All about City Trousers: A Talk with Julien Scavini

good afternoon ladies and gentlemen and welcome to this new episode of sartorial talks live from bourgoin france in our living room today we have a special guest is my friend julian cavini jr is quite famous in france because first of all is a great tailor but it was also very majoritized with a tv show an important tv show on national tv about couture of course so it's a great pleasure for me to receive julian today to speak about the subject that will interest you i'm sure because today we're going to focus only on trousers you started your business in 2009 just after quitting the school and then it evolved into a tailoring shop custom-made shooting and then in 2014 we you decided to create a company which is both brick and mortar let's say physical and online which is the big business for you for ready to wear trousers and it's the same the same address cabinet.fr so are you shipping abroad a lot a lot i'd not known yes not now but uh 10 in uk yes that's a fair amount okay we we export a lot to in you in usa usa i think yeah los angeles in peable beach okay we have a cloth here who buy some of the trousers to sell in his shop okay i didn't know that in quebec we have a closer two but small amounts this is just of course let's now define the words because in america specifically in america when something is not a gene and something is not a suit they call it a chino so can you tell us the difference because because if i look at all the beautiful trousers we're going to look at many trousers in front of us and try to describe them to give you a sense of the possibilities you you have in in in this is ready to wear they used to say you can buy this off not of the rack on the internet or of the rack from your place but uh why do they call this a chino what is the the most classic what the americans are calling chinos i i think a chino of for french is a trousers yeah city trousers cut in cotton okay the difference between a titty trousers and a denim or jean is a way to cut the trousers and to cut a pocket on the jeans you have rounded pocket in the front yeah and patchat pocket at the back yes a city trousers it's much more rough raffined refined refined refined refined that's a chino what that's a typical chino abs for me yes yes such a typical classical they call it a key a khaki too because originally it is it's a piece of clothes which is born in usa and previously and previously yeah the the cotton canvas was slightly green because of the military news with dreams absolutely they still now they they give the name khakis just to the to the the two names in the usa it depends on the brand yes sometimes i call khakis yes and in in inside you can find that colors sand or blue but it is the name khakis and sometimes you can find the name chinos okay it depends of the brand in fact so because for me i'm not a specialist of trousers but i'm kind of passionate with tailoring and everything for me a chino is this exactly absolutely this is the classic perennial typical chilo so describe it a little bit in terms of pockets and everything what do we have here that trousers is front plane yes because the fact of a chinos can be plain or pleated okay you can have the both after that the pocket on the trousers is in the seam on the side almost undetectable the other way to do it is slanted yes it's much maybe another another way yes comfortable at the same way as this one and at the back you can find piping pocket with a button okay two because there is symmetrical way okay voila and i like to do a ticket pocket or watch pockets there is a different name just in front or a secret pocket or hidden pocket or whatever you call it maybe for a credit card or small thing yeah yeah yeah absolutely so that's the yeah that's really you say the perennials that's a good name for that uh on that you know there is loop for belt you can find some some trousers with side adjusters too yeah we will show them later yeah and and and voila okay a classic and this one is cotton 100 percent but in my opinion this is not too much for summer because it's kind of tight a little bit you know you can it can be worn in summer of course because the cotton is efficient uh during whole weather you can wear it in in the winter or in summer it's slightly the same thing you can find chinos for the winter slightly more evie yeah and maybe for summer slightly more light but the problem of the cotton which is light white it creases a lot and it's not really beautiful okay okay okay so this one is a plain front plain front okay and then for all your wand okay so that's cotton now let's take another one for example let's take something more for summer you have something more summery i have this one yeah that's not a snow that's what a trousers this is the truth a regular trousers or maybe in america pants yeah i don't know they can say pets in america not in the uk they don't like it sorry everybody if i do this it's because everybody knows sonya my beautiful wife and she's our fact checker and advisor and we always when i take risks with words i always look at senator is that correct darling so pants in america we can say so that's not a chino because it's a different kind of fabric right absolutely it is a city pants in hundred percent well yeah but it is not a regular rule it is a tropical or cool rule because the the the in france we say okay there's a the way to to fabric yeah the fabric to do the wet absolutely and if you do that in in a light yeah you can see through oh okay wow so it means that people have the false belief that wool is only for winter it is not no you can this is typically for summer right absolutely it is a breathable rule it it can breathe the hair yeah and if there is some