How To Rebuild A 5.9 Cummins 12v Diesel In A Million Mile Dodge #1Mil12v (Part 3)

[Music] all right so what we're doing here is we're taking a lower mileage engine that the owner has the history on and knows that it's a good engine we've done an oil analysis on it the results came back very good but while it's out we're just freshening it up what we're doing is basically what you're able to do in your own garage with few select tools we're not sending it out to get machined in any way if we did that we would get a higher mileage engine and just rebuild it completely and what would be involved in that is boring the cylinders out putting oversized Pistons in it replacing the Pistons decking the block decking the head redoing the valve seats and guides in the head but that also adds a couple thousand dollars to the rebuild and this engine isn't necessarily needing that we are cleaning it up we are deglazing the cylinders replacing the Rings and the bearings checking out the valves replacing the valve seals and basically making it so the oil stays inside the engine making this truck good for another million kilometers this is basically just show you what you can do in your own garage on a limited budget with something that you know the history of we will be getting into higher horsepower bills later so stay tuned coming back to the channel we'll be building some crazy horsepower engines later and be getting our machine shop involved in that bill that will involve different turbos more fuel o ringed all those fun things but that's not what this bill is about so let's get into it all right your parts are clean you're ready to start assembly and now comes the eternal debate what is the proper engine reassembly Lube tenets different engine builders to tell you ten different things I've used the multiple different products generally I've never had an issue I've used white lithium grease I've used the Permatex ultra slick the Cummins manual for this engine calls for pearl OCH 105 something like that permit plate 105 and that was fine but that manuals written 30 years ago white lithium grease has been around for 150 years and they've been using God forever the only problem with white lithium grease is that if it's left in too long it's got acidic values to it which isn't great for the bearings basically what it comes down to is you want something that will stick to the bearing good enough that if you fire it up a month later it hasn't ran down or washed off it will allow the two metal surfaces to mate with each other they have to wear a little bit they have to conform to each other so you don't want to use like a synthetic oil because that doesn't allow the especially like the Rings to really grab those cylinder walls and form into it best thing is to follow your manual some engines have different startup procedures than others so when we rebuild the diesels in the comments we generally put them on the dyno as soon as we're done and just load them down get that smoke rolling out and make sure that everything is seated properly for this engine we're gonna be using the Permatex ultra slick had good luck with that as well the white lithium grease have never had an issue but we're gonna use that for this build just because make sure that everything is clean the brake clean is your best friend we're gonna wipe it down with lint-free cloths make sure that there's nothing in there a good idea to blow all of your oil galleries and make sure that there's nothing in there that the the passages are all free and we can start assembling here we go for things like the bearings I kind of want to see this symbol on it a lot of aftermarket companies pistons Chinese these parts are expensive because they're from common but a lot less chance of anything going wrong using original equipment now half of these don't have an oil groove these are for the caps the ones with the oil grooves are for the bottom so that the oil can come through and then spin around the bearing surfaces and allow the oil to go into your oil cooler so let's be aware of that because we didn't swap out the cane bearings I just put a little dab of normal 1540 oil on there and on the lifters there as well just the face of the lifters [Music] [Music] now for the middle of one I don't put the assembly Lube on it I just put a little bit of oil on the bearing surface and then put it on dry we'll clamp the whole thing down then we'll take this one back off again a plastic age this one just to check our clearances start in the center work your way out torque sequence is 44 88 and then 130 on glass but right now this is called plastic age and buy it in a strip super cheap all it is is a piece of plastic or clay or something just a little little piece of something around there that you lay on the bearing journal torque it down properly you cut a little piece off like that and it will squish it'll flatten it down and it will flatten it to one of these measurements if you can read that the thicker it is the less clearance you have so 2 to 6 thou which is basically you your clearance for any engine you need about 2 to 5 thousand our mo expansion