The Golden Age of Men's Style: A Talk with Marc Guyot

hello ladies and gentlemen and welcome to this new episode of sartorial talks today i have a special guest with me in borgon and it's my friend marc guillo hello mark how do you do how you go you may or may not know who marguio is if some of you and i hope many of you have bought my first book the parisian gentleman there's a full chapter who's telling the story of the wild child of the sartorial world in france my friend margulio but i'm very happy to have him today for another reason because on this channel i received so many questions about the men's style of the 1920s 30s and 40s and specifically about this tv show called picky blinders everybody seems so passionate about picky blinders and and always when i'm asked this question about picky blinders i always had the same ancestor take a look at the work of maguio in paris france because i believe is probably one of the last if not the last who is able to really be faithful to this vision of men's style in the full wardrobe that is very close to the style of the 1920s and 1930s which is very well depicted in this series if i tell this about you are you happy with the description to be associated with this style and this era uh yeah yeah i'm i'm not like an expert of this period but i i was always uh passionate about all the the style from the 20s 30s to end of 50s after that i'm lost oh yeah you you surrendered after 60s late 60s i'm lost definitely okay they lost you yeah completely my passion starts up yeah uh late 20 to two late 50s okay and so in your opinion i want because you said you're not an expert of course you are an expert he's a very humble man it's not for me to tell you yes but of course you are an expert and when we will discover the work of marguerite during this show you will immediately catch what i want to say about this style but when i say that the work of the person who was in charge of the global look of this series picky blinder and specifically of the wardrobe of the actors and actresses do you think that they did a good job yeah definitely they did a really good job i think i think they had a price or something yeah in the world yeah something but they deserved it yes yeah the job was uh great yes definitely very precise and unreal yeah because all the the garments uh seems to be uh worn a lot yes worn out we say one out yeah and and maybe we can make uh a comparison with uh with the the other show boardwalk empire yes with steve bishkami the world war the world war was incredible yes uh very bold very uh a lot of check double-breasted everything was incredible but a little bit too neat yeah a bit too too brand new yeah you mean that you had the impression that you were looking at something that has not been worn it was not looking as natural as it does yeah yeah it was too neat for me yeah but that's the professional eye on this what kind of hat they are wearing in picky blind and it's called the scottish cap it's a irish cup irish cat it's cup the one with the it's uh six pieces yes plus the divisor yeah so it's seven pieces plus the button and there's a button in the middle yeah which is the tune it's making so it's not like a a baseball or a or a golf cart no no no it's different it's a it's a little bit larger yeah uh more round and larger than the the golf cap that it's too flat for me yeah you like to wear this kind of car yeah yeah of course of course yes we've been wearing it a lot yeah i i make them to measure too oh yeah yeah of course you still craft them in in in france in paris we or online we can order a cap no not online not there for a moment but uh i will have them on ready to wear okay so if you're next time if i come in paris and i want to have a picky blind or cap i can come together yeah i've got several of them left and i will have the back order uh what is interesting to finish on the picky blind chapter is that uh well we have now the the credit of an expert and he said yes it looks really natural and this is a very good and what is i didn't know and that you told me that only with this series the people who were crafting caps so they sells skyrocketing yeah like 30 just increase yeah just because this model this style yeah it just it's reborn yes with the picky blinders yeah effect yeah and that's bizarre because this is you see how it works because if we were featuring a little bit more stylish series like that on tv maybe the men's style would improve like that because so it means that people are not immune to what they see of course on yeah and that's very interesting i agree with you with a boardwalk empire even if i think it's it was also yeah it was a great work it was variable so it was a great let's go back to um mr griot so to make things clear uh margwijo doesn't have a vintage shop to make it clear because a lot of people think that you can only find these kinds of it can be vintage with the fabrics yeah it's not the second hand shop exactly so you make the charity shop exactly and it's not a second hand that because you can find a lot of stuff like that from this era in vintage or even antique shop but at mark the fabrics can be vintage but it's it's new garment that you craft for your client expressively for any customers yes it's the measure okay so tell us about your influence because i know you were very interested in i