Making Pattern: Pattern Drafting (EN)

hi everyone i hope you're all well in this tutorial today i'm going to be showing you how to create a basic pattern in clothes 6.0 this video has been created for those who are unfamiliar with creating 2d patterns using the 2d tools within khloe it has also been designed for those who would like to gain some more knowledge on creating and editing patterns with inklow hopefully after watching this tutorial you'll be able to use most of the 2d functions in clo and start creating your own patterns so let's begin the pattern we'll be recreating today is based on the spec that i have prepared the specifications you can see on the screen are based on us standard size this pattern was created based on astm missy size 10 avatar therefore after importing the default avatar from the clo library we will adjust our avatar size to meet the size spec of our pattern for the pattern i will make the basic body according to the specifications shown here then i will put in the darts at the bust waist and shoulders and finally finish off with making the sleeves for the fabric we will be using the woven muslin found in the default hello library so let's begin with loading and adjusting our avatar to begin i go to the library and allocate the avatar folder click to open female v2 and then i double click on fifi and she will load within the 3d window as mentioned we are working on a u.s standard size 10 garmin spec therefore fifi as she currently is is too small to change this we go to the size folder in the avatar library and within here you will see several us standard size forms that we provide i will be using usastm missy curvy for this tutorial once in this folder you will see several sizes starting from 2 all the way to 20. now i will find my chosen size and double click on usastm missy curvy 10 to change the avatar size you will see your avatars change size in the 3d window according to the chosen avatar size now our avatar is ready to use the unit i will be using to create this pattern will be inches if your default unit is either centimeters or millimeters and you would like to follow along with me throughout the tutorial you can do so by changing your unit to do this you go to settings in the top of the toolbar then select user settings user interface and look for unit system here you can change to your unit of choice and then press close now going back to our size chart you will notice there are two charts one is total measurement of the size 10 pattern and the other is a half spec of the pattern the reason for the half spec pattern is that when we usually make a garment in clothes we either make symmetric copies of that pattern or we unfold the pattern therefore i only need to work with half the center front and center back for example if you look at the next width specification it says six inches is the total and three inches are half width as with the shoulder width the end to end point of the shoulder is 14 inches and the length from one shoulder point to the center back of the neck is 7 inches you can also see the same for the across front and back as well as a chest and waist width now let's add our muslin fabric go to the fabric folder in the library and search muslin there you will see four versions that you can select from if you cannot see this you may need to update your assets i will be using the muslin 22x22 to add to your workspace click and drag the fabric onto your default fabric within the object browser now we can begin creating a pattern using the 2d tools in chloe we will focus on the 2d window for our pattern creation i will not be using the 3d window therefore i can remove it from my screen by clicking on the 2d window icon in the lower right corner to create even more space on my screen i will also close my library either manually or using shortcut y to create the base of my pattern i will start by creating a rectangular shape to do this i will be using the rectangle tool shortcut s to determine the size of our rectangle we need to look at our size spec and check both the length of the widest and longest parts of our patterns first the chest is the longest part in width at 17.75 in length the longest measurement in height is the center back body length from hps measuring at 16.75 as we are only working on a half block we need to divide the chest width in half that will now give us a total width of 8.875 against a height of 16.75 the rectangle tool i will click once on my 2d window and a pop-up window will appear this will allow you to input the width and height measurements we can round up these lengths and 9 inches for the width and 17 inches for the height then press ok using the transform pattern tool shortcut a i can now pick up and move my pattern to sit on the center front line of the gray avatar changing to the edit pattern tool shortcut zed i will now make a guideline for the position of the neck width using the spec i can see my neck width is 6 inches therefore half of that is 3 inches i right click on my center front line and select offset as internal line a pop-up window will appear and i enter 3 inches under distance then press ok you will now see an internal line 3 inches from your center front line moving down the list we can now move on to shoulder width which has a half length of 7 inches repeating the same process i right click on the center front line select offset as internal line and input 7 inches and then press ok the next on our list is the back neck drop from hps measuring at 0.75 this time right click on the shoulder line go to offset as internal line and type in 0.75 inches and then press ok repeat the same process for the front neck drop and type in 3.25 inches next on the list is the shoulder slope with a measurement of 1.25 inches right click on the top shoulder line and select offset as internal line and input the measurement we will now draw the guideline for the across front and back from hps position as they are both 5 inches i will create the line once right click and then offset as internal line and input 5 inches then press ok i will now mark the position of the armhole drop from hps at back right click on