13 Style Mistakes You Should Try To Avoid

[Music] hello everyone and welcome to an edition of sartorial talks the podcast and the youtube channel we're really happy you're with us today because today is that day when you consent a little bit of autumn in the air after a long hot summer we're here from our house in burgonia france and you go my wonderful husband's right here beside me say hello hello everybody hello darling how do you do great and today we're going to talk about something a little different than usual normally we talk about what to do in classic style but today we're going to talk about mistakes in classic style yeah and that's a good topic because uh we learn by mistakes we all know that and but i must before you start darling i must confess to everybody first of all we're happy it's not 100 fahrenheit outside and not 45 celsius so we can be back in our double breasted suits and we enjoy it so much both of us are chief only bespoke today we had lorenzo chief on the lead yes just by chance and the second thing is that um we are um going to talk about something when i prepare this is our technique when i prepare a topic she doesn't really know what i'm preparing and when she prepares a topic i know the global subject but i have no clue about what she has items on her list so that's the spirit of sartorial talks we want to have fresh impromptu discussions and styles and i must say that when when she speak about mistakes not to do we don't have the pretension to teach people anything who are we to teach you how to present yourself to others but if we add our years of experience you and me in the field uh we probably maybe more than 20 years more than 20 years so we may have one or two ideas to share with you hugo really doesn't like the preachy um no i hate that he does not like the do's and don'ts he's never liked that no you know what i don't really like it either but i think it's fair to share our experience yes and so let's see how it goes yes i think there's 11 of them but but the first one and it doesn't count in the 11th the first mistake the biggest mistake i think yes and we're going to get your opinion in classic style is to be over fussy over obsessive about how you look okay well um could you define for us because i'm not sure you know i'm french i want to make sure i understand the definition of fossee give us um the idea take an example of a man and explain to how he is fussy and i will put a little bit of music because i'm sure it's going to be interesting let's go i'll use the example of daniel day lewis in the movie a room with a view it's a merchant ivory production exactly it's in florence right italy it's based in florence yes that's the setting and it's uh from the 80s i don't know i'm saying 85 somewhere around there okay he plays the character of cecil and cecil is a very fussy man and by fussy i mean when he gets ready he will look at his suit he will look at his glasses he'll see if he has any lint maybe on his shoulder he will see it maybe he's got a wrinkle on his shirt if he does he'll remove his shirt and have it re-ironed he will check to see if there's a hair out of place and he'll go so far that he it makes you uncomfortable to know that he's uncomfortable and this is precisely what we want to avoid discomfort the removal of joy from getting dressed because if you don't feel joy it becomes what a burden wow that uh well my take on this is that this guy has a lot of time first of all you have to be an aristocrat to be like that and secondly i guess he's a very rare person to be seen these days because most of people they just jump in their sweatpants and on their flip-flops take the t-shirt the first on on the pile and go outside so more seriously for the people who are classic style lovers like us well it is something that specifically at the beginning of your journey we like to say sartorial journey because it is a journey it is not a destination when you start to enjoy the fact to dress well to go bespoke if you have the money for that or even going custom and try to understand what you wear i must admit and i can confess for myself that at the beginning of this journey a tutorial journey you can make mistakes and one of the biggest mistakes it's to overdo it a little bit that's true and you know when people decide they want to embrace classic style because they're buying less yes over time yes and they just almost can automatically get dressed because they have their they have their shirts they have their suits they have their sweaters they have their best they have everything just there and you can really get ready fast when you're into classic style but but it's still a disease even for us sometimes yes that's true we overly obsessed so what is the remedy i think personally the remedy is to actually change your attitude like have a higher latitude of attitude if you will and for me i came to the conclusion that what am i doing i'm i'm in classic style yes all i want actually you look super good today darling i mean you look do it every day but specifically today i'm not just saying that but but all we have to do is remember we want to get things done yes right and we want to be approachable so this i say this in my head today okay i'm dressed i want to get things done and i want to be approachable there's going to be some mistakes maybe my fav maybe my face broke out maybe i'm having a bad hair day maybe i have a little stain here i can't do anything about it right now let it go be approachable feel approachability as part of who you are yeah this is my trick what do you what do you do when you're obsessing well i love what you just said i think the key word about what you just said has been um um debated many times by bruce boyer and even by baldur castiglione when he wrote this the book of the court here in i think it's in the 1570s uh it's about nonchalance it's about the ability to feel okay with yourself and to feel comfortable so but once again uh let's not condemn people okay me i can i give him let's take my example when i take a subject and that's my little