Ender 5 Plus Ultimate Upgrade! BIGTREETECH 32bit 1.4 SKR TURBO & BIGTREETECH TFT35 V3.0

[Music] hey welcome back to tripods - Raj yes Vander five plus she is a loud one and people have been trying to silence her throughout all of YouTube and with what oh the 8-bit reality silent board yes 8-bit man when I think about 8-bit I think about the third generation of gaming consoles and what's the third generation of gaming consoles that's like that the Nintendo Entertainment System the NES with Robby darou about the sing a Master System and let's not forget about that Terry 7800 man those were epic times but that was over 30 years ago and this is gaming yeah I know it's a difference between printing but when I think a bit that's why I think about 8-bit I'm not gonna replace that 8-bit when you do a silent board and with an 8-bit and then replace it again not me I spend my own money on this stuff so you know I always want to first people to bring you a power supply issue swapping out the old crappy one what they mean well so and now that's all about you - everyone's doing it so now I'm taking the next level for this as well so I'm not going to replace it with an 8-bit board sorry why I'm gonna do this is an A to Z upgrade basically by the time I'm done with the internals on this electronics box the only things gonna be left original list of wires so power wires that's it so what I'm gonna do eight is the upgrade on the inside so it's gonna be a very long video I can apologize ahead of time but there's gonna be timestamps links to parts that you're gonna need to print out and everything within there so what do I have I purchased a 32-bit yes 32-bit big tree tech SKR 1.4 turbo yes it's a turbo everyone wants that little extra boost got to 2:08 stepper drivers and hate to do it where they interview a bunny or replace and display on this you know so fall to Crayola t but we've been waiting for the source code for a long time the world is in different times right now and there's delays on everything so I only wish them the but we've been waiting for a source code for a while and it's just time to upgrade this play now - so I'm upgrading the display to the big tree tech 3.5 inch version 3.0 it's got the dual mode so it's got the classic Marlin with the clicky thumb wheel and satisfy my needs a touch screen so best of both worlds you're going to need to print out two parts one is for the SKR board and one is for the display to mount them within the assessing electronics box if you're not going to use it then you don't need to worry about it and there's gonna be some carnage what's the tripods garage without some carnage right we're gonna hack apart this case a little bit with a dremel open up some ports I got you know there's gonna be need to have an SD card extender you can possibly do that with the other part reports as well biowing purchased one because I knew this one was going to be needed so again a to z upgrade hope you're following along right so next is a Marlin cafe you know I think down with Maryland buy and still absolutely a new when it comes to Marlin so I did find something that might intrigue you on how to make you a little bit easier my source code is gonna be on github by time this video airs so you'll be able to just download and install the firmware herself play from while watch along I'm gonna show you that step-by-step how to configure it and then yes we're still not done yet we're gonna do a firmware upgrade to the TFT display so there's two GUI modes that you can do as well is you know we're going to upgrade our logos on there make it a little bit more unique yes the video is still going then we're gonna do some test prints so before and after see what it's like and the final thoughts on to upgrade and I really appreciate you sticking along with this so if you could please hit that subscribe button that would be great and hit that Bell notifications so you get you know all the notifications about when tripods garage releases a awesome video and hit that like button and please comment below I'm not too expert in this field I'm just aaron show tinkerer showing what I do that's all I do right ever shoot a career with one leg a little bit more unique than that so hey you know what let's go ahead and see I have and get going alright let's go over to board that I got this is the big tree tech sk r v 1.4 it's the turbo edition so the turbo is basically has the only difference between the turbo london on turbo non turbo is 100 megahertz processor the turbo has 120 you know i really wants that extra boost here we have a price of 2142 but was it we look at this it doesn't have any drivers on here in it rehear it there's no drivers on here either as I mentioned before I am going with the TMC to 2:08 version 3.0 UART so let's add that to the cart all right now we're if 4132 let's see what we have for create Wow sold out again very popular item I guess people really want these things to be quiet and it's $55 and can you upgrade nope and all these are soldered on look you're also missing one right here so yeah so much for adding maybe an extra something or another all right let's go back to the board here again it's 41 32 compared to $55 so what do we get here well we get in a instructional video that you may want to look at doesn't really cover that much because it's not really close up some shots of the wiring but right here you know you got your specifications and does you all basically everything you need to know right on this one site that is great and here you have your basic while your pin outs and there's your bill touch right here so let's so you saying to yourself well how I know to go from where to where well th 3d has a nice little diagram here on the upgrade so but the only thing I noticed that's not in here is where the peel touches but I'll show you how to wire that up and actually two of the pins are reversed on there so we had to make sure that we have our all pins in the right spots oh yeah it's why people want to you could take a screenshot on this or visit their sites I'll have that in the description as well but we go back here now you can now we basically just go oh and you'll put this earring I put that there buh-buh-bah we scroll down underneath the board everything is labeled just like this you know so you don't have to worry about well which pin is where well if you you know it says five old ground or 1.2 whatever you know this is for the X stop right here that's actually under the board now we scroll down here just tells you what's a motor drivers if it has a Wi-Fi module we won't be covering that today I didn't get that remember I purchased all this stuff on my own I don't wait for people to send me