Denim Construction Workflow

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hello everyone in this video we're going to see the step-by-step process of building a denim pants so here are the steps that we're going to follow so step one we're going to arrange the shell patterns step two we're going to do the sewing and the simulation of those shell patterns step three we're going to build the front pocket bags step four we're going to build the zipper fly step five we're going to add the back pockets the internal waistband as well as the belt loops and finally for step six we're going to add the fabrics we will fine tune our garment and then finally we will add the top stitches for this video we will use already made patterns and we will show this process on menswear denim so i already have loaded my mail model and i'm going to load my patterns as dxf so here i have them here and i will select click right and then select out to workspace i'm going to add them and they will appear in my 2d and 3d window as flat so the first step that we're going to do is arranging those patterns first the shell patterns around the avatar's body so once they appear i'm just going to bring the patterns all the way up it can be up or on the side it's just a matter to have a better access to my avatar's body when i will bring the arrangement points so first before arranging my patterns i'm going to freeze the ones that i'm not going to need in this first arrangement so i'm going to freeze my fly patterns as well as my belt loops my pocket bags this little pocket opening patterns here my back pockets the rest of my belt loops and my internal waistband so the one that is on top so then i will click right either in the 2d or in a 3d window and i will select freeze here we have them frozen so now we can start arranging our shell patterns on my arrangement points so the strategy of arranging the patterns for denim pants or for any kind of um more tricky garments is always to work from the outside so from the shell towards the inside this is one strategy um there's multiple ways but this is the one that i find to be the most easy so i'm going to select my front leg i'm going to bring my arrangement point with either shift f which is my short key or i will go here on this little icon and select this icon with the blue dots here once they're there then i'm going to arrange my front leg so i'm going to select it in the 2d window place it in the 3d so i select it by one click left here and i place it here with one click left if i feel that my patterns are merging a tiny bit or colliding a little bit too much inside my avatar's body i can always while the pattern is selected go down in my property editor and change the offset a little bit so i can bring it to 60 for example and do the same on the other side then i can arrange my back leg so this one i selected here i place it on this arrangement point so always make sure that when you select your patterns it will always arrange it according to the center point of the pattern so where this point is so you have to consider which arrangement points to place it on based on the center of your pattern like that then i can also place my yoke so i can place it here and this one here if i find that this is a little bit too high i can select both and again go into my arrangement settings in property editor and change the position of the y so bring it a little bit more down then i can select my external waistband and place it on the arrangement point that is right in the back lower back of my avatar so these are the first patterns that i need to arrange these are the shell pattern the rest of frozen now we are ready to go on to the second step which is sewing and simulating the shell patterns so for this part we're not going to we don't necessarily need to start with a specific edge to start sewing so we can start wherever we want so i'm going to start with the inseam so i'm going to select my free sewing tool and i'm going to start to stitch from up to down it can be on the other way just make sure that your mark is in the same direction here so i do it on one side then i can do it on the other side so i go from the top to the bottom here and here from the top to the bottom so i've sewn my inseam now i can start stitching my um my outer seam so here i just have to mine that i have this pocket opening so i need to make sure to stop at this notch that i see right here so i place this notch to help me know the length of my sewing line so in your case probably you will need to determine that to determine that on your own so i'm going to go from all the way up from the bottom to the top to that notch and here from the bottom to the um edge here or to the point here i will do the same on the other side some from the bottom to that notch here from the bottom to my top here so i have my outer seam i can now also stitch my um back yoke so these are quite easy so i will go from left to right here left to right and here from right to left right to left like that i can then stitch my center back crotch so here i can because i don't have any points in the middle i could select my segment sewing tool so i'm going to select my segment sewing tool and just connect both of those edge with one click for each part so one click here one click there one click here one click there one click here one click there this seems to be pretty good now for the front crutch uh we're going to do a sewing line that is um not going to be the final one it's just so that it keeps closed um and in order for the pads not to fold down when we will simulate so i'm going to select again my free sewing tool and i'm just going to stitch all the way from the top to the bottom and here also from the top to the bottom i know this is not the right um let's say stitching line but it's just a matter to close um in order to close my patterns in a temporary way or my pants in a temporary temporary way um then i just finally need to stitch my waistband to my back yoke and my front leg patterns so here i've also done some notches to help me figure out where to place each sewing lines so i'm going to start from my center back here so i'll go from this notch to this one which will be exactly the same length as this top part of my yoke so i'll do it on the other side as well and i can do it also for my front so here as you see there is the pocket that is missing and this is going to be um the sewing line that is will be in between those two knots so i'm going to skip that and i'm going to go from this notch to the edge of my pattern and here from here to here then i will do the same on the other side so i'm going to skip this part because this is where my pocket patterns are going to be placed and i'm going to go from here to here here i have a little extra length and that's just because it's going to be stitched to the fly so i'm going to take care of that later so i'm going to go from this notch to this notch which will be then from here to here once that is done then we can finally simulate this first part and we see that the pants is quite stable in order to continue forwards uh what we can also do is in order to prevent our pens to fall down you can also freeze the waistband um in a temporary manner so that way when we will place the front pockets as well as the rest of the patterns the pence is not going to fall