How to build an Arrow shed by yourself in one day

hi folks I just got my second arrow 10 by 12 metal shed been raining it's had about an inch of rain finally stopped this is the first shed built last week made all the appropriate mistakes on that one so here's the second one I'd like to share some tips and tricks on making this a better experience and ending up with a better shed so here is my pad framed with pressure treated two by eights and I used seven pier blocks I used three down each side and I found from the first shed that having pier block under the doorway it'll keep your doorway from sagging when you load your shed up with lots of heavy stuff on the first one I went to a lot of effort to dig the uphill side down to keep the ramp from being so steep and high I found that screwing off the bottom edge of the sheeting was very difficult with the dirt in the way so at this time I set the whole thing higher I'm just gonna have to deal with the ramp when it's all done also on this floor I put the flashing down first I had to sneak it under the walls on the last one and also I got the dimensions dialed in the width is 120 inches 10 feet but the length needs to be a hundred and forty-two inches what 2 inches shy of 12 feet because the shed being metric dimensions ended up leaving about an inch of deck forward and back that it's just gonna be a rain catcher so this is 3/4 inch OSB like plywood and it's screwed off real thoroughly the tongue-and-groove style OS be nice and solid to jump on and it is so important to get this floor dead flat so that your holes line up there is a hole for every screw in these sheds you don't want to have to go looking for it you don't want to have to shim the base plate of your walls up while you're building in order to get those holes to line up okay I've got the box open now and it's nice undamaged box I cut it on the sides of the said to and page it open doesn't appear to be any damage inside which is nice so first thing I'm going to do is go in here and identify all the floor frame pieces and throw those out they're just gonna be in the way that is the channel with this profile and that's a good third of the weight now maybe a quarter of the weight so we can get those out of the way right away because we've got a nice wood floor we don't need the floor frame now this is probably the most important part of this video and you get box open you're gonna find this bag containing the instructions in multiple languages they're fairly thorough didn't find any major mistakes in there and here is the floor assembly manual you can go ahead and throw that away I can't imagine anyone would want to use flimsy metal for the floor you want to either a concrete slab or a wood foundation when you get into this bag you're gonna find a second bag containing their screws and you're gonna have a whole bunch of these machine screws these are used for holding together the beams going together wall panels holding the roof on and they are frustratingly short each one of these is you're going to have to mash it through the extrusions and struggle and fight to get a nut onto them and that's why part way through the first shed I got myself some 832 number 8:32 thread screws and these guys are considerably longer than the stock screws to make it a lot easier to get things started for some things where you're really frustrating we fighting the things getting together especially the roof panels we've got some inch and a quarter so I've got 100 3/4 and 101 and a quarters and these Phillips heads you're not going to need to put a lot of torque on them typically you're just going to get things just beyond finger tight and that's going to be fine for these screws now also you're gonna find a bag about 300 very short sheet metal screws and these are Phillips and trying to keep a Phillips screw aligned with the hole even with a magnetic bit while you get them started is gonna make you nuts so I went ahead and bought and again I learned this half way through my first shed I bought a couple hundred number ten by three dates and these are zinc we have a hex head on them and you can drive these with a magnetic nut driver on an impact keep them nice and straight quite easily those will work for general purpose really well that 3/8 long which is a little bit longer than the ones that come with in addition to those I got some half inches for no more difficult starts you can fish around for the second hole a little easier if you got a longer screw now anywhere you're using these screws through the exterior of the building you want to use these plastic washers that come with it and they're not - don't put up too much of a fight and we break one off they they stay fairly well on the screws while you're getting them started and these have a softer formulation then the screws I've seen sheet metal screws with the plastic built onto them and they will mash and fill the gaps especially in the roof panels quite well so that'll make your job much easier than fighting Phillips head screws that are too short well worth it so again 200 of the number-10 by 3/8 slotted hex washer screws in Zink hundred of the 832 one in a quarters and a hundred of a thirty two 3/4 and I got a couple hundred of these number 832 Zink nuts as well that'll make things a lot easier I want to add that in with these screws that you're going to avoid using because they're just a terrible hassle you will find hidden some acorn nuts for the door handles and a set of these black screws that go with the door glides you're going to want to keep those together for near the end of the project for hanging and adjusting your doors so fish those out of those screws and then put them in a drawer and forget about them forever getting ready to do step one from the plans was raining yesterday so went ahead and put the plastic washers on all 300 of the sheet metal screws don't particularly need them on all steps but nearly all it just makes it a lot easier to have them on already so you're not fumbling with them the other way to keep from fumbling with your screws is to have a magnetic holder on your drill or impact I'm using the DeWalt 20 volt impact driver rather than a drill there's got to be light with your touch so you don't strip the screws as you put them in and if you are sure that your foundation is Square and level there's no need to put any more screws in this base frame that are necessary to maintain your spacing so that the holes line up again here I've gone ahead and taken out all the floor framing pieces as I'm not using those he probably won't either they're just a bunch of flimsy metal for the floor to maintain spacing you don't need that