stuff you know here's again the only difference is is the processor or the 1.4 and 1.4 turbo now we can just scroll down more it's just going through everything that we're not going to be doing RGB lights on ours not yet so talking about the to ministers dual Z's that's also why I got this I'm not going to be running a nice blurs so and yeah so again so this is what's going to be very important is your driver mode here I have the the TMC to 2-0 eights and I'm going to be using this mode so I'm going to remove all these jumpers that come in here right I'm only gonna we don't put them right here and you'll see me as I wire it up I will be taking out these jumpers so yeah it's a very self-explanatory and here's the bottom again like I said it it shows all the other pin layouts it what they do very well designed and especially for the price so let's scroll back up now want to add one more thing to the cart I mentioned before that I got I'm it says without display well we are going to add a display and there it is we're going to get the TFT 35 III version 3.0 and we're at 62 96 what was the price again for this fifty-five dollars yeah I think this is more of a win-win every time I look at it so what's in this display you ask well this is a dual mode display which is you know you may have seen it on youtube videos before it is a really you know you could have the LCD one to eight six four simulator or you could have the touchscreen so if you're a fan of the click wheel knob and and you know you want to dabble in the touchscreen or both and you know it's you have that option with this you know it's got some other features on here you got another instructional video it's very short but you know you got the github for it where you could change the interface icons around a little bit update the firmware on it so you could yeah it's kind of nice uh layout here you know you got your some UART connectors you got two SD card slot flash USB flash drive port and a Wi-Fi module on here I won't be able to fit the Wi-Fi module if I choose on the layout of the under five plus because it kind of gets in the way of the chassis if I remember right could be wrong though and again look at this cannot school or you know where everything goes it's so nice so and everything is just plug and play for this it's really really nice they just it's nice having things that are meant to work for each other so and so when we wire this we're going to be wiring the both we're gonna have the the old classic style as people want to call it or you know which is LCD one two eight six four simulator and we're gonna be getting rid of that with the flash update and you know and then you got the nice touch screen I'm still a very I love touch screen so that's just me and we are going to be extending this we're gonna get a USB or sorry memory card expander so we could go outside the chassis so yeah so we go to the github you this is where you can go ahead and do your air formal firmware updates on it all right so now now let's start with some assembly we output these heat sinks on you just peel off the film and stick on these heat sinks we're gonna do this to all five of them it was a kid of five you know how I'm only gonna be using four steppers no we're gonna pull out all the pins except for the one the one second from the bottom just like in the picture so we could just leave those in god bless of these pins anyone want to buy some but if you see they're all the way across second from the bottom now we're going to insert these steppers they're color-coded black and red easy enough if you watched my video that I did for replacing the power supply I didn't I'm not a fan of trained printers on their sites so just remove the four bolts take it out laying on its back pretty easy enough take out six screws take pictures as a reference and let's start taking everything out I'm gonna just start unplugging things this is gonna be a step by step wired to wire from one board to another guide it's just a lot of stuff going on and plus it would make this video about two hours long and I feel that you wouldn't want to pay attention to all that anyways so I'm just removing the screws from the board and I'm using a razor knife to score two hot glue I at least on this board man it felt like they put a lot of it on here I mean you know especially this and stop here it was just Kate someone really did not want these panels these connectors coming off so just be very careful and it'll come off now with these end-stopped ends or connectors you can just need to trim off one of these little notches here for it to fit otherwise you will not be able to get it in place so you just trim off one and then you'll be able to snap it right to the board all right so now we're going to be using one of the two printed parts right now this is for the circuit board the of course the Thingiverse files in the description so again you want to make sure you print out the two parts I've noted here ahead of time so that way you can have them ready for this face otherwise you're gonna have to maybe put something like a rubber mat or Neath here to print or hang it off its side or something so I'm only gonna put in two screws for right now I will put the other two in later because I'm gonna be removing this to do some cleanup work [Music] you can see how nicely this board lays right on top of its perfect fit but you do see that the USB and the SD card is right against the edge now we're going to just go ahead and continue with some wiring I'm just going to go do this in time-lapse because at the end of this part I will show you all the connections and where they go [Music] we remove this display maybe I can sell it on eBay for a few pennies here is my diagram here top is the nozzle fan and the part fan they're color coded there so make sure you get it right towards the bottom you'll see the two arrows pointing down make sure that you have your both your end stops it's all the way to the left for those two pins otherwise it won't work and then make sure your lower left the bed the nozzles are the correct spots to hear it's BL touch these are the correct than this is a correct wiring you want to make sure that in the TFT display like reality had a couple of the pins reversed within there so you'll see that now they're in order here we know sent for some case modifications you want to make sure you remove the SD card first as we're gonna do this and it's secure to board down before we trace this this is why we temporarily put this in place so we're gonna take you this little flathead screwdriver that came with our reality and we're gonna square along the SD card we're gonna basically outline it you know you can try