(uplifting music) - Welcome to countrylifeprojects.com. I'm Henry Reinders. This is video three of 15
videos in our shed project. I'm gonna be showing
you how build the floor in this video, but before we start I just want to emphasize
that it's really important that you take the time to make sure that your floor is square and level. Everything you do from the floor up will be much easier if you
take your time at this point. So, let's get started
with the floor framing. We are going to be going
over our joist header layout. There are a few things to do before you start marking out the lumber, though. In video two I had shown you how to select straight lumber. Now, realistically, no piece
of wood is perfectly straight, and when you're laying
out your joist headers you're gonna have to
first of all determine the crown of the wood. Now, what that means
is that over the length of the lumber you're
gonna get a bit of a wow. Some will be a little
bit more than others, but you're always gonna have a little bit. So, what you want to do
when you're laying out is pick up your joist header, look down, and see which way it's bowing, and then you want the bow upwards. The reason for that, once your
floor framing is assembled, and you have a little
bit of a crown this way, and the same thing will
apply to your joists. The crown will be that way. When you have the pressure of the building and the floor on top of
that, it will push down, and that will provide
a straight, flat floor. In addition to figuring out what part of the lumber has the crown,
and setting that up properly, you also want to check
the ends of your lumber before you cut them to length. A lot of lumber these
days is square on the end, but occasionally, depending
on where they're coming from, they won't be. So, when you're cutting
your lumber to length, it's important to check the
ends before you start cutting. So, you just check it, and if it's square, then you only have to cut off one end, but if it's not square,
then you're gonna have to trim off one of the ends, and
then take your measurement and cut the other end off. What this will do, when
your framing is put together it will provide a nice, square corner. So, it's important that you check that before you actually make all your cuts. These two pieces here have been cut. They are nine feet nine inches. They're three inches less than 10 feet. There's a reason for that. If you watch our shed
overview video, I explain why, and it has a lot to do with
saving money on materials when you get to the finishing
stages of your shed. So, it's very important that you go with nine feet nine inches. So, watch our intro, our overview video. You'll see why. So, the next thing we're gonna do. (metal clanking) Lay these out crowns up. We're gonna flush our
ends up, make sure they're flush on both ends,
exactly the same length. Again, that's important that
they're the same length, because that will determine whether or not you can square your shed off. If they're not the same
length, you'll never get your shed square. So, these are all ready to go, crowns up. The next thing I'm gonna
show you is a little trick. If you're not familiar with framing, or you haven't done a lot of it, you might want to put a
few markings on your wood that'll help you determine,
keep things accurate, and keep your joists lined up properly as you're laying it out on the location where you're gonna build your shed. So, let's do that next. Okay, if you're new to
framing, or if you haven't done too much of it,
you're concerned about laying everything out, putting
your joists on the ground, making sure they're the right way, that your studs are all
coming from the right end, I'm gonna show you a little trick. It's something that we learned in Europe when we were building
windows, but it can be applied to framing quite easily. You'll notice here that's
our 16 inch centers on 48 inches, 64. I'm just gonna put a little mark here, just so that we're in
the center somewhere, so we don't interfere with our layout. Put that aside, and take a black marker, and pointing, you want this to point to the front of your shed. So, the front is that way. So, we're just gonna put
a little arrow like this, and like that, and because
these are the crowns, we're gonna put a C there. If these were your joists,
you would just put a C, just like that. You wouldn't have to worry about that. So, now what this does is,
when you are laying these out, you make sure that these are like this. You can never go wrong. So, now that's done, let's get to laying out our actual joists. Before we start laying out
our joists on 16 inch centers, I want to show you the
best tape measurer to use. This is a framing tape measurer, our increments in sixteenths of an inch, and then we have large numbers
for our inch increments. We have a black marking
for one foot, and two foot, and so on, and we have a red marking for our 16 inch centers,
and that will continue down the tape measurer. You'll see here 32, and
if you keep going down, we have it at 48. You can see that there, and
that's all the way through the full length of the tape measurer. Makes it very easy to mark out your studs, or your joists, and it's very easy to see. Okay, we're gonna start laying
out our 16 inch centers. You want to start from
the front of your shed, and go back toward the back
of your shed laying out. Now, the first joist that's
gonna go on the end here, you don't need to mark that out. That's obvious. It's just gonna be flush with the ends of your joist headers,