the top line and offset as internal line this time type in 9.5 inches then press ok this will now become the chest width line repeat the same for the center back body length from hps input in a distance of 16.75 inches this will now become the waist width line using the add point split line tool shortcut x i will add a segment point to mark the position of the cross front and the across back right click once on the internal line and a pop-up window will appear here you can use the first option split into two lines then type the value of 6.625 inches for the half cross back repeat the same process for the half cross front measurement and input a measurement of 6.25 inches and then press ok i will now mark the position for the chest as well the armhole location is situated on the internal line that represents the chest width therefore i will look for the half measurement for the chest width at armhole which is 8.875 inches using the add point split line tool right click on the internal line and input the measurement lastly i will mark half the waist width at 6.875 inches go into the waistline right click on the segment line and input in the distance and then pressing ok now the markings are complete we can now draw the lines to connect these points with the internal polygon line tool shortcut g these lines will build the base of our pattern shape there's no need to add curves at this point we can start with the center back panel start it from the center back line and then connect to the center back neckline we can then continue on the shoulder and then down to the back width point and then to the chest point to build up the armhole then we will finish off at the waist point and double click to finish the line we will now repeat the same for our front body start at the center front neck point and then go up to the top neck point and double click to finish the line we do not need to continue as the shoulder line is already there i will do the same for the armhole click once at the start of the shoulder point then go to the across front and then double click to finish at the chest point now using the edit curvature tool shortcut c we can create the curved lines for the neck and armhole starting with the center back neckline i click and drag the internal line this will now change my line from a straight line to a curved line repeat the same for the center front neckline by clicking and dragging to create the desired curved shape do the same for the front and back armholes once you complete all the curves on your pattern you can now use the trace tool shortcut i to trace out the pattern once you have the trace tool selected start by selecting all the lines that build up the center back pattern by holding down shift when you have all the lines selected right click on the highlighted line and select trace as pattern from the menu you will get a ghost preview of your pattern and then you can left click and place your pattern within the 2d window repeat the same for the front buddhists once the front bodice has been created we need to flip the pattern to do so i changed the transform pattern tool shortcut a i right click on the center front body and select flip horizontally from the drop down menu using the z-edit pattern tool i can now delete all unnecessary internal lines to select multiple lines and points at the same time hold down shift i will delete parts of the front and back chest lines by selecting only the segment points once i have all my lines and points chosen i can select the backspace to delete them i will now bring back my 3d screen using the split view in the bottom right corner as i won't be using my pattern draft anymore i can move it out of the way by switching to the transform pattern tool shortcut a in the 3d window i right click on the pattern draft and select deactivate now we will need to tweak the pattern a little bit before we put in the darts looking at the avatar from the side view we can see where there's some additional space needed across the chest and stomach we will increase the front panel by 3 8 of an inch and then reduce the back in reverse going back to the 2d window i select the edit pattern tool shortcut z selecting the front side seam and left clicking and dragging whilst i drag i right click at the same time to get the dialog box from here i can input my distance moved of 0.375 and press ok do the same in reverse for the center back you can hold down shift to lock in your axis when looking at the patterns you can see there's a quarter inch distance at the waist compared to 1 8 at the across back go into the center back pattern you can see the center back internal line is not fixed therefore i will select the point using z edit pattern right click on that point and select extend trim and add point to pattern outline this will add a segment point to my pattern outline i will repeat the same for the chest line now i can reduce the across back line we still want to maintain the specification of our back panel so i will select the entire line using z edit pattern and move that line towards the center back line by 1 8 of an inch right click at the same time and input 0.125 into the distance move box then press ok now we need to move the waistline by one quarter inch select the waistline using the same tool and drag the line towards the side seam using shift to get your access keys and right clicking whilst you drag to get the pop-up window now you can input a distance moved or 0.25 and press ok the top of the center back line is quite straight so i will use the edit curvature tool to add a slight curve to my center back to create a more natural shape now we can move on to the shoulder line and ensure that it meets our spec right click on the center front shoulder line and select offset as internal line from here you can input 0.5 into the distance move to create the new internal line for the shoulder position with the new line selected right click on that line and select cut from the drop down menu to merge the shoulder lines i hold down shift and select both the center back shoulder line and the shoulder line of the newly cut center front piece i right click on one of