personality i want to know everything about the subject so when i take that when i started to learn classic style 15 years ago i wanted to know everything about the colors about the the shirt colors about the the tie knots about the different kind of double breasted vest and everything and i had a tendency to overdo it and putting like two or three accessories a tie bar and a tie pin and you know too many things and an unker chief and and so many things so but sometime it can come from a good intention also that is to say it's not only you you embrace this by passion the remedy to that is to be comfortable and that's maybe the first time you will hear mr jacob may saying be comfortable because focus on comfort well i mean you can destabilize while being comfortable and when you reach that difficult balance to be extreme i'm very comfortable right now so you ask yourself am i comfortable yes i like that or maybe i'll use that too i like and comfortable with yourself there's it's also a kind of a self-confidence i don't want to in france we say to try to push open doors you know we're not talking about self-confidence but it has to do uh probably with self-acceptance because when you overdo it when you are fussy this is the word in english it means exactly it means you're not sure of yourself and then you doubt you've got to be okay with not being perfect exactly yeah exactly like for example my hair a little bit long these days but it's okay let's go to them so let's go let's hit the subjects that are easy to approach this was more esoteric first thing first mistake stubby color stubby shirt color tiny little colors where they create a big gap yeah from here to here this is my pet peeve this is something that you'll see in high fashion brands incredible and you don't understand how they miss that because come on if you have a nice collar that has a length you're not going to have a gap here you're going to have a flow of the silhouette i'm wearing my color out look at hugo's collar well you should have told me before because if i knew there was your component number two i would have put another color but this is a specific case when you glue it to your shirt yes your color is yes you're not really gluing it to your shirt but explain well this one is uh well if you look at the video this one has an hidden button so it allows me to have a small color but stick to the shirt but also it's a round club color english color but the rule of the thumb and you will experiment it for yourself is that when you choose a color for your suit make sure that the point of your color goes slightly under your lapel but when you look at all these advertisements now with this little not little i don't even know the word this is miniature colors with with the tie the tie knot sometime is is almost as big as the color it is ridiculous women who um wear ties they make this one yeah all the time yeah but it attracts your attention to something which people don't understand is that elegance and men's styles and anything around telugu it's all about proportions and when you have these small colors i i've seen them yesterday i was looking at tv you know and i was looking at these journals they supposedly well dressed on the on the channel where people they still wear a tie and and a suit but they have these tiny colors and they're not sticking at all no no and even even there's a big brown i'm sorry you know has my start with my name you go and then it's continue with a b you go b they feature this in their advertising i don't know if they still do well it's it's shocking almost how they like satorial culture to feature stuff like that but well maybe we are becoming old and we prefer all styles day one we've always seen the breakthrough yes with the shortcut i agree with you on this it's super easy that probably every every um show you've seen this is the mistake but you cannot not say it sure it sucks oh yeah but this is not negotiable i mean it's just a matter of good sense when you cross your legs whatever you are and you show half of your calf and then well thank god i don't have hair too much air on my calves but when you share when all of a sudden you see this beautifully dressed man who has a lot of charisma but all of a sudden you see the hair on his golf i mean the image is totally broken no short socks it's just not negotiable i mean in america they like it over the calf us in europe we even go as far as to the knee directly this is a tradition but honestly short sucks is to be banned and that's probably one of the only thing which is non-negotiable truly and this is not a sponsorship because we're not paid to say this but you usually go to either maison rouge or oh yeah yeah we've got some good people mr setrudemyredsocks.com fantastic people uh jacques evanson we know them through their bo and we like also massimiliano he is in is in italy i think he's distributed by by uh mr cedros it's a very interesting uh shop once again no sponsoring is just our friends um they decided one day because it's it's a funny story uh in the vatican in rome uh there's a tradition um you have um the the tailor of the pope and of the clergy you say clergy uh it's called gamareli and there produce you know the ropes for the cardinals and all the dignitaries of the catholic church in uh in rome and uh the tradition is that the priests are wearing black socks that the cardinals are very high in the hierarchy are wearing purple socks and only the pope has the right to wear red socks and those two young men have this brilliant idea to say what if we go to this maker gamareli in rome and ask him if we have the right to distribute red sox that is to say the socks of the pope made by the maker that makes that actually makes the socks for the pope and it became they said yes yes and it's a worldwide success and now i think it's one of the biggest uh online shop for socks in the world it's called mesosetrus.com i think it's my redsox.com in english but i'm not sure you can check for that and that's huge selections of socks of different i can't help but say they have