The Different Types of Overcoats

hello ladies and gentlemen and welcome to this new episode of sartorial talks winter is coming at least in europe i know also in america in many parts of the world and this is why we decided to dedicate a full episode on the subject of overcoats the subject of overcoats is not as simple as it may sound because after all an overcoat is a piece of garment that you put over your coat or over your suit or over whatever you are wearing to keep you warm but we receive a lot of questions about the different styles and the different types of classic overcoats because some of you some sounds to have seem to have a confusion between all the appellation and there are a lot of different appellation as it is always the case in men's style and what i propose to you today is to try to decipher the appellation and to explain to you what are according to sonia and me according to us the most interesting styles in terms of overcoats one little detail in the uk and i think even in america they even go as far as to have three appellation possible for the same code they speak for example about overcoats which is the normal overcoat they uh sometimes they call it a top coat and sometimes they call it a great coat in a few words what they call an overcoat is just a normal coat to protect you from the outside weather what they call a top coat is the same thing except it's slightly lighter in terms of fabric and sometimes it can even be worn as a body coat that is say without jacket and then the great coat is what we would call a heavy duty coat that is say something thicker this semantic precision aside let's step in our subject now and behind me i have uh it's a part of my personal collection of quotes most of them have several years of wear and so i really want to go into the detail of each code so that you can take away from this episode all you need to know or at least sufficient information and more important inspiration that will help you make the right acquisition for your next overcoat for this winter and we're going to start immediately with a coat that many of you have seen me wearing specifically during the winter pitiwumo this is this first coat so this first coat it happens to be in kashmir it can be in wool it can be in many different things one thing what is important about coats is that the three things you can play with when you choose a coat is first of all the length some coats will be just above the knee or at the knee level and some other coat will be longer you can play on the buttoning it can be single breasted or double breasted and you can also play as i just explained you on the thickness of the material that you use so when i ask lorenzo chiffon lee to create this code for me my idea was to make the most simple or the simplest overcoat ever that is to say i didn't want any complication i didn't want any [Music] i didn't want all of this i did i wanted just a simple overcoat that i can wear in many different kind of occasions and which will be slightly over the knees nothing specific about it flap on the pockets and you can see at the back nothing special you will see on other codes that some of them has very specific features but this one is just a plain simple with a vent central vent so this is for me the epitome of a simple uh overcoat that you can wear in many occasions and the fact that it is so adjusted allows me sometimes also to wear this overcoat without a jacket for example above a turtleneck or a mock neck it works very well because it's it's kind of adjusted you can of course still wear it above a suit or a sport jacket but it can also be worn both ways because it's an adjusted simple overcoat by lorenzo chifanelli in paris so one advice immediately at the beginning of this show i explained to you that you can play on the length of the coat for example this code that i just showed you as you you saw was at the knee length or just above the knee okay one rule that you should consider if you are short in stature uh it's advised to buy code that are above the knee or at the knee level because if you buy a code which is longer and i will show you some other that are longer it will not fit you very well because if you are short it will make your legs look even shorter so one rule of thumb if you are short try to wear overcoats above the knee or at the knee level maximum it will help really elongate your silhouette now let's move to the second coat which is one of my favorite which is the very famous polo coat so this is a beautiful polo coat this one is double breasted has been made for me by the brothers chiardi from the house renato chard in napoli hello roberto hello enzo these are good friends of mine magnificent tailors this one is also a pure cashmere beautiful cashmere and a polar coat comes from the game the polo which as you know is played with horses and this kind of coat as a specificity is that it's what we call the loose fitting coat that is to say is it's very loose fitting it's very comfortable it's very wide and it was used by the polo players in between sessions when they were recuperating having a break uh not to get cold or they would putting this polar coat above their polo outfit originally it was used to be used with a belt but now we do polo coats without belts and uh there are beautiful so this one has a lot of different particularities so of course as you can see this is a big lapel so it's a you can immediately see that this one is larger than this one because the polar coat is meant to be a little bit loose fit that is to say that you can really be super comfortable on it you can button it you can unbutton it it's a very easy to wear coat but all the details are also at the back look at this marvel that has been made by charlie of course this is a bespoke coat it's all made by hand and i don't know if the camera can catch this very well but it is very important that you see this is what we call in french martingale i think they call martingale in uh in italian also uh i think you call it a half belt in english and it has these three pleats so i'm not sure you can have this in ready to have a look at this quality of the pleats and the work typical of a polo coat and there's buttons at the back you know you can button or unbutton this is very refined coat and very beautiful one uh and it's uh so it's a version of a polar coat of course not all the polar coat have all these features with the half belt and the buttoning at the back but remember one thing with the polo coat who might be according to me the most versatile overcoat you can buy it's beautiful specifically when it's double breasted you can also have it single breasted but most of the time is double breasted and this is a coat that you will use to get warm it can be very beautiful uh if you go outside for dinner it can be used in many different occasions and this is why i adore my polo code by the house of chardi so let's continue now with a close cousin of the polar code which is called the holster code so