How To Build A Shed By Yourself All STEPS 10x16

hey guys this is Paul from smart easy DIY today I wanted to talk to you about this shed that I made it is 10 by 16 a very nice-sized shed to have a lot of these same ideas in this video will work for a tiny house or a small cabin as well now I realize this is a very long video to watch so I included timestamps down in the video description below the video so you can go check out what you can find out where I did different parts of the video so you can skip ahead if you need to that way you have an idea what you're in for the reason that I made this video so long is because there's so many questions that you guys had on the last shed video that I did that you wanted answers to so I'm including all the details you can find out all the things you need to to build this from start to finish so if you're wondering how I got the rustic look on the siding wait until I get to the part where I start staining the siding before I install it and that will answer all the questions that you have on that part I will also include a lumber list for you guys down in the video description that way you can reference off of that if you wanted to see what you're in for as far as material list alright let's get started alright so the first thing I did to get my spot nice and level where the shed is gonna be sitting is I've brought in some 3/4 crush gravel that I had now I'm not gonna figure this into the expenses I ended up having some left over from doing my driveway so I'm not really sure how much this ended up being just wanted to let you know that's what I did and I'm gonna pack it down and I'm also gonna put these concrete blocks they are 4 inches thick 8 inches wide and 16 inches long I've been working along here trying to get all my blocks put in I'm putting 4 along here so in a 16-foot section they're about 4 feet on center so what I'm doing here to figure out where level is exactly is using one of the four by sixes that's going to be for the bottom beams and using that to get it nice and level so you can see here I've been putting these blocks in I've put 3/4 crush gravel in here like I had mentioned earlier and I packed it down really good I've been using this tamper right here that packs it down really good if you have a plate tamper you can rent that and pack the whole pad down but I had one of these so this works pretty good so yeah I've just been packing those down just got this row in here you can see here nice and level when you're building your shed or tiny house there's some things you need to think about with foundation now if you're building something permanently I would recommend doing concrete piers depending on if you have frost in your area or not in the winter time you need to dig down at least three feet maybe four feet and pour it full of solid concrete I would recommend for this type of situation though if you're going to be moving your shed in the future potentially if you build a pad you can just do something like this you could actually set it right on the gravel if you want to just crush gravel and set it right on there I decided to put it up on concrete blocks like this just to give me a little more height than my situation so but there's things like that that you need to consider now if you're doing a tiny house of course you would probably put on a trailer or whatever so that's just something to think about on the ends of the beam since they're going to be skids potentially you don't want to leave this corner square because they could dig in if you ever have to drag or move your shed around like loda on the trailer so I ended up 45 in the corners I went half way down in 45 them in like that that's what I did on all the corners but once I got those cut the next thing you have to think about is lay out how far apart you want your floor joists to be I chose to go 16 inches apart in this case so your layout if you've never laid out floor joists before what you want to do is go 16 inches on center or 2 foot whatever you choose to do like say if you're going to foot I chose to go 16 in this example so you want to measure back 3/4 inch and make a mark for your edge mark and then put your X in the center that shows where Center is gonna be because for layout on plywood whatever you're gonna use you want everything to work out that way so you can see when I get over here to the last one it's that way as well and then I went a full 16 feet for my beams in this case so the next thing I did is I set my beams up pretty much exactly where they need to go and then to get them pretty much square you don't need to get them exact yet but you want to get them close you measure cross corner from the outside corner to this outside corner and there are squaring calculators if you look online just do a search for foundation squaring calculators and you can put in your feet and inches either way and it tells you approximately what it should be so you measure across that corner and then you would do the same from that corner over to that corner and just get it approximate all right the next step I wanted to show you is floor joists so in this case I'm gonna do 10 by 16 and I want my finished width to be 10 when I'm done and since I'm gonna be putting 2 by on the outside going down through here I need to cut these 3 inches shorter than 10 foot to compensate for these things being inch-and-a-half on the outside on either side so since 10 foot is 120 inches I cut him at 117 to compensate for that so then what I did I decided to have my beams in 16 inches from the outside so since I don't have the outside one on there yet I had to go 14 and a half to figure in that inch and a half there try not to confuse you but I made a little mark down there I'm just setting it up for now and I did the same on this side put my 14 and a half inch mark there so then what I'm gonna do is tack these end ones on just with couple nails because I'm gonna be lagging these as well and then that's when you measure cross corner and make sure everything is square then perfectly once you get these ones on and I would recommend sorting and getting the straightest ones for the end ones that you can find other thing that I wanted to show you is when you're doing something like that you always want to turn the crown up on the board see you like this this one is an extreme case but you can see which way the crown is it's crowning to the right they're pretty bad so you want to make sure on your floor joist that you turn that up because any weight that goes on there that way the weight would just push it down straight if anything if you start it with it bowed down already then your floor is gonna get a pretty good SAG in it already so just want to show you that that's a little trick that you do on floor joists another thing if you're operating noisy tools it's good to wear eye protection and ear protection now you can just hand nail stuff if you want I happen to have some air nailer so I'm going to be using them and be sure when you're nailing treated to use galvanized nails whether your hand nailing or air nailing [Music] so now what I did is I nailed the end ones on as you saw in the time-lapse then made sure I measured cross corner make sure that it was square and then to make sure that I get a nice straight line I put a screw in each end and put a string up like that and that way I can bring it right to that string and nail one end and then go over and nail the other end [Music] all right so another little trick that I like to do for hanging this edge board I put a screw in on the far end just up a little bit so it can grab and then in that long of a span it's good enough to set one end up and then I can nail that end over there and then come back and take the screw out and nail this end [Music] so when I was nailing this outer board I didn't have quite enough nails to put three in each one so I ended up adding some exterior rated decking screws some 3-inch and that worked out good so then I was thinking about how to fasten these a little better into this beam to make sure they don't move so I use these grk there are 5/16 by 4 inch they're treated lumber approved and they're really heavy-duty lag screw whatever you want to call them I put them in with my impact I did pre-drill this front one right here the sidings gonna cover it you can see it's nice and flush so the sidings gonna cover that I used a drill just to make sure that I started correctly I didn't use a drill on the others they worked fine since what I did is I put one on one side of the joist one on the other side of the joist I just kind of alternated and down through there if you want you could add one on either side but I think they bite well enough that I wouldn't worry about that part now here's a good thing for you to do try walking across all the joists and see if you can walk across without falling all right maybe you shouldn't do it but if you're comfortable on floor joists it's a fun thing to try so I wanted to mention something really quick before I start floor sheeting if some of you are watching this to make a shed for something to live in or a tiny house that you want to live in and you want to insulate your floor's I wanted to mention something really quick you're probably gonna want to sheet this somehow that way you can insulate your floor that you know won't have critters in there like mice and stuff so what I was thinking of is you could use some two by fours this is just a little chunk to demonstrate and I'm not gonna do it because I'm not gonna live in this but now would be the time to do this before the flooring goes on but you would want to use something and you're probably wanting use treated because it's gonna be underneath this is just a thought I had something for you guys to think about you could run this underneath like this so it catches like this and then you could toe screw it on each side like this on each end over there and then in order to do this from the top you could also put a screw in like this from the top like toe screw it like down through the middle like that and then that would hold this up and then you could sheet plywood in between each Bay from the top down then you don't have to worry about getting underneath this is just another demonstration so you could do this and then your plywood would sit right against that if you wanted to sheet that that's just a thought I'm not sure how it would come out over here on the end because you would see your two by but you could keep your two by back you know four inches or so so you don't see it from the outside or if you are gonna do that you could use it like a 2x8 out here instead of a two by six make so it drops down more so that