What's Inside A Combine? How To Buy A Case IH 2366 #HowItWorks

all right this is our 23 or that's not anybody's anymore I owe this this is sold so get in here I would walk around the pry bar [Music] so the 2366 which is actually on our other channel the guy that bought it is a good friend of ours and he's actually owner of the 275 Massey that we rebuilt on the channel used to do a pile of work farms anything we know what was wrong with this he knows about it so right we didn't hide anything from him we were nice let's get into it all right so this is a 20 year old common there's a 1998 model so 22 years how many hours on basically we use combines in our area primarily for wheat and for corn so and soybean so you have a different heads on it which gathers all of the crops off of the field it goes into the combine the combine chews everything up separates the expensive parts from the knob expensive parts and then carries them in a bin and basically you truck them from there and make your mind right that's the idea yeah so start from the beginning right up here very fronts this is your feeder drum and the feeder chain now this chain is getting worn it's almost do a free replacement slats are a little bet from banging on rocks the drum is in pretty good shape if you have a lot of rocks go through this drum to be just completely hammered there's a bearing in each side this ones have been changed many times that's not a big deal change those bearings how do you tell the chains born there's a little gestures over here in the side so on the chains now you're probably running back here somewhere with that adjusting bolt so we're over 1/2 1/2 to 3/4 worn so when your chain is new your adjuster would be back here just like the tracks on an excavator the farther it slides forward the more your tracks are worn that's an indication on how good your chain is he's got about a quarter left so someone might have taken a link then put you back to here what you do on excavators of bulldozers - but not at least you know it still does the job it's not timed with anything know that Peter chain is not timed there's two sprockets back here that run it and the only way you can check those that you just stick your hand in here or cup underneath from the rock trap and yeah and you try to feel the grooves to see if they're like this or if they're I'll look at that yeah thing is riding in there those sprockets are not the easiest to change was a good indicator how I got a rock crap on this one Street jumping here like this so the rock trap is supposed to there was a little how big of a stolen would it catch it okay it likes round stones flat stones can bridge it but rocks like this it'll knock them out so once the crap comes into the feeder now this common is a rock trap on not all of them do in this area you want a rock trap so what it is is it's a big theater that pounds the crop and if it hits a rock it'll drive it down into a sump down here this is the door you'll hear it in the cab when you're Rock's going through you okay screw the crap bag you think your blows up and then nine times out of ten you open the trap the rock falls out sometimes stuck up in there or hunks of wood or you know you get well first thing you do is you shut it off and make sure absolutely everything is stopped turning cuz if you put your hand up in there and the road are still spinning you might not have a hand anymore cuz the roller the impeller is right there behind the rock trap so before you get diggin in there make sure everything is dead stop okay because once you shut it off there's a lot of motion everything is still moving so you can easy make it out of the cab and down here and have your hand up in there before everything stops spinning yeah and that's not gonna end well so hop on Instagram and check your the latest posts and take a picture say you know I got another rock so this chain here is wears out every year now the OEM is an old ring chain down there so doesn't wear out as much I've just been putting 60 heavy chain on and changing it every year it gets a lot of the crap right off yeah but it's spinning really fast and it's easy enough to change the law gained sixty IV chain this is a third of the price of that boring chain so so what does the impeller do you said the impeller is right so the impellers right here so we can we can look at that up through here this impeller it starts it gets the crop going into a circular motion to get into the rotor speeds rotor so this combine originally now if if you know anything about case combines you'll be like wow that looks a little different because where's the elephant ear so he originally had these three kind of a curved blade and what they do is they push the crop Kon out against these vanes there's vanes and here there are kind of like threads on a screw right which gets it moving and this is an update kit it's kind of like basically a good tip of an auger a lot more efficient so this would be the equivalent of going to like an a FX style rotor which all the case combines run now and if you have wore out elephant ears and you put new ones in that's ridiculous because a little bit more money you can have these and in you'll want to go buy a bigger header because it makes a world of difference these things this was the best after market update for this machine for capacity so crop is coming in here it's going around the rotor the impellers and then the veins and the coulomb got it going around