down so i'm going to click right on my waistband and then select freeze now you see that if i pull my patterns down it will stay immobile from the waistband so now we're ready to go in step 3 and take a look on how to layer the front pockets you must have already seen that there is a video that exist about layering the front pockets of a denim um this is going to be exactly the same process um so feel free to also check that video if you would like a refresher but i will go in detailed so you shouldn't have you shouldn't be needed to do that so the steps uh or the strategy that we're going to follow is the same as when building the whole denim is that we work from the outside and we build towards the inside so we're going to start to layer the pattern that is the closest to the shell uh pattern so closest to the leg pattern and if we take a look at our pocket pattern so this is going to be our pocket bag because this line here is going to be first attached to this line here so we are going to progressively unfreeze the parts that we will need so i'm going to go up and i see that as i have my patterns are frozen here so because the first pattern that i'm going to layer is going to be my pocket bags i'm going to select both of my pocket bags here in my 2d window click right on one of them and then select unfreeze which is right here oh and in my case just make sure that your simulation is off so i'll just go back again i'm going to select my patterns and then click right and then unfreeze once they're frozen then we can start to do the sewing so that afterwards we can superimpose them so i'm going to in order to do the superimpose to use the superimposed function you only need to create one sewing connection so you don't need to already stitch the whole patterns together you just need one sewing line so i'm going to do this one line around the pocket opening right here so i'm going to select my free sewing tool i'm going to go from the top towards the side you can go on the other side it doesn't really matter as long as you follow the same direction for your second sewing line and because this pattern piece is going to be pressed flat under this pattern piece and it's going to be pressed flat and turned on this sewing line i need to make sure that i change my sewing line type here from custom angle to turn that way it's going to fall flat and nice i'm going to do the same on the other side right here and then right there and of course once i finish doing this sewing lines then i change my sewing line type to turn once that is done then i can select my patterns in my 3d window i can select both at the same time then click right and then select the option superimpose under so the default under in order to have a better view of the inside of my garment i can hide my avatar by just clicking on this icon here in the vertical toggle menu or to use the short key shift a which is quite useful so i'm going to do shift a and now i see on the inside and i'm just going to simulate in order to stabilize the drape of those pockets so it seems stable but as we see on the inside it's a little bit wrinkly right here so in order to unwrinkle the pocket bags i'm going to click right on both of them and i'm going to select the option strengthen and now you see that they will become flat and nice inside my pants so i'm going to keep it strengthened for a while just because i need to also fold the pockets so that we have actually like pocket bags so for now i'm going to keep it strengthened before actually folding the pocket bags we need to place this pattern which is going to be sandwiched in between so i'm going to do the same i'm going to create one sewing line so that we can do the superimpose function so i'm going to connect it with the waistband so i'm going to select my um my pattern so let's see here oh so i see here that my patterns are flipped so i can first flip them so click right on them and then say select flip horizontally so that or this one here click right flip horizontally so that it's on the same direction as my pocket bag and your as well flip horizontally and now i can start my sewing so remember how we left the this part like blank from any stitches on our waistband this is the time where we're going to stitch it to this pattern um to the length that is in between those notch so i'm going to start from the left to the right so here i have placed a notch so i know i have to stop there and then i'm gonna go from here to here and this time i do not need to um turn my sewing line tight because when we take a look my this pattern is going to be placed um on the all the way um on the not under not over it's going to be placed on the side of this pattern so it's going to be going straight down so i'm going to do the same for the other little pocket part so from here to there which is going to be from in between those two notch so once that is done then i can select my patterns in the 3d window so i can first unfreeze them so click right on both of them and then select unfreeze and i can while they're both selected i can click right on one of them and in my right click menu select the option superimpose side and you see that it will sometimes it can happen that it has this kind of twisted look so you can just replace it a little bit and just simulate because again they're also a little bit wrinkly what we can do is we can strengthen them so i'm going to click right on both of them and then select the strengthen option now they're completely flat i can stop the simulation because i see that they're kind of sticking out of the pockets so i can select one after the other and just try to replace it a little bit on the inside so like this like that so for this one and this way for the other one and once that is done then i can simulate and everything seems stable i can stop my simulation when that is the case now i can i can close my pocket back because they're so open so i will close them using the fold arrangement tool but first as you see here i actually need an internal line in order to fold and as you see right there this is not an internal line this is a base line so i need to convert this baseline as an internal line so i'm going to select my trace tool right here or it's short key i and i'm going to select both lines here with my shift key and i can press enter and you'll see that they will both turn as internal line once that is done then i can use my fold arrangement tool in the 3d window i can select one internal line after the other and then depending on the way or the where is your front and back of the fabric you can bring either the green arrow towards the red from the inside or the right towards the green depending on how it looks like but i'm going to bring my green towards my red and as you see i'm not going to go full i'm not going to turn it fully i'm going to stop when i see that it's not merging too much of my pants pattern and here i need to make sure that i'm closing the angle here so that it falls perfectly flat so here in my property editor i change the full angle from the value that you currently have to zero if you see that the value leans more towards the zero you change towards zero if it leans more towards 360 please change to 360. and you have to know that the middle when the fabric is flat is 180. so i'll do the same on the other side so here you see the