i suppose that ulster come from the country ulster which is northern ireland so it was probably invented there and the difference between the two so there's some style difference but the main difference this is an ulster court beautiful old support made by um our good friend the late luigi del corrie in napoli it may sounds like an oxymoron to say a ulster code made in napoli because napoli is more well known for second skin jacket very comfortable and this is a fox brother wool heavy wood i have no idea it's probably i would say 700 800 maybe 900 gram it may be close to bulletproof i'm joking but that's a very very very thick and very warm uh overcoat so it's an earthquake an ulster coat let's say in one word the difference between a polar coated and ulcer coat is that an earthstock most of the time is what we could call a heavy duty coat as you can see immediately here it's very strong wool it's you know you can use this one i believe that this coat will survive me because of the the quality of the wool this is almost indestructible so if you need something that you really want to wear a lot that you really want to go into some really cold weather i think an ulster coat might be your choice one thing in terms of style that you may immediately see you see the difference between this one and this one the lapels are totally different this one looks more like a peak lapel so it's not it's a little bit more uh i would say suited up it's a little bit more formal it's a little bit more i will not say elegant because this one can be supremely elegant that's a little bit more classic this one has some military probably heritage and you can see most of the time on the holster coats the notch either is straight or even it can bend downwards a little bit like that they'll give all this personality strange personality interesting personality to this um ulster coat one more thing that you find often on the earth circle are the patch pocket you see it's a it's not exactly a patch pocket it's a mix between a patch pocket with a flap inside so it's very beautiful and also on the earth support normally you have cuffs you know on the sleeves which is a very specific feature on an earth to coat same thing on the back most of the time look at this marvel it's also made with a half belt here and with splits and this one look at this um the dark quarry so troy i want as far as to put buttoning up to the almost the top uh the middle of of the back which is beautiful tailoring gesture so this is my ulster code i only have one oh i have another one actually that you may or may not know it's my famous when i say famous it's because of for the people who are following us on tutorial talks you probably have seen i received so many um requests on this red overcoat by belvest it is also an ulster quote and i can tell sonia can tell you that i've been wearing this red coat with in any situation uh even if the flight attendant put her hands on the overhead bin and you know literally touch my i don't care with this kind of wool because it's very very sturdy and it will last a long time so this is the ulster coat and this is something you may consider if you want something really really sturdy that will keep you warm even in some extreme weather condition now let's move to the fourth models always from my collection and so as you can immediately see this one is immediately more formal it's more formal for different reasons it's called a chest-to-field overcoat um so it's coming from the hurl of chesterfield back in the years you know everything is pretty much coming from the uk uh in this area of men's style but um a chesterfield called has a few features so it's a night coat well you can wear it during the day nobody is going to send you in prison if you wear a chesterfield during the day but still normally if you are sensitive to the rules of etiquette a chesterfield is typically a coat that you will wear at night look at that imagine this over a tuxedo over a smoking jacket or you go to the opera or you take your wife to a great dinner and then after the after this you go to see um a theater piece this is typically the kind of overcoat that you will wear this one is in pure cashmere uh the the fabric is from laurel piana cashmere and this one has been made by uh our friend at akaraceni et carrachenivia fatebene fratelli in milano um carlo andreaccio and max caraceni the father and the son great tailoring house and they did this chesterfield for me years ago i've been wearing it a lot so two or three features on the chesterfield first of all very distinctive feature is this velvet color all chesterfield overcoat have this velvet color that brings immediately some kind of an idea of formality an idea of you know real classic style and the respect of the etiquette this is in this little detail that you can immediately see if somebody knows what he's doing in terms of men's styles you can have it single breasted personally i prefer as you know i'm a little bit addict with double breasted even for my suit but uh it is most of the time in the dark colors gray dark gray or even black this one is a is gray and black with a chevron motif which is absolutely beautiful in cashmere and it has simple flap pockets and at the back unlike the holster coat and the polar coat it has nothing just like this first overcoat or chiffonade just to vent in the middle and this one is way way way under the knee so this is why it is immediately more formal in the feeling because it goes really down under your knee to give this knight at the opera feeling we're gonna move to the last not the last style of code because there's so many others and i will list them i will list a few others at the end of this show but the last i wanted to present to you today so we went from the normal overcoat to the polo coat to the ulster cord to the chesterfield coat and now we have this one okay so you can see this one has been worn a little bit more than the others he's not totally perfect now because i wear this a lot it's a pea coat so well everybody understand that a pea coat immediately is a shorter overcoat of course and i never wear it above a jacket i always wear it with a turtleneck with a mock neck with a sweater or even with a shirt but i don't wear it over a coat or a jacket or a suit it's something for me which is more casual it comes from the navy originally it's always double breasted with a lot of buttoning this one is in kashmir it has been made for me by the late pasquale sabino in napoli exactly in casanova di napoli if you live in the usa i know that michael sabino the son of pascuale samino who is also a tailor very good tailoring family they have an office in new york city and they visit a lot new york for fittings etc it's just if you are interested in this in this picot this is from sartoria sabino in casal novo di napoli so the peacoat is is quite standard in the features always double breasted always a lot of buttoning this one has patch pocket with flaps and you have these side pockets