don't know if some people know about this in the uk or in the united states with this very famous magazine that i discovered i must be sincere through you a long time ago we know each other since 2007 so a few years ago and i discovered through mark this fantastic magazine called apparel arts can you describe what it is yeah upper arts it was the the professional branch of the esquire magazine okay so uh the release was six months earlier than the esquire release yes because it was addressed to the uniquely solely to professionals yes it was like tendencies uh magazine okay like the trend and uh then the professional um could uh place orders yeah and when the the goods the garments were delivered in the shops esquire magazine was released and uh oh yeah those americans were already very good at business yeah yeah yeah yeah so you mean that apparel arts was only for the clothiers so only for the professionals on the follow closures the retailers and then they could see the drawing and then can order from the drawing and then when esquire was published the client would say i want this yeah this color the brown suits with the like a heavy donegal tweed yes and in the shop it was already there wow this is strategy and as soon as we are in the 30s 1940s early marketing yeah very early market so ladies and gentlemen we're going to show you a few pictures of this this is beautiful because we are not speaking about magazines with photographies it's drawings it's drawings on it so that it means that these people were literally designing fashion or whatever style and you have one of the one of the most famous guy his name is lawrence fellows lawrence fellows who was the main drawer one of the main drawers the the second one for me my second favorite it's uh douglas heard yeah that was less famous we we heard a little bit less about him a little bit less lawrence fellows was a god yeah and so these people we're designing we're going to show you a picture look at this marvel this is just amazing that you see and those people were literally uh so i where they're only following the instructional thumb designers so no the uh they started by uh uh being journalists yes reporting trends yes and then they didn't find anything at that taste yeah so they they they started to to create uh taste yeah different situation different shoes with different suits yeah uh double-breasted high-breasted low-breasted they invented a lot of things yeah so they were they were designers yeah really but maybe they didn't know at the time that there were designers maybe they made about those people are probably passed away since a long time i think they they draw they do what they like so so they what it's the same it's the same input for me i i made this i made my business because i i wanted some specific garments yeah so i made them for me and i made them for friends and then it became my business yeah but you made it out of passion first yeah to finish because it was passion i think it's the same for them yeah they draw they draw what they would like to to wear to wear yeah but i actually i'm surprised that lawrence fellows probably did since a long time because we're speaking about the 1930s 30 35 yeah of course and maybe he doesn't know how much he had impact on i know so many young people they are passionate even some people are collecting the opera arts magazine yeah yeah now it's it's really it's quite rare so yeah it is rare and those are fantastic so i don't know these people they had they were aware of the fact that they were really creating the the the fashion of today so let's go back to the young maguillo because you just told us that um you started out of passion but i as far as i know the passion started very early for you yeah very early it started at around 12 20 is quite early very early but it was mostly about uh i was adamant about what i wanted to wear yes at 12. uh it was mostly casual wear of course of course i was a teenager yeah so it was about blue jeans from levis it was 501 nothing else uh it was the the sneakers from uh uh vance of the wall yeah because i i was making i was a skateboarding yes at the time so i was very adamant so you wanted the real vans the real thing the real 501 no no knockoff no fake always the true one the original one uh 501 they didn't have my size at the time because i was quite tiny yeah so you were wearing something like oversized like baggy like like a rapper from los angeles in 1990 yeah so i was in advance for this yeah it's very it was very oversized okay yeah yeah my diet was uh quite worried about this and so it developed little by little to something else yeah from casual wear to to formal wear yes like regular jackets so 16 i wore like a seersucker jacket secondhand from charity shops i was hanging some jackets uh finding some jackets in this kind of shops so yeah i had a a peculiar style for when you are a 16 year old 16 year old boy that's cool actually ladies and gentlemen for those of you who may not know what the circuit jacket is that's is he is wearing today or soccer jacket i must admit i love this is a very rare color it's rust something it's rust and tan yeah yeah instead of the the regular blue or orange or red yeah yeah okay i must confess something to you i really like this one because sometimes i always have the impression that red white sheer circle it's like