How to Build A Shed By Yourself (12 x 16)

all right welcome to the shed build here uh just as an intro this isn't a step-by-step guide for every single piece of the shed this is mostly just i filmed my process building my shed for myself kind of as a fun little documentation project as i went along was i worked with on it with my son and so we decided to put it up on youtube as there's several time lapses throughout and i kind of go through and explain my method i'm just an amateur do-it-yourselfer here and just kind of i'm building a shed i'm not using any set of plans but i did a little bit of research and watched some videos on my own that were helpful before i got started so i figured i'd kind of show my process and and learn from a few of the mistakes i made on my shirt along the way so anyway hope you enjoy the series and let's get started so i'm just going to start this little series out with a quick graphic of what we're going to be building so at least what i'm going to be building here and that is a 12 by 16 shed so you can see here from my floor plan this is kind of the idea i have for the shed i have a window here window here and then some two double doors here that's going to be 16 feet along this edge and 12 feet along this edge and it's going to be in my case raised off the floor so i'm going to build a full floor into it so let's just take a look at the 3d view here that i put together to kind of illustrate this before the process happens so there's kind of a couple of of uh ideas as far as your foundation goes and i opted to use these little concrete piers for my foundation so they're kind of this pyramid shape uh the ones that i ended up going with are they actually have little metal brackets so this little top plate right here will fasten directly into these four by fours and i ended up going with nine of these so i have one two three four five six seven eight nine and then my these boards here are my 16 foot boards so there's one two three those are the skids that sit on top of those piers and then i build my floor on top of those so my floor in my case i use two by four framing but i have a a two by four that runs lengthwise this way i guess this is crosswise every 16 inches on center where i ended up doing my floor and then my plywood on top of that for the floor so this is the basic layout so you can kind of visualize uh before we get started here just exactly how my shed is going to be now of course this is just a simple little model here my roof is going to be shingled i ended up doing two by sixes for my trusses i originally you'll see in my videos had planned to do a two by four uh roof trusses system but i ended up going with the two by six so one of the issues i ran into is when i cut my wall height my paneling here i ended up cutting it as if i was going to be a 2x4 frame so there's a little gap that i i filled in later with the the under edge for sort of that soffit stuff i do have a little bit of overhang on my final shade you can see this is just straight up but i ended up going with about a three and a half inch overhang on each side there and then really no overhang here on the gable ends it's just really the rain the rain gutter not rain gutter the rain drip edge i suppose and it overlaps about maybe an inch is all and then the trim is up there as well so that's kind of what it looks like um now the reason i decided to use these piers is i did want my shed up off the ground i'm going to be building my shed over where i have a piece of lawn so i ended up burying them however about three quarters of the way because i didn't want my shed to sit on top of these big ten inch piers and then the four by four skid and then the three and a half inch two by four floor you know i didn't want it to be a foot and a half up to step up into the shed so i buried these piers about three quarters of the way uh you'll see that in the video here in a minute once we get going but i ended up burying those that brought the height of my overall shed down the reason why you want to probably build these guys up on these piers is because it leaves an air gap underneath your shed and no moisture is going to be able to get up here and rot out any of your wood if you do have treated lumber i did my four by four skids are treated in the end and if you do have treated lumber you can actually set that right on grade you can set that on a typically a gravel so people will gravel and set that right on or if you can pour a cement pad of course that's probably the best but this is the way i opted to do mine and it turned out pretty well so just wanted to show you that quick sort of 3d render so you can get an idea of exactly what it's going to look like in the end and let's go ahead and get started with step one so this is my starting point just a quick picture that i snapped here i actually didn't take any videos or time lapses but this is what it looked like before i got started all right first step here in the building the shed series uh you can see here that i have cut out a little section here i actually rented a sod cutter from the big box store and came in here and cut out the section of sod so my shed is going to be at 12 by 16. it's going to go right in this area and right back there i cut out a little piece where i'm eventually going to put some gravel and park a lawnmower or something else besides there uh you can see here i've got a few of these cement piers uh these are just cinder block piers this is what i'm going to be using for the foundation for the shed i'll go over more details about that here in a minute i just wanted to show you the starting position here and then we'll go to a few different options on how to build the foundations and the option i'm finally opting for a couple things to consider when you're doing your foundation work is if you have a lot of moisture rain in your area you probably actually want to put down a water barrier some plastic and then maybe even on top of that four inches of gravel to help some of that moisture uh i'm kind of in a desert more of a desert climate here so i don't need to worry as much about that also you'll definitely want to check your local uh city for your building code you can see there's a fence line right over there that's this is the side of my house uh my local code calls for a 10 foot setback so i have to be 10 feet away from that fence where my shed goes for my particular city they don't require a building permit for structures under 200 square feet so my sheds just gonna be a little bit under that by 12 by 16 so i actually don't need a building permit but you do still need to worry about local code as far as setbacks and things like that so always double check that also some uh areas depending on your area for structures may require your footings instead of using these cement blocks like i'm using they actually might require you to dig down post holes and do a cement uh buried below the frost line like a two foot post hole so anyway i'll look at a couple of the other options for your for your foundations here in a minute but this is my starting point and from here i'll go through each step of the process i'm going to be at building a 12 by 16 shed and i'm going to kind of make it up a little bit as i go um i'm not following any sets of plans or anything like that i'm just kind of a little amateur do-it-yourselfer so here is my process hopefully you can learn a few things from the video and pick up a few ideas maybe on your own and learn from my mistakes as we go all right thanks getting ready to set my first uh corner here so i've kind of already measured away from the edge of my fence up there to 16 feet a little bit longer so i have a little bit of room to work over there but i'm gonna set my first cornerstone and then measure and mark everything off of this one uh so i've dug down i'm gonna actually set these pairs fairly low and the reason why is because i don't want them sticking out i want to build my shed to where it sticks up too high i've got this little patio here and my entrance is gonna be on this side so i don't want it to stick up terribly high when i walk into the shed plus i'm kind of digging down a little bit in here uh to set my cornerstones down in here so i'm gonna set all four corners and then i'll do the uh the middle pieces here in a second but you can see i've dug down i'm pouring some river rock gravel inside of there four inches is decent so i've got gravel in there as a base that just helps with water if it condenses down there when it freezes so it won't lift and raise the shed the gravel helps when the water expands with freezing then i've got some pea gravel here i'm going to pour inside of there to help me level these so i'm actually going to level each of my piers in place which is a little bit harder it's a little bit easier if you just build the wood on top of your pears here um so you can come in here and just you know build one out right there and then level off that but i'm going to run my skids along these so i'm actually going to level them in place so i'll get the first one and the second one set and show you how that's going all right here's all my pierce sets i've got nine piers uh i dug as i mentioned holes down the ground because i wanted to sort of recess these things down in i've got my gravel in there and i'll backfill that was dirt once i get my skids set on these i'll level everything up they're all pretty level right now but it definitely would probably be a little bit easier if you're going to bury them like this just to do concrete uh set inside of there typically these are used just for on grade right on your ground level for decks and whatnot but they served my purpose with a little extra work so there's that all right wood got delivered today so another quick update here we got all uh nine of my peers sort of buried down there again the reason why i buried him so deep is i didn't want my shed to sit way up in the air so i've got you know just an inch or so clearance underneath my skids there those kids are pressure treated that's why they're brown so that they'll be a little bit better for weather resistant uh now when i level this corner down here is a little bit off so i'm just gonna show you um so i can shim underneath this guy if i can get under here and show you so to get level you can see i can easily pop that up and i can just put some shims underneath there to level up all the sides here if i need to so make sure you use weather resistant shims if you're going to be doing that as well made out of same pressure treated stuff but there's my peers and then i'm gonna start building the floor these are just two by twelves because my shed is twelve by sixteen so these will run the entire length um all the way over there uh when you're doing your floor you want to make sure that you lay out your two by fours or two by sixes whatever you're building your floor out of all right when you're laying down your floor beams here you want to make sure that you have crown side up what that means there's a bow in every board and you want the bow to be up so that as your floor sags it will level itself out so i'm going to try to get the camera down here and show you