New Yankee Workshop - S07E10 - Gazebo

hi I'm Norma Avram welcome to the new Yankee Workshop today we're gonna build a gazebo you know a garden structure sometimes they were called summer houses I've seen them screened-in and completely open I've seen them built very small and sometimes really big mostly in the form of an octagon I'll show you where we got the idea for ours next right here on the new Yankee Workshop [Music] once again we return to the Concord Museum you may recall that they have a wonderful collection of artifacts from the colonial period today we're here to see their classic Victorian style gazebo which is situated at the corner of the line next to the road turns out that this was built by an old friend of ours Jack Rogers several years ago let's look at some of the features it's supported by some stones it's close to the ground and the decking is a southern yellow pine laid in the eight segments of the Octagon the post lead up to some collar ties which keep the gazebo from spreading apart on top of the collar ties there are curved rafters which are a lamination of wood strips and on top of that there's some four inch wide roof sheathing what I really like about this gazebo is the way that the roof sweeps up to that wooden finial at the top now Jack covered the roof with red cedar shingles and then he capped all the ridges with red cedar shingles each opening has a nice decorative element and there's a simple railing to close it in now this is a little large for where we'd like to place our gazebo but there are plenty of ideas here I found a place for our gazebo in the woods out behind the shop where I had a clearing that was about 10 feet in diameter it's going to be a great place to come out to on a summer evening because we're going to screen ours in in fact there's gonna be a screen door right here leading out through the garden the first thing I did was the layout I set a series of strings first this one then using a framing square 90 degrees for this one then i bisected each angle the result are strings that are 45 degrees to each other then I measured from a center stake and put a little mark on the line which defines the outer point of the frame so that I could set the saw concrete blocks I removed the bark mulch and just made sure that the soil underneath was compacted then I leveled each block to one another now if you like to build one of these gazebos a measure drawing is available and you'll hear more about that before the program ends now to get started we want to set the perimeter of the floor frame these pieces are two by six now each piece is three foot six and 5/8 inches long on the outside and cut at a twenty two and a half degree angle and I'll fasten them with some screws now you'll notice that I'm using two by six pressure-treated lumber for the floor frame which means it should last for many years the gazebo that we looked at earlier had the floor decking system installed in segments triangles and the problem with that is is that there are a lot of joints along each edge and in time the boards will curl making it difficult to slide the furniture around and you could even trip on them so I've designed a much simpler floor system my joists will run in this direction 16 inches on center the flooring will run perpendicular giving me fewer joints well now I'm ready to check for squareness I want to measure from that corner to this corner nine foot three and a half and I want to check the opposite diagonal nine foot three and three eighths so I want to bring it this way just a little bit seven sixteenths good well now a word about power tools safety be sure to read understand and follow all the safety rules that come with your power tools knowing how to use your power tools properly will greatly reduce the risk of personal injury and remember this there is no more important safety rule than to wear these safety glasses I cut the ends of these joists at 45 degrees to fit the perimeter now for the post there are eight of them and they go with the intersections of the perimeter they have all kinds of notches and bevels to fit the floor frame and the roof I made them in the shop for the post I bought pressure-treated four by sixes and the first thing I want to do is bevel the narrow edges to do that I'm going to use my 12 inch radial arm saw which allows me to make it in one pass otherwise I'd have to use my table saw and set it up for two passes [Music] [Music] now the jointer does a nice job smoothing up the edges from the saw cut now to the radial arm to make the notches I've installed my stacked dado head cutter in the radial arm and I've screwed two wedges to the table and they're actually made from scraps that were cut off the post this way the post is positioned so that the notch will be 90 degrees to the side the last notch to make on each post is up at the top it's an inch and a half wide and it will receive the collar ties and I can't cut that with the dado head cutter so I'm going to use a circular saw make a series of passes through and then chisel out the rest [Applause] [Music] my collar ties are two-by-fours and I've laid out a notch that I need one on each end where they fit over the tops of the post [Music] now this knotch