Garment Construction: Hoodie(EN)

hello today we will learn how to make a simple hoodie like this first start the close software and then load an avatar in my case i will choose nate and the avatar is loaded into the 3d window as next step i will click on content and load the dxf pattern file that we will use into my 2d window once the pattern is loaded we will arrange the pattern pieces first we have a separate front and back panel it will be placed on the grey shadow of the avatar and the sleeve is between the front and back panel i will place the hood above the other pattern pieces in claw we can make use of a feature called linked editing so after i arrange my pattern pieces i will cut them in half so the idea is to work only with half of the pattern pieces and delete the unnecessary half to do so select the trace tool and right click on and select the command cut so you can see that the pattern pieces is divided into two and one half can be deleted i will now repeat the same process for the front pattern piece and the hood after i have cut them i will delete one of the two halves for each pattern piece and i will also arrange the hood a bit nicer on top of my back panel so in general you can see that i have arranged the front pattern piece based on the avatar shadow then the back at the similar height and the sleeve in between the two pattern pieces once your arrangement is similar to this we can start with the sewing process in order to start the sewing i will select the free sewing tool in the 2d window once selected i will start by sewing the side seams of the sweatshirt together after closing the side seams i will do the same for the sleeve and the shoulders it's important to always respect the sewing direction for the sleeve i have multiple notches and i will always respect the notch and stop according to the pattern marking when approaching the back sleeve just make sure that you stop at the red notch and not at the blue point and after you have done the last seam you have successfully sewn your sleeve lastly we simply have to sew the hood part the hood is connected to two pattern pieces so we will divide the seam start with the back and then do the same for the front to pick up the sewing line and place it from shoulder down to the center front then we finally only have to connect the cuff to our sleeve this part should soon look like you can see here on the picture and in order to do so we first have to transform the baseline into an internal line in order to do so we will select the trace tool and click on the baseline afterwards hit enter and it will change the line color from blue to red and it is now an internal line then let's continue to sew the upper edge to the sleeve with the help of our segment sewing tool now when you switch to the 3d window you can not see the baseline or the internal line in order to make them visible just go to the 3d windows vertical toggle bar and hover over the shirt icon where you have two options to show internal line and show baselines that's always helpful for as a visualization as a next step i will select the fold arrangement tool which allows me to fold my pattern piece on an internal line with the help of the gizmo you can simply move one part upwards now you have a goat overview of which segments should be connected to which segments and avoid confusion of the sewing direction then i go back to my sewing tools and i start from paste on the internal line and i go once downwards from the internal line once upwards and i do the same for both sides now lastly i will connect the top part of the cuff to the bottom part of the cuff and now my cuff parts have been sewn together because the cuff is a two layered pattern piece we will now have to select the seams where it should be flat with the help of the edit sewing tool and change the sewing line type to turned so we have finished to sew the half pattern together if we select everything we now want to make use of the symmetric editing function where we can copy the sewing lines to the second part so for this select all pattern pieces right click on one of the pattern pieces and choose the command line that says symmetric pattern with sewing once you click on it you will get a yellow preview of your pattern pieces you simply place them on the mirror line of the avatar as a next step i will just move the pattern pieces to the right side to have them nicely lined up together and connect the center back and center front seam this seam is only temporarily as i will place a zipper there later on as last step i will only then close the center back of my hood piece with the free sewing tool in this section we will now look into how to arrange pattern pieces around the avatar so we have created the symmetric copy and we have sewn all pattern pieces together now we will switch to the 3d window where we want to place them around the avatar press 2 on your keyboard to get a central view on your avatar and now as next step we want to copy the arrangement of the pattern pieces and we'll do this by reset 2d arrangement all so the pattern pieces will be arranged as they are in the 2d window as a next step you might want to change the fabric texture to textured surface when you select textured surface it has the benefit that the backside of the pattern pieces are displayed in a different color than the front so they're gray and white is the front now after you have changed the texture now you want to make sure to switch on your arrangement points and you can find them in the vertical tackle menu or with shift f and as a next step with control a you can select all pattern pieces because you want to make sure that the pattern pieces don't block your view on the avatar so simply move them up and now we can start to select them for example in this case also in the 2d window so you click on a pattern piece you hover over arrangement point and you place the pattern piece and when you press a to switch to the back view and you can do the same for the back pattern piece the next step would then be the sleeve so adjust your camera viewpoint start with the cuff because otherwise the sleeve might cover the cuff and before you place this leaf make sure to select the full arrangement tool and fold the cuff of the lower cuff part inwards so that it is all already correctly arranged then select the sleeve place the sleeve on the arrangement point facing upwards and you see that it equally is placed on the other side the only thing is that you have to still do the fold arrangement manually as a last step select the hood pieces and choose the arrangement point next to the head to place them accordingly then you can start the simulation by pressing the space bar and you will have the first visualization of your garment