so you turn your boards like this you look down like this and you can see that this bow is in so there's it kind of is an inward bow we want that side down watch what happens when i flip this board over i kind of pulled one that was pretty bad here to try to show you this and you can see how that bows up so you just look down the board and you can see which side it bows up or up up or down and then you want that crown up so that board should be laid like that the reason being is that as it sags as your floor sags you know that bowl will slowly get pushed out of the middle there so you need to look down all your two by fours make sure you have our two by sixes whatever your floor is made out of make sure you have crown side up then once you have those holes laid out we'll start to fasten it together okay this is just a little time lapse here to speed things up a little bit so i've laid out all my 12 foot two by fours across my skids there and i'm just going along here with a speed square on the end and i marked the three inches on each of these boards right here because i'm going to cut off three inches so that they can get back to their 12 foot lengths so just zipping those off and you can see i'm putting all the crowns up here so they fit back together all right just a couple quick things here so i've got all the boards all my 12 footers laid out across the skids there these kids are leveled and sitting on those tiers peters smith piers now i've come through you can see i've cut off three inches on every single one of my 12 foot boards and the reason for that being is there's going to be these end plates here so you know if you can imagine one of these on the other side as well so that's an inch and a half there's going to be one on the other side so i want my overall to be exactly 12 feet so i cut off three inches on those 12 foot two by fours right here so that with these two end plates one on this side put it up tight there one on the other side up there it'll be back to exactly 12 feet and that way my sheeting will fit nice my tongue groove floor that's going to go on here that osb comes in 4x8 sheets so it'll fit exactly 12 feet by 16 feet uh just another quick thing here when you're doing your end pieces here uh you want to do 16 inch centers um so there's 16 so i'm gonna center a two by four a floor joist i guess we could call those right there so there's gonna be one right there it's gonna be another one on 32 and then and the last one here will be right on 48 and the 48 one is really the important one you need to make sure that lands right on four feet uh because when you're doing your osb they come in four by eight sheets and they're gonna you know lay your floor reply with whatever you're doing clear across the floor and you want it butt up right against the edge so the four feet needs to come over and split the difference on this floor joist so that one of your sheets will you know kind of be from hair over halfway and the other sheet will start halfway over and go there so there's something to hold on so definitely make sure that your four foot mark is right in the middle of that uh 2x4 floor joist thing there same thing with eight feet and twelve feet and you're measuring those off another little quick thing you can see on these little piers that i use for my uh my footings if you will they've got these four screws so i'm gonna screw into these to tie that skid that 4x4 pressure treated skid all the way in and you'll want to use galvanized screws or some sort of pressure treated screw coated screw there they say that sometimes the material they use to pressure treat these can eat away it's just standard nails or screws over time so definitely use some sort of pressure treated uh fastener when you detach that there lastly here i'm just going to show you because my skids you can see that my wall uh this is not 16 feet so my wall is gonna you know start somewhere four or five inches over there overlapped and because of that it's a good idea to have these ties if i would have built my skids so that the out of this outer edge of the skid was directly on top of the wall in other words i was going to frame my wall straight up on top of that you know skid i'd probably be okay but i wanted to build them in a little bit so you want to get these little tie downs and they uh they're just going to come right on here on your on your joist when you whoops i guess i can show you over here on this side since i've got this piece right here so they'll come in like this and fasten if i can lift that guy up right there so they fasten in like this so to tie tie this piece in this piece because remember they're going to be overhanging out here a little bit so you want to try to transfer the load instead of just the two two screws that are going to go in there you want to transfer the load to the entire end beam there in member so you want to get these little fasteners and use those all the way along on both sides of your floor there all right that's it for now i'm going to put it back on time lapse and keep going okay so here i've got them all cut and i'm going to fasten on that runner down there on that end uh for the face uh so what i'm doing here just marking out all my centers and i actually drilled these in with screws you could easily come in here and fasten those with nails but i uh screwed each of these in and just lining these all up here and that's basically all we're doing here in this video okay so i've got both of my sides fastened on here and now i'm going through and putting all these little ties in so just go one by one here and you can screw or nail these little ties in so that's what i'm doing here and then i sort of uh center everything on my skids in the end to get it just where i want it all right just another quick update here so i've gone through and i've fastened all of these little floor joist hangers uh all the way down you can see on all my little two by fours there these aren't necessarily for probably a shed this size but because the this edge does overhang from my skid they say it's a good idea also i live in a fairly high wind area i do get gusts up to 40 45 miles an hour occasionally so i decided to go ahead and bracket those down just to make the floor a little more stable there so i'm going to show you how these little guys work i'm going to try to hold the camera with one hand we'll see how this goes but they just uh you just buckle up under here and you can see that there's a little spike on that side and that side so you get a hammer and you just kind of hammer that and spike that in and it'll pinch in then you can come back with your four screws and finish it off or nail it how are you going to do that so let's see if i can make one of these work here so i'm gonna try to hold this with my foot one second here hold this with my foot from the underside so you can't see it but you just come through and just tack one of those sides in like that and then attacking the other side this one i've already done let me try that again so i'm just going to pop this under here and hold it with my foot so i can kind of hold this camera with one hand you can see a spike right there you can just give this guy a crack in there then come back through on the other side i can't do this with one hand but oh that's not working anyway can't do it one hand but you tack that guy in screw them in and then you've got all those tie downs there so the last thing i need to do here before i put my sheeting on is square the uh floor here so in order to square this there's a couple of ways you can do this one method is doing the three four five rule which basically means you come to a corner here and you measure down one corner three feet measure down the other side here four feet and the cross the angle from here to there should be five feet so that's kind of your little pythagorean theorem there on your right angle three four and then that angle right there should be five a squared plus b squared is c squared so that's one way to do it um i find it a little bit easier just to go from corner to corner so if you take your tape and you go all the way to that corner pull it all the way to this corner and take a number let's say that's i don't know 20 feet then you come over here to your other corner and do the exact same thing all the way to that corner take your tape pull it all the way to this corner and those numbers should match so once those two numbers are exactly equal that means your floor is in square so you just need to tap on the corner a little bit to nudge around so you get that in square once you have your shed square you'll want to tie it down so it doesn't move so what i'm going to do is i'm going to come through this middle skid here and i'm just going to screw uh screws through each of those middle floor members all the way down just to kind of tack that in then on a few of the corners so i know that thing's not gonna move and then we'll be ready to lay the flooring all right sorry for the shaky video it's kind of windy so this shows you kind of what those floor joists look like there in that photo and then in this little time lapse here i'm just going through and screwing in all those middle floor joists down to those skids so that nothing moves at this point and get it all tied down and i'm also tying the skids to the little cement piers as well all right another quick time lapse here just of laying down here the flooring again this is the tongue groove stuff uh you'll notice that i am maybe noticed but i'm actually laying laying down a little layer of adhesive just some simple liquid nails underneath this that'll help your floor from squeaking and also you want to either screw or use the rigid nails when you nail this stuff down make sure you run your floor lengthwise across your floor joist to give you the most structure and alternate your rows and that's what it looked like when we were done all right just another quick update here so we hit the floor all down and just want to give you a couple quick tips uh on the floor so this is the tongue and groove stuff that i use you can see there's a little tongue right here and that fits into the groove side which is on the of course other side nothing you want to make sure here is when you're doing your sheets uh you want to run your sheets lengthwise across your four beams you don't want to run them with the floor brims you get a lot more strength when you maximize the coverage so right my floor joists run like this six inches on center and you want to run that all the way across them so you do your first row all the way across and then you want to make sure that you stagger the second row so you can see here that um you know that's going across that one's green there because it was the top of the stack there but that's where my joint is so this next piece you stagger so that's an eight foot piece that's an eight foot piece and my next eight foot piece goes right in the middle of that joint right there and then you cut a sheet so that on this end you can see the line right there that's a four foot piece for me that's my eight foot and then back here over the other side that's another four foot piece so you want to stagger