to use a marker and stuff I just found a little bit easier to scratch it and we're gonna scratch along the USB as well and then we're gonna take a dremel to it yes case modifications who's up for it I know I am so let's get going and we move the board off to the side and you see that marks are in place yes great to see and make sure you wear your safety glasses with this now we're at Louisiana and I for this I preferred using a dremel it cuts a little bit faster than a hacksaw but maybe I should be in the trail for that for the USB port didn't turn out as well as I thought it would I am using the plastic attic bag that came with the board to protect it and before it's all said and done I'm gonna take a air hose to this or just take canned air pull everything out and it's a little hot yes a little hot John Doe I'm trying to get it out that fast but I'm not that patient sometimes just like other people know now I'm going to clean up a mess here I'm gonna use some compressed air and just blow it out and I go relocate this ground pin before i hook up everything figure this is a good suitable spot since it's no longer gonna be underneath the display so please make sure that you hook up to ground pin now we're gonna go ahead and just wire up display we're gonna do the exp 1 & 2 & LCD pins and power up and let's see if everything works now we're going to download some software now we need some software to configure a moral item so we're gonna download Visual Studio code I will provide the URL for this in the description below but we're going to just go ahead and download it I'm warning windows so it's also available for Mac so we're and go ahead and run this and save it run it whatever and we're going to install it once a visual studio code is installed we're going to do a search for a platform IO IDE could just type it up in the search and find it and then you're gonna click on the little green install it's gonna take a few minutes for it to install once it's done you will be asked to most likely close out the app and reopen it for it to work but now we're going to be on our search for our Marland configuration so our special Marland source after this is all done so you might be asking yourself hey how are we gonna get firmware onto this board johner you have been going the route of you know marlin just going to the website W Marlin and doing configure well I started that process but then I was on Creole DS uh Facebook page and I stumbled across something it's called k3d calm and they were talking about a custom firmware that uses marlin the most current version marlin and it's meant for certain printers so right here is their site and you know k3d and we're gonna go to firmware and we're gonna go on to what's called cheetah 5.0 well what is cheetah 5.0 basically it's a custom wrapped firmware for available for a lot of printers are out there and right here you can see that well our board and its beta but it's it works trust me that's it has our board on there and it has our printer well at least the board I'm using in the printer I'm upgrading that is great news so you know we scroll through in here and you know it tells us about the you know having a Version three bill touch and you know a whole bunch of awesome things on here you know you could customize hot ends and everything here you have submission you know the downloads of course we're gonna go to github don't trust this source but we'll just keep that between me and you but you have instructions view instructions twice but I don't know why that's on there twice but anyways so if we go to the download right here we could just go ahead and do it download and I'll go ahead and download this and we'll get going now we're gonna open up PS code and then we're gonna open up our project so we're gonna just click on the drop down here and click on open before it to open here and then we're gonna click on an open project this is how we're gonna open up the Marlin Cheeta Marlin to be exact so we're gonna just drill through and we're gonna look for a specific folder so we're gonna go into we're going here Marlin Marlin cheetah 5.0 and then ctrl down then they're drill down one more time Jo 2x and then we're gonna look for that platform IO right there so and then when we click on open Marlin so now we're going to click right there as untitled and we're gonna expand the Marlin 2x to 0 X and then we're gonna bring this down a little bit so I can see more of this menu and then here we go let's get going alright now that we know how to load up Marlon now it's time to start configuring cheetah so in here we're going to be opening up five files we're gonna be opening up pens BBT sk r version 1.4 and when i click on it you'll notice that the menu changes over here it tells you where it's at it's under pins and sk r v underscore or b1 underscore for we open up configuration h boards that def printers not deaf and configuration advanced now for the sake of speeding this along as fast as possible the printer is actually working i've already done all the work of going through these files and this is why I'm having you open them up as of right now if you feel like finally long great if not I understand if you want to just say hey John where's the the firmware file I just want to do it this way and skip all this stuff that's we you know you have to go towards the end of this this part and I will show you where that that file resides so in the sake of getting this moving as fast as possible I have my line items listed out in front of me and we're going to just go through this as fast as possible I'll comment with what I you know seemed important otherwise I would just say this is the lines we need to change we're gonna start with line 76 and the configuration H so this is the setup wizard like I said this is meant for lots of different boards and we already defined this way I mean by defined I got rid of the slashes so when I say that already done it that means I already did this so now that we can head out awake this is for the you know SKR version 1.4 turbo now we're going to go down to line one zero nine this is for because I have the full graphics display so the and this was compatible for it so now we're going to scroll down to 120 these are the driver types that I have I have the TMC two two zero eight already added those in and if you have different drivers this is what you'll need to do again I am doing the two two zero nine and that's what this tutorial is for is the TMC two two zero eight I'm sorry I have the two two zero eight and that's what this tutorial is for so I have the X to the Y to Z and to eat look again this is for it under five plus so now that those are all done we're