and for the oil to get in between so a little piece right there on the top back on carefully torque it to the 44 88 and then 130 again another this last step the last torque I'm just gonna flip the engine over so the weight of the crank is sitting on it as well you can crank these down I like to turn my engine over because the weight of the crank would be setting on it then but before I do that I'm gonna put my camshaft back in again otherwise my lifters are gonna fall out so let's do that [Music] we've got 3000 so if there's one that's honestly I've never had one that's been outside of the clearance if it is outside the clearance you need to get your crank reground and get undersized bearings if it's more than five or six out or tighter than one tower mm so this stuff you can leave it on suppose of thee because it will wash away in the oil I don't I carefully pull it off again and we'll put some assembly Lube on that tighten it down and our crankshaft is installed I like using the gaskets and the gasket putting the camshaft back in is the opposite but because we didn't replace the bearings I'm just going to lubricate the bearing surfaces [Music] [Music] hard to do when you're resting and these get torqued down to 18 foot pounds now would be the appropriate time to install your KDP fix you can go online and buy a kit if you want to waste your money or you can just grab a piece of steel drill a hole through it put a point on it grab a longer bolt and tighten it to 18 foot okay so we have another video showing you how to install the rear main seal so you can go check that out if there's just one thing I hate doing it's doing things twice especially videos so if you need some instructions on that just a couple key things to remember just kind of lube up your crankshaft sand it off with some fine grit sandpaper don't take this plastic guide ring out and the most important thing is these little 5/16 buggers are so small that I always always lock tight because they have a tendency to rattle loose especially on the heavier equipment and then the seal doesn't leak but it leaks in behind here not so much fun a little bit of brake clean best friend little dabby and then put them on as tight ice as you think you can go put them tight tight enough so they don't come loose [Music] okay now the crank is in put a dial indicator on the end check your end play this is more crucial for manual transmissions because you're constantly pushing on that clutch so you're constantly pushing up against that thrust bearing you need four to 17,000 lenient we've got about six so I'm happy with that check it a couple times yeah we got about seven I'm happy with that all right so before we get too excited with the pistons we are gonna check our end gap on the Rings general rule of thumb is put your put your ring in push it down with the piston using the piston to Center up the ring is generally fourth hour and so this being a four inch bore so have about 16,000 thow and that's plenty so we are ready to throw the rings on the Pistons lubricate them up clean the bore one more time individually as we go and it's all some Pistons here we go I think this thing says environmentally friendlier which means they probably put less than I can nice and clean crank and bore now check the piston and clean it all right after blow-drying it clean check another ring gap starting with the oil ring at the bottom I put the gap of the coil at the back the opening at the front the oil ring can go either way up or down there is no up or down the second ring has a taper on the inside if you can see that that means so that's the exhaust gas are gonna go in and hit that taper and expand on that ring absolutely genius I'll put the gap facing the pin at the other side again you want to make sure that you stagger your your gaps yeah don't break the ring don't break the ring if it has four rings like a generally stagger the one gap at one end the other gap at the other end of the pin never on this rockin sides because as the Pistons going down it wants to rock your your power side is on the front then I take it I don't put it in a pail of oil get all nice oil behind the Rings and that's all that's nice and smoky when you first start it up bearing on there nice and clean don't touch the surface but cap assembly Lube let the oil run off a little bit the grabber piston ring compressor this is just an old-school one it works all right fix it put a little bit of oil on the top here piston actually says front right on it so unless you're illiterate and a you can't really get that wrong drop it in I just use the clean butt of a hammer so just hit the piston here top it down make sure that your crank is at the bottom because you don't want to bang this up against the crank journal and risk damaging it if you can pull it down that works it's pretty tight you may have to tap it make sure that cranked journalist is clean pull it down install your cap the numbers have to match you can't mix and match there's a stamp number on there a little bit of oil on your bolts and then the first torque is 32 then 50 end up at 72 do it in three stages turn