those seams so that you don't have one big giant seam running all the way down the middle okay that's one tip um also another tip is when you're these tongue grooves are a little bit tricky to get in so once you've laid down you know your second row here and you're trying to get that groove to fit into the tongue it's a good idea to just grab a block of wood and uh you don't want to get a hammer and just pound on the edge of this tongue because you'll ding it up just like that and then your next one won't be able to fit in and you'll be fighting it the rest of the time you'd probably have to cut that little tongue off so get yourself a nice big block of wood this one's a little bit bigger than 16 inches so i could set it across two rafters lay that up to the side like that and then you can whack on this all you want hard to to nudge those tongue and grooves together so i get a big block of wood pound on the block of wood that'll keep your edge nice and clean there and won't uh ding that all up uh lastly i did put a little bead of glue down i just got some of the liquid nails type of adhesive and put that um on all my joints just so that my floor never lifts uh probably not necessary also i used a few screws on each of my boards so wherever there was a seam like right here there's a seam right i make sure i made sure to do a a screw and a screw one there one in the middle and then one on the end the seams are where it can typically lift where they run along like that so i did screws there i did some screws on the outside edges and then periodically through the middle i went ahead and just did some nails now i want to show you this nail if i can get this to focus here uh maybe that's not gonna focus so this nail is a can't really see i don't know if you can see but it's it's not a smooth shank so you can see down there at the very bottom is smooth and then up the nail it's a little bit ridged uh it's got a little bit of a groove in it those hold a lot better inside of a floor and it's focusing a little bit better but so you want to make sure to get these uh sort of textured or grooved nails those will keep the if you're going to if you're going to be nailing down your floor of course they work a little bit better for floors because then your floor won't raise if you have a smooth shank nail it can slip a little bit and the floor can raise where these kind of grip into the underlying joists a bit better so that's a couple tips there uh next we're going to go back on uh time lapse mode while i put up i'm gonna put up this back wall and this wall here uh before i do that i'm gonna explain a couple of things on just how i'm doing my height and reason why and a few things like that so stay tuned all right for this next little video i'm going to kind of demonstrate how i determined my wall height so you can see i've got this 4x8 this is just kind of this osb siding stuff that has the stamp to see cedar looking side that's already primed you can paint later and it comes in exactly eight foot sections and i want that eight foot section to cover my entire wall as well as come down so i need that to when i laid up here i want that eight foot section to come down and cover up this as well so in other words it's got to extend past the bottom here you know three and a half inches same width as that two by four yes uh so if this is a standard wall right you have your bottom plate you have your two by fours for your studs and then i'm gonna do a double top plate uh you can see that just i have 92 inch two by fours but just a single top plate that's exactly eight feet now i'm going to have two here on the top a double header plate on the top you can see that's already too big so i've got to cut down my two by fours so i want it to hang off on the bottom three and a half inches and i want also a three and a half inch uh gap on the top because i'm going to have my roof trusses uh sort of come in like this i want that siding to also cover the roof dress so that's going to kind of sit like this right uh this will be a little bit definitely easier to see when i get the wall up and the siding on so in other words i need to cut down my two by fours so that the overall wall uh height from the bottom of the bottom plate to the top of the two top plates is 92 inches and that way that gives me you can see here my eight feet i've got to cut those down so i have a little bit of overhang um with these two guys in fact they might even go more than 92 inches because i want three and a half on the bottom and i want three and a half on the top so that is seven inches so we go one two three four five six seven so 89 inches is what my uh two by four my wall height is going to be so it's gonna be seven feet five inches which is plenty high for me i don't need this super giant tall thing anyway so that's what i'm going to do i'm going to cut off all my two by fours so that my overall wall height is correct and then i'll start framing up a wall and show you how that looks all right there's really nothing terribly exciting here i'm just laying down all of my two by fours and cutting them all to length for my wall height uh and then lay them all out crown side up kind of rinse and repeat several times so i'll just kind of let the footage roll here for a second for the next segment for the next 20 or 30 seconds all right this should make a little bit more sense now that i've cut a 2x4 down so what i did is i took i cut my two by four exactly at seven feet so you can kind of see now you know if this is the this is the bottom plate there's gonna be that three and a half four inches uh right there it's gonna overhang down below there when you lean the wall up to cover that side and there's an inch and a half you know two by four there of course i've got my seven foot two by four right here and i've got the two header plates which will go right here and then that gives me also a three and a half inch uh space on the top of my siding and that's where a rafter will come in so you can see the rafter is going to come in like this so that siding is going to go up course it'll be cut at an angle that siding is going to go up and all the way and cover the rafter so that's how i decided on my wall height seven foot two by four uh inch and a half inch and a half there so there's three inches inch and a half on the bottom there's four and a half inches so it's going to be about seven foot five inches for my height but that way i can just use a single sheet of siding to cover up everything including that little bottom area right there uh so i need to cut off seven and a half inches of off or eight and a half i can't remember off of all my two by fours so i just sort of planked them all together like this and you can just do a gang cut which is where you cut them all at once so i just drew a chalk line across there make sure my end was squared up i'm going to have my wife stand on that piece of 2x4 so they don't move come across with a circular saw and just buzz all those ends off all at once so then i'm ready to start nailing up the walls all right back to time lapse all right i've got this one wall all laid out here uh it's a similar thing as when you do the floor if you want to lay your two by four in this case wall studs uh crown side up so you want the bow you know if there's a bow on the board you want that on the top uh the reason being for this i mean this of course isn't the floor so it's not going to sag but if you put the bow crown up it'll make sure that your two end pieces so that makes sure that your two end pieces stay flush on the ground when you're nailing those in okay i've found my feet speed square just these little guys like this you see the carpenters use a lot and these are easy because once you do your marks uh you just come in here you just drop your square like that and then uh it's a lot easier if you have both your hands then you just come across like this right and just do a quick mark like that so you mark across do your x um then just do that all the way down i'll show what that looks like once i did it all right i've marked all these out uh so you can see just a line and an x line in the next two by four goes right where the x does um so example would go just like that so you line all your two by fours up all the way you go ahead and nail it i do have a little air pressure knee that i'm going to use that i borrowed but if you don't you can easily just hammer nail these things together so i'm going to do this one lean it up and i'll do that back one because it also doesn't have any uh windows so time lapse mode again okay just another time lapse here of me nailing together this side wall here i wanted to mention at this point though i did make a mistake on my second wall so after i finish this when i start my other wall i measure i made a mistake on my measuring so i did this while on 16 inch centers which is correct but my other wall remember it sits in three and a half inches and i didn't account for that i just did 16 inch centers on my back wall as well so i realized my mistake after i had already built the wall so i just decided to add two extra studs but just so you're aware uh don't make that same mistake a little bit ahead in the video i explained the the error i made okay this wall and the one opposite this wall is the one i made the mistake on but you can see i'm laying out the wall here and i put down all my studs on 16 inch centers but you have to realize this wall sits inside of that other wall so there's a three and a half inch uh gap so basically the problem is is once i laid this up all of my studs are no longer on 48 inch centers according to the outside edge so my sheeting did not land on a stud when i when i put my sheeting up so you need to make sure you remember that and account for that three and a half inches and start your stud on 16 inch centers from that point over that way your sheeting will always land on 48 inches or four feet uh centers and hit a stud so to get around the problem wasn't a big deal i just had to add a couple extra two by fours in my wall at the end actually realized my mistake after i had started to set up the uh second wall i didn't realize it here yet but as soon as i started laying this one out i realized my mistake right here but i just decided to to continue with it how i did and had the extra studs but anyway later on the video i think there's another explanation once i have all those walls up to show the issue a bit a bit more clear and this is the first wall here you can see that i've uh run into a window so i have a window on this side so i'm framing in the window and in the next little video here i explain how those windows are framed all right this little video here i have to do a voiceover on this section because it was so windy you can see the 2x4 is actually wiggling right there it was so windy that it didn't pick up my voice very well when i was explaining this originally so this is just a quick video on how to frame out a window or an opening inside of a wall so you can see i've got a little 36 i think my window is 36 by 36 inches um so just a couple of things to remember is you still need to maintain your 16 inch on center for all of your studs