way your thing would butt right into it so just some option to consider if you are gonna insulate your floor so yeah I don't want to spend too much time on this insulating the floor thing but I can't stress enough that now is the time to do that so I don't know if you guys quite follow along but yeah you could sheet with plywood then you rip them long ways and you could cheat with plywood in there I would recommend doing like half-inch treated plywood or something that way everything on the bottom is treated and then so if you did a 2x4 underneath and split the difference from side to side like that then that would catch your plywood so you could do everything from the top that would be awesome if you did that then you'd want to insulate with our twenty-one or our 19 right now since it's a six inch floor joist right there and put that in the cavity - you may even want a plastic it from the on the top and then put your flooring on now after you're all done I would double check to make sure everything is square measuring across corner before you start putting your plywood down so the treated plywood for the floor I got at Home Depot Lowe's did not carry them in my location Home Depot was the best price that I could find it was like $36 a sheet for the 3/4 inch treated plywood and every place else was like 50 so that saved me quite a bit by getting it that way now if you don't have a home depot around you may want to check elsewhere I've heard that Menard is really good but unfortunately I'm not in the Midwest as far as that goes so there's no Menards option in my area so Lowe's and Home Depot it is and or local lumberyard sometimes they have the best price [Music] they got the floor down I wanted to mention something normally I don't just like to run the joints all the same like this on a shed I didn't figure it really mattered and also I wanted to make less joints in the floor here because if I wanted to split this next one halfway I could have put a sheet there but I would have had to cut one in half and start with a four there start with a four over there and it would have made two joints instead of one so normally you don't do this but on a shed I think it's just fine also the same for here because otherwise I would have had to do some joints as well so you want to check your sheets and make sure they're the right length these ones ended up being a little bit longer than eight feet so I just ran them long all the way and then cut them off later so that's something you can do just snap a chalk line just cut them off when you're done okay now it's time for trusses what I like to do is use this nice flat deck didn't you have a nice flat deck to work off of and use this for laying up the trusses so the first thing that I like to do I know that this is exactly 10 by 16 this shed is is 10 feet wide so I know that the bottom of court of my truss here I'm gonna want exactly 10 so what I do is cut it exactly 10 and land it up with the outside edge nevermind the plywood you want to go with the actual framing in case your plywood is a little bit narrow and then so I do that on both sides then I just stick a screw in it on each end also for your pattern that you're making your first trust with because you're gonna be cutting all the others according it's good to pick out nice and straight two bodies that way you at least have straight ones to make your pattern with so then what I do is I go on the halfway point which in this case is five feet and I measure and make a line a little ways on your floor here don't worry you know erase over time so then what I do I decided that I want an 8 12 pitch and if you don't know how to do an 8 12 pitch you just put your square on here you need a little speed square for this and then you want to go where it says common here you want to go with the 8 which it ends up being about 34 degrees as well since I'm cutting this on a miter saw it's almost easier to go degrees it's gonna go 34 degrees so that's how you get your peak you wanna do that on both sides of the peak and then what I like to do is put a screw in each side to hold them together nice and tight and then you got to make sure to line the peak up right on that mark there that center line and then you want to line it up up and down until you hit right on the point right there see how that comes together and then what I did is make a mark on there now so now that I got it all in place I know where I got to cut this so that's the first step is to get that mark and you have to make sure the peak is lined up at the same time that these are lined up on the outsides there once you make your mark and you cut these off I think mine ended up being 55 and a half degrees on that part but you want to double-check make sure your is the same and then once you get it all together then you can screw the peak down so it stays at least that's what I do and I put it down here and then I measure off of the building here the framing and I wanted to do 7 inches I'm gonna do an 8 inch overhang and I'm gonna do a one-inch rough cut fascia board so I want 8 inches when I'm done so I want to make this seven cuz I want it to be 8 all done with the 1 inch board on the outside if that makes sense so then you just make another mark here at an 8 12 and then that's how you get that one then you would do the same on this end get your overhang that way and then you can measure from the peak and just make sure that they're both the same when you go to cut all your rest of your pieces couple things I wanted to mention about the trusses here this is a critical part getting these trusses done right so once you got these all ready to go you got them all cut basically I'm gonna put these on two foot Center you can put them closer together if you want I think two foot is plenty though that means that there is gonna be nine trusses total there's gonna be seven in the middle and there's gonna be two end trusses they only get patches on one side on the inside so you have to cut enough patches for eight total because you're doing like I said seven complete ones and two end ones so you can figure that as one when you're figuring out patches and stuff but when you're figuring up cutting this stuff what I do is just lay once you get your pattern here and you get it nice and straight ones and everything like I said then you can lay them on top of your lumber pile and you want to make sure when you're building trust is to turn the crown up remember I talked about the crown earlier on the floor joists I'm gonna make sure to turn the crown up on the trusses and on the bottom cord and on the top ones so always crown up and then this is my stack here I got them all cut there's gonna be 18 total of the top ones since it takes two per truss and there's only gonna be nine of the bottom one since it only takes one per truss so that's the count 18 top and nine bottoms I think I wanted to talk about is I'm gonna be making these out of one full sheet of 5/8 plywood so I wanted to do an experiment here I just used some luan I had laying around and I wanted to see kind of what looks good measurement wise what I came up with is 3 inches here 10 inches here and 10 and a half wide all right so here's my full four by eight sheet of 5/8 plywood that I laid all the truss patches on what I wanted to show you here the reason I went ten and a half for the width there on these heel patches is because I was able to get it to come out and really good over here with just a little bit of waste on the end so what I did here not to confuse you but yeah I just went 10 and a half 21 31 and a half 42 so you get the idea there as far as that and then I went 10 inches on this part three inches on this part and then I flipped it upside down and did that the reason that I did that is because it came up from the bottom I'll adopt that way it came up to 26 just over half and then I was able to lay out a whole bunch that way and originally the peat patch is here I had laid out 16 by 8 but I had to scrunch that down a little bit to seven and three-eighths 14 and three-quarter and then because of there was 22 I believe since I had 26 on that one so I had to scrunch him down a little bit but no big deal doing it this way with the forebay sheet I had enough to get 18 patches I only need 16 so that'll be plenty I'm gonna cut the corners off later on the miter saw for these ones but I can cut them up square it'll be easier on the full sheet and then on this part yeah I got 36 this way I only need 32 so I was able to make it work with one full sheet all right you guys I'm ready to build trusses so what I did I put a block down there I put a block on either side of the peak there so it should just fit right in there nice jig and one down here and then when I put the trust together again like I said I like to put one screw in down there you don't have to but I just like that it holds it together I like putting a couple in in the peak up there and one and down there I want to show you here what I'm gonna be using in my coil nailer I have two inch nails they're a six penny nail six D and the reason I like to inch is because that way I can nail straight on and I won't poke through because I have 5/8 inch plywood and inch and a half material so two inch should be perfect [Music] [Music] trusses are built i set the end trusses off by themselves they only have patches on one side the rest have double patches and my deck is clear again to build walls so for laying out walls I cut the top and bottom plate both of them at 16 feet exactly to go on the end over there and then to lay it out you just do the same as you did for the floor joists so if I'm going to foot on center so this time you go 23 and a quarter and the X right on the two foot they see you say it's 3/4 back from 2 foot on center then 47 1/4 just keep going on down the line then when you get to the end of course just put an X 16 it is so I got one wall built last night yet when I was working it was kind of dark so I didn't record it I'm gonna record building the rest of the walls so I'm in my last shed video I did one that has steel siding and steel roofing if you're interested you could check that one out too that is an 8 by 12 building and I built all the walls and put them off to the side and then set them later I think this platform is big enough that I can build the walls set them in place and brace him and then keep building him right in place here so I think that'll work out good [Music] so you saw the time-lapse of me standing up the wall there so yeah what I did is it's not windy at all and this thing is pretty stable so I just stood it up and I was able to put some screws in the bottom I could have nailed it but I don't have any more