the selected lines and select merge from the menu with the pieces merged you will notice there are two new segment points in a new dotted blue line in replacement of the original center back line because of this we will right click and change the segment points to curve points on the armhole and neckline to prevent any difficulties when editing the patterns later on we have now completed our basic block for the center front and center back panels we can move on to adding darts at the chest waist and shoulders to add a dart to our pattern we need the segment point on the pattern outline to determine the position of that darts based on our specification we have a dark position on the center front side seam two inches down from the armhole i will use the add point split line tool shortcut x to add the segment point right click on the center front side seam and a pop-up window will appear from here i can type 2 inches and press ok go back to the edit pattern tool and right click on this new segment point and select add dart from the menu based on the window you will see both the total width and the dark arm width the dart arm width is a width of half the dart compared to the total width which is the total dark width using the chart the bust start depth is one inch which is also half the dart width so i will enter one inch into the dark arm width making it a total of two inches for the bust start length i enter the value of 4.5 inches and press ok once you press ok you will see red curve points that will allow you to modify the pattern outline shape this will ensure a smooth fold on your dart i will now line up these curved points so that the side seam is straight press enter to complete as we took two inches out for the dart the size seam length has shortened to fix this and to ensure the center front and center back panels are the same i will add one inch to both the front armhole and the front side seam hem using the edit pattern tool zed i select the segment point at the armhole and left click and drag up i hold shift to lock in my axis keys and i right click at the same time to get the box here i enter a distance moved of 1 inch for the waistline i select the entire line hold shift and drag and right click to get the box i again enter 1 inch in here as well by doing this we will have a slight difference in the side seams for both the front and back panels but i will explain later how we can match that up when we arrange our pattern pieces now we will put in the waste start the same way we did the chest dots looking at the spec the position of the front waist star is three inches from the center front and the width of the dart is half an inch therefore i will place my segment point position 3.5 inches by adding those two numbers together using the add point split line tool shortcut x i right click on the waistline and input 3.5 inches and then press ok i then change to the edit pattern tool and right click on this new segment point and select add darts i will add the front waist start depth of 0.5 and the dark length of 5 inches then press ok now you need to ensure your curved points follow a smooth line to create a good dart fold then press enter once you're happy we can now move on to the center back waist up same as the front if you add 0.375 of the dart depth to 2.75 inches of the dark position it will create a total of 3.125 this will now become the position of our center-back segment point using the addpoint split line tool shortcut x i right click on the center back waistline and input a distance of 3.125 i then change to the edit pattern tool shortcut z right click on this new point and select add darts i then enter half the dart width of 0.375 inches and 5 inches for the dart length then press ok again i adjust the curve points to ensure a smooth line and once i'm happy i press enter by adding the dots we have reduced the waistline from the spec given of 13.75 inches to 11.982 inches therefore we need to edit our waist length a trick to do this is to use the calculator that can be found in the particle distance section of the property editor right click on the particle distance box and select calculator now i will do a calculation of 13.75 inches minus 11.982 inches this will give us a difference of 1.768 inches i then divide this measurement into two giving me a total of 0.884 inches and split this across the center front and center back panels selecting the center front waist segment point i left click and drag and right click to get the dialog box in here i put a measurement of 0.884 inches then press ok i repeat the same for the center back waist points now you can see the waistline length matches the spec of 13.75 inches we can now move on to adding the dart for the shoulder we will start by placing a segment point on the shoulder line to mark our dark position using the add point split line tool i right click on the shoulder line and this time i use uniform split to divide the line into two equal segments with the segment point in the center i can right click on this point and select add darts i can then input a value of 0.25 for the dark depth and 4 inches for the dark length now using the curve points i will modify the shape of the shoulder line so that it's straight and then press enter once i'm done to ensure the correct total length of the shoulder line i will increase the length of the shoulder slash armhole point by 0.5 inches to match the center front shoulder length select the shoulder point and this time hold down ctrl and drag towards the left right click at the same time and then input a value of 0.5 inches under distance moved then press ok now that the darts are done i will check the fit on the avatar now you can select the center front and center back pattern pieces right click on one of your pattern pieces and select symmetric pattern with sew-in or shortcut ctrl d with the ghost appearance of your patterns left-click in the 2d window to place your patterns try to keep a clean workspace by holding down shift to get your axis keys now we need the 3d window in order to arrange our pattern pieces around our avatar we also need to merge our center front so using the