difference is like actually it's the red air or let it keep changing the red or green so here i'll just bring my red arrow towards my green i'm not gonna go too much far in just because i don't want it to merge too much or to collide too much with my external patterns and i'm going to change my fold angle here to zero so you should have something like that once that is done then you can simulate and your pocket should fall perfectly flat and if it's stable then you can stop the simulation and we can start to do the whole stitching so to do the stitching so i see i have multiple stitch lines to create so i have to actually fit close this little opening right here so i'm going to select my free sewing tool and it's actually going to stitch this pattern with the yoke and the back leg so i made myself some notch to help me figure out the length so i'm going to start from the top to that first notch and that's going to be from the top of my yoke to the bottom of my yoke then here so from this notch to the second notch and this is going to be with a stitch to the top part of my back leg so from here to that notch then i can do the same on the other side so which is this side so i'm going to go from here to here which is to the the top part of my yoke to the bottom part of my yoke and then from the first notch to the second notch which is the top part of my leg to the bottom to that first notch once that is done and i can simulate and once everything's stable then we can continue with the stitching of my back of my pocket bags so i'm going to stitch the bottom part here so the pocket back to itself so because it's fold folded on with the on the internal line i have to think of my internal line as my center or as the beginning point of my sewing line so i'm going to go from here to my right and i'm gonna go all around then i'm starting back from the center from that intern line to that notch right here and because the pocket box is folded or pressed flat to itself i need to change my sewing line type to turn i'm going to do the same on the other side so from here to that notch from there to this point and then i'm turning my sewing line type then i simulate to make sure things are stable they look quite stable which is good then i can stitch the rest so this part here to the side of this little pattern so i will go from the top to the notch which is from the top to that notch and again i need to turn my sewing line tight because it's folded or pressed flat on that sewing line here so i can do the same on the other side so the top to the notch and here the top to that notch and i'm turning my sewing line tight then i can simulate and the last thing that i can stitch is my top part of my pocket bag which i can stitch to my waistband so here let's figure out where i have to start so because here this this part here is actually the one that is on the side seam so i have to look take a look at which of my notch is the side seam notch so it's actually for this part it's going to be this one here so i'm going to go from the side seam here to the pocket um to the pocket um to the full of the pocket and it's going to be from here from that notch because it's a side seam notch to this blue point because i didn't mark actually the on the ending of my pocket bag and here i do not need to turn my sewing line tight because it's going to go straight down to the waist from the waistband so i'll do the same on the other side so from here to the folded line and then from that notch to the blue dot which will mark the exact same length and then i can simulate and everything seems to be quite stable let's see and if you have something sticking up a little bit like me then you can just try to replace it on the inside like that so the next part the last part that we need to add for my front pocket is this little coin pocket right here that we haven't added so the coin pocket is right there as we see it's as in order to stitch it on this pattern i need to turn those base line as internal lines so i'm going to select my trace tool and i'm going to double click in order to get all of those lines selected and i will press enter to turn them as base as internal lines then i will stitch my patterns around so i'm going to go from here so first let me see if it's the same length yes so it's a little bit too big so here i can remove this line which i won't need right there so here i can stitch from this to here and here to the blue dot here to here here to the blue dot and then this to the outline so from here to here and for where it's selected on the outline because it's folded flat so i'm going to turn my sewing line type then i can select my pattern piece in my 3d window to unfreeze it first so click right and freeze and then i'm going to superimpose it over because it's going to go over this pattern piece and once that is on then i can simulate and once everything is stable then i can select all of the patterns of my pockets that have been strengthened and i can unstrengthen them because now everything is stable and we do not need the strengthening option anymore so i click right on one of them and select and strengthen and i simulate and everything seems stable still yeah so this is for this step so step three now we're ready to move on to step four which is building the zipper fly so for the zipper fly we can already start to remove this sewing line that we created remove it partially because we still need to have some kind of some part of the front crotch to be closed like especially this part right here and we can also unfreeze our waistband so i'm going to first start with removing some parts of the front crotch sewing line so please select your edit sewing tool right here and i'm going to select this sewing line and then press my backspace button in order to remove it and i'm going to stitch it again so i'm just going to stitch this part right here so i'm going to select my segment sewing tool and i'm just going to click left here and click left there just so that at least i secure this bit i will then unfreeze my waistband so click right and then select unfreeze but let's still add some pins just because i'm a bit um scared that it's going to fall down the the floor so you can select it uh you can add bits with your select move tool you can press your w key in order to select specific pins so here so i'm adding them right there like that once that is the case then you can we can open the pants and then we will add the fly so we will start with um we will start with this part right here to stitch it to the waistband and to our uh right leg right leg pattern so first because as i see i mean there needs to be a fault on this pattern and this fold needs to be placed on an intern line and at the moment this is a baseline so i need to trace it as an internal line so please select your trace tool and select this baseline right here and then press enter in order to transform it as a internal line we can do the same for the rest of the base lines that we will use for our fly so this is going to be this line here this line there and this line here so i'm selecting this one pressing enter this one pressing enter here i'm double clicking because as you see i have two segments so i'm pressing then enter so that way i do not have to go back on my trace tool again so first let's start stitching this part of the fly