an ice cream summer for me a little bit and i'm always confused and i said if one day i wear an um circle in red and white in the street i'm afraid that a kid will come and ask me for an ice cream but blue and white but this one is very it's very conservative very conservative but this is very interesting yeah it's quite correct so this is what you started to wear circle when you were 16. yeah well you were not you were alone pretty much yeah pretty much yeah and for the winter like herringbone tweed jackets worn uh really really hold yeah yeah without any paddings uh very soft shoulder so it was a particular look yeah and so you were trying to find this in second-hand shops yeah yeah first first of course because my uh he didn't have money for that i didn't have any money to spend okay and then little by little you told me that very early when you were 18 19 you started to buy your own fabric in london yeah yeah absolutely because i didn't find anything uh anymore in ready to wear yeah too much too many alterations uh the result wasn't uh good it wasn't what you wanted yeah so it was a lot of uh you spend some money and and it's just just garbage at the end so so i started to to try the med to measure yes and um i did have i didn't find the the good fabrics yeah in france yeah they didn't have the right fabrics for me so i started to go to london by plane we didn't have the the euro star the true eurostar the train under the channel uh so i started to to go uh to london uh by plane with a friend of mine and uh and we asked to tailors and uh save a road different tailors if they had uh like fabrics to sell making suits they didn't have fabric some of them accepted some of them not and then we discovered the resin streets retailers only fabrics yes and then we started to to buy uh english fabrics there okay so and this is why because it's a gentleman the first time i went to margarita in 2007 if i remember well his shop is not a big shop we can say it's a yeah it's quite tiny it's a tiny shop but it's a very full of marbles and it's like a little it's a little wonderland for the people who like vintage um let's say british fabric because you're gonna make the difference but you make the difference between scottish cottage irish and what's the difference between the three it comes from the the yawn yeah they use and the the system of uh weaving yes um the wasted yeah is mostly english okay and when you talk about irish linen it's irish yeah and when you talk about tweed you can have some donegal tweed in ireland ireland yeah but otherwise it's scottish because it's not this it's not wasted it's not uh what we say in french penie and cade it's a difference of a weaving system and it's a lot more rustic heavier yeah and a lot more rustic yeah and you still have so because i remember the first time i walked in your shower oh my god this guy has some marvels but from 20 years ago 30 years ago yeah years ago you still have these deaths yeah yeah yeah i used to have them yeah and you still have them i still have them for the for the most part and then i i go on i keep on uh buying some and looking for looking always yeah for the death star kenya yeah you told me that you have old clients they they ask you to hide to hide some pieces yeah why because uh they already have uh one garment or two yeah and they said whoa whoa whoa no no hide this thing because i will make a jacket next year and i i got to reserve it to to make it so that's funny yeah it's an obsession yeah it's an obsession but these are very rare fabrics like uh 50 years old now so okay we won't find them anymore of course so as i told you at the beginning of this interview and this discussion with my friend margu his place is it's a very rare place and it's very unique after okay my wife always say you can't say very unique either it's unique or very something so it's a unique place and she's laughing on the other side of the camera because uh i can say maybe you like it maybe you will not like it but it's very unique and what i like in mark is that since i know him but i suppose since you started doing your own collection in the late 1990s you never changed no i didn't change anything yeah you're not having to share your business now i think for the garments uh i i created a lot more for shoes different designs different resources yeah for the wardrobe i didn't change anything because it's not my style yes i just recreated yeah my favorite style it comes from the 30s it comes from upper arts magazine comes from esquire so i didn't change anything and and i won't change anything you could never change you don't have to change what the genius made before you just have to to try to be at the same level yeah i'm humbly yeah and to pay maybe somehow a tribute to their creativity yeah because yeah yeah yeah i paid it because uh when you're out of the system uh you you lost customers sometimes they come back sometimes they don't yes so of course so now let's deep dive a little bit into the to the marquis style because we are talking about picky blinders and all this stuff from the 1920s 30 40s he said until maybe maximum late 50s yes definitely but now let's look at some pictures and let's read it but as you can see mark is not um dressed like your average businessman or even like your average clothier i'm gonna pick put a few pictures on the screen