and round comes in here it's gonna get pinched between the rotor and the concave which is gonna thrash out the grain grain is gonna drop through these holes onto our marker bed move that way towards cleaning system rest is going back out the back two sets of concave this combine had a small wire in our dryer small wire was for the small grain cereals large wire for corn and beans I got filler plates on the front here which will help with pods green or soy bean pods in the bin because it'll pull them up here forget a rotor a couple more cracks at it to get the beans out otherwise they just dropped her here already just still in the pod that ends up in the bin so drops on the auger bed here now this automat I have changed it's the only one I've ever changed or ever seen need changing and I don't know why but it was all busted out and more and when I change his auger bed I was convinced that is what they start with when they built the Columbine and they built the comm line around it because it's not easy to change it is a complete pain so if yours is all busted round these wells and wore-out be prepared for a good a good project the auger bed itself was on like a thousand bucks but I'm not coming to help you change it just work that way all right so once you get up here now this is more for threshing and most so this was a hundred percent newer threshing and 80 percent you're separating supposed to happen here this section here and supposed take care of the last 20% of the separating there's also different grates there's two sets of great Caesar key stocks was also slotted slotted you want for wheat and grains key stock for beans and corn they're bigger holes they're more aggressive and this just to get that last bit of grain that's trapped in that strata to fall out here because if any grain gets past here it's going out the back and on the field that's not really why we grow it we call it put it in the bin up here you got your transport vanes so they're similar to in the comb it's just veins it's just a like threads on a screw and you can adjust them to slow them down so the crop stays in here longer it's more separating or to speed them up so if you're gonna speed it up you have to start at the back so it's more like a fine thread bolt or course dribble you have to start at the back and work your way forward if you speed these ones up but not these ones you're gonna end up with fast and then slow what's you can equal plug so there's also you can set them back here to I've never really adjusted them over to concave I played with these ones a bit if you're dealing with something like soybeans you want a little more separation some other things if it's really good separating in front you just wanted to get it up the back because the more you rip it up the more small stuff you end up down here bearings from the back there we go is that like a big thing on the augers on the rotor there's one main bearing in the front of the rotor it's greasable never really had big trouble of fat and the back is held up by the rotor gearbox okay and then the augers so the augers there's bearings in the back we have two actually get in the back to see and little gears you can see he's a good little war there's wood blocks in the front we can crawl underneath those what blocks are really inexpensive and rather easy to change and I'm pretty sure any combine you could look at what blocks will need replacing all right so once the green comes off the augers there it gets on to the green here it's top sieve and there's air blowing up from the bottom and this thing is shaking back and forth it's kind of like a circular motion like this and it is that the air keeps the chalk elevated and it runs out the back and the green is having up to the false truth once it goes through this when there's another one underneath it does the exact same thing the panting that runs off of the bottom one goes into your Taylor's elevator and runs around back to the combine so the idea is you set this one so that all the grain will go through and maybe some of the full pods and unfresh heads it ever it all goes through here and then you set the bottom one tighter so just the grain gets through and anything that's unfresh will go off and back into the rotor and get refreshed Anthony comes into the back and roller is entering this buoy which is your stride shopper and it is gonna shred it all the pieces and blow it out the back there's two speeds on this and there's a set of stationary knives up and down so if you drop those knives down it won't cut it up as much so if you combine a wheat and you want to bail the straw I'll drop those knives down slow this thing down and it'll maintain some straw length if you just want to blow it out so it rots those knives up doing high speed and it'll destroy it so these knives here you can see are they getting kind of worn on the one side there do but they're ambidextrous so it's got a good edge on this side so they need to come off and be flipped this sin is an aftermarket sieve you can see in here it's got a little plastic bushings in my old sieve was all pounded up from who knows it was abused it was like that when I got it and then once you get over to the back right you're gonna hit on your spreaders so we got the one off because aaron couldn't squeeze in there otherwise and this is gonna spread it now ideally you want it to spread the chaff is wider as close to as wide as your head so this combine I updated it and