galvanized nails so I'm just using the deck screws the three inches putting him down into the plate there then I put one brace in the back for now I put it level and then I'm gonna do this wall over here build that and do the same thing and then I should be able to tip the other walls the end walls into place so that breaks back there will be sufficient for now until I get all the walls built and together and then I'll final brace all of them another thing I wanted to mention when you're building a wall I always cite them and pick out the two straightest studs for the end because it just makes it easier to make the walls come together nice and level and straight if you pick out the straightest ones also just like the floor joists make sure to always turn the crown up when you're building a wall that way you turn it out it's just common practice and it's a good thing to do that way the studs are all uniform you want to practice on a shed project that way you get it right when you're building a bigger project too [Music] hey now that I got those two walls set I know my braces back there off-center a little but they're doing the job so next what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna build a window in the back they're a little two-foot by two-foot and I'm gonna do a five-foot door on the front so I got to figure out what I want for measurements and get them started so as I'm laying out this back wall here where the windows gonna go in I wanted to cover this in case you don't have any experience with this if I don't cover it I'll probably get comments wondering why I didn't cover it so if you are experienced in wall building you can skip this part but if not this might be of interest to some people so what I wanted to share here yes I want the windows centered I'm not sure what the length of my walls gonna be it was 113 I cut it just a little bit loose so it'll fit in there stand up okay well the first thing you want to do for your window is you want to find Center if you do indeed want to Center it so I'm at 5 foot there you can see where my Center mark is right there and then what I did is from there so my window is 24 by 24 rough opening so I have to have 24 in between so it's gonna mess up my layout a little bit so what you want to do from your center line is you want to go one foot and put the X on the other side of it because the stud needs to go over to have room for the window so you under that on both sides and the rest of it you can do on normal layout now for this you want to hook on the outside of the outside wall or if you're doing this not hooked on to the wall in place when you're laying it out you have to put your tape on three-and-a-half to account for that wall and then you want to just do this on normal layout just like that so two foot would be the center so you want to mark a three quarter inch back and make your mark and if you do want this to be on layout see this is gonna mess up layout a little bit because of the window like I said technically the stud would be centered on this line instead of being on the edge for a shed it's okay if you want to add something above and below the window you could double it up and put one above and below but for a shed we typically don't do that but yeah you would just continue layout the same for the rest of it I think I had show this in a different spot in the video but to make a mark you can just use your speed square and just mark both of them that way you only have to mark one plate put the next one right beside it then you mark both plates all in one that way the other question I may get is why just use a single top plate why not double typically in-house construction stuff you do double but for this for a shed I think single is plenty strong enough because my trusses are going to sit right directly on top of the studs so it's going to be weight bearing all the way down so I don't see the need for a double plate but if you want to do a double plate then you just have to figure that into your overall wall height so guys if you aren't already be sure to subscribe to my channel for future videos and also go check me out on instagram at smart easy DIY I'm usually pretty active on there you can follow me to see what I'm up to on the daily basis what I just did there with the window as I wanted from the bottom I wanted at 48 to the bottom of the window so I measured up 48 made a mark which is four feet then I wanted to foot in between there so I went six foot and then went on the other side of that so that our actual opening here should be 24 by 24 that's usually the rough opening for a 24 inch window because they make the window the 23 and a half by 23 and a half but you have to check specifically what you need in your situation the thing to think about when you're framing your walls if you are going to want to heat this and insulate it for some reason like you want to live in it then you probably will want to go with a thicker wall like a 2x6 wall instead of a 2x4 wall and in the grand scheme of things it won't add very much money to your whole project so that is definitely something to think about because you'll get a lot more r-value with having a 2x6 wall than having a 2x4 wall so something to think about as you're framing okay so this is how the front wall came out I ended up doing a five and a half foot wide opening because I wanted to double doors and I made it six and a half foot tall I figured that should be good for I'm a six foot guy so I can walk in there just fine ended up coming up with four and a half inches of spare so I put three two by fours in there on edge that way I made up a solid header just in case I need a solid one so it turned out nice so I just laid it out the same way as I did the window I figured out where Center mark was and laid it out accordingly okay so now that the walls are all set usually what I do is brace it one way or the other on the left side of the wall that you can see I ran two braces but it's just for extra I just had an extra one so I put it on there but usually you can just run it in one direction or the other just make sure everything is straight and square and level and then we're ready to set up for trusses so as I'm getting ready to set trusses here I put this block in here and I just let it stick up about three feet up there so it'll catch the top of the truss now it'll keep it from flipping over I just simply use a scrap to buy and screw it together on edge there since it's nice and strong that way just run it down this is just a 2x4 eight and then it'll yeah stick up about three feet there and it'll catch the peak of the truss [Music] all right I hope you enjoyed my little time-lapse I did of setting the trusses it was a little bit hard to do with one person it'd be a lot easier if you had another person but I was able to do it it's nice and calm too I wouldn't attempt this if this was windy but you can see these are actually quite stable you can't wiggle them a whole lot but for now I'm gonna brace them better before I start shooting I just wanted to show you what I did for opposite tension I put two screws on this side and then on this side over here opposite side I put two screws on this so it kind of gives them opposite tension so it kind of holds him straight and then when I did here is I just lined him up with the stud and then I knew it was right on layout you can notice this brace I put up I ended up straightening this wall here I knew that my walls were pretty straight because the lumber I picked out for the top plate was pretty nice and straight but what I wanted to tell you if you saw me I was making marks on the trusses to make sure that they were all the same overhang you can see right there on the end I put a mark I did down on all of them so it was seven inches and then I straighten the wall so that way they're nice and straight down through there because you can see matter what you do you're gonna get a little variation so as long as your wall straight and everything you see I got just a little variation there it just has to do sometimes with the thickness and the width of your lumber even if you use the same jig and so what I do is make one end perfect like that and then this one I just snap a chalk line on top for the measurement that I want and then just recut the tails so they're nice and straight though to secure the trusses for tonight till I can get sheeting on him what I did is right in line with my brace on the end down there the end trust I put some spacers here on top I just spaced them to feet and then brought them right over here to the end and it's exactly 16 foot across there so tomorrow I'm gonna do my sheeting so it's always good to save your scrap blocks until you're all done because you never know what you're gonna need to finish because what I wanted to do here is show you for example on the overhangs what I did to get a nice flat spot for my board is I just went up tight against Sarah with a 2x4 and made it flush out even with the rafter tail there and that's what's going to be for my soffit so you saw the time-lapse of how while I was doing these soffit blocks here and this works really good I have a 1 foot square if you don't have something like that you can just use a regular one works really good to put one nail in and then use your square make sure it's nice and square and then finish nailing it and then to finish the end out you don't have to put a block on the inside but it makes it nice you have something to nail against then I just hold a little block here and I would recommend white wood instead of fir large for this because it's not nearly as splitty it's soft but just cutting this little block here you can just hold up and then trace it from the backside and get a perfect angle there also in this build guys any tools that I'm using or anything that I think might be helpful to you I'll include a link in the video description below the video that you can check it out there it's a new day fresh start so far I have about a day and a half into this build I'm not figuring any time for the base prep I just did that a little bit in the evening so I have a day and a half so far so now I'm ready to start shooting the roof with plywood I'm using 5/8 inch plywood 1/2 inch just didn't seem like heavy-duty enough and I personally don't like OSB I don't like the smell of it and all that I think it works fine if you use the thicker screws when you're screwing your steel in too but I like the strength of plywood and I did want to mention that really quick for the 11 sheets that I needed I needed one sheet for my plywood patches for my trusses that I needed 10 sheets approximately for this roof here Lowe's actually has a lot