i've seen markings fantastic outfits but they are not really easy to pull off while you're not let's say comfortable with yourself yeah and when you're not a seasoned so toilet that you understand what you're doing i've seen him with a sneakers you call it that detective nickel boxes knicker boxes so explain nature that there's two different sizes yeah you got the short one which is for hunting yes it's quite short it comes directly to the knee under the knee and then you have the plus two see it's plus two inches below the knee yeah it's it it's for hunting but i'll be a little bit more uh for golf yeah playing and then the plus four plus four inches it's like uh you know bag evans uh legend the red the robert redford uh flick this is my favorite and of course you wear this in the city yeah of course yeah yeah plain paris i've never seen anybody wearing this except you or maybe you have clients who are buying this idea yeah yeah but yeah but they're gonna wear this uh at the campaign uh outside yeah yeah yeah yeah i wear it in the middle of the city and uh sometimes uh i've got big eyes yeah i remember the first jacket that was really impressed with you and there was really in line on what what we explained is this this jacket i saw at your place with the piping yeah this is so explain to us it was it's kind of an emblematic jacket yeah yeah it's a yeah it's one of the of my my favorite and uh one of my best sellers for like 15 years now okay um it started at the i found one i saw this kind of jackets in old movies it's it's cricket blazers yes it's from the cricket world yes and then uh i wanted to have one in my collection so i i find one with my ex-wife uh in london like uh late uh 90s yeah i found one double-breasted uh like orange bright red with the the the ivory pipe okay and the big pipe you have two different kind of pipes yeah the piping yeah you get it inserts yeah it's quite tiny and you've got the big one okay it's like one second and this one was a big one yeah yeah a big one it's like this on the jacket so you can see it yeah plainly yeah yeah and that's the way i wanted so my manufacturer didn't want to make it he didn't know how to make it and i personally didn't like we can make it so i bought a lot of uh fabrics piping yeah a lot of rolls like 5000 meters oh my gosh and then i started to to sell this kind of meat to measure cricket blazer but a little bit more formal than sports yes and you can even make a suit with it now you can make a and sort it is it better to wear it odd with an odd trouser or you can make a i prefer i prefer it as a single jacket okay but uh i made a lot of them as suits for like weddings or you know and uh yeah no not in sierra soccer uh like blue and white i made a lot of suits with uh the ivory pipe oh i didn't know that and just for okay for the sake of the to make sure that everybody understand if you live in the usa cricket is this strange game that nobody understands the rule except if you are british it has nothing to do with baseball uh it's just have a bat but it's not the same kind of thing and even me i try to it's a it's like a flat bat yeah yeah and i try to understand a little bit of cricket and i must admit i surrendered quite fast because it's a little bit complex in india they are very very fond of of course yeah yeah i think these are the yeah and they're very good yeah i know i know so it's not baseball ladies and gentlemen it's cricket and of course the people from the uk i'm sure we're going to have some comments in the comment section of the cricket um fans because uh in in english uh you know there's a few things you don't touch yeah cricket tea maybe rugby but they do two different kinds of rugby and a few other things and of course savvy rule there's another jacket that i really like and i've seen very few people making it properly is the hunting jacket that you are the norfolk the norfolk jacket so explain to us it's a it's a very complex jacket yeah i think that's the original one i had one uh from the 40s i just found one in a charity shop yeah for from the 40s it was english of course and i think everybody just stopped making it in england yes and it's a shame because that's the the best looking hunting jacket i know yeah it's not the the the most technical jacket okay because modern hunters uh well you got text yeah that we wear oil jacket but this one waterproof and stuff like that yeah yeah this one is more for opera more for the appearance yes yeah it's the good thing about the after hunting it's the after hunting party yeah and then you you can make it in heavy tweed in heavy linen it's a it's a wonder because it's uh it's single breasted yes and you've got some parts aired reinforcement for the the rifle shooting yeah and you've got some vertical uh bands with uh the the belt yes and pleats everywhere in uh in the back this is a nightmare to craft right for me it's a nightmare yeah the pattern is a nightmare to to to realize it's a nightmare yeah because i've seen i've never seen any i mean real one you can have some kind of norfolk like yeah but the real with all the strap and the belt yeah yeah this is a nightmare so that's very difficult to make and you have clients for that yeah of course yeah and i make a lot of them yeah and they're coming from france but from everywhere netherlands england belgium usa yeah that's