three to keep himself in a podium position uh and flop over kokoro who started one and two and was unable to do this boulder a lot riding on men's boulder 4. adam andra is going to take the win that is decided three tops i mean not necessarily not necessarily i say that just assuming he's going to send the last bowler so no it's not decided adam andra three tops mejdi two tops jakob two tops kokoro two tops all of them um close on attempts and then we have a little bit of a gap and anzai and gregor are at this point climbing to uh to see how they can finish in the other half of the field it's definitely not guaranteed but the last boulder is maybe the most straightforward bowler of the round so i think it's likely that adam would top it so it's like a crazy occurrence it would be a crazy occurrence to have everyone else top it in him but not top and then we would have an exciting uh shuffle but uh the easiest thing to do is watch the boulders play out we'll see what happens we'll watch along with you nicely done very nicely done from hd moving confidently this move here is quite powerful but it doesn't look like he's uh short on power just gonna need to really stay tight coming into the undercling and have enough power to get high up on that nice [Music] [Applause] from france really making a name for himself here at his first ever world cup final second ever world cup competition that is a really really really composed i mean how long did that folder take maybe three seconds i i don't even know that was incredible no second guessing and just an awful lot of good movement that alone is so impressive in a young athlete to be so confident like that and just trust your body and know oh this is what i'm gonna do and i'm i'm sticking to it and i'm confident in it so impressive so that puts him in uh absolute podium contention veggie child from france looking really really impressive on boulder number four nice uh jump there from anza he kind of just floated in with barely any effort there [Applause] now matching hair might be a little more difficult for him he's a little taller oh he's going to go early he could maybe keep his foot there oh he could even jump to the end possibly it looked like he thought about it but see it's a little harder because he's falling out from the wall a bit more because he's a little taller so if the biceps aren't as engaged as they were with veggies but the foot's quite high there you know and that's an old trick because high feet and bad underclings uh puts a lot of immediate pressure on your uh bicep work and it also that's not even just about how tall you are in general but you could have long arms and holding that bicep position could be a bit more difficult because your arms are so much longer and so the easier movement if your arms are shorter maybe the only one in climbing yeah maybe the only one the levers matter um you would almost always want to have long reach but every now and then short arms go a long way every now and then occasionally gotta have sub that's right so i mean it's so just like that we're on builder number four can't believe it right so we are winding towards the finish of the final here in salt lake city a few a few surprises potentially to go right now seeing what anza can do [Applause] [Music] [Applause] if he would have jumped before the second regrip i think he would have maybe had a better chance of sticking it it's funny being longer he kind of wanted to keep the foot but the minute he took it off it made it so much easier to actually come into the double undercling there and i feel here the footswitch would go a long way but he doesn't look comfortable enough to uh to move that left foot i feel like a foot switch in that position can be so scary especially when you're on underclings and i believe that's another dual texture foot yeah it's so small so it seems like kind of a risky thing to do especially when it's he's pretty close to the finish hole right yeah he's looking at it and thinking i can generate force from here it's just a little extra swing i'll manage it and it's just coming up i mean the tiniest bit short on the amount of push he needs to get to get to this last and i wonder if you can see the hand print on the left side of the arrest that could be a great indicator that you could just jump and then come in with your left hand with that off to create that opposition which was really key for manchester united it's uh being aware of your surroundings so this is going to be his last attempt i think fighting hard needs to commit got almost deep enough and anzai is going to say thank you very much to the salt lake city crowd 20 seconds to go but i don't think he thinks he's got enough gas in the tank so uh a really really really good showing from anz a fairly young competitor still that's 23. which i mean it's funny when you have 16 and 17 year olds yeah 23 seems old at the time but it's really not it's quite young still young really great effort there beyonce and every athlete's always excited when they make the final and have a chance at the podium and he fought hard today for today and tonight it was great to watch him play jacob schubert looking very determined just that look on his face when he was uh looking out across the crowd i really like that move it creates such a like fun looking float yeah it happens it's really pretty it's so pretty i agree with you firing through this yeah this is as you say it's the simplest boulder just requires some squeeze you're gonna bring that left hand yep yep nicely done flash for you a wonderful flash from jacob schubert and he is building the crowd up that is a fantastic and very very important it's gonna we're not gonna know