and one like it and another caller ty will give me a half lap joint where they intersect the collar ty extends beyond the post and each end is cut at an angle to receive some trim so I've tipped my radial arm saw it at 22 and a half degrees and swung the arm around 233 degrees now I'm going to swing the radial arm to 33 degrees on the other side of 0 and finish the cut to secure the post to the frame I'm using two carriage bolts one on each side of the joint now with all the post installed it's time to put in some blocking and fillers to catch all the decking now the 2x4 is that wrap the top are the same length as the two by sixes that wrap the perimeter of the floor and the angle on the end is twenty-two and a half degrees okay now it's time for the collar ties and that'll really tie the top together and make it nice and stiff now the remaining collar ties which have to be cut where they intersect in the middle I'm cutting right out here on the job site with my sliding compound miter box all right well that should do it now let's get started putting on the decking now using my circular saw in my jigsaw I'm able to notch these pieces of five quarter by six decking so that they fit in between the post now I want to cut the end at 22 and a half degrees where it meets the adjacent piece to secure the decking I'm using 8 penny stainless steel ring shank nails they won't stain the wood or rust now for the field I'm using more of the five quarter by six decking carefully fitting it between the perimeter now I started at the center and I'm gonna work my way to each edge I will butt them up tightly because they'll shrink a little bit it's gonna take a little while but it looks the amount of light I got left I won't be able to finish it tonight there you are since I saw you last I completed laying the field of the deck carefully fitting the board's around the post and the perimeter pieces then I lay down a piece of plywood to protect the floor while I continue building the gazebo this 2x4 post is temporary it'll help support the ceiling joist which I'm going to use as a scaffolding to frame the roof I also took some time to put some braces and spring boards to hold all the posts plumb while I frame the roof now I've already installed four of the roof rafters and you start to see the shape it's going to be kind of neat the rafters are actually made up of two pieces of 3/4 inch plywood laminated together they have a slight curve that leads up to a king post both elements I made back at the shop I start out forming the rafters by laying them out on some 3/4 inch plywood then I rough cut them with the jigsaw with them fastened together in pairs I'll perfect the cut at the bandsaw and I'm going to secure the pieces together using some construction adhesive next I want to secure the pieces together with some inch and a quarter galvanized screws all together we'll need eight of these the next element of the roof framing system is the king post it's the piece that goes at the top where all the rafters meet I start out with a piece of stock about ten and a half inches long and 500 eighth inches square I'm knocking off the corners at a 45 degree angle so that I get eight equal sides [Music] and that's how those elements were made now when it comes to fastening the rafters to the top of the collar tie there's no effective way to get nails in there so I'm going to use these half-inch plywood gussets which bridge between the collar tie and the rafter and I do that on both sides of each rafter now where the rafters meet the kingpost toe nailing them in with some eight penny stainless steel nails with four opposing rafters installed I'll infill with the remaining four here I've applied some rough 4-inch spruce boards on the roof leaving a 3/4 inch space between them this is known as skip sheathing and it'll allow the wood shingles that I'm gonna put on next to breathe now this cleat right here along the rafter will just give me a guide to mark where I want to cut the boards off at the center of each rafter now I've set my saw at about a 15 degree angle now this is where a compound miter box comes in handy I'm taking boards and making an 18 degree cut across the face and back cutting it at 15 degrees so that it'll fit up against the cut that I made with the circular saw I've left them a little long I'll go up the roof trim it and then repeat the process all the way around thirty-five and a half [Music] each course gets shorter by three inches how's it look maybe tomorrow we can start shingling it of course before I can apply any roof shingles I have to do the trim around the eave and it's made up of two pieces the first piece I want to install is the soffit which I just trimmed the front edge of the soffit is beveled at 30 degrees and it's cut across the face at 22 and 1/2 degrees the board's sit underneath the extensions of the collar ties and get nailed in place with some sixpenny stainless steel nails the next board to apply is the fascia board it's a piece of 1 by 8 that I've ripped down to 6 and a quarter inches the tricky cut to make is where the boyd's meet at the corner but it's easy at the compound miter box there are two angle settings I have to make at the miter box first the bevel which