going all the way across your span even though there's all these extra two by fours in here make sure you maintain that spacing through your wall so the basics of a window or any opening really could be a door or or anything is the top plate up here is inside of what's known as a header so this board right here you can see at the top of the screen is a header board and it's really just two two by fours with a little uh piece of i think it's 5 8 inch osb is what i used uh sandwiched in the middle there and so you cut that guy to the you know the width and then just hammer it together there and you can kind of see that that makes it so that the header board is the same width as your two by four studs so three and a half inches so each of these two by four is just an inch and a half inch and a half that gets you back to three and then you need to have a little half inch piece right there in the middle to get you to three and a half so that's how you build your headers now this is a two by four header depending on your code um or how big your opening is you may need to do a two by six header or a two by header but this is just a little small opening on the shed 2x4 was fine for this 36 inches here now a little bit of the terminology there's this outer stud that runs all the way to the top to the bottom and it's a full length stud and that's called a king stud so the very outer one on the outside edge is a king stud meaning it's the longest tallest stud so you can see it right there i point to it and then inside of the king studs that middle one there i think they call that a jack stud and the jack stud goes up and that's what the header sits on top of so you can see that you know your top plate is going to sit down like that but your header board sits on top of those jack studs so the jack studs go down all the way like so and then the sill plate right here is what the window of course is going to be sitting on so the sill plate also sits on this left and right little two by four that run down to the bottom and so the sill plate sits on that and then in between your your leftover middle boards they call studs so those are the two sort of in the bottom of the window opening there the boards and those are the ones you need to make sure they still need to be on 16 inch centers uh as you move along from the outside edge so your standard spacing is maintained there so that's basically how you frame out the window i think this is me just pointing out again 16 inch centers here when you're doing your windows i don't have a top gap so above my window i don't have any area because i built my window all the way to the top of my wall but if you did have a top gap on the above your header above your header for the window frame you would also need to put studs on 16 inch centers above right up there where i'm showing my fingers but again since i built mine all the way to the top i didn't need to worry about that but you may need to if your windows sit a little bit lower in your wall so that's the basics of framing out a window uh you can kind of just look at the video there and see how that's outlined not too tricky the only other thing i will mention here is that you know you want to nail all these boards together so before you nail that sill board to the jack stud you want to nail the king and the jack studs together and then nail the sill to the jack so that they're all you know solid you don't want to try to go through all three boards with one nail that won't be sufficiently strong also in your window opening so if you have a 36 by 36 inch window like i do you want to make your opening 36 and a half by 36 and a half so you want a half inch gap at least or at least a quarter inch gap all the way around probably preferably even a half inch gap around your windows so you want to build in a little extra room there so you can shim up your window and get it just how you want it don't build it exactly the same width as your window your probably never get it in all right so here i'm back on time laps just kind of now screwing everything together and then we lean this wall up and tack it down to the bottom so just more time lapse here this is all more of the same you can see that i've uh stapled down to the sides of my walls just a couple of these two by fours just to balance my walls so they don't uh move so much it's kind of a windy day when i was working here so i didn't want them rocking all over so that's what the little two pieces are again it would be better if i would have built this wall second so i should have built my my side walls both first and second on 16 inch centers and then built my two end walls to account for that mistake i made earlier this wall has a window and a door opening so this is my main entrance into the to the shed so it's a bit more complicated because it has two different openings and one of the openings is pretty large where i'm going to be building my double doors so it took a little bit more framing to get that right but it's basically the same process you just frame that all out in 16 inch centers quick update here all four walls are now up so there's the front there's a little long window there's my two windows kind of a tip here uh you can go to your local glass store and they usually have like a junk pile of bone yards or their oops pile the things they made wrong or something so i got these two windows for your four dollars per square foot or something uh each one was like 40 bucks or something so anyway because it's a shed i just kind of bought the windows and then i just built the built my openings according to the window size so that'll save you a little bit of money for shed uh so here's the uh opening here for my double doors are gonna hang right here so you can see this is one of those openings with a header that has a little top uh pieces nailed up in there uh last thing i need to do here is put on my uh extra header plates i'm gonna do a double header and then i've gotta determine my rafter sphere how i wanna do those but one quick oops mistake i made i realized this one ways back but it was too late to fix so when i was building my walls i initially was going to do this back wall first then i was going to do this front wall and then lift my sides up in between but as i was going along i just said well i'll just do the two walls i don't have any windows first what i didn't do which kind of a hindsight you think oh my gosh that was done but on this wall right here i started building it and i left myself three and a half inches because i knew this front wall was going to go in front of it but my problem is i started measuring my 48 inch centers off of this beam right here i completely spaced that i was going to have that gap there so i went from here and did my 16 inch center studs which now means that my outside when i come and put my sheeting on my four foot section is not going to land on a stud so that was really dumb don't make that same mistake make sure you do your 48 inches on center from the very very outside of the wall i actually made that mistake there so it's not too bad of a fix i just have to get two extra two by fours and you know i'll just throw in an extra two by four where the four foot hits there and where the forefoot hits there so two extra two by fours in there and that way that'll fix that little problem but kind of dumb all right back to warp speed all right we got all my top plates all put in everything's now framed all the walls are framed uh the only really thing to mention here is that when you're doing your uh tall your top plates if you do happen to have splices like i had right here uh you can kind of see that right there there's a splice so you want to make sure that your top plate right close to the top if you don't want two splices to sit on top of each other so just make sure you alternate those if you do happen to have splices like these two end walls anyway that's all done so now i've got my pile of two by sixes i'm gonna use these for my little rafters um so i was originally gonna do two by four rafters but after reading online a little bit they said that a 12 foot span like i have for a shed 2x6 is probably a better idea so i decided to go with 2x6 on 12 inch center it'll stir still work out fine with the way i'm going to do a little top siding because i'm going to end up cutting those rafters down square but i'll show you how that works what we're actually going to do is we're going to use our shed floor here to kind of build us out a little jig so we can easily just slide in you know a rafter on this side rafter on this side and then screw them kind of at the top and make sure angles are all right so that is coming up right now all the walls are up just a time lapse here where i'm starting to put up the siding this actually goes pretty quick um so you just start throwing up your siding and what i did is i decided to screw my siding in and in hindsight i would not have done that so i don't like the way this particular siding that i bought when you would screw into it really kind of shred up this stuff and create kind of a little uh nest if you will around the screw heads which kind of looked ugly and i didn't like the way it did that in the end so i would have uh you don't actually have that problem you can see the what the floor is made of that osb on the floor the more expensive siding is made of the similar type of stuff and the screws don't pop out like they did in this cheaper stuff uh so i probably would have used nails instead of screws had i known that i was going to shred those little screw holes up so much or i could have gone through and pilot hold every single one of my screw holes which would have been a nightmare so i would have definitely nailed this instead of screw it i'm also gluing each of my panels as i'm going the reason why i decided to glue is just because these panels seem a little bit cheaper than the other stuff they didn't seem as sturdy so i just said well i'm just going to throw in some glue so they don't move at all when i get them all screwed in there so i actually went in with a little sander at the very end before i painted and tried to sand off a few of the little burrs on the screws to make it a little bit better but yeah i didn't really like how that came out so probably nail instead of screw if you have that same type of stuff in the next little video here i'll show you how i did uh you could do this with one person but definitely a little bit easier with two especially if you're working with these full sheets uh but just a couple tips there right another update here so i've got all the siding on there's all this one side i kind of want to show you what this looks like so i've got a sheet light down here on the ground uh you can see there's a little groove like this and the other edge has an offsetting groove glabs buckles down into it so you set your first sheet this was your left edge of your shed you'd start here right and go this way and then what you do is these things just overlap so this just overlaps sits in right like that and you just screw that screw in just right here so you don't need to do screws underneath you don't need to go through right here because when you