going to go down to line 139 this is where we define our printer again this is meant for a whole different variety of printers we're doing it for the enter five plus to find that so now we're going to go down to 166 so this is the you know the Z max which is 400 and this is also why I have this boards that depth file open because we're going to relate to that after I'm we're done through them part of this so well you just remember that 400 for the Z so we're at 166 now we're going to 169 we got to make sure that this is true it was false before now we're gonna go to 194 and we're going to comment that this is a regular SiC extruder stocks er 10 this is as you see there's multiple ones that you can choose so and now we're gonna go to two one two we're going to define the cruelty mk8 this is for the mark my voice or using crowd e thermistor pretty much self-explanatory two to seven is next we're going to define this is the stock heat that pretty crowd e again it's pretty easy you could use this for other manufacturers or other printers so now we're going to go to the line two three eight this we're going to find Auto bed leveling we're gonna go up to two four six and two four seven these have to be defined both you cannot just say what one or the other and they both have to be a defined this is a version 33.1 BL touch and we're also going to define that the version here so again you have to make sure that both of them are done in two six four this is we're going to make sure that this is set to 24-hour probe edge because we are it as it says here are using holding clips yes we are la make sure that it has a safe mount distance that when it's probing good thing to have people now we're going down to two seven eight okay and this is saying that this is a regional mount for it reality bill touch so it knows what the offsets are for it so we're going to comment that I'm going to find that and now we're going to go to two nine zero we're going to do advanced pause and two nine one and two nine two so we're gonna do these and this is the filament path this is going from the exterior to the hot end I just put two hundred I'll define it later well you basically why I measure how many millimeters it goes from there and extruder to your hot end so here at two hundred was a good guess we're now so now we're going to also we have a filament run-out sensor we're going to define that to 95 we're gonna go to four three next and this is where we define our motherboard okay this is we click on this you can see it actually pulls some information because I and this is all spelled out correctly and pulling it right here so if we go to our boards definition it's in here so if we type in turbo and there it is other boards so you're gonna copy this this line right here under the board's definition and you got paste it right here and then when you know that you have it correct see if I click it off and I hover over this it actually gives some information so that's how you know it's correct so we were on 431 now we're going to go to 435 of course I gotta name my printer tripod garage yeah we're going to go to 1977 alright so this is a we want make sure that this is true from false so line 977 define a Zemon probe we're gonna make sure that's true and we're gonna go to 1029 and this is a weird weird one let me explain here so during my testing I've compiled this offer I can't tell you how many different times well it sometimes I would hit home and along the x-axis it would not hit the limit switch and it will stop at some point before well it you know it after a couple hours of research I found out that there might be some noise generated and this was not defined at the time and it basically says this approach is some probes and there's a noise so like it circumvents that I have tried this printer to get to fail at I can tell you how many times I tried and it works now so you if you see that it fails on the end stops before hits then stops and and I'll post the error message right here if you get this error message that's when you need to define this I I would just define this anyways so alright so we're at 10:29 we're going to go to 1172 next alright so this is the z pro pin so this is your BL touch so remember this p 0 1 0 because we are going to this is actually in the pins file so you could actually for your pins for defiance on your board we're going to actually circumvent to that in a little bit but you want to make sure that this is p 0 1 0 and we're going to go to 1189 and we're going to find this is 0.2 how are you go to 14 26 and 27 so that's a your bed size as we all know the the bed size is 350 by 350 but that's not the actual size of it but that's what you would want to define so we're going to come back to this too in a little bit later now we're going to go down to 1480 and make sure that we define the filament brown sensor all right that was a big one now we're going to move to a simpler file the configuration a advanced first we're going to go to line 35 and we're going to set that to zero point two two and now we're just roll all the way down to eighteen twenty-eight yes that is how far we have to go for the next connect file now you could choose not to enable this but on the touchscreen when I went to that there was the scoring message saying that was I enabled I enabled it just to get rid of it so you know certain commands they you know it says enter the serial receiver buffer so they can't be blocked so I guess that's needed maybe someone could tell me what this is for for for these codes for the m10 a to M 1 1 2 and M for 1 0 so if you comment below that'd be great so this is now enabled so apparently it was important enough so because I didn't know that it was needed all right so next we're going to go and to the pins file alright so remember I said that p 0 1 0 is for to be L touch now this is where it comes interesting I went and I did a test and I kept on getting an error message when the probe the probe wasn't the point so why did was i after hours of researching I decided I'm gonna reach out to the Facebook group so this is what I did so I reached out to Facebook on there k 3d labs support group I mentioned the problem that I'm having I displayed and you know I said hey I'm doing to an under-five plus and I'm using the you know 1.4 turbo with the TFT 3.5 display and I'm getting the following error even when I connect through pronterface of m99 so with all this here it came some troubleshooting 18 of them so as we're going through here they were saying okay well what's your baud rate you know that's correct so and you know I as I said I was getting that error and I'm getting it here's a screenshot of it onto display as well so