How to make Elastic Waistband in Clo3D and Marvelous Designer

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Hello creators, my name is Ann and in this  video, I’m gonna show you how to make a realistic   waistband with an internal elastic tape. This  method will work with any type of fabrics. Here   you can see how it looks in nylon, rayon jersey,  double knit jersey, and leather. No matter how   thick the fabric, it'll look pretty realistic. So let’s see how we can do this!  I’ll start with these simple patterns of  shorts. I have a front, back, and waistband.   If you want to repeat my actions and practice on  these shorts - you can download this project file. I left a link in the description.  I’ll try to mention every tool and  button that I press during this tutorial,   but if I miss something you can  see all the pressed buttons here. I highly recommend you to use shortcuts,  because it speeds up the work significantly.  I’ve already sewn the pattern edges and arranged  them around the avatar. This waistband has the   same length as the top edges on shorts. If I  turn on the simulation - space bar - you can   see that the waistband is too big, so we need to  add an elastic. There is a tool which is called   elastic and it's located in the property editor.  If you select the line with Z - Edit Pattern Tool,   you’ll see an elastic option in the property  editor. You can add it to internal or   outlines to make an elastic effect. But I  don’t recommend you to add it to this pattern. It’s a way better to add a  physical elastic, as a pattern.  Let’s focus on it and ignore this pattern for now. I will use it later as a top part of  the waistband. Move it away and delete the sewing lines with B - Edit Sewing Tool,  select it, and press CTRL+J to deactivate it. Now we need to define the width and the  length for elastic and draft a pattern.   The width will be the same  as on the top part - 5 cm.   The length you can get in a few ways. You can  calculate it if you know the dimensions of the   avatar. Or you can draw a circumference line  on the avatar and measure it. This line will   indicate where the waistband should be located  and will give us the possibility to attach   elastic to this line to prevent the waistband from  sliding up and down. So I’ll draw it for sure.   Select the basic circumference tool in a  3d window. And now I need to left-click 3   times to have a full line. I usually make  the first click here on a dashed line, the second click on the opposite dashed line.  You can hold the shift key to have a second   click on the same height as the first one, and  the third one I’d like to have on a center back.   The measure will pop up. It is 68cm. If you  don’t see it - select the Edit Measure Tool,   select the line - and it’s here. We have the length and width, let’s make a   pattern for elastic. Press S - Rectangle Tool, and  left-click in a 2d window, set the height to 5 cm   and the width to 68 divided by 2 - 34cm. We  need only half because we will unfold it to   have symmetric editing. Press Ok. Then select the  side edge, right-click - Unfold symmetric editing.  We have the elastic, now let’s place it on the  avatar. Press Shift+F to show arrangement points.   Select elastic and locate it on a front center  point. I want to have a seam on the center back.   Shift+F again to hide these points. Then sew it  to the shorts. Press N - Segment Sewing Tool,   select the left part of the elastic, so the notch  will be on the left, then press and hold SHIFT and   select back then front top edges on the shorts.  Make sure that notches are on the same side.   As we have symmetric editing we need to sew  only one half of the elastic to the shorts. Symmetric sewing lines will  be added automatically. Sew   a center back seam as well and simulate.  Looks good but the elastic is too stretchy.  It’s not so visible at the moment, because the Particle Distance of this pattern  is 20, which is big. Reduce it from 20   to 5 and you will see that. Select elastic,  go to property editor, and reduce it here.   Now you can see that it scratches on the bottom  edge. We need to pick a stiffer fabric. I usually   choose Trim Hardware for that. Yeah, it sounds  like it isn’t made for elastics, but who cares,   it is 3D, not real manufacturing. I’ll add a new  material in the object browser, select it and go   to the very end of the property editor - physical  properties. Change the preset to Trim Hardware. If you click on details you will  see all the physical properties.   High values of stretching  prevent it from stretching,   high bending makes it stiffer. Let’s  apply this fabric. Drag and drop it. And here you can see the difference.  You can notice a gap between elastic  and the body. To remove it you need   to change the skin offset of the avatar.  The avatars by default have a 3 mm offset which means the distance between the  avatar and clothes. Select the avatar   and you can see the offset value in the  property editor. Change it to 0. Here we go.  Then I want to stick my elastic to the line that  I drew before. Select Attach Measure Tool here Click on the one half of the  top edge, then on the line,   then on the other half, and on the line again. Now it sticks to this line and  doesn’t move which is great. However small bumps appeared on the sides. You can pull the fabric down   to flatten them. Don’t worry about it so much,  when we sew the top and inner part to elastic   it will flatten automatically. If you don’t  like it anyways you can change the physical   properties of elastic and increase the  stretching and bending values as you like.  It’s time to bring the top part back.  