put the curve backs on that made a huge difference you still I had a 25-foot head I used to spread 20 feet or 18 feet and put these curb loans on and now it'll spread as wide as a head if the wind is not given degree so the screening is basically just look at your sis and make sure all the bats are still on them they'll be whole they could be holes pounded through them right dad that's the big thing so there's also there's multiple differences so that was a pretty much a standard set if we go look at my other updated version and combine here you'll see so this is a Gordon air jets if it's non adjustable so I just remove these guys here I got three different sets going here so this one is for corn I got one for beans and one for wheat and then you can see the bottom screen here that's the shoe screen then you can change onto you can Paulo and I actually have another one for doing clover screen like a clover screen I have a clover screen for doing clover seed you can see it's a really small balls clover seed it's really small and the guy that takes the seed and cleans it if you're not running a clover screen he gets kind of upset because a lot of junk falls through otherwise so really tiny holes that's basically how it works and the small parts associated with that but there's a lot more to the combine first of all tires right like higher should be expensive that's anybody it's the easy look at you look at Tigers and say oh yeah but from running on corn stalks or running on weeks double they'll be still be stubble damage on them they'll be just checked and petted these ones aren't aren't too bad these tires actually after the other machine did I bought so there's only 12 hours and these Tigers typical weather cracking dry up the crack around the bead right because you're running pretty low so these final drives this one has got the heavy duty final drives there's also standard final drive some of them had you want the heavy duty final drive especially if you're running those big bin extensions and big headers I think the 88 you could only get the heavy duties but on the 66 is you going either way so they do sometimes will leak oil out of the seal is it because there's water gets in there and free sighs I don't know I've done the seals on both sides at one the one you one two years later it's it's a it's a bit of a project getting the final drive off is easy but getting it apart and getting a new ceiling is a lot of Borg so if it's leaking you'll see water you'll just see the boil on the rim I had one on the last fall my other call might actually the bearing went out of it it wasn't leaking oil just a bearing went so I don't know in a cleaned house we ended up changing the final drive it only took three hours change the final drive and I found using them for reasonable so that was wasn't bad oil out of any gearbox could be indication that there's a bearing on it or something now you generally don't pressure wash a combine right well I do in the summer like that combine over there it's gonna get washed here probably this week so in the fall you want to blow it off yeah and then in the summer like you do I don't even come whining so this year it was March so but I don't you pressure wash because it's new usually winter time when we're finished common corn and you get water and your bearings there's so many moving parts on this there's so many non graceful bearings you get water in there it freezes water expands then you end up with bearings you get to change the next year okay so if you're buying your combine and it's spotless it's because they don't have they don't run into the freezing issue or they have a nice heated shop or they can park right once this shop gets some heat on it then I would not be afraid to wash it okay pull it in here for week and a half two weeks let it get all get dried out so this combine here is got a big top on it big grain top I'm sure you clip that later so that means it'll hold seven ton of beans or wheat when it's full which is a lot of weight on this combine so these bolts here I've had to change before you can see these nuts are new because they break because all the weight up there so if you don't stay on top of that this whole combine will will fold so you want to check your con my check these supports check these side panels and stuff make sure they're not cracked and bent because with those big choppers up there they were not engineered really to run those that's all aftermarket stuff so the combine empty weighs like twenty three thousand pounds and on the other I don't know thousand up there yeah you add another four that's all top that weight right it's all squishing down now then the bin here you can see this one here it's got a hole in it it's rotted through cuz it gets caught over the rain in the field sometimes check your bottom of your being here make sure it's not rotted out see I got a patch over here cuz this there is a kit that I put in the bottom there's a stainless steel trough you can put in the bottom that kit looks like duct tape no yeah well that was duct tape going on so that it it wasn't porn on my weed out oh you can see it now right look at that so there's a stainless steel liner underneath those augers now because of this hole right here so that was the fix for that so the stainless steel liner goes all the way across but it ends here it doesn't cover this part so that's what this nice little patch here is on here Borg's it had a hole in here too that