and then you come to your first 16 inch centers. What you want to do is you
don't want to mark off 16. You want to go from the 16 inch centers, go back three quarters of
an inch, and mark that off, and then put an X there,
indicating that's the side that the joist goes on. Now, what's gonna happen
is once that joist is lined up to here, which
we're gonna mark off after, it's an inch and a half,
makes it exactly center. So, you could actually envision your joists sitting in here. Now, another thing to
consider, and we'll go over to this next one here. I'll show you something else. If you're left handed, you might actually find it easier to go to
this side of your center of your joist, and mark it off here, and put your X over here, but typically we go back, we don't go
forward of the center, but if you're left handed,
you may find that easier. So, that's your option. As long as you do it the
same on every single one you'll be fine. So, we're gonna go through. We're gonna mark all these off, and then we're gonna take
our triangular square, which is this here, and some carpenters like to call em tri-squares. The name you'll find in the
store is triangular square, sometimes a rafting square, maybe, but typically a triangular square. They're very handy. They're great for marking off angles, and they're great for doing
this kind of layout work. So, we're gonna go through. (metal clanking) We're gonna mark these all off, and then I'll show you
what we do after that. Okay, we're getting to
our last joist over here, which is very close to the end. Overall, we're about 21 inches from here to the end of our shed. We are going to put a joist in here, but because we're using
three quarter inch plywood on this shed, you don't really have to put that in there. It's gonna be toward
the back of this shed. It's not gonna be walked on. That's your choice. We will put it in, but
you don't really have to, as long you're using three
quarter inch plywood. And, that's it for marking off our joists. I'm just gonna draw some lines and square off some
lines, and I'll show you how to do that in a second. We'll go back to the other end. Okay, take your triangular square, put it on the outside edge. Run your line through with the lines that you marked off previously. This one here, that was
the one I showed you where you can do it left hand. So, in this particular case we just have to pay attention to that. What I'm going to do, just to make sure we don't have an error later, just gonna put that X line on the axis there so it's very obvious. We're gonna carry through. You only have to do the one side. Like I say, the only
reason I did that one there is 'cause we were showing
you how to do it left handed. Go through. Make sure you put your X's on there. Don't want to forget that. Do the end here. And, that's that for that part of it. One thing I should mention. You can also get these triangular squares in the larger version. So, if you're doing two
by twelves or two by tens, you might want to consider
buying a larger one. Small one's great for two
by sixes and two by fours. Now that we have our tops marked out, what we're gonna do is
we're gonna lay these down, and because they're two by sixes, we're gonna draw lines square down the inside face of our joist headers, and that's gonna ensure that when we're, and you want to put an X on these, that when we're laying up our joists that they're gonna be nice and square. Only takes a few seconds. Definitely worth it. So, go through and do that with all of em (metal clanking) on both joists. (pencil scraping) And, just continue through till you have em all done, and that's really all there is to laying
out your joist headers. (pencil scraping) And, it doesn't hurt to go back, especially if you're not
doing this every day, it doesn't hurt to go
back and double check, make sure you marked
everything off correctly. If you don't have em marked off correctly, then your plywood might not fit, and you might have an angled joist, and it's gonna prove to be a real pain. Okay, we've done our joist headers. They're laid out. We've also gone ahead, cut all our joists. They've all been cut on both ends. They weren't exactly square. There is small issue with that. I'll show you that in a minute. The markings that we
put on our joist headers are pointing toward the front of the shed. For those of you that
are using that feature, it's visible here, visible over here. Our joists we cut at seven feet six inches plus three inches for our joist headers makes seven feet nine inches. So, a total of seven
feet nine inches across, nine feet nine inches
long, and that allows for economical usage of materials when we get to the finishing stages of the shed, but before we start
assembly, I want to show you a couple items that you
should take a look at. Another consideration when you're cutting both ends of your joists, you're gonna be exposing the inner core
of the lumber, and today when they pressure
treat lumber penetration doesn't go that far. Used to be that this would be almost to the inner core of the
wood, but it's not anymore. So, if you're cutting
both ends of the joists, or even one end, and
you're gonna be on soil, sand, or grass, and you're not gonna be on a gravel base where the water
can drain away properly, you probably want to put a
good preservative on here, a good quality stain on
one end or both ends. If you cut both ends, that'll ensure that this won't rot as quickly,