they wanted me to verify that my connections were sound actually here's the video of it there's the boot screen or when you have it loaded so we're gonna motion it we're gonna go to hit Auto home goes over and nothing happens and just a stopped so the touchscreen display as she shows more so this is when Thomas Anderson comes into a rescue so and he says hey you know what this is always a there's a problem something needs to be changed so this is when he asked me to verify that I have everything correct so yes I have these two wires are reversed from corral D so you I took the pins out the wires out and put them in the correct locations so Thomas then decides to PM me privately and we go through some steps this is when we go to the pins you know B TT sk r version one point underscore four or one version one underscore four so right now if we look for p0 underscore 1-0 you'll see that's defined here my 91 red p1 underscore two seven and I changed it to p0 underscore one zero / thomas anderson's advice so now we are defining this as actually the pin for the BL touch okay so then I noticed that after this was all working so now that guy read that error and my printer was the the X&Y we're flying off to the wrong spot so this is when I was told that the printer that deaf file takes control over other parts so we go to plus okay so remember in the configuration th we configured lines 14 26 and 27 as 350 as a bed size well you could put in all day long it won't matter because this is the file that over rights at all four because we defined it as the Ender five plus so and we need to change these two lines and the printers dot def file to 358 and 358 and make sure the Z is set at 400 and then that's it so I really wanted to thank Thomas Anderson for saving my life on that one because I was like this was totally new to me especially this and how this all worked and he explained it nice and thoroughly so good shout out to him for this so now we're done so as you see how I ran this ever and this so many times and I've had success so what I want to do is you could either go and hook this up to your you know with USB make sure the SD cards in switch the pen around to USB mode and send it this way okay I will do it upload right to the board and the next time you power cycle the printer it will upload the file or you can do a which I'm going to do is a platform IO build you click on that and that's going to save the file locally to the machine and then you you copy that file to your your your SD card make sure there's no files on there you plug it in it's all done and that's it so yeah I know it took a while but I really appreciate you hanging in there and but for anyone that doesn't want to do all this I'll post it at my github where you can just download the firmware and copy to your card now a disclaimer here is that I hold no responsibility of things don't work you know disapprove of that it did work on my machine so if you do not follow the steps here or something happens with the firmware or something I am NOT responsible for this so all right so let's go ahead and flash the printer with this file and then we'll move on to flashing the display say that you want to update the printer by SD card II don't want to hook it up to the speed well you're gonna need to move the jumper back over to the off of USB and back to the power and then you're going to dive back into your computer and you're gonna look for the firmware file so let's go ahead and do that now we're gonna dive into Maryland cheetah and then Marlin 2.0 X and then we I go to dot pio and then build and then the board type which is a 1769 and there she is the firmware dot did you and then look for your SD card and we're gonna just copy the firmware dot bin folder file over and there you go so you go ahead and you plug this in to your printer yeah and then the next time that powers up it's going to update the firmware automatically pretty easy it's just finding that file as you see it's a pretty long string up here so as soon as you know where it's at it's not a big deal before we seal up the printer we want to make sure that we move the you know the jumper back off from usb it back to VDD so it's running off the printer power I'm just running some tests right now I'm making sure that the probing is working so for the auto bed leveling the 16 points doing this with the basic marlin display and so far everything's to be working just fine so now I'm also going to do some test print and see how it's been she is going to come out so far everything's looking pretty good and I'm also printing out to display brackets so to speak we're gonna do this play that came out pretty nicely as well no we're gonna just tidy up the wires this this ribbing cable or a push pin cable is but nothing but nemesis during this whole build process so I'm going to just glue it down unfortunately Amazon Prime doesn't work really much anymore I didn't feel like waiting a couple weeks to get this done and since we already decided to use a hot glue I'm gonna do the same darn thing with this I'm just going down these pins here and I'm gonna do the same thing for the BL touch what's happened talk about stringing issues so you think that you have string issues on some of your prints try using a hot glue gun once in a while huh it just gets everywhere but you know what now they're gonna be nice and secure and I don't have to worry about them falling out again because Antonia that cable just fell out all the time it's so loose now I'm just gonna tie wrap in organise these wires and we'll proceed on to the next steps after this [Music] yeah I'm not a fan of this the faceplate adapter it's very flimsy and lots of and that's a lot of bleeding light in around the edges so I found a different one on Thingiverse saying I print that out a little bit later but meanwhile I'm gonna plug this in screw it down and form fit it well this power switch is actually in the way for my extension for the SD card so I'm making it cardboard template tracing it around and gonna relocate it yes this means doing some more cutting and I'm gonna cut out the peasant use as a template I'm gonna move the power switch right over here okay go ahead and trace it and with a screwdriver and now I'm gonna take my good old Dremel out and cut me a hole of course I used some of the plastic you know stack bag is a little bit of a protection here and then of course I got a blow out all the dust again didn't know I was going to need to relocate the switch [Music] Yeah right here I have some tape that's actually used for cell phones meant for the display it's very - and very strong in what prep the area first before you fix it and of course that this adapter