edit pattern tool i right click on the center front line and select merge to turn on my arrangement points i can use the shortcut control plus f or i can select the icon from the 3d toggle bar then to arrange my pattern pieces i select one of my center front pieces and then select an arrangement point that is most suitable i repeat the same for my center back panels i will adjust the center back panels using offset in the property editor to prevent any overlapping using the new 6.0 feature auto sewing i can sew the garment together locate the auto sewing tool in the 3d tool bar select the tool to start auto sewing auto sewing can be used on simple garments like t-shirts dresses and simple jackets it's always a good idea to review the sewing before simulation this looks good so i will press the spacebar and simulate now i can check the balance of the garment there seems to be a bit of an imbalance around the center back to rectify this let's firstly match the shoulder line of the avatar with the shoulder line of the garment use one of the tape measure tools to align the shoulders in the 3d tool bar allocate the surface tape measure tool once you select the tool you will notice line markings around your avatar use them to guide you to place the line across the shoulder start at the shoulder arm intersection and finish at the neck repeat the same for the other side now using the attach to measure tool you can attach the drawn measure line to the shoulder seam of the garment using the tool click once on the shoulder seam of the pattern and once on the tape measure line repeat the same for the other side and simulate you will now see the shoulder seam of the garment lines up with the shoulder tape line you can adjust the hem a little simulation on now the balance looks a lot better now we can take a look at our darts in order to see our darts a little bit better i will change my fabric view to an opaque surface using the 3d toggle bar or using the shortcut alt plus 4. starting with the buster i can see upon reviewing that the position of the dart end looks quite high and it's slightly too long therefore i can alter this using my pattern piece i will adjust the position according to the specification using the z-edit pattern i will select the dark point and lower it by 0.5 inches by moving the position like this you have altered the length of either side of the dart point and it will no longer fit once closed to fix this select both lines right click on the line and select shape dark cap using the curve point correct the side seam shape and to be as straight as possible press enter and now both lengths of the side dart will match the original spec of the dart length was 4.5 inches now it measures at 5.2 inches to edit this i will use the edit pattern tool shortcut set select the dark point and drag the point and right click at the same time in the pop-up window i will input the distance moved as 0.75 then press ok now simulate to see these changes and change your fabric view back to texture surface when checking from a side view the side seam seems to be raised a little bit as does the center back i will adjust both seams at the hemline so it sits straight in order to do this i will start by selecting both the center front and center back side seam point i will drag them down and adjust the length by quarter of an inch and then i will simulate to see these changes as the center back pattern pieces also have symmetry applied i will only change the position of one of the segment points moving to the center back panels i select one of the segment points and lower it by a quarter of an inch i will also adjust the hem dart positions by 1 8 of an inch so the hem has a more natural shape i will then simulate to see these changes since i have moved the dart position i will need to reshape the dart hem line select both dark lines right click and then select shape dark cap now adjust the line using the red curve points and press enter the hemline looks a lot better now to finish the bodice i will smoothen out some of the lines and add some notches the sensor front neckline looks quite angular so i will use the edit curvature tool shortcut c to smoothen the line to check the net curves from the shoulder line i will use the match up function select both the center front and center back shoulder lines nearest to the neck and then right click on one of them and select match up to start the patterns will match up like this and from here you can see if the net curves naturally if it does not use the edit curvature tool to fix it to do the same at the armholes match up the center front and center back shoulder seams at the armhole right click on both lines and select match up to start you can then use the edit curvature tool to adjust any curves to position the sensor front pattern again change the transform pattern tool shortcut a and select the center front bodice you can either use the rotation wheel to rotate your pattern piece or you can right click on your pattern piece and choose rotate x axis you can also check the armhole shaping at the side seam as well select both the center front and center back side seams right click on one of them and select match up to start then use the edit curvature tool to smoothen out your curves repeat the same process for the hem now we can start adding our notches beginning with the shoulders first check the length of the center back shoulder seam from the neck edge to the start of the darts select the notch tool from the 2d toolbar and then right click on the center front shoulder line ensuring you click on the side closest to the neck point a pop-up window will appear and here you can input the length you check from the center back shoulder now check the other side of the shoulder line the length of the center front shoulder line from the notch is 2.321 whereas on the center back shoulder length is 2.314 to fix this right click on the center back shoulder and select change length under length in the pop-up window you can input 2.321 to match the center front length now we can repeat the same process for the notches on the side seam now that we have finished our bodices we