better plywood than Home Depot in my area and the sheets at Lowe's were $20 for the plywood and $14 for the OSB so it was about 6 bucks a sheet so I really it's about 60 dollars difference in the roof material whether you go OSB your plywood so that's your call what you want to do I thought in this grand scheme of things for the overall build since I don't like the smell of OSB that for $60 it was worth it to me to get plywood also the sheeting comes out a little bit strange on this since it's 16 feet which would come out good for two sheets but I need some overhangs as well which are gonna be about eight inch overhangs but I'm gonna figure a foot so what I'm gonna do is I'm just gonna let the plywood run long and cut it off so I'm actually gonna put it in on the fourth trust which would be six foot I'm gonna leave two foot sticking out over and then cut a sheet in half and then do the same thing on the other end so that's what I'm gonna do for one run and then probably I'll split the difference put a full sheet in the middle on the top run and he should off with two partial sheets when you're doing the overhangs this is just a thought that I had but one thing you can do is watch out for damaged sheets and use the bad ends for cutting off for the overhangs like here this whole end of the plywood here is delaminated it has some issues so since I'm gonna be cutting a foot off it's solid back here but I'm gonna use this out over so this is a perfect end sheet so just something to keep in mind when you're doing stuff like that also another thing that's easier to do when you're up on the roof there so you don't have to do some measuring as you can measure on the ground and I did two foot marks all the way down the edge and I also did it in the middle and on that edge you can do a square all the way across if you have a straight edge to make a line if you want to nail but I can cite it good enough for between those two feet that I can just nail it that way so that's just another thing you can do [Music] so I got this side of the roof all sheeted and I got the overhangs cut off so they look a lot better now I wanted to mention something really quick it doesn't come out very good as far as waste with this dimension just because it takes over a half a sheet for width it was 32 inches that top sheet was and then it also takes over a half a sheet for length but I think I might piece it a little bit on the other side I'll see what I come up with to save a sheet but if not it is what it is I'll use the scraps for something maybe building shelves in this shed in the future so it won't go to waste you can always use plywood scraps for something the other thing I wanted to say is working on a hillside like this it's not bad but a little bit of a hillside I really like this Warner ladder it's an extendable ladder so you can work off of either side you can make it more level and stuff I know little giant is another brand that's readily available so they're a really handy ladder you may want to check into that if you have a lot of hillside work to do but it's do it yourself on nights and weekends so you just do what you got to do with what you got you know that's pretty much what DIY stuff is usually another thing I wanted to mention is very important to be safe if you don't feel safe doing it the way that I did it I experimented with different things putting the sheets up from the outside bringing off from the top down with the top layer you just can experiment with whatever you got and it is a lot easier with this size of a build to do it with two people but I did it by myself just to show you that you can do it by yourself if you are careful in all that but just don't do anything that you feel unsafe all right so I didn't want to mention when I did the other side of the roof here when I seeded it with plywood I did end up using two strips that were 16 inches wide right there to make the 32 the remaining of it I ended up having to do that and do a small piece over here to finish out the end but by doing that I was able to save a sheet of plywood so that really helped out alright guys I got my roof sheeting all on on both sides and trimmed off I'm waiting on staples to put the vapor barrier on but I wanted to talk to you about these nailers that I'm do putting on the side here to nail the siding too I figured out that just putting one run in the middle is enough for support for the siding I'm going to use can I'm doing rough cut board and batten so if you need more support you could put two runs in there and on the top here I decided in my particular instance I'm gonna keep it down six inches from the soffit there because the soffits an inch thick so that's going to drop it down an inch and then I can nail my boards but then I'm going to put some trim horizontal under there and then but my battens into it so I want to be able to have something to fasten my battens into as well so that's why I dropped it six inches to the bottom so that's what I did there then I just split the difference for the middle run so now that it did that I'm using up all the pieces of wood that are too crooked to use for anything else this is a really good chance to get rid of them since you're doing a lot of short blocks so there's always crooked pieces to use up so now next I have to do this end over here and I have to do the back and also the front here blocking put down that side as well now I got to do it on the end over here I just got to take my brace off here I left it on until now for doing the trust there the trust support everything's braced good with the sheeting on so my son left me a present here some rubber bands off the coils of nails he's like daddy I put some rubber bands on there for you so now that I come here to take the block off I find his present so I am all done framing back here this framing here is a little higher than the sides but I just wanted to split the difference up there in the middle and then also I framed around this window here so I have plenty of something to nail to for putting my trim in when I do the trim that's why I added some all the way around and then actually up there in the end truss I decided that I need to add a 2x4 below the other two by fours in the truss and I could have built this into the end trust's so that's something to think about when you're building trusses that you could put that in if you want to then but it does add more weight to set the truss so I chose to do it later this is an inside view of adding that and I ended up actually putting another plywood patch in there just to support the middle because I had plenty of scrap plywood pieces so I did that and it's pretty easy to do you just cut the same angle as you did for the peak in 812 and then you just hold it up against what I did anyway and I scribe the line on the inside and cut it off then I added it and I nailed through the plywood patch again with the same two inch nails up there as well and then down there so that just give you something to nail to once you put your overhang on then you can still nail your siding to something all right now it's time to put synthetic underlayment on the roof I chose to do synthetic roof underlayment instead of just felt paper start our paper you can put that stuff on too if you want this stuff here I really like I got this at Lowe's you can get it at Lowe's or Home Depot its own Corning's brand and it's a 10 square roll so it does a lot of it'll be plenty but actually be more than what you need now if you just need a partial roll of stuff like this you could check Craigslist or Facebook marketplace and see if there's partial rolls just to save some money but if not this was like 90 bucks a roll or 80 bucks a roll most places if you get some other brands if you get the heavy-duty stuff they want like 120 to 150 bucks a roll so I had showed a time-lapse of the one side I'm just here putting this synthetic underlayment on here I was able to use this ladder here in Tennessee I got it opened up and stood up here and then I can just kind of lean against it and reach up there to get the last row done so that worked out pretty good okay so I'm standing on the peak of the roof and I got it all dried in over there I just ended up cutting a sheet in half and putting it over the peak I wanted to mention something really quick if you are gonna vent your Ridge you'd want to cut this out later when you do that and you wanna use it stuff in your Ridge to vent it properly I'm not gonna do that just I'm just gonna use it first shed but for a tiny house you may want to do that so I've been putting some house wrap on here what I decided to do is use my decking here since it's nice and flat and because it's kind of an odd size I didn't want to cut the whole roll since I'm doing the sides first so it worked out pretty good to do it in here I just had to cut a section and pull it up over that wall a little bit make sure it's long enough there would be 16 feet then cut it the whole way also the reason I use house wrap in this demonstration is just to show you that you can use it like if you are going to want to insulate and heat your building then you'll probably want to do house wrap just like you would on a normal house so that's why I put Tyvek on here just in the demonstration I ended up getting Tyvek on this whole thing on the front here I had to piece it to have enough I used the roll that I salvaged from a different project they had a little bit on it but I was able to just to get enough I didn't quite get it full width in the corners there but it'll be covered by overhang so I'm not really worried about it but I did want to show you there that I did piece it I did find this tie back tape here that works really good so I did all joints with that just to make it seal off better that wrinkle there looks kind of bad but I did what I could to get it out also guys just a couple thoughts I had it kind of depends on what you want to do with your building you could use this for a cabin or a tiny house whatever you want to do if you were to use it for a cabin I had this thought where you could easily have loft in half of it like you could do the normal trusses like say 8 feet or so like halfway in this example and you could easily put like a little bed up in there and stuff there's quite a bit of room and then you could build cathedral trusses on this side and you could just leave this open for the most part and it would feel a lot more open in here was just doing a seven-foot ceiling it doesn't really feel that nice and open for like a cabin feel this works perfect for a shed because I want to store stuff up in the ceiling here that's why I did it this week but just ideas you could build a cathedral