set the second one on top like that you'll screw in right there through both sheets so that's kind of how they buckle together so you'd start with a sheet right here come all the way to here put this sheet on top and then screw through both of them or nail if i happen to screw mine probably most people actually nail theirs but i have these little outdoor screws that are kind of coated so i just went ahead and screwed it was a little bit easier a lot of people will like to put their siding on before they actually lift the walls up so while the while the 2x4 studded walls are on the ground they'll put the siding on working by myself it's a little bit trickier for me to do because they get really heavy when you get those all on so i decided to just put the siding on afterwards quick tip that just kind of helped out uh lifting this thing up so i just kind of made myself a little lever here so you can see this is because i wanted my siding right to be right at the bottom there i don't know if you can see under there and so this all i have to do is just you know stand on this little two by four right here with my foot and then i can drop a sheet on and it was i actually had two of these i had one here and then one there so i could just put two of these little levers push down right here and it would lift the wall right up and exactly even with the bottom where i wanted it and i could screw the left side and just kind of work your way across nothing really fancy there i just would kind of go one there and then tack one over here to kind of hold both sides and then screw away eventually i'll i'm going to paint over this so i'll be able to see all those little screw marks because it's this stuff just comes primed it doesn't come painted so the kandai bot is actually a little bit cheaper variety you can see here on the back that it's just kind of this smooth osb stuff as opposed to you know your typical osb sheeting that's like this they do make this same siding with the back that's like this and it's actually a lot more sturdy so if you can it's also more expensive it's about 30 bucks a board or something for those and these ones right here where i think 18 bucks a board a sheet so i went with the cheaper ones because i didn't end up getting the cheaper ones i just bought a little bit of that liquid nail glue and i just ran a little bead uh as i was putting these up along all the two by fours on the outside edges you can see i kind of see a little glue squishing out there i mean that stuff's only like two dollars a tube so i got three tubes of that that covered uh three or four tubes i think did this entire thing so i just locks up the walls a little bit tighter um so anyway everything's all sheeted there so we will build the rafters next okay so right here is just a quick little time lapse of how i'm building a quick little jig so i cut two rafters to length with my correct angles and then measured out um i laid them down and measured out a little gusset on those but so i'm just laying them down then i get these four little pieces and i tack those down to the floor and that way i can just you know screw this little gusset in like this pop the rafter out and keep going after so i'm gonna what i'm gonna do is trace out this gusset i think they call these gussets which is i don't know who names these things so i'll trace out that on a sheet of osb and just i need to cut out i think 14 of those some people just do them on one side some people do them on both sides of your rafter beam there i think i'm gonna probably do mine on both sides and i'll end up doing my rafters 24 inches on center so that's my next task i'm not going to video that it's kind of just a repetitive task i'm going to cut out a whole bunch of those and then i'll stick my boards back in my jig and screw them all together so that's coming up all right so just a quick uh update on these guesses so i'm tracing out all these gussets now the sheets are 4x8 so i decided to make my guess it's two feet in width i don't know if there's some exact measurement you're supposed to do those on i just kind of made this up uh but it seems to work well so what i did here i made sure of course that my angle there is the same of my same as my roof pitch i opted for a 512 pitch which is i think 22 and a half degrees so anyway i stuck my template there after i cut out one and then slide it over trace it slide it over there and that way i can flip it right in the middle so i'm just trying to minimize my cuts basically like that trace it and then it flips back up back to two on that side so i don't know if you can see my pencil lines but there's one there's two there's one upside down there's one there's two there's one upside down one two anyway so all the angles match up so i just have to cut across those lines and i'm cutting out a whole entire sheet of these things with minimal cuts so that's kind of how i did that i mean it gives me i don't know 13 or something like that these guys in one sheet so i'm going to cut these out i'm going to cut them out i'm going to set my saw so that the depth of my blade is the exact same depth as one of these sheets i think they're i think i got half inch and then i'm actually just going to cut that right in place so that i don't have to move it all around really nice and easy all right bye all right so i'm cutting my rafters and i'm doing mine out of 2x6 so my method kind of here is i cut the end off my 22 and a half degree angle um now i have a six foot six rafter have a 12 foot span so this is six foot six for one side uh which is my 512 uh pitch and then i slide it down i measure six foot six along this top edge and i cut the second one at the exact same angle now in order to get this one side to f sit flash and then just pull it out grab your little speed square and you can just square it up right on that side and i'm coming in four inches so i just put this right where my square is right there at four inches on the top grab a pencil here uh draw a line so we oops trying to hold the phone and do it at the same time it's always hard with one hand uh so put that on get that back up there where i want it put that on four inches draw a line across and then that's what i'm going to cut off uh so it'll sit flat so once i cut that end off this of course will be paired with another one and then it'll sort of look like this so here's a build one right so that edge is going to sit right on top of my top plate and then this screws into the middle with my little gussets i showed earlier and then a matching pair on the other side with that also squared off right there so that's how i'm doing each of my rafters i have all my middle rafters are going to be these two by sixes and on the two very ends i'm actually going to do two by four uh because i've got to do some ports right i'm going to put some stuck so one here one here one here so i built myself this little jig so basically i laid my first rafter in there and measured the bottom right measured across to make sure it was 12 feet right on from end to end which is my span there and then i set these four boards and actually screwed them or tacked them into my floor so they don't move so then i can just drop a board in drop a board in now make sure it's plumb there and all i have to do is just drop the guest on and screw it in flip it over to the other side another thing you want to make sure on this part is you don't want your gusset to go up past that at all so you definitely want to make sure probably even drop this down a little less than a quarter of an inch or something like that on all sides so it doesn't stick up past your rafters at all and just nail or screw that guy in and that's how we're gonna do these rafters all right my two end rafters are up so this is how i've done those those are just studs on 16 inch centers just like the walls except i put one right in the middle so you can kind of see that they all have the 2 and a half degree level and i just nailed them all in like so and i tried this little certainly there's one more over there and same thing so the way i kind of built those i actually did the very middle 2x4 and the two little tiny kicks right here on the floor so i just laid them up against one of my pre-built two by sixes and then just laid that two by four here along the top edge uh you know right all the way up there measure down my little gap right there for my little two and a half inch block or whatever and measure the exact middle right here all the way up to the very top down to the bottom so i cut that middle piece i got the little four inch blocks on the end and then i i screwed those lock sand so i screwed those in lifted it up on the wall with just the end pieces and then i just cut all the rest of them uh set for length for each side like so and toenails all in so now i'm gonna pull a string so we're gonna pull a string line from the middle of this one all the way over to the middle of this one and that'll make it easy so we can lay out the rest of the rafters on 24 inches and get those peaks right where they need to be all right i am ready to cut out my windows here i'm waiting for some help to do my raptors to have some help flip those up so in the meantime i'm going to cut out these windows so you can see that i just put my little outside sheeting right over the top of my windows i didn't cut them out ahead of time and then what i'm going to do is i'm coming through and i just did a little drill mark in each corner as you can see there's a little drill right up here in this corner a little drill mark so i just drilled through little teeny tiny holes in each four corners and then on the outside edge here all you do here is just tack in a quick nail so in each of my drill marks i tacked in a little teeny tiny nail then i just pull a string line just wrap it around each of those nails one two three four and then just snap off uh that window so that's where that window's gonna go and then i'm gonna come in with my skill saw again just set my blade length the same width as this uh sheeting here i think it's 7 16 or something and then i'll just go ahead and just buzz those out saw sauce all four corners that window will all pop right out exactly measured up so that's what i'm gonna do next so i've got a little handheld battery skill saw which is makes this a little bit nicer but you just come through and buzz these edges i came with a little saw here you can see to clean up those corners so i didn't tear them out and then just cut those out and pop out the windows and then you should have a perfectly cut window uh right where it needs to be so this is a lot easier i think than cutting out those gaps ahead of time so here we're now ready to uh put up the roof rafters um so i've got some help here my wife my boy came over to help me lift these guys up so all we do here is we're just lifting all these guys up and tacking them on as we go now you can see this little board kind of sticking out of the rafters as i'm going here and it's kind of a windy day and so i lived kind of in a windy area so i didn't want these guys really you know shaking around so i kept this little stringer board going out on my 24 inch centers and i would just