is a farmer manufactured part right there and it's gonna work it's gonna keep the grain in but that's just something to look for because like this is gonna tell you a lot about the condition of the bin now this combine obviously we didn't sell it for hundreds of thousands of dollars so the customer knows that's what it is then you can open this little door here and if it's full of water you're gonna get a nice stinky bass so then you check this auger here so that's when it's starting to get war it's not bad I can't shave with it yet but check your fly ting in here on this aloe dogger I this is not the original unloading auger in here I've changed it before so check that fighting on here you know check the fighting on the top one as well worn iger's just a couple thousand bucks but every thousand dollars makes it come buy more more money right so right here this is the bottom of the coal and this is the the best way to look is to crawl underneath it and look a lot of times you'll see little holes in the cones from behind the veins so crawl underneath have a look at the colon make sure there's no holes in it the wood blocks on the front of the augers right here there's one on each auger these actually you know that better shape normally they're wore out but as you can see it's just three bolts slides out the front slide a new one on where you go this that's not a deal breaker if the web block your shot I'm you know funny I feel like I'm getting richer oh it's not the way it goes [Music] so check belts check you're either pulley straight you get into here I always walk around with a pry bar and in Fryeburg bring a pry bar right here crowbar and give these all these a bit these bearings in here kind of known to be to go I've changed these a few times you just give it a pry bar in there and here make sure everything's tight but if they're not what kind of job is it to do you're doing this side is real easy this pin the other side is a bit of a pain you need one person the inside one for this size you can nicely work from both sides okay either side UK these bushings he's rubber bushings yeah they're kind of fun to press in and out that's not a field fix no while you take the arm off and then you bring it to the shop and then you price it and bring it back out so yeah these are all the hangers for the for the civic these all like this is on the centric here that's that's what makes everything shake so there's here some here all right this is this is going down to the shoe three in here two in there so just pry them all check sometimes they'll crack when it's just you know it's just a weather crack it's not a big deal is when they start to mush all over like this like this one's starting to go see it starting to moisture over to one side I guess not oh yeah but it's it's getting yeah right now the trick is when you change you know to make sure that you have this in the center before you tighten the nuts up because it's a it's a steel sleeve shoved in and another steel pin and bolting there's rubber in between so if you have it all the way one way now instead of it going a little bit each way it's got to go right right it's got to go way too much in no terror maut so before you tighten those bolts up make sure you have that centered I get some prion there right I get an impact gun you can get that out so this is one why the biggest issues of a case combine is the splines from the pump into this pulley is a pump and they wear over so you can look this one's starting to get a little loose dizzy that spline chat I'll get a belt the pole they're rich you see that's getting loose arm there so you have the pumps not turning upon the doctor named Louise hmm so that's that's getting more so I put a you can just change the hub I changed hub not too long ago probably getting due for another hub every year to make these four bolts out here and you can just slide that hider status slide it back enough that you can get in there and get some lube on that's fine okay we're back together any Caesar grease whatever you want so you can support the flow around the top you can stick some you can put a come-along off the auger die or something to hold it up yes I don't take all the lines on so the newer ones have a hole in like that other common they'll be a hole in here with the grease fitting on there that you can grease that's applying okay so but the old didn't have that so do they put number seasoned a greased you probably but when that blows in the field you don't go anywhere because that's your drive that should should I tell you move so when that spins out there you sit yeah I changed one in a snowstorm one day alright that was fun you need to know how to tow a combine check the video more give a right-angle drive here box here right so there's a seal here right make sure no we're running out of here make sure no all right here and check them for levels which you can do up top right this pump here this is not your channel pump on it because my other one this bearing on the trunnion side window so this little there was a little hole in this plate that was leaking but what had happened is this belt they so tight on there well it's not tighten now when we're supposed to be tight then it pulls that pulley over right there's so much side pressure on that and then that bearing way so that's home spare parts right there not a big deal change would you ever do an oil analysis on the underside yeah you can because this is the brass