HOW TO BUILD A SHED, PT. 1 : Framing The Floor, Walls & Roof plus Siding

what's going on everybody I'm Johnny Brook welcome back to another crafter workshop video and welcome to my backyard so in this two-part video series I'm going to show you guys how I built this 4 by 8 lean-to shed part one I'm gonna cover building the foundation framing all the walls adding the siding and then finally framing the roof and then in part two I'm gonna be doing everything else including adding all the trim doing the roofing building these doors painting and then finally building this ramp this is obviously a pretty big project but I think it's a very beginner friendly project the tools I used on this build which were all from heart tools who is the sponsor of this series we're all very beginner friendly and it's a great kind of skill builder project and hopefully these two videos will help you guys build something like this in your yard so I guess without further ado let's go and get started with the project the first step in the shed build was getting the site prepped and the foundation laid and we had this little area next to our air conditioning units that ended up being pretty much perfect for shed this size and I started by staking out the rough footprint of the shed and to make sure the area I was marking out was square I pulled diagonal measurements with my tape measure from two of the corners and moved the stake on the opposite end of the footprint until those diagonal measurements matched up I actually placed these stakes at the exact corner locations of the foundation but I should have offset them outwards by about 6 inches just to give me a little wiggle room for digging out an area for the four by six kids which the shed will be built on which I needed to do next my initial goal when digging was to get the areas level left to right and I figured I could adjust the front to back level with the gravel that I'd be adding later and I used the four by six kids with a level on top of them to take my readings and just kept removing dirt until I got things nice and level once the areas were level I packed the dirt with the tamper to help keep the foundation from settling too much and then I started to adding gravel and gravel serves a few purposes here first it provides some drainage and keeps the skids from staying in contact with water for long periods of time after rain and that kind of thing second gravel doesn't compress like dirt does so it makes for a more stable foundation and last gravel is much easier to spread and level than dirt which is what you see me doing here as I had mentioned I had planed to level the skids front to back with this gravel but there was just way too much of a slope to do that with the gravel I had on hand so instead I just turned the back skid on its side and since it's a four by six this lowered it by about an inch and a half and this ended up making up the difference perfectly and then I could get the skids level and square to each other in that final position after double and triple-checking the skids for level and square I can move on to building the floor starting with the joists I used two by six for the joist and they were spaced at 16 inches on cinder which made for an extremely rigid and sturdy base for the shed I cut the two rim joists to their eight-foot length at the miter saw and then I could lay out the floor joist locations on the boards and if you've never framed a wall before generally this is the way in which framers lay out their stud and joist locations by measuring and marking the locations on one board and then transferring those marks to the other board with the two boards butted up against each other and this helps to reduce measuring errors and it's also just a lot quicker than pulling these measurements twice another common practice is to mark out where one side of the stud will go and then mark an X on the other side of the line where the stud should be placed and this again avoids confusion during construction but it also keeps you from having to mark both sides of each stud location which saves a lot of time when you've got a lot of walls the frame lasts I partially drove in three 3-inch screws in each corner of the rim joist so that I can have both hands-free when assembling the floor later next I cut the floor joist to size of the minor soft making sure they were all as close to the exact same size as possible and then I could assemble the floor framing I lined up the first floor joist with the corner of the rim joist making sure it was in line with the line I had added on the inside face of the rim joist and then drove in the screws making any necessary adjustments with a hammer in between adding each screw I repeated this process of the other three corners and unfortunately one of these rim joist had a decent amount of twist to it so I had to fight it a bit but eventually I got it assembled and then I could go back and add all of the inside floor joist using the same method once the frame was assembled I checked for square again by measuring the die signals and it was pretty much dead on next I got the floor position on the skids making sure the front rim joist was flush with the front skid and then I attached the framing to the skids using some metal brackets you could also just toast cruise through the joist into the skids but these brackets just make it a little easier to lock in the position without things moving around I added six brackets in total one at each corner and two at the center of each rim joist and then I called it a day for day