this crazy willy wonka sock machine that they're making socks there on oh yeah yeah yeah this is the only place in the world that you can here in paris it's called bespoke bespoke socks you can choose your pattern then they they knit the socks in front of you this is crazy and they're they're long enough yeah yeah nice people honestly nice young entrepreneurs what i'm doing moving on is i'm mixing up the simple things with the more complex things yes the next thing that's a huge mistake is when men and women with suits raise the notch very high so they look taller yeah what happens they suddenly have wings to fly and it's really strange and i don't think they understand that when you raise a notch your lapel should not come up so high that you have little wings so well this is you did this yeah i did i did this uh i had my years let's say about that but well um you are mixing very basic thing with very advanced this is kind of an advanced science talking to beginners yeah we're not just talking to gurus or talking to different people okay so the rule um sonia is explaining here is that there's a rule when you are a short man or woman uh the note is this part so if you are on youtube i show you the notes is this part this is where the the part of your lapel is breaking into two parts yeah and so the rule is that when you are short raise this notch as high as you can on the shoulder so that it will stretch your silhouette the problem is that applying this rule uh has been somebody some people and me included i must admit i've been because i'm not very tall i'm one meter 79 i don't know how they translate five foot a little over 510. and i still have a lot of problem with the feet and the of the imperial system yeah so i'm 5 10 so i wanted to raise and it works very well but sometimes i went a little bit far and i've with my notes very high on the shoulder and that's becoming ridiculous because the point of my pick pick lapel will literally go above my shoulder and i look like batman all of a sudden exactly so i confess i did it but now i'm becoming more wise so next this is a simple one do you say mo why is it wiser either one oh wow my english is improving so next let's go to a simple one okay remember when uh seven or eight years ago everyone in classic style was saying fit is everything it's gotta fit your suit's gotta fit it's all about fit okay we took it so far that some men started wearing super hero tight suits it almost looked like they were wearing um wrestling uniform onesies yeah so this is a no no it has to fit but don't look like a superhero i agree well i must confess once again i've been quite far in this on this road the problem with this is that when you are going too tight with your feet let's just say really really hyper fitted well if you just eat one um trench of riyette for example in france or one piece of camembert this is what we love or you have one pizza in america or you have a good bottle of wine with some you know good fat butter food you know that we love to eat all of a sudden your suits start to be at right to be unwearable unwearable so yeah and on top of that i think that now more and more uh the i i hate to say the trend i mean but the sensitivity of the of the time is to be more comfortable now and to be more we call more drape yeah no more so yes don't be over fitted but dress uh according to your size because don't go the other extreme which is like you're wearing your big grandfather's exactly obvious something's wrong once again it's i say i think as being reasonable balance is everything exactly but i don't dislike being a superhero once from time to time i'm just kidding so now we're going back to more sophisticated point mistake remember we're talking about classic styles can i put a little bit of music behind yeah okay oh i love it okay you don't know what i'm going to say so right now i'm going to talk about i like because when i put music she changed her voice a little bit i'm going to talk about something that every man and woman in classic style should know it's a term called button stance sounds fancy it's very simple it simply means wear your working button on your jacket is positioned the men's style even women's style mistake i see so often that people aren't even aware of is the button stance is placed so high too high it almost merges with the nipples on the chest it almost looks like a muumuu if it were a dress if you guys don't know what a muumuu is what is a move like when you have a lot of weight on you yeah your waist could come all the way up to here and then it's just free-flowing oh my gosh okay so that button stamped where you button your jacket should be located somewhere around your navel or where your navel may actually exist when you come out of your mother where your navel navel may actually exist on your body make sure the button stands as soon as yeah it can be a little bit above your navel you don't have to be as because the navel can be can be different parts depending on your body proportions have you seen men have they have a really long torso and little short legs yes yes okay so if they raise that button that working button up pretty far above their navel it can really balance their entire body yeah so this is my men's style mistake that i see very often specifically in people who wants to um who are trying to dress with some kind of okay let's let's face it a real um uh tailor will never make this mistake a be spock taylor who really knows what he's doing and understand the proportion but if you go to a custom salon sometimes they work with blocks that are pre-prepared and sometimes they miss this fundamental point where do you put your buttoning button the button stand the working button that is you understand that when you have let's be me i'm double breasted here today but if you have a single breasted let's say two button jacket you only use the top one you'd never button the last one and this is the working button and you have to be careful because she's right some people um looking to be as stylish as possible they raise it so high