is going to be a little over 20 degrees and then the cut across the face which is going to be a little over 11 and 1/2 degrees [Music] okay now the length of this piece has to be measured across the top edge long point to long point and it's about 50 and a half inches let's try it I'd say that's just about perfect well like the gazebo that we saw earlier I am going to use red cedar shingles on the roof you may recall that the hips of that gazebo were capped with shingles and that's okay on a large roof but because our gazebo is smaller I'm afraid that that cap will overpower the scale of the roof so I'm just going to weave or braid the corners and that's a job that takes patience I got started by installing these temporary half-inch pieces of plywood on the fascia boards and that will act as a guide for the overhang of the shingles first thing I want to do is slide a shingle over to the corner and put a pencil mark along the hip and trim it now that's a little stronger than I'm gonna need I'll plane it to fit here's where the cleat comes in holding the shingle flush to the cleat install a couple nails now using a block plane I want to trim the shingle so that it's flush to this roof surface okay that's good now we'll repeat the operation coming from this roof plane [Music] [Applause] onto the cleat and two more nails okay now you can see where the patience comes in you can't rush this job now this is the easy part in filling between the two hips as long as I remember to leave about 1/8 to 1/4 of an inch gap to allow for the expansion of the shingles now we have to repeat the process again going over this course being sure to stagger the joints now to double up the start of course I start at the hip doubling the shingle that I put on the hip last now to make it look right and be sure that no water runs under the shingles I want to slide this course down an additional eighth of an inch now here's the seam of the starter course and here's the bevel now I want to plane this shingle flush to this roof plane okay now we'll cover this with a shingle okay now if you look up at the edge of this joint you can see why it's waterproof okay with that little tip removed you can see here's the top joint so if any water gets in there it's going to land on the shingle beneath and run out because the closest joint is way over here about an inch away okay now that's the first course that's going to show seventeen or eighteen courses more to go times eight means I have a hundred and forty four more of these braids to go and that's going to take some time a couple of days I think now next time we'll finish the trim out here build some screens railings and decoration so until then I'm norm Abram shingling away here at the new Yankee Workshop it took many many hours to complete the wood chingling of the roof because remember every course had to be braided eight times over those hips but I think all the effort was worth it because when you approach a gazebo after all it's the roof that you notice first I've already started setting the trim and the lattice panels let me show you that the first thing I want to do is put a corner board on the outside of each post now if you remember from the first program I beveled the four by six posts so that they would be square to each segment of the octagon now what I want to do is take the scrap piece of material that resulted from making that bevel and fill in the outside I'll hold the thin part of the bevel even with the edge of the post and that will give me a 90 degree corner right here now a word about safety be sure to read understand and follow all the safety rules that come with your power tools knowing how to use your power tools properly will greatly reduce the risk of personal injury and remember this there is no more important safety rule than to wear these safety glasses now the CUDA boards themselves are pieces that have been ripped at a twenty two and a half degree angle so that they'll fit together just like this to fit over the corner now I could kneel them in place as they are but it'd be very difficult to keep the outside edge aligned so what I'm going to do is cut some biscuit slots to help align the two pieces okay now we can put in some biscuits I'm not gonna use any glue these biscuits are really just to align the two boards the nails will actually hold them together okay now I've put a little mark on the decking which is a half inch beyond the post which is the overlap that I want so with that aligned just nail it in place now the nails that I'm using are six penny stainless steel ring shank they'll never rust now this piece of 2x4 that I've notched each end on to fit around the corner Boyd will just become a nailer with some other pieces of trim just secured with screws the next thing I want to do is set the lattice railing panels and they sit on some little blocks okay now I can take the lattice piano and set it from the inside against the corner wood and on top of the blocks then take some shingle tips and just wedge it in place now this piece of pine trim has also been notched on each end and it sits under the 2-bike boy that I installed earlier next a couple fillers on each side of the opening at the top the next thing is the upper