Hello creators, my name is Ann and in this 
video, I’m gonna show you how to make a realistic   waistband with an internal elastic tape. This 
method will work with any type of fabrics. Here   you can see how it looks in nylon, rayon jersey, 
double knit jersey, and leather. No matter how   thick the fabric, it'll look pretty realistic.
So let’s see how we can do this!  I’ll start with these simple patterns of 
shorts. I have a front, back, and waistband.   If you want to repeat my actions and practice on 
these shorts - you can download this project file. I left a link in the description.  I’ll try to mention every tool and 
button that I press during this tutorial,   but if I miss something you can 
see all the pressed buttons here. I highly recommend you to use shortcuts, 
because it speeds up the work significantly.  I’ve already sewn the pattern edges and arranged 
them around the avatar. This waistband has the   same length as the top edges on shorts. If I 
turn on the simulation - space bar - you can   see that the waistband is too big, so we need to 
add an elastic. There is a tool which is called   elastic and it's located in the property editor. 
If you select the line with Z - Edit Pattern Tool,   you’ll see an elastic option in the property 
editor. You can add it to internal or   outlines to make an elastic effect. But I 
don’t recommend you to add it to this pattern. It’s a way better to add a 
physical elastic, as a pattern.  Let’s focus on it and ignore this pattern for now. I will use it later as a top part of 
the waistband. Move it away and delete the sewing lines with B - Edit Sewing Tool, 
select it, and press CTRL+J to deactivate it. Now we need to define the width and the 
length for elastic and draft a pattern.   The width will be the same 
as on the top part - 5 cm.   The length you can get in a few ways. You can 
calculate it if you know the dimensions of the   avatar. Or you can draw a circumference line 
on the avatar and measure it. This line will   indicate where the waistband should be located 
and will give us the possibility to attach   elastic to this line to prevent the waistband from 
sliding up and down. So I’ll draw it for sure.
   Select the basic circumference tool in a 
3d window. And now I need to left-click 3   times to have a full line. I usually make 
the first click here on a dashed line, the second click on the opposite dashed line. 
You can hold the shift key to have a second   click on the same height as the first one, and 
the third one I’d like to have on a center back.   The measure will pop up. It is 68cm. If you 
don’t see it - select the Edit Measure Tool,   select the line - and it’s here.
We have the length and width, let’s make a   pattern for elastic. Press S - Rectangle Tool, and 
left-click in a 2d window, set the height to 5 cm   and the width to 68 divided by 2 - 34cm. We 
need only half because we will unfold it to   have symmetric editing. Press Ok. Then select the 
side edge, right-click - Unfold symmetric editing.  We have the elastic, now let’s place it on the 
avatar. Press Shift+F to show arrangement points.   Select elastic and locate it on a front center 
point. I want to have a seam on the center back.   Shift+F again to hide these points. Then sew it 
to the shorts. Press N - Segment Sewing Tool,   select the left part of the elastic, so the notch 
will be on the left, then press and hold SHIFT and   select back then front top edges on the shorts. 
Make sure that notches are on the same side.   As we have symmetric editing we need to sew 
only one half of the elastic to the shorts. Symmetric sewing lines will 
be added automatically. Sew   a center back seam as well and simulate.  Looks good but the elastic is too stretchy. 
It’s not so visible at the moment, because the Particle Distance of this pattern 
is 20, which is big. Reduce it from 20   to 5 and you will see that. Select elastic, 
go to property editor, and reduce it here.   Now you can see that it scratches on the bottom 
edge. We need to pick a stiffer fabric. I usually   choose Trim Hardware for that. Yeah, it sounds 
like it isn’t made for elastics, but who cares,   it is 3D, not real manufacturing. I’ll add a new 
material in the object browser, select it and go   to the very end of the property editor - physical 
properties. Change the preset to Trim Hardware. If you click on details you will 
see all the physical properties.   High values of stretching 
prevent it from stretching,   high bending makes it stiffer. Let’s 
apply this fabric. Drag and drop it. And here you can see the difference.  You can notice a gap between elastic 
and the body. To remove it you need   to change the skin offset of the avatar. 
The avatars by default have a 3 mm offset which means the distance between the 
avatar and clothes. Select the avatar   and you can see the offset value in the 
property editor. Change it to 0. Here we go.  Then I want to stick my elastic to the line that 
I drew before. Select Attach Measure Tool here Click on the one half of the 
top edge, then on the line,   then on the other half, and on the line again. Now it sticks to this line and 
doesn’t move which is great. However small bumps appeared
on the sides. You can pull the fabric down   to flatten them. Don’t worry about it so much, 
when we sew the top and inner part to elastic   it will flatten automatically. If you don’t 
like it anyways you can change the physical   properties of elastic and increase the 
stretching and bending values as you like.  It’s time to bring the top part back. 