that it looks kind of ridiculous so button stance is a very underrated element and mostly overlooked by many many so-called professionals and even in ready to wear this is the first time you know just use your eyes and you will see if proportionally it is good or not now i need to make a call out to some of our experts who are listening today because i have noticed and believe me i've looked at thousands thousands of pictures of men and women in classic style yes outfits and what i want some of you out there who really know the trade to to comment on is the double breasted button stance because even some of the best tailors out there i've noticed with the double-breasted suit we'll put the working button very high so i'm it's a call out for you gurus out there to make a comment in the comment section yeah yeah i agree with you i agree with you but at the same time yeah i agree with you actually me i love you know my favorite double breasted is the chief only six on one because it's a real six on one and the line of buttoning is a little bit higher but it's a six on one it's fantastic you have a summer suit from from naples with a very high dose yeah yeah yeah i agree with you i agree this is more for advanced people who already understand what it is a buttoning but yes you're right you have to be careful not to go too high with even on the six on two six on two for the people who don't know this is six pattern with two who are uh functioning and then uh six on one is the same thing but only one is functioning excellent now let's go to something very simple yes we're going sophisticated simple we want to reach everybody yeah okay shoes that need attention this is a huge style mistake ah you're the best you are always taking care of your shoes and sometimes i'm not a don't do as good of a job as well as you do so yeah and so i'm asking you to help me out a little bit but but when you go out and your shoes are worn out ah all that effort and then you're wearing worn out shoes that need attention you've just basically uh lost your time well this is like the short socks it's non-negotiable you just don't go outside if you're you don't have decent shoes share your polishing secret because you do it in through oh i don't i'm not a polishing expert at all i'm not no i'm not in three minutes you use the separator moisture cream yeah but i should really really you have to go to see some like the shoe snob blog for example or some uh kirby alice on youtube is doing lessons on that he's doing some sunday shoe shining there are experts me i'm just uh i'm just a renegade on that i do something very fast i'm using uh the fabulous product some saphir once again no advertisement here but this is a french company uh we need to support our local producers sofia is a fantastic brand saphir s-a-p-h-r-i-r and you're using them a lot of moisturizing lotion yeah it's called the cream universal universal cream and this is a cream which is very interesting because it has a tendency to remove all the former um you know accumulations of wax of of creams and uh but normally when i'm really in a hurry i just put a little bit of a crime universal and i just uh let it let my shoe um dry for one or two minutes and then i brush it you're putting your whole body in yeah yeah you brush it with a with a with a shining brush and then i go outside but look at the shoe snob look at kirby alison you you're gonna find this is non-negotiable your shoes have to be impeccable you see you notice the rhyme this is non-negotiable your shoes has to be impeccable very good very good i should have become a poet i don't know okay now let's go to a little more technical one but everybody needs to know this men's style women's style mistake giant armholes in the jacket huge mistake yeah oh you're speaking the microphone darling because you say you dress because i'm so removed by this point make sure the armholes when you try on a jacket or commission one are not too big because what happens you go when the armholes are well it's easy to understand i mean it's it's one of the basic of men's style and i mean basic but you have to unders it's easy to understand um it's it's mainly ready to wear you have to check this is probably one of the first thing you have to check is the hate of the whole okay me well i'm dressing bespoke today like sonia so we have chief on the lee so the hum hole is extremely high and uh so it means it's a small harm hole the hum hole this is where uh the position where the the sleeve is attached to the suit so this one is extremely high probably amongst the highest in on the in the market on in the world yes and so when you move your you have a smaller home i'm holding which is very high you move your arm and you see my suit doesn't move now if i do the same with a big hum hole that is coming very very low when i do this my suit would do this with me okay so i've seen so many people giving lectures on stage exactly and then when they raise their their hands like that uh maybe they're preachers or maybe they are doing a lecture they're very passionate they can be even extremely entertaining and all of a sudden politicians and when they do this you see the whole suit doing that yeah and this is ridiculous so that's and that's easy my friends to notice a high harm hall is or a small sleeve head is the same thing can make a huge difference just because you are and on top of that people have have a full belief that it's the same when they are dressing too big dress with your side but when you have a a bigger armhole you feel more comfortable but in fact this is not true when you have a small armhole you feel a little bit more structured in your um as you say in your allure in your in your stance but uh you have more freedom of movement you tend to stand up straighter you command the room more and yeah okay i think we made the point as chief only lorenzo chief only said this microphone a few weeks ago he said this is a paradox bespoke tailoring you can have a jacket where an artisan we have been working 80 hours putting so much work on it so much you know