lattice panel which has a decorative arch and that gets tacked in place with a couple Brad's okay now I can remove this temporary cleat which is really just necessary to hold the arch until it was installed you're probably wondering how I made this decorative arch and the lattice railing piano here's how it was done the railing panels start out as four pieces of one-inch thick by inch and 3/8 wide cedar and the first thing I want to do is plow a groove down the center to receive the lattice panel and I'll run all four side pieces [Music] okay that takes care of the miters on the frame pieces now the lattice panel because there are seven pianos to make and they're all identical I thought it would be worthwhile to make a jig so I took a piece of scrap particle board and laid out the perimeter here's the bottom here's one side a line across the top and on the other side then I took some scrap pieces of lattice and fastened them to the particle board as spacers for the lattice pieces that run in this direction each piece is cut long enough so that exceeds the layout lines now the lighter pieces are actually a half inch thick and they are the spaces for the lattice that runs perpendicular to the first set okay now with all the pieces in the jig I'm going to secure the overlapping intersections with a brad now I just transfer the line onto the lattice and trim it off good now I thought it would be worthwhile to pre-prime the groove on the frame otherwise it's going to be difficult to paint later now all I have to do is slip the frame parts around the lattice and I'll secure each corner with a screw there will only be six more panels to build to make the decorative arches I returned to the jig that I use to make the railings the arches are a little bit wider and shorter than the railings so I had to establish new lines for the sides and a new line for the bottom I also installed this plywood block with a dollop in in it so that I can use my router to actually trim out the arch I've pre-cut the pieces of lattice a little bit longer than what I need and we'll just set those in place as they place the lattice in the other direction I'm adding a spot of waterproof glue at every intersection and that's because the decorative arch does not have as much support as the railing you might have noticed that I'm holding my brad nailer at an angle when I Drive the brats that's because the smallest Brad for this nailer is five eighths of an inch if I held it straight the Brad's would go through by holding it at an angle they want well now for the router to cut a perfect half circle I've attached this extension base which is a homemade one that I used for a project earlier you can buy these made out of acrylic material from you woodworking catalogs I want to drop the base over the pivot point and I've installed a 3/8 inch spiral cutting bit in the router and because I'm going to be cutting across the endgrain of a lot of these pieces I want to take my time but it works great [Music] well just as with the railings I'm trimming the edges with my small circular saw to finish off the inside of the arch I've ripped a piece of cedar that's a little over a half inch wide and it's 3/16 of an inch thick I've rolled on some waterproof glue I'm gonna try to bend it around the inside of the arch and hope that it doesn't break good now I'll fasten it in place with some Brad's until the glue sets okay now we'll put a little piece of trim right here now this is just a temporary piece that I'm putting across the bottom of the arch this trim wants to make it spread out will remove it when I install it at the gazebo okay there's one six more to go now it took a little time to make the jigs to form these panels but in the end it saves time now the next piece that has to go in is this filler piece that goes from the top of the lower panel up underneath the arch now there's another piece that goes on the inside at the top of the arch now another filler piece down the side of the arch lattice panel and the final filler piece goes on the inside of the railing piano all those fillers give me a uniform surface against which the screen panel will sit well you know our gazebo can also be called a summer house which means people are gonna want to use it during the summertime to keep the bugs out I've come up with a system of screens and I made those in the shop going to the screen shop to have screens made can be expensive but if you know a couple tricks you can make custom screens in your own workshop now I've joined parts of screens together in the past using these corrugated fasteners you drive them across the joint sometimes they go in successfully sometimes they split and they're very difficult to drive if you hit a knot now thou technology has been replaced by biscuits or plate joinery these beechwood biscuits combined with the one part waterproof glues will make a joint that's indestructible now to make the slot for the biscuit you need a biscuit joiner and inside there's a blade as you push the machine forward it cuts a slot the right size for the biscuit the layout is done by just putting a pencil line across the joint where you want the biscuit [Applause] now this little device allows me to place the glue in