which are typical from a pea coat so this one and also the thing is that more when it's really cold a pea coat has been made so that you can close it and with a button you can really button it you can see here you see oh that's an interesting detail obviously this little dot here that you can see it means that this picot has been made by hand because this is the way you can see here this is how the canvas inside has been hand sewn it's a very interesting so if you want to see it's a little trick it was not planned in my show but when i see this if you want to see if a jacket or another coat is really made by hand just look behind the latan and you will see this little dots like that that makes uh you sure that you are talking of a high level and um really properly made overcoat so that's the picot for me it's more casual this is something i wear easily to go for groceries you still look good i like to wear this with a scarf you know that around the neck and it's it gives you style that is to say this is typically the kind of coat that even if you want to be more casual or if you are in a more casual setting you can still have some style and some flair while being very comfortable needless to say you can wear this very easily with a denim or with a jean so here we are for my personal part of my personal collection of coats and the code that i prefer in terms of style however there are many different kinds of coats and i suppose that many of you in front of your screen are waiting said why don't you go speak about a trench coat and you would be right because the trench coat is one of the most famous codes specifically for the rainy day so a trench coat is trench coat sorry is made specifically with a material that is water repellent and will protect you from the rain i'm not a big fan of that because uh well between you and me i prefer a beautiful umbrella than having a trench coat but it's just a matter of take the trench coat comes i didn't know that come from the world war one and the infamous trenches in which the soldiers were most of the time spending some time month and month literally in a very difficult position and the idea of this coat was to be of course waterproof or at least protect the man from um rain but also it had a lot of pockets in order for the soldier to put as many ammunitions on them as they can carry just for the little story so trench coat of course is very important to have in your world once again i don't i'm not a big fan of trench coat but it's just my personal taste then you have also the famous duffel coat i don't know if you've seen a duffle coat we'll show you some pictures the duffel coat is normally with a hoodie it's a bit more casual it's more countryside coat with a special attachment with little straps for the buttoning so it's with a hoodie it's called the duffel coat it's not my style but some people love it i can understand if you are younger or if you don't if you're not really into classic style but you like the sign of a beautiful code that can be worn in different occasions a duffel coat can be a good option you have the lowden oh so lo then uh i remember when i was young i was fascinated by this uh people wearing their green loden was an inverted pleat in the back well a loden is not a name normally originally is not the name of a coat it's the name of a fabric that is made in in the tyrol in germany and austria and uh it's an interesting code that normally is a single breasted with an inverted pleat on the back for me it was the picture of the i would say we call it in france the bourgeoisie so the the good society in paris uh the classic people when i was young were wearing all of them loden coats most of the time they are green but not only so it's another model that you can very very very classic uh maybe a little bit slightly too classic for me the load and coat and then you have another one or it's not exactly a coat it's the way the sleeve is attached we call it a raglan overcoat which is uh well in one way we're going to see your picture instead of having the sleeve attached here the the sleeve goes all the way to the neck so that it creates a fluid line here with no accident it's called raglan one more time not my personal tastes but there are some beautiful raglan coat out there and the last thing i would like to share with you uh i know our friend michael brown on sabiro who used to work for and with joe morgan previously um special not specialized but did recently a lot of what we call body coats and so a body coat i told you that this first coat this overcoat from chief only from time to time i was wearing it without a jacket just with a sweater or with a turtleneck but still it's not a body code because it has not been designed specifically for that i can wear it like that because it's sufficiently adjusted a body coat it's something that has to be worn without a jacket directly on a shirt or directly on a sweater and michael brown is doing some beautiful one and they are long it is a modern interpretation of the frock coat that of course the novels were wearing and all the good society was wearing in white tie settings for example and i like this idea of wearing a coat directly on the body without a jacket in the middle okay it's immediately the one michael brown is producing are quite long other people are doing it now they can be a little bit shorter but i like this idea okay it's not for everybody i will probably do one for myself soon because i like this idea but it's immediately more precious it's a different feeling it has to be adjusted and it can be supremely elegant but it's if you are at the beginning of your tutorial path go with the first thing first buy yourself a nice overcoat if you like the polar coat style and looseness and comfort you can go for that you can buy an ulster coat if you really want to be protected from from the the outside temperature and also a coat on which with a sufficiently thick material that you can use it in many different settings without taking too much care of it if you are going outside alert and you want to have something more formal you can go for a chesterfield and of course for every day uh well i can tell you my wife can testify i'm wearing this pea coat which is in kashmir but still it's a simple pea coat almost every day when i go outside to do groceries i don't have time to shoot up to go and buy a baguette or a croissant of course so i often use this peacoat so here we are i hope this little review of the different styles of overcoat has been useful to you as usual don't hesitate to comment to ask your questions if you like to have precision or more information or more advice on which type of overcoat will be good for you and in the meantime i give you an appointment to the next episode of tutorial talks keep warm and be well bye-bye my friends you

Channel: SARTORIAL TALKS

Views: 25,549

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Id: HF-jrilrsFA

Length: 25min 22sec (1522 seconds)

Published: Thu Dec 16 2021