so i'm going to select my segment sewing tool and i'm going to do this stitch both of those edges together so here i click left and here i click left then in my 3d window i will select my pattern i will click right i will unfreeze it because i'm going to actually use it then i'm going to actually superimpose it on the side so click right superimpose side just because it's a small pattern piece um at this point like arrangement points are not going to be very helpful so this is why we use a lot of superimpose and why do we place it on the side because it's not going to be in under so if i were to place on it's going to be folded under which we do not want and over it's going to be placed on top folded which we also do not want so we want it to be placed on the side like that so once it's placed then you can simulate just to make sure that it's um somewhat secured and i can stitch this top part here with my waistband before folding it together so i'm going to select my free sewing tool and i'm going to stitch this tiny top part here to my waistband so i'm going i'm going to go from the left to the right to the center point right here which is going to be from this part of like this notch to this edge remember this is some part that we left earlier on so from this notch here to this edge and once i've done that and i can simulate and think seems to be placed pretty well now i can finally fold my this this pattern piece but before folding it with my full arrangement tool i'm going to add some strengthening in order to help it feel better so i'm going to click right on the pattern and i'm going to select the strengthen option i'll simulate to make it a little bit more rigid and now i can use my fold arrangement tool so selecting the 3d window the full arrangement tool then select that internal line and i'm going to fold it towards the inside so i'm bringing this green arrow towards the red like that and of course make sure that then you change the full angle from the value that you have to zero if it's the back towards the back side touching the back side or 360 if it's the front side of the fabric touching the front side then before simulating i just want to replace it so that it's on the inside of my pants like that i can even maybe use the gizmo bit to turn it and just bring it a little bit towards the front like this then i can simulate everything seems quite all right and i'm just going to secure this fold by stitching this back part to the front part so basically stitching this pattern to itself so i'm going to select my segment sewing tool and i'm going to stitch this here to this pattern here and i'm going to turn my sewing line tight because it's pressed flat on the same on itself and a nice stitch and it looks good then i can stitch this top part because as you see this is open so i can stitch this to here so of course the notches like or the mark are in the opposite direction because it's folded and i need to change my sewing like type to turn because it's pressed flat and i can do the same at the bottom so i stitch this part to this part and i change my sewing line type to turn and then you can simulate and everything seems fine then i can stitch this pattern um to my back leg to my front leg so this one is quite easy so i'm going to follow along the curve so i'm going to go from the top toe to the bottom and here from the top to the bottom right here then again i can select this frozen pattern in the 3d window click right on it select unfreeze and then click right again and then select superimpose this time under because i want it to be under my leg pattern then i can stitch the sides edges together so here to here and because this is folded flat and we need to change the the sewing line type to turn same thing on the top so from here to here and here to here and i change my sewing line type to turn then you can simulate to make sure everything's stable which it is and once that is done then we can add our zipper so i need to in order to add the zipper i just need to make sure that it's a little bit more open because adding a zipper can be a bit tricky sometimes just because this is quite some patterns that are very close to each other so i'm going to add a pin at the edge of my waistband here and there i'm going to simulate and i will bring this one a little bit more flat and this one i will push it out a little bit so that i have a better view for my fly so i can even add one more pin here and push it a little bit like that yes once that is done then i can start to add my zipper so i will add it directly in my 3d window so here you have the zipper so i'm going to go from the top to the bottom about right here so i'm just making sure i'm a little bit below this mark because this is where i'm going to have my bar tag so here this seems to be good so when i'm finished my first zipper line i double click then i'm going to go on the inside right here so i go from all the way to the top and here you should see a blue dot so it's a little bit hidden but you see it appear right here and when you see it you go to it you go you reach you reach to the blue dot and then you just double click to finalize this zipper line so this blue dot basically will allow you to know that you have the exact same distance from one side to the other so once that is done then we can remove the pins because otherwise it will create um it will be quite tricky for the fly to close itself so i'm going to select my pin with my my select move tool here this one i can leave but i will remove this one and i can simulate to close my zipper like that let's see and if it's not really stable just stop the simulation and we can try to replace the zipper a bit so here like that let's see if this is better this looks a bit better and once i also see that my zipper is flipped so i just need to select it click right and you have this option that's called flip normal which will allow you to bring it towards the front again like that oh and i see that my zipper is still a bit twisted so let's see also it can happen that the size is um it's a little bit too small so i might need to change the size of my zipper so here let me see if i can replace it a little bit ah yes seems better and yes and here i see that my pocket bags are a little bit out in both cases which can be a bit sometimes problematic but sometimes you can use strengthen it will work on its own um but in our case here if this is really out then let's see if we can try to place it back in slowly by also opening the pocket right there like this here i can strengthen this part so that it goes on the inside i will also add a pin so that it stays there and this one i will remove like that so this looks a bit more stable and i can keep it strengthened so if it keeps on moving out so for the zipper it looks okay but maybe let's see if i can change the size so here it's set up to be a width of 0.5 but i can make it a bit bigger at 1 so that it doesn't feel so tight here maybe that's a little bit too much so maybe 0.5 was still good so it's when it says 0.5 it's 0.5 for one of the side of the tape like that yeah so this is for the zipper so then i just need to finish the sewing lines here so here i'm going to um go from here to there which is going to be from here to the blue dots and now it looks a bit better yeah so this is the zipper fly that we have um