cool and this is you so you see what i like with mark is that he has a universe ah at last i can define what i had in mind to express what i had in mind about you it's not only that you are making beautiful garments or beautiful shoes we're gonna step if i may say inside the shoes soon it's not only that you're making beautiful cabs beautiful ties beautiful everything is that you have a global vision yeah it's your universe it's literally your universe and your universe is very coherent from a to z that is to say nothing is you will find okay let's let's put it in one sentence if you are starting your sartorial journey you want to buy a gray suit to go as your banker to go to the business well i'm sure he can make you a fantastic one but it may be not the place to go for you to have just a normal suit but if you are more interested in you know expressing your personality strongly and if you are attracted and i know a lot of you are by the picky blinder style by the boardwalk empire style but all this very strong and at the same time very comfortable way of living and aware of dressing i believe mark maybe the the last of the americans on earth to be able to really fulfill your desire is that all is that right yeah yeah i think i'm one that i'm one of the diners yeah you're a dinosaur you're you're the triceratops of the 1920s okay let's continue a little bit also because there's something in your work that i've always been some kind of a mix between casual wear and formal all right it's it's never totally casual and never totally formal it always has some kind of land yeah because it's it's it's all about uh elegance yes uh all about you know being comfortable yes so not being uh too rigid and too stiff unnatural yes you've got to be natural in your garments in your wardrobe yes if it's a dark suit if it's a tweet jacket or a short jacket tweed or a melton wool or you've got to be natural in it and i've seen on your website also that you are doing some lumberjack how do you call it over shirt some other shirt it's an overshoot it's a working overshoot yeah so you see it's it's it's it's and it hasn't you can wear this with a tie no it's just for real i wore them with the tie how do you do that yeah but a very sport very casual tie like a a tweet tie or a knitted tie yes you can wear them with a button down shirt you know you can you can try this oh wow otherwise you can wear a fular yes a bandana or an ankashi fern yeah yeah yeah you're very good also necklace so we're going to show you pictures of my friend mark wearing some madras or some big squares i i remember you wearing this like very reddish i think it was a madras in red i don't remember that it was a very it was a wrong it was a taton a tartan right not a madrid was a ivory base yes with a hunting green not not the british racing green but hunting green is more sports and uh wine checks yeah yeah yeah and and of course when you see that it's unforgettable so yeah because it's very very strong very strong at the same time if you want to have a little bit of a flare of this 1920s to 50s you don't have to wear this variable thing you have something which are yeah of course discrete of course because otherwise you will sell to only 10 people on earth including yourself we we we make we make uh dark navy suits or dark navy blazers yes yeah middle gray or yes but always with a little always something always at first double van quite long very slightly slightly pinched on the waist yes like like this yeah you like covered buttons also if i remember well you know the buttons are covered i used to i used to like them yeah and uh i couldn't stop making them because all my customers went for this this kind of finishing so i'm like a prisoner of this finishing because it's quite delicate so i know it's more delicate than a regular button yeah and i have now it's a nightmare because i have to stock all the the the fabrics yes i'm sorry so i should have stopped don't say it to make to make back orders for just covered buttons but i like this i like this finishing only for the four more things yeah not for the special it's because of your success people you know when i think video i think covered buttons yeah you know and then you would prefer that they don't think of it but no no i like i like covered buttons on for more things and uh and the regular button the four the four holes buttons for casual things spot jackets and more rustic i remember also your this very iconic um double breasted traveling coat i don't know how you call this one like a traveler a traveler yeah it's a very interesting code that you have a lot of cashmere right yeah i i sold more i made them more in pure cashmere and pure wall yeah which is which is cool which is cool because th this cashmere is incredible it's a double face yes very heavy like uh 18 20 ounce per gram that's very heavy yeah it's quite heavy and a very nice cashmere from anya now in italy and uh yeah this coat is incredible double-breasted but not formal very very casual because unlined no shoulder pads no lining and pleats in the back very long with uh the belt and i i i know you also make some thing that i have been totally out of fashion for years is the raglan yeah are you still doing raglan yeah of course yeah i met them with the the cape yes but yes removable cape i yeah yeah you can have it without or