Building a Shed from Start to Finish - Lean to style Shed

[Music] do [Music] hey there and welcome to diy projects with pete in today's episode we're going to build a storage shed now this project was a ton of fun to build and building something like this is really going to teach you a lot of new skills or perhaps hone some of them if you haven't yet built a single pitch lean to style structure before now building something like this is a lot of fun because not only could it be a storage shed which in our case we need because we don't have that much storage in our home but it could also be something like maybe a man cave a she shed a backyard office and another reason i built this is sort of as a practice project to work the kinks out for a little bit larger structure i'm going to be building soon and that's going to be a backyard ice rink warming house and that's just going to be a building to stay warm in when we're out skating for the kids to put their ice skates on to have some hot chocolate for the parents to maybe have some cold beverages as well and to watch some hockey and uh you know so this project uh wasn't 100 perfect but everything that i did learn will go to help make that next structure that much better and so i hope you enjoyed the process and if you do enjoy the video please give it a thumbs up and subscribe to the channel that really helps grow things and let's get started with today's project i started by taking a trip down to the hardware store to pick up some boards for the floor skids and framing now lumber prices have come down quite a bit lately and so it makes a lot more sense to build again today's build will be a 10 foot by 10 foot shed on skids so it can be moved and installed as needed now the beauty of building your own shed is you can customize it exactly how you want you'll learn the basic skills to build a structure and it can be a lot of fun you can also save some money if you have the time and energy to build it yourself the total cost to build this shed with the current prices of wood and supplies in my area came to about twenty six hundred dollars which was much cheaper than anything i could find pre-made and of similar quality at least where i live i'd love to hear if you decided to buy or build and why so let us know in the comments below the first step was to build the floor and i'm ultimately going to be placing the shed on a four inch bed of gravel in the backyard and so i decided to use two by six boards for the joists and four by four boards for the skids i'll essentially build a box and will keep the rim joists at a full 10 feet and then i'll cut each of the floor joists to 9 feet 9 inches so that the platform will be exactly 10 feet by 10 feet when it's complete i then measured and marked the location for each floor joist the joists will sit 16 inches on center so i measured in 16 inches then put a mark three quarter inches to the right at 15 and a quarter inches and three quarters to the left at 16 and three quarters inches you'll then continue marking every 16 inches along the board and marked to the right and left of that three quarters inches this is going to ensure the one and a half inch thick joist is placed 16 inches on center so that the 4 by 8 foot plywood sheets will rest on the joist and it's also going to minimize the amount of cutting you'll need to do i then laid each pressure treated 2x6 joist crown up at the marked locations and began attaching them to the rim joists using a framing nailer now this tool makes quick work of the process and is something i definitely recommend investing in if you plan to build a shed i realized i was one joy short and so that gray board is an old one i removed when i redid my deck last year and built a new trex deck and if you're interested in checking out that project i'll link to it in the description below 4x4 skids were laid out to determine the best placement underneath the joists and i sometimes like to use skids because it gives you the flexibility to move the shed if you ever want to a few years ago i ordered a 12 by 24 foot storage shed with skids from a local company and it was pretty neat to see how it was transported and moved with the right equipment i figured when i build a shop someday and i want to move the shed that the skids will be an easy way to do it you'll want to make sure the platform is as square as possible before putting the flooring on so run a tape diagonally in each direction and then shift the platform as needed to square it up the next step was to tack the skids in place so i used some three and a half inch long nails to quickly attach them to the rim joists and joists and this basically fastened them to make it easy to attach brackets in later steps i used simpson brackets and nails to strengthen the connections of the joists to the skids and this works well but something else i recommend doing which i didn't get on camera is to add some six inch or so structural leg screws to help make the connections even stronger it's probably overkill but it's something i like to do the next step is to attach the plywood to the floor and i like to use tongue and groove sheets if possible but plywood prices were still ridiculous so i kept cost down by using 23 30 seconds square edged cdx plywood it's going to work just fine for this 10 by 10 storage shed adding the plywood goes quickly and it's a rewarding step since the flooring is basically complete once this is done stagger the sheets when laying them down and then use a circular saw to cut the sheets down when needed and you'll want to use a