wind yeah you win you will feel it okay so this is not a chino this is we could say a city pant we can call it a city pant a hot pant or hot pant you can wear this with a with a polo shirt absolutely or a grey jacket or white jacket it is extremely light actually absolute hand is very interesting generally the tropical wool or cool wool yeah that that fabric particularly is comes from vitale ball belliscano nico which is an italian mill yeah very famous well as that fabric is called tropical rustic because the density of the thread yeah is in a way it doesn't crease and i haven't i haven't got the english word for that yeah but says in french how do you say um it is two ply or three ply i don't know for that fabric in particular but if you do that that even comes back yeah this is incredible it's fantastic for traveling we it's fantastic for someone look at that i can look at that i do this how'd you say snap back back that is to say you do this and up and it's not crazy okay maybe slightly but well it's a natural it's a natural fabric and it's nothing yeah no no not too many it's in the finishing process so that's the city pant we still are front the frame abs plane in front because i produce with loop for belt or with side adjusters yeah but by now the french prefer the loop the loop i think i think it's kind of international thing because maybe i'm the only one who prefers uh suspenders braces or uh side adjusters now now let's move to something else let's move to this green one this one is it's uh we maybe we we jump directly on the this is a lot of different things we absolutely this is another cut i produce yeah which is called the s4 cut yeah okay and this is a plane with two two pleats absolutely this is much more there is much more styling that trousers okay because there is side adjusters in place okay so that's what we call side adjusters you know if you don't like like yours truly to wear belts i often use this it's a side adjuster and it's very very useful because uh well i prefer it i like it but so this one is a little it's immediately more stylish we it's a little bit more than the yes absolutely and there is there is button for yeah for suspenders absolutely if you want that that particular shape is much more for maybe if you go to pity woman yeah if you like pity one more or if you really like to dress voila absolutely absolutely it's a testimony of style and it's funny because the pleats ah when they are two pleats they are inside absolutely they go inwards and we'll see later when there are one plate there you grab them outwards so there are probably some reasons for that hello historically you can find both from the beginning of the century yeah after that taylor orphan bishop taylor often do in words okay it's classical in france or in uk or or in italy they do in that way okay when's the ready to wear the italian ready to wear in the 80s like armani the big brown yeah you know it's a big luxury brand when when they put the pleated trousers on fashion trends in the 80s the pit was where uh because maybe i think for ready to wear often it is much more the shape is much more delicate and and how do you say net in english it's very neat neat outward okay maybe yeah yeah yeah maybe but we arrived to do that correctly so that's two two pleats and show me your one pleat hello one painting just over there with this one sorry it's a mess it's a mess on my table i'm sorry i'm always looking at the wrong camera it's a mess on my table but you know what i'm happy the more there's mess the more means that we are working with something absolutely so what is that is that another cut from my collection this is a f3 so you have s1 s2 s3 s4 so we're going to redefine that's a high rise trousers with an extended belt so it's high-waisted we and the extended belt here which is a fancy tip this is beautiful so this one is only one please one pre-tap it's going outward so it's higher waisted than this one we absolutely this is a slim hero line and this is much more much more english line okay so this is a little bit like a great gatsby kind of yes that one too yeah that one so this one it's more like you really want to be dressed with refinement absolutely most of the time you sell this to the people who are already quote and quote in the style arena or in the know we we cut s1 and s2 with belt is slightly more conventional yes much more classical yes with belt and in a shade of colors from gray to blue not really fancy classic absolutely and the s3 and s4 with split are much more appealing with fabric a bit fancy you can see here this is the blend of fool and silk for summer yeah that is a blend of lean and silk and cotton for the silicon cut absolutely and the two blend comes from the vintage collection from because vitale balbalis produced only for that collection oh wow that's cool tell us about why do we put silk into uh trousers is it there's a reason for that right absolutely because in in fabric for the winter you put cashmere yeah for the softness yes and for summer you put silk the silk is a cashmere of summer because it adds a little something different a little it's about the shine it's about the touch it's about it's about the shine and the smooth because all often in in blend for summer uh you can put cotton yeah or wool but often you you add linen and the linen is really fresh and breathable yeah but he has a slightly problem yeah which is uh it's wrinkling we absolutely yeah and we had silk to contour to to understand so you add a little bit of silk in the linen and it makes the linen less drinkable absolutely well even if it's still wrinkles because it for me it took me ladies and gentlemen so long to accept to have a wrinkled pair of trousers and a wrinkled jacket and believe me i have