'cause it's not protected. So, that'll be in all
the ends of you lumber, everywhere that is exposed
to that kinda weather water. Okay, the next issue
is not really an issue. It's just about having your
tools set up accurately. Particularly, your skill
saw or your miter saw, depending on what you're using to cut all your joists, studs. This will apply throughout
construction of the shed. I've cut this piece
here with an angle on it to show, and it's an exaggerated angle, just to show you what can happen if your saws aren't set up accurately. So, this is exaggerated. Keep that in mind. Pretend that this is the end
of any one of your joists, and if you are joining
them all to your header, and they had this angle, keep
in mind it is exaggerated, probably just a hair, but
just so you can see it I've cut it like that. Now, imagine if all your
joists were like that, and what's gonna happen is
when you screw this together all your whole frame will have a tendency to be out of square,
to pull out of square. So, when you try to square it up, it's gonna have that bit of pressure keeping it from doing that. So, make sure that your saws are set up 90 degrees and accurate. Check em. You know, do a few cuts,
check em, make sure. It'll make the whole job easier. It'll be easier to square everything up. That applies to the
deck here, deck framing, or the floor framing, and
also here walls, your roof, anything that you're
doing throughout the shed. Okay, we're ready to
screw everything together. Just one thing I wanted
to point out before we do. You can tell when you
loosely fit all your joists, and joist headers, right now
everything's pretty close. There are all fairly close to
the top of the joists here, and you'll notice, if you
look along the joists, that the gravel is touching
pretty much everywhere, and that's what you want
so that when it's finished your frame is hitting quite
solidly on the gravel. So, we're gonna start
screwing it together now, and I want to point out something about the screws you should be using. So, let's take a look at that next. For pressure treated lumber, you're gonna want to use screws specifically made for pressure treated lumber. These are ceramic coated. When you're going to the store, the packaging should say pressure treated, or approved for pressure treated lumber. They can be green. Some are brown. Just make sure that they are approved for pressure treated lumber. If they aren't, what will
happen is they will corrode. The preservative in the lumber will actually corrode regular screws. So, make sure you're using
pressure treated screws. These are three inch, and
we're gonna be putting the whole deck together with that. Okay, we're gonna start
screwing the floor together. Main thing is on the outside joists just make sure that's flush with the end of your header joists. Over here, this is where
our lines going down here will come in handy. We'll be able to just
square it up to there. What you want to do is you want to have a screw about three quarters
of an inch, inch from the top, and the same thing on the bottom, and one screw in the middle
for a total of three screws. We'll get started on that right now. Get it all flushed up. Flush on the top. (drill grinding) The nice thing about screws is they will pull the lumber tight
wherever you might have a little bit of a curved
board or a cut board. (drill grinding) Screws will pull that on nice and snug. You also
(drill grinding) will not have your frame move. If you happen to be
using a hammer and nails, and if you're using an air nailer, you don't get the same pulling power that you do get with screws. The whole shed will be
assembled with screws for the most part. There's very few areas
we will be using nails. (drill grinding) But for this part on here, I recommend starting on the top,
get the top flushed up, make sure you're on your line. (drill grinding) Get that in there. Once it's screwed on the
top, the one on the bottom, with the top being screwed
you can easily turn your joists all square. (drill grinding) Get that one in there. You just keep doing this with every joist. (drill grinding) Now I'm gonna go through, I'm gonna finish screwing our framing together here. Once that's done, we'll come back and we'll start the
plywood, and there's a few tricks there to be looked at,
and I'll show you that then. (mumbling) (drill grinding) (drill grinding) Okay we finished screwing
our framing together. The next thing we're gonna do is we're gonna square up the deck, and we're also gonna
make sure it's position is exactly where we
want it, and we're also gonna double check it for level. So, the next thing I'll show you is how to check to make
sure your deck is square. Okay, now that we've assembled the floor, we're gonna square it up. It's also a good time to
make sure that it's level, 'cause once the plywood is down, it's gonna be very hard, and
it's gonna be a little bit heavier to try and jiggle
this around, move it down. You won't have access to
the gravel to be able to add or take away. So, we're gonna square it up. I'm gonna show you how to do that. Also, you want to make
sure that it's positioned where you want it to be. So we've done that already. So, now I'm gonna show you
exactly what you got to do. For squaring up a floor like this, you'd measure from corner
to corner diagonally, and if the measurement