tack that into each rafter as i went so that they stayed solid and didn't move around until i could get my sheeting up on the roof and tie it all together so that kind of worked really really well for me just that little teeny tiny runner along those rafters tucking that down as i went so here we're just hoisting up the sheets of roofing that's just regular osb and tacking those down and really once you get that osb tacked down on the roof with a few nails and screws everything you can you can fill the entire shed just really kind of become solid so you start tacking down those on the roof and everything just tightens right up so that's what i'm doing here it's the same processes when you're doing the floor you want to make sure you just do you know your two long pieces overlap as much as you can so do them lengthwise and then never have a splice going up on your second row so you got to alternate your splices as you're doing your roof sheeting as well just a couple of stills here when the roof was going on you'll also notice that i overhung my uh roof about i think it was three and a half inches and i did that on purpose because i wanted to put a piece of trim underneath there to have a little overhang on the sides so that's why i overhung that just a little bit on each side coming down so the next little piece here is going to be a quick update on painting so once i got my roof on i finished off my siding put the little z channel in and then started to paint okay another quick update here so i have just finished painting uh the shade i chose is actually just a little bit darker than that original prime so it probably looks about the same uh so i've got everything painted here got all my trim cutting paints a little bit lighter almost looks white here on the video but it's kind of a super light brown and i just wanted to show quick this little z track that i put in so you can see right there right along the middle where there was a seam before i put this little metal seat track and that's just supposed to help with water so that if water you know runs down here from the top it won't seep down at the top of that board right there so their little z track will come out and run down there and down this wall all the way to the ground is the idea so this is what this little z-track stuff looks like it's just a little metal uh metal piece like this it's kind of bent in a z and you just slot it up in there like so and that's it so i put that on each of my ends uh i don't necessarily even think that's necessary because i'm gonna be ended up i'm gonna put a piece of trim across that so the trim would probably serve the same purpose but i was only like i don't know three or four bucks for a 10 foot piece so it was only eight or nine dollars to do both ends so i just had to throw it on so the last little piece i wanted to show here is how i'm gonna end up doing my little overhang i know i've mentioned this before but i have this little gap underneath there you can see where the top of my siding doesn't quite hit the top of the roof and that's because i was initially going to do two by four um studs for my ceiling rafters right but i ended up doing two by sixes at the last minute just because i thought it'd probably be a little bit better so i didn't have this nice uh this you know didn't go all the way to the top like i had originally planned for when i cut out my wall heights and everything so not a big deal because what i'm going to do is i'm just going to cut a little piece of this osb the same stuff i sheeted the roof with just a little basically a three and a half inch strip then i've got this little piece here to kind of show you how this will work so this is going to come up under one second here come up under like that so that's my little strip that's gonna go on the bottom and then i'll just have a little i'm gonna rip one of these these things are three and a half inches i rip it right in half and that gives me a piece that's gonna go right here on the face to cover that up and then of course my uh drip will go over the top of everything in the shingles so that's what i'm going to do and you can see that actually cleans up the gap there in the middle so you can't see the gap anymore as well so i'm going to rip a little sheet and then i'll tack this on and show you what that looks like date just finishing up here some of the trim and kind of see how it looks here on the edge there i'm going to come down of course both corners four corners as well um and here's how i'm kind of doing this one edge here so i've already showed how i did underneath here so i just took one of those three and a half inches and ripped it right in half i actually don't have a table saw so i just did it with a skill saw but then you can see i'm just tacking that right in like that i've glued behind these and i'll come back and put a couple of screws to make sure it doesn't go anywhere but that's and that'll fit right there and my rain gutter is gonna eventually come over and come to about right here so that's how that'll kind of finish up along the edges all right so just another time lapse here i'm just putting up the trim here on the underside you can see i'm using these clamps one part that was just to help me hold it up while i drilled but also i i was drilling from the bottom up and it kept pushing up the the roof so well i should have pre-drilled these holes and i would have eliminated that problem but that's why i'm clamping there just to kind of hold that tight while i drill down from the bottom there and tighten those up and not a lot to see here we're just going through and measuring cut the trim measure cut trim measure cut trim and putting that all around the edges here so we'll just let this roll okay most of the trim is done so in this video i'm coming through with the roof uh what's this tar paper so the underlayment the tar paper so i've come up here and i'm just laying down the tar paper and tacking that all in place and you want to have your tar paper done uh before you start doing your rain gutter or i guess drip edge is what i'm doing here so i'll kind of show you a couple tips on this drip edge because there's a couple of gotchas on some goes under and some goes under the tar paper okay we're back out here and i have got all the felt paper on the roof here and i've also got three quarters of the trim on for the trim the rain gutter and it's going to hang down like so uh just a couple of little reminders when you're doing you are going to stand up on this ladder so you can see you're doing your rain gutters your drip edge whatever you want to call those this little drip edge here uh the eaves so the gable ends right there of the house for your shed i guess the felt paper goes underneath the edge of your drip edge and down here on the straight edge the felt paper goes over the top and that's so water you know can run over here and drain off and then it's on the side there in case you have hard weather where you have rain coming in like a sharp angle like this you don't want that rain getting in between the felt paper and shingles and running down your wood roof so you put the drip edge on top of the felt paper so that if it does you do have a driving ring that's sort of sideways it'll come on top and still run down the edge of your thing off the edge of the roof so that's how you do your drip edges just make sure also when you're rolling out your felt paper you start on the bottom edge and work your way towards the peak that way you always have an overlapping piece on top so the you know the water can drain down on top and then once you get on the top you loop this over and you start on the back side and work your way up this way so that that top crown piece overlaps both edges so the water always runs down and never underneath the piece of paper so now we've got this up we're ready to do uh i'm gonna i'm gonna snap some lines i'm not gonna use these lines on the felt paper because mine are a little bit off i didn't get so close i'll snap some chalk line show you how that works and we'll start to roof last thing before we do that is i'm going to take you over here and show you how you do a corner so on your drip edge you can see the corner there has a nice little curve to it so you just always want to make sure you overlap a couple of inches and to do a corner you just snip a little teeny piece right here at the bottom you leave this piece whole and then you snip all the way across the top from the back and you can see now i've got this one already pre-snipped but you can see watch just how easy this bends there we go so then you just bend that corner in like that and that's how you do your corners then you can just tuck that up under make sure to keep your felt paper on top or underneath however you're doing your corner then you have a nice little corner like so and that's how you do the corners on your drip edge to do the eaves or not the eavs rather the points up there it's actually a lot easier you just do one snip um in the middle so once you're doing your top piece you actually just snip right here right across there and then it'll just fold down and fold down so anyway we'll put her back on warp speed and then give you an update when we're starting the roofing the shingles so here i set the camera up on time warp again and um just coming up through here and i'm actually snapping chalk lines i think i did every five inches here uh in the end once i actually did my first couple of rows those lines that were on the felt paper were actually pretty much right on so after a couple of rows i stopped using the chalk lines and just eyeballed it according to those lines and it came out just perfect so while helping it started here i didn't end up using the chalk lines the rest of the way through the roof so what i'm doing here is just laying down the starter row so i lay down a starter row of shingles then my first row of shingles and then you kind of work your way into a corner like this so you work a corner all the way up and that allows you to kind of sheet all the way across before you have to do another corner so you can see i'm doing three or four rows at a time that way i can reach basically as far as i can on the ladder and i'm able to do a large portion without getting on the roof so that's kind of why i'm doing that there so you kind of start from a corner work your way over and then that's how you do it so you can see here just building up a corner and it's just kind of rinse and repeat here this is the opposite side of the roof now so doing the same thing start at a corner three or four rows tall then you work your way across work your rick or ass work your way across so just a lot of repetitive stuff here if you can you want to definitely shingle at night or in the morning because if it's in the middle of the day and it's hot that tar on the shingles really heats up and they are really sticky they're really hard to get apart and more importantly when you walk on it a lot like you you do when you're when you're roofing it'll really tear up your shingles when they're hot so if you can do it during a cool part of the day definitely do that so anyway let's let this time lapse roll