one the next day I got started by getting the 3/4 inch plywood floor panel attached to the framing I first added some construction adhesive which I unfortunately ran out of halfway through so I switched over to using regular wood glue and then I could drop the plywood onto the framing I started by attaching two of the corners of the plywood making sure they were flushed with the framing using two and a half inch screws attaching the third corner locks in the squareness of the floor framing if I made sure it was flush with the edges of the plywood and then added another screw to lock it in finally I added a screw to the fourth corner and then I could add a bunch more screws along the edges of the plywood to lock it in place i spaced the screws roughly every eight inches around the perimeter of the plywood and then I used a chalk line to mark out the joist locations in the center of the floor and added screws spaced every foot there with that the floor was built so next I marked out the locations of the wall bottom plates again using a chalk line the inside face at the bottom plate should land three and a half inches in from the outer edge of the floor since I used two by fours for my walls and having these marks will give me reference points when attaching the walls to the floor later the next thing to work on was getting the walls framed and I started with the back wall here the back wall was framed exactly like the floor with 16 inch on Center spacing and I once again marked out my stud locations in the same way as on the floor then cut the studs to length using the miter saw before simply I crowned the studs meaning I check to see which way each stud curved along its edge and I faced this curve in the same direction on all of the studs luckily these studs were surprisingly straight for a construction lumber so there wasn't really much need for crowning them but it's good practice when building structures like this with the studs in place I could get the wall assembled and I again use three inch screws here but I only needed two screws for connection with these two-by-fours also I should mention that I spaced this shed off of my house about 15 inches and I definitely wouldn't build a structure like this any closer as assembly got really tricky as things like the roof framing moved closer to the house as the build continued once the back wall was assembled I moved on to the side walls and actually built these out of two by threes rather than two by fours and we're gonna be storing our trash cans in the shed and that extra two inches of floor space widthwise inside the shed were a necessity if we wanted to fit all three of our giant trash cans in comfortably instead of buying two by threes I actually ripped these down from some two by eights which are made of a much sturdier southern yellow pine and these 2x3 should be plenty strong for this kind of structure also you might notice the stud spacing is a little different on these side walls and that's how the studs line up with the vertical grooves and the siding panels I'm going to be using later while I'm building these sidewalls I want to take a second to talk about the sponsor of this week's video part tools part tools is a new line of tools sold exclusively by Walmart and their main focus is providing a great quality tool at a great value so as you've seen I've used nothing but Hart tools on this build and I've got to say I think they're perfect for the DIY or weekend warrior these tools have got plenty of power for all of your home improvement and DIY projects they have pretty much every tool you might need in there 20 volt line up so you can have everything on the same battery platform and Hart even has a 40 volt line of lawn and garden tools including a mower and chainsaw which you'll see in part two of this series if you want to learn more about all the Hart tools I used in this video check out the links in the description below and again big thanks to Hart tools for sponsoring this shed build series anyway once the sidewalls were framed I could frame the front wall which was a little different than the other two walls due to the door opening and whenever you have a door or window opening in a wall like this you need to add what's called a header which is basically just a beefed up piece to support the structure above this unsupported opening in the case of this door-opening the header is just two two by fours with a piece of half-inch plywood or OSB sandwiched in between and this brings the dimensions of the header up to three and a half inches square so it matches the rest of the studs I assembled the header with more three inch screws and then I could mark out the stud locations on the top and bottom plate of the front wall and the framing is also a little different on walls where there's a header as you need both a full-length stud right next to the header called the king stud as well as a stud that's cut down to support each end of the header called a jack stud I made sure to mark out these locations on the top and bottom plates and I like to mark J and K at these locations to indicate these are where the king and Jack studs are located with that done I could get the front wall assembled initially adding the two corner studs and the two king studs and it was at this point that I realized I had cut my header too short as I had cut it to the exact width of the door opening when it needed to be three inches wider than the door opening this wasn't a huge deal as I was gonna be building the doors myself anyway so rather than remake another