constructed so before we're not going to add the button right away we will add it after well we do the fine tuning after adding the internal waistband because we will add um top stitches but as well as rivets and buttons um yes so this is for the zipper fly so now we're ready um to move on to the next step which is adding the back pockets the internal waistbands the belt loops and also let's add the button and the rivet there so let's start with let's start with the easy easy part which is the back pocket so it's pretty straightforward here we have um the lines of our back pockets that are traced as baseline but we need to of course have them transform as internal line so we're going to trace them so please select your trace tool and i can double click on one edge of my shape that is on the inside of my pattern in order to select everything and then i will press my enter button or my key and i will do the same on the other side so here i double click and i press enter now i'm ready to start stitching my pocket bags to my internal shape so i'm going to select them both then i'm going to unfreeze them so i click right on one of them in the 2d or in the 3d doesn't really matter then i select unfreeze once they're unfrozen so make sure that your simulation button is off not like me when i did it last time so that the pockets don't fall to the ground and i'm going to start to stitch them together so here i'm gonna go from one side and i'm gonna go all the way around and i'll do the same for my internal shape right here and same thing on the other way here and then here so i'm using my free sewing tool then i'm going to select them in my 3d window so select both then i click right and i say superimpose over because they're going to go over my back patterns once that is done and i can simulate and i see that i have my pocket bags once i have my pocket bags then i can do um i can add my internal waistband so here it is so i can do the same i can click right on it make sure that your simulation arrow is um deactivated then select unfreeze then i'm gonna go stitch them around so this time i'm not gonna go and stitch them around the same way as i did for my pocket just because sometimes on those corners it can look like there's a bit of a bubbly effect so i prefer just stitching one side after the other here i'm making sure that once i do one line i turn it i change the sewing knife type to turn just because the internal waistband is going to be pressed flat under the external waistband so i do the same here all around to here then i change my sewing light type to turn top to bottom here from top to bottom i change my sewing light type to turn and i go from left to right here from left to right there and i change my sewing light type to turn then i'm going to select my internal waistband i'm going to click right and then say superimpose under it will go under so if that happens maybe just try to click right again and say superimpose under and it will be placed again nicely then you can simulate to make sure everything is stable it seems stable which is good and i can add now my belt loops so for my belt loops i have them here so they're also frozen so make sure that your simulation is off so that you can unfreeze them so i'm going to select them all at once here and i'm going to unfreeze them i click right and select unfreeze like that and here you see that i have a little mark for my belt loops so um and this is um these were tray size baseline so i need to trace them or convert them into internal lines so i'm going to select one after the other and press enter with my trace tool so that they become internal lines so one here one there one here and then there's the two remaining ones here and there once i've done that then i can start to stitch them at the um at the bottom so for the belt loops um depending on your style sometimes it can happen that you have a line here and it's stitch from here to there so we can do the same actually so let's see the distance so it's about 0.5 so i can select each of my ends here here then here with my shift key and my edit pattern tool so this is my pen tool and click right on one of the end and then offset as internal line and we'll offset it at a distance of 0.5 centimeters like that so i'm going to first stitch this bottom part then to my pattern edge so here i'm going to go from one side to the other and because i don't have a mark just make sure that you stitch it a little bit right in the front or right on top of this of this line so here i do the same so from here to there from here to here oh and one thing that i forgot is because those are actually going to be turned or going to be press flat from this sewing line i need to make sure that i select my sewing line with my edit pattern tool my sewing tool sorry and change the sewing my type here two turns just because otherwise it will try to go to stick straight and might not look very flat here then here then i can continue on for those so i'm selecting my free sewing tool so from here to here then from here to here and from here to here here to here then from here to here and here to here and again i need to select them all here because i didn't change my sewing light type so let's change those i select both all of them together change the sony type here to turn like that so once they're selected i can there we've done that we can select them all like this click right on one of them and then say superimpose over because that way you see they're going to be placed nicely over now we're ready to assimilate so please simulate everything seems good so one thing maybe you see here that you see how it's kind of like going up a little bit so that's probably because my sewing line types are not properly turned oh yes they are so it seems quite alright so let's see yeah so it seems pretty good let's just then continue on so yes so now what we can do is as you see here this is quite a small pattern piece and we need to do all sorts of folding and stitching and as i see here doesn't look super realistic it's a little bit angular so we see really the mesh um so if i change to my mesh view you see that this is quite big so what i can do is i can change the particle distance of those small belt loops just so that it's easier for me to visualize the drapes so here i'm going to select them all and i'm going to turn change my particle distance here from 20 to 5 and if i change it to such a low particle distance for such small piece it's okay because they're not going to actually move a lot we're not going to interact with them a lot in a dynamic way so they're not going to slow down our um or work yeah so now it seems a little bit more um seems a little bit more realistic so i can stitch now um this part to my internal line so i'm gonna go here so i'm gonna go from left click to left click right there then again here left click left click here left click left click so i'm using my segment sewing tool because this is just one segment stitch to another one here left click left click and once that is done then i can simulate and now they're stitched together which is quite nice now i can stitch this part right here to my waistband so for my waistband i didn't add any marks so if i want to do it in a more free way i can do it directly in my 3d window using the free sewing tool so i'm going to select my free sewing