all you have to do now is close the side seam of the cuff that has not been closed before once sewing everything correctly and arranging the pattern pieces is quite simple to create a stable simulation like this now in this part when looking at my pattern i can see that at the hood and also at the hemline i have this baselines indicating that there is a fold up and what i want to do now is i want to extend my pattern pieces and add to this fold up or add to my pattern piece to create the fold up for this i select my edit pattern tool and with shift press down i can select both and it's automatically also selecting the hem part of the symmetric pattern piece after this i click right directly on the line and choose the command offset pattern outline once you click it you can now choose the distance in this case we go for one inch and choose the option mirror at the bottom of the menu confirm with ok and your pattern piece will be extended and added on and you can see that the nice mirrored edge is created at the hem part now as a next step it would be similar to the cuff part where we have to fold it upwards and attach it to the top but we will first need to transform the baseline into internal lines so the shift press down select both press enter and the color of the line changes from blue to red so at the next step we would now like to sew them together with the help of the free sewing tool and so you collect the pattern outline to the internal line and then you do the same as in the cuff just make sure that the notches are all facing towards the middle as it is a double piece make sure to select sewing line type turned and then we do the same for the back use the trace tool the shift press enter to convert the lines and use the free sewing tool to sew them together when you sew a pattern outline to an internal line the sewing line type is automatically set to turn so you don't need to change it here once again the same for the small sewing bits here is a pattern outline to impact an outline so make sure to change it to turned now after all these have been completed we now want to deal with the hood so the hood also has a symmetry and we once again select the pattern outline choose the command offset pattern outline to create the fold a one inch and mirror and the extension will be created on both pattern pieces choose the trace tool with shift selected select both line and press enter then use the segment sewing tool to connect the long lines and the free sewing tool to connect the parts on the top and bottom of your hood remember to switch the sewing line type to turn in your property editor so one more time here at the bottom and now once all the sewing has been completed and it can cause some collision if you know would start the simulation so in order to create a more stable simulation select the fold arrangement tool and now fold up every hem part manually with the gizmo tool at hand you do the same for the hood and then lastly also for the hem part at the back of your garment now when you have small parts like this you might want to check the mesh size as we are working in particle distance 20. it can cause some collision issues so what is recommended is to select front and back parts and the hood basically every part that has a fold and lower the particle distance to 10 so that once you simulate it will be a more stable simulation and as you can see this worked out perfectly fine for this garment as a next step we would like to add a zipper to the front of our garment remember that at the beginning we were sewing the center front of the sweatshirt together and now as the first step we have to delete this seam to create the opening for the zipper by selecting the edit sewing tool right click delete after you deleted the seam line simply start the simulation and make sure that the pattern pieces have the possibility to drape and fall nicely next to each other to create a opening that now can be filled with the zipper at the very bottom we still need to change one sewing line type here to turned after this select the zipper tool in the 3d toolbar and choose the line where you want to place your zipper you can click multiple times along the line and you finish with a double click at the bottom after this the line turns gray you do the same for the second side and just follow the pattern line in the 3d window double click to conclude the zipper line and then your zipper has been placed you press space to start the simulation and in case your zipper is turned like you can see here you switch the tool to the select move to right click on the parts and choose the command flip normal to turn the zipper inside out and then you can see that you have placed your zipper in your sweatshirt if you now would like to change the material of the puller or slider just click on them and you will see the properties displayed in the property editor on the right now you can change it to a different slider or to a different puller and you also have options for the stopper if you now as a next step would like to open your zipper like shift your view that you look at it from the side make sure the simulation is turned off and simply drag and drop the slider downwards it is only possible to release it where you get the gray dot preview and now you can also make changes to your stoppers go to your property and select one of the material types that you see here for slider puller and stopper if you want to make it look more metallic choose the metallic material type and you will see it's displayed directly in your 3d window as the next step i now want to add some chords to my zipper and for this we need to create a pattern piece for the court now if i zoom in on my hood i see there is a line where i would like to attach this card afterwards it's still a baseline so i use the trace tool press enter and convert it to an internal line in my property editor i now see the line length it's roughly 0.5 inches a bit less and i will choose the rectangle tool shortcut s to create this pattern paste simply click in the window type in the correct values and confirm with ok to create this pattern piece you now won't like to change the size of the pattern piece choose the edit pattern tool and drag the line downwards to create this double fold up choose the offset as internal line function after right clicking choose the distance of 0.5 inches and make sure to create two internal lines one for the folding and the second one for the sewing and the next step with the segment sewing tool we can simply attach the two lines together now in the 3d window we want to bring it closer so on top right of the gizmo click on the icon and bring it closer use f key on your keyboard to focus and do the last positioning with the