chalk line to make it easy to make straight cuts chalk lines are also helpful for marking where the joists are so you can make sure the nails go through the plywood and into the joists instead of accidentally missing them for the next portion of the project i moved the platform to the backyard and closer to where it will eventually be installed now the skid steer has been one of the best investments i've made for the property as i'm able to use it for snow blowing landscaping construction planting trees moving firewood or basically anything on pallets and then just all sorts of other projects around the place i sort of came up with the design as i built the project so i took a look at my other sheds to see dimensions and how they were built and i put this seven and a half by seven and a half foot shed together from costco with my wife and built a platform for it so it can easily be moved and the other shed is the 12 by 24 foot one i purchased our 10 year old black lab retriever mix named helena wanted to be a part of the build so i set up a tent to help keep her cool now it was time to frame the walls which is a lot of fun and they go up pretty quickly i started by framing the back wall of the shed which is a little under eight feet tall the top and bottom plate are made from two by four by tens i did frame the corners with california corners just in case i ever wanted to drywall or finish out the insides but it's unnecessary especially if you don't plan to ever finish the inside the wall studs are all 16 inches on center for this project and i cut the second top plate three and a half inches shorter on each end so i can tie the end walls into the front and back wall with that second plate as you'll see in a later step i stood the rear wall up and then nailed it in place now make sure your platform is level if you're building your shed off-site or not in its final location like what i'm doing and this is going to ensure that everything goes together correctly it's square plumb and level i then secured the wall through the 2x4 and into the outer joists i framed the sidewall next again 16 inches on center and make sure to burn or subtract that first three and a half inches to lay out your studs correctly so the sheeting or smart siding will line up the way you want it to this is going to accommodate that wall space from the other wall that sits next to it i did the second top plate longer so it will tie into both the front and back wall then secure the wall in place through the 2x4 and into the outer joist also attach it to the rear wall from the top and sides for the other wall i decided to add a vinyl window i'd had left over from another project so i framed this side up for the window with everything staying 16 inches on center i built the header out of two by six boards and then sandwiched a half inch piece of plywood between each two by six so that it matched the depth of the studs which is three and a half inches a jack stud or a trimmer supports the header and then there's a king stud that runs on each side from the bottom plate to the top plate now the sill runs horizontally below the window and then there are shorter boards that go vertically above and below the window i added the second top plate stood the wall up and then attached it similar to the other walls i took a look at the other sheds to get some ideas on a good width for the doors and decided that an opening of about six feet in width would be perfect this shed is mainly going to be used for storing totes and sports gear so that size of an opening will be plenty i swept the floor so i'd have a nice flat surface to assemble the final wall on now if i'd had done a little bit better job planning the build i'd have built the front wall out of 10 foot long 2x4 boards but i hadn't yet decided on the pitch i wanted to go with and so i just built the front wall using the same height boards and later added a smaller wall on top to get a little closer to a 212 pitch which is generally the minimum slope you want if you plan on doing shingles and not a metal roof um i wanted to do a metal roof but didn't have the time to wait for it to be ordered in so i did end up doing shingles but next time around i'll do a bit steeper pitch the opening for the door was framed in a similar manner to the window i had some help this afternoon and so dylan and i stood up the front wall and then secured it in place after the wall was attached i cut out the bottom plate in the door section i ended up adding an additional jack stud to each side of the opening to better support the header with that wider opening next i framed a small top wall and added it to the height of the front wall to make it taller for that lean-to style roof now ideally i should have done this out of 10-foot long boards to create one wall but it will work fine for my small shed and is still super solid we figured out the angles and then cut the bird mouths on the rafters now once the first rafter is done you can use it as a template to easily transfer the cut lines to the remaining rafters we then used hurricane clips to secure the rafters to the plates on the front and rear walls and these were spaced at 24 inches on center we then added sub fascia to tie the rafters together on the front and back of the shed and then we put some boards up on the other two sides as well and this completed the framing for the roof for the most part we then built a small angled wall at the top of each side so we'd have an area to attach the upper siding to in a later step for the siding we're using 4x8 sheets of 7 16 inch