truss which you would run this bottom cord up closer to the top cord and you would just design your trusts that way you can Google search go through your trusses if you're want to see more what that's about but if you want to have this completely open all the way you could also use like two by six rafters and just clear span it all the way up you'd have to do a ridge beam probably and do the rafters and you wouldn't even need to build a trust design like this then it would be open all the way it'd be so much roomier in here this would be really nice for a cabin to have this nice and open so that's just some thoughts that I've been thinking about to share with you guys kind of depends on all in what your needs are what you're looking for cuz with this video you could do a shed a tiny house a cabin whatever you want to do really also I'm trying to get my overhangs done here and I wanted to show you something when I do the overhangs here the rake whatever you want to call it the 2x4 that goes out there what I did to get at very accurate is I put it up against the building against the one that's there already put a screw in it and then scribed it right on the bottom the same length and then that way I know it's exactly the same I should have probably made a pattern when it did my trusses but things can change a little so it's good to do it this way I think so then you saw that I have a clamp here that thing is really awesome for being a helping hand because I wanted to make sure that I get this lined up perfectly right on the edge there and I wanted to make sure that my spacing was exactly eight inches so to be correct so that works really good to hold it until you get up to the top to put that in place in screw it so something simple like a clamp can be a really big help when you're doing it by yourself so while you're doing the overhang there like that when you're cutting the outside one I cut one an inside one as well I picked out a nice straight two-by-four the outside one the inside doesn't matter so much because you're screwing it right into the building so I cut two at the same time so I know they're exactly the same length I do apologize it's a little dark here I'm working on this in the evening but I'm trying to get the drip edge put on I don't quite have my siding or my fish yet so what I did here on the end is I let it stick out about a 7/8 of an inch because the board's about a 1 inch thick I want to keep it back just a little so I don't need to trim it so you can see what I did there and under in here I did it about an inch out as well to compensate for my fascia board so it'd be a lot easier to do this after the fascia is on but since I don't have it I'm just gonna show you what I did so I had this little scrap of wood here that is a one inch thick and so I use that to put the drip edge on with so you can see it's gonna fit nice and tight once that drip edge is on there so this way I can go ahead and put my steel on while I'm waiting for my siding so we want to show you what I did there and so what I did here is I did a full piece first and then from the front of the building typically if you're looking from the front you want to lap underneath so you don't see the lap from the front of the building so that's what I did so from the backside you'll see it a little bit but from the front you want that way so one thing also that's good do when you're laying out your steel is to measure all the way one end to the other and see what your length is and then if you have the standard rib steel it's 9 inches in between the center of the rib to the center of the rib on the steel itself so you can divide it and figure out if that's gonna work like for me the reason I say this is I'm gonna have some gable trim and it is 3 inches wide on the top part that has to go up over rib and then it lands in the flat part where the gable trim is gonna be fastened I'll show that later but because of that you need to do your math and figure out where you want your rib to be so your trim will clear it on either side so you have some leeway because if you have to you could like cut this rib off when you start the steel right here if it helps you to get it right on that end but in this case it's gonna be perfect if I just leave my steel right here my face your board is gonna go out here even with this but I'm just gonna keep right even with the building and then my ribs gonna come out good on the other end so I want to show you that and then because of that I use this inner closure here to seal off the bottom so insects don't get up in there so I think that's a good idea they're really pretty inexpensive you can get them with your steel and then I measured and put this on according to lay out where my ribs gonna be and I'm just running it right close to the bottom so it'll see off right at the bottom and then you kind of want to do that as you put your steel on so I'm pretty sure 2 inches is what I want from my overhang what I want it to stick down over so I measured up at the bottom made a mark 2 inches on the outside edge and I did the same over on this edge over here on the leading edge when I do that and this is the edge you want to start with because it laps over top of that sheet next like this wide one goes underneath and then this one here goes on top so you'll see as we go along then I just kind of measured and split the difference before the middle and then I'm not even gonna worry about spacing it evenly under the ridge cap because it'll all get covered under there [Music] so now that I brought most of the sheets over all the full sheets that I could now I need to cut the remainder piece here and I just measure back usually you measure back to the center of the rib that way you always reference off of the center of each rib so but not to confuse you you can just measure back and just cut it even here or however you want to do it you'll have room basically once this fascia gets on here that's all gonna get covered with that gable trim so yeah in this short of a span just screwing it on the bottom and one in the middle and on top is just fine the ridge cap will even screw through everything since it's long screws but if you have extra screws you can put something there under the top there it'll get covered by the ridge cap too so what I did since I'm overhanging two inches as I stayed four inches up with my screw so my screw ends up being about two inches up kind of in the middle of this drip edge here so yeah and I just screw about a half-inch beside the rib like that put it in just snug it up so the washers don't leak so the one thing I wanted to show you if you just need to cut along a straight line like that along a rib you can use the Tildy knife of anytime that's just one I had and you can just score right along there that's what I did it came out so it came out just beside the rib like this so he score it like at least three times or so so it's really good and scored in the same exact spot then you can just bend it down back and forth little it'll just snap right apart like that and a clean break if you don't have you totally knife what you can do is flip it upside down and cut it with the snips that way it works best if you flip it upside down because then you have room to get under there with the snips so that's just kind of a thought there too so on my last one you remember how I had run this a little long here because my fascia still has to go on here my one inch fascia and then this is back pretty much even right with the edge of the building you can see there where I cut it came out really good just on the other side of that rib what I was gonna say here is I leave these screws off along the edge here until the gable trim is on because you screw down through that so you really don't need screws there if you put them in there that may be right in the way for when you do your gable trim so it's best just to leave them off for now so I'm up here looking at my roof now that I got it on and I showed you I screwed a run in the bottom one in the middle approximately and it's up to you you can put a run up top before you put the ridge cap on if you have lots of screws and I wanted to talk to you about these screws they are a 5/16 head on here and they're a fourteen diameter is what the guy told me at the steel place they're only one inch long that way they won't stick very far through your plywood or OSB whatever you used for roof sheathing and this is extra aggressive thread compared to the normal quarter-inch one so they will hold a lot better in the plywood now here's a skinnier diameter the typical size screw to show you just to show you diameter the reason I wanted to talk to you about these is I'm gonna use these four ridge cap and you typically want these four ridge cap because you screw the ridge cap on the rib like this and you want plenty to go through the rib and down into the plywood as well so that's why they're extra long these are two inch the others are one inch all right now a couple things I wanted to talk to you about when you're doing ridge cap way I do it I set my piece up here first and you can see I kind of lined it right up with the center there and then I sight right down to the other end down there and sight it to the middle and then probably what I'll do is go along and make a pencil mark all the way along the bottom edge there and Mark it all the way you might wonder why this looks so funny it has a plastic film on it yet that I didn't peel off I don't want to scratch it while I'm up here experimenting then what I do is I got this outer closure I had showed you before you know how we did the inner closure down there at the bottom to go underneath now this one goes on top of the ribs because it's gonna go up under the ridge capsule pretty much won it in this flat part so it seals it off good but I would say about a quarter inch up or so because it'll squish a little bit when you put the screw in so if you make your pencil mark first so you know exactly where Center is not only will that give you a place where to line up your ridge cap then when you're screwing it down but you also will want to keep your closure strips up a little bit from there since I'm still gonna have a one inch board on there I'm gonna let this hang over about an inch and a half because that way it'll stick over a little bit over my finished gable trim on this edge here if it's too much you can only trim it back later if you don't like it sticking out over a tiny bit but I like it sticking out over a little bit excuse all my dirty footprints on the roof but this is with all the closure strips in place got this all marked out did my pencil lines and I got them relatively straight across