if you've got a good base I'm going ahead and using the included machine screws and nuts for joining the base frame pieces together because they're nicely short and that actually helps in this case and for that you're going to need a eleven thirty Seconds driver you'll use a 5/16 driver for the number-10 screws we'll use for the rest of the project now we got these floor frames all assembled and secured down the instructions tell us to assemble the beams and the wall frames but why in the world would you want those in the way while you're putting up the walls we're gonna skip right to step 6 which is the corners or the hardest parts of the project really easy time to screw up your metal and bend it so when I figured out here is you can take a couple of year floor frames that we're not going to use and just screw them to the corner using your deck screws and that's your second man there holding up your corner frames let me start your corners use a c-clamp or a spring clamp or some vice grips hold the top together while you get things together if you go to use the included screws to hold these panels together mid span you are gonna drive yourself nuts they're so short you're not going to be able to push them through get a nut on the back side so go ahead and use your three quarter 8:32 screws push them on through yeah you want to have to fight it all that screws gonna be sticking out the other side ready for a nut I promise you that every hole in this kit is in the right place so if you look through and don't see the whole year after the hole is not in the wrong place you are in the wrong place put away that drill bit will just get you more trouble [Music] I found it can be helpful to lean something heavy against the inside all you get the bottom edge of your corner started I don't care who we are some of your panels got a little damaged and handling and delivery storage yeah hand picked those for the back now that your four corners are up you can do your top rails the two short ones do your 10-foot side two long ones do your 12-foot side I guess if it's ten by ten shed your building they're all the same length screw these together no need to go crazy with the screws there's four screw holes two screws will do fine you're just trying to maintain spacing you're not going for brute strength I find that it's easiest on these upper frames to just start one end by reaching over be about impossible with those Phillips screws that they include with it with a magnetic holder and the hex head screws it's pretty easy to reach over and put the screw through if you're not tall enough to reach over it's not a little stuff still handy that you can kick around you got the door header in you're gonna notice I'm skipping a lot of steps now because this is not intended to be a substitute for the instructions it just tips and tricks to make things go easier it is easier to put these door glides in at this stage then to get them in later but it's not a big deal to put them in later now for your mid wall frames again you'll notice two short ones so on the back wall on a 10 by 12 on a 10 by 10 they're all the same there's a whole bunch of holes there's four six eight holes no need to put eight screws in there I'd be the strongest part of the shed there's really no point just put screws in opposite corners that's to hold your spacing now these mid wall frames are probably where you're gonna start thinking there's no way you can do this alone but you can and this is where these good screws the magnetic holder come into place you're gonna count holes from the corner out and this hole is where this screw goes so I'm just gonna hold those two together and that'll get me started so I got that one screw where it goes I've got the right distance to the corner and the rest of the beams hear it so I can just go and put one on the other side and then go back and forth and just fill them all in back from lunch there's the old shed I built a couple weeks ago new ones coming together corners doorframe some of the intermediate framing and again in the corners this mid wall frame there's room for four screws why look at the rest of the structure too is plenty so the first time through I beat myself looking for the mid wall frames either side of the front door they're these flimsy little things they're stuck with two pieces of tape to some brown trim yeah there's no way to connect them at the corners to the big ones this is a good time when you've got the all the framing in all the four corners just fill in every hole you can just get every fastener in that you can saves you a lot of trouble later helps get things squared up now when you go to put these additional wall panels in that's another time you're gonna think wow I sure wish I had some help awful tough to do this alone well this is where your floor frame members can come in handy again just go ahead and screw them in just above the lip on the bottom of the frame where you can still get out the screws and just go ahead and temporarily screw that to your base with a PC or floor framing screwed in keeping your panel from sliding over the edge and we have a magnetic bit holder you can go ahead and start these panels one-handed no helper you can get yourself video while you're doing it easy is that I can get both these panels in back here I'm just starting them in that mid wall frame and I can button up the bottom edge and the top as I finish each panel just to keep everything straight we hit the back wall done go overhead and come around to the sides and screw your floor frame on just above the edge go all the way but we'll just move it down as we need to and we can set these side panels when you're finishing off the middle of the back wall you're gonna be forced to use machine screws and nuts again don't beat yourself up using the short ones they give you is the three quarter inch eight thirty twos okay all the walls are in it's time to put on the roof and I am three hours into this project and it's halfway done all thanks to having the right screws right tools nice flat square foundation and using a couple of pieces of our unused floor frame to hold things together for us no helper required these Gables are a little ridiculous but anyway these little guys here we're gonna go in with your sheet metal screws and then there's this dangling angle piece here that's needed for the center beam don't kill yourself with the short screws these your long winds your long a32 is your 3/4 or your inch into quarters even nothing's gonna get hung up on them now we have the gables in place it's time to begin the nonsense that is the beams aren't you glad I didn't build these first like they suggest