has a nice little loop in the ribbon cable but we'll have to tie wrapped up and tuck it to its side but now we're going to focus on the display adapter I found a better file on Thingiverse and you can see how much more stout it is this was actually printed with the printer right now it's configuration came out pretty darn good so we're gonna use this and it looks like there won't be any bleeding white so let's go ahead and take this apart and put the new one in well it looks like I need a little bit more tweaking potentiometer is rubbing against the metal there and we don't want that to happen so we're gonna take our another another triple time here we're going to take a little sanding wheel here and carve out a little notch so that potentiometer could actually fit there without rubbing anymore and yeah I know yeah well it is what it is guys just take a dremel to the whole thing wait Fitz now that's all that matters let's finish wiring this thing up [Music] one emphasize one more time about the green ground cable that's now been relocated right there but if you take a look the only thing that's original that's left here is the breakout board and wiring otherwise everything else has been replaced on the inside [Music] last thing to do is plug in the last fan for the cover we plug this in and let's seal her up they're all back together again [Music] [Music] [Music] and now you can see tripods garage ready literally just gonna scroll through this really fast all the you know option it's through the click wheel so you guys can see all the functionality is there [Music] so let's update the firmware on our new touchscreen here I'm at big trees websites here we're gonna find LCDs screens here and we're going to click on our big tree tech TFT 35 version 3.0 clip in there so actually this is such a easy site to navigate firmer is right here we're gonna click on that we got back up to the root here and we're gonna scroll down this tells you exactly what to do to upload the firmware it looks like we have two modes we have the classic and we got the unified menu I really do this unified many I like all the colors and everything like the status screen tells you a little bit more to me I like I like busy yeah I like two old cars where he had a lot of buttons for the stereo so the busier the better just like the stereo on my garage oh I love all the lights so I think we're definitely go with that unifight what do we need to do to upload it so you download the files and it seems pretty darn easy look at this so you just match up the two that you need so we have two t of t 35 and folder and we're gonna use at the T of T 35 bit copy it to a blank SD card you're going to then put it on your printer turn it on and it should update so let's give it a try here first we're going to go with the classical classic music bright classic menu see what that looks like but I want to definitely go with this but we're gonna give them both to try and see what they look like so we're gonna go ahead and go back up we're gonna go ahead and click download and we're gonna uncompress the file and see what looks like here's our own compressed folder and go in here okay this looks like it's the classic and yeah this is the unified menu that's what I really want to do but we're gonna go ahead and do this one first we're gonna do the classic and here's our two files we're gonna need so I'm gonna copy the T of T 35 and then we're gonna copy this T of T 35 this is was a blank SD card once these are finished copying over we're gonna go to the printer plug it in turn it on and watch the magic happen pick that card that we just put the files on and we're gonna plug it on to the side where the display is the ribbon cable that's coming out of display and we're gonna put that in there and this card slot is actually used for two things it's going to be to update the firmware so there's software on your display and it's also going to be your card reader for your files to print from so what we're going to do now is wait 2 portal files to load and we'll go ahead and see what it looks like [Music] now to get to the touchscreen you hold down the click wheel for three seconds and you select the touchscreen option and yeah I mean the menus are there and you know unfortunately I hit dawdle best level and it's gonna level to bed and I really can't do much more navigation but you get the gist of it many buttons are there and you could just navigate away yeah you could also go into G code and enter your own G code if you want or some other options menus but yeah everything is up to date now so I'm yeah like I said I'm not a fan of the classic so we're gonna upload the next one unified menu next okay hit submit I really didn't give it much effort for other classic display really wanting unified uh display instead so but this still applies for both for editing the logos we're gonna do what's called the switch logo and the blue tip logo and switch logos this one it's gonna be a smaller one this is when you switch the modes on the display so I got also then open up my logo and in conjunction and so I could replace both so I'm gonna try to do this as fast as possible here so we're gonna look at the size of this and we're going for height and it's 95 pixels whopping 7 95 pixels so we're gonna change that on my logo for the height to keep it uniformed so be 95 here as well once we change this it's going to get really small on this and we're gonna need to increase the size so it's kind of workable so let's go ahead and zoom back in on this and see our nice pixelated masterpiece now we're gonna switch back to our the big tree logo and we're gonna erase everything I'm sure there's a better process but we're just gonna erase it and then we're gonna switch back to my logo and we're gonna go ahead and select the whole image and we're going to copy it and then we're going to paste it back into a big tree in logo where it was so once we pasted it in it would be nice and centered as soon as we get to go there we go and there we go now we're going to zoom in on it so it's workable and we're gonna give it some nice big lettering but remember we're working at a small footprint here so big lettering is small lettering if you kind of get why me so we're gonna do this in red at the bottom it's gonna look big but and remember to pixel size is pretty small but yes we're gonna do this on tripods garage and we're gonna save it over its original file and then we're going to continue on to the boot low low well now we're gonna do the same thing to the logo I actually this is a bigger logo this is the one that goes for when you turn on the printer it's the big one splash screen that comes up so it takes up the