there it's a little dark sweat into a time-lapse of me doing the ridge cap but I wanted to show it to you turned out nice and straight got it all screwed off and ready to go so guys you can use whatever sighting you want on your shed but I wanted to show you what I did I chose to go with a number three rough cut board and batten I love the looks of it this is Douglas fir it's called it is kind of a reddish wood a little bit like larches but I wanted to show you this wood treatment that I'm using but what I did to darken it to make it look more rustic which I love the look of rustic as well and as I'm applying it here I'll talk to you a little bit more about it this product it's called rugged wood treatment especially formulated to preserve and protect exterior wood like this it's a perfect aged look for barns and outbuildings for wood siding logs all that kind of stuff it's a powder that you mix with water and I'll show you a little bit here as I go along it has enough mix in the bag for five gallon mix and you can do a quarter cup per gallon so you can mix it as little as you want as much as you want as long as you follow the correct ratio and that will be on the back of the bag if you do purchase this product so what you do is you apply it and when you first put it on it doesn't look like it's really doing a whole lot but after a bit it'll start darkening and darkening and after the whole day it'll be really dark so depending on what type of wood that you use it can change a little bit how much it varies like sometimes it'll turn to like a grayish a little more of a dark brown patina the cool thing with this is you only ever have to do one treatment it soaks into the wood and the more that it's exposed to the Sun and the wind and the elements and stuff like that it'll just make it go deeper penetrate deeper so when you're applying this you can use an airless sprayer a pump sprayer or a brush or roller or you can dip the wood in solution for several minutes but if you use like a sprayer and I would recommend that you would mix it and let it sit for about five minutes stir it really good and then strain it before putting it into the sprayer just to make sure it doesn't plug it up the best thing that I found like when you're doing it on rough cut like this is to brush it on like you could stain it after it's up but I chose to do it first because that way it can soak in really well and that worked really well for me so whatever you want to do with that and if you do end up purchasing it it will help to go support my channel so I can do more video projects like this and I would really appreciate that if you do end up wanting to purchase it to stay in your shed include a link down in the video description below the video and you can purchase it there be sure to leave me a review and let me know how you like it how your project turned out also you can tag me on insta Graham at rugged wood treatment and you can also tag at smart easy DIY but that way I'll know what your project turned out at because I'd love to see what your projects turned out like we need to do this so the one thing I wanted to say too about the rugged wood treatment is that it is environmentally friendly it's non-toxic it's maintenance-free it's easy to apply that's why it's awesome that it's non-toxic there's no smells at all no harmful smells it's safe to use around your kids and your pets the only warning that I would give with it is that it does stain concrete so do not apply it close to concrete because it'll permanently stained concrete and also make sure to wear gloves when you're handling it because it will stain your hands it'll eventually come out but it will stain your hands kind of a rusty color but that was kind of the main thing I learned to say about that it's getting a little dark here but I decided to put my soffit up underneath here I did it all in one piece 16 feet exactly and it's a six inch one you can see here there's a little bit of a gap but the siding is gonna go on here and then the trim board is gonna go into there too so that's plenty so I want to share a really quick trick here if you're doing a long piece like this and you need to know where to stop it so you know where to nail it when you're in the middle because you have to pretty much go in the middle I just threw a block on the outside like that and then as soon as you butt against that block you know you're right in place then you just start in the middle and line it up and nail it and then work your way to each edge now when you're doing your soffit you may want to think about venting your soffit if you're going to be heating this building like for a tiny house or something you may want to vent it just like you would a house so you may want to consider putting some venting strips in between your boards ripping your boards narrower putting this venting strip in between here's a picture of an example of what I'm talking about so that's just something to think about when you're doing your soffit then I did the fascia on the front there that's a 1 by 6 as well since the bottom one under there was exactly 16 this one with the overhangs I had to use two tens and cut them in the middle there so what I did is I made it even on this one right here and then the outside ones gonna run down past even with that and then first I'm gonna put the soffit under there too got a little different story today on the weather it's been snowing this afternoon but I'm back to doing some more fascia here like I said I used the 10 footer on this end and 10 footer on the up so what I did is I just measure and then splice it halfway on that joist and then what I've been doing is just two nails because there's only about five inches showing so I do a nail in there and I stayed back a little from the end on the bottom so it doesn't split but I've been nailing into the soffit board and into the rafter tail so there's two nails in each one and I'm using like a eight penny two and a half inch ring shank galvanized nail so you want to make sure to use galvanized for nailing exterior like this but also the two and a half inch ring shank really hold so then what I do is I just measure all the way out to the end and measure back and then cut that piece put it up so the way this has been coming out see how it can just shove up in there behind my drip edge that I'd put up and then I've been letting it hang down about a half an inch I just think it looks really good to have about a half inch reveal under there I've just been working in the evenings here so it's been a while since I've been able to get good clear footage cuz it's been snowy or dark but I wanted to show you here what it did so you saw where I did the soffit down the sides there and the fascia and then what I did is I put soffit under here I ended up ripping it back a little bit just to save on boards because the siding is gonna go up there and cover that and it also be a trim batten but what I did is I just got that at at 812 on the bottom since that's what the pitch of my roof is and I cut it at a 812 up there at the peak so then I just made it flush with the outside and then I'm gonna cut the ones for the outside here they're gonna be 812 top and bottom as well I ended up having to get a different board because the ones I had stained weren't the straightest so I got this one I'm gonna have to stain it later I don't have time tonight but I want to explain why it's a different color but anyway what I want to show you how you get this first one in place by yourself see I wanted it lined up right here and then I'm gonna cut this tip off right here so that way it's flat underneath there so it's not focusing that you can kind of see I marked it under there then I'm just gonna cut a square I'll show you after its installed but the thing I wanted to show you is for the first piece you don't have anything to butt against up there so you can measure it and get it really close based on what the rafter itself measures cuz it's the same measurement pretty much give or take so then what I do is I line it up on the bottom here where I know it's going to be exactly flush with this other one and then I put a screw they're about two feet up just to hold it for now it's gonna get covered by the metal gable trim there so that's why I put it up there cuz it's gonna be hidden later so then you can climb up here to the peak and make sure that you're lined right up with your plywood there and you can see it's lined right up with the joint all the way so you know you're right in the right spot you seem like a lot of work to do it that way and you can do it by yourself that way but if you do have another person helping you it would be so much faster but just wanted to show you how you can do it yourself if you have to so never mind my mess I'm right here in the middle of cutting this so this is the edge trim that I was talking about and what I do is I just measured the length and then make a square mark all the way across this still has the protective film on it as I'm doing it and then the first one I just cut it square up in the peak and then the next one I'll cut a 8 12 on it I'll show you kind of as I'm doing it so then this piece you remember how I actually marked it square there I found out that it hits on the ridge cap up there so what it did is cut about an inch over you can see my cut I saved it so you can see and then make sure that the outside is square but as long as this is all hidden under the ridge cap so I just came out to a point and then came down and came an inch back because it hits against the top of the ridge cap if you don't do that so several things I want to point out since I'm doing this in a different order than you might be doing it because I was waiting on my fascia but I think this is easier to do once the fascia is on because you can put it up tight like that and nail it so in this case what I wanted to share with you is when I did the roof I screwed the ridge cap all but the last one but I found out it's easier if you take about three rows back take three of those screws out so you have just a little bit of room here to wiggle this and then under in here to remember this closure strip that we did let me ran all the way to there so what I found out is wherever this comes up like this you just have to cut that back cut it a little bit long and then that way I'll squish against it so this shows better what I mean see how I cut that back I even cut it a little short probably but and then you want to cut it back and then lift it up a little bit so your thing can slide underneath it your corner trim well then here's where I was saying that this one here I just cut square and then the next one I'll cut an 8 