plates in there right so this hydrostatic is very strong yet sometimes they'll get slipping or doesn't want to climb a hill anymore there's too much slip either in the hiker stat plates or one or in the motor plates down here the motor down here is pretty much exactly the same as that one up there right so what it is is a nine piston pump all hydro SATs are saying well there's a lawnmower and a combine it's nine Pistons and it transfers the oil from the piston to a swash plate which is just brass and if the brass gets worn at all the oil dumps out the side right two plates that are machined perfectly that run beside each other like this right and they're spinning on each other and it's just the oil that seals them so what they get a groove it a little leak high pressure I mean you don't get the drive pressure anymore no work when it's cold and then as it gets hotter you all gets thinner and then your drive gets worse and worse the problem is that if there is an issue in the hydrostatic or something blows apart it takes everything out and you have to take every hose off and cooler and hydrous that if you're gonna replace it and flush it out because any little pieces that are stuck in there will just tear out the new one again I had a hydrostatic art customer about a timer so Hyder sat in the shop because it wasn't driving so I tore it all apart so I was wrong with it and I found a part in there that didn't belong something like well I was a pretty good indication that your motor is shot so you get the Bible goes yeah so our smaller Hydra stats found DM precision in town we've got fancy lasers and C and C's they can machine the swashplate perfectly level again thoughtfully the eval plate they got it within a quarter or you have a smart place on the back side but they got within a quarter of an inch brand-new again so here we go forward drive axle I was online looking for combine and man I found some that are really cheap but I was all because they were missing the four drive axle they were all tool Drive combines and which is great in some parts of the world but in this part of the world we all want forward drive because it gets muddy we get the roll never really had a lot of issues of the pro drive axle there's some mortars down here I've never had one apart other than maybe leaking some oil so here we are on this side of the combines there's a lot busier over here a lot more going on so a lot more chains to check like I change these roller chains every year especially this one's going pretty good it's blue for change again if you have auto chains that wears with the sprockets and changing the chain is easy just hook the new into it drag it through changing sprockets is a lot more work I don't like change pocket so I just put a chain on every year that this it's cheap maintenance some combines do have soft boilers on really got it let go like a oil brush on but every day I go with a can of oil and oil these two chains because they even wear lots why are they arrested funny because this con line hasn't been in the field for probably 18 months yeah same thing on the other side you got your you got your bushings here you got your your pin over there yeah which is a real lovely spot which is right behind beer now so that's why this one is so much fun to change prepared the other one you can see are this religiously greasy is everyday everyday I don't even put five hours on or 10 hours increase this one and same the other side and then then you have very little belts are they paying to get out of an offensive they're not bad that the bigger belt will go up top culture up there the hardest when the change is probably this this one here I did change this one in the field a little while ago a couple years ago last time I was running it and I think it took me an hour to change this belt you gotta get it over the shafts here take these chains off gonna take this out of there so you get the belt off and you gotta take this belt off and this belt off so can come off of this bully did you so but I've done it lots so I knew what wrenches I needed and there's just water going down so check the belts for cracks so here to this pole here to give it a shake make sure it's not loose in the shaft or that one's loose connections these belts like this was a couple hundred bucks out with moves 500 bucks you're probably count on most bolts queen - papa dogs how you go to those big ones are like eight nine hundred marks and then check your chains so you can see down here and this change due for replacement uh sprockets getting worn this sprocket is the driven sprocket the drive sprocket on top of this elevator is probably worn out twice as bed I can show you how to check that that's really simple to check and that's a clean green elevator so all the grain that comes off your your screens goes down the bottom comes across this auger and then this elevator takes us up to the bin this elevator here is what brings all your stuff off it needs to be refreshed comes across where as up goes up there this auger wears a lot less there's not a lot of crop going through it so then also what you need to do that is that you need the crime under here dirty again this pan right here is auger trough all your grain is running across this so this one I replaced because the other one got a whole war and if you get a whole worn in it you can't see it from out there but all your grain will fall onto the ground and then you blow all your chaff on top and