a massive wardrobe but it took me i think i had to wait probably six or seven years before i was able to accept the fact that linen wrinkles it's just a fact and actually now you know what i love the charm of it because a linen which is not wrinkled for me is not only known but i am wearing a pant today which is a is this one that fabric absolutely that fabric so it's a mix of linen silk and cotton so and it's very agreeable oh absolutely and so you have the properties of the linen but with the silk and the cotton is very very there is 55 linen 25 silk this is the big amount of fair amount of silk and 20 percent cotton which is a base okay stable okay let's continue a little bit on fabric did we see everything that we had here no there is also that's that's for summer that for winter yeah that's a slightly tweedy fabric yes like donegal because there is a small dot in there so that's a fabric that's for winter for sure absolutely this is the blend of wool and cashmere made by i think it was i i bought it i brought that that fabric to deep deep which is a meal in the part of italy near the lake of coma so that's a typical uh winter absolutely there is you see the the form of flannel pants but it's not it's not flannelly yeah but it looks like flannel they have the flannel can i say to the gentleman i've seen so many people in the usa where i live a few months per year with my wife of course because we're family there and i've seen so many people even in other countries with this fashion of casual friday and they always put the chinos you know cotton chinos even give flannel a chance i mean a pair of trousers in front and all of a sudden it's another world absolutely right and it's at your place is it barely it's pretty much the same price it's not the same absolutely yeah because we are talking about trousers that you play that are let's say if we speak in euros between 110 euros to 250 let's say the whole range so if we translate this in dollars it would be between 150 dollars to maybe 400 maximum something plus the v80 of course so but it's not crazy pricey this is very affordable for you you call it premium trousers right i try and not luxury but i try to do really something nice yes and and in the time you can find the same cut yeah if you if you re back years after use the cut is the same because the big problem client says to me when they go to ralph ryan or hackett or tommy hilfiger yeah or big brown yeah this big bronzer as i find the perfect cut yeah a season yeah two season afters i read back to find new trousers yeah and the cut is not the same it's really difficult to have the stability yes then i have four cut plus a gorka cut and a shortcut yeah and i try to do the same and to be to be consistent voila and and and that's that's really the way clients love it because they buy one or two trousers in the winter they'll be back for the summer oh okay i know the cut is s2 yeah what have you got what is the fabric you have now yeah they take two or three and after that years after years they can be in the same cut but that's very interesting ladies and gentlemen specifically gentlemen because you see all of a sudden even if you don't want to go okay i encourage you to buy beautiful suits to go custom shooting julianne is primarily a suit maker and a code maker but he specializes he open a second company in trousers and if you don't want to wear the tie and the jacket and the full suit at least buy beautiful city pants like that at julian or elsewhere because it changed the overall look look at that this is a glenn plaid we call it absolutely this is oh my god this is beautiful it's a flannel i i if i if i remember i i bought it to solbiati which is a brand of floral piano yeah yeah it's just beautiful and i i cut it with two pleats two pleats yes a fly a button absolutely yeah and only one with a zip we okay so it depends but that cut with two two-fold two complete and side adjusters it's more beautiful so i was saying give those trousers a chance because even you can wear this with a polo shirt or with a we don't you don't have to wear a tie you know a lot of ties but you can really upgrade your game uh and really be i mean it's it can be very important for some meetings or stuff like that to have just a beautiful pair of trousers because sometimes people say to me you go you're an old-fashioned french man you speak about shooting about ties but all that stuff but my client at my bank now he comes in his bermuda and in flip-flops so if i'm too much you know tied up and suited up maybe i'm not really online and he will not give me his money that might be okay i can listen to that even if in my opinion a guy totally suited up will all well it's just my opinion i think it's still a value but if you are in this kind of business and you know the standards are loosening a little bit this kind of city plans are so much more interesting really then okay i don't want to kill your business about chino like that but that's boring for me it's it's okay it's the market it's the first step yeah and after that you can go to tweet to flannels yeah it's the first step okay i understand what you say if somebody is moving from gene he can take this as the first step but if you are wearing this since a decade you know every friday please go to something else this is this is the first step for me now yeah yeah maybe oh yeah but at the same time i just encourage people and that's what i want to explain to the people that they can really for the almost the same price have different fabrics different thing and express a little bit their personality with beautiful things and then julian we have this one that i'm looking at the corduroy like a cream corduroy it reminds me my dad it was you know in the 80s 90s a lot of men