Beginner's Guide to CLO Part 1 Foundations: Sewing (Lesson 6)

hi everyone this tutorial is all about sewing and Clos follow along using your own files or download the practice files from the close that link in the video description below let's get started the first Philemon is segment sewing segment sewing is used when you need to sew together two segments that are not interrupted by any points when you sew segments together they should either match or any excess will be distributed evenly you will not want to use segments sewing if you have ease that needs to be placed in a particular area the segment sewing tool is here it also exists in the 3d window here when you select a segment sewing in 2d it will automatically select it in 3d and vice versa to use this tool you simply left-click once on each segment that you want to sew together you will see as I hover over a line before clicking and highlights blue and there's a little ticking mark at the end of the line that I'm hovering near this is the important thing to pay attention to one segment sewing this ticking mark should correspond to the ticking mark on the segment you're sewing to these marks designate the start of the sewing as though you're running it through a machine and if they aren't on the same end as each other your sewing will be reversed or twisted you can see this in 3d with your sewing lines if something is twisted if you don't see sewing lines in the 3d window you can turn them on here in the vertical toggle menu now I'm going to sew together all the seams on my garment using segments sewing making sure the ticking marks are matching each other my pattern here is symmetric which you can tell by the blue outline around the pattern pieces this means my sewing will automatically be applied to each side and I don't need to sell both the left and the right you can check for sewing in the 3d window to make sure you didn't twist or miss anything lastly I just need to sew together my Center front and center back seams you can also use segments sewing in the 3d window as mentioned the tools select in each window and the function works exactly the same in 3d you'll get the ticking mark depending on where you click and it's just a single click on each scene I'm now in the free selling file if you'd like to follow along as you can see this pattern has extraneous segments points that don't allow me to simply sew segments a segment with even sewing I will need to use the free sewing tool to bypass these segment points free sewing is here in 2d and 3d the way free sewing works is left clicking to start and then you hover along the pattern edge do not click and drag i'm simply hovering my mouse in the direction i want to sell then you click to end you'll see you get a ticking mark just like you do with segment sewing depending on which direction you started from you should start in the same direction in the corresponding seam click to start hover down and click to end with free sewing you will see when you sew your second segment you get a little blue dot as a guide this dot tells you where to stop if you want your sewing to be equal to the first segment you sewed this will either let you know if and where you have ease or it will let you know where to stop in a situation where you might not have a segment point or notch to guide you free sewing can also be done in the 3d window it works very similarly to 2d you click to start and hover along the edge but instead of clicking to end in 3d you must double click to end as of 5.1 you will also get the blue dot in the 3d window to guide you with free sewing after you click to start the direction you hover your mouse will be the direction you so Clos will lock you into this even if you try to move the other way the direction is now locked and you will end up sewing around your entire pattern edge if this happens on your first segment controls your escape will take you back before you started sewing however if this happens on your second side if you press the Delete or backspace key on your keyboard it will take you back one step without deleting the first segment you sewed note my sweatshirt pocket where the top and side would be sewn to internal lines but the center front and bottom so to the pattern edge free sewing will not allow you to move from an internal line to a pattern edge so those edges will need to be sewn individually currently in five point one sewing will not snap to an internal line that meets a pattern edge so if I was concerned about making sure I sewed this exactly right on the body I would sell my Center front and bottom edges separately sewing my pocket first for reference and using my blue dot to snap my selling to with free sewing you also have the option to precision so in order to do this you click to start sewing hover in the direction you want to sew then right click when you right click you will get your precision box and you can enter the length of sewing you want then press ok or hit enter on your keyboard then you can sell your second segment and if you want them to match you can use your blue dot as a guide or you can right click again if the other segment should be a different length than the first if you made any mistakes along the way you can fix them with your edit sewing tool the Edit selling tool is the sewing machine with the cursor arrow beside it you may have noticed all tools and close that are used for editing are indicated with