it over once just to see if something's locking up or binding assembly looted is pretty sticky it should turn fairly free it goes all the way around twice so wipe off all the extra oil because I do have quite a bit extra it'll be smoky when it starts up but it won't be dry here we go once you have your first piston end it's a good idea to do a protrusion test and to do that just set a dial indicator up and then you can spin the engine over you can find top dead center when the needle goes to a certain point and then starts dropping off so I had it right there that should be roughly zero see how it goes up and then comes back so right up to so there that's my top dead center and you just zero your meter and then just slide it off of piston onto the block and I've got 27,000 trues you check and make sure that's what I need make sure you check it out that at the front of the block or the back of the block because the way the piston rocks it's able to tilt the the piston one way or another going the other way so with the pen it's not able to do that so you get a more accurate measurement at the program at the back you have to look up your specs you there's different protrusions for different models so you get the number off the piston you can look it up online we'll put the link on there and it'll show you how much protrusion you're supposed to have now because we didn't change anything we didn't change pistons we're not I'm sure that's what my protrusion is supposed to be I'll double check it yet but you have to do that if you replace the Pistons 100% do not skip that step so this is your oil cooler we actually just replaced that after the 1.8 million kilometers these bolts backed off and I started leaking so I just replaced this because he was losing coolant so I ended up replacing the gasket on this and the oil cooler I pressurized it overnight and as I was pressurizing it that night there was a hole was fitting up top that was leaking and running down the side of the block so I tightened that I pressurized it for the night it held 16 pounds all night I thought we had the problem licked I was confident that it wasn't the cracked head board block but the block the crack doesn't open up until the block gets hot so yeah we took the oil cooler from the other engine and we'll pop that in here there is a difference between the for BT and the six BT oil cooler has a couple more coolers in it so probably okay to put a 5/9 cooler and a and a for BT and a 3.9 but not the other way around I have a 5.9 in my for BT and I never had an issue so as easy as it gets taking everything down to 18 foot pounds so we got a new oil pump I'm gonna pop that in look at that made in China right from the Cummins dealership make sure that the pen bottoms out in the hole there that you have a little bit of backlash and tighten these up to 18 foot pounds after you pre lubed up make sure you see all the oil running out dump that thing full of oil all right is that China Steel's I'm not gonna last good no good it's quality inspected see little scribble day without a car don't know what that is but anyway the inspection was completed Wow pretty straightforward clean it plastic thing as a guide a little bit silicone the seal comes in from the back line up the holes spread that RTV around sad that they don't paint behind the pulleys so will will change that for sure and take a wild stab at what these get torque 217 no 1918 yeah the type of cover not rocket science the gasket has a slit that goes around it make the front so you can read it pop it in place and torque it to 18 foot pounds there's a kind of a cloth there like a kind of a cover that goes around this yet don't worry about it most of them start peeling off there's nothing to do with anything ready water pump there just has a little rubber o-ring make sure it's nice and clean the best tool for that little dentist picks we're great for cleaning out the grooves and all sorts of wonderful things bolt it on and take a wild stab at the torque I'm thinking 18 foot-pounds okay so we're gonna get into our head first thing we want to do is pull the injectors out because they stick out past the bottom so support it on a wooden block to keep it up off the bench if you lay it down and hit the tips you'll damage the tips and you have to rebuild every one of your injectors so these have been in for a while it's dirty so you can use its own nut to pull it out the injector actually has a little ball in it that sits in a groove so the injector itself can't spin so get yourself a 17 millimeter socket or eleven sixteenths and cut it down to about three-quarter inch just lay it right on top of the nut and then take either an old injector line or you can take your injector line off of the engine if you don't have any and just put the nut on there spin it down I've got some extra lines that's why I have that I'll just take a 15 16 wrench you can do this when it's in the head or in the truck too and then just spin the spin the nut out what happens is this nut that holds it down is now as you're spinning it out it's kind of stuck on there because it's dirty but this will