and then i do a couple explanations here on the next video on how to do your starter strip for your shingles we've got it all all the way to the top we're just about ready to set our roof caps and we've got this side done as well so i just wanted to go over a couple of quick things i didn't really do any videos on roofing but it's not all that difficult so the only kind of uh thing you need to do with roofing is you always start with what they call a starter strip which is this little half of a shingle so you take a full shingle and you cut it off so all the tabs are cut off and you end up with just this half shingle and you want to keep our strip on it and the reason why you want to do that is because you'll start with this starter shingle as your very bottom row with the glue right down towards the edge and that helps glue the first edge down so that it doesn't flap up in the wind so you stick a starter strip as your very first row like that of course you'll have a whole set of these and you okay so you take that starter strip and you just run it as your first row all the way down some people like to overhang it a quarter of an inch past your drip edge and same thing on the sides i kept mine fairly simple and just i kind of just kept it right on the edge here of my drip touch inside and i overhang maybe just a quarter of an inch on the end there so once you have that first row all the way done then you then you start with your first shingle row so the way you want to do your shingles is to make it easy on yourself to kind of do a staggered pattern like this so you start on your very left edge over here if you start with your starter rose and went this way you need to make sure that you cut your starter off so it doesn't have a either your starter row or your first full shingle so you never want two seams like this you never want a seam to overlap on your starter row seam so what you can do is you can just take a full shingle uh like this so shingles are typically 36 inches wide and 12 inches tall so you take a full shingle and you just cut this first tab right in half now on shingles it's kind of handy because they have these little slits you can see it's right there there's a little teeny slit you can see that there's a slit there and um there's a slit there so they make it fairly easy to show you how to cut those in half so what you do is you just grab your speed square if you go from the back edge it's really really easy to just snap off so you just put your square down all you have to do is score a line you don't have to cut all the way through the shingle so you just score a line on the back flip it over mine's got a smaller square score line up and then you just fold the shingle like so you just fold it it'll just snap right off on that line and that's what you start with for your first full row so you start with the full row on top then you your second one you cut off right there so you cut off right on the ring gutter that's that's the next six uh six inches so they're each of these tabs are 12 inches roughly so you cut that one off then you go back here and you cut it off right there that's your third row you cut it off right there that's your fourth row and you never want to go with less than a six inch piece so you never cut off a little six inch piece like that and start with that so the minimum size that you're gonna start with is one full tap so once you do that it'll allow you to start laying out your shingles and you'll just kind of see this staggered pattern like so as you're working your way along the roof and it makes it really easy to you know just keep sending your shingles to the right and not a big deal with uh with that and once you get to the end you just cut them all off flush on the end save your little end pieces because you can use those possibly as ridge caps and they might flip-flop and fit on the other side of the roof that's pretty much it so you just keep working that pattern all the way up always making sure that you never overlap and you know you should have a line there and your next row should be there and then it's all there solid all the way down uh so that's how you do your roof and then once you get to the ridge caps you just use your shingles to cut those i'll show you how to do that in a minute all right okay i'm making my ridge cap pieces here so the ridge caps as i mentioned before are just used with your scrap shingles or full shingles it's just one uh 12 inch length that just kind of loops over the ridge of the roof there and to make those you just get all your scraps and you just score down so you come into this that rain slot right there which is right here you just kind of score in come down here and score in and you just break these guys off like so break that one off break this one off and then that's what the back side of the ridge cap looks like so you have your full 12 inch piece right there and it's kind of tapered down at the corners you don't have to there's no science behind this scoring you can just kind of score and take with those in reason why you taper those is when you start laying these guys up like so and like so you maintain your five inch reveal which is the same as all your shingles so you're trying to go along your red stripe like this right same with your nails and nailing all the way but when you taper those edges in it'll just help those it helps them lay over more flat you don't have all these big bulky edges along the edge you just have a nice a nice finished edge so that's why we kind of taper those down so you make a whole ton of these then you take them all up in your roof and just uh sort of staple them across so i'll show you that once i have that process underway okay the roof is all the way to the ridge so you can see i've got my shingle underneath here curled over the top and this one here curls over the top and the little roof caps we made start on top so you get a roof cap and all you have to do is just kind of make sure that you know you have a glue edge here and a glue edge here because your roof caps gonna wrap like that so they can get glued down on both sides you just start at one end make sure you maintain a similar size i don't have five inches on each side but i don't care and then you just work your way back all the way to the end so just piece by piece by piece so i'll get going and show you what that looks like in a second all right so on this little last piece here when you get all the way to the end you'll of course have a little end piece so what we did is on our last piece i just cut back the edge a little bit to reveal the tar here and the tar on the other side and you just cut one little shingle like so and then this is your last five inch piece it'll sit just like that and you're going to have to use tar always but i'm just going to tack on this top side so i'll put a nail there and i'll put a nail there and on the bottom and you'll come back with some tar glue and just go over the top of those two last nails the only other thing to mention on here is that you want to face your ridge cap the opposite way your your wind flows so in my case wind usually blows this direction kind of blows everywhere here it blows this way so you want your ridge caps right to all curl like this so the wind blows over the top of them like this and it doesn't catch underneath your edge here and we're done so that's the entire roof looks pretty good happy with the way it came out okay quick update on how i'm building my doors here so i've got a 70 71 inch span from left to right and it's 70 i think seven from top to bottom uh like so so i'm gonna have some double doors built in here they're gonna you know open out and open out so this is how i'm kind of doing those uh so if we i'm saving a half inch on each side of my doors for hanging them so let's say each door is gonna be 35 inches wide so this is how i built it that is a couple two by fours framed in there like this so from here to here would be 35 inches same thing on this door just flipped upside down but you can see how i did that i just did some pocket hole screws right here on the bottom side you can't see them so i pocket hold each of those four corners and then just screw down that sheet and this is what it looks like flipped over so instead of having each door 35 inches exactly i'm doing one door 36 inches and one door 34 inches that's going to give me an inch overlap in the middle so that i can cut this bottom this facing it's the same siding as this is just upside down i can cut this facing an inch wide on my short door and an inch short on my long door that way they're going to overlap in the middle and they'll have something to butt up against to when the two doors are closed so the seam in other words the seam is going to be right exactly at 35 inches so it'll look like the two doors are equal widths but really in reality one's going to be 34 and one's going to be 36. i know that doesn't really make sense right now but once i get this cut out and hung i'll be able to show you exactly how that works all right i'm getting ready to hang my doors so what i did is i fastened on my front panels here you can see how that there's my overlap there where the one door is gonna get on the other door and what i did is i actually just got a couple of blocks here this is the same trim block um that i used here and i just laid down a couple of those and then i set my doors up in and then pushed him against the wall and then snapped the line all the way along the outside edges uh and then i just set my little handheld skill size skill saw so its blade depth was the same width as one of these sheets so i didn't cut into my two by four here and then just buzzed along my snap line to get uh to cut out the exact perfect width of my two doors on my opening there so now they'll they'll fit into there so that's how i i did that you could cut that out ahead of time easy enough as well but i just decided to kind of build the doors and push them up so i can get them exactly where i wanted as i wasn't exactly sure how i wanted to do that part when i was building my opening so uh on the bottom here you can see i actually originally took some sheets and i filled these all the way across but i changed my mind just barely so i took those couple of little filler pieces off and i've decided just to extend my door down so you can see that my door the facing here the siding extends down so i just snapped a line along the bottom when i had them sitting up there and then just cut off those pieces there so that my bottom of my door will perfectly cover that when it's closed as well so that's how i decided to do that so it'll all fit in there uh snug so now i'm gonna hang the doors so the same thing i'm gonna leave those blocks there and i'm gonna set the doors uh these two by fours right they're built down here they're gonna that's the top end actually but they'll sit right on top of those blocks i'll line them all up and then put on my trim and hinges on the outside edge and show you kind of how all that looks works the trim up on the two doors and i'm just got them blocked in place like this hold themselves in right now because i don't have the uh i bought the wrong