fittings and everything and then the ultimate goal is that you forget your jacket because you're so comfortable in it i honestly i don't feel i'm wearing a suit right now it's so comfortable it's insane yeah because you can the movement range of movements exactly high hum hold very important next one yes simple one we're going sophisticated simple simple one uh we're not going to keep saying don't match your tie with your pocket square because we said it so many times so what about the cheap tacky tie someone's getting ready they're just in classic style they're looking for a die ah there's a tie drawer that's been there probably for years so they just go and pull out a tie they have a wedding maybe they're going somewhere and they just put it on and this cheap tie ruins everything what are the standards for a tie well i would say go for um this is open your eyes first of all and also train your hand uh the thing for a tie is that you have the ability to touch you can immediately touch for avoid by all means all this kind of polyester of this kind of you know fake you know go for silk or for a blend of wool and silk but silk is the king it's the queen i don't know if it's a man or woman in english because in french silk is a woman but uh yeah silk is is the king of of of the fabrics for a tie second thing i would say that um um well let's be straight um a beautiful tie under 50 euros or 50 is suspicious because the price of the raw material is so important of course vintage of course yeah of course of course and you can find uh you know on ebay or whatever from vintage that's another subject but i mean for a new tie around 40 50 euros don't don't be greedy on that because i've seen people buying extravagantly expensive garments and those be a little bit cheap on the tie this is uh no this is not right but there's something very important is that never buy a tie on the because you you you find it lovely on the rack and that's another i can add to your mistake because that's a mistake i made sometime i look at the tie on the rack and i said oh my gosh that's a wonderful tie and then i buy it and then stupid enough i mean it's impossible to wear it because it goes with nothing and then on the reverse you see a tire said what is there somebody in the world who's buying that piece of crap this is really bizarre you know the it's it's uh you know with some weird patterns and it comes out exactly and you put it on that's what it works and it works oh dan from uh dan costa from urban ties yes sometimes he we we say daniel i don't know how you do his name is dan kostash he's from romania hey send us some ties because your curation skills freak us out they're so good so he will pick five ties yeah we don't know what he's gonna send us that's right it's like getting a stylist or something yeah but and then you're you're like oh what is this this is so strange but then you end up wearing the tie a lot this one is from nicola radano for the people who are looking uh on youtube this is uh this is a beautiful threefold tie but this is a real artisanal tie because you can see inside i know if i can see look at the camera you can see you see you can see there oh look at that look the interlining so you can see this is handmade thai you know so it's not finished and it's beautiful this is a this is silk yeah look this is quality this is not expensive i think it's around 60 or 70 euros so japan this is fantastic i love this is from kenji kaga yes yes uh kenji kaga is our friend uh i think he has um the company is called sevenfold or taiyo thai florence uh a fantastic again these aren't sponsors at all no no no because you are wearing taiyo thai japan i'm wearing nicola rada no spaka neopolis we spoke about the urban thai our friend dan costas in romania there's also howards in paris who's doing magnificent ties our friend frederick costa hello frederick there's many many many good people in this uh calabrese of course in naples francesco uh analisa hello analisa petronius in milan extraordinary people it's interesting because everybody say the thai market is plunging it's over and we have these some fantastic creators and the beautiful thai artisans yes and the beautiful thai can change your life i'm becoming very dramatic but it's true it was sophisticated okay so i'm going to put a little bit of music maybe for the sophisticated not very sophisticated what i'm going to say but believe the music anyway so you go to lunch with a group of people and it's a classic style lunch and suddenly when everyone sits down you notice a few people at the table have jackets which tend to start climbing up over the top of their heads and you can't stop looking at the back of their jackets because it's eating their head and it's a very strange thing to see and this is a style mistake i would say and you know what you can do to prevent it no remember the term sitting fitting yes whenever you buy a jacket whenever you get one from a tailor of course you sit down to check your jacket and if you see the back of the jacket coming up over your head obviously there is an error in the way that's been crafted ladies and gentlemen my wife is a style encyclopedia she's a style guru we've been i i agree with you that this is the reverse of the color gap this is the other problem that when you have too much fabric on the back and uh this is where bespoke tailoring is so good because you avoid this this is the first thing a good tailor will look as though if you don't have too much fabric look this is a chiffonade bespoke it's perfect it's sticking to my to my color and even when i'm sitting it doesn't overwhelm me i've seen politicians in some tv debates literally being eated when they sit down yeah by their suit and it's it's unbelievable oh there's nobody on the set to tell them hey hey man you your suit is eating you you know just just this is this is not the this is not the suit who is wearing you is you are wearing the suit normally and this is something so yeah be very careful and even in ready to wear make sure you don't have uh an excess of fabric in the