you can have it with a cape what we call it in french this is the kaplan it looks like very shallow curves yeah it's the idea the the name of the coat is mcfarlane okay it's the the the coat of the the stagecoach okay for the with the horses yeah with the captain because of the rain and so you can remove the cape yeah and on mine you can you can wear it both you can remove the the cape or put it yeah it's just a system of buttons yes that you don't see yeah under the collar yeah so what i was saying to you ladies and gentlemen that we are stepping in a very interesting and bold and universe and almost i would say exciting universe the only thing is so you have to be comfortable with yourself you have to be able to pull off something and you won't you have to be also if you go to mango you to want to express something that's what i wanted to say you know everything this man is making it's something always with a twist and with an idea of communication now if i'm 20 okay you look at me let's say i'm 20 i would love to i'm not i'm a little bit older not much and okay i'm interested in men's style i'm interested but at the same time i'd like to have something from you but i'm not sure where should i start or how how would you you know advise me to start with what kind of garment a mix blend of casual and formal okay to start so like what a jacket okay just a jacket no pants no trousers you can wear it with a pair of chain nose you can wear it with a pair of jeans yes you can wear it with a pair of flannel trousers yes so a herringbone tweed jacket okay not green not not more tan yeah to start with meter brown plain a herringbone yes heavy okay because you're gonna wear it if you don't uh gain weight yeah you're gonna wear it like 20-25 30 years it's indestructible that's a very good advice actually because so many kids they don't know how to start because you know why they are a little bit afraid of what people would say behind their backs oh look you know what you remember when you were young you know you were wearing your very bald and me too when i'm it still happened to me every day you know these people speaking behind my just because i hadn't lovely suit you know this impression very well so your advice is go towards some real jackets never check it never a black jacket yes because black jacket is for suits black suits doesn't exist yes bags don't exist tuxedos black tuxedo exists yes black suit don't exist okay middle gray dark gray yeah dark navy okay that's dark suit yeah black suit don't exist so i i did a full show on that as i said i don't i don't advise you to buy a dark a black suit for as a fursuit and i just explained that i bought my suit number 27 i bought 26 suit before having a bespoke dark suit just for the sake of having one suit for funerals that's the only reason why and some kind of people in new york you know with a white shirt without a tie but i know it's gonna but he says black suits don't exist i'm sorry uh ladies and gentlemen if you've been buying black suits this is great news or bad news they don't exist you can put some black silk on the label yeah it becomes a tuxedo yes and you close the vans and then you've got a tuxedo what i like in this one is as uncompromising about men's style you know it's uh and this is what i love now let's talk about shoes because you may or may not know that mark uh okay of course he's is uh offering a full wardrobe for the gentleman but on top of that is he's a very accomplished and also quite famous shoe designer you've been working for you've been working for other brands like during your carrier yeah in europe mostly but uh i made some some collection for bolstart new york stuart yeah a very famous place in new york and so you've been designing so give me this soon okay let's so this this shoe is not is in uh uh it's in how do you say that it's a crust it's a natural uh calf natural catheter it has to be covered it has to be dyed yeah yeah it has to be dyed so you i can come to your shop and choose oh this is one of your iconic models yeah emblematic emblematic yeah so you call it one of the classic you call it the swan wing the swan wings because of the this are like uh swan wings yes yes yes yes and so you take this and i can ask you to have it in purple or in black dark gray navy indigo blue okay a dark red okay so i work in inside your shop i cho look at that this is marvellous this one is is is good your welted right it's a goodyear wilton yeah yeah this is beautiful it's closed closed chat with a close channel yeah you see i don't know if you can see this this is beautiful too and so so i can i walk into your your shop i try on the shoe this one can be ready to wear right yeah you have it in ready to wear how much is this did you have an idea uh goodyear welted uh it's 550 v80 included so it's more like a 480 xv80 yes something like that okay and and then you have some lines also in black uh construction which is a little bit less yeah it's 420 so yeah three fifty xvt when you remove the v8 because as a traveler you can recuperate the v80 at the airport or if i ship them yeah you don't pay the v80 on the site ah okay so if you order this on the website directly if you buy it overseas you won't pay the v80 okay so if i'm okay i'm in the us i'm interested in this pair yeah i want it to be green in the green i can send you an email