the little cursor arrow with edit sewing you can select any sewing and delete it with a backspace or delete key on your keyboard you can also right click and choose delete if you right click on a sewing relationship you can reverse the sewing if it is crossed or twisted the hotkey for this is ctrl or command B so you can simply select the sewing relationship and hit control B to reverse your sewing this is also useful in the moment if you see that you sewed something crossed you can hit control B immediately after sewing and you won't need to switch tools also with edit sewing you can select any sewing and drag to move it around if you select the sewing in the middle it will slide the sewing along the pattern edge if you select only a point at the end you can move that one point and change the sewing link if I only move one side of my seam you can see that the other side will just be gathered into the sewing that I adjusted if I also want to move the other side to match you'll see that you get the blue dot showing where to stop to match the sewing lengths if you go to select a sewing end point that butts up to another sewing relation ship you will get a drop-down menu this happens in Clos when you click on two things at once Clos is asking you which thing you're trying to select with sewing you can use the colors as a guide of which sewing relationship you want to click on you will also notice that since five point one sewing will snap to other sewing relationships so it makes it easy to but them up to each other without overlapping them the other options you have with edit sewing that are useful are right-clicking and adding a point at the start or end of the sewing in the case where I moved my sewing up and created a side slit I may want to mark the pattern where I did that so I could add a point you can also right click on a sewing relationship and merge that seam this is an option also available with the Edit pattern tool and I find most users access it there more often another option with edit sewing that is useful as you become more advanced in Clos is to deactivate the sewing the sewing will turn white and when you simulate in 3d it will be as if the sewing isn't there this is a temporary technique used for things like twisting part of the garment it's also worth noting that when you're on the Edit sewing tool you have similar options that you have with your main selection tools but they will only apply to the sewing for example I can marquee over areas and select multiple sewing relationships or I can use my command or control a and it will select all of my sewing lastly if I right-click on the sewing that I deactivated I can choose to activate it again I am in the 1 to M and M to end sewing file with both segments and free sewing you have the option to sew one thing to multiple things which it Clos we call one to M sewing in order to do this with segment sewing you will need one total segment that sews to multiple smaller segments you always need to sew the one segment first before sewing the multiples to it I still need to pay attention to my ticking mark in the case of 1/2 M it will dictate both the direction I sew each pattern and also the order I sew them in before I sew my body patterns I need to hold shift in order to sew the multiple patterns the process for 1/2 M is 2 so the first pattern press and hold shift then so the multiple patterns all while holding shift don't release shift until you're finished with all the sewing because I clicked with the ticking mark towards Center back on my bottom band I need to start sewing from Center back but if I make the ticking mark go to the right on all of my bottom body pieces you'll see that the sewing is matching up but each relationship is twisted if I do the same but sew from center front to Center back even though my ticking marks are correct the order of my sewing is the opposite and now my front body is selling to the back of my bottom band therefore with your ticking mark you need to pay attention to both the order in which you sell your multiple pieces as well as which end the ticking mark is on if you fail to press shift before you click on the second pattern your first pattern will simply sew to your second pattern if you accidentally release shift before you finish all of your pieces you're sowing relationships will be established with the pieces that you had sown before you released shift 1 to M free sowing is very similar but can be used when you don't have perfectly segmented pieces here we're going to sew our one sleeve cap too many armhole pieces you always sew the one piece first click to start and click to end on the sleeve cap and this will determine where to start and the direction you go on your armhole with 1/2 M you need to hold shift before you finish that first part of the second group or else it will recognize it as a one to one relationship I'm clicking to start and clicking to end on each piece and holding shift until I complete the entire armhole remember if you mess up one step in the process you can press Delete or backspace on your keyboard and start that step over without having to start everything from scratch the key here is that you continue to hold shift the entire time here I'm going to accidentally reverse one of my selling relationships you can see after you finish sewing each relationship becomes an individual color-coded relationship I can simply right click on that relationship