The Rules of Men's Style: a Talk with Clothier Extraordinaire Marc Guyot

hello everybody and welcome to this new episode of tutorial talks today we're going to speak of etiquette and that is to say the way to behave the where to remain classy and all the rules quote-unquote rule that are alive in our menswear industry and for that i have an expert on my right mr mark guillot himself hello mark hello hello hugo you're okay are you ready to try and break some rules or something why not why not so okay so the rules we're going to speak about um because we receive a lot of questions mr jacob is that okay to wear black shoes with this kind of pen is it okay to mix stripes with checks is it okay to do that on that most of the time what i answer is that okay just be confident with your own eye be your own your self advisor but there are some rules that can't that are quite uh nice to follow specifically in the formal settings but mark knowing mark is very very um how can i say that clear-cut rules that he applies since he's a young man more or less so i have a list and we're going to play like a game just i'm going to ask you questions and most of the time will be yes or no and you're going to explain to me why sometimes it's yes sometimes it's no and why it is a definite definitively no or sometimes you can negotiate a little bit with the rules and you remember that our motto here is that first learn the rule then break them but there's a chronology you have to know the rules yeah if you want to break them okay let's start with one of the most famous uh no brown in town or in other words you can't wear brown shoes after six o'clock yeah in town so how do you feel about that it's a no rule yes uh from the past uh times have changed a lot yeah and uh it it referred to the former where after 6 p.m when when uh you're gonna change to to for dinner for dinner so uh with a white tie or tuxedo yeah so evidently it's black shoes after 6 p.m of course but times i've changed a lot uh like i said and now i think dark brown shoes for for the evening or uh dark uh ox blood shoes burgundy yes it's quite uh acceptable it's acceptable yeah i agree with you because this no brand intel that some gentlemen still religiously follow this rule yeah ah well good for them i i i i'm happy for them but me too i think it's it's really a reflection from the past when people were really putting their real formal uh suits for dinner and so it's a it's um it's less applicable it's a little bit obsolete it's a little bit obsolete i agree so some brown in town or let's say no gold brown not light brown exactly that's let's do it this is the new rule no light brown in town after six rather darker except of course if you're having a cocktail around the swimming pool in a resort but that's another subject because it's not in the city um second question and i know you have a very straight answer on that and we don't totally agree but it's interesting no stripes with checks yeah so now as far as i'm concerned since i'm a teenager i never i never wore a czech shirt yes with a striped tie yes and i never wore a check shirt with a pinstripe suit it's impossible for you for me it's impossible it doesn't work it doesn't exist like the black suit yeah but uh reversely i've seen i know you since a long time you are wearing a lot of polka dots yeah polka dots i love them uh many size different but even the bold ones yes and uh yeah i think it can match with a check tie a check shirt a striped shirt or plain shirt or plain shirt with a contrasting color yeah the polka dot is a very nice pattern for a tie yeah and you can match a pinstripe suit uh prince of wales checks it works with everything it works with a lot of things yeah yeah it's a very nice tie sonia my love i i should wear more polka dots because i don't wear them a lot actually and bolder one and yeah actually you give me a good idea about that concerning checks and stripe i'm not as clear-cut as you are i can it depending on the the strength of the patterns some very muted things sometimes can work together but as a rule of thumb normally i don't mix them too much i prefer to be stripe and stripe with different sizes of course but sometimes i can break a little bit of rules but once again you have to look at yourself in the mirror and if you like it go for it but for you i won't break this for ever perfect not my taste okay next one uh white socks yes or no uh only for michael jackson uh when he was on stage okay otherwise it doesn't exist it exists for sports yes activities yes white socks are for sport okay not for formal or even casual okay we've seen with sonia some uh quite elegant gentlemen in taiwan and a lot of people in this region of the world they are trying to revive the white sox because we have the idea that the white fox is always a very thick socks for sports but some of them can be very delicate and beautiful and they're most of that are more off-white than really white but i i'm with you on that white socks is a little bit aggressive to the eye even if my wife she's very interested in this gentleman trying to you know renew a little bit and break some rules but uh i agree with you no white socks okay uh short sleeve shirts yes or no no never okay it's just no you just have to turn up your your sleeves yes when you're hot that's all like this yeah i can do this it's much more interesting