header I just moved the king studs in an inch and a half on each side and moved along with assembly once those were moved in I could attach the header to the top plate and king studs with more screws and then I could flip the whole wall around to add the bottom plate last I added the two Jack studs which I cut to size after framing the rest of the wall with that all four walls were framed so I could move on to getting them attached to the floor and luckily I thought ahead here and realized that I would not be able to attach these siding panels to the back wall after getting the walls up so I first went ahead and added the double top plate to the back wall which was just another top plate on top of that first top plate and then I could get the siding panels attached to the back wall I also went ahead and painted these panels so that I wouldn't have to try to squeeze in and paint in the siding later and then I could finally attach the panels with more two and a half inch screws and these panels are offset from the top edge of the wall by half an inch to keep them from interfering with the ceiling rafters but the panels are flush with the sides of the wall also just like when I added the plywood to the floor framing adding this first panel to the back wall locks in the squareness of the wall so I made sure the panel was nice and flush with the edges of the wall before adding that third screw and then I came back and added more screws around the perimeter and in the center of the back panel to attach it permanently I then repeated the same process for the second panel which I evidently applied a heck of a lot more paint to since it's much darker also you might be wondering about the pretty sizable overhang at the bottom of the wall and I certainly could have cut down these panels a bit but I figured the shed would look better with more of that floor framing covered up so I just left these back panels full-length finally with those back panels in place I could start getting the walls stood up starting with that back wall and this wall had gotten pretty heavy at this point but I got it upright and positioned it so that it was in line with my chalk line and flush with the sides of the floor framing and then I attached it to the floor with more 3-inch screws I also made sure these screws went into the rim joist below not just into the plywood next I could get one of the side walls added and I realized that I hadn't accounted for my 2 by 3 sidewalls when laying out these chalk lines so I marked another line with my speed square before adding the wall I again attach it to the floor using 3-inch screws but I also attach the corners of the two walls making sure they were nice and flush and since that back wall was already locked in the square I could ensure that the side wall was also pretty much square by lining it up and attaching it to the back wall finally I repeated the same process for the other side wall and the front wall making sure all of the corners were aligned before attaching the walls with the walls up I could move on to adding the rest of the siding to the walls and to assist with this since the walls were now vertical I marked out locations in line with the bottom edge of the back panels and added a few temporary screws there to help hold the siding in place while I got it attached speaking of which next I could move one of the panels into place and get it attached to one of the side walls again making sure the edges were lined to ensure the wall was totally square I had screws roughly every foot along the edges of the panel as well as along the grooves in the center panel where there was a stud directly behind it I repeated the process for the other side of the shed and then I could go back and add the other double top plates which I had forgotten to add before the siding and these double top plates help to further lock the walls together by having the double top plate from the sidewalls overlap the front wall and as you can see I decided to use up some of the 2x4 offcuts for the double top plates on these side walls the front wall got a full length double top plate as I figured it would help strengthen that span above the header and then I can move back to adding more sighting this sighting on the front of the shed required a little bit more effort as it needed to be cut down first and the siding also needs to end one inch from the inside edge of the door opening to leave room for the doors to be added later after taking some measurements and marking out those reveals I cut down one of the panels using my circular saw first marking my lines using a drywall square I first cut the panel to length to fit the shorter length of the front wall and then I ripped off a long strip for the area to the left of the door opening and then a shorter strip for the area above the door opening with the pieces cut I got them installed using the same method as before also making sure the edges matched up with the reveals I had marked around the door opening previously the piece above the door opening was a little awkward to attach but luckily my ladder is pretty versatile and I figured out an orientation that let me reach the piece to finish up the siding install I repeated the process on the other half of the front of the shed and now that all the walls were locked in place with the siding I could cut away the excess bottom plate from the front wall using my reciprocating saw and this really opened up the opening into the shed the next structure to work on was the roof framing which had honestly been intimidating