were wearing corduroy like that for the winter english taste yeah exactly very very uh very warm and at the same time sporty but kind of dressy at the same time very versatile but this one looks so very so it's called a gorka gorka so this is the craze ladies and gentlemen in europe i don't know if it i think it's just if it rich america maybe it is the crazy from some people who like to dress in a stylish manner so explain to us because that's a very complex i always say with this kind of pants you have to take time when you in your restaurant when are you in a restaurant and then you have you have to pee very fast because there's a lot of people because there's a line there's only one toilets free if you have a pants like that uh good luck there is a flight there is a fly up fully okay sometimes you have to button and you have people knocking at the no this is okay anyway sorry for this story the goalkeeper the gorka is a resume regiment of english soldier yes from the himalayas oh wow so you have some kind of a higher voila absolutely the waistband is six centimeter no not four yeah and you you see there's two extensions yes and there is the first one goes into here voila and the second one goes at the opposite side and there is some side adjusters to finish and there is an extension some small holes to adjust after that and there is two pleats wow this is kind of neat i must admit we it it's a very stylish absolutely when you wear only for the first twin for winter because this is trousers for winter yeah when you wears were hit with a sweeter yeah with a nectar to yeah for example or in summer in a blend for summer only with a shirt yes it is really stylish and and enough yeah yeah for example you can have pair this because you have several colors i suppose many many colors so you can have a dark corduroy gorka pen that's it this is the same car trousers and you can have a little um turtleneck or a mock neck i love mock neck we sweet it's called colchamini we can keep mock neck in cashmere for example and then a beautiful pair of penny loafers and you're good to go and you're good to go with the blue zone uh this is very interesting so it changes it it brings something to your to your clothes yeah bring something to your style yeah what i try to explain to you gentlemen is that you don't have to go the big extra mile immediately if you want to upgrade your game just with a nice pair of trousers at julian or other places and you will see that just this with a good pair of shoes a nice polo shirt or a nice mock neck or turtleneck and you're good to go i think generally people don't have enough trousers yes they have one or two denim yes one chino yeah maybe one great cheap trousers and i think if the morning when you wake up and you think about what you will wear today yes if you have a big range of trousers in your wardrobe if you can find a cavalry twill grey that's very cool a twitter i love every every every trousers you can find yes in red or blue or shade of gray if you find the perfect trousers firstly mainly yes after that you can constrict build yeah a nice a nice cloth outfit for the day yeah and i think this is the first thing and often people don't have enough trousers and trousers are not very expensive in comparison to suits and uh jackets of course so that's a very good piece of advice so let's go back to wrap up all this to uh the the cuts you offer at scavini which are kind of classic we can say we are in the classic realm quality but classic so you have your s one is the classic cut absolutely it's this one maybe the the s1 and the s2 yeah sure practically the same uh so it's a play in front absolutely look at it we absolutely with loop four belts okay it is the same looking okay but the shape is slightly different okay the s1 is slightly more slim so close the side is a little bit closer slightly lower on the waist okay and the leg is now yeah narrow okay and the s2 is just more classical classical with the twist with a little bit more a fuller leg we absolutely so if you want to be a little bit more let's say young modern and sporty you can go to s1 if you want to be really classic s2 and both of them they have no pleats absolutely and so and then the s3 is with i suppose one split absolutely the s3 is high-waisted yes yeah with one plate absolutely and side adjuster and side adjusters no belt loops absolutely okay and then you have the s4 which is here there yeah two pleats two pleats side adjusters and a fly uh oh not on this one yeah um and that's it and a short and a short for summer i i i don't bring a short today but my shot is really really stylish which is the the band of waist is slightly higher yes i rested two buttons to close it in front so the side adjusters yes there is scuff at the knee and there is some flaps on the pocket oh wow this is really really nice trousers really different of all the trousers you can all the shots you can find that's cool so to wrap up this thank you for all this this is very interesting and you see once again i heard so many people saying okay a pair of trousers is a pair of trousers after all you know it's just you know it's trousers you're not gonna make a big deal because of a pair of trousers it's like everything in style and everything in menswear and i said when you start to deep dive into a subject you can find a lot of subtleties a lot of details a lot of things that ultimately will make a huge difference because you know you can find your way and your style so if you are if you only wear jeans or denims you can of course go with a khaki to start with or a chino in cotton but then i really strongly encourage you to try some other kind of material either for winter or for summer and you will see that little by little city pants are on a