is the same both ways, then your floor is square. So, we'll do that. Take it right from the outside corner, come across, measure right to the point. We have 149 and three eighths there. We'll do the other corner. Come over to this point, and we have exactly 149 and three eighths. So, we are square, and we are
ready to go with our plywood. I've already checked it for level. Everything is level. So, the next step, I'll
show you a few tricks that are involved in
laying down your plywood. Okay, now we're gonna
be laying our plywood. It's very important when you're laying your plywood on your joists that you run the plywood across the joists, not in the same length or
the same way as the joists. That increases the strength of your floor, or whatever it is that
you might be framing. The other thing that's
important before you start. We've already squared this out. Just make sure, take a look down this line here on your floor. Just make sure this is
straight before you start. The other thing we're gonna be doing is we're gonna be gluing the floor down. So, that can get a bit
messy if you're not careful. So, what we're gonna do,
we're gonna snap a line at four feet, which is
the width of our plywood. We're gonna run it down the middle, and then we're gonna make
sure when we run our glue that we stay back from that line, which will prevent glue from being here, exposed when we lay the next sheet, or when we're kind of
banging the next sheet onto a previous sheet. So, that's really important. So, we'll get started with that snapping that line right now. I've already marked it off at four feet. So, we don't have to
worry about doing that. Set it up there. Bring it to this line
I marked off over here. Snap it off, and you know where
you have to stop your glue. So, we're gonna get the glue set up, come back and we'll start that, and show you how that's done. Okay, we're ready to glue. It's important to use the right glue for a subfloor, our plywood. Right now we're using PL 400. If you can't get that, PL
Premium is a good product. So is liquid nails. PL 400 is actually a
subfloor and deck adhesive. So, it's ideal for what we're doing. It's also very resistant to
any kinda moisture and water. So, we're gonna start with that. You want to have about a quarter inch bead in the center of your
beams, and your joists. You want to stay back about two inches from that line that we marked
and snapped off of there. (rocks scraping) I'll go around all the way, and you want to make sure that when you get to the joists where your
plywood joint's gonna be that you're not in the
center of the joist, but to the side that
the plywood's going on. That's this one right
here, and then a nice bead all the way down the outside. Okay, we're going to
be putting the plywood on that in a minute. So, we'll come back to this in a second. Okay, previously we snapped the lines so that you'd know where to put your glue on your joists. I want to show you the reason for that, is when you're putting your plywood down, if you have that glue extending past here in various spots, and you want to grab a two by four to be able
to bang the next piece on, in this case here it's not the case, but if you were doing more
sheets that will be the case. So if there's glue here, and you put your two by four up against here and you start banging on it, it's gonna
start getting pretty messy. You know, you'd have the glue on there, and it'll just carry on. It becomes a bit of a pain. So, that is the reason
for us snapping the line, and keeping our glue back
a little bit from that line keeps things nice and tidy
and it makes your work a lot more enjoyable. So, the other thing, a few
more things I want to show you, we're gonna go over here, and it's about where you start with your plywood. When you're using tongue and groove, you want the tongue starting here so that in the next
piece, when you're banging pieces together, you're
banging against the butt edge, not the tongue edge,
which is more delicate. So, that's important. The other thing. When you're starting your first sheet, or any of your sheets
when you're doing this, you do not want them hanging over the edge of your joists here, your floor framing. If they are, I'll just exaggerate this, if that is sticking out, you're gonna get this teetering effect. When you go to put your
finish material on here, your paneling or so on and so on, what'll happen is that it's gonna try and bend around here. You're gonna have a bump in that finish, and that is going to make all
your finishing problematic. So, be careful, and make
sure that your sheeting, floor sheeting is in a little bit, eighth of an inch,
doesn't need to be much, and then that's where you would start. Next we're gonna start screwing. When you're doing your first sheet, you want to start in the corner over here, and then we'll adjust
everything else from there. (drill grinding) And then you work your way
down the long side first, but we can pull this back. The glue's already starting to stick, but it's still pliable. Take our square, just make sure we're about an eighth of an inch. You want that spacing. Whatever space you go in, you want that to be equal all the way through. (drill grinding) And also another point, too. We're using coated screws. They're made specifically
for pressure treated lumber where these are one and five eighths. By the time they're (mumbling) they will grab about an inch
into the lumber underneath, but the coating prevents them, or the coating on the screws
prevents them from corroding from the pressure treated