thick lp smart siding this siding is commonly used on sheds and it's pretty easy to install i'd recommend having some help with this process as it will make it go a lot faster and as long as the framing is 16 inches on center it should line up right with the studs now we did some bracing to keep the framed walls square prior to the sheeting and once the building is sheeted or sighted it's going to start to feel rock solid and you can use a hammer and siding nails or a drill and screws to attach the siding but a coil siding nailer will make the process go quickly and i built a few sheds and know that it definitely makes the process easier i ran a reciprocating saw around the framed opening of the window to easily cut the opening in the siding and if you have a router handy that's actually my favorite way to cut an opening and to get a nice looking cut but if you don't have one or don't have one near you the saw will get the job done just fine we continued siding the rest of the building and then cut out the opening for the front doors one thing to note is that we do edit out quite a few of the repetitive steps in the project so we do use a lot more nails and screws than you see being added in the video so just make sure you nail at each stud according to the manufacturer's specifications as best as possible well i had the help dylan and i decided to get the sheeting on the roof installed and figured that i could finish up the small siding pieces on my own and we used 7 16 inch plywood since it was a lot cheaper at the time but i prefer using osb when it's cheap i went out the next day and finished up with the siding the smart siding is easy to cut with a circular saw i just made sure to line it up with the lower siding sheets when i installed it once the siding was installed i picked up some dark gray exterior grade paint i used about a gallon and a half total to paint this shed and did two coats i started out with a 3 8 inch nap roller and i had to touch up the vertical lines since it wasn't going in them so i ended up switching to a longer nap roller and that helped get a solid coat on everything and it filled in the lines too 1x8 boards were used for the fascia and i stained all sides of the fascia before installing the pieces i've used miratech or that engineered smart siding trim for a few sheds in the past but there was a shortage of it and it was really hard to come by during this build so i just decided to use wood trim for everything and i ended up liking how it turned out on this shed having an extra set of hands to help with this step is nice but i was able to get it done on my own and to get the side facia cut at the right angle i put it in place traced where it matched up with the front fascia and back fascia and then cut and reinstalled it the drip edge was installed on the rear side of the roof and nailed in place then i put down the underlayment in this case i'm using a synthetic underlayment left over from when we re-roofed our house but tar paper would be a cheaper alternative if you're doing shingles for the roof i then use the cap nails to hold the underlayment in place and to keep it secure so it doesn't flap in the wind drip edge was installed on each side once the underlayment was on and i cut it using a sharp shears to get the correct angle when i needed to i bought a starter shingle roll which does a good job protecting the edge of the roof and it gives the first row of shingles a good place to stick to i used a black colored shingle that i thought looked pretty modern and that would make the roof look sharp the first shingle went on at the bottom corner and it overlapped the side and rear about 3 8 of an inch i'd install a shingle with a nail going just above each of the slits on the shingle and then near those outside edges and the second row was installed six inches in from the first row and then i basically continued this pattern for the first six rows excess can be cut off using a razor knife you'll use the excess to fill the starter side once the first six rows are done and then you'll start that same pattern again and the shingling process actually goes pretty quickly i used a spare shingle as a straight edge when cutting the excess to keep it at about a 3 8 inch overlap if the underlayment goes on straight it's nice to use the lines as a reference to keep your shingles straight otherwise chalk lines are a great way to mark a few lines to ensure those shingles are lined up correctly i had some extra starter roll so i decided to use it on the top portion to help better protect the ruff it went underneath the last row of shingles i then cut off any excess shingles they were out of larger size flashing at the store so i ended up using a smaller sized piece i had left over from another shed build i'd done a few years ago i applied silicone to the underside and then nailed it in place i then sealed all the nailed the areas using a roofing sealant i had some half inch plywood that i cut into strips and then used as soffit i needed to install a little additional blocking so that the soffit would secure tightly everywhere but i just think the soffit makes the shed look so much more complete and i was really happy with how it turned out the doors were the next part of the project to work on and since i'm building my own shed doors they're actually going to overlap the outside of the shed about an inch and a quarter around the perimeter so i used a chalk line and then cut one and a quarter inches of siding off around the opening now it probably would have been easier to pre-cut this before