to do that of course and it's more elegant of course i know in america a lot of men are wearing these uh shorts uh sleeve shirts and uh it's always difficult for me to look at them they all have the same model it's usually with the blend cotton and polyester yes yeah it's not very noble no okay i'm sorry gentlemen if you like a short sleeve but short sleeve polo shirts yeah of course you do like this one yeah tell us about this one uh this one is uh it's from uk it's from a british brand uh ben charman yes and sherman ben charman yes and with uh during the 60s uh late 70s uh with the fred perry yes it was the two brands for the the mods the movement late 70s early earlier with groups like uh the jam yes style council yes paul weller exactly kind of yeah yeah that's so funny my son loved that muds and so it's a typical mud yeah this is a typical mods shirt yeah yeah and so for polo shirt no problem shortly shot sleeve no problem yeah for summer yeah you notice that he's wearing this with a little uh nekker chief yeah with polkadot that adds a little something because you believe that past a certain age a man should cover his neck yeah instinctively i'm 55 i've since uh for several years now uh i think it's better to cover your neck with a neck neckwear yeah you know yeah this one is called nekkerchief yeah yeah this is a little bit bigger than an anchor chief is it a neckerchief yeah and it's uh it's beautiful okay so i am sitting in front of you i'm 58 and i don't cover my neck am i still acceptable yeah it's acceptable for you i only speak for myself okay i understand uh yeah that's that's the precision we want to make it's not etiquette it's not the rule that our grave into stone you know it's your perfect but you are an expert so i like to have your opinion next one what about black shoes with blue suits or brown shoes with bluetooth there's a lot of debate i was on a very famous tv show in france by mr frederictode and he said i was told all my life that you don't put brown shoes with blue suit but me i'm wearing brown shoes all the all day long with blue suits so what is your opinion on that in the past we didn't have any choice for the formal wear it was always the black shoe with a dark navy suit because we didn't have any choice yes uh things have changed too yes in this matter so i think now a brown shoe middle to dark brown shoes yes it is quite all right with a dark navy yes uh suit uh burgundy is quite uh good too a little bit too american for the british people yes but uh it's quite good for me okay and uh with all this new uh development about the cross calves all this phenomenon uh now you can you can choose easily a dark navy a patina yes matching your suit so we don't have any debates anymore yeah i agree with you it's funny because you were saying something to me just before this we recorded this show you're saying to to me that a guy who is wearing um a blue suit with um ox blood or burgundy shoes look at like an american you like an american uh a guy who is wearing a dark blue suit with black shoes look like a french and a guy who is wearing dark blue suit but with lights like light brown it looks like a caricature he tried to be italian but it is a failure yeah it's a failure definitely italian people with taste don't don't really like light brown shoes with dark maybe suit yeah it's too much contrast yeah ladies and gentlemen if you can if you take away something from this show i've seen so many people with light brown shoes very light with blue suits it doesn't really work just it's a matter of taste but i've seen too many of these okay uh is it okay to wear uh loafers without socks english uh speak speaking people will understand the difference between lovers yeah and moccasins we say soft lover for more casa yeah yeah so when you have a lover constructed quite rigid yeah it sucks always but when you have a moccasin like a miniton car or a driving or a sliding shoe a soft loafer yeah it's without socks okay so you mean there's no choice that's right if it's you if you don't wear a soft magazine with socks during winter no it's an aberration yeah of course so you mean the car shoe for example the car shoots without socks definitely during it near the beach yeah during the summer and you don't wear this uh in town during winter with socks yes so that's very this is good sense so you told me in the french version because we recorded the french version of this show just before that what is the original because everybody thinks car shoe everybody thinks about todd's which is the most famous what is the original uh car show uh the original as far uh as we know is uh minnetonka yes the us brand and it came from the indian native american yes uh with the technique of the apron uh stitched by hand yeah so the real magazine comes from here from native american native american yeah yeah and they've been popularized worldwide by toads which is minitron car was uh was a is a very popular brand in u.s and you can you can find them in a gas station yeah it's quite popular and then uh todd uh said okay i re i invented this style but it didn't invent it's not a but he didn't invent it what about a suit with a matching perimeter matching short i'm quite all right with this i i made several of them during the years for customers back in uh when they they were working in hong kong yeah so it depends on