Select and activate it with CTRL+J.   Then sew it to the elastic with a Segment 
Sewing Tool. Press N and sew top to top,   bottom to bottom edges. Select it in the 
3d window, right-click - Superimpose over   to place it over elastic according to the sewing 
lines. Then Set a sublayer to avoid a collision.   This tool defines which pattern should 
be located on top or underneath the other so during the simulation, they 
will not penetrate each other.   Select this tool in the 2d pattern window. Select the top pattern, then elastic. In our case, 
the top pattern will be on top of the elastic.  Now let’s add internal lines to make 
stitching. Select top edges on both patterns,   right-click, Offset as the internal line. In this window, you can choose the location
of internal lines and their quantity. I want to have 2 lines so 
I change the number here.  And I want to have them at a distance of about 1.5 or even 1.6 cm. Check the reverse direction
if your lines are going in the opposite direction. Click Ok and sew these internal 
lines together and Simulate. Partical Distance 10 is quite big for the to part 
so you need to decrease it to see a gathering.   Select it and change PD to 5 for now. Later we 
will need to decrease it to 1 or 2 to get more   realistic wrinkles. Also, decrease the Thickness 
collision for both patterns to 1 or even 0.5. This   value indicates how big the distance should be 
between patterns to avoid collision between them. 2.5mm is quite big for this waistband, these 
patterns should be located closer to each other.   Otherwise, we see a kind of puffy effect.
So I feel pretty good with 0.5 mm. Here is the difference.  Now let’s add an inner part 
to cover the elastic inside. I will hide the avatar, SHIFT+A. We need to add an   inner part here and I want it 
to be the same as a top part. So select the top part,
copy it with CTRL+C, and paste with CTRL+V. Sew all edges to elastic accordingly. 
Top to top, internals, and bottom edges.   Then select it, right-click in a 3d window - 
Superimpose under to locate it under elastic.   An important thing is to flip the face for the 
inner part. You can notice it has a black color.   If you don’t - switch to the 
Texture Surface mode here.   This black color means that we see the 
wrong side of the fabric at the moment.   White is the right side, black - is wrong. 
If you don’t flip it you’ll probably get   problems with seams fold angles, and with 
texturing. Right-click on it - flip normals. Also, Set a sublayer for this part.
Click on an elastic first, then on the inner part, and change + to - 
because we flipped normals. And Simulate.  Now it’s time to adjust fold angles a bit.   We have 180 degrees fold angles 
on all plain seams by default. You can see it in the property editor if you 
select the sewing line with B, Edit Sewing Tool.  It means that pieces that are sewn together 
are located at 180 degrees angle to each other.   You can change it as you want, but usually, 
this default angle works great with pieces that   are located next to each other like these ones. 
Sometimes it’s better to decrease or increase it   when one piece is located on top of 
the other, like on the waistband. This angle also depends on the fabric that 
you use, type of simulation - GPU or CPU, so it’s better to change 
it depending on your needs. I want to decrease the fold angle for these
bottom edge seams,  for example to 30. Here we go. Also, I want to 
flatten the top seam a bit.   I’ll do it only on the top edge 
of the inner part 30 as well. One more thing - delete the normal map for
the top seam so it looks like a fold. In my previous video about 
the neckband, I told that  all of the seams that we see in a 3D window are actually small bumps 
created by normal map textures.  You can adjust or delete them. Select Top seams with B - Edit Sewing 
Tool, go to the property editor, and set intensity and thickness of the normal 
map to 0, do not delete it with this button, because it will appear again after 
restarting the program. Set the values to 0.  Now it’s almost finished. If you 
don’t like this curved line and   want to have a straight-looking elastic you 
can detach it from the circumference line.  Hide top and inner parts with SHIFT+Q, select 
them and hide. Then select Attach To Measure tool,   click on the one half of the top edge, press 
DELETE, on the other - DELETE. Simulate. And bring back top and inner parts with SHIFT+Q
and the avatar with SHIFT+A. And now you can move it. If you want to have the
top edge a little bit closer to the skin you can add an elastic option to the top 
edge of elastic. I mentioned this option   at the beginning. Select the edge and 
check Elastic in the Property editor.   100 - is an actual unstretched length. You can 
make it smaller, 95 for example, it depends on the   physical properties of your fabric and your needs.
In the end - decrease PD one more time.   This time to 2. And that’s pretty it. I guess I 
told you everything that I know about waistbands.   Hope that it was useful for you. Wish you all 
the best and see you in the next videos! Bye.