can move on to the sleeves to start making the sleeve i will use the rectangle tool shortcut s using the specification measurements we can see the widest measurement for the sleeve is 6.25 inches and the longest is 22 inches using the rectangle tool i will left-click in the 2d window and a pop-up window will appear here i can input the measurements i just read and then press ok i will now draw the sleeve cap height position using the edit pattern tool shortcut z right click on the top light and select offset as internal line in the pop-up window input 6 inches under distance changing to the add point split line tool i will mark the half sleeve opening position at 4 inches right click on the sleeve hem to get the pop-up window using g internal polygon line tool i will draw the base of my sleeve shape starting at the new hem segment point and double clicking at the sleeve head to finish using the add point split line tool i will position a central point on the sleeve head by selecting the uniform split changing to the edit pattern tool shortcut zed i will move the segment point out by a quarter of an inch whilst holding shift i can now use the edit curvature tools shortcut c in order to create the curves of my sleeve head now change into the trace tool shortcut i i can hold down shift and select all the lines that build up the shape of my sleeve pattern with all lines selected i can right click on one of them and select trace as pattern to unfold this leaf head use a z-edit pattern and right click on the center line and select unfold symmetric editing we're sewing select the sleeve headline and you will see that there are bezier handles that appear use them to smoothen out the curved shape of your armhole using the transform pattern tool right click on the pattern and select remove linked editing now change the z-edit pattern tool select all three segment points that build up the sleeve head and right click on one of them and select convert to curve point before marking the sleeve head and armhole notches first let's check the lengths are correct the sleeve head length is 18.35 inches and the armhole length is 18.277 inches so there's a difference of 0.08 inches as there's not much of a difference we will not bother changing the lengths we can now add our notches using the warp pattern tool which can be found in the 2d toolbar you will notice when trying to select the segment point at the corner of the sleeve with the walk pattern tool it doesn't recognize it that's because the tool recognizes only pattern outlines and in this case the internal segment point on top of the corner hides it underneath to fix this we will convert these active internal lines into inactive baselines using the z-edit pattern tool i can adjust the placement of some of my internal lines to ensure better positioning select the internal line and move it to the position you would like once you are happy with the placement of these lines select all the internal lines right click on one of the internal lines and select convert to baseline now all these lines are inactive using the warp pattern tool start by selecting the left point on your sleeve head and the lower point on your front armhole by moving your mouse you will be able to walk the sleeve head pattern if you right click on the line you will get a drop down menu of different options to add notches at intersections the first one walk patterns means the first pattern you had selected which would be the moving pattern the sleeve the second option stationary is the non-moving pattern the body and the final option both patterns as a notch to both the sleeve and the body we will choose the third option select both patterns i will then continue walking up my sleeve head ending at the shoulder seam a notch is needed only at the top of the sleeve head therefore from the drop down menu i will select warp pattern press enter to complete we can now repeat the same for the back lastly we will add notches to the inseam of the sleeve change into the notch tool in the 2d toolbar right click on the inseam of the sleeve and select uniform split to add a notch to the middle of the line repeat the same for the other side of the sleeve we can now reopen our 3d window by using the split view located in the bottom right corner of our screen move your sleeve pattern draft into a suitable location right click on it and select deactivate pattern now going back to the 2d window right click on your sleeve and select symmetric pattern with sewing ctrl d you can now arrange your pattern pieces using the arrangement points shift f if you would like to alter the position of your sleeves you can do so use an arrangement in the property editor as well once you have your pattern pieces arranged you can use auto sewing to sew the sleeves to the garment allocate the auto sewing tool in the 3d toolbar ensure you review the sewing before you simulate now we can change the avatar to a more natural position you can use the poses from the library however they might cause some collision at the underarm alternatively you can change her arm position manually using the x-ray joints shift x ensure simulation is turned on and click on the shoulder point a gizmo will appear and use the blue circle to rotate that joint if you select the small avatar hovering next to the gizmo this will enable editing symmetry on the avatar using the gizmo create the desired position for the shoulder joint on both sides of the avatar once you are happy with the position turn off the x-ray joints lastly we can remove the avatar tape select the edit measure avatar tool from the 3d window go to the tape at the shoulder select it and then press backspace to delete to see a more accurate drape and fit select the high res garment tool in the 3d toolbar and simulate stop simulation once you're done well done we have now completed our top basic pattern thank you for watching i hope you enjoyed this tutorial and don't forget to subscribe to our channel for more tips and tricks take care you

Channel: CLO

Views: 48,601

Keywords: CLO3D, CLO, 3D, Virtual, Fashion

Id: m4uUScYmY9Q

Length: 41min 6sec (2466 seconds)

Published: Mon Jan 18 2021