back sit down and look in the mirror it's not complicated and she's right the solution is what we call a sitting sit fit sitting fitting and even if you are at a bespoke tailor ask him to do a sitting fitting to see if your if your jacket really stays in the same place when you are seated i have to ask you to do the collar gap talk for me because that is the other huge mistake when you don't look for a collar gap well and you buy a jacket and then you've made a huge mistake and wasted a lot of money explain the color gap please well i mean this is a drama oh i was about to put music but well okay no i mean no i mean let's be serious we we we're going to speak about drama we speak about men's style nothing is catastrophic here there's much more important subject in the world but still it is important when you really take this path seriously it has it can pay great dividends in your life okay now you're investing exactly so color gap what is the color gap and i say it's a drama it's probably the drama of men's style all over the world even among the most famous brands i've seen color gaps all around the place everywhere even on advertisement you say come on how can this brand they put millions on an advertisement they have stylists and designers and so-called tailors and and and models that cost hundreds of thousands and you see a guy with with a gap yeah i used to say i have to to write my you know with with this color that with a gap between the shirt color and the the show it with yours you can't really yeah yeah it's like that you know there's a space between the color of the jacket and your color of the shirt no color got that means like this you know it has to stick and this is open well i mean you're gonna be obsessed i'm sorry for you they get obsessed but you're going to see color gaps all the time and i bet if you don't know you're going to go to your closet and start putting on jackets and looking yes you have one that's what i yes but it's a sign also of recognition when you see people without a caller it's a code when you look at somebody who has no color gap you can immediately say this guy he's tutorially advanced he knows he's in the know well even the politician even the president of my country he has color gaps even the president of the united states he has color gaps even though even the candidates of the presidency they have color gaps can somebody say to these people please stop wearing suits with color gaps now you can go and buy a ready-to-wear suit or a secondhand suit having altered by taylor for a few hundred dollars and have no color gap and this is for us this is the absolute drama of men's style and please i would love to see less color gaps this is so important for your elegant it changed everything exactly exactly so let's move to an easy choice cheers i would drink water as well normally we should not drink together at the same time this is what we do but we are we are at home it's impromptu so let's go to an easy next time we're going to put wine i bet you i don't know how many as shows you're watching on youtube but i wonder if you've heard this one okay my one of my top noticeable men's style women style mistakes is with what i call the clashing belt okay you know what a clashing belt is it's a belt that doesn't go well with your shirt or with your trousers i'm talking always your shoes well everywhere that's i don't believe that people say match your belt with your shoes i'm saying no match your belt either with your shirt or if you're wearing a darker shirt of course you're not going to have a white belt it would be ridiculous or with your trousers say you're wearing gray trousers have a dark gray belt what does this do why would you do that well if you don't you're going to have a tri color show in the middle of your body so you have say a white shirt you have a red belt and you have gray trousers you're going to see a big line going horizontally across the body which cuts the silhouette in half use some discretion when you use a belt i see that as one of the main style mistakes and destroying a silhouette i have nothing to add because you know darling i'm not wearing belts you don't wear belts i never wear belts it's just because well it's just because first of all i don't wear belt because as you just said i have the maybe it's a belief but i i think i'm i can say my eye is quite trained now and i really really believe that it cuts the silhouette in two and specifically when it's constructed and just what you explain it puts some kind of a horizontal line horizontal line sorry in the middle of your body but on the other hand i can understand that some people love belts it's a beautiful example recently someone had a a black uh sweater on underneath a suit and they had a black belt yes and then gray trousers that was really nice because it all blended and flowed yeah yeah when you say don't match your belt with your shoes well i said yes and no because at the same time don't put it's easy to understand open your eyes if you have brown shoes don't put a black belt because they will of course unless you have a black shirt well i mean we'll see it's it's it's i'm not a professional on that i mean everyone's heard that all their lives but i don't think it's a die-hard rule well the only thing i the only belt i've been wearing in my life was when we have this young florian sirvan who used to be the the head of the francisco small to atelier and he took this from francesco small to himself when he was still alive from cescosmalto uh was making the belt with the same uh fabric as uh the pants so that if people wanted to wear a belt uh the belt was literally fading with the the trousers and it was the best effect but once again i am not a professional of that because i prefer side adjusters you know the the little things you have with the loop on the side of your pants and i start to prefer suspenders because well i mean i love them because it's fun uh it makes you you feel really maintained and you feel good it's it's not you know well and on top of that uh why i like suspenders is when