actually just push up on it and pull it nicely right out of the groove it's very gentle on the injectors it doesn't hurt anything slide hammer or wear that is also an option but then you're pulling on the body and some of these just don't want to come so you can use a ratchet and a 15 16 socket to slide over top of everything problem with that is sometimes the nut spins off and you're not doing anything so I just like to keep an eye on it make sure that nothing is binding or grabbing to 200 and slow and steady you've pulled six injectors very effortlessly now we've got a test bench there we're gonna throw these on the tester will see if they're all spraying right we also have the injectors out of the other head so we'll just use the six best ones and pop them back in again without rebuilding them we have another video on testing the injectors so you can check that out we won't make that video today pull valve springs up valve spring compressor very straightforward we're gonna do is just replace the valve seals these little caps here make sure the springs are all okay take a good look at the files but basically because this engines been sitting for a while we just want to clean it you see the buildup of crap on the valves you know the face looks really good we'll take a good look make sure it's got a good mating surface I don't think we're gonna do a whole lot with the head other than clean it and replace the serviceable parts so far the valves look pretty good if we were gonna build a monster machine we'd send the head out we're gonna check and make sure the head is nice and straight and go from there so the biggest problem with an engine that's been sitting is it just condensates and you get rust everywhere you don't want that rust coming in you want to do it yourself just a little bit of coke coca-cola and a spray bottle and then just let it sit for a little bit you see the rest start to come off already see how it turns and then a little SOS pad from your mama's kitchen and that surface rust will come right off so I use the wire wheel in here I just got all the pieces that I could get pieces that I can't get take your time give it a little scrub let it sit for a little bit pressure wash it again the bar salt tank make sure you get everything out but that that will get rid of that little bit of spend about 20 minutes doing this [Music] 90% of the work is just cleaning it but that turned up much better I got a little bit of flash rust in there and it will get a little flash rust if you let it sit for another month or so even while it's all sealed up that's just the nature of the beast we've tested the injectors we've got the six best ones cleaned all air valve springs cleaned all of our valves basically we just want to make sure good contact surface on the valve itself there's no pitting that the valve isn't bent taking micrometer and check it in a couple spots make sure there's not a worn again this engine is lower mileage and it was well maintained it just sat for too long and basically we were just cleaning it and putting it back together again the valve springs all look good you can check them for tension and for height there is no up or down on this they just go in we'll be putting the valves in with 90 weight oil which is what the manual recommends and then we have the new keepers for the top I don't know what the difference is I don't know why we need these my Cummins guy gave me a new top lifters form I'm wondering now I'll put one together and see what the keepers feel like but yeah [Music] inspect the valve seats make sure it's nice and even if there's any doubt any scars or cracks or or anything get them get the head sent out and get the valve seats done but this looks really good I'm happy with it's nice and uniform all the way around now it is super crucial you put the valves back in the same spot that they came out of so make sure you mark them I got a friend one two three four so they'll go back in the same hole three assembly Lube for the valves if you don't have it 8090 works too but I feel pretty confident in this one [Music] [Music] [Music] so the cummings really like to run cool they're very efficient so not a lot of energy is heat Cummins is able to use most of that heat turned into energy but it actually runs too cool for my customers liking so yeah this is a hundred 90 thermostat out of a 24 valve I guess this is a part number and you look that up 375 190 and what we do is we take this overhang off that's on the outside and he took the o-ring off of a 12 valve and just modified just cut a little groove in there I think or just shave the end off I'm gonna - I'm pretty sure to shave the end off and then with the help of a little silicone only stick city thermostat in there and then the o-ring with this and then he the thermostat doesn't open until 190 and he seems to notice that it runs a little more efficient running just a little bit warmer so that's what we're gonna do okay the oil strainer bolts get torqued to 18 foot-pounds you might want to lock tight the actual strainer right there you see how the gasket there sticks out a little bit fast you