chemicals that are in the wood. So, it's important to use those. Anyways, we'll carry on. We're gonna square up. We go down. We're doing pretty good here. Let's check this one again. Needs a little bit more. Again, make sure that's accurate. The more you do that, the
more accurate you are. Easier,
(drill grinding) easier it is gonna be when you get to your finishing stages. May not seem important, but it is. (drill grinding) Okay, we're secure along here. We're gonna be adding more screws later, but we just want to get
everything squared up. Now, over here, I got about just over a sixteenth in from the edge. So, we want the same thing over here. Get that going. (drill grinding) Another tip when you're
using pressure treated, or tongue and groove
plywood, you don't want to screw it down tight right near this edge until you actually have the
other sheet of plywood in there. If you screw this down first,
it makes it really tight. So, about eight inches
back, and then do that all the way along. Then put your sheet in, the next sheet in, and then screw it down on both sides. So, we're just gonna check this. We're good there. (drill grinding) Now, as far as how many screws to use, I like to go about every eight inches. You'll find some people
may say 12 inches is okay, but eight inches with a
good bead of glue underneath will ensure that this'll
be a very solid floor after you're done. So, I'm gonna finish screwing that off. There is one more tip that I have. I don't know if you can see it from there. Plywood, when it goes through the mill, always has lines running down
here from rollers in the mill. Typically, these are square
to the edge of the plywood. If they are, do check em. Make sure they are square. If they are, you can use them as a guide. So, for example, we have our joist here, and this line is right
here, which is on the edge. So, if I go three quarters of an inch in, all the way down, I will be on the center of this joist right here,
and you might have some, they might be three inches over. You would just use that. It's just for a guide,
and it works very well. So, look for that when you're
laying down your plywood. The other thing you'll notice is that we have this side down label up. If you look at video
two, I've explained why we've done that. The other side of this is
actually a poorer quality veneer. So, we decided to put this up. For a shed, that's okay, but take a look at video two if you want
to know more about that. Other than that, we're
gonna get this screwed down, and then we're gonna do our end piece, and then we'll come back and we'll do those pieces over there. (drill grinding) The other thing that's important, as well, is as you're screwing your joists down, or the plywood down to your joists, just double check to make sure your joists are still on center, because
they could have a wow this way. You know, they could be
curved a little bit that way. So, you want to adjust those
as you're screwing this down. This one's just a little bit out. So, we're just gonna tap it over. (knocking on wood) Okay, we're on center there, and (drill grinding) screw it down. We'll be doing that will of em, and you can check em all first. They're all good. You're good to go. (drill grinding) And, that's that one done. We're going to be cutting this next piece. When you're joining plywood together, butt ends, there is a spacing required. I'll show you that once
we have a piece in place. When you're putting your
tongue and groove together, there's also a spacing requirement there. That's to prevent squeaking,
but I'll show you that when we do this next piece. So, we're gonna measure that, get it cut, and we'll be back shortly. - [Cameraman] One more thing about tongue and groove plywood. Take two, roll it. - One more thing about
tongue and groove plywood that I wanted to mention before we finish up here with our floor. If you were building a
shed that was 12 feet wide, or if you're working on a house, and you were 12, 16, 20 feet,
tongue and groove plywood, the actual face after you join it together is only 47 and a half inches. If you were doing 12
feet, you're gonna lose a half inch for every run
of plywood that you do. So, you have to take
that into consideration. The wider you are, the more you
have to compensate for that. You may end up in a situation where you get to the end of your framing, and your plywood is just on the edge here, because you're losing that half inch. On this particular shed, we
don't have to worry about that. In fact, because we're going
seven feet nine inches across, we're gonna have our plywood
hanging over the edge here. So, we don't have to worry about that, and like I mentioned
before, when you're banging your sheets together, if
you did have a wider shed, 12 feet, when you do the
next piece of plywood make sure you use a piece of two by four, put it on there, and you would knock the next piece in with a sledgehammer. We're not gonna have to do that, because we're hanging over. So, just wanted to show you that quickly, and we're gonna continue on
with laying our plywood down. Okay, when you're cutting
your pieces for the end here, it's really important that you try and use the factory edge over here. This is a factory edge here. This is a full sheet. That will give you a nice,
clean line down here. There's also a spacing requirement
that I want to show you, (wood clanking) and this applies to any
type of construction you're doing with tongue
and groove flooring, any flooring for that matter, is that you don't want