you remove your jacket yes ladies and gentlemen it happens to igor jakumay to remove his jacket because sometimes it's too hot by the way i recorded um a talk show with stefan jimenez one of the best boot makers and shoemakers in the world and i was in my shirt because it was 110 outside so i couldn't stand a jacket but still it's uh interesting because when you remove your jacket suspenders create some kind of a cool effect on your on your outfit generally so my wife she's um i'm a little bit unsettled now because she put her paper down so does it mean we're going to move to the last point in a future episode we'll talk about what other people call style mistakes but we don't consider them to be mistakes so last one yes too many accessories yeah and how many times have we held events and people come with i don't know eight or nine accessories pen to their their suit yeah and this is a really common style mistake it's our final point yes it's so simple to correct because you're just removing accessories do you have anything to say on this well in front we call this uh christmas tree when somebody has too many accessories say you look like a christmas tree well once again it can be a mistakes of uh the young people who really want to give it to you well yes i mean it's fun to have a typing and a thai bar and a handkerchief and a pocket square and a hat and but sometimes well you'll see that the more i think it's this rule is maybe applied to many things in life i think the more you age the more you you you become more experienced and i don't want to say that experience is everything i mean the youth can be a really interesting and somehow natural flair yeah i know where it comes from taking risks you know and and taking chances and even mixing things and even me i'm very uh sometimes surprised you know when those people can break the rules and still make it but the rule rule of thumb is that well now you will if you reach a certain level in your sartorial journey don't look at what you can add when you go outside the door look what you can remove and well if you only have a pair of pants don't remove your pants of course but if you have two or three accessories i would say rule of thumb two accessories is more than sufficient they're discreet maybe three but maybe three look at what we are wearing for example today you have uh this beautiful lapel pin and this beautiful neckwear i guess this maybe almost the glasses but the glasses baby you you you need them to read your paper on those and to have your notes so it's okay and me i have a uh well i have a just a pocket square and a tie and that's it nothing else so uh well sometime i would have a few years ago i would have had a lapel jewelry and a tie bar and everything yeah it's just it's just we don't want to go in this kind of stupid lessons more and blah blah blah but at the same time i think that try to think it's all about balance it's all about and once again you have to be to be happy with yourself after all if you prefer to be over accessorize do it you know it's just classic style must remain the pleasure for example that's sort of the trademark of a dandy so so you can't go that far yeah yeah this rounds out our points of the main classic style mistakes yes the next episode i'd like to do is to address what other people say are mistakes but we don't think they're so bad give me one or two example to just uh give me a flavor of what you want to speak about for example short tie versus long tie you know some people say that ty has to fall right in the middle okay that's a teaser we save this yeah and another example uh for example yeah yeah just just so because i'm i'm excited about that for example yeah me i have one i was one of the guy who said uh oh never never they never have your loafers suckless you know without the socks and the one is so when is 104 outside i enjoyed uh wearing uh some soccer but that's another story i just wanted to say i just wanted to um i learned latin for a couple of years when i was young and i remember that there's a few formulas i remembered that everything we just said except the short socks except the color gap and except maybe i don't remember one of the items that are non-negotiable but for the rest specifically don't go too far into rules for example the rules about patterns the rule about you know don't mix the check with the stripes don't do this don't do that i'm not a big fan of do and don'ts because i like and i have to take my paper i like this you said a latin locution you say that a latin location is called exceptio probate regula in casibus non-acceptance i do it again exceptio probate regula and in english exception that proves the rule that in many things in men's style like in many subjects in life sometimes you have to break the rules and so many people said to like for example no brown in town this is ridiculous because people say oh you don't have to wear brown shoes in town after six o'clock why because they are referring to an era where the gentleman had a farm and were coming in town only at night so it's an it's another era where the aristocrats were having this rule but it doesn't apply to us i'm sorry i don't have to farm and i don't go to hunting during the day and i don't change three times even if i change sometime two times but i don't change three or four times like in downtown abay this was from this era so be careful with all these rules and don't go too much in the do and don't because the first rule in in um classic style is uh uh take pleasure this has to remain the beginning of the talk yes it has to be a joy a joy it's a pleasure enjoy yourself take your risks make your mistakes and don't listen too much to all the preachers who are telling you what to do and not to do amen oh thank you darling so uh you did the introduction i'm gonna do the conclusion we give you another appointment to the next episode you have to look at the middle camera darling we give you an appointment to the next episode of sartorial talks the podcast and the youtube channel and for now everybody cheers [Music] you