we can discuss the color you can you can just buy it on the site yes and just uh uh write the color yeah you stroke just other yeah and then you send an email you say i want this kind of green but here with in orange and then you can do this okay that's cool so it's called the swan wings one wings it's a beautiful shoe uh to be to be dyed of course because for the moment this is raw leather you say that like that and then there's another one that i like a lot is this one so we've been you know we look we like spectator shoes in this house my wife she adores pictures of shoes and uh but this one is called uh neven in reference to david niven yeah definitely sorry i'm sorry because the first one yes the first batch was a plain white yes it wasn't two-tone and uh i had to buy ties it so i remember uh david nevin on death on the nile yeah in french and in french the the akul uh flick yeah uh and he was wearing uh derby a straight cap two derby or plain white and i said okay my full blog plain white will be niven okay and the the the name uh last until now yeah this is beautiful and it's it's a different this is a like a a this is a new book yeah it's it's a grain hide in a book yeah that's a beautiful spectacular ladies and gentlemen so well if you want to know on the the origins of the words spectators well we can tell it if you want you can explain to us originally it's during the 20s uh between 20s and 30s it was about uh the jazz uh singers yes and yes so the sports people were looking at golf competition and they just discovered that they were putting darker color at the toe so that the grass will not aggress their shoes and it wasn't cleaner and then it became the choose of choice of the jacket because it doesn't exist for a sport in black and white no black and white it's that's the real spectacular shoe yes that's the shoes for the just singers yes the other one is a sport shoe two stones exactly and let's go now to this one for example so tell us about you see anything video makes is not your average shoe it's always have a strong personality always yeah i try to yeah so this one is a is it's adobe it's a it's a i call it the windsor derby yes uh because of the duke of uh windsor windsor the late one and so it's not a wingtip it's a it's a u-tip that's why because it's more it's more casual it's really really sport yes and this one is part of the a lot of them but this one is uh it's part of uh the mto program okay they met two other programs yes and so this combination of uh sweat and calf yes you can dye the the calf of course okay and uh the crepe so with this the the fringe we call it the fringe down and it's the french it's uh flecos in in spanish so flickers in spanish okay uh it's uh i i think it's it's coming from mexico originally yeah right it's uh the mexican and this is crepe i don't know you say crop you say chrysler it's crap it's crap yeah this is a very flexible yeah it's very successful it's easter some kind of rubber and it's a very very casual very sport it's a good job with it too and we we can make very combination uh a lot of combination different combination and we just ask for five weeks to make it okay and you don't have any uh increase of price it's the same thing i wanted to say you know i think you're the only one to do that because everybody who is proposing ready to wear where if you have if you want to make to order because you want to change something on a model you have to have a special patina or special feature or special whatever uh you have to pay normally twenty percent usually usually it's between twenty and forty percent and forty percent and use the same price and yeah it's the same price yeah why it's just because just because i i want to to have fun with making new things and not to have to put them on stock and have 20 25 30 pairs of this and i understand i want i want to take risk with my customers and that he have pleasure to have a unique piece yes and it's it's better for both others yeah yeah so that's cool and then we have this one that i really like it's a vulnerable boot for this one is very casual right yeah it's really really countryside guy countryside i would say it's a countryside guy because i can see somebody in these shoes immediately it's tweed it's shelter shetland tweed yeah with uh some calf yeah it's a grain it's a grain it's a grain hide calf from uh from the pui from a french french tannery yes the best one this is highly comfortable right yeah good gear like this with a rubber sole yeah it's very comfortable and very robust very resistant you know what mark this should give me the opportunity to explain something specifically for the people who are living on the other side of the atlantic ocean when people are writing to us on instagram on facebook on youtube in different manners they often asked us why mr jackman are you really dressing up every day are you never comfortable don't you release a little bit you know sometimes the pressure of dressing constantly well i try to explain to them that there's no dichotomy between style and comfort and that's a false idea that many people have they think that to be comfortable they have to look like crap no you can be stylish you can have bespoke shooting like you are you comfortable right i'm very comfortable too i mean i can say and i will maybe not stay the whole day i tell you