the climate the climate really uh if it's very hot very humid uh i think you can wear a former suit with a short pants yeah berbida yes you can wear it no problem with long socks long socks socks and formal and formal shoes you mean knee-high socks knee-high socks yeah that's very look at the my wife she said oh you see it's a matter of taste but uh actually yeah no i like it it's very charming it's very i would say it can be old world looking a little bit you know yeah with the highlights you know knee-high socks and the bermuda you say bermuda in english what bermuda and and uh maybe in search soccer or whatever it can be interesting well me i'm not a client of that but uh for you it's okay to do that yeah it's quite funny yeah okay uh next one uh sneakers with suits yes or no absolutely not no non-negotiable non-negotiable okay uh well i was about to say what about the black suit but uh according to mark the ba the black suit does not exist so it's an abstraction so i have my answer it doesn't exist in your universe okay it's me i have a black suit for funerals only because i think that's that's the only way to yeah to wear it exactly exactly and you know what it's the only suit in the world that you buy with the hope that you will not wear it too often the black suit and but i have one and i use it for a funeral i must say that there's a little uh that fashion but the new yorker they like to wear it the black suit with an open white shirt it can be a little bit relaxed you know i don't despise it i don't use it very often i prefer the tuxedo yeah but that's okay even even if it's uh worn uh quite casual yes so without the pants white shirt open neck for a trendy party yes i prefer a tuxedo jacket than a black jacket okay so the black suit definitely doesn't exist for you no okay my friend no problem hello new yorkers you know this is mr guido from france and he has the right to have his own opinion but i kind of agree with him so of course no sunglasses inside yeah it goes without common sense yeah we are we agree on that um no cuffs on the trousers of a smoking tuxedo never yeah but without turn up never turn up okay uh no no pockets on the pockets on the trousers yes never never okay and uh and on the jacket no vents yeah no vents no vents no no no no okay i think this is without because it has to be really really adjusted and what about the the jacket uh the pockets no flap pockets right no flap just straight yes but uh pipe with uh yeah we call it uh we call it uh passport in french is jetted i think pocket jetted pockets yeah with the jet the chatted part in silk yeah that's the label okay so that's formal and we call black thai normally the english say called it's semi-formal because hormone is white the and the morning coat is the formal but for the day yeah and okay until 6 p.m until 6 p.m so these are rules in my opinion but we agree on that is there one um area of men's style what we should really know and follow the rule it's black tie and white tie because it's codified so yeah it's codified for a reason yeah it's for uh it comes from the gallantry uh when men must be the second in the second uh understand plan yes and to make their the women the woman shine first then they codified everything for everybody to be the same yes black and white but i bet you're not the same it depends on the cut yeah it depends on the cut the fabrics yeah the making yes and the the shoe yeah but yeah the way you pull it up the way you'll be the way yeah and that's the grace that's the elegance yeah because every every everybody is like a penguin yes but you can be you can sort out yeah just because you're elegant yeah and your sense of grace yeah because ladies and gentlemen this is all about grace and that's not an easy thing to reach even in life sometimes you have the impression but i think grace also has to do with the fact that you're in agreement with yourself and the way you act in your in your garments and this is something we try to explain so many times on this show that comfort and elegance are not a dichotomy they can go very well yeah together and the more you are comfortable the more you can become more will be elegant let's continue um oh that's something that very few people know no broken colors how do you call it a cold casic it's a wing color a wing color no wing color with a texture never never so many people are doing it on purple they they buy a wing color specifically for two color only applies on a white tie or frog coat yes only only and for a black tie normal color normal straight color or a little bit cutaway yes but never winged yeah so that's a mistake many people do yeah of course and specifically i've seen wedding in the u.s and everybody try to have this twinkle on purpose yeah and it means the clothiers are telling them you have to have a wing color but it's against the rule literally yeah it's a problem of culture yeah wow so you see gentlemen and ladies uh i just you know maybe sometimes we have something that not only we break the rule but we believe that we follow wrongly but wrongly because the rule is no wing color with a black tie important to remember next one uh what about what is your opinion of little tiny tiny tiny colors that we see everywhere in this small shirt and sometimes what do you think about that you must get rid of this kind of color yeah they don't exist anymore