want to shave that off with a razor so it's nice and even with the block on the front cover and then put a little bead of silicone on the mating surfaces there the gasket I just put a little bit of silicone and I mean like a light little bit of silicone on the gasket on both sides basically just to hold it in place it's not a new oil pan so its might have a couple little imperfections in it here and there start in the middle with the bolts and work your way out just like you would a head that way not waving back and forth like you're running experience and I'll let you guys take a wild wild stab just pick a number somewhere between 17 and 19 as to what the torque is gonna be there we go all right put the old valve covers on and just hit it with some matte black paint make it look 100 percent better if you use gloss paint it's really hard to find out where your oil leaks are because everything is shiny and it just goes dull after a while anyway we're gonna paint the twin banks black we'll just kind of buff that off and then we'll paint right over top of where it says twin banks and we'll just take a flapper wheel on a grinder and we'll just take the paint off of the high spot and the twin banks will be shiny we're gonna polish the valve covers cuz we're just gonna sand them off we have a video on how to polish the valve covers when I did it on my Silverado and then the fuel lines are gonna be silver and just to give it a little bit of character all one color is kind of so we're gonna make it look like a million bucks when we're done still yeah [Music] all right this one's 18 foot-pounds this one's 18 this one's 18 and this one's 18 all right so we're gonna mix it up a little bit these exhaust bolts are 32 foot-pounds start in the middle work your way out the bolts to hold the turbo to the exhaust manifold are also 32 foot-pounds but if you can get a torque wrench I'm not hit me up I want you to work for me because at some point you got to put a wrench on it kind of got a feel for those bolts same with the 18 foot pounds when it's inside super critical take your time especially the oil pan things like that make sure that it's even that you're pulling the gasket up evenly and that you're not wrecking the gasket by over torquing them but you kind of get a feel for it after a while I kind of like driving a car you're not looking if you've been driving for 15 years you don't need to look at your speedometer every eight seconds to see how fast you're going the bigger bolts here that is also 32 foot-pounds holding the AC compressor bracket on is 32 foot-pounds put the gasket and behind there very straightforward don't need to make videos on that these little guys I don't know what they are but make them tight don't make them come loose and don't over torque I'm sorry I forgot that torque that's 92 foot-pounds for the front flywheel now I basically just assembled it to make sure all my parts are on there that they're counted for that they're painted that looks good for a thumbnail and now it's time to clean up my bench make sure that there's nothing forgotten put everything back in the toolbox clean up reorganize I gotta take the head isn't bolted on or anything it's just sitting on there one to keep things clean two to make sure that everything is kosher and I'm not missing any pieces I wrecked one fuel line actually so I got to get that on order but the heads coming back off again so we can put the block back into the truck and then we'll show you guys how to torque the head and everything down yet and a little bit more sanding to make them nice and shiny and then we clear Cottam as was the turbo and the 90 here all I did was basically hit that with a wire wheel took about five minutes to do a decent job it's all that's scalene Assaf and when you pop the hood it just looks good to start off with not gonna touch the alternator you can see the difference between like the tensioner and the alternator it just gets kind of scaly and it's just uh at some point get a stop I just painted and that looks like a million bucks on a very reasonable budget you can do all this in your own place yeah here we go

Channel: DEBOSS GARAGE

Views: 1,121,206

Rating: 4.9032345 out of 5

Keywords: 5.9 cummins, 12v cummins hauling, cummins 12v rebuild, how to build a cummins, how to build a cummins engine, how to build a 12v cummins, cummins rebuild kit, cummins build project, million mile cummins diesel, million mile cummins club, million mile dodge cummins, million mile dodge ram, dodge ram hauler, dodge ram diesel maintenance, cummins teardown, 12v cummins teardown, 6bt cummins, 6bt cummins build, dodge ram flatbed, cummins diesel, rebuilding 12v cummins

Id: PIy9G1lP_Qo

Length: 33min 12sec (1992 seconds)

Published: Sun Apr 15 2018

Reddit Comments

[u/BulletTooth32]

Better than anything on television

[u/Yakasaka]

How many ugga duggas does 18 ft/lbs translate to?

[u/atarnusta]

Honestly shits addicting. I’ve found I can’t start it at work cause I have a hard time turning it off. I’ve got a 1st gen with 200k miles on it. Runs perfect. When should I start to think about doing something like this?