you'll think that it's filming through the combine and you're not calm mind set up right but really it's because you have a whole warning out here it's not that hard to change you can change it maybe an hour or two it's just a matter of just crawling reason having a look and then water you're under here looking at that you can look at the frame to make sure it's not all cracked and twisted and stuff like that because sometimes people are get to combine stock and pull on them with big tractors and excavators and stuff and they twist them so this is a cleaning fan here which provides the air blasts underneath this pail here it's just basically like a snowmobile belt it goes this one adjusts we can go faster slower but this belt here is getting a little thin you can't really tell this you got a new one to go up against it but a new belt on this can give you the extra fifty hundred rpm if you can't get it up to speed just cause it's a little wider this bearing in here is known to go my brother bought one couldn't figure out why his fan speed dropped off that bearing blown out so this bearing here easy to change take these two bolts out flip this out of the way pop the bearing off for new it on there you go so here's the teetered rise all right so you got a big belt here mixed triple bell here push engages and then the end of the belt here so these ones are in good shape got a one little crack here you can see it's not all busted up and tore out the diesel-run for quite a while yet I got somewhere on the drive here but that's been like that for years I wouldn't worry about that all the 60 runners here he combines fortunes combine they've the rock trap this Baron here is a major fail point so it's a primer under here and give this this one is so good yet I changed it multiple times check this bearing for some reason is this bearing this edge of the trap it likes to go I'm going to change it you get to pull the feederhouse off you can't get that shaft past the Tigers otherwise it's just a paint to change it no pulling the feeder I was here else comes off pretty simple and when that goes down on the newer stop so we're gonna show you what the update did so this was the feeder reverser here the starter motor here that engages this gear to reverse the feeder but then in 2003 they finally fixed that so in 2003 they went to a hydraulic feeder reverser this thing is awesome this thing will back up any slug the starter motor sometimes won't back it I was none of power so it's a hydraulic cylinder here that engages and then it backs it up now while we're here these hydraulic cylinders a hope we're kind of prone to leak this is an aftermarket cylinder on it the case ones they're welded things like they put them together you can't change the seals because they put all the seals in and then they weld them and those welds will start leaking oil and then the leak a lot of oil and then they'll blow up and there'll be oil everywhere so that's a bit of a fail point watch those cylinders that they're not leaking and then this one here I get to change the gear in here because you see it's wore out that's on the to-do list but anyways when they went to this reverser they got rid of that starter motor over here we just went to a simple drive feeder drive to rock trap Drive and then they put an extra bearing so now there's the bearing back in here and there's an extra one an extra pillow block here with a greasable bearing in it so now this side has two bearings on it and that kind of eliminated the biannual rock trap bearing change all right so we'll start here in the ng apartment and look there's a brand new motor in here look at that isn't that cool so there's the expensive belts so this separator belt I think is I don't know how many hundred dollars seats go small a chunk out of it this separator belt is where all the engaging goes and you hit your owner so it takes a lot of abuse it's it's it's got some acres left in it but it's getting there and then this is the rotor belt so you want to roll this over and check it because it'll get a crack in one spot right here the whole belt with like brand-new except you have a small crack right one spot and that's where it's gonna break so just roll it all the way around check them all make sure I think it's like it's six or seven hundred dollar bill it's a few hours change it's a matter of taking off this u-joint here this chain ah it's been out of here you're supposed to put a tool on here I just use a pry bar to pry it open and fight it out not fun in the middle of some time so that's a whole is dipstick on this guy here just to make sure you got some good oil in there if this guy is leaking oil you won't see it because it'll be running into the rotor and you'll never see the leak cuz I get end of the gearbox runs in the rotor so that gearbox are using oil good chance it's gonna come out I had to change these plates back here they cracked and broke and that thing was running on an angle on the splines and the end of the rotor ended up wearing out yeah this is something you never want to use but that wrench that is for when you plug it so when you plug in you get the climb up here let's stick this in here and start cranking that rotor by hand back and forth to get the and yeah been there done that never a fun day it's usually because it's getting near the end of the day and just crops start to get tough and you're pushing to get that last meal done and then plug the engine I think we