12 so that way it comes down like this on the peak so I just slide that all the way up in the peak there and then once this is all in place I'll come back up and screw the top but I'm gonna go down next and do the bottom this is the bottom and what I do is make it even on the bottom with the roof there and then I found out if you have a clamp or something that really helps to hold it for you just gives you an extra helping hand then what I do is I just site up like this and then try to make it nice and square with the your fascia so it's standing straight up and down that's how you know how far in and out to push this and then you can screw it right in line with your other screws the other thing I wanted to tell you is it's worthwhile using an eighth inch drill bit and pre drilling this because there's so many layers you're going through for that right there you're going through quite a few layers because your bit tends to wobble if you don't hold everything just right if your goo gun slips off it can make a mess it's best to use a drill bit pre-drill it and then put your screw in that way then what I do on the side that I'm working on is I put the screws back in the ridge cap there make sure everything is down nice and tight and then this end one I just put it kind of in the middle of this section and I pre-drill this one as well and then put that in oh also while I'm doing it I make sure that this is pushed in nice and flat and square against the fascia when I do that the next I'll put one down in there pre-drill that one and put one down there in that row of Scooby's in the middle so what I did on the first one is I just measured down off the bottom of the roof that's what I'm doing there - on the steel right there just hooked onto the steel then I come up here and measure the peak you can see I'm right at 85 inches so if I do that and then make it 812 on the end of this it should fit right in there nice and tight so this is the next piece I'm cutting that's the bottom down there this is the top so what I was showing you is I'm gonna cut it 812 so I went right to my measurement 85 to the long point I'm gonna cut a 8 12 angle on there and then this part here I'm gonna notch this out as well again like I did on the other side where it goes up against 10 ridge cap okay so I got the bottom done I got this in and got all the screws in in my ridge cap got that cut done there so I wanted to show you these little green trim nails that I have they're like an inch and a half long and this is what I like to use or on the face there so it doesn't stick out I put one about four inches down or so from the peak just anywhere close to the peak put one in the middle and put one at the end that way it just keeps it from moving and flopping around in the wind a lot of people put screws in and you can put screws in the same that you use for the roof they match as well so you don't have to get these but I just think it looks a lot cleaner this way so that's why I chose to do it so I wanted to show you that option so on the peak here I kind of hate showing this because of how the tin snips marked that up a little but that's actually about a sixteenth like you only notice it because it's on green so you could touch it up if you worried about it but what I was gonna say is these screws here had discovered after the fact if you remove them after you get this all done and then put them back in slightly at a downward angle it kind of pulls this tight so it's pretty much tight you can see there it looks like a big gap in the video but it's only about an eighth of an inch so it's not very much if you are worried about it you could potentially put a screw in on the top there another screw but I chose to just leave it since it's nice and clean so that's what I ended up doing there [Music] now it's the next evening still got snow on the ground here had a freak snowstorm here in October but I got this sighting all leaned up here I got it all cut ahead so I'm ready to start it up so usually what I do is I just make the first one even with the end there get it nice and even on the bottom and then some of the boards are kind of curved they're not exactly straight so I just try to split the difference like say if it's gap top and bottom I try to make the gap kind of the same and then I go a little ways and check it for level now when I get close to the end I measure off the end just to make sure that it's good and that it'll come out pretty even [Music] there's a lot of stuff in the way but I wanted to show you so now I open the my window up I've been keeping it closed just to keep the weather out till I'm ready for this then I measured exactly Center in the building I'm gonna put the siding on first then install the window and seal it and then put the batten and trims around it so I made a mark all the way up just to confirm that it's the center of the building which it is so I cut some flat on the bottom and 812 on the top and then do the ones below the window since they're cut and then I can just go ahead and keep going around the window and all the way to the end [Music] so I'm building some door frames here for the double door what I decided that I'm gonna do is up here I'm gonna lap up over on to the top an inch and a half there on that two by and then I'm going to lap all the way down to the bottom so what I did here is I just built some door frames by 45 some two by fours I measured the overall opening and then I'm going to make everything a quarter inch gap so I have some room to swing so say for example this door opening is 60 inches wide so half of that would be 30 so I made each door 29 and a half now has a quarter inch on the edge here and between the doors so you'll see what I mean when I get it all together so what I did is I just laid it out here on the floor since it's a nice flat surface and I put a two by in the middle and then I put some braces just so it doesn't sag over time once I have the middle in there I just laid this board on top here and figured it out it was a 29 degrees on mine I'm just gonna hang one side at a time so that way I can get in and out easy enough what I did since I wanted a quarter inch gap I decided it's probably easiest to build this door in place so I made a shim there quarter-inch block on the side and on the bottom in that corner then I did one up there as well I didn't even do one up there I just kind of checked it to make sure it was okay and then I clamped it there with a clamp on the inside kind of help me hold it then what I did here I put a screw in I didn't put it in all the way but I made sure that was even on the outside and I just put a screw in there just temporarily to hold it and then I did the same up there just to temporarily hold it then on the inside trying to figure out a way to do it what I did is I just made this block and I screwed this part in all the way I made sure it was even for inside and out right there and then I put this screw in not all the way but just to hold it then that way this thing can't go anywhere I cannot take the clamp off I just wanted to show you want it on there then I did the same for the bottom I screwed a block in this way and then just put a screw that way my screws are three and a half inch so if I Drive them all the way through then they would stick in the way to put the siding on so I don't want to do that but it's mainly just to hold it there so it can't go anyway then what my plan is is I want to put the siding on on one side at the door I want to put the hinges on and then back my screws out then I can open that door mount my other one in there temporarily tack it in with screws and then just back him out when I side that one so that's my plan that way I can get in and out so to show you what I did here for my first board is I wanted to make it all out of one board so it looks continuous of course I didn't nail the top on the door side just into the door itself nailed it everywhere I could in the door and then I didn't have the bottom as well just into the door and I made a center mark and stayed back just a little from the center mark so I did that top and bottom and then I nailed the rest of the board going on up and I just kind of leveled it off of this board to make sure that it all lines up so I wanted to show you I got this side all sided now my goal is to get the hinges on this door that way I can move it the one on the far left there is even with the gap on top so it's an eighth inch taller than the rest that way it has room to open that's so I can mount my hinges and then what I did as a 1x4 across the top and then the two edges and then I put one in the middle for the hinge then I ended up putting a ten inch board at the bottom just so that way my hinge reaches because to take into account for the part that sticks down past the bottom there so it goes all the way down and I think it looks cool with that extra wide so that's what I did there so now I got to put three hinges on here and I wanted to do heavy duty hinges just want to show you what I'm doing here I thought black would look really good on here these are natural hardware extra heavy duty hinges there's six inches and I'll include a link in the video description below the video where you can get these if you want the best place that I could find them no place locally carried them I had to get them online so I wanted to show you that and then I'm gonna use quarter inch bolts that I painted the heads on with rust-oleum which I'll show you so for the bolts for the hinges I just used this rust-oleum it's a primer and paint together and I used it and I put all these bolts into the box like this just stuck them into a piece of cardboard it holds it up that way I was able to get around all angles and I painted the heads because of a lot cheaper to buy regular bolts and just paint them myself than to buy black ones well I got the rest of this sided all the way up through there so I left just a little bit of a reveal probably about an eighth of an inch between the door there and then a good eight on the top there between there is it about a light eight there on that edge of the door as well so now I got a trim it out with the battens like I did over there and then I'm ready to put the hinges on so the window usually I like to set it in the opening and check it because it's usually a little undersized so you can kind of split the difference from side to side and then make sure that it's level and everything is going to work now for setting the window is just a shed window so it's not quite the same as for a normal place unless you're doing this for a tiny house and you may want to do it differently if you're gonna insulate it and heat it I just use a