very very interesting subject and it can really add something to your game i want to finish this episode on trousers who is asking jillian what would be your advice so i i started to answer it with what i just said but okay if i have a big belly what is the best cut at julian's caving well i said not a big belly if i have a beer belly everybody has a little bit of a beer belly after a certain age i'm a little rounded you know at the wrong time pretty difficult for that i think the first advice is to wear the trousers where at the good high i mean where are you comfortable way absolutely if you think it's better to have under the belly yeah slightly uh low rise yeah i think it's good yeah and with a good belt yeah it will work it will work what you try to say that don't wear something you're not comfortable with the problem is often i see people come in the boutiques they they bought trousers high rise and and they they they wear it on the stomach let it fall and it is not really beautiful yeah i think if you want to wear under to to to to wear under the belly yeah you have to buy low rise yes and if you want high rise trousers yeah as you yeah suspenders yes it is by far better yeah yeah i can tell you this is so comfortable because there is and you have a line because the trousers is hanging yeah yeah well i can tell yeah i can do high waisted trousers these days because i lost weight and i'm fitted this day so i hope it will continue but i agree with you because there's some people they're a little bit dogmatic okay okay you should have your trousers high if you're in the sautorial crowd and all this is not very interesting just wear what you're comfortable with and uh and and also it's it's very important that it's it's the most important because if you don't feel comfortable in your trousers uh it's it's uh it you don't you're not gonna have a knife if you are in a question of style yeah and you think about that a lot yeah you will do it perfectly yes with suspenders or not yes but if you are not in a too much uh thinking about that yeah just be comfortable yeah and and and and do that in the good way it's true to do that but i i think uh not to trip trousers yes not not to crease trousers you have to hire on it sometimes yes of course you have to do that clearly and and um with taste yeah yeah but what i can say is that the only fact that this trousers has been cut by a tailor-like or designed by your tailor like julia makes the whole difference because all your trousers whether is the normal chino up to the double pleats etc has been designed by you so you have a real know-how how to make we call it tombe how it fits the falling looks you know and it can make a huge difference thank you so much julian that was very interesting very very interesting moment to spend together and i hope ladies and gentlemen we're going to look at this camera for the for the end that you appreciated the presence of this man is a well of science in terms of tailoring and i think that his english was quite okay okay you have quite a strong french accent i must say but i can speak like that me too it's a not a very good uh it's not a big problem for me to have that accent too much yes but you did a good job for that so thank you so we hope you appreciate it so the address is scavini we're going to put it on uh the screen scaveni.fr from for france you can order safely of julia we have it's not affiliate link i'm not going to make money on the okay we have no business relationship together it's just that we like his work and i i like to make this clear because some people say okay if you click there we got an affiliate pick no we don't have well maybe we can talk tonight that's another subject and i'm joking we have no affiliate link so but i know his product is very good and it's an extremely good value for the problem we're talking about between two around 200 bucks for very stylish things maybe you have to to add a little bit of custom you know because this day it's a little bit more difficult to send to the us but still or to the uk or to asia okay because i know we have subscribers and watchers from all around the world so but i really encourage you whether if you already in this tutorial world to just diversify your wardrobe and try a jacket without pants because i was not very good at that and i started really to become better and better every day and if you are the beginning of your tutorial ladder of your social learning curve i think it's a good start i often have this question uh mr jacomay i can't go to this to the to the to the office with the suit because everybody's laughing at me and everybody say you want to be the boss or you want to have a higher salary or do you go to a wedding afterwards or do you want to be to do you have a negotiation for your salary to have you know to have more money no so if you are a little bit shy about that try with beautiful pants a nice polo shot it can be a good first step is that correct some nice shirts and some nice trousers and that's it and you're good to go okay ladies and gentlemen thank you julia it's always a great pleasure to have you we give you an appointment to the next episode of certain talks in the meantime is not because you are working from home that you have to stay in your sweatpants all day long so dress up even if a little bit because i give you a secret even your wife or the people who visit you they will be happy to see you a little bit more dressed than only being relaxed the whole day in your flip-flops and your sweatpants but it's your choice after all see you my friends bye-bye

Channel: SARTORIAL TALKS

Views: 33,071

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Id: z_ZLkkfBY8Y

Length: 34min 53sec (2093 seconds)

Published: Sun Oct 31 2021