hardware well i didn't buy the wrong hardware i'm gonna i'm gonna change out my hinges instead of the long triangle pointy ones over like this i'm just gonna buy the standard hinges uh but that's how that looks so you have to have the trim on before we put the hinges on because the hinges go right here and right here on the outside of the trim so that's coming up next so in the meantime i'm going to flash these windows and then hang these two windows i got so i just got this little tape here i bought it's just this dewpoint it's this waterproof sort of tape i'm going to use so if rain ever you know rains down i don't want rain to get between here and here so i'm just going to take a strip of tape and just flash this around like that up all the way around this door opening here or this window opening and then i'll set the window in and that's going to be good enough for me uh for right now so that's what i'm going to do i'll show you what it looks like when i have that taped up all right the windows are finally in here so i just want to show you what i did i put that little flashing tape on the inside there's actually a better flashing tape that's that's better than this it's silver and it kind of molds a little bit better uh so i'd recommend getting that i went to the store when i went store to get the guy anyway i couldn't get any help i couldn't find any and it was kind of a joke so i just bought this so yay home depot uh anyway what you want to do is flash the inside of the window put the window on you don't need to redo the sides i just i just put one more strip on the sides here nothing on the bottom but you do want to do a strip on the top so once you have your windows set then you do one more flashing strip on the top because that'll help any moisture drain down out on top of the window instead of behind it so you do need a behind the window you need a flash at least this way and then in front of the window you need to flash on top there so that's how you do those windows also pay attention i hadn't realized that when i hung this door initially these little uh these little leech marks right here so there's a little tab on your window you can see one right there and one right there cut out of the little uh plastic there those are weep marks um they let water drain out so if water ever seeps down from a rain into the window into this channel here it'll roll over and then seep out here eventually so you definitely want those on the bottom when i initially put those in i accidentally had those on top so i had to unscrew it pop it out and flip it around so i'm just gonna put my trim around this window and show you when that's done uh also in this video i'm gonna show you the doors are finished i've got my second window over here also hung in there as well and taped up and flashed on top so my doors are now finally in place i've got my three hinges so i just bought this little three pack of hinges at the hardware store i'm actually missing i ran out of three inch screws so i need to finish this side off um but there's my hinges so if you remember inside of this door panel there's you know there's a two by four that goes across like that so i try to i tried to put my hinge where that two by four went here then same thing the bottom you'll notice it's up a little bit from the so same thing down here at the bottom i place that hinge up a little bit because there's that two by four rail from around my door that goes like that so i extended my door down you can see here when i open this uh you know i extended that bottom piece all the way so i made my hinge i made sure my hitch hit the bottom of the door there so that's what it looks like when it's open i went and painted this back here cause i just had some extra paint so you can now see what that you know that's why we built in that extra inch on this side so it would overlap there and give it a little bit nicer uh finish when it was closed and then same thing on the top because that hooks in right to that top edge right there then you remember this side over here has that extra inch that overlaps on this door so you know same inch there sandwich there so it works really nice so uh these doors swing open i can swing them both open nice and wide and this one you just close up the last thing i have to do here i haven't finished texting on those screws but i'll come on the inside and fasten one of those little just uh things that you can screw that go down to the floor here so i can lock that in the floor there and then lock it up into the header here so this door you know will remain immobile and you'll just be able to open and close this door unless you need to get something big out of course then you can unhook those little latches and open both doors so as far as the fastener the one i went for just i just bought these two little handles uh in black and the fastener i just got one of these guys um that just hooks on both sides of the door latches like that and then i can throw a little padlock or something if i want down there to lock it up the also nice thing about this is that it hides the screws when it's closed so somebody couldn't come unscrew those screws and just pop off your doors now you still have that problem over here of course they could always unscrew the hinges excuse me i just got done sawing aboard and i'm allergic to sawdust so it makes me sneeze uh so anyway they could always unscrew your hinges so if you really want to get paranoid about it i'm not all that worried but uh you would just screw all the way through to the back side of the door and then bolt uh on just one you really only need to go on one so on one of these holes just bolt on this side bolt i would do one on the top two bolts one on the bottom two bolts on each door that way even if they could unscrew you know the front side they could never get the back of the bolt off they couldn't pop your doors off if you're worried about safety if someone's really gonna go to that much length try to steal stuff out of your shed they're probably just going to cut the bowl break the glass out of the window so of course i'm not worried about it but if you didn't want to prevent that that's what you would do because the hinges are on the outside of the doors here instead of the inside uh anyway that's pretty much it the last little pieces i have to do are on the end here of the shed i've got to install the vent up at the top so that it vents out the hot air so i've got to cut out right a little square up here install that little teeny tiny vent i've got i'm going to do that on both ends this end and the other end of the shed so i can get some cross ventilation up there i'm probably not going to video that so i'm not that interesting you just take up your little vents trace them out that's what they look like right just little vents they have a little screen on the back so that bigger things can't climb in there take that up trace it out and just cut a little piece out of your siding like everything else and screw that guy in so i've got to place one of these on each end and then finish up my trim so i've got a trim around the windows put my header trim across there and then i'm pretty much done just a few little touch-up things i'll build some shelves or whatnot on the inside but i'm not going to show all that mostly it was just to showcase the the build of the shed kind of document it mostly for my sake because i kind of went on and made things up and made some mistakes and whatnot but it was a fun project i'll show you what the inside looks like uh so there's the inside of the shed i'll probably end up building maybe the big shelf up here to kind of have a two or three foot shelf and some side storage and whatnot there's all my tools and junk but that's what it ended up so it's 12 by 16. i think it's 100 and ended up being 192 square feet which for my area you can go up to 200 square feet for a shed without a building permit so it's kind of nice you just have to worry about your setbacks so i just decided to make it fairly large so i could enjoy it and store some space out here store some stuff in the space so hope you've enjoyed this little sort of build video with me and uh maybe i'll post in a little update once i get some of that interior stuff done on the shed my least favorite thing painting i hated the painting especially the trim so painting the outside wasn't that bad because i actually do have a little paint sprayer that was loaned to me but painting the trim was my least favorite part uh shingling the roof was kind of a pain but i actually enjoyed it because i've never fully shingled a roof and i really like how the roof turned out so i i enjoyed that part um my favorite part was probably the uh i don't know probably the roof actually no probably the doors i'm really happy with the way the doors turned out so they're they're probably my favorite piece of it building this little door so anyway hope you enjoyed it see you later all right likely the final video here so just want to show you how i did my cup of shelving in here so i bought myself a little sort of workbench underneath here that i'll sort of work on that's about 36 inches from the ground it's pretty good height for a work area and then some shelves over here so for this top one i just got a two by six that spans my entire 12 foot this is a 12 foot 2x6 and then i just nailed the block in right to the stud there measured five down five inches down and nailed that in then the same thing over on this side right just nailed the little block right into the stud so my two by six could sit right in there and then i just ripped down a piece of um this osb so i can have a nice sort of not necessarily a attic but you see the idea here big storage area up here on top i'm going to cut this little piece right here i've got two shelves down here that are about 20 inches each that we're going to go right here in here so i just wanted to show you how i did these shelves so i just cut a bunch of two by fours and i get it 20 inches just whatever length makes you happy just tack those right into your stud and then you just cut another little brace piece and you just 45 degree that angle 45 degree that angle and then just brace that up into there so that's how i tagged all those on there they're super sturdy you can pretty much hang on those and sit on those so three or four across every every other stud is about where i put one and that gives me uh some room to build some shelves with some bigger storage area up top i may end up doing the same thing over here i might end up putting maybe even two uh maybe a two by six going here and a two by six going here so i can do a full four foot sheet up there all the way across have another attic space to store stuff up above if i want to but that's how i did my little shelves on the sides and same thing over here with my little workbench as well so that's how it's turned out a little bit later and i'll start filling it full of all my junk all right thanks

Channel: Do It Wrong Yourself

Views: 2,537,209

Keywords: shed, build, how to, yourself, build a shed, 12 x 16 shed, how to build a shed

Id: LaN1hnR7pSk

Length: 97min 19sec (5839 seconds)

Published: Tue Aug 21 2018