the biscuit slot I could also paint it in with the brush now we can clamp it together you've seen me do this countless times check for squareness 88 and 9/16 across that diagonal and across this one we have 88 and 3/8 so I got a knock this corner down just a little bit and check it again that's perfect after assembling all seven screen frames and allowing the glue to dry it was such a nice day that I took the frames outside and applied the final coats of paint it's a lot easier to do that first before setting the screen fabric now what I want to do is put the fabric on and to do that I'm going to start by setting the screen frames and to add you notice I need to have two frames at a time to do this now the screen fabric is fiberglass and I found that it's less expensive to buy a hundred-foot roll rather than the individual pieces I really only need about sixty feet but I'll have some spare went around should I need to make a reef here I roll it out to the end of the frame and square it up roll it over the edge and attach it with a few temporary staples all right now I can go down to the other end and with a nice sharp matte knife cut it off a couple inches longer and roll it over this edge and staple it now if you think that's tight here's the trick I'm gonna raise this screen up so that I can take a scrap piece of stock that's about an inch wide and put it in between the two screen frames now if I let the screen back down again it's gonna stretch the fabric so that it's nice and tight get out tight that is now I'm going to staple along the edge about 3/8 of an inch in from the opening every six inches now these staples won't show they're going to be covered with the molding which is the next step okay with the last staple in place I can separate the screens and put the moldings on good okay I started out by cutting all the pieces of molding a little bit longer than what I need because I'm going to miter the corners now this piece of molding was picked up at the lumberyard and it's called screen molding sort of a modified half round to make the miters I'm going to use my lightweight miter box that has a really fine blade that makes a nice clean cut to hold the moldings in place i'm using a brad about three-quarters of an inch long now here at the mid rail i'm using two pieces of molding and no attempt is made to miter it just a butt joint and i'll leave this screen material in the center now here around the perimeter i will trim off the excess fabric okay one down six To Go the screen door is made using the same techniques that I used for the screen frames except that I'm using five quarter stock instead of three quarter stock and I'm using double biscuits at the joints for extra strength okay that's nice and square now I'll set it aside to dry put the finished coats of paint on it and apply the screen fabric the same way I did with the screen panels now before I can install the screens I need to put in one more piece of trim on the inside I've installed a couple pieces of scrap wood at the top on each side against the posts and now I'm gonna piece put this piece of 1 by 10 in and nail it in place the top of each screen slips under the piece of trim that I just installed and I push it up against the lattice and Center it in the opening and it'll be held in place with nothing more than a piece of half-inch quat around which is secured with some 1-inch Brad's well now for the door the door will be in swinging but I have to set some stops up against it which it'll close so there's a piece of five quarter pine that gets set up at the top now on the hinge side of the door I've already mortise some galvanized hinges into the post but I need a piece of trim against which the door will close another piece of five quarter up against the corner Boyd and on the latch side another piece of five quarter all the pieces will be secured with some stainless steel nails now all right that should keep the bugs out now on the outside there's a couple more pieces of trim to complete around the bottom there's a one by six skirt board that's cut a twenty two and a half degrees on each end now to dress up where the skirt board meets the flooring a piece of Scotia molding now just below the soffit I'm installing another 1 by 6 all the way around the gazebo this is known as a frieze boy the angle that I've cut at each intersection is the same as I used on the water table and it sits on top of the corner board the final piece of wood is this one a cornice molding and that's going to dress up the intersection between the frieze board and the soffit [Music] and now for the final touch a finial now I didn't make this in the workshop it was made by a very talented friend and coppersmith Paul spun out in California and it goes right up there all right now this is going to fit right over the top of the shingles and we'll get it plumb and I'm going to secure it with some brass screws and some rubber washers to keep the water out well how does it look pretty good well now that you know how it's done I hope that you'll build one [Music]

Channel: Todd Schoolcraft

Views: 476,282

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Id: BuXgIXikaF4

Length: 47min 30sec (2850 seconds)

Published: Thu Sep 06 2018