whole screen and we're gonna open up big treat X logo and we're gonna do mine as well so this one definitely has a higher height so we're gonna verify that right now and it should be yep 320 height so we're gonna do the same thing to mine like we did the last time we're gonna go back to my logo and we're going to change the size height and maintain aspect ratio to 320 now we're gonna go I'm gonna keep the same type of format that they have so I'm gonna have a red logo you gotta dump some nice red paint and fill me in and then we're gonna go back to their logo and we're going to just erase everything I'm sure there's a faster better process but this is the only dirty way that I can do it and quickly so but now we're going to fill this up with black we're going to then copy my logo again and we're going to paste this into the black and it's gonna be nice and centered looks perfect to me now we're gonna do some white lettering starting off small and then we're going to keep on resizing it and centering it until I get to where I on it that looks good let me just mess around with a little bit see if I get more centered and yeah that seems about it so what we're going to do is we're going to then save this file we're gonna overwrite it in this spot and we're gonna just confirm that everything looks good we see both logos in there with the corrective file names because you want to make sure they have the same file names now we're going to take those two files so T of T 3 and a big tree Tech 3.5 bin file and move them over and then we're going to put them into our SD card reader for our display and do a nice little update and see what happens [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] just going to do a quick tour of the unified menu display let's fast forward this a little bit [Music] let's go ahead and knock out some test prints to compare the before and the after [Music] [Music] [Music] so let's take a look at the before print of a bench II that I printed outside of the enclosure I'm gonna make everything fair so yeah I mean this is uh pretty darn good it's light stringing issues and not that bad and you know bottom looks pretty darn good too I mean considering that you know my garage and everything and get the Z seam right here we're gonna ignore that but yeah I mean all the overhangs look good I mean that's a to me I don't know about you guys but it's a pretty solid looking Vinci so all right let's put that one off to the side we're going now look at the bench II that was printed after it again it's hard hard to tell maybe a little bit better but maybe I'm speed you know winding it too but again some little stringing issues let's take a look at that Z scene I'm still there same this x equals e scene so I didn't make any changes to Keira my printed DS so yeah be hard-pressed to tell that I think maybe the layers look a little bit better but again that could be you know fine-tuning of the bed and everything and look at the bottom it's a lot nicer to so climate could have had a change of it so I'll say I'm going to call this a draw so next we're gonna do the calibration cubes so this is the before cube yeah little bit of separation down there but I would say overall you're looking pretty darn good for a calibration cube so now it's a zero these out here and taking measurements here start off right here you turn here we go I make it fair and it's where it was before the last ooh that's pretty bad so alright so only one mozi was a little bit off so let's go ahead and go with the new one new and improved right ah pretty darn nice I this applied to best calibration cube ever printed literally I've had this printer since October I'm sure its erode out all right let's give it just again here all right a little bit so calibration cubes are pretty close but honestly the the winner is simply this one but again it could be conditions so but so far it's looking like a really good upgrade now this is the fan noise that some people are not too talking about so when this is the meanwhile power supply ramping up so that's the fan that you hear right now so you just want to record this while the machine is on it's not printing right now but it's on and so I did another print it's actually a something I needed for a long time I have plenty of memory sticks and and SD and mini courage so I wanted to print something little long and you know what this came out I am used to having some really bad warping issues and this so you see some ghosting over here there you'll feel that there is because there's a step up right here so you're gonna see these lines here but honestly I really think this came out very well so you do see you know you be the judge you let me know how did this piece turn out uh I think it came out really good there were this wife did enter the garage and go out of the garage so there was a little bit of lift on that corner so garbage day yep last minute run out I told her not to go through the garage but you know it happens so these are the two this is a year she start well with this one this was their original face mount for the for the display that I didn't wind up using and I printed this it's one of my tests and these lines are just guys I don't know for a stock nozzle stock cooling I really don't know if you could get any better again let me know it's it's pretty darn good and this is the one I want up using you can see it's a lot more spout I actually had to make this on a raft I'm a fan of rafts most of you are not too but I tried so many times to get this to print without one and I had to use a raft but it's again these lines are just really nice and straight so well I would say honestly it's it's kind of a draw I mean what do you think ducky you know you gotta stay in the middle you know the conditions wise you know ambient temperatures in the garage you know the this is the again the best cube ever printed I think it looks great so all right let's get back to it can you believe it we're at the end of the video this is my last shot of the video you made it wake up hello wake up yes we're there so as you see I kind of move the duck yeah and he's machine whatever is pointing more towards the upgraded prints here so I think it's just feels right because you know honestly there was not much of a difference between the prints it's a the ambient temperature in the garage wasn't that far off between the two and plus I I printed all of these parts and even the bench II and the cube when the machine was half torn apart still so yes it's it's hit or miss you comment below which you think is better so I am still leaning towards the upgraded parts prints so because I didn't change anything on the top so but so I know you're