tool and i'm going to start from my belt loops and then attach them to my waistband so if you're using the free sewing tool in the 3d window you just have to be careful because in order to end one sewing line you have to double click instead of doing just one left click so here i click left and here i double click to complete and then i'm going to go on the top so click left and then here i see my little blue dot and i double click then here i click left and then i click left and i double click and i can go here and i double-click then here i click left and i double-click here i click left and i double-click here i click left my double click i will click left and double click and again here i click left and a double click and here i click left and i double click so because here they're kind of a bit flat um if i were to simulate it might create some kind of collision a little bit so in order to prevent that i'm just going to kind of have them folded a little bit more and in order to do that we can use our mesh tool so i can select each of this part so for example this at the bottom here like that and i can use my gizmo to fold it a little bit so that it's we help it move towards the sewing line so i can do the same on the here like that and i fold it maybe move it a little bit like that there's no need to be super perfect it's just a matter of like because we do not want to see the sewing lines kind of merging with other patterns so it's just to help it figure out its way so don't worry if you're not that precise for this this part as long as you see that there's nothing coming in between those colorful lines then here again i'm doing the same like that and moving it a little bit and the last part this one so i'll just go all the way on the opposite side here i'm turning around and i'm moving this part like that so once that is on then you can simulate and all of it seems to be quite fine like that yeah and here if it's still a bit twisted maybe just try to untwist it yeah seems quite good so this is for the belt loops and then the last bit that we can add is um the button for my waistband as well as the rivets so for the button so i'm gonna go on my waistband in the 2d window so the buttons you can add it in the 2d or in a 3d it doesn't really matter um but i personally prefer adding it in a 2d window just because i see it flat and it's a little bit easier to find a placement so i'm going to add my button so here's my button tool i select it in the 3d window so i'll select here and i'm going to place my button so i made myself a mark so i'm just going to place it on the middle part of that mark so just make sure that it can be helpful to have a mark um sometimes that it happens that you do not make yourself a market in another cat software but just in order for yourself to save sometimes can be quite nice to make a mark for your buttons and buttonhole so i've made my mark for my button now i can switch my tool from the button tool to the buttonhole tool and i can go right here at the front a center like that of my of my button uh my my buttonhole mark like this then i can close my button fasten my button to my buttonhole so i'm going to select my fastening tool and i can fasten by in the 3d or in a 2d by clicking first on the bottom and then on the buttonhole like that once it's fastened then i can simulate and everything seems quite fine one thing that you can also change for your buttonholes usually for like a pants like the button tends to pull a little bit more towards the center front um so here you but you can change the binding position so it's like this real little green dot that you see right here so i'm going to select my um select move button tool select my buttonhole and here you see that in the property editor you can change the button position so i can change from 50 to 25 for example and you see that it will move the button a little bit more towards the center front so it can be useful for pens in order to show like the closing pressure of the button so i can now change the style of my button so i'm going to go into my default button which is the one that i have for my my opening and i can change the shape to something that is a little bit more related to a denim so maybe this this type of button right here or maybe another one let's see maybe this one yeah this one seems a bit better and i can change the color of course so i'll place a different color something a little bit more like let's say coppery something like that yeah and i can change the type aspect so make it metal so i have this kind of metal uh button i can then add my um rivets if i want so i'm going to create a new button so i'm going to click on add and i'm gonna change the style of this new button so here the shape i'm gonna change to something that is a bit more like rivet so like this shape i will change the dimension so let's try one centimeters not exactly sure this is the right one but let's see um i can pick the same color as i have here let's see if this one wants to work or maybe i'll just select it like that and again i will place it on metal like that then i can start to place my rivets so i can place one here usually this is where you have some rivets placed so i'm going to place it here let's see if one centimeter is not too big maybe it's a little bit big so let me change the shape the size to um 75 let's see yeah it seems a bit better so i'll place my button here then i can move it with the placement like that yeah that seems good then i will [Music] i will do the same on the other side so here i'll just select my button tool again and because this is my button one which i can call actually i can double click here and call rivet it will be placed automatically so here i can place it i'll just place them all and then move them once i'm happy with my placement so i have to place one here and then one there usually you have some in the coin pocket and i can place one as well on let's see where on the on the back of my pockets here so here um maybe on my pocket here be better and then here and then finally here and then here and usually you also have one here like that and here like this then i can select my select move button tool and just change the placement so that it feels a little bit more better a little bit better here then i'll change the placement of this one here so that it's right at the corner then i'll do the same here on the top and for the back pocket like this and like that and for the other side like this and like that great so once that is done then we have placed our rivets in our button and now and we have placed our bed loop and now we can go on to the last step which is step 6 adding fabric fine tuning and top stitches now let's go on and add some fabric so let's go into our library so in my case i already had some pre-existing done denim fabric but of course if you do not have any feel free to go into our fabric library and find the denim fabrics that we have so denim bra the denim lightweight or the name stretch um up to you but if you have your own feel free to use your own as well so i'm going to go into my fabrics and i'm going to select one of those so i'll probably go with this one so because i have two different types of fabrics usually on the name one needs to be different for my pocket bags so i'm first what i'm going to do is i'm going to select my