who's on the podium till the very end here everyone is so close which i love to see it really keeps it exciting also just the awkward flowing and congratulating messi it's so fun to see these older competitors be so supportive and almost mentor the younger competitors right like it's so so cool to see that yeah he came straight over to him yeah a big smile right away like oh my gosh you're spinally you're crushing it that's so awesome it is you know that feels good as the young climber to not to be included right away yeah you know people you look up to for so long supporting you as well awesome climbing from the operation yeah yeah schubert i just tried to create this yogurt yogurt flavor i was trying to uh combine first and last name together [Applause] [Music] he's climbing for uh a lot of pride you know he wants to top [Applause] [Music] he's short of a zone to be able to move up yep as you can see there yep yep not enough though no top on the first tough on the second nothing on the third so those two gaps uh are sucked into the lower numbers looking at the attempts and you think oh maybe just kidding yeah not enough boxes filled so what do you see halfway field what you see on your screen there is the representation of zones and tops but without the number of attempts so that's just giving you the first look half boxes or zones all boxes are tops and the main reason for showing it this way is because zones tops and cylinders are the most important because it goes tops zones attempts to top the text zone that's how the breakdown is so it's not necessary to show it in this graphic with all of the attempts it's cleaner to just see it with these boxes filled and then you want to get down and figure out why there's a difference between uh jacob and you know the other someone else with three tops when you look you know currently out of andre it's the it's uh the number of attempts is what's making that difference every time you see the same number of boxes of the same size that means you gotta check those you gotta check the attempts wow i think we just made that so much easier to understand we might have i actually got first time ever so greg took a long rest which is smart because he's going to want to walk away from this round doing this boulder and he knows he can and it's pretty straightforward so you want to have all the energy to hold this swing at the end because that's the most difficult [Applause] doesn't see that he needs the opposition there he thinks he can just hold it hold the pinch and it's a i mean it's a wide and he might be able to uh if this wasn't the last boulder in the realm perhaps and you know we see these world cup athletes do amazing things all the time and they are all so strong so he might think that that's how his fellow competitors did it ahead of time uh so it's easy to get sucked into just thinking i'm gonna be so strong and just hold it just hold it i don't need it i don't need anything else i'm gonna hold the swing with one hand and just pinch for dear life this gigantic uh flaring pinch that gets wider the farther back you go now you can't even like really throw your left hand up to match either because you'll probably hit the slippery part of the hole anyway exactly so quick [Applause] quickly trying to stay as efficient as possible screaming with all his might to fight through the fatigue to do this boulder oh bruh finally figured it out but just a little too low that time as he tried to jump to the finish hole if you figured that out on the first try you probably would have just watched it but so he'll be disappointed but every finals uh experience yeah is worth it and his uh points on the season exactly exactly so it's always always something positive to walk away with and it might take a minute yeah i take a minute to find the positive but it's it's definitely it's there eventually it'll be there can you see right away i love that a little a little thank you to the crowd showing that applause looking just a little bit excited they know the boulder he's heard that people have been doing well on it he's hearing the crowd cheer and the athlete's coming out quickly so [Music] i just don't see a scenario i know in which he doesn't do this yeah i mean it's it's just so straightforward it makes it a little difficult for there to be some kind of flip thing to happen and he's just so strong and so careful you know he's not he's not rushing he's like i'm gonna do this [Applause] three no matter how many times you win uh it never gets boring i mean i can only imagine never never had [Applause] to just keep that energy up and to be excited uh for every appearance in a comp out of andre really is a great ambassador for our sport he really is and i mean all these athletes you know the climbing community in general is just such a supportive community and it's nice to see that it continues to stay that way even though it gets bigger and bigger so these are the these are these are the examples for how to be good very good role models and good sports in general the spotlight now on kokoro fuji this is uh there are implications here um it's tricky when you start looking at the math but a top here makes third place exciting it does it's always exciting when things can change at any moment and again you know finishing with this boulder that is so straightforward it's likely that kokoro will be able to you know flash it if he has just read the ending of this boulder properly [Applause] putting in a great performance here [Applause] [Music] a little bit too just too casual a little yeah a little too casual which is a bit of a trap to fall into when you when you know you've got reserves of power to spare and you think