okay they don't exist at all yeah so it's preferable uh to have a nero or uh officer color yeah you mean we never color without colors yeah without color then this kind of ridiculous uh tiny colors yeah but you know what the problem is that um i'm the same as you i said what is that you know sometimes you can't even not properly tie with that yeah it's bigger than the color it's crazy and then we prefer when the the point of the color go a little bit under the jacket it's our preference of course but the problem is when you look at big brown's advertisement you know there's a brand as my first name you go b you go b you know you go b they advertise these tiny colors because they follow they follow the fashion yes the trends and it's without end yeah but it doesn't look good it just doesn't look good following fashion you're going to be lost in the void i agree with you hello you gobi i hope you are going well they are doing well actually they're from germany everybody thinks they are from whatever italy or now they're from germany i have nothing against them except i don't like this tiny tiny color that should be for little in my opinion ties uh what's the correct size for you of a tie between between eight centimeters and nine and nine and a half max okay top and you are wearing nine and a half nine and a half which is five wide yeah okay so never wear these tiny tiny ties like seven centimeters or even sometimes six centimeters no no it's uh it's awful awful okay so you remember we're going to translate this in in in inches but it's between eight and nine and a half and then in half and even eight for me is a little bit shorter yeah a little bit longer i don't i don't wear eight eight centimeters die okay only between nine and nine and okay the the ties i have from you i have several ties from you i showed you one yesterday do you know with this check pattern it's a nine it's a nine and a half nine and a half and it's quite uh produce i produce nine and a half okay that's good this is why and and not not uh 10 or 11 or because this is too much yeah it's more like a late 70s us tv show so no i'm gonna avoid this too okay narrow is not good but large is not good okay um something you said to me and i want you ready to explain no button down shirt i don't have one here but no button-down shirt with a double-breasted jacket yeah that's that's my opinion from a long time ago yeah i never could have wear uh this kind of shirt with a double-breasted jacket even if it's not a suit if in even if it's just a double breasted jacket yeah i can't do it no no no i can't do it you can wear a button-down shirt with a diamond i love butter down a shirt and you're my favorite that's my favorite uh color yeah shirt collar and i love double-breasted jackets but not not together that's great it's antinomic for me yeah yeah i can't have well me i i can imagine doing it if the double breasted is strictly casual yeah no very relaxed with but uh actually i don't wear uh look at my do i wear this some no i never wear this so i'm following you on this one but i didn't i was not able to express it you know sometimes you do things instinctively but it's very difficult to express themselves so no button-down shirt with a double breasted jacket even if it's a sport jacket what about a tie with a button-down shirt yeah absolutely i can you can do that it depends on the type of the nature of the tyres it can be knitted yeah uh straight yes bottom it can be in tweed or in linen or just cotton and linen some something more rustic and sporty a little bit more casual body yeah and it's going to be no really uh no jackass no weaved no formal silk like plain satin or with a with a button down okay but otherwise knitted tweed ties it can be fun that's cool that's cool me i don't really wear a button-down shirt and i never put a tie but are you right actually it's always a balance yeah between the casual and semiconductor and you have to to to decide where you want to be a little bit more casual a little bit more dressed up so but according to mr views it is the gospel of etiquette according to monk brio you can perfectly have a beautiful tie with a button-down shirt but no butterton button-down shirt with a double-breasted jacket um what about black shoes with chinos or let's say relaxed trousers never never never it doesn't exist black black shoes are four more shoes yes even a black marker scene a black loafer depends on the lofter but a black magazine don't exist okay it doesn't have any you know sense yeah so black shoes it's oxford it can be some derby yeah like the prince of wales derby like two or three highlights plain too it can be acceptable it's quite formal so you've got to keep the black shoes with the formal wardrobe yeah no chinos no blue jeans with black shoes no corduroy trousers never never you've got a lot of brown burgundy light brown middle brown shred yeah you've got a lot of choice yes to put according to this kind of casual trousers so why put some black shoes yeah and so i have a question that's just coming to my mind and what about because i've seen them black suede this is a kind of an insane it's a strange object yeah like recent yes it didn't exist in the past so i think because trade is scheduled for from 30 years now yeah we we we saw this from italian brand yeah even english brand yes french brand uh the very