Why are Suit Pockets so Important?

hello ladies and gentlemen hello my friends and welcome to this new episode of sartorial talks today we're going to continue our ongoing series of all the different details that you can find on the suit and specifically on jacket and coats and tonight we're gonna focus on a very important feature on every gentleman's jacket or coat i want to speak about the pockets i remember i think it was three or four years ago my good friend g bruce boyer wrote a spectacular article for the big black book of exquire and i think the title was pocket madness and he was telling the story on how now we're in this new era of classic men's style people have a tendency to put pockets everywhere and how pockets are becoming an extremely important feature on the on any gentleman jacket and suits by the way i remember it very well because i asked him the the authorization to translate it into french and so i really laughed a lot because you know bruce is such a good writer and he was just explaining that now you have basically pockets for everything tonight i want to revisit with you the basic the fundamentals because if some of you just do their first steps on the marvelous world of classic elegance and they want to go custom you're going to be harassed my friend by questions and sometimes it can be overwhelming because your tailor will ask you what kind of pockets do you want and i remember me the first time i was asked this question i said well i want pocket is a pocket for me for me that was just a pocket and so lorenzo was asking me uh she finally was asking me do you want flap bucket patch pocket jetted paquette and i just discovered i said oh my gosh there's a lot to choose from tonight i'm gonna explain to you the basic of this pocket business let's start with one of the most classic and simple that you find almost everywhere on suits and this is what we call a flap pocket okay so a flap well there's many many history you know in classic style as every subject in life i suppose there's a history behind every feature so the flap pocket was invented back in the years probably in great britain because pretty much everything about the modern suit was invented in the 19th century in the united kingdom and so the flap was to protect the pockets from the outside aggressions like snow rain but also dust you know anything because maybe in the 19th century the roads were not as clean as they are today and so something could have gone inside of that so this is why the flap is a protection basically but it became more and more some kind of an aesthetic touch and where if you don't ask not to have flat pockets it's most likely your tailor or your mate to measure salon will put on a flap pocket on your suit but there's one little trick with the flap pockets is that you can wear them flap or you can push them inside and wear it invisible you understand look at mine for example i have two flaps pockets here on this jacket by a digital quarry in napoli and i can do this and actually hide the flap if you want to have a cleaner line okay so two things on on this also you can choose whether it can be square mine is is straight or this one is slightly slanted we say you know you you can see it go a little bit upwards so you see only on the flap pocket you can use it or not use it you can put it straight you can put it a little bit slanted and it can add a little bit of style if you want something extremely classical flap pockets straight you are extremely classic but if you want something with a little bit of flare put your pockets ask your mate to measure salon or your tailor to put them a little bit slanted and it will add a little bit of style to your outfit so that's the first classic pocket on a man's jacket then you have my favorite it's what we call jetted pocket in i love the french words called pasporelli perch passporte i like this the music of it so it's a jetted pocket well it's basically a pocket without any flap and uh well i must admit i'm a little obsessed with that because i i am so involved into classic style i am so passionate about bespoke terroring and i love to work with my tailors now i have several tailors but my historical taylor lorenzo chief only in paris we've been speaking a lot about that and i like that my specifically when i'm fit which is the case this day sometimes a little bit bigger but these days are a little bit i'm fit so i like my line not to be you know um annoyed with a flap so i prefer to wear it like that without any flap but this is just a personal taste and on top of that if you have a flat pocket you can hide them so it's just you know which is probably my obsession but i love it because you can have the beautiful details you know how it is stitched you know you can add a little bit of personality here so this is the second called the jetted pocket and then we go to italy because the third pocket is i mean you can find it in france or in the uk of course but it's coming from italy it's what we call a patch pocket and i'm going to show you here i got a beautiful sport jacket by my friend chiardi in napoli so patch pocket is it's self-explanatory the two other pockets are inside you don't see them literally this one is outside you can see the pocket so it's literally patched on the jacket this is why we call it a patch pocket and you see this is a typical neapolitan jacket neapolitan they they love to have all these kind of little idiosyncrasies on their jackets and this one for example a patch pocket as normally if you do it right according to the neapolitan gospel of jacket making it has to have the form of a glass of brandy in france we rather say a glass of cognac and in italy they call it tasca di pinata pinata in in in italian it's been a cooking pot so imagine you see the the the shape you put a stem and you have a little glass of brandy or cognac that's the name of this pocket which well normally it's a little bit more sporty it's less business and formal than a flat pocket or a jetted pocket but this is purely italian one little trick i was always interested to know how a tailor is positioning at what hate is positioning this pocket uh our friend nunzio pirozzi at satoria dominico pirozzi in nepal has a theory and that is safe for him there's no negotiations possible you have to position your pocket at four centimeters from the bottom of the jacket here it's a it's a crd another great neapolitan tailor they have a tendency to rather put it a little bit lower at three centimeters from the bottom let's say between three and four centimeters you can't go wrong with a patch pocket and when we are in nepal let's stay in napoli and we go to the breast pocket okay chest pocket or breast pocket we can stay boast i have a tendency to say chest pocket but so people say breast pocket okay as you can see on those two they are a little bit curved but this one is more curved it's what we call i want you to really see it because it goes like really like that you know it really makes it it has a beautiful curve this is what we call in italian i love to say it in italy i have impression i'm almost speaking italian lavarketa mamma milia which means a little boat literally and so typically if you go to a neapolitan tailor it will if you ask for a patch bucket it will add this tascadi pinata and if you breast pocket of course you put a breast pocket he will do it will execute for you uh barchetta one other trick for you one other tip that you have to remember is the position of the breast pocket because i've seen my friends some catastrophes in