i'm just going to gently hop to this and then you just barely underestimated how far you need to go back up quickly before we could show you a nice little replay just kind of have a lie down for a second it's always nice to have a break there's a lot of climbing here yes there is a lot of plumbing eighth holder of the day for him [Music] i can do four plus four yes that's my thing that's the path which is smart because he knows he can do this and he needs to just conserve his energy for the final move on this boulder problem and you know actually coming in on this undercling is a little strenuous as well but i think the last move is where all the power is really coming from here we go fuji take us home oh you know he's unsure because of the swing and he doesn't see the red he's trying to go a little slower so that it is a little more controlled because he knows that swing is going to be hard to hold but you can't go that slow because otherwise you're not up on the pinch enough yeah you've got to get uh you still got to get high enough and far enough and then control the swing worry about that when you get there don't try to underestimate or sort of understand the boulder just by trying to keep it in control you still got to get high you still got to get over there so he's an adjustment to make you wonder you know in your head you're thinking yes i still want to fight but you're running out of a little bit of that real adrenaline momentum of i can make the adjustment i can stick this boulder although i mean he really should yeah try really hard because if he does top it he could end up on the podium and since he was fourth left at the last event it would be nice to finish on the podium here but two back to back [Music] [Applause] [Music] incredible climbing and just control of movement from kokoro fuji resilience a resilient last episode absolutely and just a big smile from him down to the wire really really working hard to get that last top covered off so kokoro fuji fighting to keep fourth place and just the strength it takes to stick that when you saw so many slip that is a really really really good stick from kokoro fuji here is your presentation in third place jacob schubert three tops in second place amazing performance from the young frenchman meghdi three tops and a bonus to stay ahead of jacob schubert [Applause] and with back-to-back gold medal performances adam andra topping all four men's boulders after topping all of the semi-finals and all of the qualification boulders there is your podium for the men out of andra meiji shock really really good climbing really really good boulders that's going to do it for the final for the first weekend of our back-to-back weekends here in salt lake remember we are still here next week we have a boulder event and a speed event so some of the speed athletes will be coming into town to climb in the speed event next weekend and most of the boulderers are sticking around especially those that are looking into the combined results and those that are looking to move into the olympics which are coming up very very quickly adam andre one of those athletes and jakob schubert so we're gonna see them next weekend great performances all around we saw quite a bit of shuffling in the middle uh enough to keep it interesting variance in who was doing which boulders and where those zones were coming from but when the dust settles adam andra is very very difficult to beat kokodo fuji with back to back fourth place finishes which as megan was saying is nothing to complain about unless you're trying to get hardware and then you're just a little bit disappointed that you were that close to getting a medal in the world cup circuit doesn't matter how many times these guys and these women compete every podium is a worthy worthy experience so we're setting up to do the podium results you know the presentation of the flowers and now we're going to go to megan who's going to talk with adam andra your men's champion well something was definitely very unexpected but most importantly it's just amazing to climb in the front of the huge crowd after two years feels surreal and as you can see the crowd is very happy to be here and be able to watch you climb now you have another objective this year which is the olympics so how does it feel with your training and being able to compete like this two weekends in a row and knowing that you have the biggest competition of your life coming up soon um i mean i kind of tried to stay on the ground because i know that especially in terms of pressure this is still kind of like a children's game you know in tokyo it will be way more stressful it will be way more difficult also the conditions will are just amazing today and tokyo will be hot and humid so it's a nice sign but still i know that i still have a lot of things to improve so i'll keep training and we'll see well it was so exciting to watch you climb here and i can't wait to see you next weekend as well and best of luck to you thank you [Applause] great to hear from adam andra as he continues his dominance on the world cup circuit a reminder as we said we are back next weekend here in salt lake climbing back to back on friday we're going to run through the speed in one day so we go qualifiers all the way through to finals next friday the 28th just hear one last look at your leaderboard anamandra mejdy jakob kokoro fuji anzai and then gregor vazonik fishing out in sixth place next saturday we're gonna have the qualification for the boulder event and then on sunday we're gonna run semis and finals so just one day different from this weekend and that's with the addition of the speed event on friday and if you have not watched a