fabric from my library drag and drop it in my object browser right here and for the fabric of my pocket bag i'm going to use something quite generic from our fabric library i'm going to go with a cotton cotton oxford for example so i'm going to select all of my pattern and with my shift press i'm going to deselect my pocket bags and then i'm going to assign my fabric my denim fabric which is in my keyschool07 i can decide in by drag and dropping it on one of the patterns or clicking on this little arrow right here so i'm just going to click on this arrow right there i can now also and strengthen my this part of my pocket bags because i don't really need the strengthening anymore so i click right on one of them and then select unstrengthen like that and then i can go into my uh back on the inside and i will change my pocket back here to my cotton oxford so i'll select both and then i apply my cotton oxford right here like that so one thing that i can see as well is that usually on the waistband um this is actually flipped so this is the the top or the front side of the fabric should be appearing on the inside like that so and here i see that this is actually my fabrics back side so if i want to flip my my my pattern what i can do is i can click right here and then select the flip normal option because in that way i can flip my fabric right here like that and then if i simulate thing seems to um be good yes like this oops like that yes so now what i'm gonna do is so for this fabric it's fine um and it seems quite all right so i can also change something that i forgot to change i can also change the look of my zipper so here i can change the color of my zipper my zipper slider and puller i can change the style as well as change the color so here i can take something different maybe something like that and then something like this and i can change the color i also have i can put a top ending for my top and my bottom as well and i can change the color to something maybe a little bit lighter so that it's similar to what i had like that and change the fabric material type to metal like this yes and i can also change of course let's say the color of my zipper teeth so something to have it may be on the darker gray like that so once i've done that then i can see that once i've simulated that the drape has changed a little bit according to the properties of my denim um also don't for feel free to also bring it um the patterns or the pens a little bit up because it can have tended to slide down a little bit so to do that i can select all of my pattern pieces like this bring it up with a tiny bit especially that you see that here towards the bottom it will not be as stretched out so here i'm going to also remove all of those pins that i added because i don't need them anymore so i click right on one of them and select delete all pins like that all right so this is for adding the fabric now let's say that i want to add the um add some fine tuning so change the change the change the some the thickness of some patterns so that you have a little bit more of uh of an effect so i can change um the rendering thickness of some of the patterns so this is basically how um large or how wide your pattern is going to appear so here for example if i change that and i put it to 10 your cigar is going to be very thick like that but of course we don't want that that's too thick so i'm going to change that to let's say for this type of pan piece to 1.5 or two so i'll add it to 1.5 looks a little bit better so i'll do that for all of the rest of the belt loops so this is quite a nice uh trick especially if you want to make your patterns appear that there's kind of this the seam allowance has been turned inside and you have this sewing that is taken in consideration so because usually in real life your sewing lines uh or your stitches like create this kind of depth effect on your patterns so i can also add some thickness on my internal and external waistband so i'll select both and i add rendering of one for both like that for this coin pocket i can add also some thickness maybe two could be good maybe if two is too much maybe two is still a bit too much maybe 1.5 is good then here for my back here i'll add 1.5 and here because we also want the yolk um to be on top like to feel like it's uh like the seam allowance is folded in the bottom i add some rendering thickness so i add one as well so that it feels a little bit more uh thick like that and that's and then for the remaining patterns i can add 0.5 so so that's there's still some kind of it feels a little bit not like a piece of paper especially when you're gonna look at the ankles so 1.5 0.5 sorry so that's for the thickness um then in terms of fine tuning what we can also do is change the change the resolution of your garment so change the particle distance change the collision thickness as well as change the skin offset of the avatar but first before doing that i'm just going to add the top stitch because this part is done strictly at the end so now i can go on to add my top stitches so let me remove my internal lines i have a better view so let's add some really fun uh maybe create some really high contrast with my top stitch and add really dark topstitch so that i can really see the contrast with my um difference with my fabric so i'm going to go in my top stitch here and i'm just going to select first the default top stitch and i'm going to select a darker color so here i'll just select something like that this seems good and i will just add one um so i'll just do so this is one i'm going to call one end so for one stitch um and let me change some of the parameters so i'm going to change the offset so let's see how it is at the moment 0.16 so i've changed to 0.2 then i'm going to change the spacing here so that i have a little bit so my stitch lines um or my top stitch doesn't feel so tight so i'll change to 0.05 i'll change my thread thickness so that it looks a little bit more thick like denim stitches i'll change it to 80 here and then for the rest let's see how this looks first and then let's change for the rest so i'm going to add it first on my waistband around my waistband so here so i'll go around with my free top stitch tool so i'll select this one and i'm just going to go around here and i see it here so maybe i can make it a little bit more thick so here i'm going to change the thickness to maybe 120 and i'm also going to change the length stitch per inch to maybe something a little bit more white like um like something like 10. so that seems good um then i can let's see is this um maybe a little bit too close so let's see if i can change the here to 0.25 how it will look yeah it will look all right then i am going to add this type of top stitch to my belt loops as well so i'm going to use my free top stitch this time my my segment top stitch this time and i'm going to add it on both sides let's see how it looks like yeah pretty good here and here here here here here here here and then i'm doing i did it all yes and i can also add this one single top stitch to my back here so i'll again um select my free top stitch tool and i'll go all the way around my internal my internal waistband like that and i can one add also um and yes so that seems um pretty good yes i can also add one usually there's one that goes all the way down here on the