my life some people were putting the the the breast pocket literally close to the shoulder or even worse too low so that you can't even wear a pocket square because you said why this guy is putting his his pocket here is very strange so rule of the thumb you take the the the under of the armhole and on a straight line this is where naturally a breast pocket should be positioned by your ma to measure salon or of course by your tail just use the rule of thumb just you know on the same line as you actually on this side for me you under arm and then you see the the pat the breast pocket is well positioned so let's move to this jacket so this jacket has a flaps but you can see another pocket here this is what we call a ticket pocket so ticket pocket was very popular specifically before the invention of the internet before we had cell phones before we had you know dematerialized monet before we were using only credit cards and even now our phones to pay at the grocery store back in the years and not so long ago we used to have small coins pennies dimes and nickels always in our pocket so and we need it for example in paris or even in new york to have tickets for the metro this is why we call it ticket pocket it's basically to put all these small things you don't really know where to put them and then this is a we say in in italian this is why you put your little bordello your little messy stuff you know and uh and it's very handy if you still use coins for example or even some a clip for your um banknotes personally uh i thought i want um when with sonia we prepared this episode uh she asked me you have to show the flat pocket the jetted pocket slanted or not slanted and the patch pocket and also don't forget the ticket pocket and i was sure i didn't have one suit or jacket in my wardrobe with a ticket pocket because i don't really use this i'm the kind of man i don't go outside too much with banknotes and and things in my pocket actually i tried to have nothing in my pocket and then i remembered this sport jacket by nh satoria in milano made in puglia the workshop is in puglia the south of italy and without asking me they put a ticket pocket so i'm so happy to have one because actually this is the only one of my wardrobe and it was useful for me to have it in order to explain to you about the use of this ticket pocket and now we're going to finish with this curiosity and this is a curiosity which is very interesting because um it's from chief only it's one of my favorite sport jacket and this one is a curiosity i just wanted to show it to you because it's a very rare rare things to see it's a jacket with three patch pockets everything is patched and you see the even the patch pocket here has been designed reverse nobody goes like that this one goes up like that and on the on the on the chest uh it goes on the other side so it's very interesting bucket is a very rare things to see a breast pocket made out of a patch pocket but i wanted to show you that so that's for the outside of the jacket now let's move quickly and finish with the inside because i remember my friend g bruce boyer in this famous article called the pocket madness he was speaking of a travel jacket made by one tailor i don't remember which one which was featuring 18 pockets can you believe that there were pockets literally everywhere it reminds me a little bit this you remember this photographer uh vest you know when photographer or cameraman used to have batteries here and pocket there now you can find this specifically into the travel jacket this is the kind of jacket that tailors are crafting for people who are traveling and they ask for many many pockets let me open one let's let's try to open this one okay this one by chief only in paris i want to show you inside also that's a classic nothing special but one first thing i want you to remember immediately i don't know if it happened to you it happened to me several times actually and to have to meet some pit pockets so i mean to meet quote unquote because of course i didn't see them and i didn't have this little feature you see this triangle this is nothing my friend to ask your tailor or your mat to measure salon and if they don't uh suggest this to you you have to insist put this little triangle and a button so that your pocket is protected if somebody wants to put the hand inside he can't because there's this little thing it's it's it's nothing it's a few minutes to do this but it can really really be important in terms of security uh well this is a parisian tailoring jacket so in paris we have the we are used to put this here for a pen and i like to have this little thing even if i don't always put my pen here it's very handy to have a place for your pen and then of course you have this hidden pocket well now it's no more hidden because i tell you but in most of the jackets uh on on men's style at a certain level and specifically on made to measure and of course on bespoke you can put your it's what we call a cell phone jacket personal or it can be also for a small um um portfolio we say in front for a small wallet very thin personally i'm not fond of putting things inside my pocket to be really honest actually i try not to put anything in my pockets in order to protect the line of my suit i prefer to have a little bag or something to carry but if you prefer to have your things inside the jacket make sure that this one can be closed you can have this one for the pen and of course this one for your uh cell phone or for your wallet if you want and on the other side generally you have just another pocket but of course if you go bespoke you can ask crazy things to your trailer you can ask him to do some i even have a pea coat me with a with a pocket a hidden pocket inside with a zipper here which is very handy when you want to put some money directly in it so you see you can really ask anything about the pocket but remember one thing here we speak about style and so the importance of pockets is it's more important than you can imagine a flat pocket creates a different mood than a jetted pocket a slanted pocket creates a more dandy-esque more refined look than a straight pocket less business a little bit more refined let's say uh if and patch pocket create something a little bit more casual if you want to be very strict you want a real business suit you know to interact for big contracts or have some meeting with big client don't go with patch pocket patch pockets is for a more relaxed look or of course if you live in a place which is quite hot and warm you can go for a patch pocket if you wear your suit of your or your jacket without a tie for example you see everything is about the balance everything is about the detail and that's the magic of classic style and that's why all of a sudden you will see but i have to warn you if you really step into this world you will become passionate i'm sure and i know so many people me included i'm the first of them uh where i'm obsessed about the pockets about the lapels i think but that's what makes this thing so pleasurable so beautiful and so enjoyable i give you an appointment to the next episode of tutorial talk we're going to continue our journey inside all the details of this tutorial world and in the meantime stay safe and see you very soon my friends bye [Music] you

Channel: SARTORIAL TALKS

Views: 21,207

Keywords: pocket, pleat pocket, fold pocket, patch pocket, ticket pocket, suit pocket, suit pockets, bespoke suits, what suit pockets

Id: b7FYM9D_Ezo

Length: 18min 41sec (1121 seconds)

Published: Fri Apr 02 2021