Channel: SARTORIAL TALKS

Views: 98,563

Keywords: Shirt collar, dress socks, knee socks, suit notch, notch lapel, suit lapel, button stance, what is button stance, how to care for your shoes, dress shoes, armhole, armhole suite, cheap ties, collar back, collar roll, collar gap, belts with suits, dress belts, accessories, suit accessories

Id: 1J4tA79V2x0

Length: 48min 53sec (2933 seconds)

Published: Tue Sep 22 2020

Reddit Comments

[u/LL-beansandrice]

This seems like a good list. I generally have an aversion to "don'ts" for fashion but I think with the context of their audience these make sense.

It's much more difficult to have blanket statements like "Don't over accessorize" (aside from "over" being a relative statement) in a place like MFA where there are just a lot of possible styles and ideas present. Good advice in men's tailoring though.

[u/danhakimi]

This channel discusses, and thus the video is focused on, classic menswear / tailoring. Some of the advice is very relevant to more casual styles, too.

1. Don't be overly fussy / obsessive.
2. Don't wear stubby / short / terrible collars.
3. No short socks. (They aren't talking about no-shows or crew socks, they're talking about the low ankle socks that always look bad)
4. Don't wear a lapel notch that goes above your shoulders.
5. Don't wear a "superhero suit" -- IE a suit that's way too tight to show off muscles.
6. Don't wear a button stance that's too high.
7. Don't neglect your shoes.
8. No big armholes.
9. Don't cheap out on ties. Obviously avoid polyester, silk isn't too expensive. They recommend some good, pretty affordable brands.
10. Do a "sitting fitting" -- make sure that your jackets (and everything else) still fits when you sit down.
11. Don't wear a collar gap.
12. Match your belt to... Your shirt or trousers. (They didn't quite seem to be on the same page here, there's a bit of back and forth between this and the classic rule).
13. Don't over-accessorize.

Their next video is going to talk about ill-conceived "rules" that you can totally break.

[u/kakiboum]

His french channel is amazing. He gives so many good advices.

[u/ZonardCity]

I watch Jacomet's channel in french, and he's very well-spoken ! I like to run his podcast as a background noise. But, and I don't know if that translate in the english version and it may just be me, there are some hints of elitism (conservatism perhaps ?) in his views that bothers more a little.