this space here tight. You want just over a sixteenth of an inch. What that does is it prevents
your floor from squeaking. You know, in a shed you
might not worry about it, but if you're gonna do things properly, that's the way to do it. So, you want just over a sixteenth. You'll notice that we have
a nice eighth inch space over here so everything works out good, and we're gonna move this
down and get it screwed down. So, I'll finish that
up, and then we'll go on to the next piece, and
I'll show you another thing that you need to do over there, as well. We're gonna start our next row now. One of the things that's important to know is that when you're laying
out floor like this, you should stagger your sheets. If we were doing a large area, say a floor in a house, you would put your first sheet down like that. Your next sheet would be four feet so that your staggering is exactly equal all the way through your floor. We're doing a small shed here. We don't really have to
worry about that too much, as long as the staggered
joint is far enough away from the other one, we're okay. So, we're gonna be putting an 85 inch piece in here, will take us to here. When you're working with your plywood, make sure that everything
on the joist stays clean. Give your sheets that you're
gonna be bringing over a slight tap. Make sure any small pieces
of wood are falling off, and also before you glue anything up, or get your sheet over
here, check this groove, make sure it's clean,
there's no debris in it, and check the groove on
your plywood, as well. So, I'm gonna grab that sheet. I'm gonna glue this floor down, and we'll come back in a second. I'm gonna show another spacing requirement to prevent squeaky floors, but as soon as I get the floor down I'll show you that. Okay, we put our glue down. We've dropped our plywood in place. What you should do, just set it lightly up against the other sheet. Make sure you end is just a little bit in from your joist, and flush
with this piece here, and to get us started,
just give it a kick. (wood thumping) That'll get it in the groove. Once it's in the groove, just double check it hasn't slid either way. Now, in this case here, we have a bit of an overhang here. The piece that's gonna be left over is not gonna be salvageable. So, we're just gonna
take the sledgehammer, and tap right against the edge here. Tap it in. One thing I want to note is just like our end butt joint over here,
when this comes together you want to have just a little bit under a sixteenth of an inch
space, or close to it. That'll prevent squeaking,
and that's important, especially in a home. So, we'll get that in place. Start from the center so it stays even. (wood thumping) Just check it as you go. (wood thumping) Okay, we got it just
slightly over a sixteenth. More than likely, that's
because we're using the backside of the plywood. So, on the other side, it's
probably about a sixteenth. We're gonna go with that. I think we'll be fine. Let's give it one more tap. (wood thumping) I think we're good there. So, we're gonna screw this down, and we're gonna cut our next piece. We're gonna get it in place, and then I'm gonna show you
how to do the end cut here. Okay, now that we got
the floor screwed down, there is one thing that
I wanted to mention that I didn't mention when
we were doing this sheet here is you want to screw
along your joint first. When you get to here,
just as we did along here, if there's any adjustment
on your joist below to pull it this way or that way to make sure this end of
your floor is square, too, that's to be done, and then you can just screw along here, and
then finish screwing up as you go down. So, we've done that. Now, we've got this overhang here. It's close to three inches. Well, it's actually a half inch less because of our plywood measurement. So, what we do is we take a
measurement from underneath, distance back to the joist header, and then we take that and we add an eighth of an inch, so that when we finish this cut our
plywood is just a hair in from the joist header below. So, we put a mark here,
and we do the same thing on the other end down here. Take our chalk line, which will give us a perfectly straight line. We put it on this mark here. I already did that before,
and we take it down, bring it to this line,
and we snap our line, gives us a perfectly straight line, and we're gonna take our skill saw. Now, I've set the skill saw up for just a hair over three
quarters of an inch deep. So, it'll just cut
through, but not too deep into the joist header
below, and we're gonna trim that off. (saw buzzing) And with that cut, we're
an eighth of an inch in from our joist header below. So, when our material goes on later, we don't have any cantileving,
or bumps in the material, and that's it. Once that's done, we're gonna just finish screwing off the edge here. I left that till last. We're gonna do that now,
and then we're finished with that plywood on the floor. We're gonna move on to the rafters next. (drill grinding) Okay, that is the floor screwed off. Now, previously I had mentioned
doing the rafters next. That might come as a bit of a surprise. You might thing we're gonna do the studs, but we're gonna be
building our own on-site trusses here, and we're
gonna use the floor as our layout guide and our jig, and that is one of the reasons that we spent so much time making sure it was square and flat,
because making the jig for the trusses, you need
that kind of accuracy. So, in the next video, we're
gonna start the trusses.