Select and activate it with CTRL+J.   Then sew it to the elastic with a Segment  Sewing Tool. Press N and sew top to top,   bottom to bottom edges. Select it in the  3d window, right-click - Superimpose over   to place it over elastic according to the sewing  lines. Then Set a sublayer to avoid a collision.   This tool defines which pattern should  be located on top or underneath the other so during the simulation, they  will not penetrate each other.   Select this tool in the 2d pattern window. Select the top pattern, then elastic. In our case,  the top pattern will be on top of the elastic.  Now let’s add internal lines to make  stitching. Select top edges on both patterns,   right-click, Offset as the internal line. In this window, you can choose the location of internal lines and their quantity. I want to have 2 lines so  I change the number here.  And I want to have them at a distance of about 1.5 or even 1.6 cm. Check the reverse direction if your lines are going in the opposite direction. Click Ok and sew these internal  lines together and Simulate. Partical Distance 10 is quite big for the to part  so you need to decrease it to see a gathering.   Select it and change PD to 5 for now. Later we  will need to decrease it to 1 or 2 to get more   realistic wrinkles. Also, decrease the Thickness  collision for both patterns to 1 or even 0.5. This   value indicates how big the distance should be  between patterns to avoid collision between them. 2.5mm is quite big for this waistband, these  patterns should be located closer to each other.   Otherwise, we see a kind of puffy effect. So I feel pretty good with 0.5 mm. Here is the difference.  Now let’s add an inner part  to cover the elastic inside. I will hide the avatar, SHIFT+A. We need to add an   inner part here and I want it  to be the same as a top part. So select the top part, copy it with CTRL+C, and paste with CTRL+V. Sew all edges to elastic accordingly.  Top to top, internals, and bottom edges.   Then select it, right-click in a 3d window -  Superimpose under to locate it under elastic.   An important thing is to flip the face for the  inner part. You can notice it has a black color.   If you don’t - switch to the  Texture Surface mode here.   This black color means that we see the  wrong side of the fabric at the moment.   White is the right side, black - is wrong.  If you don’t flip it you’ll probably get   problems with seams fold angles, and with  texturing. Right-click on it - flip normals. Also, Set a sublayer for this part. Click on an elastic first, then on the inner part, and change + to -  because we flipped normals. And Simulate.  Now it’s time to adjust fold angles a bit.   We have 180 degrees fold angles  on all plain seams by default. You can see it in the property editor if you  select the sewing line with B, Edit Sewing Tool.  It means that pieces that are sewn together  are located at 180 degrees angle to each other.   You can change it as you want, but usually,  this default angle works great with pieces that   are located next to each other like these ones.  Sometimes it’s better to decrease or increase it   when one piece is located on top of  the other, like on the waistband. This angle also depends on the fabric that  you use, type of simulation - GPU or CPU, so it’s better to change  it depending on your needs. I want to decrease the fold angle for these bottom edge seams,  for example to 30. Here we go. Also, I want to  flatten the top seam a bit.   I’ll do it only on the top edge  of the inner part 30 as well. One more thing - delete the normal map for the top seam so it looks like a fold. In my previous video about  the neckband, I told that  all of the seams that we see in a 3D window are actually small bumps  created by normal map textures.  You can adjust or delete them. Select Top seams with B - Edit Sewing  Tool, go to the property editor, and set intensity and thickness of the normal  map to 0, do not delete it with this button, because it will appear again after  restarting the program. Set the values to 0.  Now it’s almost finished. If you  don’t like this curved line and   want to have a straight-looking elastic you  can detach it from the circumference line.  Hide top and inner parts with SHIFT+Q, select  them and hide. Then select Attach To Measure tool,   click on the one half of the top edge, press  DELETE, on the other - DELETE. Simulate. And bring back top and inner parts with SHIFT+Q and the avatar with SHIFT+A. And now you can move it. If you want to have the top edge a little bit closer to the skin you can add an elastic option to the top  edge of elastic. I mentioned this option   at the beginning. Select the edge and  check Elastic in the Property editor.   100 - is an actual unstretched length. You can  make it smaller, 95 for example, it depends on the   physical properties of your fabric and your needs. In the end - decrease PD one more time.   This time to 2. And that’s pretty it. I guess I  told you everything that I know about waistbands.   Hope that it was useful for you. Wish you all  the best and see you in the next videos! Bye.
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Channel: My Dress Patterns
Views: 10,472
Rating: undefined out of 5
Keywords: clo, clo3d, clo3d tutorial, marvelous designer, marvelous, designer, md, tutorial, 3d, 3d modeling, 3d design, 3d fashion, digital fashion, virtual fashion, fashion, fashion design, clo3d уроки для начинающих, clo3d waistband
Id: 7rNP31TYjkQ
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Length: 11min 21sec (681 seconds)
Published: Thu Oct 07 2021
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