and reverse it here I had every relationship selected so I need to actually click in the background to deselect them and make sure I right-click only on the relationship that I want to reverse the last sewing option is for sewing multiple patterns to multiple patterns which we call M to n or multiples to a variable this option exists with both free sewing and segment sewing when you click and hold the tool icon and choose m2n under the drop down menu note when you select these tools the icon image changes and you get text beside your cursor be mindful of this as it helps indicate that your in M to n sewing if you want to go back to regular sewing you'll need to click and hold the tool icon again and go back or use the hotkeys n for segment sewing em for free sewing we're going to start with M - n free sewing on the armhole the way this works is just like regular free sewing I need to sew across my sleeve cap in order clicking to start and clicking to end I don't need to hold shift I simply press ENTER on my keyboard after I complete the sleeve cap then when I move around the armhole I hit enter after I complete all of the armhole pieces you'll note I sewed in the same order and I paid attention to my ticking marks we're going to use M to end segment selling on the bottom band sewing it to the body this works the same exact way except that its segment sewing so I simply click on each segment and then hit enter when I finish the bottom band then I go in the same order making sure my ticking marks are on the same side and hit enter when I complete all of the body pieces the key to getting your ticking marks to line up is to start at one end and move to the other and make sure you're taking marks are on that end in my arm hole my taking marks will be on the side that I move from when you select selling with your edit selling tool it has its own properties in the property editor the first is the sewing line type by default in quo all sewing is set to this custom angle of 180 degrees which basically means flat if you think of a circle as being 360 degrees 180 is across the diameter in a flat line this means all seams are effectively pressed open like normal body seams on a garment if something is sewn to an internal line like a pocket Clos nose this sewing should not be pressed open and it will automatically turn the sewing here however occasionally you'll need to manually turn the sewing in the property editor if you see here I have a neck trim and an internal neck trim facing the top and bottom edges of these are still set to a 180 angle because they are the edge of the fabric and claw does not know to turn them you can see because of that my neck trim is really puffy and rounded if I select these two top and bottom sewing relationships and change them to turned in my property editor when I simulate that sewing will flatten out the most common time that you need to edit this sewing is for things like this where it is a facing piece and the sewing needs to be turned at the edge so things like a collar and an under collar a lapel facing a cuff and an undercut the next thing in the property editor that I want to point out is tension the default setting for tension is to be checked on at a strength of 0.1 and a ratio of 100 this is your seam tension basically everything in real life has seen tension even if it's a very stretchy knit sewn with an overlock or cover stitch machine the strength is the tightness of those stitches so the higher you go on this scale the more tension is applied you will see as I turn the strength up my seams start to hold tight and pull on my garment if I turn my fit maps on you're going to see more red appear when I simulate if you're doing a very stretchy knit and you're concerned that even this point one tension looks like it's holding or affecting your fit Maps you might uncheck seam tension entirely the ratio here is basically if the seam is eased in when sown or stretched out the default of course is 100 meaning it's neither stretch nor ease when sown you'll see if I turn this up above a hundred percent the seams become stretched out this becomes more intense the higher my strength is if I bring the ratio to less than a hundred my seams will shrink up and effectively be eased by the sewing this becomes much less significant when I bring the strength down to 0.1 however my suggestion would be to keep your strength at Point 1 and your ratio at 100 unless you feel the need to uncheck seam tension entirely with a knit the last setting and the selling properties is 3d seam line this is a normal map that is applied to all selling to make it look more three-dimensional it's essentially a shadow on the seam line if you change either the intensity or the thickness to 0 it will effectively turn this feature off the intensity setting is the same as the intensity on any normal map and you really should only have it at 10 or 0 essentially the more intense the value the stronger the map however going too high can create issues with shadows and rendering the thickness is the width of the normal map by default it is point zero five nine if I increase this number the line becomes thicker the most common use for 3d seam line is the default setting or turning it off by bringing one of the values down to zero you

Channel: CLO

Views: 51,324

Keywords: CLO3D, CLO, 3D, Virtual, Fashion

Id: owWiplmx88w

Length: 21min 41sec (1301 seconds)

Published: Tue Mar 03 2020