asking yourself for asking me so was this worth it wet earn it and negatives and the positives load end results well since news is focused on negativity first we're gonna go through the negatives or the not-so-great things so and they're not that many well let's go with the negative of this printer first what was so gleaming negative besides the firmware that you had to update on certain rate when it was came out the first time for it to be all touch to me when I did my video it was that film at run out sensor when that thing got triggered this bed turns all up yeah what a marvelous idea besides the econo-mode but yes why have a darn filament run out sensor when the bed turns off I mean we're all waiting for the source code to be released on this and that could possibly enable that or just replacing the display with a regular marlin display but I just can't believe it so this is what the results are with doing a film it run out of tests now we're testing the film it run out so here's a touch screen and I cut the list I cut the filament and as you can see is printing a ghost nothing to do here now we're gonna switch it to Tomorrowland mode screen and I cut the filament and look it is saying hey we need to change some filament so I'm going to change to filament and no look what happens we resume printing perfect just the way it should be so there you have it yeah so that's now a battle of the displays so you had the classic Marlin display that did it absolutely perfect and he had the touchscreen displays I said I'm just gonna keep on running with it Hey printed nothing it ran out and just kept on printing goes to printing so yes now let's keep on going with the Battle of just the displays it's gonna be a movie I'm sure so the Z offset I compared to the Z offset on here in the Marlin display you got bounced around the back and forth a little bit but this one wound up being a negative a 2.7 I like using the touchscreen so I went to the touchscreen and I just so happen to click on the Z offset it reads 0 do not touch it it that actually translates over between the two interfaces ok but if you're gonna configure is the offset for first time it's a lot easier to do it in the touchscreen mode then it does and the Marlin mode all you do is move it up and down and that's it you don't need to jump around you know toggle back and forth between two things and getting tuned it so now here's a battle of the same UI so here's the so you got the two modes you got the classic and the other mode for the display ok there's actually more buttons outside the classic one believe it or not it just works better so and there's a lot more functionality there why I don't know why are their icons missing there's literally like a dozen plus icons are missing that you can't do so definitely I would go more with the enhanced mode or whatever it's called and not only the classic one alone that's my recommendation so and here's the last so-called negative and it probably is for most people it's cutting you know the control box not everyone's gonna want to do it I am willing to carve up anything practically it's a risk and it wasn't my finest craftsmanship but know what getting able to get to that SD card slot and the USB is pretty damn important so you always run you know make your own mount run the you know extensions out the back or something but you really want to be able to get to it and getting to this box it's not the easiest so there's other printers that are harder but this isn't pretty hard to get to so now positives really I really don't think I need to go through it but I'm going to so you got an 8-bit cree LED board us at fifty five ish dollars that sold out a lot and you get a big tree tech with you know this include this you know SD extension at ath dollars for three items you get actually four because i mean three we're gonna say for it so you get the sk r 1.4 turbo 120 mayor's at now 32-bit you get a silent drivers i did the two to 0/8 but you could change them wherever you want and whenever you want to you could upgrade them unlike the reality board that sat around and missing one so you get five of them in the kit and you get a dual mode display mode display for ath dollars with SD extension honestly it's kind of no-brainer yeah I mean and plus you can do our chibi lighting out love it if I can interface it with this because I can just walk in and like when teenie know it turns your head like well that's pretty darn cool so when it reached temperature so I mean it's and silent yeah I it's to me and now you have a video out there that you know someone's already done all the work and now you can do it yourself I got the github out there links below the download the you could just download there's just a firmware file so we're dining and go now is it gonna be perfect my file absolutely not there's go he's gonna be someone that does a better video than me and you know maybe mine is worse than another person I just didn't know of anyone that has done this upgrade I'm sure there's gonna be one next week or next month that's gonna supersede mine and that's fine because the way I look at YouTube is people are you're on it's for entertainment and learning and getting a giggle okay right so I'm an average one-legged dude putting on content you know I do this is my garage I do things I have just actually you know my videos calculus ability you know I I like to tinker this is me my my channel isn't just a 3d parent Channel this is part of my workflow now that the filaments the right now sensor works now it's gonna be a lot part a lot more part of my workflow so I really appreciate you tuning in I know maybe you'll learn something maybe I can learn something back from your feedback but if you could please hit that subscribe button for me it wouldn't make a huge deal to me it means that you enjoying the content and you would really like to see more of it so you know that's all I got for you I really appreciate you tuning in have a great evening night weekend and you know what stay safe out there okay stay inside let's get this over with okay catching the next time I try pots garage [Music] you

Channel: Tripods Garage

Views: 73,589

Keywords: 3D Printer, Noob, Unboxing, Ender 5 Plus, Ender 5+, E5+, Assembly, ADA, One Leg, Disability, Cancer, Harbor Freight workbench, dji, osmo, gimbal, wiring, diy, bigtreetech, skr1.4 turbo, BTT SKR V1.4 & SKR V1.4, 32-Bit Control Board, BIGTREETECH TFT35 V3.0 Display- Two Working Modes, BIGTREETECH TFT35 V3.0, TMC2208, TMC2208 V3.0, creality, CR-10, Creality Ender 5 Plus, Ender 5 Plus Ultimate Upgrade, creality silent board, silent board

Id: -Y18Rz8LlSY

Length: 76min 50sec (4610 seconds)

Published: Tue Apr 07 2020