why because uh okay mark and i we are friends since a long time um almost 15 years now we can say and uh today as a tribute to him i'm wearing one of his shirts that i bought in i don't know this one two thousand nine thousand eight or eight thousand at nine so can you believe that this shirt is um 12 13 years old yeah she's still doing very well yeah of course you see it's in oxford it's an oxford so okay it's a little bit um yeah and you see look even my calves you know they are still okay you know no problem because that's the problem of this guy he's extremely talented he's never going to be rich i explained to you why and it makes him laugh that he's not never going to be rich this is so french he's never going to be rich because he is crafting things that are lasting for almost a lifetime yeah which is a performance for shirts believe me because normally they have a very short life span i've got the same ones you get the same one with the same age yeah of course okay so this month's never gone but i'm gonna be rich but he have a very faithful clientele but i wanted to finish what i was saying about comfort and style if you look at the shoe like that okay you may need a couple of hours our friends paolo scafera from napoli said normally my estimation to really break in the shoe properly it's around 24 hours of actual wear after 24 hours the shoes is yours it's on your foot but this you can wear this all day long you can wear this in the countryside you can wear this in town with a pair of jeans not only you come you it's it's more than comfortable it's fantastic you feel invincible and then you stylish so this is a very good example of how style and comfort match it is something that that's why i brought it because that's the kind of thing i like to to make yes with all the finishing air with the you know the blue effect on the brown yeah that that's the that's my trend you know yeah i love that so well i think it's about it um so i have a few things to say to you ladies and gentlemen if you want to access mr guillo work we're going to put all the links in the description of this video so you can you can be able to find him so you confirm anybody from any country they can order shoes at your at your place and the sizing is not complex you're quite standard in your size it's a uk uk sizing so it's very very standard okay and we can make the conversion for the u.s sizes very okay very uh okay but there's no issues so it's it's very close to a uk sighting it's the same basically if we can cite some different uh companies english uh if you if you take a hate from crockett and jones yes it's going to be a hate from me okay it's the same sizing okay okay and if somebody has adopted he can send you the size he has in edward green or whatever and you can make sure it depends on the last yes but if you if you give me the size and the last because i know all the last yes from edward green in instance okay for instance uh yeah we can make okay so that's the first thing the second thing is the same the it's a little bit more problematic if you want to make some made to measure shooting you have to go to the shop i suppose yeah it's better um sometimes i can make it uh from distance yes but the the measurement yeah it's got to be very thorough okay okay i'm gonna ask like 20 different measurements to be sure okay yeah so it's better to come in person yeah of course so if you can and if you can cross the atlantic but a lot of people do actually they they know because okay mark was in my books a few people this book sold a few copies a few people know about mark but if you come to paris and you want to see something really different uh i mean really different you have to go to pay a visit to mr guillo because you're gonna discover maybe a side of men's style you didn't know it was existing always still existing this is why i i sometimes kindly and friendly call him the last of the mohicans because he's defending a vision of style that practically nobody else in the world i know you don't like to self-congratulate but i can tell with sonia we've been visiting so many countries so many tailors so many club videos all around the world and you're pretty much alone in your niche so it's not a big dish it's not a big niche but it's uh it's better to be alone in a small niche than to be a lot in it's better to be a a big fish in a small pond than a small fish in a very big ocean and this is where you are thank you mark for your visit it always a joy to have you and i give you an appointment to the next episode of tutorial talks in the meantime even if you are working from home please put on some nice trousers put some some nice shoes dress up a little bit don't lose yourself in this false comfort thing no try to dress up because you will see that one day or another we're gonna be everybody running we gather again and we at sartorial talks with all our guests and all the people who are watching we want to receive the new world of the world after covid in our most impeccable outfits and more impeccable shoes see you next time my friend be well take her and see you bye-bye cheers [Music] you

Channel: SARTORIAL TALKS

Views: 24,959

Keywords: Peaky Blinders, Boardwalk Empire, Marc guyot, Hugo Jacomet, Sartorial, Sartorialist, Classic Style

Id: TeHJVLycU7c

Length: 51min 26sec (3086 seconds)

Published: Tue Nov 30 2021