can almost say what to look for we've got that video leaks blow by coolant oil like 66 is 88 saw like a tree comes in um the 44 is at five nines pretty good motors occasional knock knock out the side beautiful big top which is awesome this auger here you can see it's get worn onion I'm gonna guess that 95 percent of the used combines are gonna have this end worn off like that especially with the big top are this auger has to push all the green up so this end is a lot of wear on it the rest of the auger will be fine it's just this tip there's a lot of places up country that reef light augers and they'll reflect bill foot and on for you yeah you get everything now so this one is just a matter of couple bolts here and this ends off and the bottom end is in a bearing and it's flying to a shaft so this one actually come to take this up you slide it up this one comes by the easiest auger to pull out of the hole combo and there's augers down here run load augers and check the bin there's no hole run then it holds up the side any any any holes in your bin is gonna be green long straight and then you can also check like you can see here we have another patch on right here so this has got a Youth Center which is right in behind here and if you pull these two nuts off this will just pop right up and you can have a good look at that top sprocket which I'm pretty sure is gonna be worn more than the bottom one that we showed you so the unload tube here there's a plate up front with four bolts take that plate off take your take your half inch wrench that you use to get that plate off the front of the knife on the rotor take this plate off and you can check your fly ting on this auger and check the tube now this tube I did replace because the old ones thin or up and if I put a new auger in here over the years the fighting it tore this it's all all that green soybeans especially just wherever they go you're wearing the cab not a whole lot goes wrong in here other than this has got the Case IH AFS display and these things suck I'm just gonna put that out there they delaminate so you can't press the buttons anymore if you grab the corner of the screen and push on it sometimes you can get it to work but this one I think is it's pretty much had it my other combine there the owner got so fed up that he put a egg leader in it and that thing works awesome oh then you can walk under here for mice damage so you can see we got a little mice damaged mice like gluten common calves so you can look in all these places or use your nose you can see the mice have been in here a little bit nice like tall blonde calves and air filter behind here's beat up a little bit for the mice but yeah check for mice they like to chew on wires clicking and banging and crashing all right so get him running walk around travel look for noises here noise you get trying figure where it's coming from so the best thing is is that you can kind of hear roughly where it's coming from and you see something moving that's not quite right shut it down get out there with a pry bar get out there start turning belt start pulling pulling bushing and stuff start prying on things and and see if you can find the drum so first its initial molarity noise could not really hear what's going on is banging and clanging and shut her down we got in there and took the pulley off because that's what we thought we could hear from got in there we found that pin as oh but that that that knocking sound with that runs with the with the chopper that that's pretty good indication there's a pin something wrong and they got thinner or bushing or something wrong with that chopper so [Music] from the newer one here so we took that belt off and that Foley off it's not something's wrong here but there were those pins are starting about yeah I get to do one saying how this decide that's a two-man job I think that would be a good next video for graded to just holding a light you can to be the man on the inside [Laughter] hopefully we got Kevon covered most of the basics there's a lot going on in the machines but generally as a rule of thumb 6000 hours is $4,500 on the common 6000 won the engine that being said is you can have a combine with 2,000 a separator hours on and everything's were oh there's nothing changed all right you guys enjoyed these videos definitely comment down below we'll keep doing this well their equipment I was a nice rainy day Kevin's all happy cuz plants are growing he doesn't have to do anything you got everything in everything's planted nice other things up good it will be soon though hopefully but now you can come back the mediators not washed eggs we don't know the Micah's we plan yeah yeah but anyway you're gonna come back and work on the third Gator get it out of my yard right it's got a lot more progress out of them you're stupid they're never like a severe as to whether to see done running or done done done done alright alright alright look around for that video side remember you're not filthy got rich [Music]

Channel: DGHD

Views: 105,591

Rating: 4.9733586 out of 5

Keywords: deboss garage, international harvester, case ih, case ih 2366, 2366 combine, 2366 combine review, farm equipment review, tractor review, case combine, what's inside a combine, how to buy a combine, how to buy a case tractor, how to buy a case ih, how it works, whats inside, whats inside combine, how it works dghd

Id: mRtz9Dlrvq4

Length: 39min 26sec (2366 seconds)

Published: Tue Jul 07 2020