lot of speed climbing i absolutely recommend it it is an exciting exciting exciting event a recap of your women's final natalia grossman home town win four tops wonderful wonderful performance orian berton from france three tops four zones getting her into second place and then brooke rabbit two the other young american woman getting three top to secure third place rounding out the women's field miho nanaka also with three tops and just coming up a couple of attempts short so seven versus four attempts so three attempts meeting the difference there for a podium for mijo fifth place jessica piltz from austria and then rounding out the women's top six johanna farber also from austria one top two zones so we are gonna do the presentation of the hardware as the sun starts to go down here in salt lake city thanks for hanging out with us really really enjoyed bringing you this event from salt lake city megan is going to make her way back it's hard to get through the crowd here uh the interview spot is on the other side of the wall but we were really really happy to bring you all of this action and hopefully keep you engaged maybe you learned something about climbing maybe you learned something about competition climbing that you didn't know before uh and you got to see some absolute top shelf performances from some of the best competition climbers in the world here in salt lake city so we're just getting set up you can see here the podiums are uh i love it the podiums are coolers from yeti coolers uh you know it's always great to see a little bit of creativity when it comes to putting a podium together and this time we're gonna get to see athletes standing on top of coolers to receive their hardware here in salt lake city a reminder if you came in a bit late or if you you know missed some of the women's or some of the men's final still available on the ifsc youtube channel it'll be up there for uh you know longer than you need so absolutely go back and re-watch get caught up with what happened go back and watch the semi-final if you're interested some really really good climbing in the semi-final as well those boulders were really really interesting a tip of the hat to the root setting crew here they did an absolutely incredible job separating out these climbers they created some wonderful boulders to put on a show for us uh they looked good they climbed well and they gave the crowd exactly what they were looking for adam andre very happy hey megan so excited it's actually so cool to see someone who's won so many times still just be so excited uh it's amazing you can just tell he loves climbing so much i was just talking to him after a little bit just wondering what his favorite boulders were and he actually said the last one was his favorite just because it had really good movement and was really enjoyable to climb which i mean it looked like it had great movement it was fun to climb so nice to hear that yeah it is nice to hear that and it's uh it's it's also kind of uh an interesting perspective to you know look back at sometimes a boulder that kicks your butt might be your favorite bulldog man i really that one took a lot of effort you know it made me dig deep i fell off a bunch of times and i persevered and that's when it's going to stick in my mind and sometimes it's the one that you just got to squeeze and float your way through and just feel good movement makes a big difference and that boulder had really really really really as you say beautiful movement and yeah uh i was just saying a tip of the hat to the root setting crew yeah they did a wonderful job this weekend and remember that when all of the rounds are counted up you have um 10 18 oh 22 boulders sounds about right that's a lot of boulder it's a lot of boulders and they're full run them they're here all week but the route setters are working early sometimes it's more than that when you have two groups for qualis but they were lucky here to only have to have the one group for both men and women qualities and i believe according to the registration we are going to have to split the qualifications next weekend so if you're not familiar if there is over a quota of 60 athletes because of the wait time in isolation and you can't just have a cop run for that long they will split the qualification into two groups so half of the field will climb on one set of boulders half the field will climb on another and then they get ranked in there and you pull the top ten from each side sometimes the boulders are of similar difficulty they try really hard but really what it's about is you compete against your own grouping exactly and the way they determine that grouping is by doing it based off of the rank on the circuit so if you don't have a rank you kind of just get scrambled at the end both they'll go rank number one on one side ranked number two three four so that they're splitting them up which i i don't know when i was competing i feel like we were always like oh like you'd always be like i'm on the hard side when it's like in reality you know it is supposed to be pretty fair in the terms that it's split up and it is it's just that sometimes there will be athletes that are a little more consistent on those lower or those uh yeah those lower ranks and so it ends up being more competitive on one side than the other and the funny thing is that you only really should be disappointed about what side you're on after it comes out not everybody climbs to their ranking on any given day so you might be on the hard side because you have the best boulderer and then end up having them have an off day and you get to wander your way into a semi-final and then there's the unranked climbers that you know