front leg so let me bring it so that i have a better way so i made a little mark here for where i will have a bar type which i will add later on like this and then like that and then i can go on to make another top stitch which is going to be a two end so i'll select this one i will copy it and this one i'm going to call 2n because i want it to be a double stitch so then i'm going to go all the way down in my configuration you see here that you can change the number of lines so i'm going to add two and i will let leave the differences of 0.63 which is pretty good let's see later on if i need to change that so i'm going to add it around my pocket opening so i'm going to select my free top stitch tool and add it around like that like this then do it on the other side like that i might need to replace my buttons so that they are they stay right in the middle like this like that so let me continue on with my top stitches then i can also add it here and what is quite nice is i can decide where to place my to place it so i can flip the placement so that it's on the inside of the line like that and i can also place some top stitch around my pocket here like that again maybe replace the button a little bit that seems to be good yeah good enough then i can do the same for my back here like that and like this like this here and like that as you see right here and again if needed i can replace my buttons a little bit so that it feels a bit more centered in the middle of my top stitch maybe replace it replacing it again yeah seems good and i can add it at the top of my yoke so here and then here and then along my um center back line like that and i can also add it on the inseam of my back so from here and also here as you usually have in a pants pattern like that so it seems to be quite good i'm just missing here some double stitch like that too and i can also place some um stitch on the front as well here so here and then all the way down here and do the same on the other side here to all the way down here yes so we have it here um now so this is quite quite good i'm just missing one single stitch here for my fly so here i can place it so i'll go on to this here see maybe that's not the right line so here like that yeah and maybe as well right here around here so let me add some some stitch like that yes so now we have added all of those um single and um double stitch we can also add some bartek so i've added some placement for the bartek um as base line here so i need to trace them as internal lines so i'm just going to select all of those little lines here and it's also one here press enter and i'm going to create a new bar tag so i'm going to select this one n i will add a new one and i'm just going to call it one n bar tag and this one because i want to place it completely on the line i'm going to change the um i'm going to change the offset to just zero i'm also going to change the shape to bartek and i'm going to use the same uh um let's check the the different change a bit of the thread thickness and put about the same color that i already had so maybe i can just register this color so select this color click on add so it's here then i can move to my bar tag here and then change the color to the one i've added so i can then add my little bar tag so here to my segment top stitch so here i have a bar bar tag that has been added here as well on the side and here too so here you see them added i can also add some bartek usually you also have some on the belt loops at the top and the bottom depending on the style doesn't necessarily need to need to be but this time because i want it to be a little bit over this internal line i'm just going to select it and i'm going to create an offset i'll call it offset um 0.15 centimeter let's see if this one will work so here i say 0.15 so now let's try and it looks good like that so i i added for all of the bar types here and then here oops not here here and then here here and then here here and in here and i just forgot this one here like that yeah so now we have added all our bat bar tag and it seems that we have also added all of our top stitch oh maybe we can also add like if you really want to be working in a detail we can also add some topstitch around our pocket so maybe an overlock so i'll just select my one n here just copy it and i'm going to call it overlock overlock like this so i'm going to change the shape to overlock i'll make sure to change the color so it's the same as the other one like that and i will change the thread thickness so it's a little bit more thick to maybe 80 and now let's try to place it so i'm just going to because i just want to have a visual of the overlock i'm just going to place it around in the back here so i'll select my free sewing tool and i'll just place it like that so from here to here this is going to be good enough here and then from here to here like that and if in our case it has not been created let's see i like that over lock so here i can just drag and drop it and just make sure that i change the the shape and here change the number live to one let's see if this one wants to work yes it works and i'll just change the color again like that so yeah so now we have our overlock and we have our all of our top stitches maybe i can also just last last one add one here at the bottom um as you usually do have i'll take this one end and make a copy and just change the offset to maybe one centimeter one centimeter so here i'll select this one and then change the offset here to one and then yes and then go on all of my butt bottom hem and just add this add this top stitch here all right so once we've done that we are pretty much done with all of the constructions of our pants the last thing that you can do is then bring your pants to a high-res mode so by clicking on this little button which is the high-res garment button and you see that you'll be able to change the high-res properties of the the of the garments so change the particle distance to five the change the thickness collision to one and change the skin offset to zero and also we'll bring the simulation quality to fittings so just have to click on ok and yes and the last tiny bits that i want to do is also change the color of my buttonhole tiny detail that could be quite nice to have yeah like this and once you've changed the then that then you can simulate and just wait for your pants to [Music] figure its final drape so yeah so this is going to be it for this video um i will thank you a lot for watching um this is of course um just take a look at the construction of a denim um if you find on the glow website we already or the youtube page we already have a few videos that explain all of the different types of textures and washing effects for denim so feel free to check those videos out and you will be able to find the links of those videos in the youtube um the description of of this video so feel free to check those out to have a really complete and realistic uh look for your denim pens so again thanks for watching and see you in another video you
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Channel: CLO
Views: 44,657
Rating: undefined out of 5
Keywords: CLO3D, CLO, 3D, Virtual, Fashion
Id: qscn8bipxzA
Channel Id: undefined
Length: 84min 5sec (5045 seconds)
Published: Wed May 27 2020
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