well-known brands but for me it's uh it's an aberration it's a mistake that it doesn't have any it doesn't make sense no it doesn't make sense because you're choosing and with the black thread yeah doesn't uh uh keep full black jet black it always becomes a little gray grayish brown yeah well we leave this question open because me i don't have a definite answer to that because i've i've never had one pair so i don't even know how to wear it i mean i'm sorry yeah but plain black sweat it doesn't have any purples you know okay next one you told me that for you when you have a beautiful dress uh pair of shoes like a beautiful oxford or really thin handmade with a very thin waist yes so you can't you have to wear a trousers with an iron plate in the middle yeah even if the the trousers are uh with or without pleats yes here uh the central uh pleat yeah for me it's necessary for to wear a formal shoe yes very thin very narrow yes very elegant with the beveled waist yeah it's uh it doesn't it doesn't match with a pair of chinos or a pair of blue jeans or corduroy trousers more rustic more robust so i prefer uh round two double sole rubber or leather yes with this kind of casual trousers yes but very thin i saw several times a lot of time in uh on instagram some some guy that took a picture of themselves yes with very nice very nice shoes from uh boot maker yes handmade they match this with a pair of blue jeans salvage or chinos there's a discrepancy between the these two styles i understand it's from instinct i don't think there is any rules it's just common sense mm-hmm so you call it a crease normally the increase the crease yeah the center neat crease and decrease okay i can full disclosure we have sonia behind the camera and she's showing me the words sometimes because you have to remember we're just friends we're just french guys you know we try to do our best so you remember beautiful fine bevelled waist beautiful dress shirt dress shoes sorry uh with a crease crystal crease because it's more classy i agree with you 100 percent on that next one um next one here okay what about oh that's something you told me i was not aware of and i think this is a very interesting quote-unquote rule you say make sure that your trousers is never heavier in terms of fabric than your jacket now give me an example of that for example i can't wear a twig jacket with a linen pants of course it's awful okay it doesn't make any sense yes if you wear a very heavy fabric yes jackets like a saxony tweed donegal tweed for me it's not good if your trousers are in light gabardine yeah like very light very it doesn't there is a discrepancy here that make me uh almost nervous uh yeah and an easy at an ease yeah not comfortable with that so the rule is that make sure that the fabric of your pants are never lighter than the fabric of your jacket never lighter a match is good even if the contrario yeah even if the trousers are a little bit heavier than the jacket it's not a problem it works on the on the reverse you can even wear uh wool trousers yes with a pure linen jacket it doesn't make any cause any problem and that's quite good i understand but the reverse is inacceptable isn't acceptable if you have a thick jacket to make sure that your trousers are not thinner than your thicker and lighter and lighter but reversely you can it's acceptable if your trousers depends on the one more time these are rules that we probably use instinctively yeah but it's a different thing that we are doing so it's a good exercise to try to express them and i hope you appreciate this um crash course on etiquette by maestro marguillo who is very famous in france for his um he's very opinionated we say this like that about this but uh most of his opinions are very interesting to follow but yeah i can wear pink suits too so yeah i know i know i have no rules but i wrecked them i've seen you wearing some real bizarre stuff i remember it was like a dusty pink you say dusty pink right dusty pink suit back in the years yeah i remember that was a beautiful suit beautifully yeah you can still fit in it i don't think so you don't get this one [Laughter] okay what about um another two or three to to wrap things up um what about wearing a waistcoat or a vest you know we say waistcoat in england in england and we say in the us what about wearing a vest or a waistcoat without a jacket no it doesn't pose any problem yeah um you've got to to stay to to keep it yes buttoned okay you you don't wear it of course we're not rock stars no we're not on stage so it got to be buttoned yes uh never the bottom one yes yeah we're not david bowie or key switcher but the bottom uh the bottom button yes must be unbuttoned at all time okay but for the rest you keep it button yeah you can wear it with a shirt open open neck or with a neck neck kerchief yeah so for you it's totally okay to yeah i must agree depends on the waist coat depending on the fabrics yeah but if it's in purely none or heavy cotton or corduroy yeah you can wear it without anything else i don't like when you wear like pinstripe waistcoat we from a suit yeah you wear it alone with a pair of jeans yeah i don't like this kind okay not me neither me neither but it happens to me when i'm in an even in the business setting uh that one is too hot all of a sudden and i have a coordinated a real three piece i can quite easily drop the the