are good right yes so like for example um or majdi or orion like you know in myron they wouldn't have had a ring because they've never been in a bouldering world cup before at that time but you know they came out and crushed and again crushed here so it's it's a the two group thing is always tricky it is so let's check in on the presentation here [Music] [Music] bronze medalist jacob schubert we get a good look at that a trophy that's uh probably the front mountain range i would imagine here in salt lake it's nice it kind of matches the wall yeah oh my gosh i have to cough sorry everyone but look at that that's a really a really nice looking trophy and they try and be regionally specific in a lot of places and here's your third place jacob schubert happy to be up there and after not making the semi at the last event being on the podium is going to be really great for him yeah a really big boost and again an athlete in a different training cycle because he's going to be going to the olympics so your second place finisher meghdi could not be more excited to be standing on a podium what a great way to start his oh my goodness i mean it's so incredible and then back-to-back gold medals from this man right here adam andra and i mean as you said he's so excited i love it he's jumping up and down he likes to be good at stuff and he is and there's a and that's the thing i think i feel like from yanya too always so excited and both of them are so humble it's so cool because they're such incredible athletes and have the craziest records already and they don't let that success get in the way of their ability to move in and around their fellow competitors exactly so we'll take a moment as we play the national anthem for adam [Music] andre [Music] one last look at the men's podium and we'll clear them out get the women up here for their well-deserved recognition the crowd i i'm gonna warn you in advance they're gonna be a little loud it's gonna get pretty loud here yeah if you thought it was loud when they were climbing eating and climbing like let's just wait till you have two americans on the podium yeah it's going to be exciting and i just want to put a bit of a shout out to the organizing committee here uh the event has run seamlessly lots of volunteers available everything seems to be going well delicious food trucks which is always nice but running very smoothly ifsc crew as always um getting things dialed in here in salt lake city but the local uh federation representatives have absolutely done an incredible job john muse i was saying to him earlier today you look so calm under what is a lot of chaos and he said yeah it's just uh part of his personality and he has kept things in check here this weekend in salt lake city uh steps away from the usa climbing headquarters so we are on home turf for usa climbing [Music] we are going to bring out our podium on the women's side it's already getting loud and they haven't even stood on top of those yeah yet they're just walking just a little taste for uh what's about to go down yeah and i'm sure that orianna will get uh a similar oh for sure response i mean it's funny because you have 20 year old 19 year old 16 year old 16 years old very young podium very young podium very different from the men's podium right and as we were saying experienced youth athletes but the transition is worth noting so in third place brooke rabatu i know she's smiling under there [Applause] [Music] thank you 16 years old showing incredible composure through this final and through all the rounds really yeah it's still so crazy it's only your second world cup [Applause] [Music] [Applause] incredible [Music] natalia grossman with the the win for the women here on home town turf a dream of her since she was a little girl i'm gonna cry i know that's why you i looked over at meg and i knew she's been emotional through the finals because these are her these are her people and i thought i'm just gonna see she's gonna put me on the spot yeah i love the emotion i love the emotion i think it shows the support her parents moved her from california to colorado when she i mean she just got out of high school a few years ago and she did that to train for a day like this so well deserved very exciting now the american national anthem [Music] significant [Music] one last lift of the trophies for your women's podium very very proud of their achievements here today and we get potential to repeat next weekend we gonna be back next weekend um all right so remember next week we're back in salt lake city we're staying here you can come back and join us speed is gonna go down next friday and i absolutely recommend that you check that out speed specialists are gonna come here and put up some blistering times saturday is going to be qualifications sunday is going to be the semi-final and the final if you're in the salt lake area please come out and see us yeah come down and hang out uh thanks for being with us p woods here megan martin thank you so much i really really enjoyed working through today and watching and you know enjoying climbing with you i did too it was a blast thank you so much all right thanks everybody thanks for watching and we will see you in one week's time [Music] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] you

Channel: International Federation of Sport Climbing

Views: 627,648

Rating: 4.9382048 out of 5

Keywords: Sport, Climbing, Sport Climbing, Climb, Boulder, Bouldering, Rock Climbing, Climbing Gym, IFSC, World Cup, Climbing World Cup, Meiringen Boulder, Competition Climbing, Salt Lake City, USA Climbing, Salt Lake City World Cup

Id: AXC52wxDCGg

Length: 220min 45sec (13245 seconds)

Published: Sat May 22 2021