me a bit as I'd never done this kind of framing and it turned out to be pretty simple once I got my head wrapped around the angles but I was definitely glad to have some plans with a template for reference here and I'll link to the plans I used in the video description below this roof has a 4-12 pitch which means the roof rises four inches for every 12 inches of run which is measured from the front edge of the roof towards the back of the shed and this angle works out to eighteen and a half degrees which sounds pretty specific but luckily it's easy to mark out with a speed square by pivoting the square until the four on the common pitch scale on the square lines up with the edge of the board and you could certainly make these cuts with a circular saw but you're going to get a lot more consistency if you can cut your rafters with a miter saw that's set to match that for 12 pitch angle next I could lay out my bird's mouth and the plans also included a template for this so I could transfer those lines to my rafter and then redraw them with my speed square just to confirm everything the vertical cut on the bird's mouth which is called the heel cut matches that same eighteen and a half degree angle that was cut on the ends of the rafters and the horizontal cut which is called the seat cut is oriented at 90 degrees to the end of the rafter and this makes laying out these lines fairly simple with a speed square and the exact location and depth of your bird's mouth really just depends on the span between your walls after laying out the location I could cut the bird's mouth starting with the circular saw and since this saw blade is obviously circular it's not able to reach all the way into the quarter of the bird's mouth they needed to come back and finish the cut which I did with my jigsaw and I've seen this done a bunch of different ways including chiseling out the extra material but a jig saw worked great here as long as I set it up - the blade was perfectly square to the base I repeated the process for the bird's mouth at the other end of the rafter and then I could test fit the rafter on the shed the heel cut of the rear bird's mouth needed just a little bit more material cut away so the front bird's mouth would sit flush with the siding but I did that quickly off-camera but after a little bit of adjustment I had it fitting really well with this first rafter dial-in I could just transfer the bird's mouth locations and length of the rafters to the rest of my rafter boards and then get them cut with the miter saw circular saw and jigsaw while I was cutting the rafters to link to the miter saw I also extended the lines I had traced with my speed square so it would be easier to follow them with the circular saw and jigsaw I also wised up and clamp the rafters in place while cutting them this time and this helped a ton I repeated the process on the four remaining rafters and then I could line them all up to check them against each other and luckily the rafters looked great next I could mark out the rafter locations on the top plates on the front back walls and the rafter spacing here is 24 inches on center once again I marked an X on the side of the line where the rafter should sit to avoid confusion with installing them just like I did wooden framing the rest of the shed I attach the rafters to the top plates by toe nailing three inch screws and each into the rafter nice worked my way from one end of the shed to the other attaching the rafters as I moved along the last piece is dad to the roof framing were the sub-basin boards which attached to the ends of the rafters and these are definitely a little awkward to install but partially driving in the screws first really helped I use my speed square to make sure the top edge of the sub fascia was in line with the top of the rafter and then added two screws in the each rafter adding the sub fascia to the back end of the rafters was even more awkward since I was so close to the house at this point but luckily I came up with the idea of adding a few scraps to help keep the sub fish in position while I added the screws and my impact driver just barely fit in the space with my shortest bit but I eventually got all the screws added and I could call the roof framing done alright I think that's where I'm gonna end it for part 1 of this video again in part 2 I'm going to be covering doing all of the trim work adding all of the roofing building these doors painting the shed and then finally building this ramp so hopefully you'll stay tuned for that go ahead and ring that notification bellow so you don't miss that video also if you want to learn more about those Hart tools I use on this project as well as all the materials I used off links to those down in the video description below and last while you're here why not go ahead and watch another one of my videos that YouTube thinks you'll dig alright thanks for watching everybody and until next week happy building

Channel: Crafted Workshop

Views: 582,872

Rating: 4.9153185 out of 5

Keywords: how to build a shed, shed plans, diy shed, how to build a lean to shed, shed floor, how to frame a door opening, how to layout a wall, how to install sheet siding, how to build a shed floor, do it yourself, garden shed, how to frame a floor, floor framing, frame a shed floor, building a shed floor, diy shed building, diy shed house, diy shed foundation, diy shed roof, woodworking, crafted workshop, Diy, shed, build, build a shed, shed build, storage shed

Id: Wl4R9pnaxGQ

Length: 19min 13sec (1153 seconds)

Published: Sun Jun 21 2020