jacket it doesn't matter to me i like it's a little bit more relaxed and uh and sonia is a professional of the the the west coast of different colors she can she she's been showing so many of our subscribers how you can with two or three waistcoat or vest of different colors make a combination of like uh just with a few jackets you can infinite combination of colors you you you you're comfortable ones with odd vest or odd waistcoat or you prefer when there are no no no rooms on the contrary i prefer when the waistcoat is not matched when it's contrasting yeah you prefer when it's contrasting check the ways go to even stripe big stripe waistcoat yes i prefer i i don't i don't really like i'm not into three pieces shoot okay i prefer when the the the the waistcoat is different is it contrasting so you decided not to give three ps a chance i'm sorry i couldn't miss this one once again my last question uh was like in french we're gonna finish belts or suspenders or side adjusters one one or the other never the two together oh yeah that's for sure no suspenders with belts i've seen people doing this actually but yeah it's maybe for a comic film yeah it's quite i think so what do you think wear belts uh i wear belts whether chinos blue jeans or every casual garment yes and i'm more comfortable with suspenders when uh i have a high waist four more trousers yes with a tie yeah i prefer to have suspenders yes for the comfort for and for the aesthetic okay it's better for me yeah but it's not a rule it's just my my instinct my my taste i like it i like it like that and then the last of the last but this one is i can already tell you the answer and if you have to take away one thing please please ladies and gentlemen never coordinate your tie with your pockets never this is this is a territorial crime it's a sin i agree with you and this is bizarre because in the past they were selling the package yeah of course it was more convenient for the manufacturer of course because and i've seen it still today mainly in the usa and i please gentlemen please don't do that because it's because you know what the the effect it has is that you've seen that i've been coordinating my time you know it's horrible yeah this is for us it's non-negotiable you can stay in the same colors if you want you can say but most of the time and that's the freedom of pocket square it's so fun to to try and sometimes never buy a pocket square without trying it like because sometimes you said this will not work at some time by surprise it worked you i know that you don't like silk for pocket squares i'm i'm not a fond of yeah i i prefer uh linen cotton or the mix the blend yes cotton linen yeah because it's it's not pocket square anymore it's anchor sheaves yes that you that you fold yes i prefer this than the the silk pocket square yeah because the silk you can't really fold it because it's a little bit fluffy i would say eighty percent of the time cotton or cotton and linen yeah which is the most beautiful from simon ogden for example the french famous french brand we say hi we say hi to benjamin yes hello benjamin's such a good man and uh this man was traveling can you believe that he was traveling the world selling his uncle chiefs and he made a beautiful success with that and we hope he will go through this crisis because he told me a few weeks ago that the market of the tide and the unconscious was not in very good shape like everywhere around the world but i'm sure they're going to make it because they are making among the most beautiful and casual one of the most beautiful in the world yes definitely well i think i hope this was interesting uh for all of you for me i had a very good moment so i learned a few things you know i s i'm supposedly an expert but i think it's also a good posture in life to always have your ears wide open and and listen and also sometimes change your mind because me yeah we can confront point of views exactly if they are different it's not a problem exactly and me sometimes i must admit i am changing my mind on a few things uh we have a disagreement with um with mark about all the lapel pins tie pins all the jewelry for gentlemen i know you don't like that at all and me i i like it a lot so we're we know each other since almost 15 years and he he saw me with a lot of thai bars and taipings and and all the time we have not enough human it was just funny to exchange course it's a question of sensitivity and aesthetic eye but you you don't use this kind of thing i don't like uh extra stuff yes at all you prefer that the garments just the garments the cut yeah the fabric the matching color and the fabrics yeah shoes neat a good watch yes and that yeah but you are wearing neck achieves quite easily you love that yeah yeah i like that yeah yeah okay mark thank you very much for all this thank you i hope you had some good advices once again i think the last advice we can agree on is that the ultimate rule is that please yourself be happy be comfortable be natural exactly and if it pleases you uh most of the time it will please others because you will feel comfortable thank you mark and we'll give you an appointment to the next episode of sartorial talks in the meantime dress well and take care bye-bye [Music] you

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Length: 39min 37sec (2377 seconds)

Published: Wed Mar 02 2022