and have to step over them over and over again anyway go ahead and throw these together with as few fasteners as possible to get them in place because otherwise you're going to be pulling screws back out especially at the ends well that took about a minute and a half I just put one screw in the middle and screw one screw in each end to get it up in place where I could put it all together begin long screws key a little short with the give a you just fight with them these mid span beams are a good opportunity to use up some of the short screws given to you with the kit they're really easy to put together these clips for the mid span beam's are slotted differently side to side leave those loose till the very end because you're gonna need to hit these little holes with the roofing and I'll need to cheat it back and forth to get those to fit right okay the three beams are in Gables are loosely together I'll tighten it all up as I get the Gables screws going in from the roofing okay doing the roof this is really important the roof panels must have the holes correspond with the holes in the gable so what you're gonna need for your first two roof panels is the first one and the last one in the stack the rest are standard ones in-between that don't have those holes if you use those up too early or don't use these you will not be able to attach the roof to the Gables and you will have leak holes to fill also you need to put your Ridge on as you go there will not be an opportunity to put it on later if you don't put it on it will leak right down the middle fill every hole as you go you can do the bottom edges later but the middles and then up here at the ridge fill every hole as you go you know by now how thin this metal is and you are not getting back up here if you forget something when you go to put on the ridge that's going to use the screw holes at the joints and that's where you're going to want to use those inch and a quarter screws that I made you buy because there'll be plenty hanging down there that you can reach up and tighten the nut from inside all holding the threads with needlenose pliers and when you're mid span you'd be crazy to think you could do this with the included screws you need these in chin quarters they'd even like to be a little bit longer to do this one-handed so you're gonna put around an inch and a quarter go through ridges the joint roofing and then down into the shed space sorry about that rotten camerawork does that balance the lean way over and then these guys mid span just drop in little three-quarter inch or so you're not scratching your head with the long screw on the inside I'm gonna wash your on with one hand over that one down in both sides and you'll be able to find that inside this third and last piece of Ridge makes things kind of weird you want to put the inch and a quarter screws through the two ridges and the roofing and you're gonna want to leave those pretty loose I'm gonna go inside and get nuts on them but I'm gonna do it very loosely cuz I want to be able to lift that reg up to get the other roofing underneath it yeah we've arrived at the second the last piece of roofing you want to leave the last piece for whatever spot is easiest to ladder from because you were gonna be doing this from the outside loitering over the side so I'm gonna do everything I can from up here on this piece and then I'll be hopping down to finish so I didn't tape my Gables taping Gables seems kind of pointless when you've got all these gaping gaps everywhere else but I did give it everything else put in them there's some snap-on safety edge to put on this so you don't cut yourself open on it but not just careful I'll have the last piece of roofing on it soon and it won't be an issue here goes the ridge of the last piece I'm gonna have to lift it up to get the last of the screws in it is the last piece and it is a wonderful opportunity to ruin the front of your shed so you're gonna want to block between your ladder in the front right on that gable so you got some strength to lean against so you don't dent things up and we're just gonna button everything up from the ladder now we're buttoning up the edges of the roof from a stepladder you're gonna want to do these lap joints first before you do the screws either side because they'll tend to either push or pull and help line the holes up better okay that's it for the roof and Gables you'll notice I didn't put the metal edging on the reason I didn't do that is because I'm already one day and getting pine needles on the roof I want them to be able to clear off not get stuck in that chintzy edging well I was a good time to come in and tighten up your Gables and your beam ends and these inch and a quarter screws coming down through your ridges through your lap joints on the top of the roofing you can just grab a hold with your needle nose pliers pull down and get the nut started then grab down at the bottom of the needle nose pliers give a good pull and tighten these nuts up against the sheet metal build your doors next to each other makes things so much easier instructions aren't real clear this member is at an angle you can go up or down on the door handles to catch a screw doesn't matter make it look a lot more clever if they match though when you're hanging your doors you're gonna use the upper set of holes on the edge toward the center and the lowest set of holes on this side the headers sags at the way of the roof on it and that's the only way you're going to get the doors to close straight well as well start it that way instead of having to adjust Utley and there it is finished in eight hours of work over two days I had to knock off and do some things yesterday took me about four hours to build the base and goes look easier if you have a good square flat base to build it on every screw hole for the first the last align up now because I built on a side hill I ended up up in the air a bit and my 88 year old dad is gonna be using this shed so putting in a ramp making it three feet wide the door is four feet but you don't need a ramp that big to dolly things in and out of it and when I finish something look like this I use two 20 footers that gave me three eight foot supports for the ramp itself and a handrail to spare after my blocking I use a couple of 2x4 has already had four the posts you

Channel: James Guy Photography

Views: 107,696

Keywords: arrow sheds, arrow shed, 10 x 12 arrow shed, 10 x 10 arrow shed, home depot shed, metal shed, how to build a metal shed, tips and tricks, arrow shed tips and tricks, arrow shed how to, home depot shed build

Id: 8193O2lJRec

Length: 31min 25sec (1885 seconds)

Published: Mon Jan 20 2020