help of the gizmo now we want to attach it to the hood so choose the free or segment sewing tool to create the sewing relationship and use the fold arrangement tool to help the pattern piece fold up once again here i want to extend it a tiny bit more so i use the edit sewing tool to extend the pattern piece position it with the help of the gizmo lastly before i start the simulation i lower the particle distance to 5 to avoid any collision dangers for a small pattern piece like this also with the fold up where they come closely together now if i want to create the second part for the other part i choose the clone pattern with linked editing place it and with the help of the gizmo arrange it properly before i start the simulation when we look at the chords we've created we would normally like them to be displayed thicker but we will start by assigning physical properties and fabrics to our garment first like i open the library and access the folder with my prepared fabrics and now with a drag and drop i can place them in my object browser so i simply drag and drop them to the object browser and then i start to assign i select the pattern pieces by pressing shift and use the assign button at the far right and for the cuffs i use the 2x2 rib now with shift press down i select all the remaining pattern pieces and assign the fleece fabric to see the fabric displayed in its original thickness select thick textured surface and you can then see that the fabric is displayed thicker you can now select both of them and go to your simulation properties and you will find that there is one line that says additional thickness rendering and where we can add now one millimeter additional width to make it visually look a bit thicker and you can see it is applied directly to your garment after adding the physical properties we now have a look at how to apply top stitches to your garment how to change the pose of the avatar and as a last step transform your garment to a high-res garment so let's now change the pose of the avatar in our scene we have a male version 2 avatar so navigate to the corresponding folder choose pose and in this case we select the attention pose apply it by double clicking and you will see that the avatar changes its position now after you apply the pose the next step will now be to select all the pattern pieces by pressing ctrl and a and change the particle distance of all pattern pieces to 5 so that you get a better definition of your wrinkles you start the simulation quickly to simulate the changes in the drape and you can see it quite visually on the sleeve when adding an obj topstitch keep in mind that it will add to your file size and only do this after all changes in your garment are done now let's add top stitches to our project if you go to our library you will find that we have the iso top stitches already set there go to hardware and trims top stitch and there's a wide variety of these is iso top stitches for this project i will choose now the 406 simply drag and drop it into the object browser and i choose the second top stitch once again i you drag and drop it to the object browser now if i want to apply it here to the center front i now will have to choose my top stitch tool in this case free top stitch will do fine and you apply it in your 2d window choose the tops that you want to apply by clicking on it in the object browser and similar to the sewing tool follow the sewing line as it is a symmetric pattern it will be applied on both sides when you select your top stitch in the object browser you can now make changes to the offset for example or the spacing and many other settings now if you want to make it a bit more visual let's add a color to it click on the color i can open the color library and if you use this color multiple times click on add then you add it to your palette otherwise confirm with okay as a next step let's also add a top stitch to the hemline so select your top stitch and apply it with the three top stitch to to this internal line it's a double stitch so it has is set to two lines and i will do the same for the pattern piece on the back as well once this is set like we have still a shoulder seam where i would like to add a different type of top stitch and i want to add it as a seam line top stitch so with the seam line top stitch you can only place it along seams and half of the top stitch will be on one pattern piece and the other half will be on the other one pattern piece so that it has the visual effect of covering your seams as you can see here and let's do the same for the hood around the neckline once again it's nice to see how one part of the top stitch goes to the top and one to the back part in case you need to edit your top stitch simply use the edit topstitch tool and drag the end point of your top stitch when it comes to finalizing the garment make sure to switch on thick textured surface that your cords are displayed with both fabric sides having texture if you don't like the sharp edge around the hood where it is folded make sure to select the internal lines and after you have selected the internal lines you can go to your property editor and uncheck the box for fold rendering so it will create a more natural curve around here let me just change the color of my zipper tape once again and also for the sip super puller and slider and i do one more round just to make sure that all pattern pieces are more or less in place and as a last step i will now merge the pieces on the center back and make sure they become one pattern piece so with edit set pattern tool right click on the center back and choose the command merge now when all parts are simulated correctly we can now do uh the last bit of fine tuning where you still have the option to um yeah pull the garment in the direction and and also influence the wrinkles to achieve the desired look and after this is done as a last step you now choose the high res garment button you have the settings and you confirm this with okay now your garment will go to the high-res simulation and it might perform a bit slower as more calculations are done when you start the hi-res simulation you notice that the error appear turns red so this means the fitting accurate simulation is activated once you press it you will notice that little by little your garment drape changes slightly during this process just make sure to not click with your mouse there's no more changes in the drape press the hi-res simulation button again and then you have arrived at your final result thank you very much for watching this tutorial and good luck with your projects you

Channel: CLO

Views: 9,820

Keywords: CLO3D, CLO, 3D, Virtual, Fashion

Id: QrW4Xt0yz-8

Length: 31min 24sec (1884 seconds)

Published: Thu Apr 22 2021