window indoor silicone and then on the inside on the top I put a nice heavy bead along the top and if it squishes out a little it's okay cuz the trim is gonna cover it so I just put it on nice and thick on there and then when I put it on there it'll squish out I'm gonna use this outdoor rated screw to put the window in it's a slim head you can use this or use a nail like a roofing nail to set the window you okay a couple things about the window quick if you're just doing this for a shed this is a great window this is like $45 at Lowe's for a 2x2 window that's really hard to beat for that price a lot of them are more like 70 $80 at other places like Home Depot but this is a great option for a shed now if you're gonna do a tiny house where you're gonna live in it and it's gonna be heated and all that you may want to look at a little nicer window like a very well insulated window also white was the only option I kind of thought about doing like a clay colored to go with the shed but I thought you know for the price difference I'm gonna just do this one and I think it'll work great so I wanted to show a couple trim details nevermind my bright colored trim board up there I stained it it's gonna turn darker I like this side better than the other side so I flipped it over and stained it before I put it up and then so what I do is cut an 8 12 to go up on that end and then I cut it right to the long point there and then I trace the back side with a pencil even at the other and then I cut that and then nail that one up and then on this side going down the side here I'm gonna put a 1 by 4 up there to for a battened but on this side I put it up on there first on the outside and I make it even with that one right there then this one that's gonna lap over so yeah this is just a little trim detail this is how it came out so it's gonna be just over 2 inches I'm gonna cut in square and then go up at at 812 the rest of it I'll show it to you once I'm done there's the cut detail I was talking about over on the other side with a 812 on part of it and then square on the rest so on the board that's how I draw it out I do an 812 for a little ways and then I measure in on the flat part which was two and a quarter in my case for the square part and then mark it out so I cut this with a circular saw you can try some different methods if you want but I cut one way in than the other and then finish it out just with a knife or a jigsaw or whatever you have on hand you can even use a handsaw if you need to why don't I mention as you're doing trim out here if you have a little leftover of the rugged wood treatment you can just keep it in a bucket out here I have the brush there too in case you touch it up but whenever you make a cut on the end of a trim board you don't have to touch it up leader you can just dip it in this solution right here just for a couple seconds and then you can put it up and it's good to go you can see here like here's a cut end and I did I did that and so that'll darken over time but it's a lot darker than it was so I did that with that any kind of cut ends like there so anything like that where I do it I dip them the bottoms and the tops in the solution then you don't have to brush it on later and of course once you're done you just dip this down in the solution for a little bit and then once it's up for a little bit it'll change color [Music] so something I wanted to mention really quick about doing battens I just look in sight for center of the gap the crack in the board I don't get it perfect like I don't measure it out perfect because I think that's part of what makes it look rugged and rustic is to just do it by eye so I've done a lot of it so I don't really even think about it but I just nailed the top side it and then I sight the bottom and nail it and then as long as the Bratton's aren't really crooked which I can just kind of tell by eye then I nail the middle so if you have a really crooked batten you may want to do the measurement based on the gap there but I would recommend just putting it on there by eye [Music] you're doing siding up here on the gable ends what I do is say for example here you can see my pencil mark a little bit I measure from the center and measure like just under inch and a half because my boards are a little bit less than three inches so to split the difference and then to measure up from the bottom and measure that long point then I cut a 8/12 pitch on the top of that one and just line it up with the bottom down there so there's this national hardware latch that I really wanted to use on my shed because it's really rugged and heavy-duty has good reviews and all that but this part right here isn't long enough I could potentially cut this off and have a buddy of mine weld it I don't have a welder but I could have a buddy of mine weld it and extend this part since this goes through the door if you paint it with rust-oleum it would be fine I think but I decided that I'm not gonna do that I just wanted to show you guys that for an option if you want it I'll include this one in the video description as well the link to it if you are interested in checking it out but basically if you're looking for a black door latch for a shed there's only two options really that come up so the second option is this one right here okay for installing this door handle I want this door handle to be like this when it's closed just to open see how it works it's kind of fluffy right now just because I'm working on it but so what I did here is I centered it in this one by 4/4 up-and-down I wanted it centered up and down in this way and I drilled a thirteen thirty second drill bit hole through here I didn't want it too sloppy that's the science that'll work right there so my initial thought was I was gonna put bolts in here too so I didn't have to worry about somebody taking this off but since this goes through here and gets bolted in here I don't think there's much worry about taking it off my concern by putting bolts through here to the door is that this handle will rub and won't be tight then so then it won't latch tightly so you pretty much have to use the screws so these screws are square number one so then I put this part on that's a seven sixty-fourth allen wrench right there so when you turn the handle it locks on the other door just like that you want to put it on nice and snug so the one nice thing about this latch is that it is lockable when the key locks it you can't turn this at all so it's very secure that way like I mentioned it does have the square drive right there but you can take those loose but you still can't pull this out because the handle and there is locked in with that allen wrench and nothing actually does tighten down really good so I think there should be no concern about security somebody breaking in here that's also why I did carriage bolts all the way through if I just did like somebody could back out the legs but this way they're gonna have a lot harder time so for security I recommend the carriage bolts and me personally I found it's a lot cheaper to just paint your own carriage bolts with rust-oleum instead of buying them black because if you're they're already painted they can be quite expensive so you have to weigh that out and decide what you want to do so on these doors on the shed the one that stays shut on the left I got these latches there are a rugged heavy-duty latch and now include a link down in the video description where you can find those as well and they just screw on there and then they're spring-loaded you can pull them up out of the way or down out of the way whether they're top and bottom and they work really well okay so here is the first look inside the shed now that it's all done and cleaned out open it up so that's one door gonna undo the bolt here those things they lift down into place here's the upper one I apologize for the lighting in here it's getting a little dark but Wow check out how much room is in there you so now you can see how bright and shiny the wood is without the rugged stain on it too I think it looks really cool with the rugged stain on it it makes it look rustic and aged makes it look like it's been here for many years when in fact it's brand-new so total material cost for this shed I have 2,300 dollars in material I will do an itemized breakdown for you down in the video description of what everything cost but now if I looked at a comparable shed say at Home Depot and it was a lot cheaper quality build wise than this is it's the same size but that shed was fifty seven hundred and twenty three dollars so that's a lot of money when you're thinking about the price difference now yes I do have some time in building this but I wanted to show you that you can do a lot better option yourself and you know it's built correctly this way the ones that I saw anywhere else I was shocked at how poorly they were made so all the cost of materials I am not including the gravel but I'm counting everything else the gravel I had leftover from a project so I put that down and packed it down so I'm not including that in the material cost so a lot of this stuff I got at Lowe's it was the best price for some of the different materials one thing that helped out as I was able to find some coupons and I'll pass those along to you guys they're usually like a dollar or so so very cheap to get so any of the stuff that I used in this video whether it's tools or parts I'll include a link down in the video description as well so you can find the exact ones that I used if you're interested in that alright guys well I hope you enjoyed this video I know it was a long video but I hope it was helpful to you if it was let me know in the comments down below the video that I was helpful and if you did end up purchasing the rugged wood treatment I wanted to say thank you again to you because that will go to help support my channel and help support projects like this in the future and yeah so be sure to hit me up on instagram at smart easy DIY and also at rugged wood treatment on instagram and let me know share your pictures with me tag me in them so I can see what your project look like so alright guys I'll catch you in the next video thanks for watching

Channel: Smart Easy DIY

Views: 574,269

Rating: 4.9199295 out of 5

Keywords: How To Build A Shed By Yourself DIY, build a shed yourself diy, diy shed, diy garden shed, build a shed by yourself, diy mancave, man cave, build a shed yourself, do it yourself shed, building a shed by yourself, pallet shed diy, make your own shed, 10x16 shed, she shed, cabin, tiny house, diy cabin, green house, diy she shed, diy tiny house

Id: ABJQI8spi04

Length: 78min 45sec (4725 seconds)

Published: Sat Mar 07 2020