the siding is attached but either method would work the doors are built out of two by fours and i used pocket holes and screws to connect the boards to each other i made the two by four frames about an inch shorter than the opening so there's some wiggle room and one frame is about two and a half to three inches less in width than the other but once the siding is added it will overlap the front side of the other door to close and will look and be the same width from the outside osb got down to 16 a sheet finally just in time to do the back of the doors and so i cut and then attached it to the frame this keeps the frames straight and square the next step was to lay the siding over each of the doors now these pieces were both cut to the same width and the siding overlapped the three outer sides by about one and a quarters inches and the doors are a bit tricky to explain but the siding on the right door will overlap the frame on the left door a few inches this is going to keep the doors together when shut i decided to test fit all the trim and doors before i stained or painted it and for the corner trim i cut the angles to match that of the shed for the upper part that would be against the soffit and then attach the boards to each other using screws i then dry fit the trim to the shed with a couple screws i did the same thing for the doors and dry fit the trim on them a half inch sheet of usb was used as a spacer under the door to simulate the height when the door is hung now cutting the trim to size and placing it around the opening helped with getting the nice even spacing between the doors and the outer trim i then ripped a scrap 2x4 by 10 on the table saw to a half inch thickness that would be used to cover the seam between where the lower and upper siding sheets meet i did a second coat of paint on the shed and then rolled some on the doors as well two coats of oil-based stain was brushed on all sides of each trim piece and the oil-based stain takes quite a while to dry so i finished up with the final coat and let them dry overnight the trim went up super fast the next morning since they were already cut to size and ready to attach the trim boards were then lined up on the doors and then our one-year-old black lab named maddie came out to do a quick inspection here's a shot from earlier showing the white vinyl window installed on the shed i think black windows look really sharp and i decided to paint them so here's what i did first i used a long razor blade to cut and break the seal of the window so the glass would pop on out and this is a smaller size window in this example i just had it laying around but it will show you the basic process and on the other side there's going to be a few pieces of trim you can either pop off by hand or use a putty knife once the windows were popped out i sanded all the surfaces of the vinyl with 400 grit sandpaper really well and then cleaned it all with rubbing alcohol i then used a matte black exterior grade spray paint made to bond well to vinyl as long as it's prepped properly the paint dries fast but i did decide to wait a bit longer before i reinstalled the glass panes so here i'm installing the window and screwing it into place the trim was secured to the doors with screws and then i lifted them into place and onto some scrap pieces of osb to keep them a half inch off the floor of the shed the trim around the opening was added next and i tried to keep about a quarter inch gap between the trim on the building and the doors next the hinges were added and i did three six inch hinges on each door take your time with this process and adjust the doors as needed until they're lined up correctly and look good to the eye the door should open smoothly and not rub against anything i didn't get it on film but i reinstalled the window panes using clear silicone caulk and i've used window glazing tape for this process as well now window flashing tape was put around the window frame and then the trim was fastened to the siding i added some additional hardware to the door including handles barrel bolts and a latch i put the last few pieces up and then called it good now i still need to add a couple latches to hold the doors open for when i'm going in and out of the shed often some vents to get some airflow and then shelves to make storage more efficient but i'll take care of that when i get some downtime if you are interested in seeing some ideas for shelves and simple shed organization check out a video i made a few years ago which will be linked to in the description all right thanks so much for tuning in i hope you enjoyed watching how this backyard shed project was built and i hope it inspires you to go out there and build something now if you have built a shed of some sorts i'd love to hear about it please comment below share any tips you have or what you built and don't forget to stay tuned for an upcoming project which is going to be the backyard warming house that's going to be a fun one so don't forget to keep watching the channel for when that comes out and if you enjoyed this project please give it a thumbs up and subscribe to the channel that really helps grow everything all right thanks again for watching take care and cheers from montana [Music] [Music] you

Channel: DIY PETE

Views: 89,911

Rating: 4.9705424 out of 5

Keywords: shed, how to build a shed, storage shed, tiny house, simple shed, how to build a storage shed, shed from start to finish, shed ideas, lean to shed, lean to building

Id: kTPrEjCcX2k

Length: 23min 47sec (1427 seconds)

Published: Sun Sep 19 2021